Composition based on clay and salicylic acid

Abstract

Clay and Salicylic Acid Composition. The present invention relates to an aqueous cosmetic composition, particularly for skincare, comprising at least one clay, salicylic acid and / or a salicylic acid derivative, a citric acid salt, and an anionic surfactant, wherein the weight ratio of clay to said anionic surfactant(s) is greater than 1. It also relates to a method for skincare and / or cleansing, and more particularly for facial and / or neck skincare, using such a composition. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Clay and salicylic acid-based composition. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, more particularly a skin cleansing composition and especially a facial skin cleansing mask composition, which can be used both as a facial cleanser and as a mask. Previous technique

[0002] Conventionally, a cosmetic composition described as a mask is a cosmetic composition formulated to be applied to the skin in the form of a layer of varying thickness, designed to provide skin care, generally deep cleansing of the epidermis. After an application time necessary to achieve this effect, generally exceeding 1, 2, 3, 5, 10, or even 15 minutes, this layer is then removed.

[0003] The present invention relates more specifically to compositions of foaming cleansing masks, capable of forming both a water-rinsable mask and a foaming cleanser on contact with water and rinseable with water.

[0004] A water-rinsable mask is distinguished from peel-off masks, which are film-forming compositions that, after application to the face, dry to give a film that is removed by peeling and / or tearing.

[0005] Mask compositions classically contain absorbent fillers, in particular clay compounds, such as kaolin, which by their absorbent power fix the oily compounds on the surface of the epidermis (sebum), resulting in deep cleansing of the skin.

[0006] It is also known to use active ingredients in cleansing cosmetic products and masks to improve skin cleansing and skin appearance. In particular, salicylic acid is an active ingredient used on the skin for its overall anti-blemish action, notably for:

[0007] - to rid the skin of dead cells that dull the complexion, to prevent blockage pores that cause acne,

[0008] - stimulate cell renewal, minimize pores or the appearance of pores, smooth the skin,

[0009] - to even out skin tone, by eliminating melanin-filled cells accumulated at the surface of the stratum corneum, thus reducing pigment spots,

[0010] - reduce redness thanks to its non-irritating effect, capable of adapting to all types of skin, even the most sensitive. Description of the invention

[0011] Skin cleansing combined with a global anti-blemish action is of interest to consumers worldwide.

[0012] However, formulating in association a clay compound such as kaolin with a high weight content, in particular greater than 15% by weight, in an aqueous formula of foaming cleansing mask with salicylic acid or one of its derivatives proves to be a real challenge, as the resulting formula becomes unstable, with a prohibitive pinking of the formula being observed.

[0013] However, the aforementioned “anti-blemish” benefits must not be manifested at the expense of other expected properties, such as the stability of the cosmetic formula over time, its easy and pleasant application, its quick drying or application time, a creamy foam (in satisfactory volume and quality of foam), and easy rinsing, providing a feeling of comfort (during application, application time, foaming, or after rinsing) and a finish of clean, smooth, supple, fresh, hydrated skin, and a luminous complexion.

[0014] The present invention aims to meet these expectations. Summary of the invention

[0015] The present invention relates to an aqueous composition, particularly a cosmetic one, especially for skincare, comprising at least:

[0016] - a clay, such as kaolin,

[0017] - salicylic acid and / or a derivative of salicylic acid,

[0018] - a salt of citric acid,

[0019] - an anionic surfactant,

[0020] in which the weight ratio of clay compound to said surfactant(s) is greater than 1.

[0021] Contrary to expectations, the inventors found that the implementation of clay(s) and surfactant(s) (foaming agent(s)) considered according to the invention, with a weight ratio of clay to surfactant(s) greater than 1, combined with salicylic acid, makes it possible to obtain a composition of the type of foaming cleansing mask meeting the aforementioned expectations in particular of color stability, subject to the simultaneous presence of a salt of citric acid in the composition according to the invention.

[0022] The present invention also relates, according to a second aspect, to the cosmetic use of a composition such as previously described, as a rinse-off skin care mask, in particular a rinse-off skin cleansing mask.

