TWO-PHASE COMPOSITION
A two-phase composition with fatty acid polyglyceryl esters and hydrophilic thickener transforms into a stable monophasic emulsion for cosmetic use, maintaining effective makeup removal and clean phase separation.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-03-27
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-27
AI Technical Summary
Existing two-phase compositions require mixing to form a monophasic emulsion for cosmetic application but lack stability in returning to a two-phase state, leading to potential phase separation during use and adherence to container walls.
A two-phase composition comprising an oily phase with specific fatty acid polyglyceryl esters and a hydrophilic thickener, which can transform into a stable monophasic emulsion for cosmetic use and revert to a two-phase state with clean phases upon separation.
The composition maintains a visually distinct two-phase appearance during storage and provides effective makeup removal capabilities while preventing phase separation during use, ensuring clean phase separation and reduced irritation.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: TWO-PHASE COMPOSITION technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a two-phase or biphasic composition which has two visually distinct phases and is capable of transforming into a monophasic composition which can transform again into a two-phase or biphasic composition. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Compositions having two visually distinct phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase, which are not emulsified into one another at rest, are generally called "two-phase" (or "biphasic") compositions. They differ from emulsions in that, at rest, the two phases are separate and form a single interface between the two phases, instead of forming multiple interfaces between a continuous phase and each of the discontinuous phases present in emulsions.
[0003] Such two-phase compositions have already been described, for example, in EP-A-370 856 and EP-A-603 080, in particular for removing makeup around the eyes.
[0004] During use, a two-phase composition requires mixing, such as stirring, to form a monophasic composition, such as a "temporary" emulsion, which is then applied to a keratinous substance such as the skin. This monophasic composition must provide targeted cosmetic effects such as good makeup removal capabilities.
[0005] On the other hand, after use, i.e., at rest, the single-phase composition must stably return to its initial state by transforming into a two-phase composition, which is known as "phase separation." It is preferable that the rate of phase separation be appropriate and that the two resulting phases be clean so that no droplets adhere to the wall of a container holding the composition after "phase separation."
[0006] Thus, there is a need for a two-phase or biphasic composition with two visually distinct phases that can be transformed into a monophasic composition upon mixing, in which the monophasic composition can offer good cosmetic effects such as good makeup removal capabilities, and can stably return to its initial state at an appropriate rate, i.e., a two-phase or biphasic composition with two clean, reformed phases. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0007] An objective of the present invention is to provide a two-phase composition which can be transformed into a single-phase composition upon mixing, in which the single-phase composition can offer good cosmetic properties such as good makeup removal capabilities, and can stably return at a suitable rate to a two-phase composition with two clean reformed phases.
[0008] The above objective can be achieved by a two-phase composition, comprising:
[0009] an oily phase comprising (a) at least one oil, and
[0010] an aqueous phase comprising:
[0011] (b) at least one hydrophilic thickener;
[0012] (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester in which the fatty acid fraction the fat content of this component comprises from 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms; and
[0013] (d) of water.
[0014] The composition according to the present invention can be transformed into a single-phase composition. The single-phase composition can be transformed into a two-phase composition.
[0015] The (a) oil may be selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, ether oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of volatile hydrocarbon oils, ether oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof, and more preferably isohexadecane, isododecane, dicaprylyl ether, isopropyl myristate and a mixture thereof.
[0016] The quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 6% to 70% by weight, preferably from 8% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0017] The (b) hydrophilic thickener can be chosen from (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses.
[0018] The (b) hydrophilic thickener can be selected from hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and mixtures thereof.
[0019] The quantity of the (b) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 0.4% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0020] The (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may comprise 2 to 6 polyglyceryl motifs, preferably 4 to 6 polyglyceryl motifs, and more preferably 5 to 6 polyglyceryl motifs.
[0021] The (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate and a mixture of these.
[0022] The quantity of the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0023] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0024] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition for skin and eyelashes.
[0025] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance, comprising:
[0026] mixing the composition according to the present invention to form a single-phase composition; and
[0027] the application of the monophasic composition on the keratinous substance. Best embodiment of the invention
[0028] After careful research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a two-phase composition which can be transformed into a monophasic composition by mixing when in use, in which the monophasic composition can offer good cosmetic effects such as good makeup removal ability, and can stably return at an appropriate rate to a two-phase composition with two clean reformed phases when not in use.
[0029] Thus, one aspect of the present invention relates to a two-phase composition comprising:
[0030] an oily phase comprising (a) at least one oil, and
[0031] an aqueous phase comprising:
[0032] (b) at least one hydrophilic thickener;
[0033] (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester in which the fatty acid fraction the fat content of this component comprises from 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms; and
[0034] (d) of water.
[0035] The composition according to the present invention comprises two visually distinct phases when not mixed. However, the composition according to the present The invention can be transformed into a single-phase composition when mixed. The single-phase composition, such as an emulsion, can offer good cosmetic effects, such as good makeup removal capabilities. The single-phase composition can stably revert to a two-phase composition at a suitable rate, with two clean, reformed phases.
[0036] The composition according to the present invention can be stable so that it can maintain an oily phase and an aqueous phase separately when not mixed. Therefore, the two-phase or biphasic appearance of the composition according to the present invention can be maintained during storage and similar to that of the composition according to the present invention.
[0037] In particular, the composition according to the present invention could be stable so that the appearance and / or odor of the composition could remain unchanged for a long period of time under various temperature and storage conditions. For example, the composition according to the present invention could be stable at lower or higher temperatures, with or without agitation. Consequently, the composition according to the present invention can be stored well, particularly at lower or higher temperatures, even during transport by motor vehicles which may cause vibrations and the like.
[0038] When used, the composition according to the present invention is mixed. The two phases in the composition according to the present invention are an oily phase comprising at least one oil and an aqueous phase comprising water. Therefore, when mixing the composition according to the present invention, one of the two phases can be dispersed in the other phase to form an O / W or W / O composition, such as an O / W or W / O emulsion, which is visually uniform or forms a single phase.
[0039] The composition according to the present invention can be easily mixed. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be mixed by stirring with the hands. After mixing the composition according to the present invention, the composition can form and maintain a single phase for a certain period of time without being mixed again.
[0040] According to the present invention, the monophasic composition formed by the two-phase composition can offer good cosmetic effects such as good makeup removal capabilities. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition, preferably as a cleansing cosmetic composition, and more preferably as a cleansing cosmetic composition for the skin and eyelashes.
