Cosmetic or dermatological compositions with a cushioning effect exhibiting moderate to low pilling

Abstract

Carboxymethylated starch is a gelling or thickening agent used to create cosmetic or dermatological compositions with a cushioning effect. However, this starch has the drawback of forming lint upon application to the skin and / or after drying. This application proposes a solution to reduce lint formation through the combination of an oil and a selected surfactant.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic or dermatological compositions with a cushioning effect exhibiting moderate to low pilling. Technical field

[0001] The invention relates to the field of cosmetic or dermatological formulations for topical application, comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase, said aqueous phase being gelled by a carboxyalkylated starch. Previous technique

[0002] The cushioning effect developed by carboxyalkylated starches, in particular carboxy-methylated starches, in aqueous gels or oil-in-water emulsions, is known, as presented in the applicant's FR application. Technical problem

[0003] When used as thickening or gelling agents in aqueous gels or emulsions, particularly oil-in-water emulsions, carboxymethyl starch advantageously produces a cosmetic or dermatological composition that gives a so-called "cushioning effect" when applied to the skin. Unfortunately, carboxymethyl starch can also cause a phenomenon known as "pilling," which consists of the formation of "fuzz" or "pills" on the skin, preventing a smooth and pleasant application, or even causing a very unpleasant sensation.

[0004] This pilling can occur both during the application of said compositions to the skin, i.e., when spreading them on the skin using the fingers of the hand, and also after application, when the composition has penetrated the skin and the skin is subjected to friction, either skin against skin or skin against clothing. In both cases, pilling must be minimized so that no residue remains on the skin.

[0005] The present application proposes a solution for reducing lint during topical application or after drying, or during topical application and after drying, of a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a carboxyalkylated starch, in particular carboxymethylated, while maintaining a significant and pleasant cushioning effect. Summary of the invention

[0006] A first object of the present application is a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, at least one carboxyalkylated starch or a carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch, and at least one nonionic or cationic surfactant, and in which the ratio of the quantity of said oily phase to the quantity of said non-ionic surfactant is within the range of 0.3 to 7.

[0007] This composition may be an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, an aqueous or oily gel, or an aqueous or oily isotrope.

[0008] The mass percentage of carboxyalkylated starch in said composition may be greater than or equal to 0.1%, or 0.25%, or 0.5%, or 1%, or 2%, or 3%, or 4%, or 5%, or 6%, or 7%, or 8%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0009] The mass percentage in the oil phase in said composition may be less than or equal to 15%, or 7%, or 6%, or 5%.

[0010] The mass percentage of said non-ionic surfactant in relation to the total weight of said composition may be greater than or equal to 1%, or 1.5%, or 2%, or 2.5%, or 3%, or 3.5%, or 5%, or 7%.

[0011] The carboxyalkyl starch can be selected from carboxyethyl starches, carboxymethyl starches, carboxypropyl starches, carboxybutyl starches, or in which the carboxyalkyl starch is a carboxymethyl starch.

[0012] The non-ionic surfactant can be chosen from sorbitan esters, fatty acid polyglyceryls, citric acid diesters, or mixtures thereof.

[0013] The oily phase may include at least one oil chosen from oils of natural origin, in particular vegetable oils, and mineral oils, silicones, preferably the oily phase consists of at least one oil of natural origin, in particular vegetable oil.

[0014] The oily phase may comprise at least 50% by weight of a vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, preferably at least 75%, preferably at least 90%, and all preferably consists of a vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids.

[0015] The vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids may comprise between 15 and 85% by weight of monounsaturated fatty acids. Preferably, the vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids comprises: - less than 25% by weight in saturated fatty acids, - and / or less than 70% by weight in polyunsaturated fatty acids.

[0016] The oily phase may comprise less than 50% by weight of vegetable oil, or less than 40%, or less than 30%, or less than 20%, or less than 10%, or less than 5%, or less than 1%, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0017] The cosmetic or dermatological composition may be a gel-cream comprising a carboxyalkylated starch, a vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, and a non-ionic surfactant as a gelling system for said composition.

[0018] The cosmetic or dermatological composition may also include at least a cosmetic ingredient chosen from detergent surfactants, cationic polymers, pigments, colorants, mother-of-pearls, and silicas.

[0019] It can be in the form of a cream, a gel or a cream-gel. It can be used as a shower gel, cleansing gel, shampoo, or hair conditioner.

[0020] Another subject of this application is an aqueous or hydroalcoholic cream gel, comprising: - at least one carboxyalkylated starch, preferably carboxymethylated, - at least one oil, preferably macadamia oil - and at least one non-ionic surfactant, in which the ratio of the quantity of said oil to the quantity of said surfactant is in the range of 0.3 to 7. Brief description of the drawings

[0021] Other features, details and advantages of the invention will become apparent from reading the detailed description below, and from analyzing the accompanying figures below, in which:

[0022] [Fig.1] shows the sensory evaluation limits for the criterion "fluffying on application".

[0023] [Fig.2] shows the sensory evaluation limits for the criterion "fluffying after "drying". Detailed description

[0024] Cosmetic or dermatological composition

[0025] The cosmetic or dermatological composition that is the subject of this application may be a dispersion of an oily phase in an aqueous phase, said dispersion being stabilized by at least one nonionic or cationic surfactant, and may be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, an oil-in-water microemulsion, an oil-in-water nanoemulsion, or an aqueous isotrope. In one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is an aqueous isotrope.

[0026] The cosmetic or dermatological composition may also be a dispersion of an aqueous phase in an oily phase, said dispersion being stabilized by at least one non-ionic surfactant, and may be in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, a water-in-oil microemulsion, a water-in-oil nanoemulsion, or an oily isotrope.

[0027] According to the subject matter of this application, the ratio of the mass of the oily phase to the mass of the non-ionic surfactant is within a range of 0.3 to 7, or 0.5 to 6, or 0.75 to 5, or 1 to 4, or 1.25 to 3, or 1.5 to 2.5, or is equal to 2.

[0028] When the cosmetic or dermatological composition is a dispersion of a In an oily phase within an aqueous phase, the oily phase represents from 0.5% to 65% by weight, and the aqueous phase represents from 25% to 99.5% by weight, these percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of said composition. According to one embodiment, when the cosmetic or dermatological composition is an aqueous isotrope, the oily phase represents from 0.5% to 15% by weight, or from 0.5% to 7% by weight, or from 0.5% to 6% by weight, or from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition; and the aqueous phase represents from 75% to 99.5% by weight, or from 83% to 99.5% by weight, or from 84% to 99.5% by weight, or from 85% to 99.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0029] When the cosmetic or dermatological composition is an aqueous isotrope, it may be in the form of a gel or a gel-cream. When it is an oil-in-water emulsion, it may be in the form of a fluid or thick cream. According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition that is the subject of this application is a gel or a gel-cream, preferably a gel-cream.

[0030] Physiologically acceptable environment

[0031] By “physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium compatible with keratinous materials and in particular skin, lips, scalp, eyelashes, eyes and / or hair.

[0032] Aqueous phase

[0033] The aqueous phase useful for the cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of this application comprises water, demineralized or potable, and at least one carboxyalkylated starch, or a carboxyalkylated and pregelatinized starch.

