STABLE UV PROTECTION COMPOSITION
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023008204
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-07-28
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-15
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-07-28
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions with high UV filter concentrations face stability issues due to high surfactant content, leading to a heavy or sticky texture during application.
A composition comprising amino acid surfactants, esters of fatty acid polyglyceryle with an HLB value of 6 or more, fatty alcohols, and UV filters, which form a homogeneous film for effective UV protection while maintaining a soft, non-sticky texture.
The composition achieves stability and uniform UV protection with a soft, non-sticky texture by using specific surfactants and UV filters, ensuring long-term homogeneity and pleasant application.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: STABLE UV PROTECTION COMPOSITION
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic or dermatological composition, which is stable, comprising at least one UV filter. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Currently, one of the technical challenges in the cosmetic fields is to provide a stable composition with a high UV protection capacity as well as a soft or non-sticky texture during application.
[0003] Conventional sun care compositions with a high concentration of UV filter(s) for high UV protection performance must have a high concentration of surfactant(s) and ensure good stability of the compositions. However, such a high concentration of surfactant(s) tends to cause a heavy or sticky texture upon application. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0004] A UV protection performance of a composition including one or more UV filters depends on the homogeneity of a film, including the UV filter(s), formed by the composition.
[0005] An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition which can provide a homogeneous film that provides good UV protection.
[0006] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising: a. at least one amino acid surfactant; b. at least one polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid; c. at least one UV filter; and d. at least one fatty alcohol,
[0007] in which
[0008] the HLB value of the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) is 6 or more, preferably 7 or more, and more preferably 8 or more, and
[0009] the fatty acid moiety of the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 16 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 14 or fewer, and more preferably 12 or fewer.
[0010] The (a) amino acid surfactant may be chosen from the compounds represented by the formula (A): T (A) CHgfCH^j-CONH ÇH (CH^ ko ÇH—Y' (ch2}„ NH |=q (ÇH^ GHgCCHPi-CQNH ÇH (CHjJja V'
[0011] in which
[0012] Y1 independently denotes a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group,
[0013] jl, kl, j2 and k2 denote integers such that (jl, kl, j2, k2) = any one of (2,0,2,0), (2,0,0,2), (0,2,2,0) and (0,2,0,2), and
[0014] 1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and more preferably initially from 10 to 12.
[0015] The (a) amino acid surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of dilaurami-doglutamide sodium lysine, dimyristoylglutamide sodium lysine and distearoyl-glutamide sodium lysine, and a mixture thereof.
[0016] The amount of the (a) amino acid surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0017] The (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 laurate, PG4 caprate, PG5 laurate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 caprylate, PG10 laurate, and a mixture thereof.
[0018] The amount of the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0019] The (c) UV filter may be chosen from organic UV filters, and preferably from the group consisting of butyl methoxydimenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate and their mixture.
[0020] The amount of the (c) UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0021] The (d) fatty alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
[0022] The quantity of the (d) fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0023] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) water.
[0024] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 40% to 70% by weight, preferably from 45% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0025] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O / W emulsion.
[0026] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin.
[0027] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention. Best mode for carrying out the invention
[0028] After careful research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to provide a stable composition which can provide a homogeneous film which provides good UV protection.
[0029] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising: a. at least one amino acid surfactant; a. at least one polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid having an HLB value of 8 or higher; b. at least one UV filter; and c. at least one fatty alcohol,
[0030] in which
[0031] the HLB value of the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) is 6 or more, preferably 7 or more, and more preferably 8 or more, and
[0032] the fatty acid moiety of the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 16 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 14 or fewer, and more preferably 12 or fewer.
[0033] The composition according to the present invention protects against UV or is capable of protect against UV rays, because it includes (c) at least one UV filter.
[0034] The composition according to the present invention can form a homogeneous or uniform film including the (c) UV filter(s) which can provide a homogeneous or uniform distribution of the (c) UV filter(s), which can provide good UV protection.
[0035] The composition according to the present invention is stable. The term "stable" herein means that the appearance of a composition does not change, for example, as a result of aggregation or phase separation. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is stable over a long period.
[0036] Also, the composition according to the present invention can provide a good texture, such as a soft or non-sticky feel to the touch during application. In other words, the composition according to the present invention is not sticky when applied to a keratinous substance such as skin. The term "sticky" herein means a property that gives a sticky feel to the skin.
[0037] In summary, the composition according to the present invention is stable and can form a homogeneous or uniform film which can provide good UV protection. In addition, the composition according to the present invention can provide a good texture such as a soft or non-sticky feel during application.
[0038] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is suitable for cosmetic products, in particular for cosmetic sun care products such as a skin care cream.
[0039] The composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below. [Amino acid surfactant]
[0040] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one amino acid surfactant. Only one type of amino acid surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of amino acid surfactants may be used in combination.
[0041] The (a) amino acid surfactant is an anionic surfactant based on an amino acid or its derivatives. Typically, the (a) amino acid surfactant is an anionic surfactant comprising at least one amino moiety and at least one carboxylic acid moiety which is in the form of a carboxylate. The (a) amino acid surfactant may have two or more amino moieties and / or two or more carboxylic acid moieties which are in the form of carboxylates.
[0042] The (a) amino acid surfactant may preferably be chosen from amino acid derivatives. The amino acid derivative may more preferably be chosen from salts of amino acids and N-acylated amino acids, for example alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts of amino acids and N-acylated amino acids, such as sodium salts, potassium salts, magnesium salts and calcium salts of amino acids and N-acylated amino acids.
