Water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense and its cosmetic uses

Abstract

Cosmetic use of extracts of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family with multifunctional effects and intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body.

Description

Title of the invention: Water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense and its cosmetic uses

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and capillary systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous, glycerin or hydroethanolic extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient allowing both,to fight against aging and improve epidermal firmness by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle as well as restoring and protecting the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome as well as reducing skin imperfections.

[0002] We know that more and more cosmetics are trying to claim a more organic, more ecological, more natural mode of action with the new ISO 16128 standard, vegan and even slow cosmetics (ecological, healthy, intelligent and reasonable) taking into account the real needs of the skin, advocating the use of fewer ingredients to do better as shown by the current cosmetic trend called skinimalism, of frugality even, positive contributions for the skin and realistic promises. A response to this concern could then be plant extracts with multiple, multifunctional and complementary properties that are sufficient in themselves and therefore often do not require the addition of other active substances in cosmetic compositions.

[0003] Many people think that the surface of the skin on which cosmetics are applied is a dead and inert structure. In fact, this is not the case and the epidermis, including its surface horny layer, is the site of intense biochemical reactions where activators, inhibitors and inhibitor inhibitors ensure a balance and homeostasis that vary with the time of day, the seasons and age. Each of the epidermal cells and particularly the keratinocytes which are the predominant cells of the epidermis, presents a complex and fine metabolism leading to maturation and cellular differentiation under the control of the expression of the 36,000 genes and variants that compose them.

[0004] It is then easy to imagine the interest of being able to select and test plant substances on the expression of all of these genes in order to be able to select the most interesting extracts and develop the most effective extraction and production methods.

[0005] Among all the plants studied, Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense from the Fabaceae family are rich in trace elements which act as a food supplement to stimulate vitality and energy and are also used to increase lactation.

[0006] One of the aims of the invention is to provide a non-greasy composition for topical use.

[0007] Another aim of the invention is to propose the use of such a composition in the context of a cosmetic application.

[0008] It is from the observation that very often plants, and particularly their fruits, contain a significant portion of lipids which hinder the release of substances of interest and require the use of complex solvents other than simple water, hydroethanolic solvents or vegetable glycerin that the idea came to separate, beforehand, these lipids from the rest of the plant to be extracted.

[0009] It was by studying the properties of different water-soluble extracts of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense pulp, after defatting obtained after one or more successive cold pressings, on the expression of normal human keratinocyte genes that the applicant discovered, quite unexpectedly, that these Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense extracts had numerous properties of interest to healthy skin and therefore to cosmetics, particularly those concerned with minimalist formulas using multifunctional active ingredients since a given extract could have numerous properties that complement each other and reduce the use of numerous different active substances.

[0010] In the context of the invention, the term "water-soluble extract of a plant or part of a plant such as seeds" means the result of any extraction in a water-soluble solvent such as, for example, water itself, a hydroethanolic solution or glycerin and which can both serve as a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and therefore be formulated directly in order to produce a final cosmetic composition. These extracts can be formulated directly at around 0.1% to 5% or stored in the dry state after evaporation of the water or water plus ethanol or even as is in the case of a glycerin solvent.

[0011] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[0012] Consequently, a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition intended to be put in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and capillary systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochin-chinense of the Fabaceae family with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient making it possible both to combat aging and to improve epidermal firmness by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle as well as to restore and protect the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome as well as to reduce skin imperfections.

[0013] The applicant has in fact tested several aqueous or hydroethanolic extracts of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense on the complete genome of normal human keratinocytes and particularly by analysis of gene expression at the scale of the entire genome (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes following the extraction of the total transcribed Ribo-Nucleic Acids (RNA) followed by hybridization on DeoxyRibonucleic Acid (DNA) microchips. The principle of the DNA chip is based on the property that denatured DNA (single strand) has of spontaneously reforming its double helix when it is in the presence of a complementary strand (hybridization reaction).Since it is possible to attach up to a million probes to a biochip, DNA chips constitute a massive approach that the inventor used since they allow in a single experiment to have an estimate on the expression of several tens of thousands of genes.

[0014] Advantageously, said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during the extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

[0015] Also advantageously, said water-soluble extract of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense pulp from the Fabaceae family is produced from pulp previously defatted by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 3% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the pulp.

[0016] Even more advantageously, said water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

[0017] In the context of the invention, the term “from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids” means that the extract may comprise 0, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1% by mass of lipid relative to the mass of the extract.

[0018] Also within the scope of the invention, said extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

[0019] Advantageously, the composition is characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0020] In the context of the invention, the term "from 0.1% to 5% by mass" means that the composition may comprise 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 or 5% by mass of defatted extract relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0021] The effects of different plant extracts were thus investigated on gene expression in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK). More precisely, a complete transcriptome analysis (full transcriptome), i.e. all the genes expressed at a given time, was carried out using the Affymetrix GeneAtlas platform and the U219 “full human transcriptome” chip containing 36,000 so-called transcribed genes and variants.

[0022] This method, described in more detail in the examples below, makes it possible to choose, depending on the genes stimulated, i.e. whose expression is significantly increased, or inhibited, i.e. whose expression is significantly reduced, the most interesting plants for cosmetic use and which has made it possible to show the interest of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense from the Fabaceae family among other plants thus tested.

[0023] Then by taking the most interesting gene or genes, this method allows to select the optimum protocol(s) in order to obtain the best possible results. Here for Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family the Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3) gene was used to determine that it was the delipidated pulp then extracted in a simple solvent which made it possible to obtain an increase in expression of more than 568% in contact with normal human keratinocytes (NHEK). The relative expression of this IGFBP3 gene in control keratinocytes had a signal intensity of 38.09 while in keratinocytes contacted with the water-soluble extract of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense thus se The selected gene had a signal intensity of 978.01, which is a stimulation of the expression of this gene called fold change or modification rate, under experimental conditions of 25.67 times.

[0024] This made it possible to determine an optimum when the extraction was carried out in simple solvents such as water, hydroethanolic mixtures in which the ethanol is then recycled after complete evaporation or mixtures of water and glycerin, whose moisturizing properties for the skin are no longer in doubt.

[0025] These tests make it possible to demonstrate the interest of a cosmetic composition characterized in that it is made up of a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family produced by hulling the pod and then pulping it itself followed by sieving in order to separate the hard seed which will not be used.The pulp thus separated and sieved is dried and then defatted by one or more cold pressings, followed by further drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours and at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C in order to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then extraction or maceration in water with or without the addition of enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even maceration in glycerol alone and which can then be filtered or centrifuged and be stored and used directly in their respective solvent or dried again or freeze-dried or even zeodrated, having the effect after topical application on healthy skin of fighting against its aging and improving its epidermal firmness by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle as well as restoring and protecting its skin barrier function, its microbiota via its microbiome as well as reducing its skin imperfections.

[0026] The invention also relates to a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family, characterized in that it comprises water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and that it is prepared from 10% by weight of delipidated pulp then dried.

[0027] This makes it possible to obtain a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family, characterized in that it is intended to be applied to healthy skin to strengthen and promote the fight against aging and the improvement of epidermal firmness by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle as well as restoring and protecting the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome as well as reducing skin imperfections.

[0028] Or more precisely a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family for the treatment or the prevention of negative effects caused by under-expression of Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3), Desmoglein 1 (DSG1) and chromosome 10 open rEDGing frame 99 (10orf99) or, conversely, in the context of over-expression of genes promoting skin problems such as Structural maintenance of Chromosome 4 (SMC4).

[0029] Indeed, the level of expression of Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3) decreases in senescent cells or cells whose aging has been induced by H2O2 in comparison with young cells. Chromosome 10 open rEDGing frame 99 (10orf99) encodes peptides that enable the natural defense response against bacteria, particularly Gram-positive bacteria, as well as fungi. It regulates the pro-inflammatory response and contributes to the skin barrier and the proper functioning of the microbiota via its microbiome. Desmoglein is a desmosomal protein naturally encoded by the DSG1 gene, mainly expressed in the last layers of the epidermis and responsible for the adhesion properties of the famous desmosomes, a real snap button, ensuring the cell-cell junction essential to the skin's barrier effect and cohesion. It is also stimulated by this hydrophilic and water-soluble extract of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense pulp. Structural maintenance of Chromosome 4 (SMC4) is a gene encoding a protein that maintains the structure of chromosome 4, the overexpression of which is detrimental to cellular and tissue function: Oncogenesis. 2017 Mar;6(3):e301. doi:10.1038 / oncsis.2017.

[0030] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family intended to be used for the treatment or prevention of negative effects caused by under-expression of Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3), Desmoglein 1 (DSG1) and chromosome 10 open rEDGing frame 99 (10orf99) or, conversely, in the context of over-expression of genes promoting problems such as Structural maintenance of Chromosome 4 (SMC4) optimized by analysis of gene expression at the whole genome scale (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes and by hybridization on DNA microarrays.

[0031] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family intended to be used to induce inhibition of cell cycle proliferation / division / progression processes and a pro-differentiating effect by increasing the expression of genes involved in the maturation and dif epidermal differentiation (KLK7, SPRR1A, IB, 2A, ; 2D, CRABP2, TGM1, KRT10) knowing that: SPRR1A, IB, 2A and 2D correspond to a set of small proteins released during the maturation or differentiation of keratinocytes and which are then taken up by transglutaminases at the level of the horny layer to form the horny envelope surrounding the corneocytes giving them sufficient rigidity to allow good cohesion and therefore an essential barrier effect as well as a beautiful appearance on the surface of the skin, KRT 7 and 10 for Keratin 7 and Keratin 10 which are cytokeratins and intermediate filaments of the cytoskeleton playing an important role in maintaining the skin barrier, keratinization and epidermal comification. TGM 1 is the gene that produces Transglutaminase 1, an enzyme that allows the polymerization of the different molecules that form the envelope of corneocytes, such as keratins 7 and 10 and small SPRR-type proteins. The epidermis therefore sees its keratinocytes differentiate better, its horny envelopes form better, as a result of which the skin will be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and presenting a better quality barrier effect.

[0032] Advantageously, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition, for topical application to healthy skin with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient making it possible both to combat aging and to improve epidermal firmness, by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle, as well as to restore and protect the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome as well as to reduce skin imperfections.

[0033] For cosmetic use, we then see the interest of a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochin-chinense of the Fabaceae family, characterized in that the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / W), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, freeze-dried gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which may be presented in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

[0034] As well as a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family, said composition being in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a gel foaming lotion, jelly lotion, exfoliant, moisturizer, hydrating serum, wrinkle-improving serum, hydrating body milk, regenerating mask, regenerating cream, slimming body cream, anti-aging cream, regenerating serum, balm, mist, eye treatment, concentrate, or detoxifying mask.

[0035] All this therefore allows the cosmetic use of a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family, characterized in that the composition is applied to healthy skin, with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient making it possible both to better combat aging and to improve epidermal firmness by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle as well as to restore and protect the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome as well as to reduce skin imperfections.

[0036] Cosmetic care method for healthy skin to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient allowing both to better fight against aging and to improve epidermal firmness by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle as well as to restore and protect the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome as well as to reduce skin imperfections comprising the topical administration of a cosmetic composition made from a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense and optimized by the use of analysis of the expression of the whole genome (full genome) of human keratinocytes in culture (NHEK) in order to determine all of the properties as well as the optimization of their preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, the interest or not of prior roasting,the % of defatted and dried pulp or the nature of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.

[0037] Examples are given below without being limiting in order to illustrate the invention.

[0038] Example 1. Obtaining water-soluble extracts from delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense. Extracts of defatted pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family are made by hulling the pod and then depulping it, followed by sieving to separate the hard seed which will not be used. The pulp thus separated and sieved is then dried and defatted by one or more cold pressings, followed by further drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C to prevent the proliferation of microorganisms, then extraction or maceration in water with or without added of enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even a maceration in glycerol alone and which can then be filtered or centrifuged and be stored and used directly in their respective solvent or else dried again or even lyophilized or even zeodrated. They can therefore include water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and be prepared from 10% by weight of delipidated pulp then dried from the solvent used for extraction or maceration. These extracts can be tested directly or can be dried, dehydrated, lyophilized or zeodrated before testing. In the latter case, they are rehydrated or diluted with purified water as a solvent. We will call EDG (for Extract of Dialium Guineense or Dialium cochin-chinense) the extracts obtained and used in the following examples.

[0039] Example 2. Tests and example results. The biological model: Normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) at passage 3, cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25ng / ml and EP at 25ug plus gentamicin 25ug. The test medium consists of SFM keratinocytes with only gentamicin 25ug / ml. Experimental conditions: Normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) at passage 3, cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25ng / ml and EP at 25ug plus gentamicin 25ug. The test medium consists of SFM keratinocytes with only gentamicin 25ug / ml. Experimental conditions: Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours and then in test medium for another 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the test compounds and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All experimental conditions were carried out in triplicate (n=3). At the end of the incubation, the culture supernatants were removed and the cell lawns were rinsed with PBS solution. The plate was immediately frozen dry at -80°C. Prior to extraction, culture replicates were pooled. Total RNA from each sample was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the supplier's recommended protocol. RNA quantity and quality were assessed by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). The synthesis of biotinylated antisense RNA (aRNA) was carried out using the “GeneChip 3'IVT Express” kit (Affymetrix®). For each biotinylated RNA sample, an electrophoretic profile was performed (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent) before and after fragmentation. Hybridization of labeled and fragmented aRNAs to the Affymetrix® U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) was performed on the GeneAtlas™ fluidics Affymetrix® hybridization station for 20 hours at 45°C. The U219 chips were then scanned using the GeneAtlas™ Imaging station (Affymetrix® - resolution 2 pm) to generate signal intensity data as shown in the example results below. Signal intensity data were normalized using Expression Console software (Affymetrix®), based on the RMA algorithm. Quality control of the labeling and hybridization was then performed. Quality controls of the hybridization and labeling steps allowed validation of the experimental process Once normalized with Expression Console software, the data was transferred and formatted into a Microsoft Excel file. Calculations and filters have been added to these files to sort the data and make it easier to use. The fold change thresholds (value corresponding to the ratio: signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the treated sample / signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the control) were defined and applied to the normalized data. The following abbreviations are used in the analysis files: - UR: Upregulated - over-expression or stimulation of the probe or gene when the fold change is greater than 2, - DR: Downregulated - underexpression or inhibition of the probe or gene when the fold change is less than 0.5. Each analysis file consists of: - The signal intensity value (RE: Relative Expression) corresponding to each of the samples, - Calculations of “fold change” or modification rate for each comparison, - Information relating to each gene. Filters inserted into these files allow the selection of significantly modulated genes. The example of gene probes corresponding to the variation in expression of IGFBP3 (2 variants), DSG1, 10orf99 and SMC4, thus obtained with this methodology. With EDG for the Extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochin- chinense, the numbers indicated correspond to the signal intensity obtained for the control and for the EDG test: Signal intensity for Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3), probe 1: - Witness: 38.09 - EDG: 978.08 - Change rate: 25.67 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3), probe 2: - Witness: 32.66 - EDG: 747.58 - Change rate: 22.89 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Desmoglein 1 (DSG1): - Witness: 37.34 - EDG: 285.50 - Modification rate: 7.65 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Chromosome 10 open rEDGing frame 99 (10orf99): - Witness: 25.14 - EDG: 184.49 - Change rate: 7.34 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Structural maintenance of Chromosome 4 (SMC4): - Witness: 387.92 - EDG: 66.56 - Change rate: 0.17 - Regulation: DR

[0040] In the examples below, which give examples of how to make these compositions, without this list being exhaustive, the following abbreviations will be used: EDG for Extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium Guineense or Dialium cochinchinense

[0041] Example 3. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: Carboxypolymethylene or carboxylic polymer..................0.40 g Diethanolamine cetyl phosphate........................................1.50 g Octyl dodecanol............................................................5.50 g Cetyl alcohol..................................................................1.00 g Mineral oil.................................................................2.00 g Stearic acid.................................................................1.00 g Ethoxylated steryl alcohol (20 E)...........................................0.30 g Cetostearyl alcohol.................................................................1.80 g Preservative.................................................................0.15 g Solom Oil.................................................................0.50 g Triethanolamine..........................................................0.60 g Cyclomethicone............................................................12.00 g Dimethicone copolyol........................................................3.00 g Phenyl trimeticone................................................................2.00 g EDG................................................................................3.00 g Dextran.........................................................................1.00 g Glycerin............................................................................2.00 g Demineralized water qsp........................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use on 30 volunteers, the skin appeared smoothed within 2 hours of each application. At the end of the treatment, the number of wrinkles, their length and width were significantly reduced and the skin was more hydrated for 92% of users.

[0042] Example 4. According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - Acrylate C10-30........................................................0.50 g - Arginine............................................................0.001g - Glycerin..................................................................................1.00 g - EDG.........................................................................................0.20 g - Alcohol.................................................................2.00 g - Carbomer................................................................................0.126 g - EDTA..............................................................................................0.005 g - Preservative.......................................................................0.867 g - Solom oil.........................................................................0.5 g - Hydrogenated lecithin..................................................0.09 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................................0.20 g - TEA 99%...................................................................................0.62 g - Colorings...................................................................0.0002 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use for 30 volunteers aged 20 to 70, the skin appeared significantly more hydrated and more beautiful.

[0043] Example 5. H / W emulsion: - Liquid paraffin....................................................6 g - Liquid lanolin................................................................3 g - Arlacel 165................................................................6 g - Tween 60...................................................................2 g - Cetyl alcohol................................................................1.2 g - Stearic acid.................................................2.5 g - Arginine........................................................................0.5 g - Volatile silicone oil................................................................10 g - Triethanolamine................................................................0.1 g - Preservative.................................................................0.3 g - EDG..............................................................................5 g - Hyaluronic acid.......................................................0.5 g - Demineralized water qsp..................................................100 g After 4 weeks of twice-daily use by 30 volunteers aged 33 to 70, the skin appeared significantly more toned and firmer for 100% of users.

[0044] Example 6. Liposome Cream: - Cetyl alcohol..................................................................................4 g - B-sitosterol...................................................................................4 g - Dicetyl phosphate................................................................................0.5 g - Preservative............................................................................0.3 g - Carbopol 981 ...................................................................0.2 g - Triethanolamine.........................................................................0.2 g - Phospholipid........................................................................................0.05 g - EDG..................................................................................1.5 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After use on a panel of 30 volunteers aged 18 to 70, the skin emerged significantly hydrated during the 3 hours of the first application, softer and younger-looking for 65% of users after 4 weeks of use. daily.

[0045] Example 7. W / O emulsion: - Protégin.......................................................................19g - Glycerin..................................................................................3 g - Vaseline oil.................................................................................8 g - Mg sulfate.........................................................................0.5 g - EDG...................................................................................0.5 g - Hyaluronic acid.................................................................0.02 g - Preservative............................................................2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0046] Example 8. O / W gel emulsion. - Carbopol 981 .........................................................0.6 g - Ethyl alcohol.................................................................................15 g - Volatile silicone oil..................................................................3 g - Baobab oil.............................................................................7 g - Preservative............................................................0.3 g - Perfume...................................................................0.4 g - EDG..........................................................................................0.1 g - Triethanolamine........................................................................0.2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0047] Example 9. Glycerin concentrate - Glycerin......................................................................65 g -EDG..................................................................................................5 g - Arginine........................................................................................1 g - Hyaluronic acid................................................................1 g - Perfume.............................................................................0.4 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during the extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that said water-soluble extract of pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family is produced from pulp previously delipidated by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 3% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the pulp.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense of the Fabaceae family represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / W), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nano- emulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, freeze-dried gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which may be presented in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said composition being in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a gel lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizer, a moisturizer serum, a serum improving the appearance of wrinkles, a moisturizer body milk, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for topical application to healthy skin for the purpose of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient making it possible both to combat aging and to improve epidermal firmness, by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle, as well as to restore and protect the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome as well as to reduce skin imperfections.

10. Cosmetic care method for healthy skin to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient allowing both to better fight against aging and to improve epidermal firmness by slowing down the progression of the keratinocyte cell cycle as well as to restore and protect the skin barrier function and the microbiota via its microbiome as well as to reduce skin imperfections comprising the topical administration of a cosmetic composition made from a water-soluble extract of delipidated pulp of Dialium guineense or Dialium cochinchinense and optimized by the use of analysis of the expression of the whole genome (full genome) of human keratinocytes in culture in order to determine all of their properties as well as the optimization of their preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, the interest or not of prior roasting,the % of defatted and dried pulp or the nature of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by di-, reduction in the expression of other genes of interest. The epidermis therefore sees its keratinocytes differentiate better, its horny envelopes form better, as a result of which the skin will be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and presenting a better quality barrier effect.

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