COMPOSITION COMPRISING LOW MOLECULAR WEIGHT CHITOSAN AND GLYCOLIPIDS

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING LOW MOLECULAR WEIGHT CHITOSAN AND GLYCOLIPIDS The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosans; and (b) at least one glycolipid, wherein the (a) cationic polymer has a molecular weight of less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000 and, more preferably, less than 10,000. The composition according to the present invention can provide a keratinous substance such as skin with a depot comprising glycolipids. Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can include an environmentally friendly ingredient. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING LOW MOLECULAR WEIGHT CHITOSAN AND GLYCERINS COLIPIDS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition including a low molecular weight chitosan and glycolipids, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition and a use related to the composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0003] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0004] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0005] Glycolipids such as rhamnolipids are known to have unique bioactivities, such as anti-inflammatory efficacy, anti-allergic efficacy, antibacterial efficacy, and others.

[0006] WO 2020 / 178048 discloses the use of glycolipids as a deposition aid for certain substances. However, WO 2020 / 178048 says nothing about a low molecular weight chitosan. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0007] There is a need for a composition which can allow deposition, in particular of glycolipids, on a keratinous substance such as the skin.

[0008] Thus, a first objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which can allow deposition, including glycolipids, on a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0009] Furthermore, a second objective of the present invention is to propose a composition which can include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0010] The above objectives of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and even better, a composition cosmetic for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising:

[0011] (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosans and

[0012] (b) at least one glycolipid;

[0013] in which

[0014] the (a) cationic polymer has a molecular weight of less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000 and, even better, less than 10,000.

[0015] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] The (b) glycolipid can be chosen from among the rhamnolipids.

[0017] The amount of (b) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and, better still, from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (c) water.

[0019] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one ten- amphoteric sioactive.

[0020] The quantity of the amphoteric surfactant(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and, even better, from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one amino acid surfactant.

[0022] The quantity of the amino acid surfactant(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and, even better, from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The composition according to the present invention may, in addition, comprise (f) at least one monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof, preferably a monovalent non-polymer carboxylic acid and, better still, a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.

[0024] The quantity of the monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be from 4 to 8, preferably from 4.5 to 7.5 and, even better, from 5 to 7.

[0026] The composition according to the present invention may be a cleaning composition, of preferably a cleansing composition for the skin, and even better, a cleansing composition for the face.

[0027] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising:

[0028] the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention and

[0029] possibly the removal of the keratin substance composition.

[0030] The present invention also relates to the use of (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosans having a molecular weight of less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000 and even better less than 10,000,

[0031] in a composition comprising

[0032] (b) at least one glycolipid;

[0033] in order to provide precipitates including (b) glycolipid upon dilution of the composition with water. Best embodiment of the invention

[0034] After careful research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a composition which can provide a keratinous substance such as skin with a deposit of glycoliides and can include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0035] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0036] (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosans and

[0037] (b) at least one glycolipid;

[0038] in which

[0039] the (a) cationic polymer has a molecular weight of less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000 and, even better, less than 10,000.

[0040] The composition according to the present invention can provide a keratinous substance such as skin with a deposit comprising glycolipids. The deposit can be provided, for example, by precipitates including glycolipids formed in the composition according to the present invention.

[0041] Furthermore, a preferred embodiment of the composition according to the present invention can provide an increased amount of deposit or precipitate to a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0042] Since glycolipids such as rhamnolipids have bioactivities, such as anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, and antibacterial efficacy, the depot including (b) glycolipid provided by the composition according to the present invention is useful for caring for a keratinous substance such as skin. In particular, the composition according to the present invention is useful for treating or caring for acne-prone skin care.

[0043] Furthermore, since glycolipids can act as surfactants, the deposit, including (b) glycolipid, can offer enhanced cleansing effects. Thus, the composition according to the present invention is also useful for cleansing a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0044] Since chitosans can be obtained from natural resources, (a) the cationic polymer is an environmentally friendly ingredient. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can include an environmentally friendly ingredient. Furthermore, (b) the glycolipid can be derived from renewable materials such as biodegradable materials. The composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

[0045] The composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below.

[0046] [Composition]

[0047] (Cationic polymer)

[0048] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one cationic polymer. Only one type of cationic polymer may be used, but two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination.

