COMPOSITION COMPRISING CATIONIC POLYMER AND BASIC AMINO ACID

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING CATIONIC POLYMER AND BASIC AMINO ACID The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a-1) at least one cationic polymer; (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; (a-3) water; (b-1) at least one oil; and (b-2) at least one basic amino acid. The composition according to the present invention is stable and has no odor. Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention may include an environmentally friendly ingredient. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING CATIONIC POLYMER AND AMINO BASIC ACID technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one cationic polymer and at least one aminobasic acid, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0003] It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0004] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0005] A polyionic complex, formed of an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer, is already well known.

[0006] For example, WO 2021 / 125069 discloses a composition that is useful for cosmetic treatments and comprises at least one polyionic complex particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer, and at least one non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values. WO 2021 / 125069 also indicates that the composition shown therein may include oil and may be in the form of an emulsion. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0007] If a composition includes oil and water, it is possible that the composition may be unstable due to the incompatibility of oil and water, and that it may cause an odor due to the oxidative rancidity of the oil.

[0008] A first objective of the present invention is to provide a stable, odorless composition in which the composition comprises at least one oil and water.

[0009] Furthermore, a second objective of the present invention is to propose a composition which can include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0010] The above objectives of the present invention can be achieved by a com position, preferably a cosmetic composition, and, even better, a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising

[0011] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer;

[0012] (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

[0013] (a-3) of water;

[0014] (b-1) at least one oil and

[0015] (b-2) at least one basic amino acid.

[0016] The (a-1) cationic polymer can be selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)diallyldialkyl ammonium polychloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines and chitosans, (co)cationic amino acids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers and salts thereof.

[0017] The (a-1) cationic polymer may have a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

[0018] The quantity of the (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid, and, even better, a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.

[0020] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric acid (a-2) or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

[0021] The quantity (a-3) of water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 40% to 90% by weight, preferably from 45% to 85% by weight and, even better, from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] The oil (b-1) can be chosen from vegetable oils and synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0023] The quantity of the oil(s) (b-1) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 45% by weight and, even better, from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] The aminobasic acid (b-2) can be chosen from the group consisting of histidine, phenylalanine, tryptophan, tyrosine and their salts.

[0025] The quantity of the (f) aminobasic acid(s) (b-2) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and, better still, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] The cationic polymer (a-1) and the aminobasic acid (b-2) can form at least one complex.

[0027] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one surfactant in an amount of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight and, even better, less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

[0028] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising:

[0029] the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention and

[0030] drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance.

[0031] The present invention also relates to the use of at least one aminobasic acid (b-2)

[0032] in a composition comprising:

[0033] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer;

[0034] (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

[0035] (a-3) of water and

[0036] (b-1) at least one oil,

[0037] in order to stabilize and deodorize the composition. Best embodiment of the invention

[0038] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to provide a stable, odorless composition comprising at least one oil and water, and may include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0039] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0040] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer;

[0041] (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

[0042] (a-3) of water;

[0043] (b-1) at least one oil and

[0044] (b-2) at least one basic amino acid.

[0045] The composition according to the present invention is stable and odorless.

[0046] The composition according to the present invention is stable so that it does not cause There is no phase separation, and it maintains a uniform appearance for a long time. Consequently, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long period.

[0047] The composition according to the present invention is odorless, although it includes at least one oil that can cause oxidative rancidity. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is useful for cosmetic applications.

[0048] If the (a-1) cationic polymer is obtained from natural resources, the (a-1) cationic polymer can be an environmentally friendly ingredient. For example, the (a-1) cationic polymer can be selected from among the environmentally friendly chitosans. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can include an environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0049] Furthermore, ingredients (a-2), (b-1) and (b-2) can be derived from renewable materials such as plants and / or biodegradable materials. The composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

[0050] The composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below.

[0051] [Composition]

[0052] The composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0053] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer;

[0054] (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

[0055] (a-3) of water;

[0056] (b-1) at least one oil and

[0057] (b-2) at least one basic amino acid.

[0058] In the composition according to the present invention, at least the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b-2) aminobasic acid can form at least one complex.

[0059] A positively chargeable and / or positively charged fraction, such as an amino (-NH2) or ammonium (-NH3+) group of the cationic polymer (a-1), can interact ionically with the carboxylic acid (-COOH) or carboxylate (-COO-) group of the basic amino acid (b-2) to form the complex. The complex comprises at least one hydrophobic fraction derived from the basic fraction of the amino acid (b-2). Therefore, the cationic polymer (a-1) can be hydrophobicated by the basic amino acid (b-2) to form the complex.

