COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CATIC POLYMER AND AT LEAST TWO FATTY ACIDS

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CATIONIC POLYMER AND AT LEAST TWO FATTY ACIDS The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof; (c) water; and (d) at least two fatty acids, wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7.0, preferably 6.5 or less, more preferably 6.0 or less, and even more preferably 5.5 or less. The composition according to the present invention is stable and may include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CATIONIC POLYMER AND AT LEAST TWO FATTY ACIDS

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one cationic polymer and at least two fatty acids, and a cosmetic process using the composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0003] It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0004] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0005] A polyionic complex, formed of an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer, is already known.

[0006] For example, WO 2021 / 125069 discloses a composition that is useful for cosmetic treatments and comprises at least one polyionic complex particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer, and at least one non-polymer acid having two or more pKa values. WO 2021 / 125069 also indicates that the composition shown therein may include oil and may be in the form of an emulsion. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0007] A first objective of the present invention is to propose a stable composition which may comprise at least one cationic polymer and at least two fatty acids.

[0008] Furthermore, a second objective of the present invention is to propose a composition which can include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0009] The above objectives of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising a. at least one cationic polymer; b. at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; c. water; and d. at least two fatty acids,

[0010] in which

[0011] the pH of the composition is less than 7.0, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, more preferably less than or equal to 6.0, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5.5.

[0012] The (a) cationic polymer may have a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

[0013] The (a) cationic polymer can be chosen from the group consisting of cyclo alkyldiallylamine polymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)diallydialkylammonium polychloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines and chitosans, (co)cationic amino acids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers and salts thereof.

[0014] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The (b) monovalent non-polymer acid may be a monovalent non-polymer organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymer carboxylic acid and, more preferably, a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.

[0016] The amount of (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or one or more thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The quantity of (c) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 20% to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight and more preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The (d) fatty acids may be selected from linoleic acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and a mixture thereof, and preferably linoleic acid, oleic acid and a mixture thereof.

[0019] The quantity of (d) fatty acids in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one organic alkali agent.

[0021] The (e) organic alkali agent may be chosen from alkanolamines and acids basic amino acids, preferably from the group consisting of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, lysine, histidine, arginine and a mixture thereof, and more preferably from the group consisting of triethanolamine, arginine and a mixture thereof.

[0022] The quantity of the organic alkali agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one oil.

[0024] The quantity of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising:

[0026] the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0027] drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance. Best embodiment of the invention

[0028] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a stable composition which includes at least one cationic polymer and at least two fatty acids, and can include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0029] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0030] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0031] (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

[0032] (c) water; and

[0033] (d) at least two fatty acids,

[0034] in which

[0035] the pH of the composition is less than 7.0, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, more preferably less than or equal to 6.0, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5.5.

[0036] The composition according to the present invention is stable and may include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0037] The composition according to the present invention is stable such that the composition can maintain a uniform appearance for a long time, without forming large particles in the composition.

[0038] The composition according to the present invention can provide immediate mattifying effects. These mattifying effects can reduce the shine of a keratinous substance such as skin due, for example, to sebum.

[0039] Even if the composition according to the present invention includes oil, the composition according to the present invention can provide an immediate matte effect. Moreover, the immediate matte effect is independent of the amount of oil. Thus, for example, even if the amount of oil increases, the composition according to the present invention can provide immediate matte effects.

[0040] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is useful for cosmetic applications.

[0041] If (a) at least one cationic polymer is obtained from natural resources, (a) the cationic polymer may be an environmentally friendly ingredient. For example, (a) the cationic polymer may be selected from among chitosans, which are environmentally friendly. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention may include an environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0042] Furthermore, ingredients (b), (c), and (d) can be derived from renewable materials such as plants and / or biodegradable materials. The composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

[0043] The composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below. [Composition]

[0044] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0045] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0046] (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

[0047] (c) water; and

[0048] (d) at least two fatty acids,

[0049] in which

[0050] the pH of the composition is less than 7.0, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, more preferably less than or equal to 6.0, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5.5.

[0051] In the composition according to the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer and the (d) fatty acids can form at least one complex.

[0052] A positively chargeable and / or positively charged fraction such as an amino (-NH2) or ammonium (-NH3+) group of the (a) cationic polymer can interact ionically with the carboxylic acid (-COOH) or carboxylate (-COO-) group of the (d) fatty acids to form the complex. The complex includes at least one hyaluronic fraction drophobic derived from the fat fraction of (d) fatty acids. Therefore, the (a) cationic polymer can be hydrophobicized by (d) fatty acids by forming the complex.

[0053] (Cationic polymer)

[0054] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one cationic polymer. Only one type of cationic polymer may be used, but two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination.