[0049] A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of (a) the cationic polymer can be between 0.01 meq / g and 20 meq / g, preferably between 0.05 and 15 meq / g and, even better, between 0.1 and 10 meq / g.

[0050] According to the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer is selected from chitosans. Two or more chitosans may be used in combination.

[0051] It is preferable to choose the (a) cationic polymer from among the chitosans.

[0052] The molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer is less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000 and, even better, less than 10,000. In other words, the (a) cationic polymer is a low molecular weight chitosan.

[0053] The molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer may be greater than 1,000, preferably greater than 1,500 and, even better, greater than 2,000.

[0054] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer can be greater than 1,000 and less than 20,000, preferably greater than 1,500 and less than 15,000, and better still, greater than 2,000 and less than 10,000.

[0055] Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means average molecular weight. Molecular weight can be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.

[0056] Chitosan is very rare in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a a particular class of fungi, the zygomycetes.

[0057] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs linked together by a [3 (1,4) type bond.

[0058] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of [3-D-glucosamine] monomers linked by a glycosidic bond (1—>4).

[0059] The "chitosan" according to the present invention refers to any copolymer formed from constituent N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine motifs, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar motifs (deacetylated motifs) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs (acetylated motifs) linked together by [3(1,4)] type bonds and is a Poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) polymer.

[0060] Better still, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.

[0061] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated motifs relative to the total number of motifs; it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or by titration with a strong base.

[0062] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant foods or from biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

[0063] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of an Ascomycete fungus, and in particular Aspergillus niger, and / or a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0064] Chitosan may be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) origin, but preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0065] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say, it is not modified. In particular, it contains no chemical modification.

[0066] One method for preparing chitosan is that described in WO03 / 068824.

[0067] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in the form of powder. It is marketed by Glentham Life Science under the name GU3511.

[0068] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and, even better, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) be less than 0.01% by weight ... tionic is 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and even better 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the amount of the (a) cationic polymer to be from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] (Glycolipid)

[0072] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one glycolipid. Only one type of glycolipid may be used, but two or more different types of glycolipids may be used in combination.

[0073] The term "glycolipid" means a compound formed from a lipid to which one or more sugar compounds are attached.

[0074] The (b) glycolipid can be selected from glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, rhamnolipids and mixtures thereof.

[0075] The (b) glycolipid can preferably be chosen from among the sophorolipids rhamnolipids, and their mixtures, and, better still, from among the rhamnolipids.

[0076] Glucolipids:

[0077] The (b) glycolipid can be selected from the glycolipids, which contain a glucose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (I):

[0078] where:

[0079] - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0080] - p denotes an integer from 1 to 4, and

[0081] - q denotes an integer from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.

[0082] Glycolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MM1.

[0083] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by Mr. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203. The glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using diethyl ether or a di- mixture chloromethane:methanol or chloroform:methanol.

[0084] Sophorolipids:

[0085] The (b) glycolipid may be sophorolipids, which contain a sophorose fraction and may be represented by the general formula (II):

[0086] where:

[0087] - R3 and R4 individually represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,

[0088] - R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, comprising from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group,

[0089] - R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, containing from 1 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0090] provided that the total number of carbon atoms in groups R5 and R6 does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18.

[0091] Sophorolipids can be incorporated into the composition according to the present invention either in the form of an open-chain free acid, where R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxy group OH, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8, as indicated by formula (III): (III)

[0092] where:

[0093] - R3, R4, R5 and R6 are as defined above

[0094] provided that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetyl group.

[0095] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example, Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. The fermentation process It generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.

[0096] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed in AP Tulloch, JFT Spencer and PAJ Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones which can be used in mixtures, or the required form can be isolated.

[0097] It is possible to use as a sophorolipid, for example that marketed under the name Sopholiance S by Givaudan and that marketed under the name BioToLife by BASF.

[0098] Trehalolipids:

[0099] The (b) glycolipid can be selected from trehalolipids, which contain a trehalose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (IV): COOH

[0100] where:

[0101] - R9, R10 and R11 individually represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, containing from 5 to 13 carbon atoms.

[0102] Trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis. Suitable fermentation methods are proposed by Ishigami et al. (1987), J. Jpn. Oil Chem. Soc., 36, 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203, and Passeri et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 204-209.