[0060] The complex of the cationic polymer (a-1) and the basic amino acid (b-2) can be present at the interface between an oily phase comprising the oil (b-1) and an aqueous phase comprising the water (a-3). The oily phase can be stabilized by the above complex. Thus, the aggregation of the oily phases can be prevented. This stabilization can be achieved without a conventional surfactant. In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, which can also be similar to a so-called Pickering emulsion.

[0061] According to the present invention, the oil (b-1) can be surrounded by a plurality of complexes of the cationic polymer (a-1) and the aminobasic acid (b-2). In other In terms of composition, the oil (b-1) can be coated by the complexes mentioned above. The complexes can be in the form of particles. Thus, the oil (b-1) can be coated by particles comprising the complexes mentioned above.

[0062] The oil (b-1) surrounded by the above complexes of the cationic polymer (a-1) and the aminobasic acid (b-2) cannot come into direct contact with a keratinous substance such as skin. Thus, even if the (b-1) oil has a sticky or greasy feel during use, the composition according to the present invention would not provide a sticky or greasy feeling during use.

[0063] (Cationic polymer)

[0064] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-1) at least one cationic polymer. Only one type of cationic polymer may be used, but two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination.

[0065] A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the (a-1) cationic polymer can be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g and, even better, from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0066] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (a-1) cationic polymer be equal to or greater than 1,000, preferably equal to or greater than 2,000, better still equal to or greater than 3,000, and even better still equal to or greater than 4,000.

[0067] It may be particularly preferable for the (a-1) cationic polymer to have a molecular weight greater than 20,000.

[0068] Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means an average molecular weight.

[0069] The cationic polymer (a-1) may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged fraction selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group and a pyridyl group. The term "amino group" (main) here refers to a -NH2 group.

[0070] The (a-1) cationic polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is intended to refer to both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0071] The (a-1) cationic polymer can be chosen from natural and synthetic cationic polymers, and preferably from natural cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers are as follows.

[0072] (1) Homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic esters and amides or me- thacrylics and including at least one motif chosen from the motifs of the formulas following: ........N".........Rs R?

[0073] in which:

[0074] Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl groups comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example, methyl and ethyl groups;

[0075] R3, which may be identical or different, is chosen from hydrogen and CH3;

[0076] the symbols A, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example from 2 to 3 carbon atoms and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0077] R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and benzyl groups, and in at least one embodiment, alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and

[0078] X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methosulfate anions and halides, for example chloride and bromide.

[0079] The copolymers of family (1) may also comprise at least one motif derived from comonomers which may be selected from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by lower C1-C4 alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, vinyl-lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0080] Examples of copolymers of the (l) family include, but are not limited to:

[0081] acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide,

[0082] acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers described, for example, in European patent application no. 0 080 976,

[0083] acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate copolymers, quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers described, for example, in French patents no. 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,

[0084] dimethylaminoethyl / vinylca-prolactam / vinylpyrrolidone methacrylate terpolymers,

[0085] vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers and

[0086] crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing an olefinic unsaturation, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.

[0087] (2) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose ether derivatives comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups described, for example, in French patent no. 1,492,597, such as the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[0088] It is preferable that the cationic cellulose polymer has at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a quaternary trialkylammonium group and, even better, a quaternary trimethylammonium group.

[0089] The quaternary ammonium group may be present in a quaternary ammonium group which can be represented by the following chemical formula (I):

[0090] in which

[0091] each of Ri and R2 designates an alkyl group in C1.3, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and, even better, a methyl group,

[0092] R3 designates an alkyl group in C1 24, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and, even better, a methyl group,

[0093] X designates an anion, preferably a halide, and, even better, a chloride,

[0094] n denotes an integer from 0 to 30, preferably from 0 to 10 and, even better, 0, and

[0095] R4 designates an alkylene group in Ci_4, preferably an ethylene or propylene group.

[0096] The leftmost ether bond (-O-) in the chemical formula (I) above can attach to the sugar ring of the polysaccharide.

[0097] It is preferable that the group containing the quaternary ammonium group be -O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-N+(CH3)3.

[0098] (3) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and described, for example, in US Patent No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxy-alkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- and hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted, for example, with a salt selected from the salts of methacryloyl-ethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium and dimethyldiallylammonium.

[0099] Commercial products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, products marketed under the names "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by the company National Starch.

[0100] (4) Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides described in US patents Numbers 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic tri-kylammonium groups, cationic hyaluronic acid, and hydroxypropyltrimonium dextran chloride. Guar gums modified with a salt, for example, 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride), may also be used.

[0101] These products are sold, for example, under the trade names JAGUAR® C13 S, JAGUAR® C15, JAGUAR® C17 and JAGUAR® C162 by the company MEYHALL.