[0034] The mass percentage of pregelatinized and carboxyalkylated starch, relative to the total weight of said composition, is greater than or equal to 0.1%, or 0.25%, or 0.5%, or 1%, or 2%, or 3%, or 4%, or 5%, or 6%, or 7%. Furthermore, the mass percentage of pregelatinized and carboxyalkylated starch, relative to the total weight of said composition, is less than or equal to 20%, or 18%, or 16%, or 14%, or 12%, or 10%, or 8%. In the case where several pregelatinized and carboxyalkylated starches are present, the mass percentage of pregelatinized starch is the sum of the mass percentages of all the pregelatinized and carboxyalkylated starches present.

[0035] Carboxyalkylated starch

[0036] The starch used in the cosmetic or dermatological composition that is the subject of this application is a carboxyalkylated starch, or a carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch. This starch acts as a gelling agent for the aqueous phase. It also acts as a sensory agent with a cushioning effect.

[0037] The starch may be corn starch, potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, pea starch, oat starch, lentil starch, broad bean starch, broad bean starch, chickpea starch, cassava starch, or combinations thereof.

[0038] By "carboxyalkylated," the applicant means a starch that has been chemically modified by at least one carboxyalkylation. "Carboxyalkylation" for the purposes of this invention includes, but is not limited to, any chemical modification capable of replacing all or part of the O-H hydroxyl groups of the starch with O-(CH2)n-COOH, O-(CH2)n-COOX, O-CH-COOH-(CH2)m-COOH, or O-CH-COOH-(CH2)m-COOX groups, in which: - n is equal to zero (cyanidation reaction) or greater, preferably between 1 (carboxymethylation reaction) and 4 (carboxybutylation reaction) and all preferably equal to 1 (carboxymethylation) or 2 (carboxyethylation or cyanoethylation reaction) - m is greater than zero and in particular equal to 1 (carboxyalkylation by the use of chloromalonic acid for example), - X is a cation, preferably monovalent, chosen in particular from the group including sodium, potassium and lithium, especially sodium and potassium, with sodium generally being preferred.

[0039] According to one embodiment, the carboxyalkylated starch is selected from carboxymethylated, carboxyethylated, carboxypropylated starches, or a mixture thereof. The carboxyalkylated starch useful to the invention may also have been modified by at least two chemical carboalkylation modifications, preferably selected from carboxymethylation, carboxyethylation, and carboxypropylation.

[0040] Particularly advantageously, carboxyalkylation consists of a carboxymethylation reaction using monochloroacetic acid or one of its salts, in particular sodium monochloroacetate.

[0041] According to one embodiment, the carboxyalkylated starch is also a pre-gelatinized starch. It can then be chosen from carboxymethylated and pre-gelatinized starches, carboxyethylated and pre-gelatinized starches, carboxypropylated and pre-gelatinized starches, or mixtures thereof.

[0042] Examples of carboxymethylated starches useful to the invention are Beauté by Roquette® ST 118 marketed by Roquette Frères, or Vivastar® or Explotab® from JRS Pharma.

[0043] Carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch

[0044] According to one embodiment, the carboxyalkyl starch useful for the purpose of this application is a carboxyalkyl and crosslinked starch. The carboxyalkyl starch may be crosslinked by a crosslinking agent selected from polyfunctional acids, polyacid anhydrides, or polyfunctional basic organic molecules, as well as their metal salts.

[0045] Polyfunctional acids that have crosslinked carboxyalkylated starch can be polycarboxylic acids, such as citric acid, or polyphosphoric acids, such as triphosphoric acid. Polyacid anhydrides that have crosslinked carboxyalkylated starch can be mixed polyacid anhydrides, such as mixed adipic-acetic anhydride. Polyfunctional basic organic molecules that have crosslinked carboxyalkylated starch can be polyphosphates. Their metal salts can be sodium, manganese, calcium, iron, copper, or zinc salts. A preferred variant of the crosslinking agent is sodium salts of polyacids, such as sodium trimetaphosphate or sodium tripolyphosphate.Other crosslinking agents that have crosslinked carboxyalkylated starch may include polyfunctional aldehydes, such as glyoxal; halogenated epoxides, such as epichlorohydrin; aliphatic or aromatic diisocyanates, whose alkyl chain has fewer than 8 carbon atoms, such as hexamethylene diisocyanate; and oxohalides, such as phosphorus oxychloride.

[0046] Non-ionic surfactant

[0047] The nonionic surfactant useful in the composition described in this application performs the function of a solubilizing or emulsifying surfactant of the oil phase in the aqueous phase. It has an HLB greater than or equal to 8, 9, 10, 11, or 12. It may be selected from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated, or polyglycerolated alcohols, or from sorbitan esters, fatty acid polyglyceryls, citric acid diesters, or mixtures thereof. Thus, it may be selected from:

[0048] - alcohols, diols, alpha-diols and alkyl(Cl-C2O)phenols, being poly ethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and in which the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups can range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups can range from 2 to 30,

[0049] - alcohols, diols, alpha-diols and alkyl(Cl-C2O)phenols comprising at less a fatty chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, especially among alcohols comprising at least one alkyl chain in C8 to C40, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains,

[0050] - ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols,

[0051] - polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 2 to 30 oxide units of ethylene, polyglycerol fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4,

[0052] - ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably having 2 to 40 motifs ethylene oxide,

[0053] - fatty acid esters of sucrose,

[0054] - polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters, preferably polyoxyethylated, having 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils;

[0055] - N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives,

[0056] - amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or oxides of N-(C10-C14 acyl)-aminopropylmorpholine;

[0057] - and their mixtures.

[0058] According to one embodiment, the nonionic surfactant useful in the cosmetic or dermatological composition that is the subject of this application is a mixture comprising, preferably consisting of, a sorbitan ester, a polyglyceryl fatty acid, and a citric acid diester. A nonionic surfactant according to this embodiment is a mixture of sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, and dilauryl citrate, for example, that marketed under the reference "Tego® Care LTP" by Evonik Personal Care.

[0059] The nonionic surfactant can also be chosen from among the alkyl polyglycosides and designated by the acronym APG. These nonionic surfactants are well known in themselves. French patent FR 2 948 285 presents them in terms of structure and explains how to prepare them. They can be represented by the following general formula (I): Rl-O-(R2-O)p-(S)n,

[0060] in which: - S represents a reducing saccharide, which can comprise between 5 and 6 carbon atoms, - RI designates a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical comprising approximately 6 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl group comprises approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms, - R2 designates an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - n denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, - p denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10.

[0061] By reducing saccharide, we mean in formula (I), the saccharide derivatives which do not have in their structures a glycosidic bond established between an anomeric carbon and the oxygen of an acetal group as defined in the reference work: "Biochemistry", Daniel Voet / Judith G. Voet, p. 250, John Wyley & Sons, 1990. The oligomeric structure (S)n, can be in any form of isomerism, whether optical isomerism, geometric isomerism or positional isomerism; it can also represent a mixture of isomers.

[0062] In the definition of compounds of formula (I), S represents a reducing saccharide selected from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran or the tallose and more specifically a reducing saccharide chosen from glucose, xylose or arabinose.