[0041] Furthermore, the single-phase composition formed by the two-phase composition according to the present invention can slowly penetrate a porous substrate, such as a A cotton sheet is used to remove makeup. Slow penetration allows the monophasic formula to remain on the surface longer. Therefore, a greater quantity of the monophasic formula can contribute to better makeup removal.
[0042] Furthermore, the monophasic composition formed by the two-phase composition according to the present invention can be comfortable; for example, it is less irritating. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be, for example, gentle on the skin, particularly sensitive skin such as the skin around the eyes. Consequently, the composition according to the present invention can offer good cosmetic effects, such as good makeup removal capabilities, without discomfort.
[0043] If the two-phase composition according to the present invention is transparent before being mixed, the one-phase composition formed by mixing the two-phase composition may also be transparent.
[0044] The single-phase composition formed by the two-phase composition according to the present invention can stably revert to the two-phase composition again after a certain period of time, by causing phase separation to reform two visually distinct phases. If the rate of reversion is too rapid, phase separation may occur even during use, which could lead to the deterioration of the cosmetic effects of the present invention. According to the present invention, the rate of reversion can be relatively slow, which can therefore prevent phase separation during use. Consequently, the present invention can provide enhanced cosmetic effects.
[0045] According to the present invention, the two phases recovered can also be clean so that no droplet, which could be formed by one of the oily or aqueous phases in the other phase, can adhere to the wall of a container comprising the composition according to the present invention after phase separation.
[0046] The composition according to the present invention is useful, in particular, as a makeup remover, preferably as a makeup remover for keratin fibers, and more preferably as a makeup remover for eyelashes, i.e. a mascara.
[0047] The composition according to the present invention will be described in detail below.
[0048] [Composition]
[0049] (Oil)
[0050] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be identical or different.
[0051] The (a) oil forms the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0052] Here, “oil” refers to a fatty compound or a fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in Cosmetic oils can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0053] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture of these.
[0054] The oil can be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
[0055] Examples of vegetable oils include meadowfoam oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0056] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.
[0057] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.
[0058] As an example of ether oils, dicaprylyl ether can be cited.
[0059] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic monoacids or polyacids in Ci-C26 and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols in Ci-C26, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0060] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0061] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.
[0062] Esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols in C4-C26, can also be used.
[0063] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; trii-socetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; dii- diethylene glycol sononanoate.
[0064] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids, and preferably C2-C22, can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0065] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0066] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C3o and preferably in Ci2-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0067] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0068] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0069] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular mono-ooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0070] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0071] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0072] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl / caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0073] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (INCI name: Dimethicone), methyl-phenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0074] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from among liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0075] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0076] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0077] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:
[0078] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 with 5 silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecam ethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and their mixtures. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula: p D ~ D —D - D — CH I------------------------------j CHî j. i '• II with D*: """ ” O with D*: If "" O —
[0079] We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and te- tramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2',2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and
[0080] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 °C in accordance with ASTM 445 Annex C.
[0081] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.
[0082] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:
[0083] - Silbione® oils from ranges 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
[0084] - the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;
[0085] - oils from the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s; and
[0086] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0087] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.
[0088] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
[0089] The phenyl silicone oil can be selected from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:
[0090] in which
[0091] Ri at Rio are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, hydrocarbon-based radicals in Ci-C30, preferably CpC^ hydrocarbon-based radicals and more preferably Ci-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and
[0092] m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,
[0093] provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.
[0094] Examples that can be cited include products sold under the names following:
[0095] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range of Rhodia;
[0096] - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges of Rhodia;
[0097] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;
[0098] - silicones from the PK range of Bayer, such as product PK20;
[0099] - certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0100] As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to Rio are a methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=l in the formula above) is preferable.
[0101] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0102] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:
[0103] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, possibly cyclic. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and
[0104] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam^ and squalane.
[0105] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils may be cited, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer and mixtures thereof.
[0106] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.
[0107] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0108] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauric alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0109] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 alcohols, linear or branched, preferably from saturated C6-C30 alcohols, linear or branched, and more preferably from saturated Ci2-C20 alcohols, linear or branched.
[0110] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long, saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be chosen from any saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C2-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used preferentially. Any saturated C6-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used preferentially. Branched C6-C20 fatty alcohols may be used even more preferentially.
[0111] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, octyldodecanol and hexyldecanol may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.
[0112] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0113] The (a) oil may be selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, ether oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof. The (a) oil may preferably be selected from the group consisting of volatile hydrocarbon oils, ether oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof.
[0114] The volatile hydrocarbon oil may be selected from branched volatile C8-Ci6 hydrocarbon oils, preferably selected from the group consisting of iso-hexadecane, isodecane, isododecane and a mixture thereof.
[0115] It is preferable that the ether oils be non-volatile. The ether oil may be chosen from the dialkyl ethers represented by the following formula
[0116] R'-O-R2
[0117] in which
[0118] each of R1 and R2 independently designates a linear, branched or cyclic C4 24 alkyl group, preferably a C6 alkyl group, and more preferably a Cx alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical.
[0119] As linear alkyl groups, one may mention a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a hep-tadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group.
[0120] Examples of branched alkyl groups include 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, β-butyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, and a group l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, an l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and a 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.
[0121] As a cyclic alkyl group, mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.
[0122] It may be preferable that the ether oil be chosen from the group consisting of di-caprylyl ether, dicaprylic ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonyl phenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
[0123] It may be more preferable for the ether oil to be chosen from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, and mixtures thereof. Dicaprylyl ether may be preferable.
[0124] The ester oils may be selected from monoesters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols. Monoesters of linear saturated C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids and branched saturated C1-C10 aliphatic alcohols may be preferred.
[0125] It may be even more preferable that the ester oils be chosen from isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and a mixture of these.
[0126] In particular, it is preferable that the (a) oil be chosen from the group consisting of isohexadecane, isododecane, dicaprylyl ether, isopropyl myristate and a mixture of these.
[0127] The quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 6% by weight or more, preferably 8% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0128] The quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 60% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the quantity of the (a) oil is not zero.
[0129] The quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 6% to 70% by weight, preferably from 8% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0130] (Hydrophilic thickener)
[0131] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (b) at least one hydrophilic thickener. If two or more hydrophilic thickeners are used, they may be identical or different.
[0132] The (f) hydrophilic thickener can thicken the composition according to the present invention, by thickening the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0133] According to the present invention, the "hydrophilic thickener" can increase the viscosity of the first composition into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25 °C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or similar).
[0134] The (b) hydrophilic thickener(s) are preferably chosen from non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar motifs, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar motifs, associative thickening polymers, and mixtures of these compounds.
[0135] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "sugar motif" means an oxygen-carrying hydrocarbon compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms.
