Extract of defatted almonds of Carapa procera and its cosmetic uses.

Abstract

Cosmetic use of defatted almond extracts of Carapa procera from the Meliaceae family intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body in order to reduce pigmentation and signs of aging such as lack of radiance, wrinkles, loss of firmness and elasticity.

Description

Title of the invention: Extract of defatted almonds of Carapa procera and its cosmetic uses.

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition or a composition intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and capillary systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous, glycerin or hydroalcoholic extract of delipidated almonds of Carapa procera of the Meliaceae family having the property of reducing pigmentation and the signs of aging of the skin such as lack of radiance, wrinkles, loss of firmness and elasticity.

[0002] We know that more and more cosmetics are trying to claim a more organic, more ecological, more natural mode of action with the new ISO 16128 standard, vegan and even slow cosmetics (ecological, healthy, intelligent and reasonable) taking into account the real needs of the skin, advocating the use of fewer ingredients (skinimalism) to do better, even frugality, positive contributions for the skin and realistic promises. A response to this concern could then be plant extracts with multiple, multifunctional and complementary properties that are sufficient on their own and therefore do not require the addition of other active substances in cosmetic compositions.

[0003] Many people think that the surface of the skin on which cosmetics are applied is a dead and inert structure. In fact, this is not the case and the epidermis, including its surface horny layer, is the site of intense biochemical reactions where activators, inhibitors and inhibitor inhibitors ensure a balance and homeostasis that vary with the time of day, the seasons and age. Each of the epidermal cells and particularly the keratinocytes which are the predominant cells of the epidermis, presents a complex and fine metabolism leading to maturation and cellular differentiation under the control of the expression of the 36,000 genes and variants that compose them.

[0004] It is then easy to imagine the interest of being able to select and test plant substances on the expression of all of these genes in order to be able to select the most interesting extracts and develop the most effective extraction and production methods.

[0005] Among all the plants studied, the African Carapa procera of the family of Meliaceae has many well-known properties when used as a whole, and particularly its oil. Indeed, Campa procera oil, called Tou-loucouna oil in Senegal, is a medicinal oil rich in properties, used for a variety of internal and external treatments. It reduces skin inflammation and acts against psoriasis, scalp problems and insect bites, as well as in cases of rheumatism, ringworm and ulcers. It has even been the subject of an international application W02009155497A1.

[0006] However, the use of oil is not always appreciated by users in cosmetics. Therefore, there is a need to provide other non-lipid captive forms of African Campa procera for cosmetic or therapeutic purposes.

[0007] One of the aims of the invention is to provide a non-greasy composition.

[0008] Another aim of the invention is to propose the use of such a composition in the context of a cosmetic application.

[0009] In the context of the invention, the term "water-soluble extract of a plant or part of a plant such as almonds" means the result of any extraction in a water-soluble solvent such as, for example, water itself, a hydroethanolic solution or glycerin and which can serve as a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and therefore be formulated directly in order to produce a final cosmetic composition. These extracts can be formulated directly at around 0.1% to 5% or stored in the dry state after evaporation of the water or water plus ethanol or even as is in the case of a glycerin solvent.

[0010] It is from the observation that very often plants contain a significant portion of lipids which hinder the release of substances of interest and require the use of complex solvents other than simple water, hydroethanolic solvents or vegetable glycerin that the idea came to separate, beforehand, these lipids from the rest of the plant to be extracted.

[0011] It was by studying the properties of different aqueous extracts of Campa procera almond after delipidation obtained after one or more successive cold pressings, on the expression of the genes of normal human keratinocytes that the applicant discovered, quite unexpectedly, that these extracts of Campa procera had numerous properties of interest to healthy skin and therefore to cosmetics, particularly those concerned with minimalist formulas since a given multifunctional extract could have numerous properties which complement each other and reduce the use of numerous different active substances.

[0012] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of African Campa procera of the Meliaceae family, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[0013] Consequently, a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition intended to be put in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and capillary systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of African Campa procera of the Meliaceae family having the effect of reducing the pigmentation of healthy skin after topical application as well as its signs of aging.