[0063] A first preferred variant of alkyl polyglycosides according to the present invention are C12-C20 alkyl polyglycosides, that is to say compounds of formula (I) in which: - RI specifically designates a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical comprising approximately 12 to 20 carbon atoms - p takes a value from 0 to 3, and preferably equal to zero, - S designates glucose, fructose or galactose, and more preferably glucose.

[0064] Preferably, the alkyl polyglycoside surfactant is an alkyl polyglucoside surfactant, i.e., an alkyl polyglycoside surfactant where S is a glucose. The glucosidic linkages between the glucose units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Particularly preferred are alkyl C6 / C16-1,4-polyglucosides, alkyl C6 / C12-1,4-polyglucosides, and especially de-cylglucosides, dodecylglucosides, hetpoglucosides, caprylyl glucosides, capryl glucosides, and caprylyl / capryl glucosides. Another preferred variant of alkyl polyglucosides according to the present invention is the C12-C20 alkyl glucosides of the first preferred variant in which: - RI specifically refers to a linear alkyl radical containing approximately 12 to 20 carbon atoms - p is equal to zero, - S denotes glucose

[0065] Alkyl polyglucosides of formula (I) are notably available commercially under the names: Plantacare® 810 UP (RI is in C8-C10 / INCI: caprylyl / capryl glucoside), Plantacare® 818 UP (RI is in C8-C16 / INCI: Coco-glucoside), Plantacare® 2000 UP (RI is in C8-C16 / INCI: decyl glucoside) and Plantacare® 1200 UP (RI is in C12-C16 / INCI: lauryl glucoside) sold by BASF; Macanol® 810 (RI is in C8-C10), Macanol® 1200 (RI is in C12-C14), Macanol® 816 (mixture of RI is in C8, C10, Cl2, Cl4, Cl6) sold by FCI Technology; Neocare MF 0718 (RI is in C8-C10 / INCI: caprylyl / capryl glucoside), Neocare MF 0012 (RI is in C12-C14 / INCI: lauryl glucoside), Neocare MF 0002 (RI is in C8-C16 / INCI: decyl glucoside), Neocare MF 818 (RI is in C8-C16 / INCI: coco glucoside) sold by Neochem; Tego Care CG 90 (RI is in C14-C16 / INCI: cetearyl glucoside) sold by Evonik Healthcare;the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX® CG 110 (INCI: Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside) and ORAMIX™ NS 10 (INCI: Decyl Glucoside); the products sold by the company BASF under the name Glucopon® GD 70; (INCI: C10C12-Alkyl polyglucoside).

[0066] The nonionic surfactant of natural origin may be a mixture consisting of at least one alkyl polyglycoside and at least one fatty alcohol. In these mixtures, the alkyl polyglycosides may be selected from all the alkyl polyglycosides described above. Regarding fatty alcohols, linear or branched fatty alcohols with a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 8 to 24 will be found. Mixtures of alkyl glycosides and fatty alcohols useful to the invention and available commercially are those sold by the company SEPPIC: Montanov™ 14 (INCI: Myristyl Alcohol & Myristyl Glucoside), Montanov™ 202 (INCI: Arachidyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Glucoside), Montanov™ 68 (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside), Montanov™ 82 (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol and Coco-Glucoside), Montanov™ S (INCI: Coco-Glucoside & Coconut Alcohol), Montanov™ L (INCI: C14-22 Alcohols & C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside).

[0067] The non-ionic surfactant can further be chosen from alkyl polyglycosides, preferably alkyl polyglucosides, of HLB, according to the Griffin scale, greater than or equal to 10, or greater than or equal to 12, or greater than or equal to 14.

[0068] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant useful for the cosmetic or dermatological composition that is the subject of this application is a non-ionic surfactant that is liquid at room temperature.

[0069] When several non-ionic surfactants useful for the cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of this application are present, the resulting HLB of the HLB of all said non-ionic surfactants is within a range of 8 to 20, or 10 to 18, or 12 to 18, or 14 to 18.

[0070] The mass percentage of said nonionic surfactant relative to the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological composition is greater than or equal to 1%, or 1.5%, or 2%, or 2.5%, or 3%, or 3.5%, or 5%, or 7%. Furthermore, this percentage is less than or equal to 20%, or 18%, or 16%, or 14%, or 12%, or 10%, or 8%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0071] Cationic surfactant

[0072] The cationic surfactant useful for the cosmetic or dermatological composition which is the subject of this application may be chosen from among the C16 to C22 alkylquaterniums, for example cetrimonium chloride, or from among the estersquatemium or amidoamines.

[0073] Oily phase

[0074] The oily phase useful for the cosmetic or dermatological composition that is the subject of this application comprises at least one oil and / or at least one wax. The mass percentage of said oily phase in said cosmetic or dermatological composition is less than or equal to 75%, or 50%, or 40%, or 30%, or 20%.

[0075] The oily phase may also represent a mass percentage in said cosmetic or dermatological composition of less than or equal to 15%, or 7%, or 6%, or 5%. The cosmetic or dermatological composition may then be in the form of an aqueous isotrope.

[0076] The oil phase may comprise at least 50% by weight of a vegetable or natural oil, or at least 75%, or at least 90%, or at least 95%, or at least 99%. Preferably, the oil phase consists of a vegetable or natural oil, preferably a vegetable oil, and more preferably a vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids.

[0077] Oil

[0078] The oil included in, or constituting, the oily phase useful for the cosmetic or dermatological composition that is the subject of this application plays a key role in reducing pilling after drying. It can also simultaneously act as an emollient or moisturizing agent for the skin. It can be chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils, or preferably from polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably polar non-volatile vegetable or natural hydrocarbon oils.

[0079] The term “oil” means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013105 Pa).

[0080] Non-volatile oils

[0081] Non-volatile means oils with a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa (measured according to OECD standard 104 of 27 / 07 / 95). The non-volatile oil is selected from among non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, polar or non-polar, and mixtures thereof; and preferably from among non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular selected from ester oils, notably described in sections (2) to (4.9) below, vegetable hydrocarbon oils, notably described in section (4.10), alone or in mixtures.

[0082] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil and fluorinated oil. By "silicone oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0083] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0084] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are non-volatile hydrocarbon oils containing alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. Preferably, these oils are free of heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus. In this case, they contain at least one oxygen atom. In particular, they contain at least one alcohol functional group (making them "alcohol oils") or at least one ester functional group (making them "ester oils"). Ester oils can be hydroxylated.

[0085] The oil useful for the cosmetic or dermatological composition that is the subject of this application is chosen from among the following polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils:

[0086] (1) C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols: C10-C26 alcohols These alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention include linear or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic origin, or natural alcohols such as those derived from plant materials (coconut, palm kernel, palm, etc.) or animal materials (tallow, etc.). Of course, other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as ether alcohols or Guerbet alcohols. Finally, certain fractions of natural alcohols of varying lengths can also be used, such as coconut (C12 to C16) or tallow (C16 to C18), or compounds such as diols or cholesterol.As specific examples of preferred fatty alcohols, one may mention in particular lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is selected from octyldodecanol.