[0055] A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of (a) the cationic polymer can be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g and, more preferably, from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0056] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the (a) cationic polymer be 1000 or more, preferably 2000 or more, more preferably 3000 or more, and even more preferably 4000 or more.

[0057] It may be particularly preferable for the (a) cationic polymer to have a molecular weight greater than 20,000.

[0058] Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means an average molecular weight.

[0059] The (a) cationic polymer may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged fraction selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group and a pyridyl group. The term "amino group" (principal) here refers to a -NH2 group.

[0060] The (a) cationic polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is intended to refer to both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0061] The (a) cationic polymer may be chosen from natural and synthetic cationic polymers, and preferably from natural cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers are as follows.

[0062] (1) Homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic esters and amides or me- thacryliques and including at least one motif chosen from the motifs of the following formulas: Rs Rs Rs CH?......Ç............CHî......C...............CH?......O........... O“Ç O“O to HR § ix" i AAA ,H, ^4-......H'.......% RX! FC Ri< Rs

[0063]

[0064]

[0065]

[0066]

[0067]

[0068]

[0069] -~GHï—G--- G—Ç HH i A ç?,,______________Ps Jx: HS in which: Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl groups comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example, methyl and ethyl groups; R3, which may be the same or different, is chosen from hydrogen and CH3; The symbols A, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched alkyl groups comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example 2 to 3 carbon atoms, and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and benzyl groups, and in at least one embodiment, alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methosulfate anions and halides, for example chloride and bromide. Family copolymers (1) may also include at least one motif derived from comonomers which may be selected from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by lower C1-C4 alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0070] Examples of copolymers of the (l) family include, but are not limited to:

[0071] acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide,

[0072] acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers described, for example, in European patent application no. 0 080 976,

[0073] acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate copolymers, quaternized or non-quaternized dialkyla-minoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers described, for example, in French patents no. 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,

[0074] dimethylaminoethyl / vinylca-prolactam / vinylpyrrolidone methacrylate terpolymers,

[0075] vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers and

[0076] crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing an olefinic unsaturation, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.

[0077] (2) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose ether derivatives comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups described, for example, in French patent no. 1,492,597, such as the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

[0078] It is preferable that the cationic cellulose polymer has at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a quaternary trialkylammonium group and more preferably, a quaternary trimethylammonium group.

[0079] The quaternary ammonium group may be present in a quaternary ammonium group which can be represented by the following chemical formula (I): 0H Rs

[0080] in which

[0081] each of Ri and R2 designates an alkyl group in Ci.3, preferably a group methyl or ethyl, and more preferably a methyl group,

[0082] R3 designates an alkyl group at C, 24, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably a methyl group,

[0083] X designates a union, preferably a halide, and more preferably a chloride,

[0084] n denotes an integer from 0 to 30, preferably from 0 to 10 and more preferably 0, and

[0085] R4 designates an alkylene group at C1.4, preferably an ethylene or propylene group.

[0086] The leftmost ether bond (-O-) in the chemical formula (I) above can attach to the sugar ring of the polysaccharide.

[0087] It is preferable that the group containing the quaternary ammonium group be -O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-N+(CH3)3.

[0088] (3) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and described, for example, in US Patent No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxy-alkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- and hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted, for example, with a salt selected from the salts of methacryloyl-ethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium and dimethyldiallylammonium.

[0089] Commercial products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, products marketed under the names "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by the company National Starch.

[0090] (4) Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides described in US patents Numbers 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic tri-kylammonium groups, cationic hyaluronic acid, and hydroxypropyltrimonium dextran chloride. Guar gums modified with a salt, for example, 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride), may also be used.

[0091] These products are sold, for example, under the trade names JAGUAR® C13 S, JAGUAR® C15, JAGUAR® C17 and JAGUAR® C162 by the company MEYHALL.

[0092] (5) Polymers comprising piperazinyl motifs and alkylene or hy- groups Divalent droxyalkylene polymers comprising straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with at least one entity selected from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, aromatic rings, and heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.

[0093] (6) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared, for example, by polycon densification of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides being optionally crosslinked with an entity selected from among the epihalohydrins; diepoxides; dianhydrides; unsaturated dianhydrides; bisunsaturated derivatives; bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums; bishaloacyidiamines; bisalkyl halides; oligomers resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound that is reactive with an entity selected from among the bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums, bishaloacyl-diamines, bisalkyl halides; epihalohydrins; diepoxides and bisunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyamino amide; These polyaminoamides are optionally alkylated or, if they include at least one tertiary amine function, they can be quaternized. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.

