COMPOSITION ADAPTED TO KERATIN FIBERS

FR3151206B3Active Publication Date: 2025-08-15LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2023008991
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-07-20
Filing Date
2023-08-28
Publication Date
2025-08-15
Estimated Expiration
2033-08-28

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing methods for smoothing keratin fibers, such as hair, either provide temporary results with heated irons or require long treatment times and damage with traditional chemical processes, lacking a sustainable and damage-free solution for lasting styling.

Method used

A composition comprising glyoxylic acid or its derivatives and ketonic acids, with specific weight percentages, is applied to keratin fibers, followed by heating to shape and smooth the fibers, without ammonia or thiol compounds, enhancing texture, resistance, and humidity resistance.

Benefits of technology

The composition provides keratin fibers with a moisturizing sensation, improved texture, and long-lasting smoothness, reducing frizz and damage, while maintaining style under humid conditions, without the drawbacks of conventional methods.

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Abstract

COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR KERATIN FIBERS The present invention relates mainly to a composition for keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and (b) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketoic acids, their salts and mixtures thereof, wherein the amount of compound(s) (a) in the composition is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount of compound(s) (b) in the composition is 10% by weight or less. The present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with good texture, strength and moisture resistance which can prolong the shaping effects. Figure for abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION ADAPTED TO KERATIN FIBERS Technical field

[0001] The present invention mainly relates to a composition which is suitable for shaping, preferably smoothing, keratin fibers such as hair. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Straightening keratin fibers such as hair by heating the keratin fibers with an iron is common, making unruly keratin fibers manageable and reducing the volume and improving the appearance of the keratin fibers. Such a straightening method using a heated iron is convenient for quick styling, but the hairstyle only lasts for a short time, for example until the next shampoo. Many consumers need a long-lasting straightening method.

[0003] On the other hand, conventional permanent straightening methods using a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, as well as an oxidizing agent, with heating, can provide keratin fibers with long-lasting styling, but they have several disadvantages such as a long processing time, damage to the keratin fibers and a bad odor.

[0004] Document WO 2014 / 131469 discloses a method for straightening keratin fibers by heating with an iron, without the use of reducing and oxidizing agents, in which glyoxylic acid is used to straighten the keratin fibers. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0005] It remains necessary to improve the shaping of keratin fibers based on treatment of the keratin fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof.

[0006] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition useful for shaping keratin fibers such as hair, based on treating the keratin fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, and which can provide the keratin fibers with a good texture such as a moisturizing feel, strength and humidity resistance which can prolong the effects of shaping.

[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition for shaping keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof and b. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0008] in which

[0009] the amount of (a) compound(s) of the composition is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and

[0010] the amount of the (b) compound(s) in the composition is 10% by weight or less.

[0011] The amount of the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] Compound (b) may be selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.

[0013] The amount of compound (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (c) water.

[0015] The quantity (c) of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% to 95% by weight, preferably 30% to 90% by weight and more preferably 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] The composition according to the present invention may further include (d) at least one betaine compound.

[0017] The betaine compound (d) may be selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine and L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof.

[0018] The amount of the betaine compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less.

[0020] The composition according to the present invention may not comprise any ammonia or thiol compound, or may comprise less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of ammonia or a thiol compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The composition according to the present invention may not comprise any reducing agent or oxidizing agent, or may comprise less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] The composition according to the present invention may be intended to shape, preferably smooth, keratin fibers such as hair.

[0023] In one embodiment, the present invention may relate to a composition, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof in an amount of more than 5% by weight, preferably more than 6% by weight and, more preferably, more than 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; a. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of keto acids (in particular, levulinic acid), salts thereof and mixtures thereof, in an amount of 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferably 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. b. water.

[0024] The present invention also relates to a process for shaping, preferably smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps:

[0025] (i) application of the composition according to the present invention to the kera fibers tinics.

[0026] (ii) optional rinsing of the keratin fibers with or without drying of the keratin fibers after rinsing and

[0027] (lii) shaping, preferably smoothing the keratin fibers at a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and, better still, more than 150°C.

[0028] In one embodiment, the present invention also relates to a method for shaping, preferably smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: i. application of a composition to keratin fibers; ii. possible rinsing of the keratin fibers, with or without drying of the keratin fibers after rinsing and iii. shaping, preferably smoothing of keratin fibers, preferably at a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and better still more than 150°C,

[0029] in which

[0030] the composition comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, acid esters glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof in an amount of more than 5% by weight, preferably more than 6% by weight and, more preferably, more than 7% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; a. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of keto acids (in particular, levulinic acid), salts thereof and mixtures thereof, in an amount of 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferably 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. b. water.