[0023] According to a third aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic skincare process, in particular for cleansing the skin, and more particularly the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising at least the steps of:

[0024] - i) form on the surface of the skin a film of a composition such as described previously;

[0025] - ii) optionally, keep said film on the surface of the skin for a time of Leave for at least one minute, preferably until it is dry; and

[0026] - iii) remove said film, in particular by rinsing, preferably with water.

[0027] Other features, properties, and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following description and example. Detailed Description

[0028] The components of the composition according to the invention are now described in more detail. clays

[0029] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one clay.

[0030] Clays are products already well known and described, for example, in the work Minéralogie des argiles, S. Caillère, S. Hénin and M. Rautureau, 2nd edition 1982, Masson.

[0031] Among clays, we can cite clays of the smectite family, such as laponite and montmorillonite; of the kaolinite family, such as kaolinite, kaolin, dickite or nacrite, clays, possibly modified, of the halloysite, donbassite, antigorite, benthierine or pyrophyllite family, montmorillonite, beidellite, vermiculite, talc, stevensite, hectorite, bentonite, saponite, chlorite, sepiolite and illite.

[0032] The clay(s) present in the composition of the invention may be natural or synthetic (derived from synthesis). Natural clay is a sedimentary rock composed largely of specific minerals, silicates, generally aluminum. Kaolin is thus a natural clay.

[0033] Clays can also be chemically modified by various compounds, such as acrylic acids, polysaccharides (e.g. carboxymethylcellulose) or organic cations.

[0034] Within the framework of the present invention, it is preferable to use clays which are cosmetically compatible with and acceptable for keratinous materials, in particular skin.

[0035] The clay used is preferably chosen from kaolinite, kaolin, montmorillonite, saponite, laponite, bentonite, hectorite, Stevensites and illites. Clay mixtures are advantageously used. Preferably, the clays used in the composition of the invention are natural clays.

[0036] Preferably, the clay of the composition according to the invention is different from talc.

[0037] Preferably, the clay according to the invention is an unmodified clay. By clay Unmodified clay refers to a natural or synthetic clay that has not undergone any modification whatsoever. For example, when an unmodified clay suitable for the invention is an unmodified hectorite, this is distinct from hectorites modified with a C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. In one embodiment, an unmodified clay suitable for the invention is synthetic. In a preferred embodiment, an unmodified clay suitable for the invention is natural, preferably kaolinite or natural hectorite. Modified clay refers to sheet silicates whose lipophilicity has been increased, for example, by ion-exchange reactions with quaternary ammonium salts, preferably quaternary ammonium chlorides.

[0038] Examples of natural clays include green clays, particularly those rich in illite; clays rich in montmorillonite, known as fuller's earth; bentonites; and white clays rich in kaolinite. Bentonites sold by Elementis under the names "Bentone 38 VCG", "Bentone Gel CAO V", "Bentone 27 V", and "Bentone Gel MIO V" are examples.

[0039] Montmorillonites and smectites are hydrated aluminum and / or magnesium silicates. Examples include montmorillonite sold under the name "Gel White H" by Rockwood Additives and purified smectite sold under the name "Veegum Granules" by Vanderbilt. Other examples include montmorillonite sold under the name Kunipia G4 by Kunimine and sepiolite Pangel S9 sold by Toisa.

[0040] Examples of kaolinites include kaolins sold under the names Coslin C 100 by BASF Personal Care Ingredients or Kaolin Supreme by Imerys.

[0041] Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates generally comprising aluminum silicate. The crystalline structure of talc consists of repeated layers of a brucite sandwich between layers of silica. Examples include micronized magnesium silicate with a particle size of 5 microns, sold under the name Micro Ace P3 by Nippon Talc, or talcs sold under the names Rose Talc and Talc SG-2000 by Nippon Talc, J 68 BC by US Cosmetics (Miyoshi), Luzenac 00 and Luzenac Pharma M by Luzenac, and Talc JA-46R by Asada Milling.