[0087] (2) monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of an acid mono- or polycarboxylic acid in the C2-C8 group and a C2-C8 alcohol. In particular: (2.1) monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, (2.2) the diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, diethyl-2-hexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate, (2.3) triesters of a C2-C8 tricarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyltributyl citrate, tributyl citrate.

[0088] (3) the esters of a C2-C8 polyol and one or more carboxylic acids in C2-C8: such as diesters of glycol and monoacids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, or triesters of glycol and monoacids such as triacetin.

[0089] (4) ester oils, in particular having between 17 and 70 carbon atoms: as Examples include mono-, di-, and tri-esters. Ester oils may be hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated. Non-volatile ester oils can be chosen, for example, from:

[0090] (4.1) monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in par particularly monoesters, of the formula R1-COO-R2 in which RI represents the remainder of a linear, branched, or aromatic fatty acid comprising 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly branched, containing 3 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 17, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, alcohol or polyalcohol decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate.Preferably, these are esters of the formula R1-COO-R2, where RI represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 3 to 40 carbon atoms, with RI and R2 being such that R1+R2 is greater than or equal to 17. More particularly, the ester comprises between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total. Preferred monoesters include isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl erucate, and / or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate.

[0091] (4.2) fatty acid monoesters, in particular of 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and including oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, and diols, such as propylene glycol monostearate.

[0092] (4.3) diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. One can notably use the diesters of dicarboxylic acid and monoalcohols, such as preferably dii-sostearyl malate; or the diesters of monocarboxylic acid and dialcohols, such as 1,3-propanediyl ester of octanoic acid (or propanediol dicaprylate), sold under the name DUB ZENOAT by the company Stéarinerie Dubois; or the diesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or polyglyceryl-2 dii-sostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the trade reference DERMOL DGDIS by the company Alzo);

[0093] (4.4) hydroxylated monoesters and diesters, preferably having a total number of carbon ranging from 18 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate;

[0094] (4.5) triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as tricarboxylic acid triesters, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol and carboxylic monoacid triesters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate;

[0095] (4.6) tetraesters and pentaesters, in particular having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tri-2-decyl tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2-tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate; and such as dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate pentaesters and a monocarboxylic acid, for example dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate, marketed under the name DUB VINYL by Stéarinerie Dubois,

[0096] (4.7) polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and / or trimer unsaturated and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. We can notably cite in this respect the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or the copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailucent ISDA;

[0097] (4.8) diol dimer esters and polyesters of mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such that diol dimer and fatty acid esters and diol dimer and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, in particular that can be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid in particular in C8 to C34, in particular in C12 to C22, in particular in C16 to C20, and more particularly in Cl8, such as dilinoleic diacid esters and dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®;

[0098] (4.9) polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one acid triglyceride(s) carboxylic(s) hydroxylated by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated such as castor oil of succinic acid and isostearic acid marketed under the reference Zenigloss by Zenitech;

[0099] (4.10) vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (liquids at room temperature), including fatty acids with 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, in particular, saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and their mixtures, for example, such as that marketed under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, Cl8-36 acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), vegetable oil extracted from coconut (which is composed of Caprylic / Capric triglyceride), jojoba oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, as well as unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil; and other vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as Japanese Camellia seed oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, hazelnut oil, tsubaki oil, cashew nut oil, argan oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, wheat germ oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil (rich in oleic acid (monounsaturated) and linoleic acid (diunsaturated acid)).

[0100] (4.11) and their mixtures, such as for example oils made from a mixture of C8-C10 fatty acid monoesters and C12-C18 fatty alcohol monoesters, such as MIGLYOL Coco 810 from IOI Oleo GmbH (INCI name: coco-Capylate / Caprate).

[0101] Preferably, the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from among ester oils, and in particular monoesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms in total, pentaesters, in particular having at least 35 carbon atoms, and from among vegetable hydrocarbon oils, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0102] Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0103] With regard to non-polar non-volatile oils, particular examples include paraffin oil, squalane, pentadecane, nonadecane, eicosane, isoeicosane, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, and mixtures thereof. An example of a mixture of non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils is the product Emogreen L15 sold by Seppic, which is a mixture of C15-C19 alkanes.

[0104] Non-volatile silicone oils

[0105] With regard to non-volatile silicone oils, one can cite for example non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils, such as polydimethyl-siloxane, also called dimethicone.

[0106] Phenylated silicone oils may also be mentioned, such as diphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, or tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, as well as mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the non-volatile silicone oil does not comprise any C2-C3 oxyalkylated (oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated) group(s) or any glycerol group(s).

[0107] Volatile oils

[0108] By "volatile oil" is meant oils having a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more specifically ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa. Volatile oils can be hydrocarbon or silicone-based.

[0109] Examples of nonpolar volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms include C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, particularly isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and especially isohexadecane.Other examples include volatile linear alkanes containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, particularly 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and especially 11 to 13 carbon atoms, such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97 respectively, and their mixtures; the undecane-tridecane mixture, such as BASF's Cetiol Ultimate; the mixtures of n-undecane (CH) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis's application WO 2008 / 155059, and their mixtures; and ethers having a maximum of 16 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether and polypropylene glycol butyl ether, which has 14 units. propylene, also known as "PPG-14 butyl ether".

[0110] Examples of siliconized volatile oils include linear siliconized volatile oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. Examples of cyclic siliconized volatile oils include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, and cyclohexasiloxane. [YES] Waxes:

[0112] The oily phase useful for the cosmetic or dermatological composition that is the subject of this application may comprise at least one silicone wax, or one hydrocarbon wax, polar or nonpolar. The wax is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), has a reversible solid / liquid phase change, and a melting point in particular greater than or equal to 30°C, more particularly greater than 45°C. Advantageously, the melting point is less than or equal to 90°C, more particularly less than or equal to 80°C, and preferably less than or equal to 70°C. The melting point of a solid fat can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q100" by TA Instruments with the software "TA "Universal Analysis".

[0113] The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of solid fat of approximately 5 mg is placed in a hermetically sealed aluminum crucible. The sample is first heated from 20°C to 120°C at a rate of 2°C / minute up to 80°C, then left at an isotherm of 100°C for 20 minutes, then cooled from 120°C to 0°C at a rate of 2°C / minute, and finally subjected to a second heating from 0°C to 20°C at a rate of 2°C / minute. The melting point of the solid fat is the value of the peak of the most endothermic point on the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0114] Polar hydrocarbon waxes

[0115] More specifically, the polar wax is selected from among hydrocarbon ester waxes, hydrocarbon alcohol waxes, silicone waxes, and mixtures thereof. "Hydrocarbon wax" means a wax formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups. "Ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester functional group. Ester waxes may also be hydroxylated. "Alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol functional group, that is, comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. Additional alcohol wax, in particular, does not comprise an ester functional group. "Silicon wax" means a wax comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

[0116] Ester waxes:

[0117] In particular, the following can be used as an ester wax:

[0118] i) waxes of formula R1-COO-R2 in which RI and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains with a number of atoms ranging from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose melting point temperature ranges from 30°C to 120°C, preferably from 30°C to 100°C. In particular, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate may be used as the ester wax. Such waxes are sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®", "Kester Wax K 80 P®", or "KESTER WAX K82H" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. Mixtures of C14-C18 carboxylic acid esters and alcohols can also be used, such as the products "Cetyl Ester Wax 814" from KOSTER KEUNEN, "SP Crodamol MS MB AL", "Crodamol MS PA" from CRODA, and "Miraceti" from The company LASERSON. One can also use a glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) such as the LICOWAX KPS FLAKES wax (INCI name: glycol montanate) marketed by the company Clariant.