[0102] (5) Polymers comprising piperazinyl motifs and alkylene or hy- groups Divalent droxyalkylene polymers comprising straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with at least one entity selected from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, aromatic rings, and heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.

[0103] (6) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared, for example, by polycon densification of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides being optionally crosslinked with an entity selected from among the epihalohydrins; diepoxides; dianhydrides; unsaturated dianhydrides; bisunsaturated derivatives; bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums; bishaloacyidiamines; bisalkyl halides; oligomers resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound that is reactive with an entity selected from among the bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums, bishaloacyl-diamines, bisalkyl halides; epihalohydrins; diepoxides and bisunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyamino amide; These polyaminoamides are optionally alkylated or, if they include at least one tertiary amine function, they can be quaternized. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.

[0104] (7) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyamines of poly- Alkylene with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents, for example, adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, and propyl groups, and the alkylene group comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as an ethylene group. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent No. 1,583,363. In at least one embodiment, these derivatives may be selected from adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine polymers.

[0105] (8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated dicarboxylic aliphatic acids comprising 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid may range from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio between the epichlorohydrin and the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. These polymers are described, for example, in US patent Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

[0106] (9) Alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallyl- cyclopolymers ammonium, such as homopolymers and copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, at least one motif among the motifs of formulas (la) and (Ib): fCHJk (Ia) ..HAS \ CSR HR

[0107]

[0108]

[0109]

[0110] [YES]

[0112]

[0113] --(OHg)t — ÇRi g HgCk .CHg X. XH""" Rio in which: k and t, which can be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1; R12 is chosen from among the hydrogen and methyl groups; Rio and Rn, which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups in which the alkyl group comprises, for example, 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and lower (Ci-C4)alkylamido groups, or R10 and Ru can form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl and morpholinyl; and Y' is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, and phosphate. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent no. 2,080,759 and its certificate of addition 2,190,406. In one embodiment, Rio and Ru, which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Among these polymers, we can mention, but not be limited to, (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride such as the dimethylidiethylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by CALGON (and its low weight average molecular weight counterparts) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name “MERQUAT® 550”.

[0114] Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (II): Ra (ll) | x" | r Rh Ru

[0115] in which:

[0116] Rn, Ru, Rb, and Ri6, which may be identical or different, are selected from aliphatic, alicyclic, and arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic groups; or Rn, Ru, R[5], and Ri6, together or separately, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles alternatively comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen; or R13, R14, R15, and R16, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl groups substituted by at least one group selected from alkyl groups, ester groups, acyl groups, amide groups, -CO-O-Rp-E groups, and -CO-NH-R17-E groups, where R17 is an alkylene group and E is a quaternary ammonium group. ;

[0117] Ai and Bb, which may be identical or different, are selected from polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may include, bonded or intercalated in the main chain, at least one entity selected from aromatic rings, oxygen, sulfur, sulfoxide groups, sulfone groups, disulfide groups, amino groups, alkylamino groups, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium groups, ureido groups, amide groups and ester groups, and

[0118] X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;

[0119] Ai, Rn and Rb can form, in conjugation with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

[0120] If Ai is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, Bi can be chosen from:

[0121] -(CH2)n-CO-E'-OC-(CH2)n-

[0122] in which E' is chosen from:

[0123] a) glycolic residues of formula -OZO-, in which Z is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and groups of the following formulas:

[0124] -(CH2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2-

[0125] -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-

[0126] in which x and y, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers from 1 to 4, which represent a defined and unique degree of polymerization, and numbers from 1 to 4, which represent an average degree of polymerization;

[0127] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as piperazine derivatives;

[0128] c) bis-primary diamine residues of formula -NH-Y-NH-, wherein Y is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and the divalent group -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-. and

[0129] d) ureylene groups of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0130] In at least one embodiment, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

[0131] Polymers of this type are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,320,330; 2,270,846; 2,316,271; 2,336,434; and 2,413,907 and in US patents Nos. 2,273,780; 2,375,853; 2,388,614; 2,454,547; 3,206,462; 2,261,002; 2,271,378; 3,874,870; 4,001,432; 3,929,990; 3,966,904; 4,005,193; 4,025,617; 4,025,627; 4,025,653; 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.