[0103] Cellobiose lipids:

[0104] The (b) glycolipid can be selected from cellobiose lipids, which contain a cellobiose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (IV):

[0105]

[0106]

[0107]

[0108]

[0109]

[0110] [YES]

[0112]

[0113]

[0114]

[0115] - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation, - R12 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, comprising 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms, - R13 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group; and - R14 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, comprising 4 to 16 carbon atoms. Cellobiose lipids can be produced by fungal cells of the genus Ustilago. Suitable fermentation processes are proposed by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762. Rhamnolipids: The (b) glycolipid can be chosen from among the rhamnolipids. The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids. Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three [3-hydroxylated] fatty acid chains linked together by an ester bond. More specifically, these mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids correspond to the following formula (VI): Or :

[0116]

[0117]

[0118]

[0119]

[0120]

[0121]

[0122]

[0123]

[0124]

[0125] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and - R1 and R2 represent, independently of each other, identical or different hydrocarbon radicals, comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a simply, doubly, or triply unsaturated alkyl radical Thus, when n is equal to 0, formula (VI) protects mono-rhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it protects di-rhamnolipids. The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid. The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which: - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and - R1 and R2 independently represent identical or different hydrocarbon radicals, comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably an alkyl radical simply, doubly or triply unsaturated, as well as their salts, solvates and optical isomers.

[0126] The glycosidic linkage between the two rhamnose fragments can be in alpha or beta configuration and is preferably in alpha configuration.

[0127] In the context of the present invention,

[0128] - the salts of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly their salts carboxylates with an organic or inorganic cation, and in particular with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium.

[0129] - the solvated forms of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly closely those solvated by one or more molecules of water or organic solvents, for example a hydrate or solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of fatty acids being preferably in the form of R enantiomers, and

[0130] - the term "alkyl" radical designates a saturated, linear aliphatic group or branched; for example, a Ci-C2O alkyl group having a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, or eicosyl group

[0131] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0132] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,

[0133] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0134] - Ri and R2, which are identical or different, are chosen from among the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl and radicals of formula -CH2)OCH3 o denoting an integer from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.

[0135] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.

[0136] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.

[0137] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rham-nolipid.

[0138] Better still, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of the following formula (VII): Or :

[0139]

[0140]

[0141]

[0142]

[0143]

[0144]

[0145]

[0146] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1, - n denotes an integer equal to 1, - R' is a radical -(CH2)p-CH3, with p being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, - R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3, with q being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, and also their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers. By way of illustration and without limiting the di-rhamnolipides of formula (VII) which may be suitable for the present invention, particular mention may be made of the compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY, as defined in Table 1 below. The formula di-RL-CXCY is a variant of writing to represent a di-rhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized by two radicals Ri and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.

[0147] [Tables] Compounds Ds-RL-CXCY P « 1 4 4 2 diRL-CKTl 4 ë 3 «i-cwa S 4 4 6 6 5 œ-ciocii 6 § 6 «L-cncio § 6 7 «PL-C12C12 S s 8 «L-C12C14 g 10 9 10 $ 10 «L-CHCU 10 10 11 10 n 12 14 12' 10 13 4^L-Ç16C16 12 3 7

[0148] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also called di-RL-ClOCIO, or one of its salts, solvated and optical isomers.

[0149] Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the present invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0150] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8.

[0151] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 being selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0152] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:

[0153] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1;

[0154] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8; and

[0155] - at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R 1 represents a radical -(CH2)oCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 being chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl; preferably, R1 represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0156] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:

[0157] - at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids,

[0158] - from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1, with respect to the total weight of rhamnolipids, and

[0159] - from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3 to 12% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10 % by weight, of a dirhamnolipide of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R1 represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipides.

[0160] As specified above, rhamnolipids are usually prepared by processes known to those skilled in the art from bacterial producers, such as Pseudomonas.

[0161] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and HP Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. RM Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0162] The rhamnolipide marketed under the name Rheance One by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids) can be used as a rhamnolipide.

[0163] The amount of (b) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and, better still, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] The amount of (b) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, better still, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] The amount of (b) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and, better again, from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] (Water)

[0167] The composition according to the present invention may include (c) water.