[0119] ii) di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), sold under the name Hest 2T4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0120] iii) Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturates. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

[0121] (iv) Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having, in particular, linear or branched fatty chains in the C8-C32 range, for example, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. Examples of waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol include those sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57".

[0122] (v) waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, in particular refined.

[0123] vi) Other examples include hydrocarbon, polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated waxes, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylated units (C2-C4) can vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerol units can vary from 1 to 20. Examples include polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba wax, such as PEG-12 carnauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, polyoxyethenated or polyoxypropylenated, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; Polyglycerol beeswaxes, including polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, the Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters blend, polyglycerol vegetable waxes such as mimosa, jojoba, sunflower waxes, and their blends (Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters.

[0124] vii) Waxes corresponding to partial or total, preferably total, esters of a saturated C16-C30 carboxylic acid, optionally hydroxylated, with glycerol. By total esters, it is understood that all the hydroxyl groups of glycerol are esterified. Examples include trihydroxystearine (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearine (or glyceryl tristearate), and tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or in mixtures. Suitable compounds include triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or of hydrogenated castor oil, such as Thixcin R and Thixcin E, marketed by Elementis Specialties.

[0125] viii) as well as mixtures thereof.

[0126] Alcohol waxes

[0127] Examples of alcohol waxes include alcohols, preferably linear, preferably saturated, comprising 16 to 60 carbon atoms, with a melting point between 25°C and 90°C. Examples of alcohol waxes include stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, palmitic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

[0128] Nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes

[0129] The wax can be chosen from among nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes. By "nonpolar hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax comprising only carbon or hydrogen atoms in its structure. In other words, such a wax is free of other atoms, in particular heteroatoms such as, for example, nitrogen, oxygen, or silicon. By way of illustration of nonpolar waxes suitable for the invention, one may mention in particular hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and microwaxes, particularly polyethylene.

[0130] Silicone waxes

[0131] Examples of silicone waxes include: mixtures containing a C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane compound (INCI name), such as Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax marketed by Dow Corning; mixtures containing a C30-45 Alkyl Methicone compound (INCI name), such as Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax; mixtures containing a C20-24 alkyl methicone compound, such as KCC Beauty's SeraSoft SW 73; and mixtures containing a C26-28 alkyl methicone compound, such as Wacker's Belsil® CDM 3526 VP and Belsil® CM 7026 VP. Silicone beeswax may also be mentioned.

[0132] The cosmetic or dermatological composition that is the subject of this application may include a wax content, preferably polar wax(s), preferably polar hydrocarbon wax(s), of between 0.5 and 10% by weight, or from 0.5 to 6% by weight, or from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition.

[0133] Vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids

[0134] By "vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids" is meant a vegetable oil, or oil of vegetable origin, which comprises between 15 and 95% by weight of monounsaturated fatty acids, preferably between 30 and 90%, more preferably between 50 and 85%, relative to the total weight of said oil. This oil may also comprise less than 25% by weight of saturated fatty acids, and / or less than 70% by weight of polyunsaturated fatty acids, relative to the total weight of said oil.

[0135] The monounsaturated fatty acid may be oleic acid, palmitoleic acid, ga-doleic acid (or 11-eicosenoic acid), or mixtures thereof. The polyunsaturated fatty acid may be linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, or mixtures thereof. The saturated fatty acid may be palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0136] Vegetable oils rich in monounsaturated fatty acids useful for the composition covered by this application are macadamia oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, and sunflower seed oil. In one embodiment, the vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids is macadamia oil.

[0137] Effects on the sensory profile

[0138] The cosmetic or dermatological composition that is the subject of this application has the advantage of possessing a sensory profile characterized by a significant cushioning effect and moderate pilling upon application and / or after drying. "Significant cushioning effect" means a cushioning effect, measured according to the sensory evaluation method described in this application, with a score of 5 or higher, preferably 6 or higher, 7 or higher, and most preferably 7.5 or higher. "Moderate pilling upon application" and "moderate pilling after drying" mean pilling measured according to the sensory evaluation method described in this application, with a score of 5 or lower, preferably 4 or lower, and preferably 3 or lower.

[0139] During the application of the cosmetic or dermatological composition, two types of residue may form: wet flakes and / or a film of wet material, which may persist on the skin after application. A "film of wet material" is defined as the layer of cosmetic or dermatological composition that has not penetrated the skin and is therefore spread more or less homogeneously on the skin, with a thickness of less than approximately 1 mm, preferably less than or equal to approximately 0.5 mm. "Wet flakes" are defined as fragments of cosmetic or dermatological composition with sufficient consistency to be visible even when the skin is not fully absorbed. visually and felt by touch, which may resemble aggregates or agglomerates of the constituents of said composition, and which still have a high water content.

[0140] After the application residue has penetrated or dried, rubbing the skin with an index finger can cause the formation of two types of residue: a "sand-like" residue and / or dry lint. "Sand-like residue" refers to more or less dry fragments, less than 1 mm in size, which may resemble small scales or fine to very fine sand, and which are felt when rubbed on the skin as a slight exfoliating sensation. "Dry lint" refers to water-poor aggregates in the form of well-formed, individual "balls," containing all or part of the constituents of the cosmetic or dermatological composition. This dry lint may be in the form of "sausages" 2 mm or more in length and 0.5 mm or more in width.

[0141] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological composition has: - a cushioning effect with a rating of 7 or higher, preferably 7.5 or higher, and - a flaking on application having a score less than or equal to 5, preferably less than or equal to 4.5, and most preferably less than or equal to 4, - a flaking after drying having a score less than or equal to 4, preferably less than or equal to 3, and most preferably less than or equal to 2.5.

[0142] Use of oil and surfactant to reduce lint

[0143] Another object of the present application is the use of an oil and a surfactant in a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one carboxyalkylated starch as a thickening agent for the aqueous phase of said composition, said use being characterized in that the ratio of the mass of the oil to the mass of the surfactant is within a range of 0.3 to 7, or 0.5 to 6, or 0.75 to 5, or 1 to 4, or 1.25 to 3, or 1.5 to 2.5, or is equal to 2, and said use making it possible to reduce or eliminate pilling on application and / or after drying, while maintaining a cushioning effect.

[0144] According to one embodiment of this use, it consists of using a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon vegetable oil or oil of vegetable origin and a non-ionic surfactant. The non-volatile polar hydrocarbon vegetable oil may be chosen from vegetable oils rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, macadamia oil, for example macadamia oil. The non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from sorbitan esters, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, citric acid diesters, or mixtures thereof, for example a mixture of sorbitan laurate, poly- glyceryl-4 laurate and dilauryl citrate, for example that marketed under the reference "Tego® Care LTP" by the company Evonik Personal Care.