[0136] The sugar motifs may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.
[0137] The sugar motifs that can be included in the non-associative thickening polymers of the present invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
[0138] Thickening polymers containing sugar motifs, which may include in particular native gums such as:
[0139] a) tree or shrub exudates, comprising:
[0140] - gum arabic (a branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and of glucuronic acid);
[0141] - Ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose) and glucuronic acid);
[0142] - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);
[0143] - tragacanth gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, of xylose and arabinose);
[0144] b) gums derived from algae, including:
[0145] - agar-agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);
[0146] - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid);
[0147] - carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and sulfate) of anhydrogalactose);
[0148] c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including:
[0149] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0150] - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0151] - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
[0152] - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);
[0153] - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);
[0154] d) microbial gums, comprising:
[0155] - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);
[0156] - gellan gum (a partially acylated glucose polymer, rhamnose and of glucuronic acid);
[0157] - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);
[0158] e) plant extracts, including:
[0159] - cellulose (glucose polymer);
[0160] - starch (glucose polymer) and
[0161] - inulin.
[0162] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. Temperature can be cited as a physical treatment.
[0163] The chemical treatments that can be cited include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers that may be nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric.
[0164] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.
[0165] Non-ionic guar gums that can be used according to the present invention can be modified by (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C6.
[0166] Among the (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C6, examples include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0167] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.
[0168] The degree of hydroxyalkylation varies preferentially from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.
[0169] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
[0170] The botanical origin of the starch molecules that can be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from maize starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.
[0171] Starches can be modified chemically or physically, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.
[0172] Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferably be used, for example the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized cassava hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized cassava acetyl distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized maize distarch phosphate).
[0173] According to the present invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or Several cationic groups. Anionic and cationic groups may be bound to the same reactive site on the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferentially bound to the same reactive site. Anionic groups may be carboxylic, phosphate, or sulfate, preferentially carboxylic. Cationic groups may be primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amines.
[0174] Starch molecules can be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. Starch is preferentially derived from potato.
[0175] The non-associative thickening polymers of the present invention may be cellulose-based polymers not comprising a Cio-C3o fatty chain in their structure.
[0176] According to the present invention, the expression "cellulose-based polymer" means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.
[0177] Thus, the cellulose polymers that can be used according to the present invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.
[0178] Among these cellulose-based polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers.
[0179] Cellulose esters include mineral cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetobutyrates, acetopropionates and acetotrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic / mineral cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetobutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetopropionate sulfates. Examples of cellulose ester ethers include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
[0180] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C10-C30 fatty chain, i.e., which are non-associative, we can mention the (CrC4) alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses, for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical; the (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR supplied by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aqualon); the mixed (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl-(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical; hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Akzo Nobel's Bermocoll E 481 FQ) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
[0181] Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fat chain, (poly)carboxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts may be mentioned. By way of example, carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and their sodium salts, may be mentioned.
[0182] Among cationic cellulose ethers without a fat chain, cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer may be cited, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl celluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Commercial products corresponding to this definition are, more particularly, the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the National Starch company.
[0183] Among the non-associative thickening polymers not bearing sugar motifs that can be used according to the present invention, we can mention crosslinked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers, or ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers, alone or in mixtures.
[0184] A first family of non-associative thickening polymers that is suitable for use is represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
[0185] Among the homopolymers of this type, we can cite those crosslinked with an allylic alcohol ether from the sugar range, for example, the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VS A. These polymers bear the INCI name Carbomer.
[0186] Non-associative thickening polymers can also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as the polymer sold under the name Aqua SF1 by the company Noveon.
[0187] Non-associative thickening polymers can be selected from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers.
[0188] Among the partially or totally neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide, particular mention may be made of the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853, and reference may be made to said document concerning these polymers.
[0189] The composition may also include, as non-thickening polymers associative, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers.
[0190] Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers that may be cited is the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by Hoechst. Among the ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers that may be cited is the product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 sold by Hoechst. Reference may be made, in particular, to FR 2 416 723, US 2,798,053 and US 2,923,692 for the description and preparation of these compounds.
[0191] Cationic thickening polymers of the acrylic type can also be used.
[0192] Among hydrophilic thickening polymers, associative polymers, which are well known to those skilled in the art, can also be mentioned, particularly those of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.
[0193] It is recalled that associative polymers are polymers capable, in aqueous media, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.
[0194] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.
[0195] The term "hydrophobic group" means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0196] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also designate a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for example, polybutadiene.
[0197] Examples of anionic-type associative polymers include:
[0198] - (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif and at least one allyl ether motif fatty chain, more particularly those whose hydrophilic motif consists of an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.
[0199] Among the anionic associative polymers, those which are particularly preferred according to the present invention are polymers formed of 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, 2% to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether, and 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, for example, diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
[0200] Among these latter polymers, those which are most particularly preferred are the crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and stearyl alcohol ether of polyethylene glycol (10 OE) (Steareth-10), in particular those sold by the company CIBA under the names Salcare SC80® and Salcare SC90®, which are aqueous emulsions of 30% of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).
[0201] - (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic motif of the carboxylic acid type unsaturated olefinic, and ii) at least one hydrophobic motif of the alkyl ester (in Cio-C3o) of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
[0202] Alkyl esters (in C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids which are useful in the present invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
[0203] Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to US patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.
[0204] Among the anionic associative polymers of this type, particular use will be made of those consisting of 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 4% to 40% by weight of alkyl acrylate in Ci0-C30 (hydrophobic motif), and 0 to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or alternatively those consisting of 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 1% to 4% by weight of alkyl acrylate in Ci0-C30 (hydrophobic motif) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer such as those described above.
[0205] Among the above-mentioned polymers, those which are particularly preferred according to the present invention are the products sold by the Goodrich company under the trade names Pemulen TRI®, Pemulen TR2®, Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferably Pemulen TRI®, and the product sold by the SEPPIC company under the name Coatex SX®.
[0206] We can also mention the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP;
[0207] - (c) maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, such that the product (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608® by the company Newphase Technologies.
[0208] - d) acrylic terpolymers comprising:
[0209] i) about 20% to 70% by weight of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [α],
[0210] ii) approximately 20% to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant monomer a,p-monoethylenically unsaturated other than [A],
[0211] iii) approximately 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate,
[0212] such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109 and more particularly the terpolymer described in Example 3, namely a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / behenyl alcohol terpolymer dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated (40 OE) in the form of a 25% aqueous dispersion;
[0213] - (e) copolymers comprising among their monomers a carboxylic acid a,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated and an ester of a carboxylic acid a,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.