[0168] The quantity (c) of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more and, better still, 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] Furthermore, the quantity of water (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 97% by weight or less and, better still, 95% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] The quantity (c) of water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 97% by weight and, even better, from 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] (Amphoteric surfactant)

[0172] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant. Only one type of amphoteric surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.

[0173] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may be, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, and possibly quatemized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (e.g., carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate).

[0174] The (d) amphoteric surfactant may preferably be chosen from the group consisting of betaines and amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives.

[0175] It is preferable that the (d) amphoteric surfactant be chosen from betaine-type surfactants.

[0176] The amphoteric surfactant of the betaine type is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, alkylsulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, alkylphosphobetaines and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular, (C8-C24)alkylbetaines, (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (CrC8)alkylsulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, (Ci-C8)alkylphosphobetaines, and (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkylsulfobetaines. In one embodiment, amphoteric surfactants of the betaine type are selected from (C8-C24)alkylbetaines, (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkylsulfobetaines, sulfobetaines, (Ci-C8)alkylsulfobetaines and phosphobetaines.

[0177] Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include compounds classified in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th edition, 2014, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco / oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearami-dopropylbetaine, cocamidoethylbetaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, oleamido-propylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine and cocosultaine, alone or in mixtures.

[0178] The amphoteric surfactant of the betaine type (betaines) is preferably an al-kylbetaine, an alkylsulfobetaine, and an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular cocobetaine, sulfopropylbetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0179] Among the carboxylated amidoamine derivatives, we can cite the products marketed under the name Miranol, as described in US patents no. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxy-glycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates, with the respective structures:

[0180] R1-CONHCH2CH2-N+(R2)(R3)(CH2COO) M+

[0181] in which:

[0182] Ri designates an alkyl radical of an acid Ri-COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,

[0183] R2 designates a beta-hydroxyethyl group,

[0184] R3 designates a carboxymethyl group,

[0185] M+ denotes a cationic ion derived from alkali metals such as sodium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0186] X denotes an organic or inorganic anionic ion such as halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or M+ and X are not present;

[0187] R1'-CONCH2CH2-N(B)(C) (B2)

[0188] in which:

[0189] R / denotes an alkyl radical of an R / -COOH acid present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as an alkyl radical in C7, C9, Cn or Ci3, an alkyl radical in Cp and its isoform, or an unsaturated radical in Cp,

[0190] B represents -CH2CH2OX',

[0191] C represents -(CH2)Z-Y', with z=l or 2,

[0192] X' denotes a group -CH2-COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ' or a hydrogen atom, and

[0193] Y' denotes a radical -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z', -CH2-CHOH-SO3H or a radical -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z',

[0194] where Z' represents an ion of an alkali or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine or an ammonium ion;

[0195] and

[0196] Ra-NH-CH(Y”)-(CH2)nC(O)-NH-(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (B'2)

[0197] in which:

[0198] Y" denotes -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ", -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z", where Z" denotes a cationic ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine or an ammonium ion;

[0199] Rd and Re denote a Ci-C4 alkyl or Ci-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical;

[0200] Ra designates an alkyl or alkenyl group Cio-C3 of an acid, and

[0201] n and n' independently denote an integer from 1 to 3.

[0202] It is preferable that the (d) amphoteric surfactant of formula B1 and B2 be chosen from (C8-C24)-alkyl amphomonoacetates, (C8-C24)alkyl amphodiacetates, (C8-C24)alkyl amphomonopropionates and (C8-C24)alkyl amphodipropionates.

[0203] These compounds are listed in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Ca-prylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodi-propionate, Disodium Lauroamphopropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid and Cocoamphodi-propionic acid.

[0204] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia Chimie under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

[0205] Among the compounds of formula (B'2), we can mention sodium diethylaminopropyl co-coaspartamide (CTFA) marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0206] It is preferable that the (d) amphoteric surfactant be chosen from among the betaine-type surfactants, better still from among the alkylbetaines, the alkylamidoalkylbetaines, and mixtures thereof, and even better still from among cocobetaine, cocamidopro-pylbetaine, and a mixture thereof.

[0207] The amount of (d) amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and even better 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0208] Furthermore, the quantity of the amphoteric surfactant(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and, even better, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] The quantity of the amphoteric surfactant(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and, even better, from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0210] (amino acid-based surfactant)

[0211] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one amino acid surfactant. Only one type of amino acid surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of amino acid surfactants may be used in combination.

[0212] The (e) amino acid surfactant is different from the (d) amphoteric surfactant.

[0213] (e) An amino acid surfactant is an anionic surfactant based on an amino acid or its derivatives. Typically, (a) an amino acid surfactant is an anionic surfactant comprising at least one amino fraction and at least one carboxylic acid fraction in the form of a carboxylate. The amino acid surfactant may have two or more amino fractions and / or two or more carboxylic acid fractions in the form of carboxylates.

[0214] The (e) amino acid surfactant may preferably be selected from amino acid derivatives. The amino acid derivative may more preferably be selected from salts of amino acids and N-acylated amino acids, for example alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts of amino acids and N-acylated amino acids, such as sodium salts, potassium salts, magnesium salts and calcium salts of amino acids and N-acylated amino acids.

[0215] The acyl group which forms the N-acyl fraction of amino acid derivatives can be an acyl group in C4-C26> preferably an acyl group in C6-C24 and, even better, an acyl group in C8-C22.

[0216] The (e) amino acid surfactant can be represented by the following chemical formula (VIII): O (VIII) .Z. XY

[0217] in which:

[0218] Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0219] - X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

[0220] n is equal to 0 or 1;

[0221] Y is selected from a hydrogen atom, -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)OM, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, and -(CH2)2C(O)OM, and

[0222] M is a salt-forming cation, in which the COO is a counter-anion, such as the sodium ion, potassium ion, and ammonium ion.

[0223] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the formula below- above (VIII):

[0224] Z represents a linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl group in C8 to C[8], in particular a cocoyl group,

[0225] X is a hydrogen atom,

[0226] n equals 0,

[0227] Y is a hydrogen atom or -(CH2)2C(O)OM, and

[0228] M is a salt-forming cation, in which the COO is a counter-anion, such as the ion sodium, potassium ion and ammonium ion.

[0229] The (e) amino acid surfactant may be derived from an amino acid carboxylate salt in which the amine group located on the α-carbon or the [3-carbon of an amino acid salt is acylated with a fatty acid derivative.

[0230] The carboxylate salts of these amino acids can be formed by conventional means such as the neutralization of the respective amino acid with a base. The amine group located on the α-carbon or the [3-carbon of the neutralized amino acid is acylated with a fatty acid halide (acyl halide) in the presence of a base via a well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction giving the amide, thus forming the desired surfactant reaction product, namely: the (β) amino acid surfactant.

[0231] Suitable acyl halides for the acylation of amino acid carboxylate salts include acyl chlorides, bromides, fluorides, and iodides. Acyl halides can be prepared by reacting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acid with a thionyl halide (bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide). Representative acyl halides include, but are not limited to, acyl chlorides selected from decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride), cocoyl chloride (coconut oil-derived fatty acid chlorides), tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride), hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride), octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride), 9-octadecanoyl chloride (oleoyl chloride), eicosanoyl chloride (arachidoyl chloride), docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride), and any mixture thereof.Other acyl halides include the bromides, fluorides, and iodides of the fatty acids mentioned above. A method for preparing acyl halides, as well as another method for acylating amino acids, is presented in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2008 / 0200704, published on August 21, 2008.

[0232] The (e) amino acid surfactant may even more preferably be chosen from the group consisting of glutamates, N-acylated glutamates, aspartates, N-acylated aspartates and their salts.

[0233] Examples of (e) amino acid surfactants include, but are not limited to:

[0234] - sarcosinates, such as N-acyl sarcosinates (salts), for example, lauroyl sar- sodium cosinate, marketed under the name Nikkol SarcosinateTM LN by Nikko Chemicals or marketed under the name PureactTM LSR by Innospec Performance Chemicals Europe Limited; sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, marketed under the name Nikkol SarcosinateTM MN by Nikko Chemicals and sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, marketed under the name Nikkol SarcosinateTM PN by Nikko Chemicals;