[0043] The acyl group which forms the N-acyl moiety of the amino acid derivatives may be a C1-C30 acyl group, preferably a C6-C28 acyl group, and more preferably a C12-C24 acyl group.
[0044] The (a) amino acid surfactant may even more preferably be chosen from the group consisting of glutamates, N-acylated glutamates, aspartates, N-acylated aspartates and their salts.
[0045] Examples of the (a) amino acid surfactant include, but are not limited to: • sarcosinates, such as N-acyl sarcosinates (salts), for example, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sold as Nikkol Sarcosinate™ LN by Nikko Chemicals or sold as Pureact™ LSR by Innospec Performance Chemicals Europe Limited; sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sold as Nikkol Sarcosinate™ MN by Nikko Chemicals; and sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold as Nikkol Sarcosinate™ PN by Nikko Chemicals; • alaninates, such as N-acyl alaninates (salts), for example sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate™ LN 30 by Nikko Chemicals or sold under the name Alanone® ALE by Kawaken; sodium cocoyl alaninates, sold under the name Amilite® ACS-12 by Ajinomoto; and triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, sold under the name Alanone® ALTA by Kawaken; • glutamates, such as N-acyl glutamates (salts), for example, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sold under the name Eumulgin® SR by BASF Japan; sodium lauroyl glutamate, sold under the name Plantapon® Amino SLG-P by BASF Japan; triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft® CT-12 by Ajinomoto; triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft® LT-12 by Ajinomoto; and disodium stearoyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft® HS-21P by Ajinomoto; • aspartates, such as N-acyl aspartates (salts), for example, disodium N-lauroyl aspartate, sold under the name AminoFoamer® FLMS-P1 by Asahi Kasei; and a mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate, sold under the name AminoFoamer® FCMT-L by Asahi Kasei; and • glycinates, such as N-acyl glycinates (salts), for example sodium N-cocoyl glycinate, sold under the name Amilite® GCS-12K; and potassium N-cocoyl glycinate, sold under the name Amilite® GCK-12K by Ajinomoto.
[0046] It is preferable that the (a) amino acid surfactant is chosen from surfactants gemini amino acid which are gemini surfactants based on amino acids.
[0047] Gemini surfactants or dimeric surfactants are well known. For a detailed description of the various chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, reference may be made to the following publications:
[0048] Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Vol. 113, December 1998, pp. 49-55; And
[0049] Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, Vol. 116, no. 7, pp. 67-70.
[0050] The gemini amino acid surfactant is anionic and comprises a plurality of hydrophobic moieties and a plurality of hydrophilic moieties.
[0051] The gemini amino acid surfactant may be selected from compounds with two or more fatty amide groups (hereinafter, it may be referred to as an "amide compound"). The amide compound may be represented by the following formula (A): y. (A) CH3(CH2)| - CO NH ÇH (CH^ 1=0 ÇH—Y' (CH2)4 NH |=O (CH^ CHgCCHa),- CONH -ÇH (CHaJjà Y'
[0052] in which
[0053] Y' independently denotes a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group,
[0054] j 1, kl, j2 and k2 denote an integer such that (j 1, kl, j2, k2) = any one of (2,0,2,0), (2,0,0,2), (0,2,2,0) and (0,2,0,2), and
[0055] 1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and more preferably initially from 10 to 12.
[0056] Preferably, in formula (A), 1 denotes an integer from 8 to 12, jl = j2 = 0 and kl = k2 = 2.
[0057] Most preferably, in formula (A), Y' is -COONa, j 1 = j2 = 0, kl = k2 = 2; and 1 = 10.
[0058] As the above amide compound represented by formula (A), there may be mentioned sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine. Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is particularly preferable. Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine is marketed under the name PELLICER L-30 by Asahi Chemicals in aqueous solution at a concentration of 29% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution or PELLICER LB-30G by Asahi Chemicals in aqueous solution at a concentration of 27.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution.
[0059] The above amide compound represented by formula (A) can be prepared, for example, by reacting a long-chain acidic n-acyl amino acid anhydride with a basic amino acid, such as lysine, in water and / or a mixed solvent of water and organic solvent(s), or in an inert organic solvent(s) such as tetrahydrofuran, benzene, toluene, xylene tetrachloromethane, chloroform, acetone or the like, or without any solvent, at -5°C to 200°C, preferably from 5°C to 100°C, and more preferably from 0°C to 60°C.
[0060] Thus, the gemini amino acid surfactant may be an N-acylglutamate / amino acid derivative, preferably a dipeptide of two N-acylglutamates and a basic amino acid such as lysine.
[0061] The amount of the (a) amino acid surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0062] Furthermore, the amount of the (a) amino acid surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0063] Thus, the amount of the (a) amino acid surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid]
[0064] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester with specific conditions. Only one type of fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be used, but two or more different types of such fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may be used in combination.
[0065] The (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester used for the present invention has an HLB value of 6 or more, preferably 7 or more, and more preferably 8 or more.
[0066] The (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester used for the present invention may have an HLB value of 18 or less, preferably 17 or less, and more preferably 16 or less.
[0067] Thus, the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester used for the present invention may have an HLB value of 6 to 18, preferably of 7 to 17, and more preferably of 8 to 16.
[0068] If two or more (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl esters.
[0069] The fatty acid moiety of the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester used for the present invention comprises 16 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 14 or fewer, and more preferably 12 or fewer. If the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has two or more fatty acid moieties, each of the fatty acid moieties comprises 16 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 14 or fewer, and more preferably 12 or fewer.