[0214] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as a monomer an ester of α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and a C1-C4 alcohol.
[0215] An example of a compound of this type which may be cited is Aculyn 22® sold by Rohm & Haas, which is a terpolymer of oxyalkylated methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate; and also Aculyn 88, also sold by Rohm & Haas.
[0216] - (f) amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated polymers bearing a sulfonic acid group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized, and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion. These polymers may be crosslinked or uncrosslinked. They are preferentially crosslinked.
[0217] Ethylenely unsaturated monomers bearing a sulfonic group are in particular selected from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(Cr C22 )alkyl(meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or totally neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.
[0218] (Method)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for example acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or totally neutralized forms, shall be used more preferably.
[0219] 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), as well as its partially or totally neutralized forms, will be used in particular.
[0220] Polymers of this family may be selected in particular from statistically modified amphiphilic AMPS polymers by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154. These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers selected, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, their alkyl [3-substituted] derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinyl-pyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0221] Preferred polymers of this family are chosen from among amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.
[0222] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, their alkyl [3-substituted] derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyr-rolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0223] These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 750 899, US patent 5 089 578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:
[0224] - Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, no. 40, (2000), 323-336;
[0225] - Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10, 3694-3704;
[0226] - Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: known effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, no. 12, 5324-5332;
[0227] - Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221.
[0228] Among these polymers, we can mention:
[0229] - crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers, comprising 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS motifs and 40% to 85% by weight of (C8-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylamide or (C8-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylate motifs relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A750 899;
[0230] - terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of motifs acrylamide, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS motifs and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6-Ci8)alkylacrylamide motifs, such as those described in US patent 5,089,578.
[0231] We may also mention copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, as well as crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.
[0232] Among cationic associative polymers, we can mention:
[0233] (a) associative cationic polyurethanes;
[0234] (b) the compound sold by Noveon under the name Aqua CC and which corresponds in the name INCI Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.
[0235] The crosslinked polyacrylate-1 polymer is the product of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:
[0236] - a di(Ci-C4 alkyl)amino(Ci-C6 alkyl) methacrylate,
[0237] - one or more Ci-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid,
[0238] - a polyethoxylated Ci0-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20 to 25 moles of oxide motifs ethylene),
[0239] - a 30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / allyl ether of polypropylene glycol,
[0240] - a C2-C6 alkyl hydroxy(hydroxy) methacrylate, and
[0241] - ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
[0242] (c) the modified quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, or al-kylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals present in the quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses mentioned above preferentially comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferentially refer to phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B® (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C[8] alkyl) sold by Aqualon, and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C[8] alkyl) sold by Croda and the product Softcat SL 100® sold by Aqualon;
[0243] (d) cationic polyvinyllactam polymers.
[0244] These polymers are described, for example, in patent application WO-00 / 68282.
[0245] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers that can be used for the present invention, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacryl-amidopro- terpolymers In particular, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropyl-lammonium terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate terpolymers, or lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropyl-lammonium chloride are used.
[0246] Amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic motif. More particularly, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 1.5 to 15 mol%, and even more particularly 1.5 to 6 mol% of fatty chain monomer relative to the total number of moles of monomers are preferred.
[0247] Amphoteric associative polymers which can be used for the present invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98 / 44012.
[0248] Among the amphoteric associative polymers that can be used for the present invention, those that are preferred are acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.
[0249] The non-ionic associative polymers that can be used for the present invention are preferably chosen from:
[0250] (a) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic chain monomers Grasse, examples of which that can be cited include:
[0251] - the products Antaron V216® or Ganex V216® (vinylpyrrolidone copolymer / hexadecene), sold by the company ISP,
[0252] - the products Antaron V220® or Ganex V220® (vinylpyrrolidone copolymer / eicosene), sold by the company ISP,
[0253] (b) Copolymers of methyl acrylates or alkyl acrylates in C1-C6 and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the Goldschmidt company under the name ANTIL 208®;
[0254] (c) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hy monomers drophobes comprising at least one fatty chain, for example polyethylene glycol / lauryl methacrylate copolymer,
[0255] (d) Polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hy blocks Drophiles usually of a polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences;
[0256] (e) polymers with an aminoplastic ether backbone containing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix® compounds sold by the company Sud-Chemie;
[0257] (f) celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof in which the alkyl groups are at C8, and in particular:
[0258] * non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as Natrosol Plus products Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 (alkyl in Ci6) sold by the company Aqualon;
[0259] * non-ionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the Amercell product HM-1500 sold by the company Amerchol;
[0260] * non-ionic alkylcelluloses such as the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel;
[0261] (g) associative guar derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl guars modified by a fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (modified by a C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti; the product Miracare XC 95-3 (modified by a CM alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by a C2o alkyl chain) sold by Rhodia Chimie.
[0262] Preferably, the polyether polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block. The hydrocarbon-based chains may be side chains or chains at the ends of the hydrophilic block. In particular, one or more side chains may be envisaged. Furthermore, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilic block.
[0263] Polyurethane polyethers can be multiblock, particularly in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (e.g., a triblock copolymer with a central hydrophilic block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (e.g., a multiblock copolymer). These same polymers can also be grafted polymers or star polymers.
[0264] Nonionic fatty chain polyether polyurethanes can be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. Nonionic polyether polyurethanes include a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.
[0265] By extension, also included among non-ionic fat-chain polyether polyurethanes are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
[0266] By way of examples of nonionic fat chain polyether polyurethanes which may be used for the present invention, Rheolate 205® bearing a urea function, sold by the Rheox company, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®, may also be used.
[0267] Another example is the product Elfacos T210® bearing a C12-C alkyl chain. 14, and the Elfacos T212® product bearing a C[8] alkyl chain from Akzo.
[0268] Rohm & Haas product DW 1206B® bearing a C2o alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a dry matter content of 20% in water, can also be used.
[0269] Solutions or dispersions of these polymers can also be used, particularly in water or in aqueous-alcoholic media. Examples of such polymers include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278, and Rheolate® 244, sold by Rheox. DW 1206F and DW 1206J, sold by Rohm & Haas, can also be used.
[0270] Polyurethane polyethers that can be used for the present invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloidal Polymer Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).
[0271] It is even more particularly preferred to use a polyether polyurethane which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
[0272] These polyurethane polyethers are sold in particular by Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
[0273] It is preferable that the (b) hydrophilic thickener be chosen from (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, preferably chosen from hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and mixtures thereof, and most preferably is hydroxyethylcellulose.