[0145] Gelling system with cushion effect and moderate flaking

[0146] Another object of the present application is a mixture of a carboxyalkylated starch, a surfactant and an oil as a cushioning gelling or thickening system with moderate flaking, useful for preparing cosmetic or dermatological compositions exhibiting a cushioning effect and moderate flaking on application and / or after drying.

[0147] According to one embodiment, the gelling or thickening system with a cushioning effect and moderate flaking preferably comprises: - at least one carboxyalkyl starch, preferably chosen from carboxyethyl starches, carboxymethyl starches, carboxypropyl starches, carboxybutyl starches, and most preferably the carboxyalkyl starch is a carboxymethyl starch, - at least one oil, preferably chosen from oils of natural origin, in particular vegetable, and mineral oils, silicones, preferably the oil phase is made up of at least one oil of natural origin, in particular vegetable, - at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, or cationic surfactants.

[0148] In said gelling or thickening system, the ratio of the mass of the oil to the mass of the surfactant is within a range of 0.3 to 7, or 0.5 to 6, or 0.75 to 5, or 1 to 4, or 1.25 to 3, or 1.5 to 2.5, or is equal to 2.

[0149] Sensory profile assessment method

[0150] The sensory profile of a cosmetic or dermatological composition as described in this application is evaluated by a panel of at least four experts in the sensory analysis of cosmetic products, trained for four months, with one session per week, to evaluate the following three sensory criteria on a scale from 0 to 10: cushioning effect, pilling upon application, and pilling after drying. The "0" mark on the scale for a sensory criterion corresponds to the minimum value of that criterion, i.e., the weakest sensation for that criterion, and the "10" mark corresponds to the maximum value of that criterion, i.e., the strongest sensation for that criterion.

[0151] The panelists' training consists of sensory memorization, that is to say, memorizing the sensations felt when handling and applying to their forearm reference compositions corresponding to the extreme limits of the ranges of the criteria to be evaluated, namely:

[0152] for terminal “0” of the three criteria evaluated here: the “fluid” terminal of the “EBITouch®” kit for the “cushion effect” criterion, and the bare skin of the inner area of the forearm, which has very little or no hair, for fluffing during application and fluffing after drying.

[0153] for terminal "10" of the three criteria evaluated here: an aqueous gel of carboxymethylated starch Beauté by Roquette® ST 118 at 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the gel, and of sorbitol Beauté by Roquette PO 071 at 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the gel, prepared in demineralized water according to the following protocol: in demineralized water maintained at 80°C, dissolution of the sorbitol under agitation at 100-200 rpm with the deflocculating blade for 5 minutes, then dispersion of the carboxymethylated starch under agitation at 500-1000 rpm with the deflocculating blade and maintenance under agitation for 15 minutes at 80°C.

[0154] The three criteria are then evaluated according to the following protocols:

[0155] For the "cushion effect" criterion: this is evaluated when approximately 0.04 grams of the reference composition or the composition to be evaluated is grasped. The composition is placed between the index finger and thumb, and then three pressures are applied while spreading the fingers by no more than 0.5 cm. The threshold "10" is described as producing a "rebound" effect, corresponding to a very elastic composition that retains its consistency. The threshold "0" is described as producing no rebound effect, corresponding to a composition that is not at all elastic and is fluid, i.e., that spreads without retaining its consistency.

[0156] For the criterion "linting upon application": this is assessed by applying approximately 0.2 grams of the composition to the inside of the forearm. The composition is taken with the index finger and then applied to a rectangular area, referred to as the "measurement area," located on the inside of the forearm, measuring approximately 7 cm longitudinally and approximately 5 cm transversely. The application is performed by making ten rotations with the tip of the index finger, covering the entire surface, at a speed of approximately one revolution per second. The threshold "10" is described as producing a large amount of wet lint. The notation "4" corresponds to the maximum amount of "wet film" residue remaining on the skin surface after application. The threshold "0" corresponds to the total absence of wet lint and "wet film" residue.

[0157] For the "pilling after drying" criterion: it is assessed seven minutes after the assessment of the "pilling upon application" criterion on the same rectangular area "as is," that is, in the state in which it is at the time of the "pilling upon application" criterion assessment, therefore after the application of approximately 0.2 grams of the composition to the forearm according to the "pilling upon application" criterion protocol. The seven-minute waiting period must allow for the penetration and / or drying of any composition that may have persisted as a film of wet material and / or wet flakes after the application step. After seven minutes While waiting, a rubbing motion with the index finger is performed on the rectangular measurement area, making five back-and-forth movements along the length of the forearm, with firm pressure applied to the area. The "0" mark corresponds to the complete absence of "sand"-type residue and dry lint. The "4" mark corresponds to a maximum amount of "sand"-type residue. The "6" mark corresponds to the appearance of the first dry lint, which is generally concomitant with the disappearance of the "sand"-type residue, presumably due to its transformation into dry lint. The "10" mark is described as the formation of a large amount of dry lint.