[0042] One can cite, as an example of saponite, which belongs to the montmorillonite family, synthetic saponite, in particular that sold by Kunimine under the name Sumecton

[0043] One can cite, as an example of synthetic laponite, LAPONITE0 XLG, sold by Rockwood.

[0044] The clay(s) are advantageously present in a weight content ranging from 10 to 40%, preferably from 15 to 30%, preferably from 18 to 28% by weight, preferably from 20% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] More preferably, the clay used is different from magnesium and aluminum silicate, and preferably is kaolinite, in particular kaolin.

[0046] Advantageously, the clay according to the invention comprises at least kaolin, preferably the clay in the composition of the invention is kaolin. Kaolin

[0047] Kaolin is a natural clay composed mainly of kaolinite, a hydrated aluminum silicate belonging to the phyllosilicate family.

[0048] As examples of kaolin suitable for the present invention, one can mention in particular the supreme Kaolin marketed by IMERYS or the Coslin C 100 marketed by BASF, preferably the supreme Kaolin marketed by IMERYS.

[0049] A composition according to the invention may comprise a kaolin content of 1 to 40%, preferably 10 to 30%, in particular 20 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 18 to 28% by weight, preferably 20 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Salicylic acid and / or salicylic acid derivative

[0051] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one compound selected from salicylic acid and / or its derivatives.

[0052] Salicylic acid, or 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, is an active agent, particularly for treating imperfections.

[0053] Alternatively, a salicylic acid derivative is present. The salicylic acid derivatives are preferably those of formula (I):

[0054] [Chem.l]

[0055] in which: - the radical R designates an aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; an unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which may be conjugated; an aromatic ring linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said rings and chains being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R' is a hydroxyl group or ester group of formula -OC(O)-R1 in which RI denotes an aliphatic chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; - as well as their salts derived from a mineral or organic base.

[0056] Preferably: - the radical R designates a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon chains being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by an inferior alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R' is a hydroxyl group or ester group of formula -OC(O)-R1 in which RI denotes a radical -(CH2)n-CH3 where n is a number from 0 to 14; - as well as their salts obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.

[0057] The most preferred compounds are those in which the radical R is a C3-C11 alkyl group and R' denotes hydroxyl. Other compounds of particular interest are those in which R represents a chain derived from linoleic, linolenic, or oleic acid. Another group of particularly preferred compounds consists of compounds in which the radical R denotes a C3-C11 alkyl group bearing a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and R' denotes hydroxyl.

[0058] As preferred derivatives of salicylic acid, the following may therefore be cited: 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid), 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5 n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid or 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and their corresponding salts.

[0059] Preferably, salicylic acid is used in the composition according to the invention.

[0060] Advantageously, salicylic acid, or 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, is used as the sole hydroxy acid, or in combination with an alpha-hydroxy acid to ensure increased penetration of the composition into the skin.

[0061] For the purposes of this invention, salts of salicylic acid are also considered. These salts can be obtained by the salification of the acid in question with an organic or mineral base. Mineral bases include, in particular, hydroxylated alkali or alkaline earth bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and ammonia. Organic bases include, in particular, amine or alkanolamine bases.

[0062] Advantageously, said at least one salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative is present in the composition of the present invention in a total weight content of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% and better 0.1 to 2%, preferably 0.1 to 1.5%, preferably 0.1 to 1%, preferably 0.2 to 0.8%, by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition. Citric acid salt

[0063] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound selected from citric acid salts.