[0132] Non-limiting examples of these polymers include those comprising at least one repeating motif of formula (III): Rw (III) Rî4

[0133] in which

[0134] Rn, Ru, Rb and Ri6, which may be identical or different, are selected from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p, which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 20, and X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

[0135] (11) Polyquater ammonium polymers comprising formula motifs (IV): R® <IV) - - HAS- . x •. M *•' '» ; X" i

[0136] in which:

[0137] Ri8, R19, R20 and R2i, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl, -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)POH groups, wherein p is chosen from integers from 0 to 6, provided that R[8, Ri9, R20 and R2[ are not simultaneously hydrogen,

[0138] r and s, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers from 1 to 6,

[0139] q is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 34,

[0140] X is an anion, such as a halide, and

[0141] A is chosen from dihalide radicals and -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0142] These compounds are described, for example, in European patent application No. 0 122 324.

[0143] (12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

[0144] Other examples of suitable cationic polymers include, in particular, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising units selected from vinylpyridine and vinylpyridinium, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

[0145] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-1) cationic polymer is selected from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as the products marketed under the name "JR 400" by UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymers, for example, dimethyldiallyl chloride homopolymers and copolymers marketed under the names MERQUAT®, MERQUAT® 550, and MERQUAT® S by CALGON, guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt, and quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

[0146] (13) Polyamines

[0147] As a cationic (α-1) polymer, it is also possible to use (co)polyamines, which can be homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups. The amino group can be a primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amino group. The amino group can be present in the polymer backbone or as a pendant group, as appropriate, of the (co)polyamines.

[0148] Examples of (co)polyamines include chitosans, (co)polyallylamines, (co)polyvinylamines, (co)polyanilines, (co)polyvinylimidazoles, (co)polymethacrylates of dimethylaminoethylene, (co)polyvinylpyridines such as (co)poly-l-methyl-2-vinylpyridines, (co)polyimines such as (co)polyethyleneimines, (co)polypyridines such as (co)poly(quaternary pyridines), (co)polybiguanides such as (co)polyaminopropyl biguanides, (co)polylysines, (co)polyornithines, (co)poly arginines, (co)polyhistidines, aminodextrans, aminocelluloses, amino(co)polyvinylacetals and their salts.

[0149] As with (co)polyamines, it may be preferable to use (co)polylysines. Polylysine is well known. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine can be e-Poly-L-lysine, typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water, propylene glycol, and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly-D-lysine and poly-L-lysine. Poly-L-lysine is preferable. Polylysine can be in the form of a salt and / or a solution.

[0150] (14) Cationic polyamino acids

[0151] As a (a-1) cationic polymer, it may be possible to use cationic polyamino acids, which may be homopolymers or cationic copolymers, with a plurality of amino and carboxyl groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in a polymer backbone or a pendant group, as appropriate, of the cationic polyamino acids. The carboxyl group may be present in a pendant group, as appropriate, of the cationic polyamino acids.

[0152] Examples of cationic polyamino acids include cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydroxypropyl stear-dimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, hydroxypropyl stear-dimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, and the like.

[0153] The following descriptions relate to preferred embodiments of the cationic polymer.

[0154] It is preferable that the (a-1) cationic polymer be chosen from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)diallyldialkyl ammonium polychloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines, (co)polyamino acids cationic such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers and salts thereof.

[0155] It is more preferable that the (a-1) cationic polymer be chosen from among the chitosans.

[0156] It is preferable that the chitosan have a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000, preferably greater than 50,000 and, even better, greater than 80,000. In other words, the (a-1) cationic polymer is a high molecular weight chitosan.

[0157] The molecular weight (Da) of chitosan may be less than 1,000,000, preferably less than 500,000 and, better still, less than 300,000.

[0158] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of chitosan can be greater than 20,000 and less than 1,000,000, preferably greater than 50,000 and less than 500,000, and, better still, greater than 80,000 and less than 300,000.

[0159] Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means average molecular weight. Molecular weight can be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.

[0160] Chitosan is very rare in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, the zygomycetes.

[0161] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs linked together by a [3(1,4) type bond.

[0162] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of [3-D-glucosamine] monomers linked by a glycosidic bond (1—>4).

[0163] The "chitosan" of the present invention refers to any copolymer formed from constituent N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine motifs, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar motifs (deacetylated motifs) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs (acetylated motifs) linked together by [3(1,4)] type bonds and is a Poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) polymer.

[0164] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.

[0165] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated motifs relative to the total number of motifs; it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or by titration with a strong base.

[0166] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant foods or from biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

[0167] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of an Ascomycete fungus, and in particular Aspergillus niger, and / or of a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0168] Chitosan may be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organism) origin, but preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0169] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say, it is not modified. In particular, it contains no chemical modification.

[0170] One method for preparing chitosan is that described in WO03 / 068824.

[0171] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in powder form. It is marketed by Kitozyme under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime, for example Kiosmetine-CSH and Kiosmetine P.