[0158] To support the training sessions and evaluations conducted by the panelists, flowcharts for evaluating the criteria were developed to ensure that the panelists provided consistent ratings. The following tables summarize the ratings proposed in these guide flowcharts and their associated descriptions. The right-hand column shows the level of acceptability of the ratings for an average consumer. Cushion Effect Rating Description 0 Not elastic, no material remains between the fingers, the composition spreads to the sides or becomes more fluid. 1 Not elastic, very little material remains between the fingers, the composition spreads to the sides or becomes more fluid. 2 Not elastic, some material remains between the fingers, some of the composition spreads to the sides or becomes more fluid, some spreads less to the sides and becomes less fluid. 3 Not elastic, a medium amount of material remains between the fingers, the composition does not spread to the sides and does not become more fluid. 4 Not elastic, a lot of material remains between the fingers, the composition does not spread to the sides and does not become more fluid. 5 Slightly elastic, very little material remains between the fingers, the composition spreads to the sides or becomes more fluid. 6. Slightly elastic: little material remains between the fingers; some of the composition spreads to the sides or becomes more fluid; some spreads less to the sides and becomes less fluid. Acceptable. 7. Slightly elastic: a medium amount of material remains between the fingers; the composition does not spread to the sides or become more fluid OR Very elastic: little or no material remains between the fingers; the composition spreads to the sides or becomes more fluid. 8. Slightly elastic: a lot of material remains between the fingers; the composition does not spread to the sides or become more fluid OR Very elastic: some material remains between the fingers; some of the composition spreads to the sides or becomes more fluid; some spreads less to the sides and becomes less fluid.9 Very elastic, a medium amount of material remains between the fingers, the composition does not spread to the sides and does not become fluid. 10 Very elastic, a lot of material remains between the fingers, the composition does not spread to the sides and does not become fluid. Linting upon application Rating Description 0 No layer of material is observed; the product penetrates upon application. Acceptable 1 A thin, homogeneous layer of material remains on the skin. 2 A medium, homogeneous layer of material is observed; this layer may be translucent. 3 A thick, homogeneous layer of material remains on the skin but does not pill; this layer may be slightly white. 4 A very thick, homogeneous layer of material remains on the skin but does not pill; this layer may be slightly white. 5 A rating of "5" is not permitted. The panelist must choose between a rating of 4 or 6. 6. Fuzz appears, and during rotations, does not disappear or penetrate; the number of fuzz pieces is less than or equal to 2, these fuzz pieces have a "length" less than or equal to 2 mm, and a "width" less than or equal to 0.5 mm. Not acceptable. 7. Fuzz appears, and during rotations, does not disappear or penetrate; the number of fuzz pieces is less than or equal to 4, these fuzz pieces have a "length" less than or equal to 2 mm, and a "width" less than or equal to 0.5 mm. 8. Fuzz appears, and during rotations, does not disappear or penetrate; the number of fuzz pieces is less than or equal to 6, these fuzz pieces have a "length" between 2 mm and 4 mm, and a "width" less than or equal to 0.5 mm. 9. Fuzz appears, and during rotations, does not disappear or penetrate;the number of fluff pieces is less than or equal to 8, these fluff pieces have a "length" between 2 and 4 mm, and a "width" less than or equal to 0.5 mm; 10 fluff pieces appear and, during rotations, do not disappear and do not penetrate; the number of fluff pieces is greater than or equal to 10, these fluff pieces have a "length" greater than 4 mm, and a "width" greater than 0.5 mm; Linting after drying Rating Description 0 No lint or "sand"-like residue is observed. Acceptable 1 No thick lint is observed; some fine, "sand-like" residue is felt to the touch, but is not visible to the naked eye on the forearm skin. 2 No thick lint is observed; some fine, "sand-like" residue is felt to the touch, but is barely visible to the naked eye on the forearm skin, and is visible to the naked eye on the index finger after rubbing. 3 No thick lint is observed; some fine, "sand-like" residue is felt to the touch, and is visible to the naked eye on the forearm skin and on the index finger after rubbing. 4 No thick lint is observed; Some fine residues resembling "sand" can be felt to the touch, and are visible to the naked eye on the skin of the forearm and on the index finger after rubbing;The residues cover a larger area than the score of 3.5. A score of "5" is not permitted. The panelist must choose between a score of 4 or 6. 6. Plush toys appear; a small number of small toys form: there are fewer than 3 toys, and the length of the toys is less than or equal to 1 mm, and the width is less than or equal to 0.5 mm. Not acceptable. 7. Plush toys appear; an average number of small toys form: there are between 4 and 10 toys, and the length of the toys is less than or equal to 1 mm, and the width is less than or equal to 0.5 mm. 8. Plush toys appear; an average number of medium-sized toys form: there are between 4 and 10 toys, and the length of the toys is greater than or equal to 3 mm, and the width is greater than or equal to 1 mm. 9. Plush toys appear; an average number of large fluffs form: there are between 10 and 14 fluffs, and the length of the fluffs is greater than or equal to 3 mm, and the width is greater than or equal to 1 mm 10 thick fluffs appear;A large number of fluff pieces are formed and of large sizes: there are more than 15 fluff pieces, and the length of the fluff pieces is greater than or equal to 3 mm, and the width is greater than or equal to 1 mm;

[0162] These tables are also represented in the form of a flowchart in Figures 1, 2 and 3. Examples

[0163] Example 1: Reduction of the peeling of an aqueous carboxymethylated starch gel by the addition of macadamia oil and Tego® Care LTP

[0164] In this example, we investigated the impact of introducing macadamia oil and a room-temperature liquid nonionic surfactant, Tego® Care LTP from the manufacturer ©Evonik Industries AG, on the sensory profile of an aqueous gel of Beauté by Roquette® ST 118 carboxymethyl starch (abbreviated as "BBR ST 118") at 7% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the gel. By experimental screening along two dimensions, namely macadamia oil content and Tego® Care LTP content, we determined the sensory profiles of the aqueous gels of BBR ST 118 with respect to the sensory criteria of cushioning effect, pilling upon application, and pilling after drying, according to the method described in this application.

[0165] To prepare aqueous gels of BBR ST 118 with different oil contents macadamia and Tego® Care LTP, we proceeded according to the following protocol, based on the levels shown in the results tables below: - in demineralized water preheated to 25°C, disperse the carboxymethylated starch Beauté by Roquette® ST 118 under agitation at 2500 rpm with a deflocculating blade, and maintain under agitation and temperature for 15 minutes, - While stirring and at 25°C, simultaneously add the oil and the previously mixed surfactant, - Maintain under agitation at 2500 rpm with the deflocculating blade for 10 minutes at 25°C, - Add a preservative and homogenize by stirring for one minute.

[0166] Sensory evaluations of each gel were then carried out within one week of their preparation to avoid any potential variations during storage. The results obtained are presented in the following tables (empty cells correspond to combinations not tested).

[0167] [Tables4] Cushioning effect Macadamia oil (% by weight) 5 8.4 8 7 7.5 7 3 7.1 8 2 7.1 1 8.8 8.3 0 8.9 8.9 8.9 8.9 6.7 0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 5 7 Tego Care LTP (% by weight)

[0168] According to the results presented in Table 4, macadamia oil alone or Tego Care LTP alone has a slight negative impact on the cushioning effect, for a specific macadamia oil content of 2% and for a Tego Care LTP content of 7%. When combined, macadamia oil and Tego Care LTP cause a decrease in the cushioning effect starting at a concentration of at least 2% for oil and at least 1.5% for Tego Care LTP: the cushioning effect rating drops below 8. This remains, however, an acceptable rating, which provides a noticeable cushioning effect. Linting upon application of 7 3 macadamia oil 6 mia (% by weight) 5 5.1 3.2 4 4.7 3.8 3 4.3 3.8 2 2.4 1 1.6 3.1 0 1.6 3.8 3.3 3.8 4.3 0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 5 7 Tego Care LTP (% by weight)

[0170] According to the results presented in Table 5, regarding peeling upon application, the aqueous gel of BBR ST 118 already has a low rating, with a value of 1.6. The introduction of macadamia oil or Tego Care LTP alone induces an increase in peeling upon application: the ratings for this criterion reach values ​​close to the acceptable limit of 5, for concentrations of 5% oil or 7% Tego Care LTP. Similarly, the combination of macadamia oil and Tego Care LTP also induces an increase in peeling upon application, but to a lesser extent, so that a rating of approximately 3 or 4 is achievable.

[0171] [Tableauxô] Linting after drying Macadamia oil 7 1.4 6 mia (% by weight) 5 8 4 2.3 2.3 2 3 3.6 3 2 8 1 8.8 5.1 0 8.1 7.9 6.3 5.4 5.3 0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 5 7 Tego Care LTP (% by weight)

[0172] According to the results presented in Table 6, concerning the flaking after After drying, macadamia oil alone does not reduce post-drying flakes, which are rated at 8 up to 5% oil content. Tego Care LTP significantly reduces post-drying flakes starting at a Tego Care LTP content of at least 3% by weight, achieving ratings below approximately 6. Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the combination of macadamia oil and Tego Care LTP significantly reduces post-drying flakes. By combining at least 3% oil by weight relative to the total composition weight and at least 1.5% Tego Care LTP by weight relative to the total composition weight, post-drying flakes decrease to ratings below 4. Ratings below 2 are even achieved for combinations of at least 5% oil and at least 2.5% Tego Care LTP.