[0274] The quantity of (b) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0275] The quantity of the (b) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.4% by weight or less, preferably 0.3% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.2% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the quantity of the (a) oil is not zero.
[0276] If the quantity of (b) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the The present invention is limited to 0.4% by weight or less, preferably 0.3% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.2% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, the stability of the composition can be further enhanced, and / or the composition after being mixed can reform by phase separation into two cleaner phases, and / or the rate of phase separation may not be too slow.
[0277] The quantity of the (b) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 0.4% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0278] (Fatty acid polyglyceryl ester)
[0279] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester in which the fatty acid fraction thereof comprises from 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms (hereinafter referred to simply as a "fatty acid polyglyceryl ester"). If two or more (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are used, they may be identical or different.
[0280] If the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has a single fatty acid fraction, the fatty acid fraction comprises from 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0281] If the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has a plurality of fatty acid fractions, each of the fatty acid fractions comprises from 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0282] In other words, the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester does not contain any fatty acid fraction derived from long-chain fatty acids having more than 14 carbon atoms.
[0283] The (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be selected from mono, di and tri esters of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, preferably of saturated fatty acids, comprising from 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as myristic acid, lauric acid, capric acid, and caprylic acid.
[0284] It is preferable that the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester have a polyglycerol fraction derived from 2 to 6 glycerols, more preferably from 4 to 6 glycerols, and even more preferably from 5 or 6 glycerols. In other words, it is preferable that the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprise 2 to 6 polyglyceryl units, more preferably 4 to 6 polyglyceryl units, and even more preferably 5 or 6 polyglyceryl units.
[0285] In the composition according to the present invention, the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is present in the aqueous phase. Therefore, the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is relatively hydrophilic.
[0286] Thus, the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic equilibrium) value of 8.0 or more, preferably 9.0 or more, and more preferably 10.0 or more and / or 17.0 or less, preferably 16.0 or less, and more preferably 15.0 or less. If two or more fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the fatty acid polyglyceryl esters.
[0287] The term HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic equilibrium) is well known to those skilled in the art and describes the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the molecule. HLB values can be calculated using the formula HLB = 20*(1S / A), where S is the saponification value of the ester and A is the neutralization value of the fatty acid.
[0288] The (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl monoesters.
[0289] The fatty acid polyglyceryl monoester may have an HLB value of 8.0 to 17.0, preferably of 9.0 to 16.0, and more preferably of 10.0 to 15.0. If two or more fatty acid polyglyceryl monoesters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the fatty acid polyglyceryl monoesters.
[0290] The fatty acid polyglyceryl monoester may be selected from the group consisting of PG4 laurate (HLB: 10.3), PG5 laurate (HLB: 10.5), PG4 caprylate (HLB: 14), PG4 caprate (HLB: about 15), PG5 myristate (HLB: 15.4), PG5 oleate (HLB: 12.2), PG6 caprylate (HLB: 14.6), PG6 caprate (HLB: 13.1), PG6 laurate (HLB: 14.1), and mixtures thereof.
[0291] As a PG6 caprylate, for example, SunSoft Q-8H-C marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Co. Ltd. may be used.
[0292] It is preferable that the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester be chosen from fatty acid polyglyceryl diesters.
[0293] The fatty acid polyglyceryl diester may have an HLB value of 8.0 to 17.0, preferably of 9.0 to 16.0, and more preferably of 10.0 to 15.0. If two or more fatty acid polyglyceryl diesters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the fatty acid polyglyceryl diesters.
[0294] The fatty acid polyglyceryl diester may be PG-6 dicaprylate (HLB: 13-15), PG-6 dicaprate (HLB: 10.2), and mixtures thereof.
[0295] As a dicaprate of PG6, for example, SunSoft Q-102H-C marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. may be used.
[0296] It is possible to use a mixture of at least two fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, preferably chosen from fatty acid polyglyceryl mono and diesters, and more preferably a mixture of polyglyceryl-6 caprylate and polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate.
[0297] It is preferable that the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprise 2 to 6 polyglyceryl motifs, preferably 4 to 6 polyglyceryl motifs, and more preferably 5 or 6 polyglyceryl motifs.
[0298] It is more preferable that the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester be selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate and a mixture of these.
[0299] The amount of the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0300] The amount of the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition, provided that the amount of the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is not zero.
[0301] The quantity of the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0302] (Water)
[0303] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.
[0304] (d) Water can form an aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0305] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0306] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 70% by weight or less, and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the quantity of (d) water is not zero.
[0307] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention can range from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0308] (Aromatic ketone compound)
[0309] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one aromatic ketone compound. If two (c) or more aromatic ketone compounds are used, they may be identical or different.
[0310] The (b) aromatic ketone compound is represented by the following chemical formula (I)
[0311] in which
[0312] R5, R6 and R7, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom, a group hydroxyl, a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C1-C6 alkoxy group, provided that at least one of the R5, R6 and R7 groups represents a hydroxyl group, and
[0313] R represents a Ci-C6 alkyl group or an aryl group.
[0314] Examples of alkyl groups in Ci-C6 include a methyl group, an ethyl group, and a propyl group. A methyl group is preferable.
[0315] Examples of alkoxy groups in Ci-C6 include a methoxy group, an ethoxy group, and a propoxy group. A methoxy group is preferable.
[0316] Examples of aryl groups include, for instance, a phenyl group, a substituted phenyl group, a naphthyl group, and a substituted naphthyl group. Examples of substituents include a hydroxyl group and a C1-C6 alkyl group such as a methyl group. A phenyl group is preferred.
[0317] It is preferable that the R in the chemical formula (I) above represent a methyl group, an ethyl group or a phenyl group, preferably a methyl group or a phenyl group, and more preferably a methyl group.
[0318] As an example of an aromatic ketone compound, one may cite, for example,
[0319] 2-hydroxyacetophenone,
[0320] 3-hydroxyacetophenone,
[0321] 4-hydroxyacetophenone,
[0322] 2,5-dihydroxyacetophenone,
[0323] 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone,
[0324] 4-hydroxy-3-methoxyacetophenone,
[0325] 3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone,
[0326] 2',2'-dihydroxybenzophenone,
[0327] 2-hydroxybenzophenone,
[0328] 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, and
[0329] 3,4,2',4',6'-pentahydroxybenzophenone.
[0330] It is preferable that the (e) aromatic ketone compound be hydroxyacetophenone, more preferably monohydroxyacetophenone, and even more preferably 4-hydroxyacetophenone.