[0070] The fatty acid moiety of the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester used for the present invention may comprise 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 5 or more, and more preferably 6 or more. If the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has two or more fatty acid moieties, each of the fatty acid moieties may comprise 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 5 or more, and more preferably 6 or more.
[0071] Thus, the fatty acid moiety of the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester used for the present invention may comprise from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 12 carbon atoms. If the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester has two or more fatty acid moieties, each of the fatty acid moieties may comprise from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 12 carbon atoms.
[0072] The above (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester used for the present invention (hereinafter, simply referred to as (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester) can function as a surfactant, particularly a nonionic surfactant.
[0073] The (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be chosen from mono, di, tri esters and higher esters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.
[0074] The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or moieties of the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be saturated or unsaturated, and may be selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, and linoleic acid, preferably selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, and myristic acid, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid.
[0075] It is preferable that the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises from 2 to 14 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 12 glycerol units, and more preferably from 2 to 10 glycerol units.
[0076] The (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 sesquicaprylate (HLB: about 8), PG2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), PG3 caprate (HLB: about 14), PG4 caprylate (HLB: 14), PG4 caprate (HLB: 14), PG4 oleate (HLB: 8.8), PG4 laurate (HLB: 10.3), PG4 isostearate (HLB: 8.2), PG5 myristate (HLB: 15.4), PG5 stearate (HLB: 15), PG5 oleate (HLB: 12.2), PG5 laurate (HLB: 11), PG5 caprate ... PG6 (HLB: 13.1), PG6 dicaprate (HLB: 10), PG6 caprylate (HLB: 15), PG6 laurate (HLB: 14.1), PG6 dioleate (HLB: 9.8), PG6 isostearate (HLB: 10.8), PG6 distearate (HLB: 8), PG10 laurate (HLB: 16), PG10 myristate (HLB: 14.9), PG10 stearate (HLB: 14.1), PG10 isostearate (HLB: 13.7), PG10 oleate (HLB: 13.0), PG10 trilaurate (HLB: 10.4), PG10 distearate (HLB: about 9), PG10 tristearate PG10 (HLB: 8), PG10 diisostearate (HLB: 10),PG10 triisostearate (HLB: 8), PG10 dioleate (HLB: about 11), PG10 cocoate (HLB: 16), PG10 dicocoate (HLB: 12), PG10 tricocoate (HLB: 9), and mixtures thereof. "PG" is an abbreviation for polyglyceryl. ,
[0077] It may be preferable that the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) may also be selected from the group consisting of PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), PG4 caprate (HLB: 14), PG5 laurate (HLB: 11), PG6 dicaprate (HLB: 10), PG6 caprylate (HLB: 15), PG10 laurate (HLB: 16), and mixtures thereof.
[0078] The amount of the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0079] Furthermore, the amount of the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 2% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0080] The amount of the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [UV Filter]
[0081] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one UV filter. Two or more different types of (c) UV filters may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (c) UV filter or a combination of different types of filters UV (c) can be used.
[0082] There is no limit as to the type of the (c) UV filter. The (c) UV filter may be selected from inorganic UV filters, organic UV filters and mixtures thereof. It is preferable that the (c) UV filter is selected from organic UV filters.
[0083] The amount of the (c) UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0084] Furthermore, the amount of the (c) UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0085] The amount of the (c) UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0086] (Inorganic UV Filter)
[0087] The (c) UV filter may be selected from inorganic UV filters. If two or more inorganic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different.
[0088] The inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic. The inorganic UV filter is preferably insoluble in solvents such as water and ethanol commonly used in cosmetics.
[0089] It is preferable that the inorganic UV filter is in the form of a fine particle such that the average particle diameter (primary) thereof ranges from 1 nm to 50 pm, preferably from 5 nm to 500 nm, and more preferably from 10 nm to 200 nm. The average particle size (primary) or the average particle diameter (primary) is here an arithmetic average diameter.
[0090] The inorganic UV filter may be chosen from the group consisting of metal oxides which may or may not be coated, and mixtures thereof.
[0091] Preferably, the inorganic UV filter may be chosen from pigments (average size of primary particles: generally from 5 nm to 50 nm, preferably from 10 nm to 50 nm) formed from metal oxides, such as, for example, pigments formed from titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline in rutile and / or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, which are all UV photoprotective agents well known as such. Preferably, the inorganic UV filter is chosen from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, and more preferably titanium oxide.
[0092] The inorganic UV filter may or may not be coated. The inorganic UV filter may have at least one coating. The coating may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or salts thereof (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters and (per)fluorinated compounds.
[0093] It is preferable that the coating includes at least one organic UV filter. As an organic UV filter in the coating, a dibenzoylmethane derivative such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and 2,2'-Methylenebis[6-(2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-Tetramethyl-Butyl)Phenol] (Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol) marketed under the name "TINOSORB M" by BASF may be preferable.
[0094] In known manner, the silicones in the coating(s) may be organosilicon polymers or oligomers comprising a linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes and essentially composed of repeating main units in which the silicon atoms are linked to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked to said silicon atoms via a carbon atom.
[0095] The term “silicones” also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkylsilanes.
[0096] The silicones used for the coating(s) may preferably be chosen from the group consisting of alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. Even more preferably, the silicones are chosen from the group consisting of octyltrimethylsilanes, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrosiloxanes.
