SILICONE-FREE HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION

Abstract

SILICONE-FREE HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a silicone-free hair conditioning composition comprising: a) at least one volatile alkane; b) at least one fatty substance selected from unsaturated fatty compounds comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, fatty acid ester oils and mixtures thereof; and c) at least one thickener selected from ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymers, optionally hydrogenated block copolymers, in particular diblock or triblock, of styrene and olefin, preferably containing one or two ethylenic unsaturations, and / or preferably containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. The present invention also relates to a hair conditioning process comprising applying the composition as described above to the hair. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: SILICONE-FREE HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a hair conditioning composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a silicone-free hair conditioning composition. The present invention also relates to a hair conditioning process. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, weather conditions and / or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0003] There are many products developed to revitalize hair.

[0004] The current hair oil market is dominated by oils containing silicones. However, many consumers prefer silicone-free hair oil products, which explains the global growth of silicone-free oil products.

[0005] Therefore, it is desirable to develop a Si-free oil-based hair conditioning product, which can provide a conditioning effect similar to silicone-based oil products and does not provide a greasy feeling.

[0006] It is also desirable that the Si-free oil-based product be stable so that consumers can apply it conveniently. Summary of the invention

[0007] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop Si-free oil products for conditioning hair, which are stable, can provide a conditioning effect similar to silicone-based oil products and do not provide a greasy feeling.

[0008] Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for revitalizing hair.

[0009] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a silicone-free hair revitalizing composition comprising: a. at least one volatile alkane; b. at least one fatty substance selected from unsaturated fatty compounds comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, fatty acid ester oils and mixtures thereof; and c. at least one thickener chosen from ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymers, optionally block copolymers, in particular di-block or tri-block copolymers of styrene and olefin, preferably containing one or two ethylenic unsaturations, and / or preferably containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0010] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a hair revitalization process comprising applying the composition as described above to the hair.

[0011] The inventors have now discovered that with the combination of at least one volatile alkane, at least one fatty substance as defined above and at least one thickener as defined above, the composition of the present invention can provide revitalizing effects similar to those of a silicone-based oil composition, for example a light and silky feeling.

[0012] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent upon reading the detailed description and examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0013] In this document, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0014] As used herein, the term "comprising" shall be construed to include all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.

[0015] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0016] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0017] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing an amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Therefore, unless otherwise specified, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which may be modified depending on the desired performance achieved as required.

[0018] In this document, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0019] As used herein, the term "silicone-free composition" means that silicone is not intentionally added to the composition, in particular, the composition comprises no more than 2% by weight of silicone, based on the total weight of the composition, more particularly, the composition does not comprise silicone.

[0020] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises: a. at least one volatile alkane; a. at least one fatty substance selected from unsaturated fatty compounds comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, fatty acid ester oils and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one thickener chosen from ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymers, optionally block copolymers, in particular hydrogenated di-block or tri-block copolymers of styrene and olefin, preferably containing one or two ethylenic unsaturations, and / or preferably containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Volatile alkanes

[0021] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one volatile alkane.

[0022] The term “alkane” designates any compound comprising a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, consisting exclusively of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms.

[0023] The term "volatile alkane" suitable for use in the present invention is intended to denote an alkane which is capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101,325 Pa), which is liquid at room temperature, in particular having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm2 / min, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0024] Among the volatile alkanes according to the present invention, mention may be made of:

[0025] volatile linear alkanes;

[0026] volatile branched alkanes;

[0027] and mixtures thereof. a. Volatile linear alkanes

[0028] The volatile linear alkanes suitable for use in the present invention are preferably selected from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0029] As examples of alkanes suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of: alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 and WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols themselves derived from coconut oil or palm oil.

[0030] Examples of linear alkanes suitable for use in the present invention include n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (Ci0 ), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (Ci2), n-tridecane (Cn) and n-tetradecane (Ci4), and mixtures thereof.

[0031] According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 by the company Cognis.