[0064] Non-limiting examples of citric acid salts include sodium citrate, tribasic sodium citrate, trisodium salt of citric acid, trisodium citrate, sodium citrate dihydrate, tribasic sodium citrate dihydrate, trisodium trisodium salt, trisodium citrate dihydrate, potassium citrate, tripotassium citrate, trisodium tripotassium citrate, trisore trisotric citrate, tripotassium trisotric citrate monohydrate, disodium salt of citric acid, disodium salt of citric acid sesquihydrate, sodium hydrogecitrate, sodium hydrogen citrate sesquihydrate, disodium hydrogen citrate, disodium hydrogen citrate sesquihydrate, dibasic sodium citrate, dibasic sodium citrate sesquihydrate, monobasic potassium citrate, dihydrogenated potassium citrate, monopotassium salt of citric acid, monobasic sodium citrate, dihydrogen sodium citrate, monosodium salt of citric acid,etc. ,

[0065] In a preferred embodiment, the salt of citric acid is chosen from sodium citrate (monosodium citrate, disodium citrate and / or trisodium citrate), potassium citrate (also called tripotassium citrate), and their combinations.

[0066] Advantageously, said citric acid salt is present in a weight content of 0.05 to 5%, preferably 0.1 to 2%, preferably 0.2 to 1% by weight, on the total weight of the composition. Foaming surfactant

[0067] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one foaming surfactant. The foaming surfactant according to the invention is advantageously chosen from anionic surfactants.

[0068] In the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio of clay(s) to said foaming surfactant(s) is greater than 1. Preferably, this weight ratio is greater than 2, preferably greater than 3, preferably greater than 4, preferably greater than 5.

[0069] Foaming surfactants are detergents and differ from emulsifiers by their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value, the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For emulsifiers, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W / O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of O / W emulsions, whereas foaming surfactants generally have an HLB greater than 20. The HLB, or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance, of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Da Vies method. ANIONIC SURFACTANTS

[0070] The anionic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention may be chosen in particular from anionic derivatives of plant-based proteins or silk proteins, phosphates and alkylphosphates, carboxylates, sulfosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, alkyl sulfoacetates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucoside, soaps (fatty acid salts) and mixtures thereof.

[0071] a) Anionic derivatives of plant-based proteins are protein hydrolysates with a hydrophobic group, said hydrophobic group being either naturally present in the protein or added by reaction of the protein and / or the protein hydrolysate with a hydrophobic compound. The proteins are of plant origin or derived from silk, and the hydrophobic group may be, in particular, a fatty chain, for example, an alkyl chain comprising 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples of anionic derivatives of plant-based proteins include, in particular, hydrolysates of apple, wheat, soy, and oat proteins. comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and their salts. The alkyl chain may be, in particular, a lauryl chain and the salt may be a sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salt.

[0072] Thus, as examples of hydrolysates of protein with a hydrophobic group, we can cite for example the salts of lauric acid-modified silk protein hydrolysates, such as the product marketed under the name KAWA SILK by the company Kawaken; the salts of lauric acid-modified wheat protein hydrolysates, such as the potassium salt marketed under the name Aminofoam W OR by the company Croda (CTFA name: Potassium lauroyl wheat aminoacids) and the sodium salt marketed under the name PROTEOL LW 30 by the company Seppic (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl wheat aminoacids); oat protein hydrolysate salts containing an alkyl chain with 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and more specifically oat protein hydrolysate salts modified by lauric acid, such as the sodium salt marketed under the name PROTEOL OAT (30% aqueous solution) by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Sodium lauroyl oat aminoacids);Apple protein hydrolysate salts, containing an alkyl chain with 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the sodium salt marketed under the name PROTEOL APL (30% hydroglycolic solution) by Seppic (CTFA name: Sodium Cocoyl Apple amino acids). Also noteworthy is the lauroyl amino acid mixture (aspartic, glutamic, glycine, alanine) neutralized with sodium N-methylglycinate, marketed under the name PROTEOL SAV 50 S by Seppic (CTFA name: Sodium Cocoyl amino acids).

[0073] b) Examples of phosphates and alkylphosphates include monoalkylphosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl monophosphate marketed under the name MAP 20® by Kao Chemicals, potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric acid, a mixture of mono- and diester (major diester) marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-31® by Cognis, octylphosphoric acid monoester and diester mixture marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-20® by Cognis, 2-butyloctanol ethoxylated (7 moles of EO) phosphate monoester and diester mixture marketed under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTER® by Condea, and potassium or triethanolamine salt of mono-alkyl (C12-C13) phosphate marketed under the references ARLATONE MAP 230K-40® and ARLATONE MAP 230T-60® by the company Uniqema,Potassium lauryl phosphate marketed under the name DERMALCARE MAP XC-99 / 09® by Rhodia Chimie, and potassium cetyl phosphate marketed under the name ARLATONE MAP 160K by Uniqema.

