Water-soluble extract of delipidated Adansonia digitata seeds and its cosmetic uses.

Abstract

Cosmetic use of delipidated seed extracts of Adansonia digitata from the Malvaceae family with multifunctional effects and intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body.

Description

Title of the invention: Water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia diktat a and its cosmetic uses.

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and capillary systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous, glycerin or hydroalcoholic extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient allowing the skin on the one hand to promote its good maturation and its good differentiation while allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface,more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging due to a better quality barrier effect and on the other hand to slow down cell proliferation thus giving more time to the epidermis to better build itself and improve its firmness.

[0002] We know that more and more cosmetics are trying to claim a more organic, more ecological, more natural mode of action with the new ISO 16128 standard, vegan and even slow cosmetics (ecological, healthy, intelligent and reasonable) taking into account the real needs of the skin, advocating the use of fewer ingredients to do better, even frugality, positive contributions for the skin and realistic promises. A response to this concern could then be plant extracts with multiple, multifunctional and complementary properties that are sufficient in themselves and therefore often do not require the addition of other active substances in cosmetic compositions.

[0003] Many people think that the surface of the skin on which cosmetics are applied is a dead and inert structure. In fact, this is not the case and the epidermis, including its surface horny layer, is the site of intense biochemical reactions where activators, inhibitors and inhibitor inhibitors ensure a balance and homeostasis that vary with the time of day, the seasons and age. Each of the epidermal cells and particularly the keratinocytes which are the predominant cells of the epidermis, presents a complex and fine metabolism leading to maturation and cellular differentiation under the control of the expression of the 36,000 genes and variants that compose them. It is possible to compare the epidermis located above the dermis, and of ecto- dermal like the brain, to a conveyor belt with keratinocytes dividing by cell proliferation only at its base then migrating towards the surface by gradually differentiating to give, at the very surface, the corneocytes forming the horny layer before normally desquamating imperceptibly. There is a physiological double game between the differentiation of these keratinocytes becoming corneocytes on the surface and the cell proliferation giving rise to these keratinocytes deep down, at the base of the epidermis. There is a balance, a homeostasis, between proliferation and differentiation. If the keratinocytes form too quickly by proliferation at the base of the epidermis as in the case of psoriasis, they will migrate too quickly towards the surface without having the time to differentiate well into corneocytes and thus unable to carry out all their functions, the important one being the barrier effect. On the contrary, when proliferation is slower, the cells have time to build themselves better, allowing skin that is more capable of carrying out its functions, more beautiful and firmer. This is what we will call epidermal firmness, which is different from deeper dermal firmness, and the importance of which is visible when you slowly run a finger over the surface of the skin on the back of the hand, for example, and you see that deep down everything is moving, while on the surface the epidermis plays its role of maintenance precisely through this epidermal firmness.

[0004] It is then easy to imagine the interest of being able to select and test plant substances on the expression of all of these genes in order to be able to select the most interesting extracts and develop the most effective extraction and production methods.

[0005] Among all the plants studied, VAdansonia digitata from the Malvaceae family has numerous and well-known properties when used as a whole and particularly its oil. Indeed, the oil from this plant is traditionally used in West Africa to restore softness and elasticity to the skin, relieve and soothe superficial burns, prevent stretch marks and is often applied to brittle, dry, dull or split nails or hair to restore their shine and beauty. This oil is produced from seeds surrounded by a dry pulp when ripe and contained in a fruit often called monkey bread.

[0006] However, the use of oil is not always appreciated by users in cosmetics. Therefore, there is a need to provide other non-lipid captive forms of Adansonia digitata for therapeutic but also cosmetic purposes.

[0007] One of the aims of the invention is to provide a non-greasy composition.

[0008] Another aim of the invention is to propose the use of such a composition in the context of a cosmetic application.