[0032] Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol under the references Parafol 12 97 and Parafol 14 97 respectively, and also mixtures thereof. a. Volatile branched alkanes

[0033] Among the branched volatile alkanes, mention may be made of branched C8-C16 alkanes, for example C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for example isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof. Isododecane and isohexadecane will preferably be used.

[0034] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one volatile alkane chosen from linear C7-Ci4 alkanes, branched C8-Ci6 alkanes and mixtures thereof.

[0035] More preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one volatile alkane chosen from n-undecane (C11), n-tridecane (C13), isododecane, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof.

[0036] Even more preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a combination of n-undecane (C11), n-tridecane (C13), isododecane and isohexadecane.

[0037] The volatile alkane can provide excellent spreadability on hair without greasiness.

[0038] Advantageously, the volatile alkane is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 80% by weight, more preferably from 20% by weight to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] Unsaturated fatty compounds comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain and fatty acid ester oils

[0040] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least a fatty substance selected from unsaturated fatty compounds comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, fatty acid ester oils and mixtures thereof. Unsaturated fatty compounds

[0041] Preferably, the unsaturated fatty compound is chosen from an unsaturated fatty alcohol comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain.

[0042] More preferably, the unsaturated fatty compound is chosen from an unsaturated fatty monoalcohol comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain.

[0043] Even more preferably, the unsaturated fatty compound is chosen from a linear unsaturated fatty monoalcohol comprising a C14-C20 carbon chain.

[0044] In some embodiments, the unsaturated fatty compound is of structure R-OH, wherein R represents a linear alkenyl group comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0045] Most preferably, the unsaturated fatty compound is oleyl alcohol.

[0046] As an example of commercial products of linear unsaturated fatty monoalcohol comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, mention may be made of oleyl alcohol sold under the name HD OCENOL 80 / 85 V / MB by the company BASF or under the name CRODACOL A 10 by CRODA.

[0047] The presence of the unsaturated fatty compound can provide a conditioning effect without a greasy feel. In particular, the unsaturated fatty compound has a strong affinity with damaged hair fibers, especially in a wet state, furthermore, the long chain can provide a nourishing and soft feel. Fatty acid ester oils

[0048] Advantageously, the fatty acid ester oil is chosen from liquid monoesters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, branched in C3-C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoalcohol or polyalcohol branched in C3-C26.

[0049] In the context of the present invention, the term "oil" means a fatty substance which is in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0050] The fatty acid ester oil of the present invention is liquid monoesters of C3-C26 branched saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monobasic acids and C3-C26 branched saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters preferably being greater than or equal to 10, and preferably less than or equal to 30.

[0051] Preferably, the fatty acid ester oil is liquid monoesters of saturated or unsaturated, branched C3-C22 aliphatic monobasic acids and saturated or unsaturated, branched C3-C20 aliphatic monoalcohols. More preferably, the fatty acid ester oil is liquid monoesters of saturated, branched aliphatic monobasic acids in C6-C2o and saturated aliphatic monoalcohols, branched in C2-C6.

[0052] Preferred esters may have the following formula:

[0053] RrC(=O)-O-R2

[0054] in which R 1 represents a branched alkyl radical, preferably branched, of 3 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably of 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a branched alkyl radical, preferably branched, of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0055] Preferably, the total number of carbon atoms of Ri + R2 may be 9 or more, preferably 12 or more, more preferably 16 or more, and most preferably 20 or more.

[0056] The esters may be, for example, hexanoate, nonanoate, isonanoate, caprates, laurates, myristates, palmitates, stearates, isostearates, behenates and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, and isononyl isononanoate.

[0058] Examples of preferable fatty acid ester oils include, for example, isohexyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] The most preferred fatty acid ester oil is isopropyl isostearate.

[0060] The presence of fatty acid ester oil can provide a conditioning effect without a greasy feel.