[0074] c) Examples of carboxylates include:

[0075] amido ethercarboxylates (AEC), such as sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 OE), marketed under the name AKYPO FOAM 30® by Kao Chemicals,

[0076] polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts, such as oxyethylenated (6 OE) sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (Cl2-14-16 65 / 25 / 10) marketed under the name AKYPO SOFT 45 NV® by Kao Chemicals, polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated olive oil-derived fatty acids marketed under the name OLIVEM 400® by BIOLOGIA E TECNOLOGIA, oxyethylenated (6 OE) sodium tri-decyl ether carboxylate marketed under the name NIKKOL ECTD-6NEX® by Nikkol,

[0077] d) Examples of amino acid derivatives include, in particular, alkali salts of amino acids, such as:

[0078] sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate marketed under the name SARKOSYL NL 97® by Ciba or marketed under the name ORAMIX L 30® by Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate marketed under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN® by Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate marketed under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN® by Nikkol, alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methyl amidopropionate marketed under the name SODIUM NIKKOL ALANINATE LN 30® by Nikkol, or marketed under the name ALANONE ALE® by Kawaken, N-lauroyl N-methyl alanine triethanolamine marketed under the name ALANONE ALTA® by Kawaken,

[0079] Glutamates, such as triethanolamine mono-cocoyl glutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-12® by Ajinomoto, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12® by Ajinomoto, aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate / triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate marketed under the name ASPARACK® by Mitsubishi, glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate marketed under the names AMILITE GCS-12® and AMILITE GCK 12 by Ajinomoto,

[0080] Citrates such as the oxyethylenated coconut alcohols citric monoester (9 moles), marketed under the name WITCONOL EC 1129 by the Goldschmidt company, galacturonates such as sodium dodeecyl d-galactoside uronate marketed by the Soliance company.

[0081] e) Examples of sulfosuccinates include, for instance, oxyethylenated (3 OE) lauryl alcohol (C12 / C14 70 / 30) monosulfosuccinate, marketed under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL®, REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4® by Witco, the disodium salt of a C12-C14 alcohol hemi-sulfosuccinate, marketed under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE® by Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (2 OE) disodium oleamidosulfosuccinate marketed under the name STANDAPOL SH 135® by Cognis, the oxyethylenated (5 OE) lauryl amide monosulfosuccinate marketed under the name LEBON A-5000® by Sanyo, the disodium salt of oxyethylenated (10 OE) lauryl citrate monosulfosuccinate marketed under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50® by Witco, the mono-ethanolamide ricinoleic monosulfosuccinate marketed under the name REWODERM S 1333® by Witco. Polydimethylsiloxane sulfosuccinates such as disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate, marketed under the name MACKANATE-DC30 by Mac Intyre, can also be used.

[0082] f) Examples of alkyl sulfates include triethanolamine lauryl sulfate (CTFA name: TEA-lauryl sulfate), such as the product marketed by Huntsman under the name EMPICOL TL40 FL or that marketed by Cognis under the name TEXAPON T42, both of which are 40% aqueous solutions. Ammonium lauryl sulfate (CFTA name: Ammonium lauryl sulfate), such as the product marketed by Huntsman under the name EMPICOL AL 30FL, which is also 30% aqueous solutions, can also be cited.

[0083] g) As examples of alkyl ether sulfates, we can cite for example sodium lauryl ether sulfate (CTFA name: sodium laureth sulfate) such as that marketed under the names TEXAPON N40 and TEXAPON AOS 225 UP by the company Cognis, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (CTFA name: ammonium laureth sulfate) such as that marketed under the name ST AND APOL EA-2 by the company Cognis.