[0031] The present invention also relates to a kit for shaping, preferably straightening keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0032] at least one element selected from the group consisting of an iron, a curler, a comb, a hair dryer and a combination thereof, preferably at least one heating iron, a heating curler, a heating comb or a hair dryer, which is capable of providing the keratin fibers with a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C, and more preferably above 150°C; and

[0033] the composition according to the present invention. Brief description of the drawings

[0034] [Fig-1] [Fig.l] represents a schematic view of the manner of determining the bending angles for Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4. Best mode for carrying out the invention

[0035] After diligent research, the inventors found that it is possible to provide a composition useful for shaping keratin fibers such as hair, based on treating the keratin fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, and which can provide the keratin fibers with a good texture such as a moisturizing feel, strength and humidity resistance which can prolong the remodeling effects.

[0036] Thus, the present invention mainly relates to a composition for keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and a. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0037] in which

[0038] the amount of (a) compound(s) of the composition is less than 15% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition and

[0039] the amount of the (b) compound(s) in the composition is 10% by weight or less.

[0040] The present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with good texture, strength and humidity resistance which can prolong the shaping effects.

[0041] The shaping of keratin fibers, such as hair, here includes the straightening or curling of the keratin fibers.

[0042] The present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with a good texture such as a moisturizing feel to the touch.

[0043] The present invention can shape or deform keratin fibers such as hair. In addition, keratin fibers that have been treated with the present invention can be flexible.

[0044] The present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with strength and moisture. Thus, for example, keratin fibers that have been treated with the present invention to be straight, have less frizz and can show good alignment for a long time, even under humid or wet conditions provided, for example, by rain or perspiration. Therefore, for example, the present invention can provide good combability of the hair.

[0045] The present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair with longer-lasting shaping effects. Thus, the present invention can lengthen or prolong the shaping effects of keratin fibers provided by the use of a composition including only glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the straightened or curled shape of keratin fibers, or can prevent or reduce the loss of the straightened or curled shape of keratin fibers over time.

[0046] For example, if the keratin fibers are originally wavy, the present invention may provide better prevention against the keratin fibers returning to their original wavy shape, after straightening the keratin fibers, particularly after shampooing.

[0047] If the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one betaine compound, the betaine compound may contribute to lengthening or prolonging the shaping effects for keratin fibers provided by glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof. In particular, the use of the betaine compound may contribute to maintaining the straightened or curled shape of the keratin fibers provided by glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, or to preventing or reducing the return of the keratin fibers to their original shape.

[0048] The present invention can also confer on keratin fibers effects of immediate shaping. For example, keratin fibers treated with the present invention to be straight may have less volume or less frizz due to the reduction of curls in the keratin fibers. The shaping effects imparted by the present invention may last for a long time, for example, even after shampooing the keratin fibers. Thus, the present invention may also impart good shampoo resistance to the shape of the keratin fibers.

[0049] The present invention can cause less damage to keratin fibers compared to conventional permanent shaping methods, because the present invention does not need to use reducing / oxidizing agents. Therefore, it can be easy to comb the keratin fibers treated by the present invention. Thus, the keratin fibers treated by the present invention can be easy to manage. Furthermore, the keratin fibers treated by the present invention can be stronger than those treated by conventional shaping methods.

[0050] Furthermore, the present invention can use little or no ammonia or thiol compound and, therefore, the odor during the use of the present invention can be reduced compared to conventional methods which require the use of ammonia or a thiol compound. In addition, the present invention can have good ease of use, for example, a short processing time.

[0051] The present invention will now be described in detail. [Composition]

[0052] The composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of: glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and a. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of keto acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0053] in which

[0054] the amount of (a) compound(s) of the composition is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and

[0055] the amount of the (b) compound(s) in the composition is 10% by weight or less.

[0056] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for shaping, such as straightening, keratin fibers, and even more preferably a one-step cosmetic composition for shaping, such as straightening, keratin fibers. It is particularly preferable that the keratin fibers are hair.

[0057] (Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives)

[0058] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof.

[0059] A single type of compound (a) may be used, or two or more different types of compounds (a) may be used in combination.

[0060] Compound (a) is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof. In other words, compound (a) is selected from glyoxylic acid and derivatives thereof.

[0061] As glyoxylic acid solvates, mention may be made, for example, of glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.

[0062] Examples of salts of glyoxylic acid that may be mentioned include alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate, and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.

[0063] Examples of glyoxylic acid esters that may be mentioned are glyoxylic acid alkyl esters such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.

[0064] Examples of glyoxylic acid amides that may be mentioned include N-glyoxyloylcarbocysteine ​​and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acids.

[0065] It is preferable to use glyoxylic acid as compound (a).

[0066] The amount of the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] The amount of compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 14% by weight and, even better, less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] Therefore, the amount of the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to less than 14% by weight and more preferably from 1% to less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] In one embodiment, the amount of the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 12% by weight or less, preferably 11% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] Therefore, the amount of the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 11% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] In another embodiment, the amount of compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight, preferably more than 6% by weight, and even better, 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] Thus, in this embodiment, the amount of the (a) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than 5% and less than 15% by weight, preferably greater than 6% and less than 14% by weight, and more preferably greater than 7% and less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or greater than 5% and 12% by weight or less, preferably greater than 6% and 11% by weight or less, and more preferably greater than 7% and 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] (Keto acid)

[0074] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one compound, different from the (a) compound, selected from ketonic acids, their salts and their mixtures. Two or more of the (b) compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (b) compound or a combination of different types of (b) compounds may be used.

[0075] The ketonic acids may be chosen from α-keto acids, β-keto acids, γ-keto acids and mixtures thereof.

[0076] The α-keto acids may be compounds represented by the general formula (I):

[0077] R'-C(=O)-COOH (I)

[0078] in which

[0079] R1 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0080] Examples of α-keto acids include pyruvic acid.

[0081] The [3-keto] acids can be represented by the general formula (II):

[0082] R2-C(=O)-R3-COOH (II)

[0083] in which

[0084] R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom and

[0085] R3 denotes a methylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0086] Examples of [3-keto acids] include acetoacetic acid.

[0087] γ-Keto acids can be represented by the general formula (III):

[0088] R2-C(=O)-R4-COOH (III)

[0089] in which

[0090] R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and

[0091] R4 denotes an ethylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0092] Examples of γ-keto acids include levulinic acid.

[0093] The ketonic acid salts may be alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of ketonic acid such as sodium or potassium salts of ketonic acid, and magnesium or calcium salts of ketonic acid.

[0094] It is preferable to use, as compound(s) (b), γ-keto acid, and more preferably, levulinic acid and / or a salt thereof such as sodium levulinate.

[0095] The amount of the compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] The amount of the (b) compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less and, more preferably, 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] Therefore, the amount of the compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] In one embodiment, the amount of the compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] Therefore, the amount of the compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] In another embodiment, the amount of compounds (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] In another embodiment, the compound(s) (b) may be present in a lower amount than the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention. For example, the weight ratio of the amount of the compound(s) (a) to the amount of the compound(s) (b) included in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1:1 to 15:1, preferably from 1:1 to 10:1, and more preferably from 1:1 to 4:1.

[0102] (Water)

[0103] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (c) water.

[0104] Therefore, if the composition according to the present invention comprises water (c), the composition according to the present invention is not anhydrous.

[0105] The amount (c) of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more and, more preferably, 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Furthermore, the amount of water (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] The amount of water (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight and better still from 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] (Betaine compound)

[0109] The composition according to the present invention may include (d) at least one betaine compound. A single type of betaine compound (d) may be used, or two or more different types of betaine compounds (d) may be used in combination.

[0110] The term "betaine compound" herein refers to an amphoteric compound having a positively charged cationic moiety and a negatively charged anionic moiety, wherein no hydrogen atom is bonded to a positively charged atom in the positively charged cationic moiety and the positively charged cationic moiety may not be adjacent to the negatively charged anionic moiety.

[0111] For the purposes of the present invention, the betaine compound (d) herein is not a surfactant, which comprises at least one hydrophilic portion and at least one hydrophobic portion.

[0112] The positively charged cationic moiety in the betaine compound (d) includes, but is not limited to, a quaternary ammonium cation, a phosphonium cation, and a sulfonium cation. Preferably, the betaine compound (d) includes a quaternary ammonium cation as the positively charged cationic moiety.

[0113] The negatively charged anionic moiety in the betaine compound (d) comprises, in particular, a carboxylate anion.

[0114] The betaine compound (d) may be selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine, L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof, and may preferably be trimethylglycine.

[0115] The amount of the betaine compound(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] The amount of the betaine compound(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] The amount of the betaine compound(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] (pH)

[0119] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less, which is measured at 25°C.

[0120] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 3 or more, which is measured at 25°C.

[0121] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 6 and more preferably 3 to 5, which is measured at 25°C.

[0122] (Alkaline agent)

[0123] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.

[0124] The alkaline agent is different from the betaine compound (d).

[0125] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention includes one or more alkaline agent(s), if compound (a) or compound (b) can serve to reduce the pH of the composition.

[0126] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the alkaline agent is non-volatile. It is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0127] Examples of the inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of the alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As the inorganic alkali agent, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable.

[0128] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.

[0129] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups. In particular, the alkanolamines may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

[0130] Diamines can be described by the structure (B) below: R R.

[0131] wherein W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd denote, independently, a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof.

[0132] The amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0133] Furthermore, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] Therefore, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] (Acid)

[0136] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid which is different from compound (a) or compound (b) (as well as betaine compound (d), if applicable). Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

[0137] The acid can be used to correct the pH of the composition according to the present invention.

[0138] As acid, mention may be made of all inorganic or organic acids, preferably inorganic, which are commonly used in cosmetic products, such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HCl). HCl is preferred.

[0139] The amount of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] Furthermore, the amount of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] Therefore, the amount of the acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] (Other optional ingredients)

[0143] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one other optional ingredient, chosen in particular from: oils, preferably polar oils, and more preferably ester oils, in the form of a liquid at 25°C under atmospheric pressure; solid fatty substances and in particular C8-C40 esters, C8-C40 acids and C8-C40 alcohols, at 25°C under atmospheric pressure; thickeners; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; antibacterial agents such as benzoic acid, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, chelating agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, in particular conditioning polymers, such as cationic polymers; perfumes; silanes;crosslinking agents and surfactants including anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants. The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients listed above. ;

[0144] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; other polyols such as glycerol; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers.

[0145] Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the above optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal amounts which may be fa The quantities of these ingredients are determined by a person skilled in the art and may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as the quantities thereof, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions used for the present invention.

[0146] (Ammonia and thiol compound)

[0147] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is free of ammonia or a thiol compound. The expression "free of ammonia or a thiol compound" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of ammonia or a thiol compound. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or a thiol compound, in particular no ammonia or a thiol compound.

[0148] Due to the very small amount or absence of ammonia and / or thiol compound, the bad odor during use of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced or prevented.

[0149] The thiol compound herein refers to a compound which has at least one thiol group (-SH).

[0150] The thiol compound may be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, in particular its C1-C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and its derivatives, in particular its esters; cysteine ​​and its derivatives, including its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine ​​and cysteine ​​alkyl esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, including its s-alkyl derivatives, and its salts.

[0151] As the above salts, mention may be made, for example, of ammonium salts; primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts. As primary, secondary or tertiary amine, for example, mention may be made respectively of monoethanolamine, di-isopropanolamine or triethanolamine.

[0152] Other examples of thiol reducing agent include, but are not limited to, N-mercapto alkyl sugar amides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, [3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives; thiomalic acid; panthetine; N-(mercaptoalkyl)co-hydroxyalkyl amides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 368 763; aminomer-captoalkyl amides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 432 000 and alkylaminomer-captoalkylamides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 514 282; 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2 / 3) and the mixture based on 2-hydroxymethyl-1-ethyl thioglycolate (67 / 33) described in French patent application No. 2 679 448.

[0153] (Reducing agent and oxidizing agent)

[0154] The composition according to the present invention may comprise a reducing agent; however, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprises a reduced amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent, preferably is free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent.

[0155] The expression "free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in particular no reducing agent or no oxidizing agent.

[0156] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is as described above.

[0157] The non-thiol reducing agent herein refers to a reducing agent without a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites and, more preferably, from sodium sulfites and bisulfites.

[0158] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricynaides, peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.

[0159] (Shape)

[0160] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

[0161] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any dosage form. For example, the compositions used for the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel and the like.

[0162] The composition according to the present invention can be used to treat, preferably shape and, better still, smooth keratin fibers such as hair. [Process]

[0163] The present invention also relates to a method for shaping, preferably smoothing keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: i. application of the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance: ii. possible rinsing of the keratin fibers, with or without drying of the keratin fibers after rinsing and iii. shaping, preferably straightening of keratin fibers at a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and, more preferably, more than 150°C.

[0164] The details of the composition used in the method according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Composition] above.

[0165] The method according to the present invention is intended for shaping, preferably straightening, keratin fibers, such as hair, preferably for straightening for a long period and, even better, for straightening even after several shampoos. In this sense, the method according to the present invention may be a shaping method, preferably a semi-permanent straightening method.

[0166] It is preferable to clean the keratin fibers before step (i). This cleaning step can be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratin fibers and then rinsing the keratin fibers. After rinsing, the keratin fibers can be dried. It is preferable that the keratin fibers are wet just before step (i).

[0167] In step (i), the composition according to the present invention, which is explained above, is applied to keratin fibers such as hair. The application of the composition according to the present invention can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.

[0168] The solution ratio of the composition applied to the keratin fibers according to the present invention may range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The expression "solution ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of the keratin fibers.

[0169] It may be possible, after application of the composition according to the present invention, to leave the keratin fibers as they are for a certain period of time; generally from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and better still from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate into the keratin fibers.

[0170] After step (i), the process according to the present invention may comprise an optional step (ii) of rinsing the keratin fibers with or without drying the keratin fibers after rinsing.

[0171] Thus, if step (ii) is present, the keratin fibers are rinsed in order to remove the composition of the keratin fibers according to the present invention. The rinsing step can be carried out with water. It is preferable that the keratin fibers are not dried after being rinsed. The drying of the keratin fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying means such as a hair dryer.

[0172] On the other hand, if step (ii) is not present, the keratin fibers can be treated by step (iii) after step (i), without rinsing.

[0173] In step (iii), the keratin fibers, which are preferably dry, are subjected to shaping, preferably straightening, preferably at a temperature of more than 50°C, more preferably more than 100°C and even more preferably more than 150°C, with a heating element, such as a heating iron and a heating curler. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C, and even more preferably less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0174] Shaping may be performed by exerting on the keratin fibers any mechanical force such as mechanical tension. The mechanical force may be applied to the keratin fibers by any shaping means to deform the keratin fibers into a desired shape. For example, the mechanical power may be provided by at least one shaping means selected from the group consisting of at least one iron, at least one curler, at least one comb, and a combination thereof. Any conventional iron, curler, or comb may be used as the shaping means. A dryer that can blow gas such as air may also be used as the shaping means.

[0175] The shaping means may comprise at least one heating device. Thus, the shaping means may be at least one heating iron and / or at least one heating curler and / or at least one heating comb and / or at least one hair dryer which can blow hot gas such as hot air. It may be preferable to use at least one heated iron and / or at least one heated curler.

[0176] As a heating iron, any conventional heating iron can be used. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which can be heated, for example, by electrical heating. The heated plate(s) can be applied to the keratin fibers and moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten them.

[0177] It is preferable that the heating iron has two plates, and that the keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, in which at least one of the plates can be heated, and then the two plates are moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten them.

[0178] It is preferable that the heating iron, in particular a portion thereof in contact with keratin fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0179] Step (iii) may be carried out by one or more passes of the heating iron in the direction of the keratin fibers. Step (iii) may be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of passes of the heating iron.

[0180] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of passes of the heating iron. It may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably, from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0181] Any heated curler can be used as a heated curler. If the keratin fibers are wound around a heated curler, this winding can be carried out over the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, over half the length of the keratin fibers. Depending, for example, on the desired hairstyle shape and the amount of curls, the winding can be carried out with more or less thick strands.

[0182] It is preferable that the heated curler, in particular a portion thereof in contact with keratin fibers, such as a heating plate or a heating coating, has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0183] Step (iii) may be carried out by holding the keratin fibers on a curling iron so that mechanical tension is applied to the keratin fibers. Step (iii) may be controlled not only by the temperature of the heated curler but also by the strength of the mechanical tension.

[0184] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heated curler but also on the resistance of the mechanical tension. It may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0185] If necessary, before step (ii), mechanical tension can be exerted on the keratin fibers as explained above. [Kit]

[0186] The present invention also relates to a kit for shaping, preferably straightening, keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0187] at least one element selected from the group consisting of an iron, a curler, a comb, a hair dryer and a combination thereof, preferably at least one heating iron, a heating curler, a heating comb or a hair dryer, which is capable of providing the keratin fibers with a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C and, more preferably, above 150°C and

[0188] the composition according to the present invention.

[0189] Any conventional hair straightener or curler, including any conventional heated hair straightener or curler, may be used as the above hair straightener or curler in the kit according to the present invention.

[0190] The heated straightening or curling iron of the kit according to the present invention is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and, more preferably, more than 150°C. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C and, more preferably, less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be greater than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably greater than 100°C and less than 240°C and, more preferably, greater than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0191] The heated hair straightener or curler, as well as the composition, in the kit according to the present invention can be used as explained in the section entitled [Method] above.

[0192] The details of the composition used in the kit according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Composition] above. [Use]

[0193] The present invention may also relate to a use of: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof and

[0194] (b) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of in ketonic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0195] in a composition for shaping, preferably smoothing, keratin fibers such as hair, preferably with heating, in which

[0196] the amount of (a) compound(s) of the composition is less than 15% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition and

[0197] the amount of the (b) compound(s) in the composition is 10% by weight or less.

[0198] in order to provide keratin fibers such as hair treated with the composition with good texture, strength and resistance to humidity,

[0199] and / or

[0200] in order to prolong the shaping effects of the keratin fibers by the composition, in particular in order to further maintain the straight shape of the keratin fibers or to prevent or reduce the waviness of the keratin fibers.

[0201] The heating is not limited as long as it can heat the keratin fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and, more preferably, more than 150°C. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C and, more preferably, less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be greater than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably greater than 100°C and less than 240°C and, more preferably, greater than 150°C and less than 230°C.

[0202] The above composition may further comprise (c) water and / or (d) at least one betaine compound.

[0203] The above explanations concerning compound (a), compound (b), water (c), as well as betaine (d), can be applied to those in the above composition used for use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0204] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 [Preparation]

[0205] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The numerical values ​​for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0206] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Ex. Comp. 3 Ex. Comp. 4 Dipropylene glycol 10.1 10.1 10.1 10.1 10.1 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Glyoxylic acid (50% by weight of MA) (1) 14 - 14 30 14 Levulinic acid (60% by weight of MA) (2) 4 - - 4 18.2 pH regulator qs pH 3 qs pH 3 qs pH 3 qs pH 3 qs pH 3 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Texture 4 3 3 3 3 Flexural strength (°) 74.3 62.4 67.3 65.5 57.6

[0207] AM: Active ingredient 1. marketed by the company WEYLCHEM under the name GLYOXO-HIGH PURE 50 (containing 50% active ingredient). 2. marketed by the company DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK) under the name DERMOSOFT 700 B (containing 60% active ingredient). [Evaluations]

[0208] (Texture)

[0209] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was used to treat a lock of hair (1.0 g, 27 cm) in accordance with the following steps. 1. The hair strand was washed and rinsed with water. 2. After rinsing, 1 g of the composition to be evaluated was applied to the strand of wet hair for 1 minute. 3. The lock of hair was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C). 4. Rinse the lock of hair thoroughly with tap water. 5. The strand of hair was dried with a hair dryer.

[0210] Immediately after drying the hair strand, the “hydration sensation” of the hair strand was evaluated by a professional panelist, compared to the reference (treated with the composition according to comparative example 1) on the basis of the following criteria. The higher the score, the better the hair feels hydrated.

[0211] 5: Very good

[0212] 4: Good

[0213] 3: Parity compared to the reference index (hair sample treated with water: Comparative Example 1)

[0214] 2: Bad

[0215] 1: Very bad

[0216] The results are shown in the “Texture” row of Table 1.

[0217] It is clear that the composition according to Example 1 provided a better texture (better feeling of hydration) than the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-4.

[0218] Comparative Examples 1 to 4 show that the use of glyoxylic acid only (Ex. Comp. 2), the use of 15% by weight or more of glyoxylic acid (Ex. comp. 3) or the use of more than 10% by weight of levulinic acid (18.2*0.6=10.92% by weight) could not improve the texture of the hair strand.

[0219] (flexural strength)

[0220] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was used to treat a lock of hair (1.0 g, 27 cm) in accordance with the following steps. 1. The hair strand was washed and rinsed with water. 1. After rinsing, 1 g of the composition to be evaluated was applied to the strand of wet hair for 1 minute. 2. The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C). 3. Rinse the lock of hair thoroughly with tap water. 4. The strand of hair was dried with a hair dryer.

[0221] The root of the hair strand was fixed on a plate. On the other hand, the end of the hair strand was held and directed upwards, and then the end of the hair strand was released so that the end of the hair strand could be directed downwards. The angle between the plate and the root of the hair strand (hair bundle) was measured (see [Fig.l]). The average value was determined as the bending angle.

[0222] The bending angles are indicated in the "Bending Strength" row of Table 1. The higher the bending angle, the more flexible the hair.

[0223] It is clear that the composition according to Example 1 provided greater flexural strength (higher resistance) than the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-4.

[0224] Comparative Examples 1 to 4 show that the use of glyoxylic acid only (Ex. Comp. 2), the use of 15 wt% or more of glyoxylic acid (Ex. Comp. 3) or the use of more than 10 wt% of levulinic acid (18.2*0.6=10.92 wt%) could not sufficiently increase the strength of the hair strand. Example 2 and Comparative Examples 5-8 [Preparation]

[0225] Each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Examples 5-4 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 2. The numerical values ​​for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0226] [Tables2] Ex. 2 Ex. Comp. 5 Ex. Comp. 6 Ex. Comp. 7 Ex. Comp. 8 Isopropyl Myristate 10 - 10 10 10 Glycerin 4 - 4 4 4 Cetearyl Alcohol 4 - 4 4 4 Steareth-2 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 Steareth-10 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 Stearamidopropyl diethylamine 2.5 - 2.5 2.5 2.5 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Glyoxylic Acid (50% by weight of MA) (1) 20 - - 20 - Levulinic Acid (60% by weight of MA) (2) 5 - - - 5 Betaine 1 - 1 1 1 pH Regulator qs pH 3 - qs pH 3 qs pH 3 qs pH 3 Ethanol 3 - 3 3 3 Shape transformation rate 5 1 1 2 3 Frizz 4 1 1 3 3 Alignment 4 1 1 3 2

[0227] AM: Active ingredient 1. marketed by the company WEYLCHEM under the name GLYOXO-HIGH PURE 50 (containing 50% active ingredient). 1. marketed by the company DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK) under the name DERMOSOFT 700 B (containing 60% active ingredient). [Evaluations]

[0228] (Shape Transformation Speed)

[0229] Each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Examples 5-4 was used to treat a lock of hair (1.0 g, 27 cm) in accordance with the following steps. 1. The hair strand was washed and rinsed with water. 1. After rinsing, 0.6 g of the composition to be evaluated was applied to the strand of wet hair for 1 minute. 2. The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C). 3. Rinse the lock of hair thoroughly with tap water. 4. The strand of hair was dried with a hair dryer. 5. We smoothed the lock of hair in 3 passes with a straightener (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180 C, 4 seconds / pass. 6. The hair strand was placed in an oven at 50°C for 30 minutes to be standardized. 7. The hair strand was placed in a controlled chamber (ETS Environmental Test Chamber, Model 5532-1-30-2262) at a temperature of 30°C and 70% atmospheric humidity for 1 hour. 8. A video of the hair strand was taken in step 8.

[0230] The hair strand shape transformation speed was evaluated by the video taken in step 9 according to the following criteria. The higher the score, the better the humidity resistance.

[0231] 5: Slow

[0232] 4: Rather slow

[0233] 3: Normal

[0234] 2: Rather fast

[0235] 1: Fast

[0236] The results are presented in the “Shape Transformation Speed” row of Table 2.

[0237] It is clear that the composition according to Example 2 provided a slower shape transformation (i.e., it takes longer for the hair to change shape) than the compositions according to Comparative Examples 5-8. This means that the composition according to Example 2 provided superior moisture resistance to compositions according to Comparative Examples 5-8.

[0238] In particular, Comparative Examples 7 and 8 show that the use of glyoxylic acid only (Ex. Comp.) 7) or the exclusive use of sodium levulinic acid de-vulinate could not sufficiently increase the resistance to humidity as did the composition according to Example 2.

[0239] (Frizz)

[0240] Each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Examples 5-4 was used to treat a lock of hair (1.0 g, 27 cm) in accordance with the following steps. 1. The hair strand was washed and rinsed with water. 1. After rinsing, 0.6 g of the composition to be evaluated was applied to the strand of wet hair for 1 minute. 2. The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C). 3. Rinse the lock of hair thoroughly with tap water. 4. The strand of hair was dried with a hair dryer. 5. We smoothed the lock of hair in 3 passes with a straightener (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180 C, 4 seconds / pass. 6. The hair strand was placed in an oven at 50°C for 30 minutes to be standardized. 7. A photo of the hair strand was taken just after step 7. 8. The hair strand was placed in a controlled chamber (ETS Environmental Test Chamber, Model 5532-1-30-2262) at a temperature of 30°C and 70% atmospheric humidity for 1 hour. 9. A photo of the hair strand was taken just after step 9.

[0241] The frizz of the hair strand was evaluated according to the following criteria by comparing the photos taken in steps 8 and 10. The higher the score, the better the resistance to humidity.

[0242] 5: Very good (no frizz)

[0243] 4: Good (little frizz)

[0244] 3: Fairly good (little frizz)

[0245] 2: Bad (some frizz)

[0246] 1: Very bad (lots of frizz)

[0247] The results are shown in Table 2 in the “Frizz” row.

[0248] It is clear that the composition according to Example 2 gave less frizz in humid conditions than the compositions according to Comparative Examples 5-8. This means that the composition according to Example 2 provided su- superior to the compositions according to comparative examples 5-8.

[0249] In particular, Comparative Examples 7 and 8 show that the use of glyoxylic acid only (Ex. Ex. 7) or the exclusive use of levulinic acid / sodium levulinate could not suppress frizz as did the composition according to Example 2.

[0250] (Alignment)

[0251] Each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Examples 5-4 was used to treat a lock of hair (1.0 g, 27 cm) in accordance with the following steps. 1. The hair strand was washed and rinsed with water. 1. After rinsing, 0.6 g of the composition to be evaluated was applied to the strand of wet hair for 1 minute. 2. The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C). 3. Rinse the lock of hair thoroughly with tap water. 4. The strand of hair was dried with a hair dryer. 5. We smoothed the lock of hair in 3 passes with a straightener (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180 C, 4 seconds / pass. 6. The hair strand was placed in an oven at 50°C for 30 minutes to be standardized. 7. A photo of the hair strand was taken just after step 7. 8. The hair strand was placed in a controlled chamber (ETS Environmental Test Chamber, Model 5532-1-30-2262) at a temperature of 30°C and 70% atmospheric humidity for 1 hour. 9. A photo of the hair strand was taken just after step 9.

[0252] The alignment of the hair strand was evaluated according to the following criteria by comparing the photos taken in steps 8 and 10. The higher the score, the better the resistance to humidity.

[0253] 5: Very good

[0254] 4: Good

[0255] 3: Pretty good

[0256] 2: Bad

[0257] 1: Very bad

[0258] The results are shown in Table 2 in the “Alignment” row.

[0259] It is clear that the composition according to Example 2 provided a better alignment of the hair in humid conditions than the compositions according to Comparative Examples 5-8. This means that the composition according to Example 2 provided superior humidity resistance to the compositions according to Comparative Examples 5-8.

[0260] In particular, Comparative Examples 7 and 8 show that the use of glyoxylic acid only (Ex. Ex. 7) or the exclusive use of levulinic acid / sodium levulinate could not provide good hair alignment as does the composition according to Example 2.

Claims

Claims

1. A composition for shaping keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof and (b) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof. wherein the amount of (a) compound(s) in the composition is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the amount of (b) compound(s) in the composition is 10% by weight or less.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein compound (b) is selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.

3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the composition further comprises (c) water.

4. A composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one betaine compound.

5. A composition according to claim 4, wherein the betaine compound (d) is selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine and L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof.

6. Cl. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the pH of the composition is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein the composition does not comprise any reducing agent or oxidizing agent, or may comprise less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, intended for to shape, preferably to smooth, keratin fibers, such as hair.

9. A process for shaping keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising the following steps: (i) applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratin fibers. (ii) optionally rinsing the keratin fibers with or without drying the keratin fibers after rinsing and (iii) shaping, preferably smoothing the keratin fibers at a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and, better still, more than 150°C.

10. Kit for shaping, preferably straightening keratin fibers such as hair, comprising: at least one element selected from the group consisting of an iron, a curler, a comb, a hair dryer and a combination thereof, preferably at least one heating iron, a heated curler, a heated comb or a hair dryer, which is capable of providing the keratin fibers with a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 100°C and, more preferably, above 150°C and the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8; and