[0061] Advantageously, the fatty substance chosen from unsaturated fatty compounds comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, fatty acid ester oils and mixtures thereof is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] For the purposes of the present invention, preferably, the composition comprises both an unsaturated fatty compound comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain and a fatty acid ester oil.

[0063] Advantageously, the composition comprises an unsaturated fatty compound comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight and a fatty acid ester oil in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the com- position. Thickeners

[0064] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one thickener chosen from ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymers, optionally block copolymers, in particular diblock or triblock, hydrogenated, of styrene and olefin, preferably containing one or two ethylenic unsaturations, and / or preferably containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickener" designates a compound which is capable, by its presence, at 25°C, of ​​increasing the viscosity of the composition in which it is present, preferably by at least 50 cP (centipoise). Ester-terminated poly(ester-amide)s

[0066] The ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) (ETPEA) polymer is preferably in the form of a resin prepared by reacting a diacid, a diamine, a polyol and a monoalcohol in which: i. at least 50% equivalent of said diacid comprises a polymerized fatty acid and ii. at least 50% equivalent of said diamine comprises ethylenediamine. More preferably, the composition of the resin is such that iii. 10 to 60% equivalent based on all hydroxyl and amine equivalents from the diamine, polyol and monoalcohol are from the monoalcohol, iv. not more than 50% equivalent of all hydroxyl and amine equivalents from the diamine, polyol and monoalcohol are from the polyol.

[0067] Ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) (ETPEA) polymers can be prepared according to the process described in US Patent 6,552,160.

[0068] The diacid is generally an organic molecule containing two carboxylic acid groups or equivalent reactive groups. Preferably, the diacid is a polymerized fatty acid.

[0069] The polymerized fatty acid is generally a mixture comprising an acid dimer and an acid trimer where each dimer may be saturated, unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, etc. The polymerized fatty acid used for the synthesis of the poly(ester-amide) (ETPEA) polymer is preferably an acid dimer.

[0070] The polymerized fatty acid is generally formed by heating long chain unsaturated fatty acids, for example C18> monocarboxylic acids at temperatures of about 200 to 250°C in the presence of a catalytic clay in order to polymerize the fatty acids. The resulting product generally comprises an acid dimer, particularly a C36 dicarboxylic acid formed by dimerization of the fatty acid and an acid trimer, particularly a C54 tricarboxylic acid obtained by trimerization of the carboxylic acid. Further details concerning the polymerization of fatty acids are indicated particularly in US Patent 3,157,681 and the book "Naval Stores—Production, Chemistry and Utilization, D.F. Zinkel and J. Russell (eds.), Pulp. Chem. Assoc. Inc., 1989, Chapter 23".

[0071] Preferably, the polymerized fatty acid contains less than 20% by weight of acid trimer and at least 80% by weight of acid dimer relative to the total weight of the polymerized fatty acid. More particularly, the acid dimer constitutes essentially all of the polymerized fatty acid.

[0072] Among the unsaturated fatty acids used to form the polymerized fatty acid are oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid. It is preferred to use long chain fatty acid oils which are mixtures of long chain unsaturated acids obtained by means of a wood pulping process. Other sources may also be used, such as soybean or rapeseed. The polymerized fatty acid which may be used according to the invention has an acid number of about 180 to 200.

[0073] The polymerized fatty acid may be hydrogenated before being used in the resin-forming reaction. Hydrogenation results in a slightly higher melting point of the resin as well as greater stability to oxidation and color in the case of a lightly colored resin.

[0074] Among the polymerized fatty acids and in particular the hydrogenated forms available commercially, mention may be made of the product sold under the brand name Unidyme by the company Arizona Chemical, the product sold under the brand name Pripol 1015 by the company Uniqema, or the product sold under the brand name Empol 1008 by the company Cognis.

[0075] More particularly, a dimer of C36 hydrogenated linoleic acid will be used as polymerized fatty acid.