[0094] (7) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyamines of poly- Alkylene with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents, for example, adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, and propyl groups, and the alkylene group comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as an ethylene group. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent No. 1,583,363. In at least one embodiment, these derivatives may be selected from adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine polymers.

[0095] (8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated dicarboxylic aliphatic acids comprising 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid may range from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio between the epichlorohydrin and the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. These polymers are described, for example, in US patent Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

[0096] (9) Alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallyl- cyclopolymers ammonium, such as homopolymers and copolymers comprising, as the main constituent of the chain, at least one motif from among the motifs of formulas (la) and (Ib):

[0097] a)

[0098] Ib) JCH2)k .............(CHs)t.......CW XÇ <M..........QHs........

[0099] in which:

[0100] k and t, which can be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1;

[0101] Rn is chosen from among the hydrogen and methyl groups;

[0102] Rio and Rn, which may be identical or different, are selected from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups in which the alkyl group comprises, for example, from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and lower (Ci-C4)alkylamido groups, or R10 and Rn may form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl and morpholinyl; and

[0103] Y' is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate and phosphate. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent no. 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406.

[0104] In one embodiment, Rio and Rn, which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0105] Among these polymers, we can mention, but not be limited to, (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride such as the dimethylidiethylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by the company CALGON (and its low weight average molecular mass homologues) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT® 550".

[0106] Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (II): Ria Rw (II) • hf A; N* ■ | X | X Ru Ru

[0107] in which:

[0108] Rn, Ru, Rb, and Ri6, which may be identical or different, are selected from aliphatic, alicyclic, and arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic groups; or Rn, R14, Ri5, and Ri6, together or separately, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles alternatively comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen; or R13, R14, R15, and R16, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl groups substituted by at least one group selected from alkyl groups, ester groups, acyl groups, amide groups, -CO-O-Rp-E groups, and -CO-NH-Rp-E groups, where R17 is an alkylene group and E is a quaternary ammonium group. ;

[0109] Ai and Bb, which may be identical or different, are selected from polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may include, bonded or intercalated in the main chain, at least one entity selected from aromatic rings, oxygen, sulfur, sulfoxide groups, sulfone groups, disulfide groups, amino groups, alkylamino groups, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium groups, ureido groups, amide groups and ester groups, and

[0110] X designates an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;

[0111] Ai, Rn and Rb can form, in conjugation with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

[0112] If Ai is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, Bi can be chosen from:

[0113] -(CH2)n-CO-E'-OC-(CH2)n-

[0114] in which E' is chosen from:

[0115] a) glycolic residues of formula -OZO-, in which Z is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and groups of the following formulas:

[0116] -(CH2-CH2-O)X-CH2-CH2-

[0117] -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-

[0118] in which x and y, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers from 1 to 4, which represent a defined and unique degree of polymerization, and numbers from 1 to 4, which represent an average degree of polymerization;

[0119] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as piperazine derivatives;

[0120] c) bis-primary diamine residues of formula -NH-Y-NH-, wherein Y is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and the divalent group -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-. and

[0121] d) ureylene groups of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0122] In at least one embodiment, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

[0123] Polymers of this type are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,320,330; 2,270,846; 2,316,271; 2,336,434; and 2,413,907 and in US patents Nos. 2,273,780; 2,375,853; 2,388,614; 2,454,547; 3,206,462; 2,261,002; 2,271,378; 3,874,870; 4,001,432; 3,929,990; 3,966,904; 4,005,193; 4,025,617; 4,025,627; 4,025,653; 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.

[0124] Non-limiting examples of these polymers include those comprising at least one repeating motif of formula (III):

[0125] in which

[0126] Rn, Ru, Rb and R[6, which may be identical or different, are selected from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p, which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 20, and X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid. 1. Polyquater ammonium polymers comprising formula (IV) motifs:

[0127] (IV)

[0128] in which:

[0129] Ri8, R19, R2o and R2i, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl, -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)POH groups, wherein p is chosen from integers from 0 to 6, provided that R[8, Ri9, R20 and R2[ are not simultaneously hydrogen,

[0130] r and s, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers from 1 to 6,

[0131] q is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 34,

[0132] X is an anion, such as a halide, and

[0133] A is chosen from dihalide radicals and -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0134] These compounds are described, for example, in European patent application No. 0 122 324. 1. Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

[0135] Other examples of suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising motifs selected from vinylpyridine and vinylpyridinium motifs, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

[0136] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer is selected from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymers, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers and copolymers sold under the names MERQUAT® 100, MERQUAT® 550, and MERQUAT® S by CALGON, guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt, and quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole. 1. Polyamines

[0137] As a (a) cationic polymer, it is also possible to use (co)polyamines, which may be homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in the polymer backbone or as a pendant group, as appropriate, of the (co)polyamines.