[0084] h) Examples of sulfonates include alpha-olefin sulfonates such as sodium alpha-olefin sulfonate (C14-16) marketed under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40® by Stepan, marketed under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE® and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12® by Witco or marketed under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG® by Stepan, secondary sodium olefin sulfonate marketed under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 30® by Clariant; linear alkyl aryl sulfonates such as sodium xylene sulfonate marketed under the names MANROSOL SXS30®, MANROSOL SXS40®, MANROSOL SXS93® by Manro.

[0085] i) As isethionates, acylisethionates such as sodium cocoyl isethionate, such as the product marketed under the name JORDAPON CI P® by the Jordan company, can be cited.

[0086] j) As taurates, we can cite the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON CT PATE® by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates such as sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF® by the company Clariant or marketed under the name NIKKOL CMT-30-T® by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate marketed under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol.

[0087] k) Anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides may include, in particular, citrates, tartrates, sulfosuccinates, carbonates, and glycerol ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides. Examples include the sodium salt of tartaric ester of cocoyl polyglucoside (1,4), marketed under the name EUCAROL AGE-ET® by Cesalpinia; the disodium salt of sulfosuccinic ester of cocoyl polyglucoside (1,4), marketed under the name ESSAI 512 MP® by Seppic; and the sodium salt of citric ester of cocoyl polyglucoside (1,4), marketed under the name EUCAROL AGE-EC® by Cesalpinia.

[0088] Preferably the anionic surfactant is chosen from among alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate, isethionates, amino acid derivatives, in particular glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate and their mixtures and even more particularly alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate.

[0089] The anionic surfactant(s) are preferably present at concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight of active ingredient, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0090] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0091] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a quantity of water of at least 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 40 to 95% by weight and better from 50 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water, such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin waters, Uriage water, La Roche-Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux-Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint-Christau water, Fumades water and water from Tercis-les-Bains, Avene water. The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted thermal water, that is to say, water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., restoring the characteristics of thermal water.

[0093] The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention may further contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive. Examples of water-soluble additives include polyols comprising 3 to 10 carbon atoms. "Polyols" should be understood to mean any organic molecule having at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols include glycerin, glycols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, and polypropylene glycol. In a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol is selected from glycerin and hexylene glycol. Preferably, the polyol is glycerin.

[0094] Water-soluble additives can also be mentioned, such as primary alcohols, i.e., an alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. Ethanol is preferred. The addition of such an alcohol may be particularly suitable when the composition according to the invention is used as a body or hair product.

[0095] The content of water-soluble or water-dispersible additives in the composition of the invention can range, for example, from 0 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH greater than or equal to 5, which in particular allows its stability to be optimized.

[0097] The compositions of the invention may contain adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic field, and in particular those used in cleaning products.Examples of adjuvants include perfumes, preservatives, pigments, mother-of-pearl, mineral or organic fillers, mattifying, whitening or exfoliating agents, soluble colorants, sunscreens, cosmetic or dermatological actives such as water-soluble or fat-soluble vitamins, antiseptics, antiseborrheic agents, antimicrobials such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, triclosan, azelaic acid, and also optical brighteners, non-ionic polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), anionic polymers, amphoteric conditioning polymers such as polyquaterniums such as polyquaternium-47 marketed under the reference Merquat 2001 by the company Nalco, and fatty substances incompatible with the aqueous environment, such as oils or waxes.The quantities of these various adjuvants are those typically used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 to 25% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants and their concentrations are listed below. must be such that they do not alter the property sought for the composition of the invention.

[0098] As active ingredients, we can mention any care or cleansing active ingredient commonly used in the cosmetic field, and in particular antibacterials such as octopirox and triclosan, keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid, lactic acid or glycolic acid, salicylic acid derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, essential oils, fruit waters (for example apple, grape) or floral waters (for example rose), plant extracts (in particular tea, mint, orchid, soy), inclusions of leaves, flowers or petals, mineral salts (for example zinc, copper), vitamins such as vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E, vitamin PP (niacinamide), vitamin B3 (panthenol) and their derivatives.