[0076] In addition to the polymerized fatty acid or reactive equivalents, the diacid may comprise a co-diacid of formula: HOOC-Ri-COOH where Ri is a C 4-C19, preferably C4-C12 and more preferably C4-C8 hydrocarbon compound.

[0077] The carbon atoms may be arranged in a linear, branched or cyclic form and unsaturation may be present between two adjacent atoms. Ri may be aliphatic or aromatic.

[0078] The diamine reagent has two amine groups which are preferably primary amines and represented by the formula: HN(R2a)—R2 —N(R2a)H in which R2a denotes hydrogen or an alkyl group or otherwise forms, with R2 or another radical R 2a, a heterocycle.

[0079] As diamine, ethylenediamine will be used more particularly, namely: R2a is hydrogen and R2 is -CH2-CH2

[0080] Diamines other than ethylenediamine will be referred to in the text as co-diamines. When present, co-diamines are used in small quantities relative to ethylenediamine.

[0081] The monoalcohol may be represented by the formula R3-OH where R3 is preferably a hydrocarbon group having at least 10 carbon atoms. Thus, the monoalcohol may be described as a monohydric alcohol.

[0082] According to a particular form, R3 is a C10-C30 hydrocarbon group, preferably a C12-C24 hydrocarbon group and even more particularly a C18 hydrocarbon radical. For the purposes of the invention, the term “C10-C30 hydrocarbon group” designates any group having at least 10 carbon atoms but at most 30 carbon atoms. The carbon atoms can be arranged in a linear, branched or cyclic manner and the hydrocarbon radical can be saturated or unsaturated.

[0083] In a particularly preferred form, R3 is linear and the hydroxyl group is located on a terminal carbon: i.e. the monoalcohol is primary. Among the monoalcohols that can be used to prepare the ETPEA resin, mention may be made of 1-dodecanol, 1-tetradecanol, 1-hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), 1-octadecanol (stearyl alcohol), 1-eicosanol (arachidyl alcohol) and 1-docosanol (behenyl alcohol).

[0084] The reactive monoalcohol may contain an alkylene group, namely an alkyl group with unsaturation between two adjacent carbon atoms.

[0085] Another reactive monoalcohol which can be used according to the invention can be a Guerbet alcohol of formula: HC(Ra)(Rb)-CH2-OH where Ra and Rb, which can be identical or different, preferably denote a C6-Ci2 hydrocarbon group. Guerbet alcohols are notably described in the book “Dictionary For Auxiliaries For Pharmacy, Cosmetics And Related Fields”, HP Fiedler, 3rd Ed., 1989, Cantor Aulendorf. 45 Hexadecyldecyltadecanol-2 having 24 carbon atoms will be more particularly used.

[0086] Another type of reactive monoalcohol that can be used according to the invention is a linear alcohol wax. Among the linear alcohol waxes available on the market, mention may be made of the products sold under the brand name Unilin by the company Petrolite Corporation (Tulsa, Okla.). These linear alcohol waxes are generally a mixture of linear alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms and more particularly at least 24 carbon atoms.

[0087] The vapor-pressure osmometry (VPO) technique can be used to characterize the number-average molecular weight of a mixture of alcohols. In one particular form, the mixture of monoal waxes Linear alcohols have a number average molecular weight as measured by VPO of about 200 to about 800, preferably about 300 to about 600. A pure C22 monohydric linear alcohol has a molecular weight as measured by VPO of 326.

[0088] In accordance with the present invention, a pure monoalcohol or a mixture of linear monoalcohols such as, for example: 1-eicosanol (C2o), 1-docosanol (C22, behenyl alcohol), dotriacontanol (C32), tetratriacontanol (C34), pentatriacontanol (C35), tetracontanol (C40), tetraacontanol (C44), dopentaacontanol (C54), tetrahexacontanol (C64), dohexaacontanol (C72) will preferably be used.

[0089] 1-octadecanol, more commonly called stearyl alcohol, will be used more particularly.

[0090] A final ingredient required for the preparation of the ETPEA resin is a polyol or polyhydric alcohol. The structure of the polyol is: IC (OH)n where IC denotes an n-valent organic group. For example, R4 may be a C2-C20 organic group without hydroxyl substitution. As another example, R4 may be a hydrocarbon group, n is generally 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6.

[0091] Among the polyols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, neopentyl glycol, tris(hydroxylmethyl)methanol, dipentaerythritol and tripentaerythritol.

[0092] Neopentyl glycol will be used more particularly.

[0093] Diacid-equivalent reagents and / or diamine-equivalent reagents may also be used to prepare the ETPEA resin. For example, diesters may be used in place of some or all of the diacids in the reaction forming the ETPEA resin. The term "diester" is intended to refer to any esterification product of a diacid with molecules comprising a hydroxyl function. These diesters are preferably obtained from relatively volatile molecules containing hydroxyl functions so that said molecules can be readily removed from the reaction vessel after the reaction of the monoalcohol and / or diamine with the diester.A lower diester, particularly an esterification or diesterification product of a diacid as defined above with a CrC4 monohydric alcohol (i.e. methanol, ethanol, propanol and butanol), may be used in place of some or all of the diacids in the ETPEA resin forming reaction. Acid halides may also be used in place of some or all of the diacids in the ETPEA resin forming reaction. Similarly, the monohydric alcohol may be esterified with a volatile diacid, e.g. acetic acid, before being used in the ETPEA resin forming reaction. These equivalent reactants are not, however, preferred as they introduce reactive groups into the reaction vessel.

[0094] Preferably, the carboxylic acid equivalents must be substantially equal to the combined equivalents of hydroxyl introduced by the monoalcohol and the polyol and of the amine introduced by the diamine. In other words, each of the acid and amine numbers of the resin according to the invention must preferably be less than 25, more preferably less than 15 and more particularly less than 10, more particularly less than 5.

[0095] When a co-diacid is used to prepare the ETPEA resin, the co-diacid should not represent more than 50% of the carboxylic acid equivalents in the reaction mixture. In other words, the co-diacid represents from 0 to 50% of equivalents, more preferably from 0 to 25% and even more preferably from 0 to 10% of the acid equivalents in the reaction mixture.

[0096] When a co-diamine is used to prepare the ETPEA resin, the co-diacid should not represent more than 50% of the carboxylic acid equivalents in the reaction mixture. In other words, the co-diamine represents from 0 to 50% of equivalents, more preferably from 0 to 25% and even more preferably from 0 to 10% of the acid equivalents in the reaction mixture.

[0097] The hydroxyl equivalents from the polyol are preferably less than or equal to 50% relative to all the hydroxyl equivalents and amine equivalents introduced by the polyol, monoalcohol and diamine reactants. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydroxyl equivalents from the polyol may be less than or equal to 40%, or less than or equal to 30% or even less than or equal to 20% relative to all the hydroxyl equivalents and amine equivalents introduced by the polyol, monoalcohol and diamine reactants.

[0098] The amine equivalents preferably range from 0.3 to 0.75 relative to all the hydroxyl equivalents and amine equivalents introduced by the polyol, monoalcohol and diamine reactants. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydroxyl equivalents originating from the polyol range from 0.05 to 0.45 relative to all the hydroxyl equivalents and amine equivalents introduced by the polyol, monoalcohol and diamine reactants. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydroxyl equivalents originating from the monoalcohol range from 0.20 to 0.45 relative to all the hydroxyl equivalents and amine equivalents introduced by the polyol, monoalcohol and diamine reactants.

[0099] Preferably, the ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymer is selected from copolymers of hydrogenated dilinoleic acid, ethylenediamine, C2-C6 glycol and C10-C22 monoalcohol.

[0100] More particularly, an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymer with the INCI name Polyamide-8 will be used, which is a copolymer of hydrogenated dilinoleic acid, ethylenediamine, neopentyl glycol and stearyl alcohol. This copolymer is notably sold under the trade name Oleocrapht® LP-20-PA sold by Croda company.

[0101] Optionally hydrogenated block copolymers of esterrene and olefin

[0102] Examples of olefins that may be used include ethylenic carbide monomers, particularly containing one or two ethylenic unsaturations and containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butylene, butadiene or isoprene.

[0103] The block polymer type polymeric thickener is preferably hydrogenated to reduce residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.

[0104] In particular, said thickener is an optionally hydrogenated copolymer, carrying styrene and ethylene sequences and / or C2-C5 and in particular C2-C4 alkylene sequences, and in particular butylene or propylene.

[0105] In a particular embodiment, the thickener is a diblock copolymer, which is preferably hydrogenated, carrying styrene blocks and C2-C4 ethylene / alkylene blocks, more particularly a diblock copolymer, which is preferably hydrogenated, carrying styrene blocks and ethylene / propylene blocks (INCI: stryrene / isoprene copolymer) or ethylene / butylene blocks. Mention may also be made of diblock copolymers, which are preferably hydrogenated, carrying styrene and ethylene / butadiene blocks. These diblock polymers are commercially available under the name Kraton G1701 by the company Kraton Polymers.

[0106] The thickener may also be a triblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, chosen from styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers and styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers. These triblock polymers are notably commercially available under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® G1652, Kraton® DI 101, Kraton® DI 102 and Kraton® DI 160 by the company Kraton Polymers.

[0107] A mixture of hydrogenated styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock copolymer and hydrogenated ethylene-propylene-styrene star polymer may also be used, this mixture being in particular in isododecane. These mixtures are sold, for example, by the company Penreco under the trade names Versagel® M5960 and Versagel® M5670.

[0108] Preferably, the thickeners are chosen from copolymers of hydrogenated dilinolic acid, ethylenediamine, C2-C6 glycol and C10-C22 monoalcohol, diblock copolymers, which are preferably hydrogenated, carrying styrene blocks and C2-C4 ethylene / alkylene blocks, more particularly copolymers, which are preferably hydrogenated, carrying blocks of styrene and ethylene / ethylene or ethylene / propylene or ethylene / butylene sequences, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] More preferably, the thickener is chosen from a hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer, a hydrogenated styrene / butadiene copolymer, a styrene / isoprene copolymer, bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentyl glycol / hydrogenated stearyl dimer di-linoleate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] The thickener suitable for the present invention is highly compatible with the oil used in the composition of the present invention so as to provide the correct viscosity.

[0111] Advantageously, the thickener is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] Linear C15-C19 alkanes and branched C17-C19 alkanes

[0113] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention further comprises a linear C15-C19 alkane and / or a branched C17-C19 alkane, in particular, a branched C17-C19 alkane.

[0114] Advantageously, if present, the linear C15-19 alkane and / or the C17-C19 alkane, in particular the C17-C19 alkane, is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 10% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic active ingredients

[0115] Optionally, the composition of the present invention may comprise another cosmetic active ingredient for conditioning hair, for example oil-soluble plant extracts.

[0116] If present, advantageously, the cosmetic active ingredient is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Adjuvants

[0117] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other ingredients, such as perfumes, et cetera.

[0118] A person skilled in the art can choose the amount of additional adjuvants so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0119] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition silicone-free hair conditioner comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 20% by weight to 80% by weight of at least one volatile alkane chosen from linear C7-Ci4 alkanes, branched C8-Ci6 alkanes and mixtures thereof; a. from 2% to 10% by weight of oleyl alcohol and from 2% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one fatty acid ester oil selected from ethyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate and mixtures thereof; and b. from 2% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one thickener selected from a hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer, a hydrogenated styrene / butadiene copolymer, a styrene / isoprene copolymer, a bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentyl glycol / hydrogenated stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer and mixtures thereof. Preparation and use

[0120] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to c), as essential ingredients, as well as one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.

[0121] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0122] Although the composition according to the present invention does not comprise silicone, it can provide a wet / dry cosmeticity / conditioning effect similar to that of silicone base oil compositions.

[0123] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a conditioning product with or without rinsing for hair care.

[0124] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a hair revitalization process comprising applying the composition as described above to the hair. EXAMPLES

[0125] The following examples are given for the purpose of illustration of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope.

[0126] The main raw materials used, trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0127] [Tableauxl] INCI name Trade name Supplier Undecane (and) Tridecane CETIOL® ULTIMATE BASF Isohexadecane ISOHEXADECANE INEOS Oleyl alcohol HD OCENOL 80 / 85 V / MB BASF Isopropyl isostearate Radia 7739 OLEON Hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer ELLAMERA BI THIN 602 KRATON POLYMERS Dextrin palmitate RHEOPEARL TL2-OR CHIBA FLOUR MILLING Polyamide 8 OleoCraft LP-20 CRODA C15-19alkane EMOGREEN L15 SEPPIC Dimethicone (60000 est) BELSIL DM 60000 WACKER

[0128] Inventive Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-3

[0129] Leave-in oils according to the inventive examples (E1.) 1-5 and comparative examples (EC) 1-3 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of ingredients relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated).

[0130] [Tables2] Components EI.l El. 2 EL3 EI.4 EL 5 EC.l EC. 2 EC.3 Undecane (and) Tridecane Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Isohexadecane 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 Oleyl alcohol 5 5 5 0 5 5 5 5 Isopropyl isostearate 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 0 C15-19alkane 0 0 0 0 20 0 0 0 Hydrogenated Styrene / Isoprene Copolymer 4 6 0 4 4 0 0 4 Dextrin Palmitate 0 0 0 0 0 4 6 0 Polyamide-8* 0 0 5 0 0 0 0 0 Dimethicone (60000 est) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 10

[0131] Polyamide-8* is a copolymer of Bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentyl glycol / hydrogenated stearyl dimer dilinoleate.

[0132] The compositions of Inventive Examples 1-5 represent compositions according to the present invention.

[0133] The compositions of Comparative Examples 1-2 comprise dextrin palmitate instead of a thickener according to the present invention.

[0134] The composition of Comparative Example 3 comprises a silicone oil.

[0135] Preparation procedure:

[0136] Each leave-in oil was prepared as follows, taking that of inventive example 1 as an example: • adding oleyl alcohol and isopropyl isostearate, hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer to a beaker, heating to 80°C with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained; and • addition of undecane (and) tridecane and isohexadecane into the beaker at room temperature with stirring to obtain a homogeneous composition. Assessment

[0137] The leave-in oils prepared above were evaluated in terms of stability, conditioning effect and light feeling as follows. Stability

[0138] The appearance and odor of each composition prepared above were checked after storage at 10°C for 24 hours, 4°C for 1 or 2 months, 45°C for 1 or 2 months and 50°C for 1 or 2 weeks.

[0139] If there is no obvious difference in appearance and odor after storage under all conditions, then the test composition was considered stable, otherwise, the test composition was considered unstable. Revitalizing effect and feeling of lightness

[0140] Hair strands were washed with silicone-free shampoo (0.4 g / per gram of hair strand) and towel dried until no more water dripped.

[0141] Then, 0.1 to 0.12 g of each leave-in oil obtained above was applied evenly to 6 g of hair strand, respectively from mid to ends, and then dried with a hair dryer.

[0142] Then, the revitalizing effect and the feeling of lightness provided by each leave-in oil were ranked from 1 to 8 by 4 trained experts, where rank 1 represents the best, and rank 8 represents the worst.

[0143] The results of stability, revitalizing effect and feeling of lightness were summarized in Table 3.

[0144] [Tables3] Properties ELI El. 2 El. 3 EL 4 EL 5 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Revitalization 1 2 2 2 1 3 4 2 Lightness 2 3 3 2 1 2 3 8 Stability Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable Unstable Unstable Stable

[0145] From Table 3, it can be seen that each leave-in oil of inventive examples 1-5 is stable and can provide a good revitalizing effect and a light feeling, i.e., does not provide a greasy feeling.

Claims

Claims

1. A silicone-free hair conditioning composition comprising: a) at least one volatile alkane; b) at least one fatty substance selected from unsaturated fatty compounds comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, fatty acid ester oils and mixtures thereof; and c) at least one thickener selected from ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) polymers, optionally block copolymers, in particular hydrogenated diblock or triblock copolymers of styrene and olefin, preferably containing one or two ethylenic unsaturations, and / or preferably containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the volatile alkane is selected from linear C7-C14 alkanes, branched C8-C16 alkanes and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1-2, wherein the unsaturated fatty compound is selected from an unsaturated fatty alcohol comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, preferably from an unsaturated fatty monoalcohol comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, more preferably from a linear unsaturated fatty monoalcohol comprising a C14-C20 carbon chain, most preferably the unsaturated fatty compound is oleyl alcohol.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the fatty acid ester oil is selected from liquid monoesters of saturated or unsaturated, branched C3-C22 aliphatic monoacids and saturated or unsaturated, branched C3-C20 aliphatic monoalcohols, preferably the fatty acid ester oil is selected from liquid monoesters of saturated, branched C6-C20 aliphatic monoacids and saturated, branched C2-C6 aliphatic monoalcohols.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the fatty acid ester oil is selected from esters having the following formula: RrC(=O)-O-R2 wherein R1 represents a branched alkyl radical of 3 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably of 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched alkyl radical of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably the total number of carbon atoms carbon of Ri + R2 may be 9 or more, preferably 12 or more, more preferably 16 or more, and most preferably 20 or more.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the fatty acid ester oil is selected from isohexyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof, preferably the fatty acid ester oil is isopropyl isostearate.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the thickener is selected from: - resins prepared by reacting a diacid, a diamine, a polyol and a monoalcohol in which: (i) at least 50% equivalent of said diacid comprises a polymerized fatty acid and (ii) at least 50% equivalent of said diamine comprises ethylenediamine; - diblock copolymers, which are preferably hydrogenated, bearing styrene blocks and ethylene / C2-C4 alkylene blocks, more particularly a diblock copolymer, which is preferably hydrogenated, bearing styrene blocks and ethylene / ethylene or ethylene / propylene or ethylene / butylene blocks; - diblock copolymers, preferably hydrogenated, bearing styrene and ethylene / butadiene blocks;- triblock copolymers, which are preferably hydrogenated, of styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene, styrene-isoprene-styrene or styrene-butadiene-styrene; - a mixture of hydrogenated triblock copolymer styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene and hydrogenated star polymer ethylene-propylene-styrene; and - mixtures thereof.;

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the thickener is selected from copolymers of hydrogenated dilinolic acid, ethylenediamine, C2-C6 glycol monoalcohol and C10-C22 monoalcohol, diblock copolymers, which are preferably hydrogenated, bearing styrene blocks and ethylene / C2-C4 alkylene blocks and mixtures thereof, preferably the thickener is selected from a hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer, a hydrogenated styrene / butadiene copolymer, a styrene / isoprene copolymer, a Bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentyl glycol / hydrogenated stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer their mixtures.

9. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 20% by weight to 80% by weight of at least one volatile alkane chosen from linear C7-Ci4 alkanes, branched C8-Ci6 alkanes and mixtures thereof; b) from 2% by weight to 10% by weight of oleyl alcohol and from 2% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one fatty acid ester oil chosen from ethyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate and mixtures thereof; and c) from 2% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one thickener selected from a hydrogenated styrene / isoprene copolymer, a hydrogenated styrene / butadiene copolymer, a styrene / isoprene copolymer and a bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentyl glycol / hydrogenated stearyl di-linoleate dimer copolymer.

10. A process for revitalizing hair comprising applying the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 to the hair.