[0331] The amount of (e) aromatic ketone compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0332] The quantity of (e) aromatic ketone compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition, provided that the quantity of (e) aromatic ketone compound is not zero.
[0333] The quantity of the (e) aromatic ketone compound in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0334] (Polyhydroxyacid)
[0335] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one polyhydroxy acid or a salt thereof. If two or more polyhydroxy acids or salts thereof are used, they may be identical or different.
[0336] The term "polyhydroxy acid" used herein refers to an organic compound that has at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxyl groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and a single carboxyl group is preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but 2 to 10 are preferable, and 2 to 6 are more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 are preferable, and 3 to 8 are more preferable.
[0337] The above organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be chosen from aliphatic or aromatic polyhydroxy acids. Preferably, the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid should be chosen from sugar acids.
[0338] Examples of polyhydroxy acids include dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0339] It is preferable that the (f) polyhydroxy acid be in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring of the (f) polyhydroxy acid in the form of a lactone can be saturated. Examples of (f) polyhydroxy acids include gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.
[0340] It is preferable that the (f) polyhydroxy acid be gluconolactone.
[0341] The type of salt is not limited. Examples of salts include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt, and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. Sodium salt is preferred. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.
[0342] The amount of the (f) polyhydroxyacid(s) or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0343] The quantity of the (f) polyhydroxyacid(s) or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition, provided that the quantity of the (f) polyhydroxyacid(s) or of one or more salts thereof is not zero.
[0344] The quantity of the (f) polyhydroxyacid(s) or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0345] (Citric acid ester)
[0346] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one citric acid ester. If two or more citric acid esters are used, they may be identical or different.
[0347] The (g) citric acid ester can be represented by the following chemical formula (I): CH2C(O)—OR, ® R4O—CHC(O) -— ORj CH2C(O)-“OR3
[0348] in which
[0349] Rb R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched Ci-C3O hydrocarbon group, or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic C3-C3O hydrocarbon group, in which at least one of Rb R2 and R3 is not a hydrogen atom, and
[0350] R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an R'4-CO- group in which R'4 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched CrC8 hydrocarbon group, or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic C3-C8 hydrocarbon group.
[0351] Preferably RB R2 and R3 are all a saturated or unsaturated CrC3o hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic C3-C30 hydrocarbon group, more preferably a saturated or unsaturated CrC3o hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, and even more preferably a linear or branched Ci-C30 alkyl group.
[0352] Preferably Ri is a hydrogen atom or an R'4-CO- group in which R'4 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched in Ci-C8, more preferably a hydrogen atom or an R'4-CO- group in which R'4 represents a linear or branched Ci-C8 alkyl group, and even more preferably a hydrogen atom or an R'4-CO- group in which R'4 represents a methyl group.
[0353] It may be preferable that the (g) citric acid ester be chosen from the group consisting of triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, triethyl acetylcitrate, tributyl acetylcitrate, tri(2-ethylhexyl) acetylcitrate, and a mixture thereof, more preferably the group consisting of triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, triethyl acetylcitrate, tributyl acetylcitrate, and a mixture thereof, and even more preferably ethyl citrate.
[0354] The quantity of the (g) citric acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0355] The quantity of the (g) citric acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the quantity of the (g) citric acid ester is not zero.
[0356] The quantity of the (g) citric acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0357] (Cosmetic active ingredient)
[0358] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient. Only one type of cosmetic active ingredient may be used, but two or more different types of cosmetic active ingredient may be used in combination.
[0359] The cosmetic active ingredient may preferably be insoluble in water or in oil.
[0360] The quantity of the cosmetic active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0361] The quantity of the cosmetic active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the quantity of the cosmetic active ingredient is not zero.
[0362] The quantity of the cosmetic active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0363] (Surfactant)
[0364] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one additional surfactant that is different from (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester. If two or more additional surfactants are used, they may be identical or different.
[0365] However, it may be preferable for the amount of additional surfactant to be small.
[0366] The amount of additional surfactant may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention. In particular, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention not include any additional surfactant.
[0367] (Other ingredients)
[0368] The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.
[0369] The quantity of the optional or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0370] The optional or additional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers; organic or inorganic UV filters; peptides and their derivatives; protein hydrolysates; swelling agents; penetrating agents; thickeners; suspending agents; sequestering agents; opacifying agents; dyes; vitamins or provitamins; perfumes; preservatives, co-preservatives, stabilizers and mixtures thereof.
[0371] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol; other polyols such as glycerol, sugar and sugar alcohols; and ethers such as monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, mono-nomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of propylene glycol, and monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of butylene glycol.
[0372] The organic solvent(s) may be present in a concentration of 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0373] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be regulated. The pH can be, for example, from 3 to 11, preferably from 3.5 to 9, and more preferably from 4 to 7. The pH can be adjusted to the desired value by using at least one acidifying agent and / or at least one alkalizing agent.
[0374] Acidifying agents may be, for example, mineral or organic acids, for example hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acid, for example tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or sulfonic acids.
[0375] The alkalizing agent may be, for example, ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal hydroxide, alkaline earth metal hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, and triethanolamines, and also their derivatives, preferably sodium or potassium hydroxide and compounds of the formula below: R1
[0376] in which
[0377] R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a Ci-C4 alkyl radical, and R2, R3 and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a CrC4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives. Arginine, urea and mono- Ethanolamine may be preferable.
[0378] The acidifying or alkalizing agent may be present in an amount ranging from less than 5% by weight, preferably 1% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0379] (Form)
[0380] The composition according to the present invention may have two visually distinct phases. One of the two phases is an oily phase and the other is an aqueous phase.
[0381] The quantity of the oily phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 8% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, and more preferably 12% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0382] The quantity of the oily phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 70% by weight or less and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the quantity of the oily phase is not zero.
[0383] The quantity of the oily phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 8% to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 12% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0384] The oily phase comprises (a) at least one oil as explained above.
[0385] The quantity of (a) at least one oil in the oily phase may be 75% by weight or more, preferably 80% by weight or more, and more preferably 85% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
[0386] The quantity of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0387] The quantity of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less and more preferably 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the quantity of the oily phase is not zero.
[0388] The quantity of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 30% to 90% by weight, preferably from 40% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0389] The aqueous phase comprises (b) at least one hydrophilic thickener, (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester and (d) water.
[0390] The quantity of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 85% by weight or more, preferably 90% by weight or more, and more preferably 95% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
[0391] Furthermore, the aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic ingredient complementary. In one embodiment, the aqueous phase may include at least one pH adjuster such as an acid and a base, and / or at least one organic solvent such as a diol.