[0014] The applicant has in fact tested several aqueous or hydroethanolic extracts of Campa procera on the complete genome of normal human keratinocytes and particularly by analysis of gene expression at the scale of the entire genome (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes following the extraction of the total transcribed RiboNucleic Acids (RNA) followed by hybridization on DeoxyRibonucleic Acid (DNA) microchips. The principle of the DNA chip is based on the property that denatured DNA (single strand) has of spontaneously reforming its double helix when it is in the presence of a complementary strand (hybridization reaction). Since it is possible to attach up to a million probes to a biochip, DNA chips constitute a massive approach that the inventor used since they allow in a single experiment to have an estimate on the expression of several tens of thousands of genes.

[0015] Advantageously, said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during the extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

[0016] Also advantageously, said water-soluble extract of Campa procera almonds is produced from almonds previously defatted by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the almonds.

[0017] Even more advantageously, said water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

[0018] In the context of the invention, the term "from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids" means that the extract may comprise 0, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1% by mass of lipid relative to the mass of the extract.

[0019] Also within the scope of the invention, said extract of delipidated almonds of Campa procera has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

[0020] Advantageously, the composition is characterized in that said water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of African Campa procera represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0021] In the context of the invention, the term "from 0.1% to 5% by mass" means that the composition may comprise 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 or 5% by mass of defatted extract relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0022] The effects of different plant extracts were thus investigated on gene expression in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK). More precisely, a complete transcriptome analysis (full transcriptome), i.e. all the genes expressed at a given time, was carried out using the Affymetrix GeneAtlas platform and the U219 “full human transcriptome” chip containing 36,000 so-called transcribed genes and variants.

[0023] This method, described in more detail in the examples below, makes it possible to choose, depending on the genes stimulated, i.e. whose expression is significantly increased, or inhibited, i.e. whose expression is significantly reduced, the most interesting plants for cosmetic use and which has made it possible to show the interest of Campa Procera from the Meliaceae family among other plants thus tested.

[0024] Then by taking the most interesting gene or genes, this method allows to select the optimum protocol(s) in order to obtain the best possible results. Here for Campa procera the IGFBP-3 gene (Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein-3 was used to determine that it was the delipidated almonds then extracted in a simple solvent which made it possible to obtain an increase in expression of more than 34 times in these normal human keratinocytes (NHEK). The relative expression of this IGFBP-3 gene in the control keratinocytes had a signal intensity of 38.09 while in the keratinocytes put in contact with the water-soluble extract of Campa procera thus selected had a signal intensity of 1299.26, i.e. a stimulation of the expression of this gene called fold change or rate of modification, under the experimental conditions, of more than 34 times (34.11).

[0025] This made it possible to determine an optimum when the extraction was carried out in simple solvents such as water, hydroethanolic mixtures in which the ethanol is then recycled after complete evaporation or mixtures of water and glycerin, whose moisturizing properties for the skin are no longer in doubt.

[0026] These tests make it possible to demonstrate the interest of a characterized cosmetic composition in that it consists of a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of African Carapa procera of the Meliaceae family produced by mechanical separation of the almonds contained in the seeds and then by one or more cold pressings of the almonds, after or without prior roasting, followed by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours and at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C in order to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then extraction or maceration in water with or without the addition of enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even maceration in glycerol alone and which can then be filtered or centrifuged and stored and used directly in their respective solvent or dried again or freeze-dried or even zeodrated, having the effect, using a single multifunctional extract, of reducing the pigmentation of healthy skin after topical application as well as its signs of aging.

[0027] The invention also relates to a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of African Carapa procera of the Meliaceae family, characterized in that it comprises water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and that it is prepared from 10% by weight of defatted almonds then dried from the solvent used for extraction or maceration.

[0028] This makes it possible to obtain a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of African Carapa procera from the Meliaceae family, characterized in that it is intended to be applied to healthy skin to reduce its pigmentation and its signs of aging, such as lack of radiance, wrinkles, loss of firmness and elasticity, as well as its dehydration.

[0029] Or more precisely a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of African Carapa procera of the Meliaceae family for the treatment or prevention of hyperpigmentation of healthy skin and its cutaneous aging, particularly when the skin cells do not synthesize enough IGFBP-3 (Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein-3) as during their aging or their senescence or when there is an interest in reducing their syntheses of kinectin 1 (KTN1), LUC7-like (LUC7L3), golgin A or Calpastatin (CAST), genes promoting the synthesis of melanins and therefore epidermal hyperpigmentation.

[0030] Here we mean by hyperpigmentation of the skin excessive skin pigmentation from an aesthetic point of view but without any pathology and which can therefore be improved or corrected by the topical use of a cosmetic.

[0031] Indeed IGFBP-3 is a true marker of aging which decreases when senescence is induced in skin cell culture by hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) compared to cells which have remained young. There is therefore a cosmetic interest in increasing its expression in a physiological manner. Kinectin 1 (KTN1) in association with endogenous kinetin is essential in the maturation and migration of melanosomes in the dendrites within the tubulins of the melanocyte before the latter transfers its melanosomes to the keratinocytes, a phenomenon responsible for pigmentation. Reducing this kinectin-1 by up to 90% will reduce pigmentation locally and cosmetically. Reducing the expression of LUC7L3 splicing factor, the apoptotic process and golgin A involved in the tubulins also contribute to this reduction in pigmentation, by putting it in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body and therefore cosmetically, just like the reduction in the expression of calpastatin whose signal intensity goes from 33.24 to 0.09 (more than 90% reduction in the expression of this gene) thus inhibiting calpain involved in alpha-MSH-induced melanogenesis with an action at the level of tyrosinase, the target of many cosmetics seeking to reduce skin pigmentation, as shown by Ohguchi K et al. Involvement of calpain in melanogenesis of mouse B16 melanoma cells. Mol CellBiochem. 2005 Jul;275(l-2): 103-7. doi: 10.1007 / sll010-005-1081-0. PMID: 16335789. .

[0032] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of African Campa procera of the Meliaceae family intended to be used in the treatment and / or prevention of hyperpigmentation and skin aging, characterized in that the aqueous, hydroethanolic or hydroglycerin extracts are capable of improving the expression of IGFBP-3 and reducing those of KTN1, LUC7L3, golgin A or CAST optimized by genome-wide gene expression analysis (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes and by DNA microarray hybridization.

[0033] Advantageously, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined above, the hyperpigmentation of healthy skin and its cutaneous aging, particularly when the skin cells do not synthesize enough IGFBP-3 (Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein-3) as during their aging or senescence or when there is an interest in reducing their syntheses of kinectin 1 (KTN1), LUC7-like (LUC7L3), golgin A or Cal-pastatin (CAST), genes promoting the synthesis of melanins and therefore epidermal hyperpigmentation.

[0034] For cosmetic use, we then see the interest of a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of African Campa procera of the Meliaceae family, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / W), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, freeze-dried gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which may be presented in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

[0035] As well as a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of African Campa procera of the Meliaceae family, which composition is in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a gel lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a moisturizing serum, a serum improving the appearance of wrinkles, a moisturizing body milk, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

[0036] All this therefore allows the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition for topical application to healthy skin with the aim of using a multifunctional extract making it possible to both reduce its pigmentation and its signs of aging, in particular the lack of radiance of the skin, wrinkles, loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin as well as its dehydration.

[0037] Cosmetic care method for healthy skin to prevent and slow down pigmentation and aging of healthy skin comprising the topical administration of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of delipidated Campaprocera almonds and optimized by the use of analysis of the expression of the whole genome (full genome) of cultured human keratinocytes (NHEK) in order to determine all of the properties as well as the optimization of their preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, the interest or not of prior roasting, the % of delipidated and dried almonds or the nature of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.

[0038] Also this water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of African Campa procera of the Meliaceae family induces a healing reaction with remodeling of the cytoskeleton and secretion of MMPs (MMP9, MMP7) and thus promotes cell migration of healthy skin cells. Tested at 0.066 mg / ml this extract induced morphological modifications, linked to cell cohesion (increase of KRT1, DSC1, DSG1, SPRR2A, SPRR2D, KLK7) as well as an inhibition of certain markers of keratinocyte differentiation (FLG, IVL) with: MMPS for Matrix Metallopeptidase proteins that allow remodeling of the extracellular matrix having polymorphic genes like MMP7 for ma-trilysin and MMP9 for Matrix Metallopeptidase 9. And the following genes useful for the maturation of the epidermal stratum corneum: KRT1 for Keratin 1 of the cytoskeleton DSC1 for Desmocollin, an adhesive protein of cell-cell junctions at the level of desmosomes and of the cadherin family DSG1 for desmoglein-1 also located at the level of desmosomes SPRR2A and SPRR2D for Small Proline Rich protein 2A and 2B which are antimicrobial proteins that are remodeled during terminal differentiation of the epidermal stratum corneum to form the horny envelopes. KLK7 for kallikrein Related Peptidase 7 a chymotrypsin-like serine protease capable of cleaving corneodesmosomes promoting and coordinating desquamation. FLG and IVL genes for Profilaggrin constitutive of keratohyalin granules and for Involucrin constituent of the epidermal horny envelope. Thus this water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of African Campa procera from the Meliaceae family increases cellular cohesion and slows down epidermal differentiation and therefore desquamation while remaining physiological, leaving more time for the epidermis to build itself better and thus enabling it to better correct the signs of aging.

[0039] The compound also induced an inhibition of the proliferation / division process by inhibiting genes coding for cyclins or genes linked to cell division (CDC27, CDC37, CDCA8, CDC16, CDC73) and by stimulating the IGFBP3 gene (involved in negative regulation of cell proliferation). With CDC for Cell Division Cycle and IFGBP3 for Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein-3 also linked to cell divisions because it promotes apoptosis by interaction between transferrin, fibronectin and plasminogen. IGFBP3 is above all a marker of aging because it decreases during senescence induced by H2O2 (In particular, the expression level of IGFBP-3 was decreased in senescent and H2O2-induced old cells compared with young cells) Sugyeong Hong et al. IGFBP-3 plays an important role in senescence as an aging marker.Environmental in Toxicology and Pharmacology Elsevier April 2018 In the previously described full transcriptome studies IGFBP3 was overexpressed 34.11 times more compared to the control, and the different cyclins saw their expressions reduced between 36% and 50% Kinectin 1 also sees its expression reduced by more than 90% and as it plays an important role interacting with kinesin in the transfer of melanosomes in the dendrites of melanocytes before their transfers essential for skin pigmentation to keratinocytes as shown by Vancoillie G et al. Kinesin and kinectin 1 can associate with the melanosomal surface and form a link with microtubules in normal human melanocytes. J Invest Dermatol. 2000 Mar;114(3):421-9. doi: 10.1046 / j.l523-1747.2000.00896.x. PMID: 10692099. Its reduction of more than 90% by these extracts of defatted Carapa almonds makes it an extract of choice for reducing and controlling skin pigmentation in a cosmetic way.

[0040] The invention further relates to the above-mentioned composition, for its use in the treatment or prevention of hyperpigmentation of healthy skin and its skin aging, in particular hyperpigmentation of healthy skin and its skin aging linked to an under-expression of IGFBP-3 (Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein-3) of the skin cells, or in the context of the over-expression of genes promoting melanin synthesis, such as kinectin 1 (KTN1), LUC7-like (LUC7L3), golgin A or Calpastatin (CAST).

[0041] Examples are given below without being limiting in order to illustrate the invention.

[0042] Example 1. Obtaining water-soluble extracts from defatted almonds of Carapa procera. The extracts of defatted almonds of African Carapa procera of the Meliaceae family are made by mechanical separation of the almonds from the seeds then by one or more cold pressings of the almonds, after or without prior roasting, followed by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours and at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C in order to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then extraction or maceration in water with or without the addition of enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even maceration in glycerol alone and can then be filtered or centrifuged and be stored and used directly in their respective solvent or dried again or freeze-dried or even zeodrated. They can therefore include water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and be prepared from 10% by weight of defatted almonds then dried from the solvent used for extraction or maceration. These extracts can be tested directly or can be dried, dehydrated, lyophilized or zeodrated before testing. In the latter case, they are rehydrated or diluted with purified water as a solvent. We will call ECP (for Extract of Carapa Procera) the extracts obtained and used in the following examples.

[0043] Example 2. Tests and example results. The biological model: Normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) at passage 3, cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25ng / ml and EP at 25ug plus gentamicin 25ug. The test medium consists of keratinocytes SFM with only gentamicin 25 ug / ml Experimental conditions: Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours and then in test medium for another 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the test compounds and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All experimental conditions were carried out in triplicate (n=3). At the end of the incubation, the culture supernatants were removed and the cell lawns were rinsed with PBS solution. The plate was immediately frozen dry at -80°C. Prior to extraction, culture replicates were pooled. Total RNA from each sample was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the supplier's recommended protocol. RNA quantity and quality were assessed by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). The synthesis of biotinylated antisense RNA (aRNA) was carried out using the “GeneChip 3TVT Express” kit (Affymetrix®). For each biotinylated RNA sample, an electrophoretic profile was performed (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent) before and after fragmentation. Hybridization of labeled and fragmented aRNAs to the Affymetrix® U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) was performed on the GeneAtlas™ fluidics Affymetrix® hybridization station for 20 hours at 45°C. The U219 chips were then scanned using the GeneAtlas™ Imaging station (Affymetrix® - resolution 2 pm) to generate signal intensity data as shown in the example results below. Signal intensity data were normalized using Expression Console software (Affymetrix®), based on the RMA algorithm. Quality control of the labeling and hybridization was then performed. Quality controls of the hybridization and labeling steps allowed validation of the experimental process Once normalized with Expression Console software, the data was transferred and formatted into a Microsoft Excel file. Calculations and filters have been added to these files to sort the data and make it easier to use. The fold change thresholds (value corresponding to the ratio: signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the treated sample / signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the control) were defined and applied to the normalized data. The following abbreviations are used in the analysis files: - UR: Upregulated - over-expression or stimulation of the probe or gene when the fold change is greater than 2, - DR: Downregulated - underexpression or inhibition of the probe or gene when the fold change is less than 0.5. Each analysis file consists of: - The signal intensity value (RE: Relative Expression) corresponding to each of the samples, - Calculations of “fold change” or modification rate for each comparison, - Information relating to each gene. Filters inserted into these files allow the selection of significantly modulated genes. The example of gene probes corresponding to the variation in expression of IGFBP3 and KTN1 thus obtained with this methodology with ECP for Delipidated Almond Extract of Campa Procera, the numbers indicated correspond to the intensity of the signal obtained for the control and for the ECP test: Signal intensity for IGFNP3 (Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein-3): - probe 1 - Witness: 38.09 - ECP: 1299.21 - Change rate: 34.11 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for IGFNP3 (Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein-3): - probe 2 - Witness: 32.66 - ECP: 1043.07 - Change rate: 31.94 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for KTN1 (Kinectin 1 or Kinesin receptor): - probe 3 - Witness: 636.88 - ECP: 52.41 - Change rate: 0.08 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for KTN1 (Kinectin 1 or Kinesin receptor): - probe 4 - Witness: 532.45 - ECP: 42.41 - Change rate: 0.08 - Regulation: DR

[0044] In the examples below, which give examples of how these compositions are produced, without this list being exhaustive, the following abbreviations will be used: ECP for Carapa Procera Defatted Almond Extract.

[0045] Example 3. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - Acrylate C10-30........................................................0.50 g - Arginine............................................................0.001g - Glycerin..................................................................................1.00 g - ECP..........................................................................................0.20 g - Alcohol.................................................................2.00 g - Carbomer................................................................................0.126 g - EDTA..............................................................................................0.005 g - Preservative.......................................................................0.867 g - Carapa Oil.................................................................................0.5 g - Hydrogenated lecithin..................................................0.09 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................................0.20 g - TEA 99%...................................................................................0.62 g - Colorings........................................................................0.0002 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use for 25 volunteers aged 20 to 70, the skin appeared significantly more hydrated.

[0046] Example 4. According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: Carboxypolymethylene or carboxylic polymer..................0.40 g Diethanolamine cetyl phosphate............................................1.50 g Octyl dodecanol............................................................5.50 g Cetyl alcohol..................................................................1.00 g Mineral oil.................................................................2.00 g Stearic acid.................................................................1.00 g Ethoxylated steryl alcohol (20 E)...........................................0.30 g Cetostearyl alcohol.................................................................1.80 g Preservative.................................................................0.15 g Carapa Oil................................................................0.50 g Triethanolamine..........................................................0.60 g Cyclomethicone............................................................12.00 g Dimethicone copolyol........................................................3.00 g Phenyl trimeticone................................................................2.00 g ECP................................................................................3.00 g Dextran.........................................................................1.00 g Glycerin............................................................................2.00 g Demineralized water qsp........................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use on 25 volunteers, the skin appeared smoothed within 2 hours of each application. At the end of the treatment, the number of wrinkles, their length and width were significantly reduced and the skin was more hydrated for 90% of users.

[0047] Example 5. H / W emulsion: - Liquid paraffin.................................................6 g - Liquid lanolin................................................................3 g - Arlacel 165................................................................6 g - Tween 60...................................................................2 g - Cetyl alcohol................................................................1.2 g - Stearic acid.................................................2.5 g - Arginine........................................................................0.5 g - Volatile silicone oil................................................................10 g - Triethanolamine................................................................0.1g - Preservative.................................................................0.3 g - ECP..........................................................................5 g - Hyaluronic acid.......................................................0.5 g - Demineralized water qsp..................................................100 g After 4 weeks of twice-daily use by 25 volunteers aged 33 to 70, the skin appeared significantly more toned for 100% of users.

[0048] Example 6. Liposome Cream: . - Cetyl alcohol..................................................................................4 g - B-sitosterol...................................................................................4 g - Dicetyl phosphate................................................................................0.5 g - Preservative............................................................................0.3 g - Carbopol 981 ...................................................................0.2 g - Triethanolamine.........................................................................0.2 g - Phospholipid........................................................................................0.05 g - ECP..................................................................................1.5 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After use on a panel of 25 volunteers aged 18 to 70, the skin appeared so Significantly hydrated within 3 hours of the first application and firmer for 65% of users after 4 weeks of use.

[0049] Example 7. W / O emulsion: - Protégin......................................................................19g - Glycerin..................................................................................3 g - Vaseline oil.................................................................................8 g - Mg sulfate.............................................................................0.5 g - ECP............................................................................0.5 g - Hyaluronic acid.................................................................0.02 g - Preservative............................................................2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0050] Example 8. O / W gel emulsion - Carbopol 981 ..................................................................0.6 g - Ethyl alcohol.................................................................................15 g - Volatile silicone oil..................................................................3 g - Jojoba oil.............................................................................7 g - Preservative............................................................0.3 g - Perfume...................................................................0.4 g - ECP..........................................................................................0.1 g

[0051] Example 9. Glycerin concentrate - Glycerin...................................................................65 g -ECP..................................................................................................5 g - Arginine..........................................................................................1 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................... 1 g - Perfume..............................................................0.4 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of African Campa procera of the Meliaceae family, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during the extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that said water-soluble extract of Campa procera almonds is produced from almonds previously defatted by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of almonds.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, said water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Campa procera comprising less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said extract of delipidated almonds of Campa procera has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 is characterized in that said water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of African Campa procera represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / W), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, freeze-dried gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and can be presented in creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said composition being in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a gel lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizer, a moisturizer serum, a serum improving the appearance of wrinkles, a moisturizer body milk, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for topical application to healthy skin for the purpose of using a multifunctional extract making it possible to reduce both its pigmentation and its signs of aging, in particular the lack of radiance of the skin, wrinkles, loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin as well as its dehydration.

10. Cosmetic care method for healthy skin to prevent and slow down pigmentation and aging of healthy skin comprising the topical administration of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Campa procera and optimized by the use of analysis of the expression of the entire genome (full genome) of human keratinocytes in culture in order to determine all of their properties as well as the optimization of their preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, the interest or not of prior roasting, the % of defatted and dried almonds or the nature of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.