[0138] Examples of (co)polyamines include chitosans, (co)polyallylamines, (co)polyvinylamines, (co)polyanilines, (co)polyvinylimidazoles, (co)dimethylaminoethylene methacrylates, (co)polyvinylpyridines such as (co)poly-1-methyl-2-vinylpyridines, (co)polyimines such as (co)polyethyleneimines, (co)polypyridines such as (co)quaternary (co)polypyridines, (co)polybiguanides such that (co)polyaminopropyl biguanides, (co)polylysines, (co)polyornithines, (co)poly arginines, (co)polyhistidines, aminodextrans, aminocelluloses, amino(co)polyvinylacetals and their salts.

[0139] As with (co)polyamines, it may be preferable to use (co)polylysines. Polylysine is well known. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine can be e-Poly-L-lysine, typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water, propylene glycol, and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly-D-lysine and poly-L-lysine. Poly-L-lysine is preferable. Polylysine can be in the form of a salt and / or a solution. 1. Cationic polyamino acids

[0140] As (a) a cationic polymer, it may be possible to use cationic polyamino acids, which may be homopolymers or cationic copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups and carboxyl groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in a polymer backbone or a pendant group, as appropriate, of the cationic polyamino acids. The carboxyl group may be present in a pendant group, as appropriate, of the cationic polyamino acids.

[0141] Examples of cationic polyamino acids include cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydroxypropyl stear-dimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, hydroxypropyl stear-dimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, and the like.

[0142] The following descriptions relate to preferred embodiments of the cationic polymer.

[0143] It is preferable that the (a) cationic polymer be chosen from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)diallyldialkyl ammonium polychloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines, (co)polyamino acids cationic such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers and salts thereof.

[0144] It is more preferable that the (a) cationic polymer be chosen from among the chitosans.

[0145] It is preferable that the chitosan have a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000, preferably greater than 50,000 and, more preferably, greater than 80,000. In In other words, the (a) cationic polymer is a high molecular weight chitosan.

[0146] The molecular weight (Da) of the chitosan may be less than 1,000,000, preferably less than 500,000 and, more preferably, less than 300,000.

[0147] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of chitosan can be greater than 20,000 and less than 1,000,000, preferably greater than 50,000 and less than 500,000, and more preferably greater than 80,000 and less than 300,000.

[0148] Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means average molecular weight. Molecular weight can be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.

[0149] Chitosan is very rare in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, the zygomycetes.

[0150] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs linked together by a [3(1,4) type bond.

[0151] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of [3-D-glucosamine] monomers linked by a glycosidic bond (1—>4).

[0152] The "chitosan" according to the present invention refers to any copolymer formed from constituent N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine motifs, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar motifs (deacetylated motifs) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs (acetylated motifs) linked together by [3(1,4)] type bonds and is a Poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) polymer.

[0153] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.

[0154] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated motifs relative to the total number of motifs; it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or by titration with a strong base.

[0155] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant foods or from biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

[0156] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of an Ascomycete-type fungus, and in particular Aspergillus niger and / or from a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0157] Chitosan may be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) origin, but preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0158] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say, it is not modified. In particular, it contains no chemical modification.

[0159] One method for preparing chitosan is that described in WO03 / 068824.

[0160] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in powder form. It is marketed by Kitozyme under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime, for example Kiosmetine-CSH and Kiosmetine P.

[0161] It is preferable that (a) be chosen from among the chitosans, and more preferably chitosans with a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

[0162] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] The quantity of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] (Non-polymer monovalent acid or salt thereof)

[0166] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof. A single type of monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof or a combination of different types of monovalent non-polymer acids or salts thereof may be used.

[0167] The term "non-polymer" here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Therefore, a non-polymer acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers such as acrylic polyacids.

[0168] The term “salt” here refers to a salt formed by the addition of one or more suitable bases to the monovalent nonpolymeric acid, which can be obtained from a reaction of the monovalent nonpolymeric acid with the base or bases according to processes known to those skilled in the art. Examples of salts include metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K, and alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca and ammonium salts.

[0169] Preferably the molecular weight of (b) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof is less than 1,000, preferably 500 or less, and more preferably 200 or less.

[0170] The (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid has a single acid group which may be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group and a mixture thereof.

[0171] The (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be selected from monovalent organic or inorganic acids and salts thereof.

[0172] It is preferable that the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid be a monovalent organic acid, and more preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid.

[0173] The monovalent non-polymer carboxylic acid may be chosen from among the hydroxyl acids, and preferably from alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids. Examples of alpha-hydroxy acids include lactic acid and glycolic acid. Examples of beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid.