[0097] Of course, inorganic UV filters consisting of metal oxides may, before their treatment with silicones, have been treated with other surfactants, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds or mixtures thereof.
[0098] The coated inorganic UV filter may have been prepared by subjecting the inorganic UV filter to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with any of the compounds described above, as well as polyethylenes, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum alkoxides), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, and those shown, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64.
[0099] Coated inorganic UV filters may be coated titanium oxides:
[0100] silica, such as the product “Sunveil” from Ikeda, and “Sunsil TIN 50” from Sunjin Chemical;
[0101] silica and iron oxide, such as Ikeda's "Sunveil F" product;
[0102] of silica and alumina, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA” from Tayca, “Tioveil” from Tioxide, and “Mirasun TiW 60” from Rhodia;
[0103] alumina, such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55 (B)” and “Tipaque TTO-55 (A)” from Ishihara, and “UVT 14 / 4” from Kemira;
[0104] of alumina and aluminum stearate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z or MT-01” from Tayca, the products “Solaveil CT-10 W” and “Solaveil CT 100” from Uniqema, and the product “Eusolex T-AVO” from Merck;
[0105] alumina and aluminum laurate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S” from Tayca;
[0106] iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F” from Tayca;
[0107] zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as Tayca's product “BR351”;
[0108] of silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS”, “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS” and “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS” from Tayca;
[0109] of silica, alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone, such as the product “STT-30-DS” from Titan Kogyo;
[0110] of silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product “UV-Titan X 195” from Kemira;
[0111] of alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55 (S)” from Ishihara or “UV Titan M 262” from Kemira;
[0112] triethanolamine, such as the product “STT-65-S” from Titan Kogyo;
[0113] stearic acid, such as the product “Tipaque TTO-55 (C)” from Ishihara or
[0114] sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W” from Tayca.
[0115] Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are preferably TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the average size of the individual particles is 25 and 40 nm, such as that marketed under the brand name "T 805" by Degussa Silices, TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and for which the average size of the individual particles is 21 nm, such as that marketed under the brand name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2Si3" by Cardre, and anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrosiloxane and for which the average size of the individual particles is 25 nm, such as that marketed under the brand name "Microtitanium Dioxide USP carbonate Hydrophobie" by Color Techniques.
[0116] Preferably, the following coated TiO2 can be used as an in- UV filter organic coated:
[0117] stearic acid (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's product "MT-100 TV", with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
[0118] dimethicone (and) stearic acid (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product "SA-TTO-S4" from Miyoshi Kasei, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
[0119] silica (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's product “MT-100 WP”, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
[0120] dimethicone (and) silica (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's product "MT-Y02" and "MT-Y-110 M3S", with an average primary particle diameter of 10 nm;
[0121] dimethicone (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product “SA-TTO-S3” by Miyoshi Kasei, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
[0122] dimethicone (and) alumina (and) TiO2, such as the product “UV TITAN M170” from Sachtleben, with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm and
[0123] silica (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) alginic acid (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's product "MT-100 AQ", with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm.
[0124] In terms of UV filtering capability, TiO2 coated with at least one organic UV filter is preferable. For example, avobenzone (and) stearic acid (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's product "HXMT-100ZA", with an average primary particle diameter of 15 nm, can be used.
[0125] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Tayca under the trademarks “Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B” or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B”, by Degussa under the trademark “P 25”, by Wacker under the trademark “Transparent Titanium Oxide PW”, by Miyoshi Kasei under the trademark “UFTR”, by Tomen under the trademark “ITS”, and by Tioxide under the trademark “Tioveil AQ”.
[0126] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0127] those marketed under the brand name “Z-cote” by Sunsmart;
[0128] those marketed under the brand name “Nanox” by Elementis and
[0129] those marketed under the brand name “Nanogard WCD 2025” by Nanophase Technologies.
[0130] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
[0131] those marketed under the brand name “Oxide Zinc CS-5” by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane);
[0132] those marketed under the brand name “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN” by Nanophase Technologies (in 40% dispersion in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, Finsolv TN);
[0133] those marketed under the brand name “Daitopersion Zn-30” and “Daitopersion Zn- 50” by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane / cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% silica-coated zinc nanooxides and polymethylhydrosiloxane);
[0134] those marketed under the brand name “NFD Ultrafine ZnO” by Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a perfluoroalkylethyl-based copolymer dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane);
[0135] those marketed under the brand name “SPD-Z1” by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with a silicone-grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);
[0136] those marketed under the brand name “Escalol Z100” by ISP (ZnO treated with alumina dispersed in an ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene / methicone copolymer mixture);
[0137] those marketed under the brand name “Fuji ZnO-SMS-10” by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); and those marketed under the brand name “Nanox Gel TN” by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
[0138] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are marketed, for example, under the brand name “Colloidal Cerium Oxide” by Rhone-Poulenc.
[0139] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the brands “Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)”, “Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ”, “Nanogard FE 45R AQ” and “Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)”, or by Mitsubishi under the brand “TY-220”.
[0140] Coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the brands “Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)”, “Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)”, “Nanogard FE 45 BL 345” and “Nanogard FE 45 BL” or by BASF under the brand “Transparent iron oxide”.
[0141] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular, of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including a mixture of equal weights of titanium dioxide coated with silica and cerium dioxide coated with silica marketed by Ikeda under the brand name “Sunveil A”, as well as a mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product “M 261” marketed by Kemira, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such as the product “M 211” marketed by Kemira.