[0173] For these combinations of oil and Tego Care LTP content, the flaking on application remains less than or equal to ratings of 4, or even 3, according to the results in Table 5. In addition, the cushioning effect remains greater than or equal to 7 for these same combinations, which is a completely acceptable rating, indicating a significantly noticeable cushioning effect.

[0174] The present example therefore shows that the combination of macadamia oil and the non-ionic surfactant Tego Care LTP makes it possible to reduce pilling after drying, while maintaining pilling on application and cushioning effect at acceptable ratings.

[0175] Example 2: Combinations of Tego Care LTP with other oils

[0176] In this example, aqueous gels comprising 6 to 8 wt% of BBR ST 118 carboxymethyl starch are evaluated, to which is added a binary combination of the nonionic surfactant Tego Care LTP and an oil chosen from the oils in Table 7. Initially, the surfactant content is fixed at 2.5 wt%, and that of the oil at 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of an aqueous gel at 7 wt% of BBR ST 118. [Paintings?] Oil Type Trade Name - Supplier INCI Name Vegetable Macadamia Oil - Cooper Macadamia Temifolia Seed Oil Vegetable Refined Sweet Almond Oil - Cooper Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil Vegetable Jojoba Oil - Cooper Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Vegetable Argan Oil - Cooper Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil Vegetable Virgin Sunflower Oil - Cooper Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Vegetable Olive Oil - Aromazone Olea Europaea Fruit Oil Cetiol® OE Ether - BASF Dicaprylyl Ether TEGOSOFT® PBE BF Ether - Evonik PPG-14 Butyl Ether Ester DUB™ VINYL - Stearinerie Dubois Dipentaerythrityl Pentaisononanoate Ester DUB™ MCT 55 / 45 MB - Stearinerie Dubois Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Ester TEGOSOFT® INI - Evonik Isononyl isononanoate Ester Isopropyl Myristate - BASF Isopropyl Myristate Alkan Cetiol® Ultimate - BASF Undecane,Tridecane Alkan Isohexadecane - IMCD Isohexadecane Silicon XIAMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid - Dow Chemical Company Dimethicone Silicon (cy clic)

[0177] Each gel is then subjected to a sensory evaluation by the trained panel on the criteria of cushioning effect, pilling upon application, and pilling after drying.

[0178] Example 3: Combinations of macadamia oil with other surfactants

[0179] In this example, aqueous gels comprising 6 to 8 wt% of carboxymethylated starch BBR ST 118 are evaluated, to which a combination is added binary of macadamia oil and a surfactant chosen from the surfactants in Table 8. Initially, the surfactant content is set at 2.5% by weight, and that of the oil at 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous gel at 7% by weight of BBRST 118.

[0180] [Tables8] Nom commençai - Fournisseur Nom INCI TEGO® Care LTP - Evonik Sorbitan Laurate,Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate,D ilauryl Citrate TEGO® SML 20 - Evonik Polysorbate 20 Tween™ 80 - Croda Polysorbate 80 MONTANOX™ 85 VG DF - Seppic Polysorbate 85 Microcare® Silicone El200 - Thor PEG-12 Dimethicone Eumulgin® CO 40 - BASF PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Sistema SP70-C - Sisterna Sucrose stéarate MONTANE™ 20 - Seppic Sorbitan Laurate Tween™ 28 - Croda PEG -80 Sorbitan Laurate TEGO® Care CG 90 - Evonik Cetearyl Glucoside SEPICLEAR™ G7 - Seppic Heptyl Glucoside ORAMIX™ CG 110 - Seppic Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside IMWITOR® 948 - IOI Oleo Glyceryl Oleate Dermofeel® Gsc Sg - Evonik Glyceryl Stéarate Citrate Hydriol PGCH.4- Hydrior AG Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate Durosoft® PG4L-SG - Stephenson Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate IMWITOR® 600 - IOI Oleo Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate NIKKOL Decaglyn® 1-L - NIKKOL Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate Eumulgin® SG - BASF Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate EUMULGIN® O 5 - BASF Oleth-5 DEHYQUART® 40 - BASF Cetrimonium Chloride.

[0181] Each gel is then subjected to a sensory evaluation by the trained panel on the criteria of cushioning effect, pilling upon application, and pilling after drying.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, at least one carboxyalkylated starch or a carboxyalkylated and crosslinked starch, and at least one non-ionic surfactant, wherein the ratio of the amount of said oily phase to the amount of said non-ionic surfactant is in the range of 0.3 to 7, and wherein the mass percentage of said non-ionic surfactant relative to the total weight of said composition is greater than or equal to 1.5% and the mass percentage of the oily phase is at least 2.5% relative to the total weight of said composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, an aqueous or oily gel, or an aqueous or oily isotrope.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mass percentage of carboxyalkylated starch in said composition is greater than or equal to 0.1%, or 0.25%, or 0.5%, or 1%, or 2%, or 3%, or 4%, or 5%, or 6%, or 7%, or 8%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mass percentage in the oil phase in said composition is less than or equal to 15%, or 7%, or 6%, or 5%.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mass percentage of said nonionic surfactant relative to the total weight of said composition is greater than or equal to 2%, or 2.5%, or 3%, or 3.5%, or 5%, or 7%.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the carboxyalkyl starch is selected from carboxyethyl starches, carboxymethyl starches, carboxypropyl starches, carboxybutyl starches, or wherein the carboxyalkyl starch is a carboxymethyl starch.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from sorbitan esters, fatty acid polyglyceryls, citric acid diesters, or mixtures thereof.

8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase comprises at least one oil selected from oils of natural origin, in particular vegetable oils, and mineral oils, silicones, preferably the oily phase consists of at least one oil of natural origin, especially vegetable.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase comprises at least 50% by weight of a vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, preferably at least 75%, preferably at least 90%, and any preferably consists of a vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the monounsaturated fatty acid-rich vegetable oil comprises between 15 and 85% by weight of monounsaturated fatty acid.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids comprises: - less than 25% by weight of saturated fatty acids, - and / or less than 70% by weight of polyunsaturated fatty acids.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the oily phase comprises less than 50% by weight of vegetable oil, or less than 40%, or less than 30%, or less than 20%, or less than 10%, or less than 5%, or less than 1%, relative to the total weight of said composition.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 9 or 10, characterized in that it is a cream gel and in that the carboxyalkylated starch, the vegetable oil rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, and the non-ionic surfactant constitute the gelling system of said composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one cosmetic ingredient selected from detergent surfactants, cationic polymers, pigments, colorants, mother-of-pearls, and silicas.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cream or a gel.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, for use as a shower gel, washing gel, shampoo, or hair conditioner.

17. Aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel-cream, comprising: - at least one carboxyalkyl starch, preferably carboxymethyl starch, - at least one oil, preferably macadamia oil, - and at least one non-ionic surfactant, wherein the ratio of the quantity of said oil to the quantity of said surfactant is within the range of 0.3 to 7, and wherein the mass percentage of said non-ionic surfactant relative to the total weight of said gel is greater than or equal to 1.5% and the mass percentage in the oil phase is at least 2.5% relative to the total weight of said gel.

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