LIQUID COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICONE OILS, HYDROCARBON-BASED OILS, AND THEIR PROCESSES
The liquid cosmetic composition addresses the issues of traditional lipsticks by combining specific oils and a gelling agent, ensuring long-lasting, comfortable, and intense color retention on the lips.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2023-04-17
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-05
AI Technical Summary
Traditional liquid lipsticks are not long-lasting, often require frequent touch-ups, and can be sticky or drying, while long-lasting formulas compromise comfort and film durability.
A liquid cosmetic composition comprising non-volatile and volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, trimethylsiloxysilicate, and a lipophilic gelling agent, providing improved comfort and long-lasting wear.
The composition offers a comfortable, non-sticky, and non-drying sensation with enhanced lip comfort and long-lasting makeup effects, maintaining intense color for extended periods.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: LIQUID COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICONE OILS AND HYDROCARBON-BASED OILS, AND THEIR PROCESSES. FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] This disclosure relates, in general, to the field of cosmetic and personal care products and, in particular, to liquid cosmetic compositions for applying makeup to the skin or lips. This disclosure further relates to a method of applying makeup to the skin or lips. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Among the various cosmetic products, lipsticks are one of the most popular makeup items, perceived as providing the user with increased confidence and enhanced appearance. The formulations can be in various forms, from liquid to solid, such as sticks or those poured into pots. Traditional liquid lipsticks often require several applications throughout the day to compensate for their relatively short staying power. In addition to not being long-lasting, they also tend to transfer color, with the risk of leaving marks on glasses, cups, or even clothing. Therefore, some users prefer long-lasting lipsticks, which eliminate the need for frequent touch-ups.This type of lipstick, particularly liquid formulas, typically contains film-forming polymers and a significant amount of volatile oils, which ensure the film's durability on the lips. However, such long-lasting formulas have the drawback of being sticky and / or leaving a feeling of dryness or tightness on the lips. Consequently, such liquid formulas can be considered less comfortable than others. Some liquid lipsticks on the market use non-volatile oils and emollients to counteract the tightness and dryness and to further moisturize the lips. However, in many cases, the buildup of the cosmetic formula leaves a heavier, or even, in some cases, a cardboard-like feeling on the lips, and the film's durability can often be compromised.Thus, lipstick users are constantly searching for products that offer better makeup effects on the lips, combined with long-lasting and comfortable application.
[0003] Therefore, there is a need for an effective and stable liquid cosmetic composition with improved properties, in particular a composition that is long-lasting and comfortable to wear. Summary of the invention
[0004] One aspect of this disclosure proposes a liquid cosmetic composition for skin or lip makeup, the composition comprising: (a) a non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil in an amount of 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) a volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil in an amount of 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) a mixture of at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil, in which the volatile silicone oil is in an amount of 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and the non-volatile silicone oil is in an amount of 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (d) a trimethylsiloxysilicate; and (e) a lipophilic gelling agent.
[0005] Another aspect of this disclosure proposes a kit comprising (a) the composition as described herein; (b) a container; and (c) an applicator.
[0006] Another aspect of the present disclosure proposes a method for applying makeup to the skin or lips, comprising applying to said skin or lips the composition as described herein.
[0007] These features, aspects, and advantages, as well as others, of the present subject matter will be better understood by reference to the following description and the accompanying claims. This summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form. This summary is not intended to identify key features or essential features of the claimed subject matter, nor to be used to limit the scope of the claimed subject matter. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0008] The person skilled in the art will be aware that this disclosure is subject to variations and modifications other than those specifically described. It is understood that this disclosure includes all such variations and modifications. The disclosure also includes all such steps, features, compositions, and compounds designated or indicated in this specification, individually or collectively, and any combination thereof.
[0009] Definitions
[0010] For convenience, before describing this disclosure in more detail, certain terms used in the descriptive memorandum and examples are defined here. These definitions should be read in light of the rest of the disclosure and understood as by a person skilled in the art. The terms used herein have meanings recognized and known to persons skilled in the art; however, for For reasons of convenience and completeness, specific terms and their meanings are set out below.
[0011] The terms "include" and "comprising" are used in an inclusive and open sense, meaning that additional elements (or steps) may be included. They are not intended to be interpreted as "consisting solely of" or as excluding other elements or steps.
[0012] The term "including" is used to mean "including, but not limited to". "Including" and "including, but not limited to" are used interchangeably.
[0013] The term “INCI” is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to identify ingredients of cosmetic or personal care products.
[0014] The term “long-lasting,” as used herein, refers to its generally accepted meaning in the art. Generally, it designates the property of a composition indicating that the composition is retained on a surface, such as the lips or skin, after application, and that the color of the composition remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, for a prolonged period of time. Long-lasting properties can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, the long-lasting property can be evaluated by a test involving the application of a composition to the skin or lips and evaluating the color and retention of the composition after a specified or prolonged period.For example, the color of a composition can be evaluated immediately after application to the skin or lips, and these characteristics can then be re-evaluated and compared after a predetermined or extended period. For lip compositions, "long-lasting" typically means that the composition remains on the lips for at least 4 hours to approximately 24 hours.
[0015] The term "anhydrous", as used here, refers to a composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, or even less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even being free of water.
[0016] The term "oil", as used here, refers to any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0017] The expression "non-volatile oil," as used herein, refers to oil that is capable of remaining on the lips or skin for a plurality of hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and / or having a non-zero vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa, at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). In one example, the pressure of Vapor can be measured using the static method or the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD 104 standard). Non-volatile oils can be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils, referred to as hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils or silicone non-volatile oils, respectively, in various embodiments herein.
[0018] The term "volatile oil," as used herein, refers to an oil capable of evaporating at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). More particularly, volatile oil is a compound that vaporizes upon contact with the skin or lips in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and / or having a non-zero vapor pressure of at least 2.66 Pa, at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa (0.02 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.02 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.02 to 10 mmHg). Volatile oils can be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils, referred to as hydrocarbon-based volatile oils or silicone volatile oils, respectively, in various embodiments of this document.
[0019] The term “hydrocarbon-based oil,” as used herein, refers to oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms. Oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals. Hydrocarbon-based oils may be polar or nonpolar. Hydrocarbon-based oils may be volatile or non-volatile. Hydrocarbon-based oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.
[0020] The expression "silicone oil", as used here, refers to oil comprising at least one Si atom, for example having Si-O groups.
[0021] The term “colorant”, as used here, refers to its generally accepted meaning in the art. It refers to a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.
[0022] All percentages, parts, and ratios are based on the total weight of the compositions in this disclosure, unless otherwise stated. It should be noted that ingredient quantities are expressed as the amount of active ingredient and not raw material. Furthermore, ratios, concentrations, quantities, and other numerical data may be presented here in a range format. It should be understood that this range format is used solely for convenience and conciseness and should be interpreted flexibly as including not only the numerical values explicitly stated as limits of the range, but also as including all individual numeric values or subranges encompassed within that range as if each numeric value and subrange were explicitly stated. For example, a percentage range of approximately 15% to 20% should be interpreted as including not only the explicitly stated limits of approximately 15% to approximately 20%, but also as including subranges, such as 16% to 18%, 17% to 19%, etc., as well as individual quantities, including fractional quantities, within the specified ranges, such as 15.8% and 17.25%, for example.
[0023] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art to which this disclosure relates. Although all processes and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in the practice or testing of the disclosure, preferred processes and materials are now described.
[0024] This disclosure shall not be limited in scope by the specific embodiments described herein, which are intended for illustrative purposes only. Functionally equivalent products, compositions, and processes clearly fall within the scope of this disclosure, as described herein.
[0025] The present embodiments provide a liquid cosmetic composition for applying makeup to keratinous materials, such as skin, cheeks, or lips. The disclosed embodiments include a composition for applying makeup to skin or lips, a makeup kit, and a method for applying makeup to skin or lips. In various embodiments herein, the composition is a liquid lipstick composition having improved cosmetic properties. The composition, according to these embodiments, has improved properties to overcome drawbacks, such as improved lip comfort, prevention of a stiff feeling on the lips, and reduction of the drying or tightness of the lips, which are generally observed in other commercially available long-lasting liquid lipsticks.The composition, according to the embodiments presented herein, has improved stability with the desired texture and enhanced ease of application. Furthermore, the composition, according to the embodiments presented herein, offers an all-in-one solution for skin or lip makeup and possesses long-lasting properties and extended retention of intense color on the skin or lips. It provides the user with a comfortable, non-drying, and non-sticky sensation on the lips. The embodiments presented herein further include a process for preparing the cosmetic composition. Composition
[0026] The present invention relates to a liquid cosmetic composition for makeup on the skin or lips, the composition comprising: (a) a non-polar oil (b) a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil in an amount of 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) a volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil in an amount of 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (d) a mixture of at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil, in which the volatile silicone oil is in an amount of 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and the non-volatile silicone oil is in an amount of 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (e) a trimethylsiloxysilicate; and (d) a lipophilic gelling agent.
[0027] The composition, according to embodiments herein, is a liquid. In various embodiments herein, the composition according to the present invention has a viscosity preferably in the range of 0.4 to 2 Pa.s, more preferably 0.5 to 1.5 Pa.s, and even more preferably 0.6 to 1.3 Pa.s. Viscosity measurement
[0028] The viscosity of the compositions was measured using a Lamy Rheology Rheomat RM 200 type rheometer with a spindle 3 at a speed of 200 rpm, at ambient temperature (25 °C) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The measurement was carried out after 10 minutes of spindle rotation within the composition, at a shear rate of 200 rpm.
[0029] The composition, according to a preferred embodiment, is anhydrous. In various embodiments, the composition comprises less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises less than 2% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. In a more preferred embodiment, the composition comprises less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0030] Non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil
[0031] The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes a non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil. The non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil, according to embodiments herein, refers to a non-polar oil containing only hydrogen and carbon atoms. The non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may, in particular, be selected from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, or of vegetable origin, especially liquid paraffin or its derivatives, liquid petroleum jelly, polybutenes, hydrogenated polybutenes, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, squalane, preferably of vegetable origin, or mixtures thereof.
[0032] In one embodiment, the non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from polybutene, hydrogenated polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, vegetable-derived squalane, or mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil is polybutene, for example, that sold under the reference Indopol® H 100 by Ineos.
[0033] The amount of non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil in an amount ranging from 17% to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0034] Volatile non-polar oil based on hydrocarbons
[0035] The composition also includes a volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oil. According to embodiments herein, the volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oil may, in particular, be selected from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, including C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, for example, C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, or mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oil is isododecane, for example, those sold under the trade names IsoparTM or Permethyl® 99A' Creasil ID, etc.
[0036] The amount of volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil in the composition is present in an amount ranging from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0037] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oil, in an amount ranging from 35% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0038] A mixture of at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil
[0039] The volatile silicone oil, according to embodiments herein, includes linear or cyclic silicones, in particular, containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms. The silicon may optionally be independently attached to one or more alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl. It may, in particular, be selected from caprylyl methicone, methyltrimethicone, disiloxane, trisiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, decamethyl cyclo pentasiloxane, octamethyl cyclo tetrasiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes, or mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the volatile silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxane, for example those sold under the reference XIAMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2 cSt by Dow®.
[0040] In one embodiment, the volatile silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity at 25 °C of less than 5 centistokes (cSt) (5 x 10⁶ m² / s), measured according to ASTM D-445. In a preferred embodiment, the volatile silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity at 25 °C of 2 cSt (2 x 10⁶ m² / s).
[0041] The amount of volatile silicone oil in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The volatile silicone oil, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount of 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises volatile silicone oil in an amount of 2% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0042] The non-volatile silicone oil is preferably selected from silicone oils free of phenyl groups, more particularly from polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name dimethicone); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one aliphatic group, in particular a C2-C24 alkyl group, or mixtures thereof. The term "polydimethylsiloxane," as used here, refers to a polymer with repeating monomer motifs [Si(CH3)2O], preferably linear. Preferably, the silicone oil does not comprise any (poly)oxyalkylene group, the oxyalkylene motif of which is in the C2-C3 position, or any (poly)glycerol group. The non-volatile silicone oils may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes, cetyldimethicone, or mixtures thereof.
[0043] In one embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil is selected from oils having a viscosity at 25 °C in a range of 5 (cSt) (5 x 10⁶ m² / s) to 100 (cSt) (100 x 10⁶ m² / s), measured according to ASTM D-445, more particularly in a range of 5 (cSt) (5 x 10⁶ m² / s) to 50 (cSt) (50 x 10⁶ m² / s), measured according to ASTM D-445, preferably 5 (cSt) (5 x 10⁶ m² / s) to 20 (cSt) (20 x 10⁶ m² / s), measured according to ASTM D-445.
[0044] Preferably, the silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxane, without any other substitution of the alkyl group.
[0045] In a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil is a polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity at 25 °C of 10 cSt (10 x 10⁶ m² / s). In one embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil is a polydimethylsiloxane, for example, those sold under the reference XIAMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10 cSt, by Dow®; Belsil DM 10 by Wacker.
[0046] The amount of non-volatile silicone oil in the composition ranges from 2% to 5%, preferably from 2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0047] Trimethylsiloxysilicate
[0048] The composition, according to embodiments herein, comprises an MQ type silicone resin, in particular trimethylsiloxysilicate.
[0049] More generally, the term "resin" refers to a compound with a three-dimensional structure. "Silicone resins" are also called "siloxane resins." Thus, for the purposes of this disclosure, polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.
[0050] The nomenclature of silicone resins is known as "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the various siloxane monomer motifs it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of motif.
[0051] The letter “M” represents the monofunctional motif of formula RlR2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being bonded to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this motif.
[0052] The letter “D” designates a difunctional RlR2SiO2 / 2 motif in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.
[0053] The letter “T” represents a trifunctional motif of formula RlSiO3 / 2.
[0054] These resins are described, for example, in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), pp. 265-270, and US 2 676 182, US 3 627 851, US 3 772 247, US 5 248 739 or US 5 082 706, US 5 319 040, US 5 302 685 and US 4 935 484.
[0055] In the motifs M, D and T defined above, R, namely RI and R2, represents a hydrocarbon-based radical (in particular alkyl) containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group.
[0056] Finally, the letter “Q” designates a tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 motif in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
[0057] Various silicone resins with different properties can be obtained from these different motifs, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or motifs), the nature and number of the R radical, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the side chains.
[0058] Examples of MQ type silicone resins include alkyl siloxysilicates of formula [(Rl)3SiOi / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y(MQ motifs) in which x and y are integers from 50 to 80, and such that the RI group represents a radical as defined above, and is preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, more preferably a methyl group.
[0059] Silicone resin can be used in powder form or dissolved in a solvent. Examples of solid silicone resins of type MQ are of type trimethylsiloxysilicate include those sold under the reference BELSIL® TMS 803, by Wacker, SR 1000 by Momentive Performance Materials, and Silsoft™ 74 FLUID by Momentive Performance Materials.Examples of silicone resins carried in a solvent can be cited as Koboguard® MQ65TMF (mixture of trimethylsiloxysilicate and methyl trimethicone) sold by Kobo; KF-7312J (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane), KF-7312K, KF-7312L (mixture in dimethicone), KF-7312T (mixture in trimethicone), X-21-5249 (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane), X-21-5249L (mixture in dimethicone), X-21-5250, X-21-5250L (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone, respectively), X-21-5595, X-21-5616 (mixtures in isododecane), KF-9021, KF-9021L (mixtures in cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone, respectively), sold by Shin-Etsu; Silsoft 74, Silshine 151 (mixtures in isododecane) from Momentive Performance Materials; Xiameter RSN-0749v Resin, Dow Corning 749 Fluid (mixtures in cyclopentasiloxane), Dow Corning 593 Fluid (mixture in dimethicone) from Dow Corning.
[0060] The amount of trimethylsiloxysilicate in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. According to the embodiments herein, trimethylsiloxysilicate may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5% to 8% by weight, preferably from 6% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0061] Lipophilic gelling agent
[0062] The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes a lipophilic gelling agent.
[0063] The lipophilic gelling agent may in particular be chosen from silica, clays or their mixtures. The lipophilic gelling agent may in particular be chosen from silica, such as hydrophobic treated pyrogenic silica and hydrophobic silica aerogel; from clays, such as hydrophobic hectorites and hydrophobic bentonites; or mixtures thereof.
[0064] In one embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent comprises at least one of the following: silica selected from pyrogenic silica and silica aerogel, or mixtures thereof; clays selected from hydrophobic hectorites and hydrophobic bentonites, or mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent comprises at least one of the following: silica selected from pyrogenic silica, including hydrophobic treated pyrogenic silica, and silica aerogel, including hydrophobic silica aerogel, or mixtures thereof; and clays selected from hydrophobic hectorites and hydrophobic bentonites, or mixtures thereof.In another embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent comprises at least one of the following: treated hydrophobic pyrogenic silica, hydrophobic silica aerogel, hydrophobic hectorites, hydrophobic bentonites or mixtures thereof, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent is preferably in a range of 0.5% to 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0065] Pyrogenic silica
[0066] The silica, according to embodiments herein, can be selected from pyrogenic silica and / or silica aerogel. Suitable pyrogenic silica includes silica having a treated hydrophobic surface. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by a chemical reaction generating a reduced number of silanol groups present on the silica surface. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups, and a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
[0067] Hydrophobic groups can be: • trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating sublimed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. The silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). • dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating sublimed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. The silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000).
[0068] Accordingly, in one embodiment, the composition comprises hydrophobically treated pyrogenic silica.
[0069] Silica aerogels
[0070] Silica aerogels, according to embodiments described herein, are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker, CJ, and Scherer, GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.
[0071] In one embodiment, the composition comprises a hydrophobic silica aerogel. The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) of 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m2 / g and even better 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume mean diameter (D[0,5]), of 1 to 1500 pm, in particular 1 to 1000 pm, preferably 1 to 100 pm.
[0072] In one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a size expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm. In a preferred embodiment, the particles hydrophobic silica aerogels have a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 5 to 20 pm and more preferentially from 5 to 15 pm.
[0073] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined using the nitrogen absorption method called BET (BRUNAUER-EMMET-TELLER) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered.
[0074] The particle size of silica aerogel can be measured by static light scattering using a commercially available particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Scattering by Small P Articles," chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0075] In some embodiments, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles can have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 5 to 20 pm and more preferably from 5 to 15 pm.
[0076] The expression "hydrophobic silica", as used here, refers to any silica whose surface is treated with silylation agents, for example, with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.
[0077] With regard to the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference may be made to US Patent No. 7,470,725. Preferably, surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles with trimethylsilyl groups may be used.
[0078] Hydrophobic silica aerogels, according to embodiments herein, include for example the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0079] The aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, is preferably used in various embodiments here, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g.
[0080] The lipophilic gelling agent, according to the present embodiments, is selected from hydrophobic treated pyrogenic silica, hydrophobic silica aerogel, or mixtures thereof, preferably in a range of 0.5% to 8% by weight, more preferably in a range of 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, the composition comprises the lipophilic gelling agent, preferably in an amount of 1% to 1.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0081] Clays
[0082] Clay, according to embodiments herein, includes natural and / or synthetic clays.
[0083] Clays are silicates containing a cation that can be selected from among calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof. Examples of clays include clays of the smectite family, such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, and saponites; and the vermiculite family, such as stevensite, chlorites, etc. Such clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.
[0084] The embodiments herein may also include organophilic clays. Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, aminoacetates, imidazolines, amino soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylaryl sulfonates, amine oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0085] In some embodiments, the hectorites can be modified by a quaternary compound, more specifically by a halide, such as a chloride, of ammonium fatty acid in C22 C1O, such as a hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone EW CE, by the company ELEMENTIS; Stearalkonium Hectorites such as Bentone 27V, disteardimonium hectorites such as Bentone Gel ISD V, marketed by the company ELEMENTIS.We can also mention quaternium-18 bentonites, such as those sold under the names Bentone 34, marketed by Elementis, Claytone 40, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst and Southern Clay; stearalconium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay; or quaternium-18 / benzalconium bentonites, such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by Southern Clay.
[0086] In a preferred embodiment, the clays are chosen in particular from among hectorites modified by a C22 ammonium halide, in particular chloride, such as distearyl chloride-modified hectorite dimethylammonium, or alternatively bentone gels, in particular disteardimonium hectorite in isododecane. In one embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent is disteardimonium hectorite. In another embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent is disteardimonium hectorite in isododecane.
[0087] The lipophilic gelling agent, according to the embodiments here, is chosen from hydrophobic hectorite and hydrophobic bentonite, present in the composition preferably in a range of 1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 6% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0088] Additional non-volatile oils
[0089] The composition, according to embodiments described herein, may include at least one additional non-volatile oil, other than the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils and non-volatile silicone oils described above. The additional non-volatile oil or oils may be selected from non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils, non-volatile phenyl silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0090] Non-volatile polar oils based on hydrocarbons
[0091] The additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based additional oil, according to the embodiments herein, can, in particular, be chosen from vegetable oils, oils with one or more ester functions comprising at least 12 carbon atoms which are different from said vegetable oils, C10-C26 alcohols, or mixtures thereof.
[0092] In one embodiment, the additional non-volatile, polar hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from vegetable oils, C10-C26 alcohols, oils with one or more ester functions different from vegetable oils, or mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile, polar hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from oils with one or more ester functions comprising at least 12 carbon atoms and different from vegetable oils.
[0093] Vegetable oils
[0094] The embodiments herein include oils of vegetable origin. In one embodiment, the oils of vegetable origin are vegetable oil. Examples of vegetable oils include castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, flaxseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, marula oil, camelina oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, oil poppy oil, pumpkin oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, black sandalwood oil, babassu oil, liquid fraction of shea butter, liquid fraction of cocoa butter, or mixtures thereof.
[0095] Non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils with one or more ester functions
[0096] Embodiments herein include non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils distinct from vegetable oils, selected more particularly from hydrocarbon compounds comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12. In addition, the ester oil may optionally comprise one or more ether or hydroxyl functions. More particularly, the ester oils are selected from mono- or di-esters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, comprising more particularly from 12 to 50 carbon atoms, and optionally one or two ether groups.Among the compounds of this type, we may cite monoesters or diesters obtained from monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, comprising in particular from 4 to 28, preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl group, on the one hand, and the monoalcohol or polyol, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 2 to 26, in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12, preferably at least 16. In addition, the ester may optionally comprise one or two ether groups and optionally one or two hydroxyl groups.
[0097] Examples of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils include decyl oleate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, hexyldecyl laurate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl stearate, glycerin stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, mixtures of capric acid esters, capric acid, caprylic acid and coconut alcohol (C12-C18 alcohols), octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate,Octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearate and diisostearyl adipate, or mixtures thereof. In, In a preferred embodiment, the additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is ethylhexyl palmitate.
[0098] Examples also include monocarboxylic acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, particularly comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and diols, particularly glycols, especially C2-C5, glycerol or polyglycerol. Other examples include propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate and dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, or mixtures thereof.
[0099] C10-C26 Alcohols
[0100] The present embodiments include C10-C26 alcohols. According to the embodiments described herein, the C10-C26 alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols. They comprise a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical comprising 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably comprising 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They are preferably monohydroxylated.
[0101] In a preferred embodiment, the C10-C26 alcohols are selected from lauric alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, butylloctanol, undecyl pentadecanol, hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, or mixtures thereof.
[0102] Non-volatile phenylated silicone oils
[0103] The present embodiments include compositions comprising at least one additional non-volatile phenyl silicone oil. Examples of non-volatile phenyl silicone oils include, but are not limited to, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethyl siloxy phenyl dimethicone, diphenyl siloxy phenyl trimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, or mixtures thereof.
[0104] These products are notably sold under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) and Dowsil 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (phenyl trimethicone) by Dow Corning; diphenyl dimethicones such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d and KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A sold by Shin-Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000 sold by Wacker Chemie (trimethylsiloxy phenyl dimethicone), alone or in mixture.
[0105] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one additional non-volatile polar oil based on hydrocarbons. According to a Another preferred embodiment is that the composition does not include additional non-volatile phenyl silicone oil.
[0106] The amount of additional non-volatile oil selected from non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil, non-volatile phenyl silicone oil, or mixtures thereof, in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The additional non-volatile oil, preferably non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil, according to the embodiments of this document, may be present in the composition. Advantageously, the amount varies from 2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, the composition comprises an additional non-volatile oil, preferably a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil, preferably in an amount of 3% to 6%, more preferably in an amount of 4% to 6%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0107] Fatty solid compounds
[0108] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one solid fatty compound (at room temperature and atmospheric pressure), selected from waxes, paste compounds, or mixtures thereof, more particularly from hydrocarbon-based waxes, paste hydrocarbon-based compounds, or mixtures thereof.
[0109] Waxes
[0110] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40 °C, and less than or equal to 120 °C, more particularly less than or equal to 90 °C.
[0111] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature (or melting point) corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999.
[0112] The melting point of a solid fatty compound can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC 2000" by TA Instruments with the "TA Universal Analysis" software.
[0113] The measurement protocol is as follows:
[0114] A 5 mg sample of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to an initial temperature rise from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute, then cooled from 120 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the solid fat is measured, which corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve.
[0115] More particularly, the wax can be chosen from polar waxes, in particular alcohol waxes; esters such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, lanolin, sunflower, candelilla, carnauba, rice bran, lignite, hydrogenated jojoba oil; waxes resulting from the hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and vegetable oil; waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which RI and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose melting temperature varies from 40 to 120 °C; partial or total agents, preferably total, of a C16-C30 saturated carboxylic acid with glycerol, such as glyceryl tristearate or glyceryl tribehenate, glyceryl trihydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0116] We can also mention non-polar hydrocarbon waxes (i.e. made up solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms), resulting from the transformation of petroleum, such as, for example, polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes (synthetic wax, Fischer-Tropsch), alone or in mixtures.
[0117] Pasty compounds
[0118] For the purposes of this invention, "pasty compound" means a lipophilic compound comprising, at room temperature, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have an initial melting point below 25 °C.
[0119] The melting point of the paste-like compound is determined according to the same principle as that detailed above for waxes. However, in the case of a paste-like compound, the measurement protocol is as follows:
[0120] A 5 mg sample of a paste-like compound placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute, then cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. The melting point of the paste-like compound is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.
[0121] It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the paste-like compound at room temperature is equal to the ratio between the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature and the enthalpy of fusion of the paste-like fat. The enthalpy of fusion of the paste-like compound is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to change from the solid to the liquid state. The paste-like compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The paste-like compound is said to be in the liquid state when Its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the paste-like compound is the amount of energy required to change the paste-like compound from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat substance is equal to the area under the curve of the resulting thermogram.
[0122] Preferably, the paste-like compounds, also called hydrocarbon-based paste-like compounds, are selected from petroleum jelly; vegetable butters, such as in particular mango, shea, cupuacu, murumuru, cocoa, babassu or jojoba butters; fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as, for example, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as products bearing the INCI name hydrogenated vegetable oil, partially hydrogenated olive oil; hydrogenated castor oil esters and Cl6-C22 fatty acids, bis-diglyceryl-2 polyacyladipate; products bearing the INCI name hydrogenated coco-glycerides;dilinoleic alcohol and / or dilinoleic acid dimer esters, for example products bearing the following INCI names: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate), hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, or mixtures thereof.
[0123] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the amount of solid fatty compound, if present in the composition, is at most 2% by weight, more particularly at most 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any solid fatty compound.
[0124] Other additives
[0125] The composition, according to embodiments described herein, may also include one or more additives, in particular cosmetic additives, which may be selected from fillers, cosmetic actives, brighteners, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, neutralizers, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, free radical scavengers, sequestrants, solvents, humectants, and mixtures thereof. It is understood that a person skilled in the art will take care to select any optional additional additives and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the disclosure are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the contemplated addition. All such embodiments, including the optional additives, are understood to be included within the scope of this disclosure.
[0126] Antioxidants
[0127] The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more antioxidants. The antioxidants that are part of the composition provide protection of the skin against cellular damage caused by oxygen free radicals. Examples of antioxidants include, but are not limited to, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), ascorbic acids, their salts or esters, such as ascorbyl palmitate; retinyl palmitate (vitamin A); erythorbic acid; pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate; etc. or mixtures thereof.
[0128] Humectant
[0129] The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more humectants. Humectants generally impart moisturizing properties to the skin. Examples of humectants include polyols such as glycerin, diglycerin; sugars, particularly monosaccharides, sorbitol, fructose, inositol; salts of lactic acid, such as sodium lactate, etc.; or mixtures thereof.
[0130] Solvent
[0131] The composition, according to embodiments herein, optionally includes one or more solvents, which are used to dissolve and suspend the other components of the composition. Examples of solvents include, but are not limited to, monoalcohols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and especially 2 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol. The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one polyol that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The term "polyol" refers to any organic molecule comprising at least two hydroxyl groups (or free hydroxyl groups).More specifically, the liquid polyol(s) are selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched compounds, in the C2-C8 range, more particularly in the C3-C6 range, comprising at least two hydroxyl functional groups, preferably comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Advantageously, the polyol may, for example, be selected from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, or mixtures thereof.
[0132] Dyes
[0133] The composition, according to embodiments shown herein, may include one or more colorants. The colorant may in particular be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments and dyes such as fat-soluble dyes, or mixtures thereof.
[0134] The expression "liposoluble dye", as used here, refers to any natural or synthetic, generally organic, dye compound that is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with a fatty substance, and that is capable of imparting color.
[0135] In some embodiments, the compositions include one or more fat-soluble dyes. Examples of fat-soluble dyes suitable for use in various embodiments herein include synthetic or natural fat-soluble dyes, such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin, or mixtures thereof.
[0136] In some embodiments, the compositions include one or more pigments.
[0137] The term "pigments", as used herein, is understood to include white or coloured particles, inorganic (mineral) or organic, which are insoluble in an aqueous solution, and which are intended to colour and / or opacify the composition containing them and / or the deposit produced with the composition.
[0138] The pigments, in various embodiments, can be white or colored. They can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials), or mixtures thereof.
[0139] The pigments may be selected from monochrome pigments, lakes, mother-of-pearls, and pigments with optical effects, for example, reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments. The pigments may, for example, be in powder or paste form. They may be coated or uncoated. In a particular embodiment, the pigments are selected from mineral pigments. The mineral pigments may be selected from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, iron blue, or mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the pigment is titanium dioxide.
[0140] In another embodiment, the pigments are selected from an organic pigment, which is synthetic, or of natural origin. Organic pigments may, for example, be cochineal carmine, azo organic pigments, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane, or fluorane dyes; organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, or titanium salts of acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluorane, or mixtures thereof. These dyes generally include at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group; and melanin-based pigments.
[0141] Examples of organic pigments include D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6.
[0142] In some embodiments, the pigments include nacre. The term “nacre”, as used here, should be understood as meaning colored particles of any shape, which may be iridescent or not, produced in particular by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.
[0143] Examples of pearlescent pigments that can be used in various embodiments herein include pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, particularly of the type mentioned above, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also consist of mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes are superimposed.
[0144] Mother-of-pearl may have more particularly a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.
[0145] Examples of mother-of-pearl, which can be presented as interferences, include gold mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the Engelhard company under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the Merck company under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the Engelhard company under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the Engelhard company under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the Merck company under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown mother-of-pearl, notably sold by the Engelhard company under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); mother-of-pearl with a coppery sheen, notably sold by the Engelhard company under the name Copper 340A (Timica);mother-of-pearl with a red sheen, notably sold by Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); mother-of-pearl with a yellow sheen, notably sold by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red mother-of-pearl with a golden sheen, notably sold by Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); mother-of-pearl; roses notably sold by the Engelhard company under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearls with a golden sheen notably sold by the Engelhard company under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearls notably sold by the Merck company under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearls with a silver sheen notably sold by the Merck company under the name Xirona Silver, and pink-orange-gold-green mother-of-pearls notably sold by the Merck company under the name Indian summer (Xirona), or their mixtures.
[0146] The expression "particles with a metallic sheen", as used herein, refers to any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface finish enable it to reflect incident light, in particular in a non-iridescent manner.
[0147] The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular selected from: • particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; • particles comprising a single-material or multi-material organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer with a metallic sheen comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; and • mixtures of said particles.
[0148] Among the metals that may be present in said particles, examples include Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se, and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and their mixtures or alloys (for example, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.
[0149] The expression "metal derivatives", as used herein, refers to compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.
[0150] The powdered colorants described above can be surface-treated, totally or partially, with a hydrophobic agent. Hydrophobically treated pigments are described in particular in document EP 1 086 683.
[0151] The hydrophobic treatment agent according to embodiments herein may be selected from silicones, such as methicones and dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes, silanes, fatty acids, such as stearic acid, metallic soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate and aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, perfluoropolyethers, amino acids, N-acyl amino acids or their salts, lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate and isostearyl sebacate, or mixtures thereof.
[0152] The term "alkyl", as used here, mentioned in particular in the compounds cited above, designates in particular an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0153] The composition, according to the embodiments presented herein, comprises at least one colorant, chosen in particular from pigments, and fat-soluble dyes. In a preferred embodiment, the colorant is chosen from titanium dioxide, yellow lake 6, red 7, red 28, red 22, and mixtures thereof.
[0154] Preparation of compositions according to disclosure
[0155] The compositions according to the disclosure can be manufactured using known processes, generally used in the cosmetics industry. Typically, the process includes mixing the ingredients at a temperature that allows for a homogeneous mixture. More specifically, the temperature is maintained between 20°C and 90°C, preferably between 20°C and 40°C. In one particular embodiment, since the composition preferably does not include fatty solid compounds, particularly waxes, the process temperature is maintained between 20°C and 30°C, more specifically around room temperature (25°C). The colorants can be added at any time during the process. In one embodiment, the pigments are preferably mixed with some of the oils at room temperature before adding other ingredients.Optionally, one or more fragrances, antioxidants, humectants, or mixtures thereof may be added as appropriate. Use and process
[0156] A composition, according to the embodiments described herein, may more particularly be a composition for applying makeup to keratinous material such as skin, cheeks, or lips. Preferably, the composition, according to the embodiments described herein, is a cosmetic composition for applying makeup to the skin or lips, more preferably to the lips. Therefore, the composition, in various embodiments described herein, may be a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip stain, or a lip gloss.
[0157] The composition, according to embodiments herein, can be applied using any means, such as a finger or preferably using an applicator, in particular a immersion applicator, for example using a flocked immersion applicator, and / or even using a sponge.
[0158] Therefore, embodiments herein include a process for applying makeup to the skin or lips, in particular the lips, comprising at least one step of applying the composition as described herein, to the skin or lips.
[0159] Preferably, the process consists of applying makeup to the lips, comprising at least one step of applying a composition such as described herein to said lips.
[0160] The embodiments herein further include a lip makeup kit. In one embodiment, the kit includes the composition as described herein, and an applicator. In one embodiment, the kit includes the composition as described here; a container containing the composition; and an applicator.
[0161] Although this disclosure has been described in great detail with reference to certain embodiments and their implementations, other embodiments are possible to cover modifications and variations to this disclosure. EXAMPLES
[0162] The disclosure will now be illustrated by practical examples, which are intended to demonstrate how the disclosure works and are not intended to impose restrictive limitations on the scope of this disclosure. Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person of ordinary competence in the art to which this disclosure pertains. Although processes and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in the practice of the disclosed processes and compositions, examples of processes, devices, and materials are described herein. It should be understood that this disclosure is not limited to the particular processes and experimental conditions described, as these processes and conditions may be applicable. Measurement and evaluation methods
[0163] Each of the compositions C (1) to C (7) as prepared in Examples 1 and 2 below was evaluated for its sensory aspects and stability characteristics. Stability evaluation
[0164] The stability of the compositions was evaluated by placing the obtained compositions at 50 °C for 2 weeks. It can also be evaluated by placing the obtained compositions at 25 °C, 45 °C, and 4 °C for 2 months. The observation of phase separation and any changes in appearance was verified. Transfer assessment
[0165] The transfer was evaluated by a sensory test carried out under the following conditions. The composition was applied to the lips and allowed to dry at room temperature (25°C) for 2 minutes. The transfer was then evaluated by a kiss test on a white surface (such as a white cup or a white tissue) and by observing the color left on the surface. Viscosity measurement
[0166] The viscosity of the compositions was measured using a Lamy Rheology Rheomat RM 200 type rheometer with a 3-spindle at a speed of 200 rpm, at room temperature (25 °C) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The measurement was taken after 10 minutes of spindle rotation within the composition, at a shear rate of 200 rpm. Example 1 Examples of work
[0167] The liquid cosmetic compositions in accordance with this disclosure provided in Table 1 were prepared as described below.
[0168] Preparation of liquid cosmetic composition;
[0169] Before the preparation of the compositions, the phase A ingredients were subjected to a grinding process.
[0170] The ingredients of phase A were mixed with a portion of the phase B1 ingredient and the phase B2 ingredients by passing them three times through a triple roller mill at room temperature to obtain the first mixture. In a separate container, the ingredients of phase C were mixed with the remaining portion of the phase B1 ingredient to obtain the second mixture. The phase D ingredients and the first mixture were added sequentially to the second mixture under constant stirring. The mixture was stirred for 5 minutes to obtain a homogenized liquid cosmetic composition.
[0171] The compositions are prepared at room temperature (25 °C).
[0172] [Tables] Phase Ingrédients (nom INCI) Teneur (en poids par rapport au poids t otal de la composition) C(l) C (2) C (3) C (4) C (5) A Dimethicone (X1AMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2 cSt, Dow) 5 10 3 6 8 Dimethicone (XIAMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10 cS t, Dow) 2 2 2 3 2 B1 Isododecane 40,95 31,55 43,7 39,3 37,5 B2 Titanium Dioxide 0,8 - 0,8 0,8 0,8 Yellow 6 Lake 2,6 7 2,6 2,6 2,6 Red 7 1 0,8 1 1 1 Red 28 Lake 4,3 - 4,3 4,3 4,3 Red 22 Lake 3,7 C Ethylhexyl palmitate 5 5 5 5 5 Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 Caprylyl Glycol 0,7 0,7 0,7 0,7 0,7 D Trimethylsiloxysilicate (BELSIL® TMS 803, Wacker) 6,2 6 6,2 6,3 6,3 Disteardimonium hectorite (Bentone® 38, Elementis) 7,2 7,5 7,2 7,4 7,2 Polybutene (Indopol ®H 100, o ligomers INEOS) 20 22 19 19 20 Propylene Carbonate 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 2,5 Silica Silylate (DOWSIL™ VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Partie les, Dow Corning) 1,25 0,75 1,5 1,6 1,6 Antioxydant / parfum 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2
[0173] As observed in Table 1 above, all compositions were stable according to the protocols mentioned above, and proved easy to apply with good sliding properties.
[0174] The viscosities of each of these compositions were found to be between 0.6 and 1.3 Pa.s.
[0175] The composition deposits were precise and were found not to migrate into the fine lines around the lips.
[0176] The deposits were also observed to be matte, comfortable, non-sticky, non-drying to the lips, with good staying power and very little transfer. Example 2 Comparative Examples
[0177] The liquid cosmetic compositions provided in Table 2 were prepared by a process as described previously in Example 1.
[0178] [Tables2] Phase Ingrédients (nom INCI) C(6) C(7) A Dimethicone (XIAMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2 cSt, Dow) 15 - Dimethicone (XIAMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10 cSt, Dow) 2 - Dimethicone (XIAMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 350 cSt, Dow) - 5 B1 Isododecane 29 37,45 B2 Titanium Dioxide 0,8 - Yellow 6 Lake 2,6 7 Red 7 1 0,8 Red 28 Lake 4,3 - Red 22 Lake - 3,8 mica - 0,5 C Ethylhexyl palmitate 5 5 Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydrox yhydrocinnamate 0,3 0,3 Caprylyl Glycol 0,7 0,7 D Trimethylsiloxysilicate (BELSIL® TM S 803, Wacker) - 6 Trimethylsiloxysilicate (SILSOFT 74 FLUID - mélange de tr iméthylsiloxysilicate dans l’isododécan e 9 - Disteardimonium hectorite (Bentone® 38, Elementis) 8 7,5 Polybutene (Indopol ®H 100, oligomers INEOS) 19 22 Propylene Carbonate 2,6 2,5 Silica Silylate (DOWSIL™ VM-2270 A erogel Fine P articles, Dow Corning) 0,5 1,25 Antioxydant / parfum 0,2 0,2 Résultats
[0179] Composition C (6) was not stable after 2 weeks at 50 °C and released oil. Furthermore, the deposit resulting from the composition was not long-lasting.
[0180] Composition C (7) was observed to be a thick cream. The composition was less easy to apply and was found to dry quickly. The residue left a drying sensation on the lips and was uncomfortable.
[0181] Consequently, it is observed that the comparative examples (Table 2) obtained unsatisfactory results, with stability problems that can be attributed to a discrepancy in the use of ingredients and the weight percentages of ingredients such as volatile and non-volatile silicone oils. Therefore, it is essential to maintain the ingredients, as disclosed herein, within the desired ranges to obtain a stable liquid cosmetic composition with the desired cosmetic properties.
Claims
Demands
1. Liquid cosmetic composition for the makeup of the skin or lips, the composition comprising: (a) a non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from polybutene, hydrogenated polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, vegetable-derived squalane, or mixtures thereof, in an amount of 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) a non-polar, volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, or mixtures thereof, in an amount of 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;(c) a mixture of at least one volatile silicone oil selected from caprylyl methicone, methyltrimethicone, disiloxane, trisiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes, or mixtures thereof, and at least one non-volatile silicone oil selected from polydimethylsiloxanes, wherein the volatile silicone oil is in an amount of 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the non-volatile silicone oil is in an amount of 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (d) a trimethylsiloxysilicate; and (e) a lipophilic gelling agent.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein trimethylsiloxysilicate is in an amount from 5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent is selected from hydrophobic treated pyrogenic silica, hydrophobic silica aerogel or mixtures thereof, in an amount from 0.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent is selected from hydrophobic hectorite, hydrophobic bentonite, or mixtures thereof. quantity ranging from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is anhydrous; and the total amount of water is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Method of making up the skin or lips, comprising applying to said skin or lips the composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims.