COMPOSITION COMPRISING A GLYCOLIPID, A TAURATE SURFACTANT AND AN AMINO ACID SURFACTANT
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023007851
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-07-21
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-15
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-07-21
AI Technical Summary
Cosmetic compositions containing glycolipids suffer from instability under temperature changes, which affects their performance and efficacy.
A composition comprising glycolipids, taurate surfactants, and amino acid surfactants, with specific ratios and quantities, to enhance stability against temperature fluctuations.
The composition maintains a uniform appearance and stability over a wide range of temperatures, providing improved performance and bioactive benefits such as anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A GLYCOLIPID, A TAURATE SURFACTANT AND AN AMINO ACID SURFACTANT Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one taurate surfactant and at least one amino acid surfactant, preferably a cosmetic composition comprising them, and more preferably a cosmetic rinsing composition comprising them. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges.
[0003] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.
[0004] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0005] Biological surfactants such as glycolipids such as rhamnolipids are naturally occurring materials and are known to have unique bioactivities, such as anti-inflammatory efficacy, anti-allergic efficacy, antibacterial efficacy, and others. For example, glycolipids are known for their anti-inflammatory efficacy and are potentially used on keratinous substances, such as skin.
[0006] For example, JP-T-2015-507626 discloses a composition comprising water, at least one biological surfactant and at least one fatty acid, wherein the fraction of the sum of all surfactants in the composition is 1 to 30% by weight, and the fatty acid fraction, based on the sum of the fatty acids and the surfactants, is 0.1 to 20% by weight.
[0007] However, although glycolipids have several unique bioactivities, there is the problem that the composition comprising glycolipids may be less stable when the temperature changes.
[0008] Therefore, there is a need to provide a composition comprising gly- colipids which exhibit improved stability against temperature change. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0009] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition comprising at least one glycolipid, which has improved stability against temperature change.
[0010] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising: a. at least one glycolipid; b. at least one taurate surfactant in an amount of at least 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; c. at least one amino acid; and d. water.
[0011] The (a) glycolipid may be chosen from rhamnolipids.
[0012] The quantity of the (a) glycolipid(s) may range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0013] The (b) taurate surfactant can be represented by the formula (I):
[0014] in which
[0015] R7 is (C8-C22)alkyl;
[0016] R8 is H or (Ci-C4)alkyl;
[0017] R9 and R10 are each independently H or (C1-C4)alkyl; and
[0018] M + is a sodium, potassium or ammonium cation.
[0019] The amount of the (d) taurate surfactant(s) in the composition may be from 0.6% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.75% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.9% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0020] The (c) amino acid surfactant can be represented by the formula (A): O (A) ^(CH,}nx.QOOM XY
[0021] in which:
[0022] Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
[0023] X is hydrogen or methyl group,
[0024] n is 0 yes,
[0025] Y is selected from hydrogen, -CH3, -CH(CH 3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH 3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4 OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3 NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O M+> -(CH2)2C(O)OH, and -(CH2)2C(O)O M+, and
[0026] M is a salt-forming cation in which COO is the counter anion, such as, for example, sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.
[0027] The amount of the (c) amino acid surfactant(s) in the composition may range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0028] The amount of (d) water may range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0029] The weight ratio of the (b) taurate surfactant(s) to the (c) amino acid surfactant(s) included in the composition may be from 3:1 to 1:10, preferably from 2:1 to 1:8, and more preferably from 1:1 to 1:5.
[0030] The amount of the (a) glycolipid(s), (b) taurate surfactant(s), and (c) amino acid surfactant(s) included in the composition may be from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] The composition may further comprise at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxylhydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.
[0032] The pH of the composition may be from 4 to 8, preferably from 4.5 to 7.5 and, more preferably, from 5 to 7.
[0033] The composition may be a cleansing composition, preferably a skin cleansing composition and, more preferably, a facial cleansing composition.
[0034] The composition may include at least one higher fatty acid in an amount less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight and, more preferably less than 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0035] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or conditioning of keratinous substances, such as skin, comprising applying to the keratinous substances the composition according to the present invention, and optionally removing the composition from the keratinous substance. Best mode for carrying out the invention
[0036] After diligent research, the inventors surprisingly discovered that a composition comprising (a) at least one glycolipid, (b) at least one taurate surfactant in a certain amount, and (c) at least one amino acid surfactant, can provide a stable composition with respect to a temperature change, thereby achieving the objective of the present invention.
[0037] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is a composition comprising: a. at least one glycolipid; a. at least one taurate surfactant in an amount of at least 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; b. at least one amino acid; and c. water.
[0038] Hereinafter, the composition, process and use according to the present invention will be described in more detail. [Composition]
[0039] The composition is preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a non-therapeutic cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance. By keratinous substance is meant here a material containing keratin as a main constituent element, and by way of example, the skin, the scalp, the lips, and the like. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition for the skin. The composition according to the present invention may be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance, preferably the skin, and in particular the skin of the face.
[0040] In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention is a rinse-off type composition, and more preferably a rinse-off composition for the care and / or cleaning of keratinous substances. The rinse-off composition can be removed from a keratinous substance such as the skin, preferably with water.
[0041] The composition according to the present invention may more preferably be a rinse-off cleansing composition. The rinse-off cleansing composition may remove sebum and / or makeup from a keratinous substance such as the skin, and may be removed from the keratinous substance, preferably with water.
[0042] The form of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited. In general, the composition according to the present invention is liquid at tem room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa). The composition may take various forms, such as a solution, an aqueous solution, a tonic, a micellar water, a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a liquid gel, a paste, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, an emulsion (O / W or W / O form), or others. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an aqueous solution or a gel.
[0043] Preferably, the form of the present invention is an aqueous formula, such as an aqueous solution, a tonic, a serum or a micellar water.
[0044] The composition according to the present invention is stable under a variety of temperature conditions such as from very low temperature, for example -5°C, to room temperature (25°C). Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention is stable under a wide range of temperature changes, for example from -20°C to 20°C. The term "stable" herein means that the composition retains its original uniform or homogeneous appearance over time without causing sedimentation.
[0045] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one glycolipid, (b) at least one taurate surfactant, (c) at least one amino acid surfactant, and (d) water. The ingredients of the composition will be described in detail below.
[0046] (Glycolipid)
[0047] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one glycolipid. Only one type of glycolipid can be used, but two or more different types of glycolipids can be used in combination.
[0048] By the term "glycolipid" is meant a compound formed from a lipid to which one or more sugar compounds are attached.
[0049] The (a) glycolipids may be selected from the group consisting of rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids and mixtures thereof.
[0050] The (a) glycolipids are preferably chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and their mixtures, more preferably rhamnolipids. Glucolipids:
[0051] The (a) glycolipids may be glucolipids, which contain a glucose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (I):
[0052] where: • R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation, • p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 4, and • q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.
[0053] Glucolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MM1.
[0054] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by M. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203. Glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using diethyl ether or a mixture of dichloromethane:methanol or chloroform:methanol. Sophorolipids
[0055] The (a) glycolipids may be sophorolipids, which contain a sophorose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (II):
[0056] where: • R3 and R4 individually represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group, • R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group, • R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group, containing from 1 to 19 carbon atoms,
[0057] provided that the total number of carbon atoms in the R5 and R6 groups does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18.
[0058] The sophorolipids may be incorporated into the composition according to the present invention either in the form of an open-chain free acid, where R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxy OH group, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8, as indicated by formula (III): (III)
[0059]
[0060]
[0061]
[0062]
[0063]
[0064] Or : • R3, R4, R5 and R6 are as defined above, provided that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetyl group. Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example, Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. The fermentation process typically uses sugars and alkanes as substrates. Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed in A.P. Tulloch, J.F.T. Spencer, and P.A.J. Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang, and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6(4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones, which may be used as mixtures, or the required form may be isolated. It is possible to use as sophorolipid, for example, the product sold under the name Sopholiance S by Givaudan and the product sold under the name BioToLife by BASF. Trehalolipids (a) Glycolipids may be trehalolipids, which contain a trehalose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (IV): o! COOK
[0065]
[0066] Or : R9, R10 and R11 individually represent a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon radical containing from 5 to 13 carbon atoms. Trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis. Suitable fermentation processes are proposed by Ishigami et al. (1987), J. Jpn. Oil Chem. Soc., 36, 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203, and Passeri et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 204-209. Cellobiose lipids
[0067] The (a) glycolipids may be cellobiose lipids, which contain a cellobiose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (V): "S
[0068] where: • R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation, • R12 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or unhydroxylated hydrocarbon radical hydroxylated, containing from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms, • R13 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group; and • R14 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or unhydroxylated hydrocarbon radical hydroxylated, containing 4 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0069] Cellobiose lipids can be produced by cells of fungi of the genus Ustilago. Suitable fermentation processes are proposed by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762. Rhamnolipids:
[0070] The (a) glycolipids may be rhamnolipids.
[0071] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.
[0072] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three [3-hydroxy] fatty acid chains linked together by an ester bond.
[0073] More specifically, these mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids correspond to the following formula (VI):
[0074] • m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, • n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and • R1 and R2 represent, independently of one another, identical or different hydrocarbon radicals, comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a singly, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl radical.
[0075] Thus, when n is equal to 0, formula (VI) protects mono-rhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it protects di-rhamnolipids.
[0076] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid.
[0077] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which: • m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; • n denotes an integer equal to 1; and • R1 and R2 each independently represent identical or different hydrocarbon radicals, comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, branched or not, substituted or not, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a simply, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl radical, as well as their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers.
[0078] The glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments can be in alpha or beta configuration and is preferentially in alpha configuration.
[0079] In the context of the present invention, • the salts of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly their carboxylate salts with an organic or inorganic cation and in particular with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium. • the solvated forms of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated by one or more molecules of water or organic solvents, for example a hydrate or a solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids being preferentially in the form of the R enantiomers, and • the term "alkyl" radical denotes a saturated, linear or branched aliphatic group; for example, a C1-C2o alkyl group having a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl group.
[0080] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which: • m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; • n denotes an integer equal to 1; and • R1 and R2, which are identical or different, are chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, do-decenyl, tridecenyl and the radicals of formula -(CH2)OCH3, o denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.
[0081] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.
[0082] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.
[0083] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.
[0084] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of the following formula (VII): O OH
[0085]
[0086]
[0087]
[0088] n Or : • m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1, • n denotes an integer equal to 1, • Ri is a radical (CH2)P-CH3 with p being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, • R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3 with q an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, and also their salts, solvates and optical isomers. By way of illustration and without limiting the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VII) which may be suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY, as defined in Table 1 below. The formula di-RL-CXCY is a writing variant to represent a di-rhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized by two radicals Ri and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.
[0089] [Tables 1] Compounds Di-RL'CXCY P « 1 d^RL-CO 4 4 2 4 6 3 6 4 4 dsRl tic'CP 0 6 5 >5 S § ®L-C12Clu S g 7 ÆL-C13C12 SS 8 «.--C13C14 JS w 9 &RL-C14CQ 10 s 10 dàlÆMCU 10 10 Ü ïd 12 12 «L-C16C14 12 10 13 dsRL-C16C16 12 12.
[0090] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also called di-RL-ClOCIO, or one of its salts, solvates and optical isomers.
[0091] Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.
[0092] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8.
[0093] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3, with o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl; preferentially, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.
[0094] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) chosen from: • a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1; • a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8; and • at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3 with o an integer varying from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl; preferentially, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.
[0095] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) chosen from: • at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, • from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, and • from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3 to 12% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight, of a dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.
[0096] As specified above, rhamnolipids are usually prepared by processes known to those skilled in the art from bacterial producers, such as Pseudomonas.
[0097] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and H.P. Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. R.M. Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.
[0098] As a rhamnolipid, one can use the one sold under the name Rheance One by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids).
[0099] The amount of the (a) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more and, more preferably 2% by weight or more, and / or may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. Any combination of the upper and lower limit values is available.
[0100] Therefore, the amount of the (a) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.5% and 20% by weight, preferably between 1% and 15% by weight, and more preferably between 2% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0101] In the context of this specification, any combination of the above upper limit values and lower limit values may be available to represent the preferred range of the quantity.
[0102] (Taurate surfactant)
[0103] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one taurate surfactant. Only one type of the taurate surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of taurate surfactants may be used in combination.
[0104] The term "taurate surfactant" herein refers to an anionic surfactant comprising at least one taurate moiety. The taurate surfactant may also be referred to as a taurate-based surfactant.
[0105] The (b) taurate surfactant is preferably an acyl taurate, more preferably an N-acyl taurate, and even more preferably an N-acyl methyl taurate (i.e. N - acy 1-N-methyl Itaurate).
[0106] The (b) taurate surfactants include those of formula I, below:
[0107] in which
[0108] R7 is (C8-C22)alkyl;
[0109] R8 is H or (Ci-C4)alkyl;
[0110] R9 and R10 are each independently H or (Ci-C4)alkyl; and
[0111] M + is a sodium, potassium or ammonium cation.
[0112] The (b) taurate surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of taurate, caproyl taurate, lauroyl taurate, myristoyl taurate, palmitoyl taurate, stearoyl taurate, oleoyl taurate, cocoyl taurate, methyl taurate, coconut oil fatty acid methyl taurate, palm kernel oil fatty acid methyl taurate, hydrogenated palm kernel oil fatty acid methyl taurate, hydrogenated palm kernel fatty acid methyl taurate, hydrogenated beef tallow fatty acid methyl taurate, caproyl methyl taurate, lauroyl methyl taurate, myristoyl methyl taurate, palmitoyl methyl taurate, stearoyl methyl taurate, oleoyl methyl taurate, cocoyl methyl taurate, methyltaurine taurate and their salts.
[0113] For example, (b) taurate surfactants include sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, potassium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, calcium methyl lauroyl taurate, potassium methyl lauroyl taurate and ammonium methyl lauroyl taurate. Also, in some cases, the taurate surfactant is sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.
[0114] Examples of (b) taurate surfactant include, but are not limited to: • palm kernel oil methyltaurate sodium salt, sold under the name Hostapon CT Pâté® by Clariant; • Sodium N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by Clariant or sold under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikkol; • sodium methyl stearoyl taurate sold under the name Nikkol SMT®; • sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate, sold under the name Nikkol PMT® by Nikkol; and • sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sold under the name PUREACT WS CONC LO by Innospec Active Chemicals.
[0115] The amount of the (b) taurate surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention is at least 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the taurate surfactant(s) in the composition may be 0.75% by weight or more and, preferably, 0.9% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the taurate surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and, more preferably, 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. Any combination of the upper and lower limit values is available.
[0116] The amount of the (b) taurate surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.6% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.75% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.9% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0117] (Amino acid surfactant)
[0118] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one amino acid surfactant. Only one type of the amino acid surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of amino acid surfactants may be used in combination.
[0119] The term "amino acid surfactant" herein refers to an anionic surfactant based on amino acids or derivatives thereof. Typically, the amino acid surfactant is an anionic surfactant comprising at least one amino moiety and at least one carboxylic acid moiety that is in the form of a carboxylate. The amino acid surfactant may have two or more amino moieties and / or two or more carboxylic acid moieties that are in the form of carboxylates. The amino acid surfactant may also be referred to as an amino acid-based surfactant.
[0120] The (c) amino acid surfactant here is different from the (b) taurate surfactant.
[0121] The (c) amino acid surfactant may preferably be chosen from the derivatives of amino acids. The amino acid derivative may be more preferably selected from salts of amino acids and N-acylated amino acids, for example alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts of amino acids and N-acylated amino acids, such as sodium salts, potassium salts, magnesium salts and calcium salts of amino acids and N-acylated amino acids. Thus, the (c) amino acid surfactant is preferably an N-acyl amino acid surfactant.
[0122] The acyl group that forms the N-acyl moiety of the amino acid derivatives may be a C1-C30 acyl group, preferably a C6-C28 acyl group and, more preferably, a C12-C24 acyl group.
[0123] The (c) amino acid surfactant may even more preferably be chosen from the group consisting of glutamates, N-acylated glutamates, aspartates, N-acylated aspartates and their salts.
[0124] The carboxylate salts of these amino acids can be formed by conventional means such as neutralizing the respective amino acid with a base. The amine group located on the α-carbon or [3-carbon of the neutralized amino acid is acylated with a fatty acid halide (acyl halide) in the presence of a base via the well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction yielding the amide, thereby forming the desired surfactant reaction product, namely the amino acid surfactant. Suitable acyl halides for acylation of the amino acid carboxylate salt include acyl chlorides, bromides, fluorides and iodides. Acyl halides can be prepared by reacting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C22 fatty acid with a thionyl halide (bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide).Representative acyl halides include, but are not limited to, acyl chlorides selected from decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride), cocoyl chloride (fatty acid chlorides derived from coconut oil), tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride), hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride), octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride), 9-octadecenoyl chloride (oleoyl chloride), eicosanoyl chloride (arachidoyl chloride), docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride), and any mixture thereof. Other acyl halides include the bromides, fluorides, and iodides of the above fatty acids. A method for preparing acyl halides and another method for acylating amino acids are disclosed in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2008 / 0200704, published August 21, 2008, which application is incorporated herein by reference.
[0125] In one embodiment, said amino acid-based anionic surfactant is represented by formula (A): Q (A) ^COOM Z"' xy
[0126] in which:
[0127] Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
[0128] X is hydrogen or methyl group,
[0129] n is 0 yes,
[0130] Y is selected from hydrogen, -CH3, -CH(CH 3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH 3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4 OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3 NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O M+> -(CH2)2C(O)OH, and -(CH2)2C(O)O M+, and
[0131] M is a salt-forming cation in which COO is the counteranion, such as, for example, sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.
[0132] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the amino fatty acid of formula (A):
[0133] Z represents a linear saturated or unsaturated C8 to C18 alkyl group, in particular a cocoyl group,
[0134] X is hydrogen,
[0135] nvautO,
[0136] Y is hydrogen, and
[0137] M is a salt-forming cation in which COO is the counteranion, such as, for example, sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.
[0138] Examples of the amino acid surfactants are salts of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine and any mixture thereof.More specifically, mention may be made of amino acid surfactants such as dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, [3-methyl cocoyl alaninate, [3-lauroyl alaninate, [3-lauroyl methyl alaninate, [3-myristoyl alaninate, lauroyl methyl [3-potassium alaninate, . cocoyl alaninate de sodium, cocoyl méthyl [3-alaninate de sodium et myristoyl méthyl [3-alaninate palmitoyl glycinate de sodium, lauroyl glycinate de sodium, cocoyl glycinate de sodium, myristoyl glycinate de sodium, lauroyl glycinate de potassium, cocoyl glycinate de potassium, lauroyl sarcosinate de potassium, cocoyl sarcosinate de potassium, cocoyl sarcosinate de sodium, lauroyl sarcosinate de sodium, myristoyl sarcosinate de sodium, oléoyl sarcosinate de sodium, palmitoyl sarcosinate de sodium, lauroyl sarcosinate d'ammonium, lauroyl aspartate de sodium, myristoyl aspartate de sodium, cocoyl aspartate de sodium, caproyl aspartate de sodium, lauroyl aspartate disodique, myristoyl aspartate disodique, cocoyl aspartate disodique, caproyl aspartate disodique, lauroyl aspartate de potassium, myristoyl aspartate de potassium, cocoyl aspartate de potassium, caproyl aspartate de potassium, lauroyl aspartate dipotassique, myristoyl aspartate dipotassique, cocoyl aspartate dipotassique,dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.
[0139] Reference may be made to commercially available amino acid surfactants, for example: • sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 30® by Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by Nikkol; • alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone ALE® by Kawaken, or triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, sold under the name Alanone ALTA® by Kawaken; • glutamates, such as triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12® by Ajinomoto, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12® by Ajinomoto; disodium glutamates, disodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft® HS-21P by Ajinomoto, and mixtures thereof; sodium cocoyl glutamate, sold under the name Plantapon® Amino SF-N by BASF Japan; disodium cocoyl glutamate, sold under the name Plantapon® Amino SCG-L by BASF Japan; and disodium / sodium cocoyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft® CS-22 by Ajinomoto; • aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoylaspartate, sold under the name Asparack® by Mitsubishi; • glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate, sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by Ajinomoto; • citrates, such as the citric monoester of oxyethylenated coconut alcohols (9 mol) sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by Goldschmidt; and • galacturonates, such as sodium dodecyl-galactoside-uronate, sold by Soliance.
[0140] The amount of the (c) amino acid surfactant(s) in the composition may be 0.5 wt% or more, preferably 1 wt% or more, and more preferably 2 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the (c) amino acid surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20 wt% or less, preferably 15 wt% or less, and more preferably 10 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. Any combination of the upper and lower limit values are available.
[0141] The amount of the (c) amino acid surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0142] In one embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of (b) taurate surfactant(s) to (c) amino acid surfactant(s) included in the composition may be from 3:1 to 1:10, preferably from 2:1 to 1:8, and more preferably from 1:1 to 1:5.
[0143] In another embodiment, the total amount of the (b) taurate surfactant(s) and the (c) amino acid surfactant(s) included in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0144] In another embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the (a) glycolipid(s) to the total amount of the (b) taurate surfactant(s) and the (c) amino acid surfactant(s) included in the composition may be from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 5:1 to 1:5, and more preferably from 3:1 to 1:3, and in particular from 2:1 to 1:2.
[0145] In another embodiment of the present invention, the total weight quantity of the (a) glycolipid(s), (b) taurate surfactant(s) and (c) amino acid surfactant(s) included in the composition may be from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0146] (Water)
[0147] The composition according to the present invention comprises water.
[0148] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more and, more preferably, 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0149] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 97% by weight or less, and more preferably 95% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0150] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 97% by weight and more preferably from 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0151] (Other optional ingredients) • Polyol
[0152] The composition according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one polyol. Two or more polyols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of the polyol or a combination of different types of the polyols may be used.
[0153] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” must be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0154] The polyol suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic alkyl type, saturated or unsaturated, comprising at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.
[0155] Preferably, a polyol which can be used in the composition according to the invention is a compound of linear or branched alkyl type, preferably linear carrying at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functions, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functions, and even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functions on the alkyl chain.
[0156] The polyols which are advantageously suitable for the formulation of the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are those comprising in particular from 2 to 12 carbon atoms or for example from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0157] The polyols which can be used according to the present invention are chosen from linear or branched polyols, preferably linear polyols comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; in particular: • diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; and • triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),
[0158] and mixtures thereof.
[0159] The amount of the polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more and, more preferably typically 3% by weight or more, and may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less and, more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0160] The amount of the polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight and more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Non-polymeric monovalent acid or salt thereof
[0161] The composition according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof. A single type of monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, or two or more different types of monovalent non-polymeric acids or salts thereof may be used.
[0162] The monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof is different from the amino acid surfactant and the taurate surfactant.
[0163] The term "non-polymeric" herein means that the acid is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Therefore, non-polymeric acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers such as polyacrylic acids.
[0164] The term "salt" herein refers to a salt formed by the addition of one or more suitable bases to the monovalent non-polymeric acid, which may be obtained from a reaction with the monovalent non-polymeric acid with the base(s) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As a salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K and alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca and ammonium salts.
[0165] It is preferable that the molecular weight of the monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof is less than 1,000, preferably 500 or less, and more preferably 200 or less.
[0166] The monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be included in the aqueous phase formed by (d) water.
[0167] The monovalent non-polymeric acid has a single acid group which may be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group or a mixture thereof.
[0168] The monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be selected from monovalent organic or inorganic acids and their salts.
[0169] It is preferable that the monovalent non-polymeric acid is a monovalent organic acid, and more preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid.
[0170] The monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid may be chosen from hydroxyl acids, and preferably alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids. Examples of alpha-hydroxy acids include lactic acid and glycolic acid. Examples of beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid.
[0171] Thus, the monovalent non-polymeric acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxyl acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.
[0172] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0173] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0174] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Non-polymeric acid having two or more acid dissociation constants
[0175] The composition according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt thereof. A single type of non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt thereof may be used, or two or more different types of non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salts thereof may be used.
[0176] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or the salt thereof has two or more acid dissociation constants or a salt(s) thereof. The pKa value (acid dissociation constant) is well known to those skilled in the art and should be determined at a constant temperature such as 25°C.
[0177] The composition according to the present invention may include two or more non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof in combination.
[0178] The term "non-polymeric" herein means that the acid is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Therefore, non-polymeric acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers such as a polycarboxylic acid.
[0179] It is preferable that the molecular weight of the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof is 1000 or less, preferably 800 or less, and more preferably 700 or less.
[0180] There is no limit to the type of the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or the salt(s) thereof. Two or more different types of non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salts thereof may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt thereof or a combination of different types of non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salts thereof may be used.
[0181] Herein, the term "salt" means a salt formed by the addition of appropriate base(s) to the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values, which can be obtained from a reaction with the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values with the base(s) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As a salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K and alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca and ammonium salts.
[0182] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof may be an organic acid or salt(s) thereof, and preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt(s) thereof.
[0183] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values may have at least two acid groups selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group, a phenolic hydroxyl group, and a mixture thereof.
[0184] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values may be a non-polymeric polyvalent acid.
[0185] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values may be selected from the group consisting of dicarboxylic acids, disulfonic acids and diphosphoric acids, and a mixture thereof.
[0186] The non-polymeric acid having at least two pKa values or salt(s) thereof may be selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, malic acid, citric acid, aconitic acid, oxaloacetic acid, tartaric acid and their salts; aspartic acid, glutamic acid and their salts; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid or their salts (Mexoryl SX), Benzophenone-9; phytic acid and its salts; Red 2 (Amaranth), Red 102 (New Coccine), Yellow 5 (Tartrazine), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), Green 3 (Fast Green FCF), Blue 1 (Brillant blue FCF), Blue 2 (Indigo Carminé), Red 201 (Lithol Rubine B), (Lithol Rubine BCA), Red 204 (Lake Red CBA), Red 206 (Lithol Red CA), Red 207 (Lithol Red BA), Red 208 (Lithol Red SR), Red 219 (Brilliant Lake Red R), Red 220 (Deep Maroon), Red 227 (Fast Acid Magenta), Yellow 203 (Quinoline Yellow WS), Green 201 (Alizanine Cyanine Green F), Green 204 (Pyranine Conc), Green 205 (Light Green SF Yellowish), Bine 203 (Patent Bine CA), Bine 205 (Alfazurine FG), Red 401 (Violamine R), Red 405 (Permanent Re F5R), Red 502 (Ponceau 3R), Red 503 (Ponceau R), Red 504 (Ponceau SX), Green 401 (Naphthol Green B), Green 402 (Guinea Green B) and Black 401 (Naphthol Blue Black); folic acid, ascorbic acid, erythorbic acid and salts thereof; cystine and salts thereof, EDTA and its salts; glycyrrhizin and its salts; and a mixture thereof.
[0187] It may be preferable that the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof is selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, phosphoric acid, phytic acid and salts thereof.
[0188] The amount of the non-polymeric acid(s) having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0189] The amount of the non-polymeric acid(s) having two or more pKa values or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0190] The amount of the non-polymeric acid(s) having two or more pKa values or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Higher fatty acid
[0191] The composition according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one higher fatty acid. Only one type of higher fatty acid may be used, but two or more different types of higher fatty acids may be used in combination.
[0192] The term “fatty acid” herein refers to a monofunctional carboxylic acid with an aliphatic chain.
[0193] The higher fatty acid may be linear or branched. The higher fatty acid is preferably chosen from linear higher fatty acids.
[0194] The higher fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from saturated fatty acids. In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is chosen from unsaturated fatty acids having 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, and preferably 1 or 2 carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0195] Non-limiting examples of higher fatty acids include fatty acids having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0196] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the higher fatty acid is a mixture of higher fatty acids selected from linear fatty acids comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, the fatty acids being saturated or unsaturated with 1 or 2 carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0197] The higher fatty acid can be represented by the following formula:
[0198] RCOOH
[0199] in which: R is a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably linear, preferably a C8-C20 alkyl or alkenyl group. R may comprise 1 or 2 carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0200] As non-limiting examples of higher fatty acids, mention may be made of capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0201] The higher fatty acid(s) may be present in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.08% by weight or more, and / or may be present in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0202] The amount of the active agent(s) for chemical exfoliants in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.08% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0203] In another embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises fatty acids or higher fatty acids in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.3% by weight or less, relative to the total amount of the composition. • pH correction agent
[0204] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may or may not be corrected to the desired value by using at least one pH correcting agent, such as an acidifying agent or a basifying agent, for example, which are commonly used in cosmetic products.
[0205] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be from 4 to 8, preferably from 4.5 to 7.5 and, more preferably, from 5 to 7.
[0206] Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
[0207] Among the basifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxides of an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, for example sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide; quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide; alkali metal silicates, such as sodium metasilicates; amino acids, preferably basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citrulline and histidine; carbonates and bicarbonates, in particular of a primary, secondary or tertiary amine, of an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, or of ammonium; compounds of the following formula: Rx^ Rz x NWN Ry " Rt (III)
[0208] in which
[0209] W is a C1-C6 alkylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl group;
[0210] Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 aminoalkyl group. Mention may in particular be made of 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
[0211] The pH correction agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0212] The pH value of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, however, in general, it ranges from 3 to 8, preferably from 3.5 to 7, and more preferably from 4 to 6. • Additives
[0213] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise or not any optional additive(s) usually used in the field of cosmetics, chosen, for example, from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, oils, hydrophobic organic solvents, gums, resins, thickeners, dispersants, antioxidants, such as hydroxyacetophenone, film-forming agents, buffers, preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptics, chelating agents, such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, UV screens, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizing, emollient or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0214] Polylysines are cationic polymers and correspond to the condensation of several lysine amino acids. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine which can be produced by bacterial fermentation. Polylysines are typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte which is soluble in polar solvents such as water.
[0215] The polylysine may be, for example, epsilon-polylysine (or designated "e-polylysine"), which is a condensation of amino groups in the e-position and carboxyl groups of lysines, or alpha-polylysine (or designated "a-polylysine"), which is a condensation of amino groups in the a-position and carboxyl groups of lysines. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. Polylysine is usually a condensate of L-lysines, i.e., poly L-lysine.
[0216] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of the polylysine may be greater than 1,000 and less than 20,000, preferably greater than 1,500 and less than 15,000, and more preferably greater than 2,000 and less than 10,000.
[0217] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Preparation]
[0218] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
[0219] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0220] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and a homogenizer. In addition, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process of preparing the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly. [Cosmetic application]
[0221] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance. Keratinous substance herein refers to a material containing keratin as a main constituent element and, examples thereof include skin, scalp, lips, hair or body hair and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is used for a cosmetic process for the keratinous substance, in particular the skin.
[0222] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition for the skin, preferably a cosmetic skin care composition and more preferably a cosmetic facial care composition.
[0223] In particular, the composition according to the present invention is useful for cleansing. Thus, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cleansing composition, more preferably a skin cleansing composition, and even more preferably a facial cleansing composition. [Cosmetic process and use]
[0224] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method or process, preferably a cosmetic method or process, and more preferably a cosmetic method or process for the care and / or cleaning of keratinous substances, such as the skin, the scalp and the lips, in particular the skin of the face, comprising:
[0225] the application to the keratinous substance of a composition comprising: a. at least one glycolipid; a. at least one taurate surfactant in an amount of at least 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; b. at least one amino acid; and c. water.
[0226] The present invention also relates to: • a cosmetic process for a keratinous substrate such as the skin, comprising applying to the keratinous substrate the composition according to the present invention; and optionally removing from the composition the keratinous substance,
[0227] or • a use of the composition according to the present invention for the care and / or cleaning of a keratinous substance such as the skin.
[0228] The cosmetic process here designates a non-therapeutic cosmetic process, such as for a cosmetic process for caring for and / or cleaning the surface of a substance. keratinous such as skin.
[0229] The removal step in the cosmetic process according to the present invention may be carried out, for example, by rinsing the composition according to the present invention from a keratinous substance such as skin with water.
[0230] If the removal step is not carried out, the cosmetic process according to the present invention may be useful for the care of a keratinous substance such as skin, since the (a) glycolipids may confer anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic or antibacterial properties to the keratinous substance, which would be useful, in particular, for the care of skin with acne and sensitive skin.
[0231] If the removal step is carried out, the cosmetic process according to the present invention can be useful for cleaning a keratinous substance such as skin, since the (a) glycolipids can function as a surfactant, as well as the (b) taurate surfactant and the (c) amino acid surfactant.
[0232] The composition is generally applied to a keratinous substance, such as skin, with the hands or an applicator. The present invention may include an optional step of rinsing the composition from the keratinous substance after its application.
[0233] The same explanations for the composition, (a) glycolipid, (b) taurate surfactant, (c) amino acid surfactant and (d) water as the composition according to the present invention above can be applied to the method, process and use inventions. The composition used in the process and use according to the present invention may include any of the optional ingredients explained above for the composition according to the present invention. EXAMPLES
[0234] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples which should not, however, be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3]
[0235] Homogeneous solution compositions according to Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were prepared by mixing the ingredients as listed in Tables 2 and 3 with a magnetic stirrer. The numerical values of the ingredient amounts shown in the tables are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials. As the glycolipid, a rhamnolipid-based surfactant was used, which was obtained from EVONIK (product name: RHEANCE® One). [Assessment]
[0236] The stability of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was evaluated as follows.
[0237] (+20 C / -20 C cycle)
[0238] Each of the compositions was placed in a transparent cylindrical sample bottle (SV-30) and stored in a cycling incubator, where the temperature is controlled in a cycle of +20 C and -20 C for 5 days. The appearance of the compositions was evaluated by observation with the naked eye, and was evaluated on the basis of the following criteria.
[0239] Good: No precipitation was observed and its original appearance was preserved.
[0240] Bad: White precipitation particles observed at the bottom of the sample bottle.
[0241] Very bad: white sedimentation observed at the bottom of the sample bottle.
[0242] The temperature cycle consisted of the following steps: a. keeping the sample at +20 C for 6 hours, a. cooling the sample to -20 C for 6 hours, b. keeping the sample at -20 C for 6 hours, c. heating the sample to +20 C for 6 hours, and d. repeating step (a) above.
[0243] (-5°C, 4°C or TA)
[0244] Each of the compositions was placed in a transparent cylindrical sample bottle (SV-30) immediately after the compositions were prepared and stored in an incubator at -5°C, 4°C, or room temperature for 7 days. The appearance of the compositions was evaluated by observation with the naked eye, and was evaluated based on the following criteria.
[0245] Good: No precipitation was observed and its original appearance was preserved.
[0246] Bad: White precipitation particles observed at the bottom of the sample bottle.
[0247] Very poor: white sedimentation observed at the bottom of the sample bottle.
[0248] The results are summarized in Tables 2 and 3 below.
[0249] [Tables2] Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Comp Ex. 1 Comp Ex. 2 Comp Ex. 3 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Sodium citrate dihydrate 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate 0.6 0.9 1 0.2 0.4 0.5 Disodium cocoyl glutamate 3.6 3.3 3.2 3.9 3.7 3.7 Sodium cocoyl glutamate 0.84 0.79 0.77 0.92 0.88 0.86 Rhamnolipid 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Sodium chloride 0.11 0.21 0.23 0.047 0.093 0.12 Coconut acid 0.05 0.09 0.1 0.02 0.04 0.05 Citric acid 1.2 1.5 1.15 1.3 1.2 1.2 Sodium benzoate 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 PH rating 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 Cycle stability (+20 C / -20 C) Good Good Good Very poor Very poor Very poor Stability at -5 °C Good Good Good Poor Good Good Stability at 4 °C Good Good Good Poor Good Good Stability at RT Good Good Good Good Good Good
[0250] [Tables3] Ingredient Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex.6 Glycerin 5 5 5 Rhamnolipid 4.5 3.6 3.32 Sodium Chloride 0.58 2.4 3.76 Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate 2.0 1.8 1.8 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate 2.5 1.8 1.9 Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate 0.48 0.43 0.43 Caprylyl Glycol 0.8 0.6 0.6 Salicylic Acid 0.3 0.45 0.2 Polylysine 0.3 0.24 0.25 Coconut Acid 0.25 0.18 0.18 Sodium Benzoate 0.15 0.12 0.11 Phytic Acid 0.41 - - Citric Acid 0.07 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 PH evaluation 5.5 5.5 5.5 Cycle stability (+20 C / -20 C) Good Good Good Stability at -5 °C Good Good Good Stability at 4 °C Good Good Good Stability at RT Good Good Good
[0251] As can be seen from Tables 2 and 3, the compositions according to Examples 1 to 5, which include the specific combination of the ingredients of (a) glycolipid and (b) taurate surfactant in a certain amount, as well as (c) amino acid surfactant, showed better stability against temperature change as well as at low temperature up to RT.
[0252] On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3, which do not include the (b) taurate surfactant in sufficient quantity, could not show improved stability.
[0253] Accordingly, it can be said that the composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition for the care and / or cleaning of keratinous substances, since it can offer a bioactive benefit produced from glycolipids with the keratinous substance while exhibiting improved stability.
Claims
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one glycolipid; (b) at least one taurate surfactant in an amount of at least 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) at least one amino acid surfactant; and (d) water.
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the (a) glycolipid is chosen from rhamnolipids.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the quantity of the (a) glycolipid(s) ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the (b) taurate surfactant is represented by the formula (I): g R^ h 1 K 0 wherein R7 is (C8-C22)alkyl; R8 is H or (C1-C4)alkyl; R9 and R10 are each independently H or (C1-C4)alkyl; and M + is a sodium, potassium or ammonium cation.
5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (c) amino acid surfactant is represented by the formula (A): 0 (A) A ^(CH4n XC0OM A "A" XY wherein: Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, X is hydrogen or methyl, n is 0 or 1, Y is selected from hydrogen, -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O M+, and M is a salt-forming cation in which COO is the counter anion, such as, for example, sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.
6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the weight ratio of (b) taurate surfactant(s) to (c) amino acid surfactant(s) included in the composition is from 3:1 to 1:10, preferably from 2:1 to 1:8, and more preferably from 1:1 to 1:5
7. 1.J. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition further comprises at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxylhydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.
8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 4 to 8, preferably from 4.5 to 7.5 and, more preferably, from 5 to 7.
9. A composition according to any preceding claim, which is a cleansing composition, preferably a skin cleansing composition and, more preferably, a facial cleansing composition.
10. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or cleansing of keratinous substances, such as the skin, comprising: applying to the keratinous substance the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9; and optionally removing the composition from the keratinous substance.