[0172] It is preferable that the (a-1) cationic polymer be chosen from among the chitosans, and, better still, from the chitosans of molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

[0173] The amount of (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, better still, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] Furthermore, the quantity of (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, even better, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] The quantity of the (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0176] (Non-polymer monovalent acid or salt thereof)

[0177] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof. A single type of monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof, or a combination of different types of monovalent non-polymer acids or salts thereof, may be used.

[0178] The term "non-polymer" here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Therefore, a non-polymer acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers such as acrylic polyacids.

[0179] The term "salt" here refers to a salt formed by the addition of one or more suitable bases to the monovalent nonpolymeric acid, which can be obtained from a reaction of the monovalent nonpolymeric acid with the base or bases according to processes known to those skilled in the art. Examples of salts include metal salts, for example, alkali metal salts such as Na and K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.

[0180] Preferably the molecular weight (a-2) of the monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof is less than 1,000, preferably 500 or less and, even better, 200 or less.

[0181] The monovalent non-polymeric acid (a-2) or a salt thereof may be included in the aqueous phase formed by (d) water. The monovalent non-polymeric acid (a-2) or a salt thereof may promote the dissolution of the (a-1) cationic polymer in water (a-3).

[0182] The monovalent nonpolymeric acid (a-2) has a single acid group which may be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group or a mixture thereof.

[0183] The monovalent nonpolymeric acid (a-2) or a salt thereof may be chosen from monovalent organic or inorganic acids and their salts.

[0184] It is preferable that the monovalent non-polymeric acid (a-2) be a monovalent organic acid, and even better a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid.

[0185] The monovalent non-polymer carboxylic acid may be chosen from among the hydroxy acids, and preferably from alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids. Examples of alpha-hydroxy acids include lactic acid and glycolic acid. Examples of beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid.

[0186] Thus, the monovalent non-polymer acid can be a monovalent non-polymer organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymer carboxylic acid and, even better, a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid

[0187] The amount of monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acids or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, even better, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] The amount of monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acids or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, better still, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0189] The amount of monovalent non-polymeric (a-2) acids or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, even better, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] (Water)

[0191] The composition according to the present invention comprises water (a-3):

[0192] Water (a-3) can form an aqueous phase which can be a continuous phase of the composition according to the present invention

[0193] The quantity of (a-3) water may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more and, even better, 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0194] Furthermore, the quantity of (a-3) water may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less and, better still, 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0195] The quantity of (a-3) water may be from 40% to 90% by weight, preferably from 45% to 85% by weight and, even better, from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] (Oil)

[0197] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil (b-1). Only one type of oil may be used, but two or more different types of oils may be used in combination.

[0198] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0199] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0200] The oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0201] Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0202] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0203] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0204] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or poly-acids and of mo saturated or unsaturated aliphatic noalcohols or polyalcohols, linear or branched in Ci-C26, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0205] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0206] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0207] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and Ci-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols, may also be used.

[0208] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; trii-socetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0209] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids, and preferably of C12-C22 fatty acids, may be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon compounds bearing oxygen, containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0210] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0211] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C30, and preferably in Ci2-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0212] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0213] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0214] More specifically, monoesters and diesters are used, in particular mono-ooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0215] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0216] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0217] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0218] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, do-decamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0219] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0220] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0221] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0222] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and more particularly from:

[0223] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecam ethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula: p D ~ D ——DD — QH, I------------------------------j CHî j. i '• II with D*: """ ” O with D*: If "" O — :¼

[0224] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2',2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0225] (ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane, sold notably under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0226] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0227] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:

[0228] - Silbione® oils from ranges 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0229] - the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;

[0230] - oils from the Dow Corning 200 series, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s; and

[0231] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0232] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0233] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0234] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0235] in which

[0236] Ri at Rio are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals and, better still, C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

[0237] m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive and, better still, from 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0238] provided that the sum n+m+q is not 0.

[0239] The products sold under the following names are examples that can be cited:

[0240] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range by Rhodia;

[0241] - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;

[0242] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

[0243] - silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20;

[0244] - certain oils in the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0245] As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to R10 are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=l in the formula above) is preferable.

[0246] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0247] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0248] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

[0249] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam^ and squalane.

[0250] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0251] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and even better, 12 or more carbon atoms, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

[0252] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and, even better, from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0253] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, lino-leyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0254] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0255] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, preferably from saturated, linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, and, even better, from saturated, linear or branched Ci2-C20 alcohols.

[0256] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be chosen from any saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among the alcohols Saturated C6-C30 fatty acids, linear or branched, and saturated C2-C2O fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used preferentially. Any saturated C6-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used preferentially. Branched C6-C20 fatty alcohols may be used even more, or even better.

[0257] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0258] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0259] It is preferable that the oil (b-1) be chosen from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils and mixtures thereof. Synthetic ester oils may be selected from artificial triglycerides.

[0260] The quantity of the (b-1) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more and, better still, 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0261] The quantity of the (b-1) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less and, better still, 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0262] The quantity of the oil(s) (b-1) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 45% by weight and, even better, from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0263] (aminobasic acid)

[0264] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b-2) at least one basic amino acid. Only one type of basic amino acid may be used, or two or more different types of basic amino acids may be used in combination.

[0265] The (b-2) aminobasic acid is different from (a-2) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof.

[0266] The term "amino acid" here refers to a compound that is not obtained by polycondensation of identical or different amino acids. Furthermore, the term "amino acid" here encompasses not only an amino acid itself, but also an amino acid in the form of a salt thereof.

[0267] The term "salt" herein refers to a salt formed by the addition of suitable acid(s) and / or base(s) to the amino acid, which can be obtained from a reaction with the amino acid with the acid(s) and / or base(s) according to methods known to humankind. trade. As salts, we can mention metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K and alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca and ammonium salts.

[0268] The aminobasic acid (b-2) may have two or more amine functional groups such as amino groups and one acid functional group such as a carboxyl group, preferably two amine functional groups such as an amino group (-NH2) and an imidazoyl functional group and one acid functional group such as a carboxyl group.

[0269] Examples of (b-2) aminobasic acids that can be used in the present invention include arginine, lysine, histidine, and mixtures thereof. Among these, histidine is preferred.

[0270] The amount of (b-2) basic amino acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and even better 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition

[0271] The amount of (b-2) basic amino acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition

[0272] The quantity of (f) aminobasic (b-2) acids in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and, even better, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0273] (Optional ingredient)

[0274] The composition according to the present invention may include, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients typically used in cosmetics, namely surfactants / emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, derived, for example, from synthetic polymers other than the (a-1) cationic polymer; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents such as monovalent or divalent alcohol (e.g., ethanol and pentylene glycol); anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers such as beta-glucan; silicones and silicone derivatives; natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than the (a-1) cationic polymer; waxes; and the like, within a range that does not compromise the effects of the present invention.

[0275] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight and, even better, 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0276] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one fatty acid. However, it is preferable that the amount of fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention be limited. For example, the amount of fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight and, even better, less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention not comprise any fatty acid.

[0277] The amount of synthetic surfactant(s) / emulsifier(s) or thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight and, even better, less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include any synthetic surfactant / emulsifier or thickener.

[0278] In particular, it is preferable that the quantity of surfactant(s) in the composition be limited. Thus, if the composition according to the present invention includes at least one surfactant, the quantity of the surfactant(s) may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and, better still, less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention not include any surfactant.

[0279] The amount of the anionic polymer(s) or amphoteric polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and better still, less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include any anionic or amphoteric polymer.

[0280] [Preparation]

[0281] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0282] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0283] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and homogenizer. Furthermore, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process of preparing the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

[0284] It may be preferable for the composition according to the present invention to be prepared by a process comprising the following steps:

[0285] (1) mixture

[0286] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer;

[0287] (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof and

[0288] (a-3) of water

[0289] to form a first mixture (a);

[0290] (2) mixture

[0291] (b-1) at least one oil and

[0292] (b-2) at least one basic amino acid.

[0293] to form a second mixture (b) and

[0294] (3) mixture

[0295] the first mixture (a) and the second mixture (b) to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0296] The process for preparing the composition according to the present invention may further include an optional step of mixing at least one surfactant, provided that the quantity of the surfactant(s) is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight and, even better, less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0297] [Cosmetic application]

[0298] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance. Here, keratinous substance means a material containing keratin as its principal constituent, and examples thereof include skin, scalp, lips, hair, and the like. Therefore, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process on the keratinous substance, in particular the skin.

[0299] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition for the skin, preferably a cosmetic skin care composition or a skin makeup composition and, even better, a cosmetic skin care composition.

[0300] [Form]

[0301] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (a) at least one aqueous phase and (b) at least one oily phase. The (a) aqueous phase may comprise, at least, water (a-3). The (b) oily phase may comprise, at least, oil (b-1).

[0302] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (a) aqueous phase can function as a continuous phase, while the (b) oily phases can function as discontinuous phases. The composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) dispersion such as an oil-in-water emulsion. Since the composition according to the present invention can be of the oil-in-water type, it can provide a sensation of freshness thanks to the aqueous phase comprising water, which forms its outer phase.

[0303] The (a) aqueous phase may include the (a-1) cationic polymer, the monovalent non-polymeric acid (a-2) or a salt thereof, and water (a-3).

[0304] The amount of (a) the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 45% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more and, better still, 55% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0305] Furthermore, the quantity of the aqueous phase (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less and, even better, 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0306] The quantity of the aqueous phase (a) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 45% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight and, even better, from 55% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0307] The (b) fatty phases may include oil (b-1) and aminobasic acid (b-2).

[0308] The quantity of fatty phases (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more and, better still, 25% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0309] Furthermore, the quantity of fatty phases (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 55% by weight or less, preferably 50% by weight or less and, even better, 45% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0310] The quantity of fatty phases (b) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 5% to 55% by weight, preferably from 15% to 50% by weight and, even better, from 25% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0311] The composition according to the present invention can be used to easily prepare a film. In other words, the composition according to the present invention can form a film.

[0312] Thus, the present invention may also relate to a process for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness of 0.5 µm or more, better still, of 1.0 µm or more, and even better still, of 1.5 µm or more, comprising:

[0313] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, better still, the skin, of the composition according to the present invention and

[0314] the drying of the composition.

[0315] The upper limit of the thickness of the film according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, for example, the thickness of the film according to the present invention can be 300 µm or less, preferably 200 µm or less and, even better, 100 µm or less.

[0316] Since the process for preparing a film according to the present invention comprises the steps of applying the composition according to the present invention onto a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance and, even better, skin, and drying the composition, the process according to the present invention does not require deposition on a turntable or spraying, and it is therefore possible to easily prepare a relatively thick film. Thus, the process for preparing a film according to the present invention can prepare a relatively thick film without any special equipment such as deposition turntables and spraying machines.

[0317] If the substrate is not a keratinous substance such as skin, the composition according to the present invention can be applied to a substrate made of any material other than keratin. The materials of the non-keratinous substrate are not limited. Two or more materials can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of material or a combination of different types of materials can be used. In all cases, it is preferable that the substrate be flexible or elastic.

[0318] If the non-keratinous substrate is in the form of a sheet, it may have a thickness greater than that of the film according to the present invention, in order to facilitate the handling of the film attached to the substrate sheet. The thickness of the non-keratinous substrate sheet is not limited, but may be from 1 µm to 5 mm, preferably from 10 µm to 1 mm, and, even better, from 50 to 500 µm.

[0319] It is preferable that the film according to the present invention be able to be released from the non-keratin substrate. The method of release is not limited. Therefore, the film according to the present invention can be peeled off the non-keratin substrate.

[0320] The present invention may also relate to:

[0321] (1) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally of a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 pm, better still, 1.0 pm or more, and even better still, 1.5 pm or more, prepared by a process comprising:

[0322] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance and, even better, to the skin, of the composition according to the present invention and

[0323] drying of the composition,

[0324] and

[0325] (2) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally of a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 pm, better still, 1.0 pm or more, better still, 1.5 pm or more, including:

[0326] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer;

[0327] (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; and

[0328] (b-1) at least one oil and

[0329] (b-2) at least one basic amino acid.

[0330] The above explanations concerning the cationic polymer (a-1), and the monovalent non-polymeric acid (a-2) or a salt thereof, as well as the oil (b-1) and the aminobasic acid (b-2), for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those of the above film (2).

[0331] The film according to the present invention may be biocompatible and / or biodegradable.

[0332] The term "biocompatible" in this specification means that the film does not have excessive interaction between the film and the cells of the living body, including the skin, and the film is not recognized by the living body as a foreign body.

[0333] The term “biodegradable” in this descriptive document means that the film can be degraded or broken down in a living body due, for example, to the metabolism of the living body itself, or to the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in the living body. Furthermore, the biodegradable film can be degraded by hydrolysis.

[0334] If the film according to the present invention is biocompatible and / or biodegradable, for example, it is less irritating or non-irritating to the skin and / or it may not contaminate environments.

[0335] In fact, the film according to the present invention may include the (a-1) cationic polymer selected from among the chitosans which are biodegradable polymers.

[0336] The film according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments of keratinous substances, preferably the skin, particularly the face. The film according to the present invention can be in any shape.

[0337] If the film according to the present invention includes at least one cosmetic active ingredient, the film can provide cosmetic effects based on the cosmetic active ingredient(s). Since the cosmetic active ingredient(s) can be retained in the film according to the present invention, the film can ensure a prolonged release of the cosmetic active ingredient(s). For example, if the cosmetic active ingredient is an anti-acne agent, the film according to the present invention, including the anti-acne agent, can provide long-lasting anti-acne effects.

[0338] [Cosmetic process and use]

[0339] The present invention also relates to:

[0340] a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance or

[0341] a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a cosmetic film on a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0342] The cosmetic process here refers to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of the surface of a keratinous substance such as the skin.

[0343] It is also possible to apply a cosmetic makeup composition to the cosmetic film according to the present invention after its application to the skin.

[0344] The present invention also relates to the use of at least one aminobasic acid (b-2)

[0345] in a composition comprising:

[0346] (a-1) at least one cationic polymer;

[0347] (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

[0348] (a-3) of water and

[0349] (b-1) at least one oil,

[0350] in order to stabilize and deodorize the composition.

[0351] The above explanations concerning the cationic polymer (a-1), the monovalent non-polymeric acid (a-2) or a salt thereof, and water (a-3), as well as oil (b-1) and aminobasic acid (b-2), for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those of the above use.

[0352] EXAMPLES

[0353] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Example 1 and Comparative Example 1

[0354] [Preparation]

[0355] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0356] [Tables] Example 1 Example Compound 1 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Chitosan (80% aqueous solution by weight) 2 2 Lactic acid 1 1 Histidine 1 - Zea Mays (Corn) germ oil 30 30 Stability Good Bad Odor Good Bad

[0357] [Evaluations]

[0358] (Stability)

[0359] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was stored in a transparent container and centrifuged at 4,000 rpm for 50 minutes using a Lumisizer (LUM GmbH) at room temperature (25 °C). The stability of the compositions was observed visually and evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0360] Good: The composition was uniform.

[0361] Bad: Phase separation was observed.

[0362] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0363] The composition according to example 1 was stable to maintain a uniform emulsified appearance, without phase separation, whereas the composition according to comparative example 1 was not stable because phase separation was observed.

[0364] (Odor)

[0365] The odor of the compositions according to example 1 and comparative example 1 was verified by 5 panelists and evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0366] Good: The composition did not cause any odor (oxidative rancidity).

[0367] Bad: The composition caused an odor (oxidative rancidity).

[0368] The majority of the evaluation, as results, is presented in Table 1.

[0369] The composition according to example 1 did not cause any odor, whereas the composition according to comparative example 1 caused an odor due to oxidative rancidity. Example 2 and comparative example 2

[0370] [Preparation]

[0371] Each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 2. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients shown in Table 2 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0372] [Tables2] Ex. 2 Ex. Comp. 2 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Chitosan (80% aqueous solution by weight) 2 2 Lactic acid 1 1 Histidine 1 - Caprylic / capric triglyceride 30 30 Stability Good Bad Odor Good Bad

[0373] [Evaluations]

[0374] (Stability)

[0375] Each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Example 1 was stored in a transparent container and centrifuged at 4,000 rpm for 50 minutes using a Lumisizer (LUM GmbH) at room temperature (25 °C). The stability of the compositions was observed visually and evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0376] Good: The composition was uniform.

[0377] Bad: Phase separation was observed.

[0378] The results are shown in Table 2.

[0379] The composition according to example 2 was stable in maintaining a uniform emulsified appearance, without phase separation, whereas the composition according to comparative example 2 was not stable because phase separation was observed.

[0380] (Odor)

[0381] The odor of the compositions according to example 2 and comparative example 1 was verified by 5 panelists and evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0382] Good: The composition did not cause any odor.

[0383] Bad: The composition caused an odor.

[0384] The majority of the evaluation, as results, is presented in Table 2.

[0385] The composition according to example 2 did not produce any odor, whereas the composition according to comparative example 2 produced an odor due to rancidity oxidative of the oil.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic composition, and more preferably cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising (a-1) at least one cationic polymer; (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; (a-3) water; (b-1) at least one oil and (b-2) at least one basic amino acid.

2. A composition according to Claim 1, wherein the cationic polymer (a-1) is selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkylammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines and chitosans, cationic (co)polyamino acids such as collagen, cationic cellulosic polymers and their salts.

3. A composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a-1) cationic polymer has a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

4. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 3 in which the quantity of (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, better still, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. A composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein (a-2) the monovalent non-polymeric acid is a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.

6. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the oil (b-1) is chosen from vegetable oils and synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof

7. A composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the aminobasic acid (b-2) is selected from the group consisting of lysine, histidine, arginine and their salts.

8. A composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (a-1) cationic polymer and (b-2) aminobasic acid form at least one complex.

9. A cosmetic process for a keratin substance such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratin substance the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8 and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratin substance.

10. Use (b-2) of at least one basic amino acid in a composition comprising: (a-1) at least one cationic polymer; (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; (a-3) water and (b-1) at least one oil, in order to stabilize and deodorize the composition.