[0009] It is by studying the properties of different water-soluble extracts of seeds of Adansonia digitata after defatting obtained after one or more successive cold pressings, on the expression of the genes of normal human keratinocytes that the applicant discovered quite unexpectedly that these extracts of Adansonia digitata had numerous properties of interest to healthy skin and therefore to cosmetics, particularly those concerned with minimalist formulas using multifunctional active ingredients since a given extract could have numerous properties complementing each other and reducing the use of numerous different active substances.

[0010] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[0011] In the context of the invention, the term "water-soluble extract of a plant or part of a plant such as seeds" means the result of any extraction in a water-soluble solvent such as, for example, water itself, a hydroethanolic solution or glycerin and which can both serve as a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and therefore be formulated directly in order to produce a final cosmetic composition. These extracts can be formulated directly at around 0.1% to 5% or stored in the dry state after evaporation of the water or water plus ethanol or even as is in the case of a glycerin solvent.

[0012] It is from the observation that very often plants, and particularly their seeds, contain a significant portion of lipids which hinder the release of substances of interest and require the use of complex solvents other than simple water, hydroethanolic solvents or vegetable glycerin that the idea came to separate, beforehand, these lipids from the rest of the plant to be extracted.

[0013] Also these cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions are characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family is an extract originating from the seeds of one or more species or varieties of Baobab chosen from the group formed by Adansonia digitata, Adansonia digitata mountain variety, Adansonia digitata plains variety, Adansonia kilima, Adansonia grandidieri, Adansonia gregorii, Adansonia madagas-cariensis, Adansonia perrieri, Adansonia rubrostipa, Adansonia fony, Adansonia sua-rezensis and Adansonia za.

[0014] In the context of the invention and to facilitate its drafting, Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family will be understood to mean any of the species of this group formed by Adansonia digitata, Adansonia digitata mountain variety, Adansonia digitata plains variety, Adansonia kilima, Adansonia grandidieri, Adansonia gregorii, Adansonia madagascariensis, Adansonia perrieri, Adansonia rubrostipa, Adansonia fony, Adansonia suarezensis and Adansonia za.

[0015] Consequently, a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and capillary systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient allowing both to promote good maturation and good differentiation of the skin allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it has a better quality barrier effect,while also slowing down cell proliferation, thus giving the epidermis more time to build itself better and improve its firmness.

[0016] The applicant has in fact tested several aqueous, glycerinated or hydroethanolic extracts of Adansonia digitata on the complete genome of normal human keratinocytes and particularly by analysis of gene expression at the scale of the entire genome (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes following the extraction of the total transcribed RiboNucleic Acids (RNA) followed by hybridization on DeoxyRibonucleic Acid (DNA) microchips. The principle of the DNA chip is based on the property that denatured DNA (single strand) has of spontaneously reforming its double helix when it is in the presence of a complementary strand (hybridization reaction). Since it is possible to attach up to a million probes to a biochip, DNA chips constitute a massive approach that the inventor used since they allow in a single experiment to have an estimate on the expression of several tens of thousands of genes.

[0017] Advantageously, said pharmaceutically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during the extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

[0018] Also advantageously, said water-soluble extract of Adansonia digitata seeds is produced from seeds previously defatted by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the seeds.

[0019] Even more advantageously, said water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

[0020] And therefore that said water-soluble extract of Adansonia digitata seeds is made from seeds previously defatted by cold pressing, from one to three times success- sively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the seeds so that in the end the extract comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

[0021] In the context of the invention, the term "from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids" means that the extract may comprise 0, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1% by mass of lipids relative to the mass of the extract.

[0022] Also within the scope of the invention, said extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

[0023] Advantageously, the composition is characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0024] In the context of the invention, the term "from 0.1% to 5% by mass" means that the composition may comprise 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 or 5% by mass of defatted extract relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0025] The effects of different plant extracts were thus investigated on gene expression in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK). More precisely, a complete transcriptome analysis (full transcriptome), i.e. all the genes expressed at a given time, was carried out using the Affymetrix GeneAtlas platform and the U219 “full human transcriptome” chip containing 36,000 so-called transcribed genes and variants.

[0026] This method, described in more detail in the examples below, makes it possible to choose, depending on the genes stimulated, i.e. whose expression is significantly increased, or inhibited, i.e. whose expression is significantly reduced, the most interesting plants for cosmetic use and which has made it possible to show the interest of Adansonia digitata from the Malvaceae family among other plants thus tested.

[0027] Then by taking the most interesting gene or genes, this method allows to select the optimum protocol(s) in order to obtain the best possible results. Here for Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family the gene of the Small Proline-Rich Protein 2D (SPRR2D) was used to determine that it was the delipidated seeds then extracted in a simple solvent which allowed to obtain an increase in the expression of this gene of more than 2553% in contact with normal human keratinocytes (NHEK). The relative expression of this SPRR2D gene in control keratinocytes had a signal intensity of 37.65 while in keratinocytes placed in contact with the water-soluble extract of Adansonia digitata thus selected had a signal intensity of 999.11, i.e. a stimulation of the expression of this gene called fold change or modification rate, under experimental conditions, of 26.54 times.

[0028] This made it possible to determine an optimum when the extraction was carried out in simple solvents such as water, hydroethanolic mixtures in which the ethanol is then recycled after complete evaporation or mixtures of water and glycerin, whose moisturizing properties for the skin are no longer in doubt.

[0029] These tests make it possible to demonstrate the interest of a cosmetic composition characterized in that it is made up of a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family produced by mechanical separation of the seeds from the fruits which are then ground and then cold-pressed several times successively, after or without prior roasting, followed again by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours and at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C in order to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then extraction or maceration in water with or without the addition of enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even maceration in glycerol alone and which can then be filtered or centrifuged and be stored and used directly in their respective solvent or dried again or freeze-dried or even zeodrated,having the effect of strengthening and promoting on the one hand the good maturation and the good differentiation of the skin allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it presents a better quality barrier effect and on the other hand by slowing down cellular proliferation thus giving more time to the epidermis to better build itself and improve its firmness.

[0030] The invention also relates to a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family, characterized in that it comprises water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and that it is prepared from 10% by weight of delipidated and then dried seeds.

[0031] This makes it possible to obtain a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family, characterized in that it is intended to be applied to healthy skin to strengthen and promote, on the one hand, good maturation and good differentiation of the skin, allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it has a better quality barrier effect, and on the other hand, slowing down cell proliferation, thus giving the epidermis more time to build itself up better and improve its firmness.

[0032] Or more precisely a composition as defined above, for its use for the treatment or prevention of negative effects caused by the slowing down of good keratinocyte maturation and differentiation, all linked to an under-expression of Small Proline Rich Proteins 2A and 2D (SPRR2A and 2D), Lipocalin 2 (LCN2), Suprabasin (SBSN) and Comeodesmosin (CDSN), Dermokine (DMKM) and Filaggrin (FLG) or even, conversely, in the context of the over-expression of genes promoting skin problems, cellular hyperproliferation, degradation of the extracellular matrix, such as Matrix Metallopeptidases 1 and 3 (MMP 1 and 3), Tenascin C (TNC), Interleukin 33 (IL33) and Stathmin-like3 (STMN3).

[0033] Indeed, Small Proline Rich Proteins are small proteins rich in proline and are naturally encoded by the SPRR2A and 2D genes. In the skin, they are precursors of the horny envelopes and participate in the development of the epidermis and its comification. Lipocalin-2 is a protein encoded by the LCN2 gene and is involved in skin homeostasis as well as in limiting bacterial growth and therefore plays a role in the skin barrier effect. Suprabasin is also a protein encoded by the SBSN gene, which plays an important role in the skin barrier and whose reduction is responsible for atopic dermatitis. Corneodesmosin (CDSN) is a protein specific to corneodesmosomes responsible for the adhesion of corneocytes to each other and thus contributing to the barrier effect on the surface of the skin and epidermal firmness. Dermokine is a glycoprotein encoded by the DMKM gene, the under-expression of which results in a breakdown of the epidermal barrier effect, the appearance of scales and wrinkles, as well as the fragility of the horny envelopes. Filaggrin (FLG) is synthesized in the form of profilaggrin which is then broken down into filaggrin subunits which associate at the end of the epidermal maturation process with intracorneocyte fibrous intermediate filaments, thus participating in the comification of corneocytes. Matrix metalloproteinases are peptidases encoded by MMP genes and are responsible for the more or less controlled degradation of extracellular matrices. In certain situations, limiting their production is beneficial. Tenascin C is a protein encoded by the TNC gene and plays a role in cell proliferation. Its activity is increased by MMPs. Reducing the expression of these two types of proteins, TNC and MMP, is very complementary when we want to protect the extracellular matrix and reduce cell proliferation in order to give the skin more time to build better. Interleukin 33 (IL33) is a cytokine that, when overexpressed following inflammation, also has cell proliferation-stimulating effects. Reducing its expression thus helps control cell division. Stathmin-3 is a protein encoded by the STMN3 gene that destabilizes the cytoskeleton, particularly tubulin, when overexpressed. Reducing its expression in healthy skin is undoubtedly beneficial. It must then be noted that all of these genes play a direct and indirect role in the barrier effect of the skin and clearly illustrate the maxim: The epidermis is a barrier on all fronts! The other effects relating to the reduction of cell proliferation also contribute to this effect because they allow the skin more time to build itself well, more time to better build this barrier effect allowing the skin to be more beautiful and firmer on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging.

[0034] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family intended to be used to induce stimulation of the expression of genes involved in the keratinocyte differentiation process (KLK7, KLK10, KRT1, SPRR1A, 2A, ; 2D, 2E, CDSN, FLG, IVL, KLK8, CRABP2, SCEL) knowing that: SPRR IA, 2A, 2D, 2E correspond to small proteins released during the maturation or differentiation of keratinocytes and which are then taken up by transglutaminases at the level of the horny layer to form the horny envelope surrounding the corneocytes giving them sufficient rigidity to allow good cohesion and therefore an essential barrier effect as well as a beautiful appearance on the surface of the skin, KRT1, KLK7, KLK8 and KLK10 for Keratin 1, 7, 8 and 10 are keratins and intermediate filaments of the cytoskeleton playing an important role in maintaining the functional skin barrier, IVL is the gene that produces Involucrin which serves as a primer for the attachment of other molecules of the horny envelope, FLG for Filaggrin is synthesized in the form of profilaggrin which is then broken down into filaggrin subunits which associate at the end of the epidermal maturation process with the intra-corneocyte fibrous intermediate filaments, thus participating in the comification of corneocytes. CDSN for Corneodesmosin is a protein specific to corneodesmosomes responsible for the adhesion of corneocytes to each other and thereby contributing to the barrier effect on the surface of the skin and epidermal firmness, CRABP2 for cellular retinoic acid-binding protein 2, Cellular Retinoic Acid Binding Protein 2, involved in epidermal maturation The SCEL gene encoding Sciellin, a precursor protein of the horny envelope and keratinocyte differentiation. The epidermis therefore sees its keratinocytes differentiate better, its horny envelopes form better, as a result of which the skin will be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and presenting a better quality barrier effect.

[0035] Advantageously, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition, for topical application to healthy skin with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient making it possible on the one hand to promote good maturation and good differentiation of the skin, also allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it has a better quality barrier effect and on the other hand to slow down cell proliferation, thus giving the epidermis more time to build itself up better and improve its firmness.

[0036] For cosmetic use, we then see the interest of compositions comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family, characterized in that the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / W), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, freeze-dried gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which can be presented in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

[0037] As well as a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family, wherein said composition is in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a gel lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizer, a moisturizer serum, a serum improving the appearance of wrinkles, a moisturizer body milk, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

[0038] All this therefore allows the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined above, for topical application to healthy skin with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient allowing the skin on the one hand to promote its good maturation and its good differentiation while allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and of aging due to a better quality barrier effect and on the other hand to slow down cell proliferation thus giving more time to the epidermis to better build itself and improve its firmness.

[0039] Cosmetic care method for healthy skin to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient allowing the skin to promote both its good maturation and its good differentiation, thus allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it has a better quality barrier effect while slowing down cell proliferation, thus giving the epidermis more time to build itself better and improve its firmness, comprising the topical administration of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata and optimized by the use of analysis of the expression of the whole genome (full genome) of human keratinocytes in culture (NHEK) in order to determine all of their properties as well as the optimization of their preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps,the interest or not of prior roasting, the % of defatted and dried seeds or the nature of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.

[0040] Examples are given below without being limiting in order to illustrate the invention.

[0041] Example 1. Obtaining delipidated water-soluble extracts from Adansonia digitata seeds. The extracts of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family are made by mechanical separation of the seeds from the fruits followed by one or more cold pressings of these seeds, after or without prior roasting, followed by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours and at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C in order to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then extraction or maceration in water with or without the addition of enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even maceration in glycerol alone and which can then be filtered or centrifuged and be stored and used directly in their respective solvent or dried again or freeze-dried or even zeodrated. They can therefore include water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and be prepared from 10% by weight of defatted seeds then dried from the solvent used for extraction or maceration. These extracts can be tested directly or can be dried, dehydrated, lyophilized or zeodrated before testing. In the latter cases they are rehydrated or diluted. with purified water acting as the solvent. We will call EAD (for Extract of Adansonia Digitata) the extracts obtained and used in the following examples.

[0042] Example 2. Tests and example results. The biological model: Normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) at passage 3, cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25ng / ml and EP at 25ug plus gentamicin 25ug. The test medium consists of SFM keratinocytes with only gentamicin 25ug / ml. Experimental conditions: Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours and then in test medium for another 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the test compounds and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All experimental conditions were carried out in triplicate (n=3). At the end of the incubation, the culture supernatants were removed and the cell lawns were rinsed with PBS solution. The plate was immediately frozen dry at -80°C. Prior to extraction, culture replicates were pooled. Total RNA from each sample was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the supplier's recommended protocol. RNA quantity and quality were assessed by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). The synthesis of biotinylated antisense RNA (aRNA) was carried out using the “GeneChip 3'IVT Express” kit (Affymetrix®). For each biotinylated RNA sample, an electrophoretic profile was performed (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent) before and after fragmentation. Hybridization of labeled and fragmented aRNAs to the Affymetrix® U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) was performed on the GeneAtlas™ fluidics Affymetrix® hybridization station for 20 hours at 45°C. The U219 chips were then scanned using the GeneAtlas™ Imaging station (Affymetrix® - resolution 2 pm) to generate signal intensity data as shown in the example results below. Signal intensity data were normalized using Expression Console software (Affymetrix®), based on the RMA algorithm. Quality control of the labeling and hybridization was then performed. Quality controls of the hybridization and labeling steps allowed validation of the experimental process. Once normalized with Expression Console software, the data was transferred and formatted into a Microsoft Excel file. Calculations and filters have been added to these files to sort the data and make it easier to use. The fold change thresholds (value corresponding to the ratio: signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the treated sample / signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the control) were defined and applied to the normalized data. The following abbreviations are used in the analysis files: - UR: Upregulated - over-expression or stimulation of the probe or gene when the fold change is greater than 2, - DR: Downregulated - underexpression or inhibition of the probe or gene when the fold change is less than 0.5. Each analysis file consists of: - The signal intensity value (RE: Relative Expression) corresponding to each of the samples, Calculations of fold change or rate of modification for each comparison, Information relating to each gene. Filters inserted into these files allow the selection of significantly modulated genes. The example of gene probes corresponding to the variation of expression of SPRR 2D and 2A, LCN2, SBSN, CDSN, DMKM, FLG, KRT1, IVL, CRABP2, SCEL, MMPI, MMP3, TNC, IL33, STMN3, thus obtained with this methodology and with EAD for the Extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia Digitata. The numbers indicated correspond to the intensity of the signal obtained for the control and for the EAD test: Intensity of the signals for the Small Protein rich in proline2A, SPRR2D: - Control: 37.65 -EAD: 999.11 - Change rate: 26.54 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Small Proline-Rich Protein 2D, SPRR2A: - Control: 27.01 - EAD: 376.48 - Change rate: 13.94 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Lipocalin2, LCN2: - Control: 23.42 - EAD: 212.16 - Change rate: 9.06 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Suprabasin, SBSN: - Witness: 147.82 -EAD: 913.81 - Modification rate: 6.18 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Comeodesmosine, CDSN: - Witness: 27.13 - EAD: 141.14 - Modification rate: 5.20 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Dermokine, DMKM: - Witness: 40.41 - EAD: 168.01 - Modification rate: 4.16 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Filaggrin, FLG: - Witness: 53.99 - EAD: 207.43 - Modification rate: 3.84 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Keratin 1, KRT1: - Witness: 140.72 -EAD: 513.01 - Modification rate: 3.65 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Involucrin, IVL: - Witness: 59.02 - EAD: 127.33 - Modification rate: 2.16 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for CRABP2: - Witness: 248.70 - EAD: 610.73 - Modification rate: 2.46 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Scielline, SCEL: - Witness: 38.18 - EAD: 87.49 - Modification rate: 2.29 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Metalloproteinase 1, MMPI: - Witness: 420.32 - EAD: 50.67 - Change rate: 0.12 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for Metalloproteinase 3, MMP3: - Witness: 290.23 - EAD: 22.65 - Change rate: 0.08 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for Tenascin C, TNC: - Witness: 175.50 - EAD: 39.05 - Change rate: 0.22 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for Interleukin 33, IL33: - Witness: 91.94 - EAD: 22.48 - Change rate: 0.24 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for Stathmin 3, STMN3: - Witness: 68.68 - EAD: 20.00 - Change rate: 0.29 - Regulation: DR

[0043] In the examples below, which give examples of how these compositions are produced, without this list being exhaustive, the following abbreviations will be used: EAD for Extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia Digitata.

[0044] Example 3. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: Carboxypolymethylene or carboxylic polymer..................0.40 g Diethanolamine cetyl phosphate............................................1.50 g Octyl dodecanol............................................................5.50g Cetyl alcohol.................................................................1.00 g Mineral oil....................................................................2.00 g Stearic acid.................................................................1.00 g Ethoxylated steryl alcohol (20 E).........................................0.30 g Cetostearyl alcohol.................................................................1.80 g Preservative.......................................................................0.15 g Baobab oil............................................................0.50 g Triethanolamine..........................................................0.60 g Cyclomethicone............................................................12.00 g Dimethicone copolyol........................................................3.00 g Phenyl trimeticone................................................................2.00 g EAD............................................................................3.00 g Dextran........................................................................1.00 g Glycerin..........................................................................2.00 g Demineralized water qsp........................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use on 25 volunteers, the skin appeared smoothed within 1 hour of each application. At the end of the treatment, the number of wrinkles, their length and width were significantly reduced and the skin was more hydrated and firmer for 92% of users.

[0045] Example 4. According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - Acrylate C10-30........................................................0.50 g - Arginine............................................................0.001g - Glycerin..................................................................................1.00 g - EAD..........................................................................................0.20 g - Alcohol........................................................................2.00 g - Carbomer................................................................................0.126 g - EDTA..............................................................................................0.005 g - Preservative.......................................................................0.867 g - Baobab oil.............................................................................0.5 g - Hydrogenated lecithin..................................................0.09 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................................0.20 g - TEA 99%...................................................................................0.62 g - Colorings........................................................................0.0002 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use for 35 volunteers aged 20 to 70, the skin appeared significantly more hydrated, firmer and more beautiful.

[0046] Example 5. H / W emulsion: - Liquid paraffin....................................................6 g - Liquid lanolin................................................................3 g - Arlacel 165................................................................6 g - Tween 60...................................................................2 g - Cetyl alcohol.................................................................1.2 g - Stearic acid....................................................2.5 g - Arginine........................................................................0.5 g - Volatile silicone oil................................................................10 g - Triethanolamine................................................................0.1 g - Preservative.................................................................0.3 g - EAD........................................................................5 g - Hyaluronic acid.......................................................0.5 g - Demineralized water qsp..................................................100 g After 4 weeks of twice-daily use by 30 volunteers aged 33 to 70, the skin appeared significantly more toned and firmer for 100% of users. readers

[0047] Example 6. Liposome Cream: - Cetyl alcohol.................................................................................4 g - B-sitosterol...................................................................................4 g - Dicetyl phosphate................................................................................0.5 g - Preservative............................................................................0.3 g - Carbopol 981 ...................................................................0.2 g - Triethanolamine.........................................................................0.2 g - Phospholipid.............................................................................0.05 g - EAD..................................................................................1.5g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After use on a panel of 30 volunteers aged 18 to 70, the skin emerged significantly hydrated during the 10 hours of the first application, softer, firmer and younger-looking for 65% of users after 4 weeks of daily use.

[0048] Example 7. W / O emulsion: - Protégin.......................................................................19g - Glycerin..................................................................................3 g - Vaseline oil.................................................................................8 g - Mg sulfate.............................................................................0.5 g - EAD............................................................................0.5 g - Hyaluronic acid.................................................................0.02 g - Preservative.................................................................2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0049] Example 8. O / W gel emulsion - Carbopol 981 ..............................................................0.6 g - Ethyl alcohol.................................................................................15 g - Volatile silicone oil..................................................................3 g - Baobab oil.............................................................................7 g - Preservative.................................................................0.3 g - Perfume..........................................................0.4 g - EAD..........................................................................................0.1 g - Triethanolamine........................................................................0.2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0050] Example 9. Glycerin concentrate -Glycerin.............................................................65 g -EAD..........................................................................................5 g - Arginine............................................................................1 g - Hyaluronic acid................................................ 1 g - Perfume........................................................0.4 g - Demineralized water qsp......................................................100 g

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during the extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

3. Cosmetic compositions according to claims 1 to 2 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family is an extract originating from the seeds of one or more species or varieties of Baobab chosen from the group formed by Adansonia digitata, Adansonia digitata mountain variety, Adansonia digitata plains variety, Adansonia kilima, Adansonia grandidieri, Adansonia gregorii, Adansonia madagas-cariensis, Adansonia perrieri, Adansonia rubrostipa, Adansonia fony, Adansonia suarezensis and Adansonia za.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that said water-soluble extract of seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family is produced from seeds previously defatted by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the seeds so that in the end the extract comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds of Adansonia digitata of the Malvaceae family represents from 0.1% to 5% in bulk compared to the total mass of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / W), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, freeze-dried gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which may be presented in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein said composition is in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a gel lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizer, a moisturizer serum, a wrinkle-improving serum, a moisturizer body milk, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for topical application to healthy skin with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient allowing the skin on the one hand to promote its good maturation and its good differentiation while allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging due to a better quality barrier effect and on the other hand to slow down cell proliferation thus giving more time to the epidermis to better build itself and improve its firmness.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for its use in reducing the expression of these two types of proteins, TNC and MMP, which are very complementary when it is desired to protect the extracellular matrix and reduce cell proliferation in order to give the skin more time to build itself up better, or even in the context of stimulating the expression of genes involved in the keratinocyte differentiation process (KLK7, KLK10, KRT1, SPRR1A, 2A, ; 2D, 2E, CDSN, FLG, IVL, KLK8, CRABP2, SCEL) knowing that SPRR IA, 2A, 2D, 2E correspond to small proteins released during the maturation or differentiation of keratinocytes and which are then taken up by transglutaminases at the level of the horny layer to form the horny envelope surrounding the corneocytes giving them sufficient rigidity to allow good cohesion and therefore an essential barrier effect as well as a beautiful appearance on the surface of the skin.

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