[0099] Examples of charges include:

[0100] - additional mineral fillers such as the clays defined above,

[0101] - organic fillers such as starch, for example the product marketed under the name STARCH OF MEAT B ® by the company ROQUETTE, fibers such as cellulose fibers or "Rayonne" (RAYON FLOCK RCISE NOOO3 MO4® marketed by the company CLAREMONT FLOCK CORPORATION).

[0102] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains, as fillers, exfoliating particles that will allow the skin to be scrubbed. These exfoliating particles may be of mineral, vegetable, or organic origin.Thus, one can use, for example, pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as Eyraud's pumice 3 / B; crushed fruit kernel shells such as crushed apricot kernels or walnut shells; sawdust; glass beads; alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina) such as the product marketed under the name Dermagrain 900 by the company Marketech International; sugar crystals; beads that melt when applied to the skin, such as, for example, spheres based on mannitol and cellulose marketed under the name Unisphères by the company Induchem, capsules based on agar marketed under the name Primasponge by the company Cognis, and spheres based on jojoba esters marketed under the name Florasphères by the company Floratech; diatomaceous earth frustules such as those marketed by the company Alban Muller under the reference Diatami 60 / 200 microns.

[0103] The compositions according to the invention may include, in particular, skin cleansing or makeup removal products (body, face, eyes).

[0104] Another object of the invention is a method for cleansing or removing skin, including the scalp, and / or lips, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to said keratinous materials. According to a particular embodiment, it is a method for cleansing or removing makeup from the skin.

[0105] Another object of the invention consists in the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above, as cleaning and / or makeup removal products for keratinous materials.

[0106] The compositions according to the invention can also constitute a cosmetic composition particularly suitable for the care of oily skin and / or for disinfecting the skin, especially when they contain an antibacterial agent. In addition to salicylic acid and / or its derivatives, specific active ingredients for the care of oily skin may be included, such as: azelaic acid, triclosan, piroctone olamine, niacinamide (vitamin PP), zinc PCA, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] Another object of the invention is the use of the composition as defined above for the preparation of a composition intended for the care of oily skin and / or scalp.

[0108] Another object of the invention consists of a cosmetic process for cleaning keratinous materials, in which the composition of the invention is applied to the keratinous materials in the presence of water, and the foam formed and the dirt residues are removed by rinsing with water.

[0109] In the case of facial cleansing, the composition according to the invention can constitute a mask which is rinsed off after a setting time, for example of 1 to 3 minutes.

[0110] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0111] In this description of the invention, as in the examples, the quantities indicated are % by weight of active ingredient (AI). Furthermore, the expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ...", "at least ..." or "at most of" shall be understood inclusive of limits, unless otherwise specified. Compositions of rinse-off cleansing face masks

[0112] The compositions described in the following table were prepared by cold mixing all the listed ingredients.

[0113] It is understood that the contents indicated in the table correspond to the contents of active substance.

[0114] [Tables 1] Tests: Cp: Comparison outside the invention / Ex: Example according to the invention CpO Cpl Cp2 Cp3 Cp4 Ex5 WATER 64.52 63.82 63.79 63.35 63.32 63.43 KAOLIN 22.00 22.00 22.00 22.00 22.00 22.00 GLYCERIN 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 SODIUM LAURETH SUL FATE 3.22 3.22 3.22 3.22 3.22 3.22 SODIUM PHYTATE 0.05 0.05 PHYTIC ACID 0.08 TRISODIUM ETHYLENE DIAMINE DISUCCINATE 0.52 Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.55 Sodium Citrate 0.44 Salicylic Acid 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 Sodium Hydroxide 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Caprylyl Glycol 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Chlorphenesin 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 Color Stability (2 months at 25°C): OK: no color change / NOK: color change OK NOK Pink NOK Pink NOK Pink NOK Pink OK Conclusion

[0115] The Cpl test compared to CpO revealed a pinking problem occurring when kaolin and salicylic acid came into contact. The various chelating agents tested in the Cpl, Cp2, Cp3, and Cp4 tests were insufficient to overcome this problem. The Ex5 test, using a sodium salt of citric acid, preserved the initial color of the product and ensured long-term stability (for at least 2 months at 25°C) of the composition according to the invention.

[0116] This Ex5 composition was applied to the skin of the face and neck of 15 women aged 20 to 50 years to form a uniform film and was left on for 3 minutes, until a film was obtained. The mask was then rinsed off with water.

[0117] It has been observed that applying this mask is pleasant (soft, fresh, and comfortable). It provides a feeling of comfort during the application time and after rinsing. Finally, after using this mask, the skin is smooth, supple, clean, fresh, radiant, hydrated, and appears healthy after rinsing.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic aqueous composition, in particular for skin care, comprising at least: - a clay, - salicylic acid and / or a salicylic acid derivative selected from 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid or 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, - a sodium or potassium salt of citric acid, - an anionic surfactant, wherein the weight ratio of clay(s) to said surfactant(s) is greater than 2; and said anionic surfactant is selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, isethionates, amino acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said weight ratio is greater than 3, preferably greater than 4, preferably greater than 5.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the clay (or clays) is selected from the following clay families: clays of the smectite family, such as laponite and montmorillonite; of the kaolinite family, such as kaolinite, kaolin, dickite or nacrite, clays of the halloysite, donbassite, antigorite, benthierine or pyrophyllite family, montmorillonite, beidellite, vermiculite, talc, stevensite, hectorite, bentonite, saponite, chlorite, sepiolite and illite; preferably selected from kaolinite, kaolin, montmorillonite, saponite, laponite, bentonite, hectorite, stevensite and illite; preferably the clay(s) used being unmodified clay(s), preferably natural.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the clay(s) are advantageously present in a total weight content of 10 to 40%, preferably 15 to 30%, preferably 18 to 28% by weight, preferably 20 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the salicylic acid derivative is 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid).

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative is present in a total weight content of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% and better 0.1 to 2%, preferably 0.1 to 1.5%, preferably 0.1 to 1%, preferably 0.2 to 0.8%, by weight (of active material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said salt of citric acid is selected from: sodium citrate, tribasic sodium citrate, trisodium salt of citric acid, trisodium citrate, sodium citrate dihydrate, tribasic sodium citrate dihydrate, trisodium trisodium salt, trisodium citrate dihydrate, potassium citrate, tripotassium citrate, trisodium tripotassium citrate, trisodium trisotric citrate, trisodium tripotassium citrate monohydrate, disodium salt of citric acid, disodium salt of citric acid sesquihydrate, sodium hydrogecitrate, sodium hydrogen citrate sesquihydrate, disodium hydrogen citrate, disodium hydrogen citrate sesquihydrate, dibasic sodium citrate, dibasic sodium citrate sesquihydrate, monobasic potassium citrate, dihydrogenated potassium citrate, monopotassium salt of citric acid,Monobasic sodium citrate, sodium dihydrogen citrate, monosodium salt of citric acid.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the citric acid salt is present in a weight content of 0.05 to 5%, preferably 0.1 to 2%, preferably 0.2 to 1% by weight, on the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said anionic surfactant is selected from alkyl ether sulfates and more particularly sodium lauryl ether sulfate.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic surfactant(s) are present at concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight of active ingredient, of preferably 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one polyol having from 3 to 10 carbon atoms.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a rinse-off skin care mask, in particular a rinse-off skin cleansing mask.

13. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any of the preceding claims as a rinse-off skin care mask, in particular a rinse-off skin cleansing mask.

14. A cosmetic skin care method, in particular for cleansing the skin and more particularly the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising at least the steps of: i. Spreading and forming on the surface of the skin a film of a composition defined according to any one of claims 1 to 12; ii. Optionally, keeping said film on the surface of the skin for a contact time of at least one minute, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes, preferably until it dries; and iii. Removing said film, in particular by rinsing, preferably with water.