[0142] Coated inorganic UV filters are preferable, since the UV filtering effects of the inorganic UV filters can be enhanced. In addition, the coating(s) can help to uniformly or homogeneously disperse the UV filters in the composition according to the present invention.
[0143] (Organic UV filter)
[0144] The (c) UV filter can be chosen from organic UV filters. If two UV filters organic or more are used, they can be the same or different.
[0145] The organic UV filter may be hydrophobic or water-insoluble. The organic UV filter may function as an oily ingredient. Thus, the organic UV filter may form discontinuous or internal phases of the composition according to the present invention, if the composition according to the present invention is in the form of, for example, an O / W emulsion.
[0146] The organic UV filter may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The organic UV filter may be lipophilic or oil-soluble.
[0147] The organic UV filter can be solid or liquid. The terms "solid" and "liquid" denote a substance without fluidity and a substance with fluidity, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.
[0148] The organic UV filter may be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzal-malonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screen polymers and screen silicones; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds; guaiazulene and its derivatives; rutin and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.
[0149] Examples of organic UV filter(s) that may be cited are those indicated below under their INCI names, and their mixtures. • Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate, marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan MA” by Haarmann and Reimer. • Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, marketed in particular under the brand name “Parsol 1789” by Hoffmann-La Roche; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane. • Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the brand name “Parsol MCX” by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan E 1000” by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxycinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate. • Salicylic compounds: Homosalate (homomenthyl salicylate), marketed under the brand name “Eusolex HMS” by Rona / EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl sa- licylate; dipropylene glycol salicylate, marketed under the brand name “Dipsal” by Scher; and TEA salicylate, marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan TS” by Haarmann and Reimer. Camphor compounds, in particular benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the brand name “Eusolex 6300” by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SL” by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium me-thosulfate, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SO” by Chimex; and polyacry-lamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the brand name “Mexoryl SW” by Chimex. Benzophenone Compounds: Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the brand name “Uvinul 400” by BASF; benzophenone-2 (tetrahydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the brand name “Uvinul D50” by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, marketed under the brand name “Uvinul M40” by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid), marketed under the brand name “Uvinul MS40” by BASF; benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); marketed under the brand name “Helisorb 11” by Norquay; benzophenone-8, marketed under the brand name “Spectra-Sorb UV-24” by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate), marketed under the brand “UVINUL DS-49” by BASF; benzophenone-12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (UVINUL A+ by BASF).[3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds: Octocrylene, marketed in particular under the brand name “Uvinul N539” by BASF; and Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the brand name “Uvinul N35” by BASF. Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the brand name “Uvasorb HEB” by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the brand name “TINOSORB S” by CIBA GEIGY, and ethylhexyl triazone marketed under the brand name “UVINUL T150” by BASF. Benzotriazole compounds, in particular phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in USP 5240975. Benzalmalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and poly- organosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the trademark “Sol SLX” by Hoffmann-LaRoche. • Benzimidazole compounds, in particular phenylbenzimidazole derivatives. • Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. • Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: Derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and US Patent No. 2,463,264. • Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the brand name “Escalol 507” by ISP, glyceryl PABA and PEG-25 PABA, marketed under the brand name “Uvinul P25” by BASF. • methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds, such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol] marketed in solid form under the brand name “Mixxim BB / 200” by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] marketed in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the brand name “Tinosorb M” by BASF, or under the brand name “Mixxim BB / 100” by Fairmount Chemical, and derivatives as described in US Patent No. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197 26,184 and EP-893,119, and
[0150] Drometrizole trisiloxane, marketed under the brand name “Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie or “Mexoryl XL” by L'Oréal, as shown below. p-s'p z—If y HO / (O - If " : N—AP Î--V X-'.. / \\ ,v ' -y.- ” '"N ■■■■ < • Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, marketed under the brand name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V. • Screen polymers and screen silicones: The silicones described in WO 93 / 04665. • Dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene: The dimers described in DE-19855649. • 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds: l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
[0151] It is preferable that the organic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of:
[0152] butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methan one 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl} propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4, 6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-l (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazin e, camphor benzylkonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof. ,
[0153] It is preferable that the organic UV filter is chosen from the group consisting of butyl methoxydimenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate and their mixture. [Fatty alcohol]
[0154] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one fatty alcohol. Two or more different types of (d) fatty alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (d) fatty alcohol or a combination of different types of (d) fatty alcohols may be used.
[0155] The term "fatty" herein means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.
[0156] The (d) fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C12-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may be substituted or not by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0157] Non-limiting examples of (d) fatty alcohols that may be cited include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0158] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0159] The (d) fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
[0160] According to at least one embodiment, the (d) fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol), and / or a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.
[0161] It may be preferable that the (d) fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
[0162] The amount of (d) fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0163] Furthermore, the amount of (d) fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 2% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0164] The amount of (d) fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Water]
[0165] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) water.
[0166] (e) Water may form an aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0167] If the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion, (e) the water, if any, in the composition according to the present invention may form a continuous aqueous phase in the O / W emulsion.
[0168] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0169] Furthermore, the amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 65% by weight or less, and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0170] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 40% to 70% by weight, preferably from 45% to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Oil]
[0171] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.
[0172] Herein "oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0173] According to the present invention, the (f) oil is different from the (d) fatty alcohol.
[0174] The (f) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0175] The (f) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
[0176] In one embodiment, the vegetable oil may be chosen from oils extracted from plants, butters extracted from plants and mixtures thereof.
[0177] Examples of oils extracted from plants include linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0178] Examples of plant-derived butters include shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Madhuca longifolia butter (Bassia), mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya (kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter.