[0174] The monovalent non-polymer acid may be a monovalent non-polymer organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymer carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxyl such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.

[0175] The amount of the (b) monovalent non-polymer acid(s) or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0176] The amount of the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0177] The quantity of the (b) monovalent non-polymer acid(s) or of one or more salts thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0178] (Water)

[0179] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) water.

[0180] The quantity of (c) water may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the weight total composition.

[0181] Furthermore, the quantity of (c) water may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] The quantity of (c) water may be from 20% to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight and more preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] (Fatty Acid)

[0184] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least two fatty acids. Three or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0185] The (d) fatty acids are different from the (b) monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof.

[0186] The (d) fatty acids can hydrophobicize the (a) cationic polymer.

[0187] The term “fatty acid” here refers to a carboxylic acid with a long aliphatic carbon chain.

[0188] Each of the (d) fatty acids comprises at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms and, more preferably, at least 8 carbon atoms. Each of the (d) fatty acids may comprise up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms and, more preferably, up to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, each of the (d) fatty acids is selected from a C4-C26 fatty acid, more preferably a C6-C24 fatty acid, and even more preferably a C8-C22 fatty acid.

[0189] Each of the (d) fatty acids can be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus, the (d) fatty acid can be selected from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched in C4-C26, preferably in C6-C24, and more preferably in C8-C22.

[0190] Monounsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, or polyunsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, may be used as unsaturated fatty acids. A carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond may be specified as the unsaturated fraction of unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched.

[0191] Examples of saturated fatty acids include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (Ci0), lauric acid (Ci2), myristic acid (CM), pentadecanoic acid (Ci5), palmitic acid (Ci6), heptadecanoic acid (Ci7), stearic acid (Ci8), isostearic acid (Ci8), nonadecanoic acid (Ci9), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0192] Examples of unsaturated fatty acids include myristoleic acid (Ci4), palmitoleic acid (Ci6), oleic acid (Ci8), linoleic acid (Ci8), li- nolenic acid (C[8), elaidic acid (C[8), arachidonic acid (C20), eicosenoic acid (C20), erucic acid (C22) and nervonic acid (C24).

[0193] It is preferable that each of the (d) fatty acids be chosen from among the unsaturated fatty acids, and more preferably the C8-C22 unsaturated fatty acids and even more preferably the C8-C22 unsaturated fatty acids with one, two or three carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0194] It is preferable that each of the (d) fatty acids be chosen from the group consisting of linoleic acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and a mixture of these, and even more preferably linoleic acid, oleic acid, and a mixture of these.

[0195] As (d) fatty acids, vitamin F may be used. Vitamin F here refers to a mixture of a plurality of unsaturated fatty acids which includes, at least, linoleic acid. Preferably, vitamin F should include linoleic acid and linolenic acid. Preferably, vitamin F should include linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and linolenic acid.

[0196] The quantity of the (d) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0197] Furthermore, the quantity of the (d) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0198] Accordingly, the quantity of the (d) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] (Organic alkaline agent)

[0200] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one organic alkali agent. Only one type of organic alkali agent may be used, but two or more different types of organic alkali agents may be used in combination.

[0201] As (e) organic alkaline agent, any conventional organic alkaline agent in the field of cosmetics may be used.

[0202] Preferably, the (e) organic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of monoamines and their derivatives; diamines and their derivatives; polyamines and their derivatives; basic amino acids and their derivatives; oligomers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; urea and its derivatives; and guanidine and its derivatives such as guanidine carbonate.

[0203] Examples of (e) organic alkali agents include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine, ornithine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below: RI R3 HR / \ R2 R4

[0204] in which R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a Ci-C4 alkyl radical, and Rh R2, R3 and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a CrC4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.

[0205] It is preferable that the (e) organic alkali agent be chosen from among the alkanolamines and basic amino acids, more preferably from the group consisting of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, lysine, histidine, arginine and a mixture thereof, and even more preferably from the group consisting of triethanolamine, arginine and a mixture thereof.

[0206] The quantity of the organic alkali agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0207] The quantity of the organic alkali agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0208] The quantity of the organic alkali(s) agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] (Oil)

[0210] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one oil. Only one type of oil may be used, but two or more different types of oils may be used in combination.

[0211] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0212] The (f) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0213] The (f) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0214] Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0215] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0216] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0217] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0218] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0219] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0220] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and Ci-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols, may also be used.