[0392] The composition according to the present invention can be transformed into a single-phase composition when mixed. The composition according to the present invention after mixing can be of the O / W or W / H type, preferably in the form of an O / W or W / H liquid composition, and more preferably in the form of an O / W or W / H emulsion.
[0393] If the density of the oily phase is less than that of the aqueous phase, the oily phase is present on the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention. Typically, the oily phase is present on the aqueous phase at rest, because the density of oil tends to be less than that of water.
[0394] [Preparation]
[0395] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by:
[0396] the formation of an oily phase by supplying (a) at least one oil or mixture (a) of at least one oil and other ingredients for the oily phase;
[0397] the formation of an aqueous phase by mixing (b) at least one hydrophilic thickener, (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester, wherein the fatty acid fraction thereof comprises from 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and (d) water, for the aqueous phase; and
[0398] the combination of the oily phase and the aqueous phase.
[0399] For example, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared by the process comprising:
[0400] (i) the supply or the mixture
[0401] (a) of at least one oil
[0402] with at least one optional ingredient to form an oily phase;
[0403] (ii) the mixture
[0404] (b) of at least one hydrophilic thickener;
[0405] (c) of at least one polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid in which the fatty acid fraction the fat content of this component comprises from 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms; and
[0406] (d) water
[0407] with at least one optional ingredient to form an aqueous phase; and
[0408] (iii) the combination of the oily phase and the aqueous phase.
[0409] The mixing step can be carried out by any conventional means.
[0410] It is preferable that the step of combining the oily phase and the aqueous phase be carried out gently so that the oily phase and the aqueous phase be poured slowly into a container such as a receptacle.
[0411] [Use and method]
[0412] When using the composition according to the present invention, it will be mixed, for example, by shaking with the hands (manual shaking). After mixing the composition according to the present invention, the composition can form a monophasic composition. The monophasic composition can be applied to a keratinous substance to produce targeted cosmetic effects.
[0413] Keratinous substance can be skin, nails, mucous membranes such as lips, or keratinous fibers such as eyebrows and eyelashes.
[0414] The composition according to the present invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic composition, more preferably as a cleansing cosmetic composition, and even more preferably as a cleansing cosmetic composition for skin and eyelashes.
[0415] The term "skin" here encompasses the skin of the face, the skin of the neck, and the scalp. The composition according to the present invention can also be used for mucous membranes such as the lips.
[0416] The composition according to the present invention can offer cosmetic effects such as makeup removal.
[0417] The composition according to the present invention is comfortable because it is less irritating, and is gentle on the skin, especially sensitive skin such as the skin around the eyes.
[0418] The composition according to the present invention could also offer a good texture such as a smooth feeling to the touch, and consequently, it could offer a smooth finish for the skin.
[0419] The composition according to the present invention can be used as is (as a topical product), or can be used by being impregnated in a porous substrate such as a non-woven fabric preferably made from cellulose fibers such as cotton.
[0420] In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance such as skin, lips, eyebrows, and eyelashes. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process on a keratinous substance such as skin, lips, eyebrows, and eyelashes, preferably skin and eyelashes.
[0421] The composition according to the present invention can be used for the care or cleansing, but not for the makeup, of a keratinous substance. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is used for skin care products such as lotions or cleansing products such as makeup removers, and not for makeup products such as foundation. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not comprise iron oxide, or comprises iron oxide in an amount of 0.5% by weight or less, preferably 0.2% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0422] The cosmetic process for a keratinous substance according to the present invention may include, at least, the steps of
[0423] mixing the composition according to the present invention to form a single-phase composition; and
[0424] application of the monophasic composition on the keratinous substance.
[0425] A single-phase composition does not have two visually distinct phases. Instead, a single-phase composition has a single phase, which is usually an emulsion phase. The emulsion phase may not be transparent, but it may be translucent or opaque.
[0426] The present invention may relate to the use
[0427] (b) of at least one hydrophilic thickener;
[0428] in a two-phase composition comprising:
[0429] an aqueous phase comprising (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester wherein the fatty acid fraction thereof comprises from 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and (d) water, and
[0430] an oily phase comprising (a) oil,
[0431] in order to enhance the makeup removal capacity of the composition and / or in order to slow down the penetration of the composition into a porous substrate.
[0432] The present invention may also relate to the use
[0433] (c) of at least one polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid in which the fatty acid fraction the fat content of this component comprises 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms,
[0434] in a two-phase composition comprising:
[0435] an aqueous phase comprising (b) at least one hydrophilic thickener and (d) water, and
[0436] an oily phase comprising (a) oil,
[0437] in order to stabilize the composition and / or to slow down phase separation after mixing of the two-phase composition and / or to cause the composition to reform an oily phase and an aqueous phase without forming droplets in one or both phases after mixing of the two-phase composition. EXAMPLES
[0438] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations within the scope of the present invention.
[0439] [Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3]
[0440] The following compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 as follows.
[0441] (1) mixture of the ingredients of the oil phase preparation (Preparation OP in Table 1) at approximately 25°C to form a uniform mixture of the oil phase ingredients;
[0442] (2) mixing of the ingredients of the aqueous phase preparation (AP Preparation in Table 1) at approximately 60 °C to form a uniform mixture of the aqueous phase ingredients; and
[0443] (3) pouring the above into a package in the order of mixing the ingredients aqueous phase ingredients, then the mixture of oil phase ingredients.
[0444] The weight ratio of the mixture Oil phase preparation: Water phase preparation is shown in "OP / AP weight ratio" in Table 1.
[0445] It should be noted that "hydroxyacetophenone" means 4-hydroxyacetophenone.
[0446] The numerical values of the quantities of ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on the "% by weight" as active raw materials.
[0447] [Tables 1] Preparation OP Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp .2 Ex. Comp . 3 Isohexadecane 23.92 23.92 23.92 23.92 23.92 5.21 23.92 23.92 5.21 Isododecane 13.08 13.08 13.08 13.08 13.08 3.75 13.08 13.08 3.75 Dicapryl ether 4.84 4.84 4.84 4.84 4.84 1.65 4.84 4.84 1.65 Isopropyl myristate 0.87 0.87 0.87 0.87 0.87 2.39 0.87 0.87 2.39 Triethyl citrate 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Preparation AP Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.043 0.10 0.017 0.043 0.043 0.064 - 0.043 - PG-6 Dicaprate 0.02 0.02 0.02 - 0.02 0.03 0.02 - 0.03 PG-6 Caprylate 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 - 0.03 0.02 - 0.03 Gluconolactone 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.04 0.03 0.03 0.04 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.01 0.04 0.04 0.06 Myrtrimonium bromide 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.06 0.03 0.03 0.06 Citric acid 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.07 0.05 0.05 0.07 Sodium citrate 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.31 0.20 0.20 0.31 Sodium chloride 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.38 0.25 0.25 0.38 Panthenol 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 - 0.03 0.03 - Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 OP / AP weight ratio 44.7 / 55.3 44.7 / 55.3 44.7 / 55.3 44.7 / 55.3 44.7 / 55.3 15 / 85 44.7 / 55.3 44.7 / 55.3 15 / 85 Waterproof mascara removal capacity 87.9% 87.5% 82.7% 87.5% 87.6% 63.5% 68.0% 86.1% 43.1% Latex mascara removal capacity 72.4% 72.5% 715% - - 75.8% 42.2% 73.8% 44.8% Cotton penetration time 12.1 s 20.8 s 9.3 s - - 16.5 s 3.3 s 12.8 s 2.1 s Separation speed Moderate Moderate Moderate Slow Moderate Moderate Light Rapid Moderate Rapid recovery stability: Very Good, Very Very Good, Very Very Bad, Very good, ...
[0448] OP: Oily phase
[0449] AP: Aqueous phase
[0450] PG-6 Dicaprate Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate
[0451] PG-6 Caprylate Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
[0452] [Evaluation]
[0453] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were evaluated as follows.
[0454] (Waterproof mascara removal capability)
[0455] A waterproof mascara product (MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Volum'Express Hypercurl Waterproof N 01 Black) was applied to the false eyelashes using a brush in a total of 30 strokes (each time, the brush was dipped into a bottle containing the mascara product). Five minutes later, the above application with 30 strokes was repeated. The mascara on the false eyelashes was then dried at 40°C for 30 minutes. The weight of the false eyelashes with the mascara was measured. The weight of the mascara applied to the false eyelashes was determined by subtracting the weight of the false eyelashes with the mascara from the weight of the original eyelashes without the mascara.
[0456] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was shaken to form an emulsion. 4 ml of emulsion were absorbed by 1 g of a cotton sheet. The cotton sheet was applied to the false eyelashes and moved along them to remove the mascara using an instrument (Tribo-Master TL201Sa) under the following conditions:
[0457] Load: 450 g,
[0458] Displacement distance: 30 mm,
[0459] Speed: 1200 mm / minute, and
[0460] Number of repetitions: 40.
[0461] The false eyelashes were dried and their weight was measured. The amount of mascara removed was determined by subtracting the weight of the false eyelashes after the above removal operation from the weight of the false eyelashes with mascara before the above removal operation.
[0462] The elimination capacity (%) was calculated using the following formula:
[0463] the weight of mascara removed / the weight of mascara applied x 100
[0464] The results are shown in the row "Waterproof mascara removal capability" in Table 1.
[0465] (Latex mascara removal capability)
[0466] The above protocol for the above waterproof mascara product was repeated provided that the waterproof mascara was replaced by a latex mascara (MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Lashionista Care+).
[0467] The results are shown in the row "Latex mascara removal capacity" in Table 1.
[0468] (Cotton penetration time)
[0469] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was shaken to form an emulsion. 1 ml of emulsion was absorbed by 1 g of a cotton sheet. The time (seconds) required for complete absorption of the emulsion by the cotton sheet was measured using a Keyence videomicroscope (VHX-5000).
[0470] The results are shown in the row "Cotton penetration time" in Table 1.
[0471] (Separation speed)
[0472] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was shaken in a transparent glass container to form an emulsion. The rate at which the emulsion reformed into two phases was measured and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0473] Fast: Less than 1 minute
[0474] Slightly fast: More than 1 minute, less than 5 minutes
[0475] Moderate More than 5 minutes, less than 30 minutes
[0476] Slow: More than 30 minutes
[0477] The results are shown in the row "Separation speed" in Table 1.
[0478] (Recovery stability)
[0479] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was shaken in a transparent glass container to form an emulsion. After 6 hours, the appearance of the oily and aqueous phases was observed visually and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0480] Very good: Both the oily and aqueous phases are transparent.
[0481] Good: The oily and aqueous phases are slightly translucent, but there is no emulsion phase between the oily and aqueous phases.
[0482] Bad: There is an emulsion phase between the oily and aqueous phases.
[0483] Very bad: There is an emulsion phase between the oily and aqueous phases.
[0484] The results are shown in the row "Recovery Stability" in Table 1.
[0485] (Droplets on the wall)
[0486] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was shaken in a transparent glass container to form an emulsion. The formation of droplets on the wall of the transparent glass container was observed visually and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[0487] Very good: No droplets are observed on the wall.
[0488] Good: A few droplets can be observed on the wall, but they are very few in number.
[0489] Bad: A few droplets can be observed on the wall, and they are numerous.
[0490] Very poor: Groups of droplets can be observed in density on the wall.
[0491] The results are shown in the line “Droplets on the wall” in Table 1.
[0492] (Summary)
[0493] Examples 1 to 5 should be compared with Comparative Examples 1 and 2. Example 6 should be compared with Comparative Example 3.
[0494] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 5, which included ingredient (b) (hydrophilic thickener), were able to remove both waterproof and non-waterproof makeup better than the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not include ingredient (b). A similar trend can be seen by comparing Example 6 with Comparative Example 3.
[0495] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 5 which included ingredient (c) (specific fatty acid polyglyceryl ester) were more stable and were able to return to a two-phase composition more slowly and with cleaner phases after mixing of the composition than the composition according to Comparative Example 2 which did not include ingredient (c).
Claims
Demands
1. Two-phase composition comprising an oily phase comprising (a) at least one oil, and an aqueous phase comprising: (b) at least one hydrophilic thickener; (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester selected from mixtures of polyglyceryl-6 caprylate and polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate; and (d) water.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is capable of transforming into a monophasic composition.
3. Composition according to claim 2, wherein the single-phase composition is capable of transforming into a two-phase composition.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein (a) oil is selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, ether oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of volatile hydrocarbon oils, ether oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof, and more preferably isohexadecane, isododecane, dicaprylyl ether, isopropyl myristate and a mixture thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) hydrophilic thickener is selected from the (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alky cellulose.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (b) hydrophilic thickener is selected from hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 2 to 6 polyglyceryl motifs, preferably 4 to 6 polyglyceryl motifs, and more preferably 5 or 6 polyglyceryl motifs.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition, preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition for skin and eyelashes.
9. A cosmetic process for a keratinous substance, comprising: mixing the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to form a monophasic composition; and applying the monophasic composition to the keratinous substance.