[0179] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0180] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0181] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0182] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0183] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0184] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used.
[0185] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.
[0186] As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C[2-C22] fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0187] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0188] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0189] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0190] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0191] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0192] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0193] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0194] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / succinate).
[0195] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodeca- methylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0196] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0197] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0198] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0199] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
[0200] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 with 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecame-ethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Cyclocopolymers of the di-methylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula: p D ~ DD - D —; CH, GH3 with D": — Si - O — with D': Si - o— CH, GsH.îZ
[0201] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and
[0202] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5x106 m2 / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.
[0203] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0204] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia; • Dow Corning's 200 range oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; and • Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0205] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.
[0206] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as a phenyl silicone oil.
[0207] The phenyl silicone oil can be chosen from phenyl silicones of the following formula:
[0208] where
[0209] Ri to Rio are, independently of each other, radicals based of saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbons, preferably radicals based on C1-C12 hydrocarbons, and more preferably radicals based on C1-C6 hydrocarbons, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and
[0210] m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,
[0211] provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.
[0212] Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names: • Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia; • oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; • Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; • silicones from Bayer’s PK range, such as the PK20 product; • certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0213] As phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R10 to R10 are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=l in the above formula) is preferable.
[0214] Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain poly-ethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0215] It may be preferable that the (f) oil does not include silicone oil.
[0216] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: • linear or branched, optionally cyclic, lower C5-C19 alkanes. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam^ and squalane.
[0217] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0218] It is preferable that the (f) oil is selected from hydrocarbon oils such as C15-19 alkane, vegetable oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof.
[0219] The amount of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0220] Furthermore, the amount of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0221] The quantity of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0222] The oil(s), if applicable, may form a fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.
[0223] If the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion, the (f) oil, where appropriate, in the composition according to the present invention can form, with the (c) UV filter, if the (c) UV filter is chosen from organic UV filters, fatty phases dispersed in the O / W emulsion. [Optional ingredients]
[0224] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients typically used in cosmetics, in particular, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, derived, for example, from synthetic polymers; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents other than the (f) oil; anionic polymers; cationic polymers; amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers; silicones and silicone derivatives other than the (f) oil; natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than the (f) oil; and the like, within a range which does not alter the effects of the present invention.
[0225] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0226] (Preparation)
[0227] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.
[0228] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. [Shape]
[0229] The form of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and can take various forms such as a solution and an emulsion.
[0230] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an emulsion. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion, which comprises fatty phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases may be flavors- oil pellets in the aqueous phase.
[0231] The O / W architecture or structure, which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore, if the composition according to the present disclosure has the O / W architecture or structure, it can provide a pleasant sensation during use due to the immediate feeling of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide. [Process and Use]
[0232] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as the skin.
[0233] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for treating a keratinous substance such as the skin, mucous membranes and / or the scalp, by being applied to the keratinous substance.
[0234] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating a keratinous substance such as the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.
[0235] The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as care products and makeup products, for the skin of the body and / or face and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp.
[0236] In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as such, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added or combined with any other elements to form a cosmetic product.
[0237] The care product may be a lotion, in particular a milk lotion, a cream and the like. The makeup product may be a foundation, a lipstick, a lip gloss, an eye shadow and the like.
[0238] Another aspect of the present invention relates to a use of:
[0239] (a) at least one amino acid surfactant, preferably at least one surfactant gemini amino acid;
[0240] (b) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester; and
[0241] (d) at least one fatty alcohol,
[0242] in which
[0243] the HLB value of the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) is 6 or more, preferably 7 or more, and more preferably 8 or more, and
[0244] the fatty acid moiety of (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 16 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 14 or fewer, and more preferably 12 or fewer,
[0245] in a composition comprising
[0246] (c) at least one UV filter, preferably at least one organic UV filter,
[0247] in order to make the composition stable and / or to make the composition capable of forming a homogeneous film.
[0248] The above explanations regarding ingredients (a) to (d), as well as optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention may apply to those for the above use according to the present invention. The explanations regarding the preparation and forms of the composition according to the present invention may also apply to those of the composition described in the above use. EXAMPLES
[0249] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples which should not, however, be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1 to 10 and Comparative Examples 1 to 10
[0250] The following compositions according to Examples 1 to 10 and Comparative Examples 1 to 10 shown in Tables 1 and 2 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2 as follows: 1. mixing the ingredients of phase A at 60-65°C to form a uniform mixture of phase A; 2. adding the ingredients of phase B to the uniform mixture of phase A at 60-65°C, then mixing with a homogenizer at 60-65°C to form a uniform mixture of phases A and B; 3. adding the ingredients of phase C to the uniform mixture of phases A and B, then mixing with a homogenizer at 60-65°C to form an aqueous phase; 4. Separately mixing the ingredients of phase D at 75-80°C to form an oil phase; 5. mixing the aqueous and oily phases at 60-65°C with a homogenizer to obtain a uniform mixture; 6. cooling the uniform mixture of phases A, B, C and D to approximately 40°C; and 7. Adding the ingredient of phase E to the uniform mixture of phases A, B, C and D at approximately 40°C, then mixing with a homogenizer.
[0251] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 10 and Comparative Examples 1 to 10 were in the form of an O / W emulsion.
[0252] The numerical values of the amounts of the components shown in Tables 1 and 2 are all based on "% by weight" of active ingredients.
[0253] [Tableauxl] A Ingredients Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Ex. 10 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Glycerin 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Butylene glycol 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Ethylenediamine trisodium di-succinate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Phenoxyethanol 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Hydroxyacetophenone e 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Potassium hydroxide 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 B Xanthan gum 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Carbomer 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Dilauramidoglutamid e lysine sodium 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate (HLB:15) 1 - - - - - - - - - Polyglyceryl-4 caprate (HLB:14) - 1 1 1 1 - - - - 1 Polyglyceryl-6 caprate (HLB:10) - - - - - 1 - - - - Polyglyceryl-2 laurate (HLB:8.5) - - - - - - 1 - - - Polyglyceryl-5 laurate (HLB:11) - - - - - - - 1 - - Polyglyceryl-10 laurate (HLB:16) - - - - - - - - 1 - D Cetyl alcohol - 1 0.5 - - - - - - - Arachidyl alcohol (and) Behenyl alcohol 0.5 - - 1 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Butyl Methoxydibenz- zoylmethane 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphen ol methoxyphenyl triazine 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 - Ethylhexyl triazone 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 - Drometrizole trisiloxane 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 - Ethylhexyl salicylate - 5 Octocrylene - 7 Homosalate - 10 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 - Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 - Diisopropyl sebacate 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 - Shea butter 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 C15-19 alkane 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Poly(C10-30)alkyl acrylate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 E Mica 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Titanium dioxide 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Silica 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Film homogeneity 5 4.5 5 5 5 5 5 4 4 5 Stability Good not Good not Good not Good not Good not Good not Good not Good not Good not Good not
[0254] [Tables2] A Ingredients Ex. Co mp. 1 Ex. Co mp. 2 Ex. Co mp. 3 Ex. Co mp. 4 Ex. Co mp. 5 Ex. Co mp. 6 Ex. Co mp. 7 Ex. Co mp. 8 Ex. Co mp. 9 Ex. Co mp. 10 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Glycerin 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Butylene glycol 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Trisodium ethylenediamine di-succinate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Phenoxyethanol 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Potassium hydroxide 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 B Xanthan gum 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Carbomer 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 c Dilauramidoglutamide lysine sodium 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 - - 0.2 - 0.2 Sodium lauryl sulfate - - - - - 0.2 - - - - Stearic acid - - - - - - 0.2 - - - Sorbitan oleate - 0.5 Polyglyceryl-10 laurate (HLB:16) - - - - 1 1 1 - - - Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate (HLB:12) 1 - Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (HLB:5) - 1 - - - - - - - - Glyceryl isostearate (HLB:4) - - 1 - - - - - - - D Arachidyl alcohol (and) Behenyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 0.5 - - - Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 - Ethylhexyl triazone 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 - Drometrizole trisiloxane 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 - Ethylhexyl salicylate - 5 Octocrylene - 7 Homosalate - 10 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 - Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 - Diisopropyl sebacate 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 - Shea butter 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 C15-19 alkane 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Poly(C10-30)alkyl acrylate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 E Mica 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Titanium dioxide 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Silica 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Film homogeneity 2 2.5 2 1 2 2 2.5 1 1 2 Stability Me- Me- Me- Good Me- Me- Me- Me- Me- Me- diocere diocere diocre ne diocre diocre diocre diocere diocere diocre [Evaluations]
[0255] (Film homogeneity)
[0256] Each composition in the same amount was applied to a polypropylene sheet (0.2 mm PX-P of Sekisui Kagaku Co. Ltd) by an applicator called "Elcometer 4340" (Elcometer KK) with a weight of 1 kg and dried to form a film on the sheet. Then, the applied sheet was exposed to UV (wavelength 365 nm) using a UV lamp (UV black ray B-100AP).
[0257] Film homogeneity on the sheet was evaluated by visual observation. A film with good film homogeneity exhibited a strong and homogeneous black color. On the other hand, a film with poor homogeneity exhibited an inhomogeneous translucent blue color. The photo of each film was taken and rated from 1 to 5. (1 means poor film homogeneity while 5 means high film homogeneity).
[0258] The results of the above evaluation as an average score are shown in Table 1.
[0259] (Stability)
[0260] 3 g of each composition was placed in a 30 ml beaker and stirred with a small stir bar (0.76 g, 1.5 cm long) at a shear rate of 400 rpm at room temperature for 5 minutes. Then, the composition was observed under microscopy (Olympus BX51-P polarizing microscope) to evaluate the stability of the composition according to the following criteria.
[0261] Good: No phase separation or no aggregation
[0262] Poor: Phase separation or aggregation
[0263] The results of the above evaluation are shown in Table 1. Example 11
[0264] The following composition according to Example 11, shown in Table 3, was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 3 as follows:
[0265] (1) mixing the ingredients of phase A at 60-65°C to form a mixture uniform of phase A;
[0266] (2) adding the ingredients of phase B to the uniform mixture of phase A at 60-65°C, then mix with a homogenizer at 60-65°C to form a uniform mixture of phases A and B;
[0267] (3) adding the ingredients of phase C to the uniform mixture of phases A and B, then mixing with a homogenizer at 60-65°C to form an aqueous phase;
[0268] (4) separately mixing ingredients of phase D at 75-80°C to form a oily phase;
[0269] (5) mixing the aqueous and oily phases at 60-65°C with a homogenizer to obtain a uniform mixture;
[0270] (6) cooling the uniform mixture of phases A, B, C and D to about 40°C; and
[0271] (7) adding the ingredient of phase E to the uniform mixture of phases A, B, C and D at about 40°C, then mix with a homogenizer.
[0272] The composition according to Example 11 was in the form of an O / W emulsion.
[0273] The numerical values of the component amounts shown in Table 3 are all based on the "% by weight" of active ingredients.
[0274] [Tables3] Ingredients Ex. 11 A Water qsp 100 Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 Glycerin 3 Butylene glycol 2.5 Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate 0.2 Phenoxyethanol 0.6 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.2 Potassium hydroxide 0.3 B Xanthan gum 0.3 Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer 0.4 Carbomer 0.15 C Dilauramidoglutamide lysine sodium 0.2 Polyglyceryl-4 caprate (HLB: 14) 1 D Arachidyl alcohol (and) Behenyl alcohol 0.5 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 3 Ethylhexyl triazone 4 Drometrizole trisiloxane 2 Alkyl benzoate C12-15 4.5 Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 3 Diisopropyl sebacate 3 Shea butter 1 C15-19 alkane 4 Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.5 C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate 0.5 E Mica 0.5 Titanium dioxide 1.5 Silica 2 In vivo SPF 43 Good Texture [Evaluations]
[0275] (in vivo SPF)
[0276] The in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) of the composition according to Example 11 was determined in accordance with ISO / EN 24444 (2019) Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF). This test was carried out using a UV simulator (UV source: Xenon lamp: Multiport 601-300W sun lamp, v2.5 WG320 filter, Spectrum: 290 to 400 nm).
[0277] The results are shown in Table 3.
[0278] (Texture)
[0279] The texture during application of the composition according to Example 11 to the skin was evaluated by applying the composition to a forearm of a panelist in an amount of 2 mg / cm2 and then assessing the friction force felt between the fingers and the surface of the forearm by the panelist. The texture was evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.
[0280] Good: Soft or non-sticky
[0281] Poor: Not soft or sticky
[0282] The results are shown in Table 3.
[0283] (Summary)
[0284] As shown in Table 1, the compositions according to Examples 1 to 10 are stable and can form a homogeneous film.
[0285] As shown in Table 3, the composition according to Example 11 can provide good UV protection and a good texture of soft or non-sticky feel to the touch during application. The composition according to Example 11 is very similar to the composition according to Example 5. Thus, it is evident that the compositions according to Examples 1 to 10 can also provide good UV protection and a good texture of soft or non-sticky feel to the touch during application.
[0286] Furthermore, Table 2 shows that the absence of any of the ingredients (a) to (d) in the composition according to the present invention adversely affects the stability of the composition and the ability to form a homogeneous film by the composition. It is obvious that the formation of a non-homogeneous film would deteriorate the UV protection.
[0287] For example, Comparative Examples 1-3 demonstrate that compositions including a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester with a fatty acid moiety including more than 16 carbon atoms are not stable and cannot form a film. homogeneous.
[0288] Comparative Example 4 demonstrates that a composition not including a fatty acid polyglyceryl ester cannot form a homogeneous film.
[0289] Comparative Example 5 demonstrates that a composition not including fatty alcohol is not stable and cannot form a homogeneous film.
[0290] Comparative Examples 6 and 7 demonstrate that a composition not including an amino acid surfactant is not stable and cannot form a homogeneous film, even if the composition includes another anionic surfactant (sodium lauryl sulfate or stearic acid with potassium hydroxide) other than the amino acid surfactant.
[0291] Comparative Example 8 demonstrates that a composition including neither a poly-glyceryl fatty acid ester nor a fatty alcohol is not stable and cannot form a homogeneous film.
[0292] Comparative Example 9 demonstrates that a composition including neither poly-glyceryl fatty acid ester, nor amino acid surfactant, nor fatty alcohol is not stable and cannot form a homogeneous film.
[0293] Comparative Example 10 demonstrates that a composition including neither a poly-glyceryl fatty acid ester nor a fatty alcohol is not stable and cannot form a homogeneous film, even if the composition includes another non-ionic surfactant (sorbitan oleate) other than the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.
Claims
Claims
1. A composition comprising: (a) at least one amino acid surfactant; (b) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester; (c) at least one UV filter; and (d) at least one fatty alcohol, wherein the HLB value of the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) is 6 or more, preferably 7 or more, and more preferably 8 or more, and the fatty acid moiety of the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 16 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 14 or fewer, and more preferably 12 or fewer.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (a) amino acid surfactant is selected from compounds represented by formula (A): Y' —CON H ÇH (CHâki Ho ÇH “"Y' (CH2)4 NH CHgfCHg)] — CONH -CH Y* wherein Y' independently denotes a carboxylic acid group or an alkali metal salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group, jl, kl, j2 and k2 denote integers such that (jl, kl, j2, k2) = any one of (2,0,2,0), (2,0,0,2), (0,2,2,0) and (0,2,0,2), and 1 denotes an integer of 6 to 16, preferably 8 to 14, and more preferably 10 to 12.
3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) ten- The amino acid sioactive agent is selected from the group consisting of dilauramido-glutamide sodium lysine, dimyristoylglutamide sodium lysine and distearoylglutamide sodium lysine, and a mixture thereof.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from the group consisting of PG2 laurate, PG4 caprate, PG5 laurate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 caprylate, PG10 laurate, and a mixture thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the (c) UV filter is chosen from organic UV filters, preferably from the group consisting of butyl methoxydimenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate, and their mixture.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (d) fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition further comprises (e) water.
8. A composition according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the composition is in the form of an O / W emulsion.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in which the composition is a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin.
10. Cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous substance.