[0221] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; trii-socetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0222] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids, and preferably C2-C22, may be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing oxygen, containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0223] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0224] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C30, and preferably in C[2-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0225] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0226] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0227] More specifically, monoesters and diesters are used, in particular mono-ooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0228] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0229] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0230] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, trili- glyceryl nolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0231] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, do-decamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0232] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0233] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0234] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0235] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and more particularly from:

[0236] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecam ethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula: DD ----DD —; ÇHa '--------------------------------J with D”: ° ~~ with D?: "" & ™ O -

[0237] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and d'oxy-l,r-bis(2,2',2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0238] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane, sold notably under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0239] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0240] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia; • Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s; and • Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0241] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0242] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0243] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0244] in which

[0245] Ri in Rio are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals and more preferably C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

[0246] m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive and, more preferably, from 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0247] provided that the sum n+m+q is not 0.

[0248] The products sold under the following names are examples that can be cited: • Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range by Rhodia; • the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; • Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; • silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20; • certain oils from General Electric's SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0249] As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to Rio are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=l in the formula above) is preferable.

[0250] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0251] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from: • Lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0252] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0253] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

[0254] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0255] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, lino-leyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0256] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0257] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 alcohols, linear or branched, preferably from saturated C6-C30 alcohols, linear or branched, and more preferably from saturated Ci2-C20 alcohols, linear or branched.

[0258] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long, saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be chosen from any saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C2-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used preferentially. Any saturated C6-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used preferentially. Branched C6-C20 fatty alcohols may be used even more preferentially.

[0259] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0260] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0261] It is preferable that the (f) oil be chosen from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from vegetable oils.

[0262] The quantity of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the com- position.

[0263] The quantity of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0264] The quantity of the (f) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0265] (Optional ingredient)

[0266] The composition according to the present invention may include, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients typically used in cosmetics, specifically, surfactants / emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, derived, for example, from synthetic polymers other than (a) the cationic polymer or from volatile or non-volatile organic solvents such as monovalent or divalent alcohols (e.g. ethanol and pentylene glycol); anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers such as beta-glucan; silicones and silicone derivatives; natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than (a) the cationic polymer; waxes; and the like, within a range that does not alter the effects of the present invention.

[0267] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0268] The amount of synthetic surfactant(s) / emulsifier(s) and / or thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention not include any synthetic surfactant / emulsifier or thickener.

[0269] The amount of the anionic or amphoteric polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention not comprise any anionic or amphoteric polymer. [pH]

[0270] The pH of the composition according to the present invention is less than 7.0, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, more preferably less than or equal to 6.0, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5.5. It may be particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention has a pH of 5.0 or less.

[0271] In other words, the composition according to the present invention is acidic.

[0272] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be corrected by adding the (b) a monovalent non-polymer acid or a salt thereof, and / or at least one alkali agent and / or (c) an organic alkali agent. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can also be corrected by adding at least one buffering agent. [Preparation]

[0273] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0274] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0275] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and homogenizer. Furthermore, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process of preparing the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly. [Cosmetic application]

[0276] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance. Here, keratinous substance means a material containing keratin as its principal constituent, and examples thereof include skin, scalp, lips, hair, and the like. Therefore, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process on the keratinous substance, in particular the skin.

[0277] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition for the skin, preferably a cosmetic skin care composition or a skin makeup composition, and more preferably a cosmetic skin care composition. [Shape]

[0278] The composition according to the present invention may be in any form.

[0279] For example, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a solution, a dispersion, or a gel.

[0280] The composition according to the present invention may have a transparent or translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance.

[0281] If the composition according to the present invention comprises (c) water and (f) at least one oil, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion, for example, an H / W or W / O emulsion. [ Movie ]

[0282] The composition according to the present invention can be used to easily prepare a film. In other words, the composition according to the present invention can form a film.

[0283] Thus, the present invention may also relate to a process for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness of 0.5 µm or more, more preferably of 1.0 µm or more, and even more preferably of 1.5 µm or more, comprising:

[0284] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, more preferably the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0285] the drying of the composition.

[0286] The upper limit of the thickness of the film according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, for example, the thickness of the film according to the present invention can be 300 mm or less, preferably 200 pm or less, and more preferably 100 pm or less.

[0287] Since the process for preparing a film according to the present invention comprises the steps of applying the composition according to the present invention onto a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably skin, and drying the composition, the process according to the present invention does not require deposition on a turntable or spraying, and it is therefore possible to easily prepare a relatively thick film. Thus, the process for preparing a film according to the present invention can prepare a relatively thick film without any special equipment such as deposition turntables and spraying machines.

[0288] If the substrate is not a keratinous substance such as skin, the composition according to the present invention can be applied to a substrate made of any material other than keratin. The materials of the non-keratinous substrate are not limited. Two or more materials can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of material or a combination of different types of materials can be used. In all cases, it is preferable that the substrate be flexible or elastic.