[0235] - alaninates, such as N-acyl alaninates (salts), for example N- sodium lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, marketed under the name Sodium Nikkol AlaninateTM LN 30 by Nikko Chemicals or marketed under the name Alanone® ALE by Kawaken; sodium cocoyl alaninates, marketed under the name Amilite® ACS-12 by Ajinomoto and triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, marketed under the name Alanone® ALTA by Kawaken;

[0236] - glutamates, such as N-acyl glutamates (salts), for example, stearoyl sodium glutamate, marketed under the name Eumulgin® SR by BASF Japan; sodium lauroyl glutamate, marketed under the name Plantapon® Amino SLG-P by BASF Japan; triethanolamine monocoyl glutamate, marketed under the name Amisoft® CT-12 by Ajinomoto; triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, marketed under the name Amisoft® LT-12 by Ajinomoto; disodium stearoyl glutamate, marketed under the name Amisoft® HS-21P by Ajinomoto; sodium cocoyl glutamate, marketed under the name Plantapon® Amino SF-N by BASF Japan; disodium cocoyl glutamate, marketed under the name Plantapon® Amino SCG-L by BASF Japan; and disodium / sodium cocoyl glutamate, marketed under the name Amisoft® CS-22 by Ajinomoto;

[0237] - aspartates, such as N-acyl aspartates (salts), for example, aspartate of N-lauroyl disodium, marketed as AminoFoamer® FLMS-P1 by Asahi Kasei; and a mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate, marketed as AminoFoamer® FCMT-L by Asahi Kasei; and

[0238] - glycinates, such as N-acyl glycinates (salts), for example N-cocoyl sodium glycinate, marketed under the name Amilite® GCS-12K; and potassium N-cocoyl glycinate, marketed under the name Amilite® GCK-12K by Ajinomoto.

[0239] It is preferable that the (e) amino acid surfactant be chosen from among the glutamates, preferably N-acyl glutamates, and even better sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate and a mixture of these.

[0240] The quantity of the amino acid surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and even better 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0241] The quantity of the amino acid surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and even better 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0242] The quantity of the amino acid surfactant(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and, even better, from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0243] (Non-polymer monovalent acid or salt thereof)

[0244] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof. Thus, a single type of monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof or two or more types of monovalent non-polymer acids or salts thereof may be used in combination.

[0245] The (f) monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof is different from the (e) amino acid surfactant.

[0246] The term "non-polymer" here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Therefore, a non-polymer acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers such as acrylic polyacids.

[0247] The term "salt" here refers to a salt formed by the addition of one or more suitable bases to the monovalent nonpolymeric acid, which can be obtained from a reaction of the monovalent nonpolymeric acid with the base or bases according to processes known to those skilled in the art. Examples of salts include metal salts, for example, alkali metal salts such as Na and K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.

[0248] It is preferable that the molecular weight (f) of the monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof be less than 1,000, preferably 500 or less and, even better, 200 or less.

[0249] The monovalent nonpolymeric acid (f) or a salt thereof may be included in the aqueous phase formed by (c) water, if present. The monovalent nonpolymeric acid (f) or a salt thereof may promote the dissolution of the (a) cationic polymer in (c) water, if present.

[0250] The monovalent nonpolymeric acid (f) has a single acid group which may be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group or a mixture thereof.

[0251] The monovalent non-polymeric acid (f) or a salt thereof may be selected from monovalent organic or inorganic acids and their salts.

[0252] It is preferable that the monovalent non-polymeric acid (f) be a monovalent organic acid and, even better, a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid.

[0253] The monovalent non-polymer carboxylic acid may be selected from among the hydroxy acids, and preferably from alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids. Examples of alpha-hydroxy acids include lactic acid and glycolic acid. Examples of beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid.

[0254] Therefore, the monovalent non-polymeric acid can be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid and, even better, a salicylic acid.

[0255] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and even better 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0256] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and even better 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0257] The quantity of the (f) monovalent non-polymer acid(s) or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0258] (Optional ingredient)

[0259] The composition according to the present invention may include, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients generally used in cosmetic products, in particular, surfactants / emulsifiers other than (b) glycolipid, (d) amphoteric surfactant, and (e) amino acid surfactants, such as taurates (e.g., sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl taurate, and sodium lauroyl taurate); hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners derived, for example, from synthetic thickeners; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents such as ethanol; polyols such as glycerin, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, and sorbitol; anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers such as beta-glucan; silicones and silicone derivatives;natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than (a) cationic polymer; waxes; preservatives such as caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol; antioxidants such as tocopherol; salts such as NaCl; and the like, within a range that does not affect; not the effects of the present invention.

[0260] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and better still 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0261] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil. Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0262] However, the quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be limited. Therefore, the quantity of oil in the composition according to the present invention is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be particularly preferable for the composition according to the present invention not to include any oil.

[0263] The quantity of synthetic thickeners in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be particularly preferable for the composition according to the present invention not to include any synthetic thickener.

[0264] The amount of anionic or amphoteric polymer in the composition according to the present invention may include less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and even better less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention not include any anionic or amphoteric polymer.

[0265] [pH]

[0266] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be from 4 to 8, preferably from 4.5 to 7.5 and, even better, from 5 to 7.

[0267] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be corrected by adding (f) a monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, or at least one alkali and / or at least one acid other than (f) the non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can also be corrected by adding at least one buffering agent.

[0268] [Preparation]

[0269] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0270] The process and means for mixing the essential and optional ingredients listed below. The above are not limited. Any conventional method and means may be used to mix the essential and optional ingredients above in order to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0271] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and homogenizer. Furthermore, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process for preparing the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

[0272] [Form]

[0273] The composition according to the present invention may be in any form.

[0274] For example, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a solution or a gel.

[0275] In another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a solution. In this embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be packaged with an automatic foam pump that allows consumers to use the composition as foam.

[0276] The composition according to the present invention, before being diluted, may have a transparent or translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance.

[0277] Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (for example, with the HACH 2100Q portable turbidimeter). The turbidity of the composition according to the present invention can be less than 400 NTU (translucent), preferably less than 350 NTU, and even better less than 300 NTU (transparent).

[0278] [Cosmetic application]

[0279] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance. Hereinafter, keratinous substance means a material containing keratin as its principal constituent, and examples thereof include skin, scalp, lips, hair, and the like. Therefore, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process on the keratinous substance, in particular the skin.

[0280] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition for the skin, preferably a cosmetic skin care composition and, even better, a facial care composition.

[0281] In particular, the composition according to the present invention is useful for cleaning. Thus, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cleansing composition, better still a skin-cleansing composition, and even Even better, a facial cleansing formula.

[0282] [Cosmetic process and use]

[0283] The present invention also relates to: - a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance; and optionally removing the composition from the keratinous substance and

[0284] or - a use of the composition according to the present invention for the care or cleansing of a keratinous material such as skin.

[0285] By cosmetic process, we mean here a non-therapeutic cosmetic process, such as a cosmetic process for the care or cleansing of the surface of a keratinous material such as the skin

[0286] The removal step in the cosmetic process according to the present invention can be carried out, for example, by rinsing the composition according to the present invention with water from a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0287] If the removal step is not carried out, the cosmetic process according to the present invention may be useful for the care of a keratinous substance such as skin, because (b) glycolipids can confer on the keratinous substance anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic or antibacterial properties, which would be useful, in particular, for the care of acne-prone or sensitive skin.

[0288] If the removal step is carried out, the cosmetic process according to the present invention may be useful for cleaning a keratinous substance such as skin, since (b) glycolipids can function as a surfactant.

[0289] If the composition according to the present invention is diluted with water, the composition according to the present invention may cause precipitation.

[0290] Thus, before or after the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to a keratinous substance such as skin, if the keratinous substance is wetted with water, the composition according to the present invention may cause precipitates on the keratinous substance.

[0291] On the other hand, before the step of removing the composition according to the present invention from a keratinous substance such as skin, if the keratinous substance is wet with water, the composition according to the present invention may also cause precipitation on the keratinous substance.

[0292] Therefore, it is preferable that a keratinous substance such as skin be wetted with water before or after the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance, or before removing the composition according to the present invention from the keratinous substance.

[0293] The precipitates include (b) glycolipids, and consequently they can provide to a keratinous substance such as skin various benefits such as anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic or antibacterial properties, which would be useful for, in particular, acne-prone and sensitive skin.

[0294] In addition, the precipitates include (b) glycolipids which can function as surfactants. Therefore, the precipitates can be used effectively to cleanse a keratinous substance such as skin, by further rinsing the precipitates from the keratinous substance with water, which would be preferable for cleansing the keratinous substance, in particular for removing makeup from the keratinous substance such as skin.

[0295] The present invention may also relate to the use of (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosans having a molecular weight of less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000 and better still less than 10,000,

[0296] in a composition comprising

[0297] (b) at least one glycolipid;

[0298] in order to provide precipitates including (b) glycolipid upon dilution of the composition with water.

[0299] The above explanations concerning (a) cationic polymer, (b) glycolipid and (c) water for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those of the above use. EXAMPLES

[0300] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1-7 and comparative examples 1-5

[0301] [Preparations]

[0302] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients in Table 1 are all based on a "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0303] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. Com P- 1 Ex. Com P-2 Ex. Com p. 3 Ex. Com p.4 Ex. Com p. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Water qspl 00 qspl 00 qspl 00 qspl 00 qspl 00 qspl 00 qspl 00 qspl 00 qspl 00 qspl 00 qspl 00 qspl 00 Chitosan (MW< 3000) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 - - 0.6 3 Chitosan (MW< 25,000) - - - - - - - - 1 - - - Chitosan (MW< 115,000) - - - - - - - - - 1 - - Lactic acid 1.4 - 0.9 0.9 0.9 1.35 - 1.35 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Glycolipids 1.5 1.5 1.5 3 3 - - - 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.2 2.3 2.3 1.2 2.3 1.14 2.28 2.28 2.3 2.3 - 5.2 Disodium / Sodium Cocoyl Glutamide 5.3 3.6 4.8 3.8 6.75 5.02 5 3.6 3.6 3.2 4.5 PH 5.5 5.3 5.5 5.6 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 Dilution Test Good Good Good Good Good Bad Bad Bad Very bad Very bad Good Very good

[0304] [Evaluation]

[0305] (Dilution test)

[0306] Each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 7 and comparative examples 1 to 5 was diluted with water to have 5 times the volume at room temperature (25 °C).

[0307] The dilution test simulates the use of the composition according to the present invention under humid conditions such as those of a bathroom.

[0308] Precipitation in each composition was assessed visually according to the following criteria

[0309] Very good: Significant precipitation was observed after dilution

[0310] Good: Precipitation was observed after dilution

[0311] Poor: No precipitation was observed after dilution

[0312] Very poor: Precipitation was observed before dilution

[0313] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0314] The more precipitation there is, the more the composition according to the present invention can offer effects based on precipitation.

[0315] (Summary)

[0316] Examples 1 to 6 show that the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 including a low molecular weight chitosan and glycolipids were able to provide precipitates when diluted with water.

[0317] Example 7 shows that the compositions according to Example 7 were able to provide a lot of precipitate when diluted with water, due to the use of a relatively large amount of a low molecular weight chitosan.

[0318] Comparative examples 1-3 show that the compositions according to comparative examples 1-3, including the absence of glycolipids, could not provide a precipitate although they include a low molecular weight chitosan.

[0319] Comparative examples 4 and 5 show that the compositions according to comparative examples 4 and 6, including chitosan with a molecular weight of 20,000 or more, caused precipitation before being diluted with water. Precipitates before dilution with water are not preferable due to the non-uniformity or non-homogeneity of the compositions, for example, during storage.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic composition, and more preferably cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising (a) at least one cationic polymer chosen from chitosans and (b) at least one glycolipid; wherein the (a) cationic polymer has a molecular weight of less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000 and more preferably less than 10,000.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the (b) glycolipid is chosen from rhamnolipids.

4. A composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one amino acid surfactant

6. A composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid and, more preferably, a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the pH of the composition is from 4 to 8, preferably from 4.5 to 7.5, and more preferably from 5 to 7.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, which is a cleansing composition, preferably a skin cleansing composition and, more preferably, a facial cleansing composition.

9. Cosmetic process for a keratin substance such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratin substance the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 and optionally removing the composition from the keratin substance.

10. The use of (a) at least one cationic polymer chosen from chitosans having a molecular weight of less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000 and, more preferably, less than 10,000, in a composition comprising (b) at least one glycolipid; to provide precipitates including the (b) glycolipid upon dilution of the composition with water.