[0289] If the non-keratinous substrate is in the form of a sheet, it may have a thickness greater than that of the film according to the present invention, in order to facilitate the ma nipulation of the film attached to the substrate sheet. The thickness of the non-keratinous substrate sheet is not limited, but can be from 1 µm to 5 mm, preferably from 10 µm to 1 mm, and more preferably, from 50 to 500 µm.

[0290] It is preferable that the film according to the present invention be able to be released from the non-keratinous substrate. The method of release is not limited. For example, the film according to the present invention can be peeled from the non-keratinous substrate.

[0291] The present invention may also relate to:

[0292] (1) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally of a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 pm, more preferably 1.0 pm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 pm or more, prepared by a process comprising:

[0293] the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably to the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0294] drying of the composition,

[0295] and

[0296] (2) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally of a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 pm, more preferably 1.0 pm or more, even more preferably 1.5 pm or more, comprising:

[0297] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0298] (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; and

[0299] (d) at least two fatty acids.

[0300] The above explanations concerning the (a) cationic polymer and the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, as well as (c) water and (d) fatty acids, for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those of the film (2) above.

[0301] The film according to the present invention may also comprise (e) an organic alkali agent and / or (f) at least one oil. The above explanations concerning the (e) organic alkali agent and the (b) oil for the composition according to the present invention may apply to those that may be included in the film according to the present invention.

[0302] The film according to the present invention may be biocompatible and / or biodegradable.

[0303] The term "biocompatible" in this descriptive document means that the polymer does not have excessive interaction between the film and cells in the living body including the skin, and that the film is not recognized by the living body as a foreign material.

[0304] The term “biodegradable” in this specification means that the film can be degraded or broken down in a living body due to, for example, the metabolism of the living body itself, or the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in the living body. Also, the biodegradable polymer can be degraded by hydrolysis.

[0305] If the film according to the present invention is biocompatible and / or biodegradable, for example, it may be less irritating or non-irritating to the skin and / or it may not contaminate environments.

[0306] In fact, the film according to the present invention may include (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosans which are biodegradable polymers.

[0307] The film according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments of keratinous substances, preferably the skin, particularly the face. The film according to the present invention can be in any shape. [Cosmetic process and use]

[0308] The present invention also relates to:

[0309] a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance; or

[0310] a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a cosmetic film on a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0311] The cosmetic process here refers to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of the surface of a keratinous substance such as the skin.

[0312] It is also possible to apply a cosmetic makeup composition to the cosmetic film according to the present invention after its application to the skin.

[0313] The present invention may relate to a process for stabilizing a composition, comprising:

[0314] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0315] (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

[0316] (c) water; and

[0317] (d) at least two fatty acids,

[0318] by controlling the pH of the composition to be less than 7.0, preferably 6.5 or less, more preferably 6.0 or less, and even more preferably 5.5 or less.

[0319] In one embodiment, the present invention may also relate to the use of (e) at least one organic alkali agent

[0320] in a composition comprising:

[0321] (a) at least one cationic polymer;

[0322] (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

[0323] (c) water; and

[0324] (d) at least two fatty acids,

[0325] in order to stabilize the composition while controlling that the pH of the composition is less than 7.0, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, more preferably less than or equal to 6.0, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5.5.

[0326] The above explanations concerning the (a) cationic polymer, the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, (c) water and the (d) fatty acids for the composition according to the present invention, can be applied to those in the above use.

[0327] The composition relating to the above-mentioned use according to the present invention may also include (e) at least one organic alkali and / or (f) at least one oil. The above explanations concerning (e) the organic alkali and (b) the oil for the composition according to the present invention may apply to those that may be included in the composition relating to the use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0328] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2 [Preparations]

[0329] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0330] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Chitosan (80% aqueous solution by weight) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Lactic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Glycerin 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Vitamin F 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Triethanolamine - q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. pH 4.7 6.0 6.5 7.0 7.5 Stability Good Good Fair Poor Poor

[0331] Vitamin F: Mixture of linoleic acid (77% by weight), oleic acid (14% by weight), palmitic acid (5% by weight), stearic acid (2% by weight) and linolenic acid (2% by weight) [Evaluation]

[0332] (Stability)

[0333] Each of the compositions according to examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2 was stored in a transparent container and maintained at room temperature (25 °C) for two weeks. The stability of the compositions was observed visually and evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0334] Good: No particles were observed.

[0335] Correct: Small particles were observed.

[0336] Bad: Large particles were observed.

[0337] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0338] The compositions according to examples 1-3 were stable so that the former retained a uniform appearance without forming large particles, whereas the compositions according to comparative examples 1-2 were not stable because large particles were observed. Examples 4-5 and comparative examples 3-4 [Preparations]

[0339] Each of the compositions according to examples 4-5 and comparative examples 3-4 has was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 2. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients shown in Table 2 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0340] [Tables2] Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. Comp. 3 Ex. Comp. 4 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Chitosan (80% aqueous solution by weight) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Lactic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Glycerin 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Oleic acid 0.15 0.15 1.0 1.0 Linoleic acid 0.85 0.85 - - Soybean oil - 5.0 - 5.0 pH 4.71 4.60 4.93 5.22 Immediate mattifying effect Control Very good Control Very poor

[0341] (Immediate checkmate effect)

[0342] Each of the compositions according to examples 4-5 and comparative examples 3-4 was spread on a contrast sheet with an automatic film applicator to form a layer of 100 sqm and left to dry at 37 °C for 24 hours.

[0343] The reflectance on the white part of the above sheet was measured three times by a lustrometer (GM-268, Konica Minolta) as the 60° luster value and averaged. The 60° luster value of the composition according to Example 4 was established as the first control. The 60° luster value of the composition according to Example 5 was compared to that of the first control and evaluated according to the following criteria. In addition, the 60° luster value of the composition according to Comparative Example 3 was established as the second control. The 60° luster value of the composition according to Comparative Example 4 was compared to that of the second control and evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0344] Very good: Identical

[0345] Good: Slightly different

[0346] Bad: Different

[0347] Bad: Very different

[0348] The results are shown in Table 2.

[0349] The luster of the compositions according to Example 5 was the same as that of the composition according to Example 4. It can be understood that the immediate matte effect of the composition according to the present invention including a plurality of fatty acids, is not influenced by the inclusion of oil.

[0350] The luster of the compositions according to Comparative Example 4 was very different from that of the composition according to Example 3. It can be understood that the immediate matte effect is significantly influenced by the inclusion of oil if only one fatty acid is used. Examples 1 and 6-11 [Preparations]

[0351] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 6-11 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 3. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients shown in Table 3 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0352] [Tables3] Ex. 1 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Ex. 10 Ex. 11 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan (80% aqueous solution by weight) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Lactic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Glycerin 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Vitamin F 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Soybean oil - 1.0 5.0 10.0 20.0 25.0 30.0 pH 4.70 4.76 4.70 4.85 4.90 4.93 4.95 Immediate matte effect Indicator Very good Very good Very good Very good Good Very good

[0353] Vitamin F: Mixture of linoleic acid (77% by weight), oleic acid (14% by weight), palmitic acid (5% by weight), stearic acid (2% by weight) and linolenic acid (2% by weight) [Evaluation]

[0354] (Immediate checkmate effect)

[0355] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 6-11 was spread onto a contrast sheet with an automatic film applicator to form a 100 sqm layer and left to dry at 37 °C for 24 hours.

[0356] The reflectance on the white part of the above-mentioned sheet was measured three times by a lustrometer (GM-268, Konica Minolta) as the 60° luster value and averaged. The 60° luster value of the composition according to Example 1 was set as the control. The 60° luster value of the composition according to Examples 6-11 was compared to that of the control and evaluated according to the following criteria.

[0357] Very good: Identical

[0358] Good: Slightly different

[0359] Bad: Different

[0360] Bad: Very different

[0361] The results are shown in Table 3.

[0362] The luster of the compositions according to Examples 6-11 was identical or similar to that of the composition according to Example 1. It can be understood that the immediate matte effect of the composition according to the present invention including a plurality of fatty acids, is not influenced by the inclusion of oil, regardless of the amount of oil.

Claims

Claims

1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and, more preferably, a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof; (c) water; and (d) at least two fatty acids, wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7.0, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, more preferably less than or equal to 6.0, and even more preferably less than or equal to 5.

5.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) cationic polymer has a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines and chitosans, cationic (co)polyamino acids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers and their salts.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) may be from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid is a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent non-polymeric carboxylic acid, and more preferably a monovalent hydroxy acid such as lactic acid and salicylic acid.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (d) fatty acids are selected from linoleic acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and a mixture thereof, and preferably linoleic acid, oleic acid, and a mixture thereof.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the composition further comprises (e) at least one organic alkaline agent.

8. A composition according to claim 7, wherein the (e) organic alkaline agent is selected from alkanolamines and basic amino acids, preferably from the group consisting of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, lysine, histidine, arginine and a mixture thereof, and more preferably from the group consisting of triethanolamine, arginine and a mixture thereof.

9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, the composition further comprising (f) at least one oil.

10. A cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising: applying to the keratinous substance the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance.