Water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds and / or calyces of Hibiscus sabdariffa and its cosmetic uses.

Abstract

Cosmetic use of extracts of seeds and / or delipidated calyces of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family with multifunctional effects and intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body.

Description

Title of the invention: Water-soluble extract of defatted seeds and / or calyxes of Hibiscus sabdanffa and its cosmetic uses.

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and capillary systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous, glycerin or hydroalcoholic extract of delipidated seeds and / or calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient allowing: to reduce localized fatty deposits, to stimulate the skin's natural antimicrobial defenses, its microbiota and its microbiome, to promote good maturation and good differentiation of the skin, allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it presents a better quality barrier effect, to activate the skin's overall response to oxidative stress and to promote a better response to xenobiotics.

[0002] By xenobiotic we mean the different categories of xenobiotics that the skin, the first barrier of our body, is capable of detoxifying and which include alcohol, medicines, drugs and endocrine disruptors as well as a very large number of products contained in the atmosphere or coming into contact with the skin surface such as pesticides, construction materials or furniture items and other industrial pollutants.

[0003] We know that more and more cosmetics are trying to claim a more organic, more ecological, more natural mode of action with the new ISO 16128 standard, vegan and even slow cosmetics (ecological, healthy, intelligent and reasonable) taking into account the real needs of the skin, advocating the use of fewer ingredients (skinimalism) to do better, even frugal, positive contributions for the skin and realistic promises. A response to this concern could then be plant extracts with multiple, multifunctional and complementary properties that are sufficient on their own and therefore often do not require the addition of other active substances in cosmetic compositions.

[0004] In the context of the invention, we will call multifunctional active ingredient or multi- extract functional an active ingredient or an extract having several different and complementary efficacies and this at several levels of the skin structure in order to make it possible to produce a cosmetic composition with the least possible extract and active ingredient.

[0005] Many people believe that the surface of the skin on which cosmetics are applied is a dead and inert structure. In fact, this is not the case and the epidermis, including its surface horny layer, is the site of intense biochemical reactions where activators, inhibitors and inhibitor inhibitors ensure a balance and homeostasis that vary with the time of day, the seasons and age. Each of the epidermal cells and particularly the keratinocytes which are the predominant cells of the epidermis, presents a complex and fine metabolism leading to maturation and cellular differentiation under the control of the expression of the 36,000 genes and variants that compose them. It is possible to compare the epidermis located above the dermis, and of ectodermal origin like the brain, to a conveyor belt with keratinocytes dividing by cell proliferation only at its base then migrating towards the surface by gradually differentiating to give the comeocytes all on the surface forming the horny layer before normally desquamating imperceptibly. During this migration, a barrier is established protecting the skin and the rest of the body from external aggressions and reducing the insensible loss of water.

[0006] It is then easy to imagine the interest of being able to select and test plant substances and extracts on the expression of all of these genes in order to be able to select the most interesting extracts and develop the most effective extraction and production methods.

[0007] Among all the plants studied, Hibiscus sabdariffa from the Malvaceae family has numerous and well-known properties when used as a whole and particularly its oil. Indeed, the oil from this plant is traditionally used in West Africa to restore softness and elasticity to the skin, relieve and soothe superficial burns and is often applied to brittle, dry, dull or split hair to restore its shine and beauty.

[0008] This oil is produced from seeds and / or calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family and its different varieties.

[0009] However, the use of oil is not always appreciated by users in cosmetics. Therefore, there is a need to provide other non-lipid captive forms of Hibiscus sabdariffa for therapeutic but also cosmetic purposes.

[0010] One of the aims of the invention is to provide a non-greasy composition.

[0011] Another aim of the invention is to propose the use of such a composition in the context of a cosmetic application.

[0012] In the context of the invention, the term “seed and / or calyx extract” will be understood to mean a extract made from seeds and / or calyxes or an extract made either exclusively from seeds or an extract made exclusively from calyxes. The calyxes of the varieties of Hibiscus sabdariffa, in question here, correspond to the set of sepals which become fleshy, a remarkable phenomenon from a botanical point of view, after the flower and seeds have separated from the plant. It is therefore important to distinguish between calyxes and flowers which are not equivalent from a botanical point of view.

[0013] It is from the observation that very often plants, and particularly their seeds, contain a significant portion of lipids which hinder the release of substances of interest and require the use of complex solvents other than simple water, hydroethanolic solvents or vegetable glycerin that the idea came to separate, beforehand, these lipids from the rest of the plant to be extracted in order to facilitate the extraction of the non-lipid components of these seeds and / or calyxes. Extraction is easier, yields are improved and certain compounds are present whereas they are not at all if this prior delipidation has not been undertaken.

[0014] It was by studying the properties of different water-soluble extracts of Hibiscus sabdariffa seeds after defatting obtained after one or more successive cold pressings, on the expression of the genes of normal human keratinocytes that the applicant discovered, quite unexpectedly, that these extracts of Hibiscus sabdariffa had numerous properties of interest to healthy skin and therefore to cosmetics, particularly those concerned with minimalist formulas using multifunctional active ingredients since a given extract could have numerous properties which complement each other and reduce the use of numerous different active substances.

[0015] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds and / or calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[0016] In the context of the invention, the term "water-soluble extract of a plant or part of a plant such as seeds" means the result of any extraction in a water-soluble solvent such as, for example, water itself, a hydroethanolic solution or glycerin and which can serve as a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and therefore be formulated directly in order to produce a final cosmetic composition. These extracts can be formulated directly at around 0.1% to 5% or stored in the dry state after evaporation of the water or water plus ethanol or even as is in the case of a glycerin solvent.

[0017] Also these cosmetic compositions are characterized in that said water-soluble extract of seeds and / or delipidated calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the family of Malvaceae is an extract from the seeds of one or more varieties of Hibiscus selected from the group consisting of Hibiscus sabdariffa white flower variety, Hibiscus sabdariffa variety vimto, Hibiscus sabdariffa variety koor red, Hibiscus sabdariffa variety CTL 92, Hibiscus sabdariffa Thai variety, Hibiscus sabdariffa variety sabdariffa, Hibiscus sabdariffa variety altissima.

[0018] In the context of the invention and to facilitate its drafting, Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family will therefore be understood to mean any of its different varieties, namely Hibiscus sabdariffa white flower variety, Hibiscus sabdariffa vimto variety, Hibiscus sabdariffa red koor variety, Hibiscus sabdariffa CTL 92 variety, Hibiscus sabdariffa Thai variety, Hibiscus sabdariffa sabdariffa variety, Hibiscus sabdariffa altissima variety.

[0019] Consequently, a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and capillary systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one water-soluble extract of seeds and / or delipidated calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient allowing both: to reduce localized fatty deposits, to stimulate the skin's natural antimicrobial defenses, its microbiota and its microbiome, to promote good maturation and good differentiation of the skin, allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it presents a better quality barrier effect, to activate the skin's overall response to oxidative stress and to promote a better response to xenobiotics.

[0020] The applicant has in fact tested several aqueous extracts with or without enzyme, or hydroethanolic extracts of Hibiscus sabdariffa on the complete genome of normal human keratinocytes and particularly by analysis of gene expression at the scale of the entire genome (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes following the extraction of the total transcribed RiboNucleic Acids (RNA) followed by hybridization on DeoxyRibonucleic Acid (DNA) microchips. The principle of the DNA chip is based on the property that denatured DNA (single strand) has of spontaneously reforming its double helix when it is in the presence of a complementary strand (hybridization reaction). Since it is possible to fix up to a million probes on a biochip, DNA chips thus constitute a massive approach that the inventor used since they allow in a single experiment to have an estimate on the expression of several tens of thousands of genes.

[0021] Advantageously, said pharmaceutically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during the extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

[0022] Cosmetic compositions according to claims 1 and 2 characterized in that the water-soluble extract of defatted seeds and / or calyces of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family is an extract originating from the seeds and / or calyces of one or more varieties of Hibiscus chosen from the group formed by Hibiscus sabdariffa white flower variety, Hibiscus sabdariffa variety vimto, Hibiscus sabdariffa variety koor red, Hibiscus sabdariffa variety CTL 92, Hibiscus sabdariffa Thai variety, Hibiscus sabdariffa variety sabdariffa, Hibiscus sabdariffa variety altissima.

[0023] Also advantageously, said water-soluble extract of defatted seeds and / or calyces of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family is produced from seeds and / or calyces previously defatted by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the seeds and / or calyces so that in the end the extract comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

[0024] In the context of the invention, the term "from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids" means that the extract may comprise 0, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1% by mass of lipid relative to the mass of the extract.

[0025] Also within the scope of the invention, said extract of delipidated seeds and / or calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

[0026] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition is characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds and / or calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0027] In the context of the invention, the term "from 0.1% to 5% by mass" means that the composition may comprise 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 or 5% by mass of defatted extract relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0028] The effects of different plant extracts were thus investigated on gene expression in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK). More precisely, a complete transcriptome analysis (full transcriptome), i.e. all the genes expressed at a given time, was carried out using the Affymetrix GeneAtlas platform and the U219 “full human transcriptome” chip containing 36,000 so-called transcribed genes and variants.

[0029] This method, described in more detail in the examples below, makes it possible to choose, depending on the genes stimulated, i.e. whose expression is significantly increased, or inhibited, i.e. whose expression is significantly reduced, the most interesting plants for cosmetic use and which has made it possible to show the interest of Hibiscus sabdariffa from the Malvaceae family among other plants thus tested.

[0030] Then by taking the most interesting gene or genes, this method allows to select the optimum protocol(s) in order to obtain the best possible results. Here for Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family the ANGPTL4 gene for ANGgioPoieTin Like 4 involved in lipid metabolism as an inhibitor of lipoprotein lipase and pancreatic lipase. Lipoprotein lipase is a key enzyme in the penetration of lipids into adipocytes in adipose tissue and is responsible for the localized fatty deposits that many cosmetics seek to reduce through topical application. This gene was used to determine that it was the delipidated seeds and / or calyxes extracted in a simple solvent that allowed to obtain an increase in expression of this gene of more than 1212% in contact with normal human keratinocytes (NHEK). The relative expression of this ANGPTL4 gene in control keratinocytes had a signal intensity of 30.25 while in keratinocytes put in contact with the water-soluble extract of Hibiscus sabdariffa thus selected had a signal intensity of 396.90, i.e. a stimulation of the expression of this gene called fold change or modification rate, under experimental conditions, of 13.12 times.

[0031] This made it possible to determine an optimum when the extraction was carried out in simple solvents such as water, hydroethanolic mixtures in which the ethanol is then recycled after complete evaporation or mixtures of water and glycerin, whose moisturizing properties for the skin are no longer in doubt. These tests make it possible to demonstrate the interest of a cosmetic composition characterized in that it is made up of a water-soluble extract of seeds and / or defatted calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family produced by mechanical separation of the seeds from the fruits which are then ground and then cold-pressed several times successively, after or without prior roasting, followed by further drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours and at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C in order to to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then extraction or maceration in water with or without added enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even maceration in glycerol alone and which can then be filtered or centrifuged and be stored and used directly in their respective solvent or dried again or freeze-dried or even zeodrated, having the effect of allowing, using a single multifunctional extract: to reduce localized fatty deposits, to stimulate the natural antimicrobial defenses of the skin, its microbiota and its microbiome, to promote good maturation and good differentiation of the skin allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it presents a better quality barrier effect, to activate the overall response of the skin to oxidative stress and to promote a better response to xenobiotics.

[0032] One way according to the invention to reduce localized excess weight, also called cellulite, using a single multifunctional extract is to activate the expression of the genes of Angiopoietin (ANGPTL4), Perilipin 2 (PLIN2), GO / G1 Switch (GOS2), Carnitine palmitoyl transferase (CPT1A); Indeed, ANGPTL4 inhibits lipoprotein lipase and pancreatic lipase, the latter promoting the storage of fatty acids in adipocytes, which causes so-called cellulite. PLIN2, perilipin or adipophilin ensures the maintenance of adipose tissue. GOS2 adds a circadian effect to fat storage and is highly present in subcutaneous adipose tissue. And CPT1A promotes lipid breakdown in mitochondria.

[0033] According to the invention, a way of stimulating the natural antimicrobial defenses of the skin, its microbiota and its microbiome, using a single multifunctional extract, is to activate the expression of antimicrobial peptides and their genes (S100A7, 8 9) and that of Defensin B1 (DEFB1). Indeed, the S100 proteins (S100A7, S100A8 and S100A9) as well as DEFB1 are antimicrobial proteins and peptides, both bacterial and fungal, ensuring the innate immune defense of the skin and effectively regulating the microbiota and its cutaneous microbiome.

[0034] According to the invention, a way of promoting, using a single multifunctional extract, the good maturation and the good differentiation of the skin, allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it presents a better quality barrier effect is to stimulate the expression of the genes of Claudin 4 (CLDN4), Occludin (OCLN), Small Proline Rich Proteins 2A (SPRR2A), Sciellin (SCEL), Epiregulin (EREG), SerpineB1 and B2 (SERPIN B1 and B2) and reduce the expression of Matrix Metalloproteinases 1 and 10 (MMP3, MMP10) and Chemokine 14 (CXCL14) genes. Indeed, CLDNA codes for Claudin4, an essential component of the tight junctions of the deep epidermis and which plays an important role in the barrier effect of the skin and the control of its insensible water loss. Likewise, OCLN codes for Occludin, also located in these tight junctions, ensuring their formation, maintenance and functions. PPRR2, EREG, Serpins G1 and G2 and SCEL participate in the terminal differentiation of the epidermis and allow the stratum corneum and the horny envelopes to globally finalize their barrier effect and their protection against attacks of all types. The reduction in the expression of matrix metaloproteinases such as MMP3 and MMP 10, which in certain situations destroy the extracellular matrix, and of CXCL14, a pro-inflammatory chemokine, contributes to maintaining this functional barrier effect in association with the antiproteinase effect of Serpins B1 and B2, which are activated elsewhere, as described above.

[0035] A way still according to the invention of activating the overall response of the skin to oxidative stress and of allowing it a better response to xenobiotics, using a single multifunctional extract, is to activate the signaling pathway known as Nrf2 which, when activated, plays a cytoprotective role in the face of oxidative stress and originating from certain exposures to xenobiotics. This cytoprotective signaling pathway is particularly activated by stimulation of the expression of the genes cytochrome P450 (CYP1B1), Aldo-ketoreductase 1 AKR1C1, superoxide dismutase 2 (SOD2) and Insulin like growth factor binding protein 3 (IGFBP3) playing together a cytoprotective role.

[0036] According to the invention, said water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds and / or calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family strongly reduces the expression of the WNT4 gene which inhibits hair regrowth and would make it an extract favorable to regrowth during the onset of baldness.

[0037] The invention also relates to a water-soluble extract of defatted seeds and / or calyces of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family, characterized in that it comprises water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and that it is prepared from 10% by weight of defatted and then dried seeds and / or calyces.

[0038] Which makes it possible to obtain a water-soluble extract of seeds and / or delipidated calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family, characterized in that it is intended to be applied to healthy skin to strengthen and promote on the one hand the reduction localized fatty deposits and on the other hand: stimulate the skin's natural antimicrobial defenses, its microbiota and its microbiome, promote its good maturation and good differentiation of the skin allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it presents a better quality barrier effect, activate the skin's overall response to oxidative stress and promote a better response to xenobiotics.

[0039] Or, a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds and / or calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family for the treatment or prevention of the negative effects caused by xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body often requiring their detoxification, oxidative and cellular stress, microorganisms, their microbiotas and their microbiome, localized adipose overload, oxygenated free radicals and the slowing down of its proper maturation and good keratinocyte differentiation, all linked to an under-expression of Angiopoietin (ANGPTL4), Perilipin 2 (PLIN2), GO / G1 Switch (GOS2), Carnitine palmitoyl transferase (CPT1A), antimicrobial peptides (S100A7, 8 and 9) of DefensinB1 (DEFB1), Claudin 4 (CLDN4), Occludin (OCLN), Small Proline Rich Protein 2A (SPRR2A), scielline (SCEL), Epiregulin (EREG), SerpineB1 and B2 (SERPIN B1 and B2), cytochrome P450 (CYP1B1),of Aldo-ketoreductase 1 AKR1C1, superoxide dismutase 2 (SOD2) and Insulin like growth factor binding protein 3 (IGFBP3) or, on the contrary, in the context of the over-expression of genes promoting skin problems, the onset of baldness, cellular hyperproliferation following UV irradiation or its inflammation, such as Matrix Metalloproteinases 1 and 10 (MMP3, MMP 10), Chemokine 14 (CXCL14) and Wingless type 4 (WNT4).

[0040] Advantageously, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition, for topical application to healthy skin with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional extract making it possible to reduce localized fatty deposits, to stimulate its natural antimicrobial defenses, its microbiota and its microbiome, to promote its good maturation and its good differentiation, thus allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it has a better quality barrier effect, to activate the overall response of the skin to oxidative stress and to promote a better response to xenobiotics.

[0041] For cosmetic use, we can see the advantage of a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of seeds and / or delipidated calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa from the Malvaceae family, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / W), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, freeze-dried gel or emulsion or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which may be presented in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

[0042] As well as a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds and / or calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family, characterized in that it is in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a gel lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a moisturizing serum, a serum improving the appearance of wrinkles, a moisturizing body milk, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

[0043] Cosmetic care method for healthy skin to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient allowing at the same time to reduce localized fatty deposits, to stimulate the natural antimicrobial defenses of the skin, its microbiota and its microbiome, to promote its good maturation and its good differentiation of the skin allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it presents a better quality barrier effect,to activate the overall response of the skin to oxidative stress and to promote a better response to xenobiotics comprising the topical administration of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of seeds and / or delipidated calyces of Hibiscus sabdariffa optimized by the use of the analysis of the expression of the whole genome (full genome) of cultured human keratinocytes (NHEK) in order to determine all of their properties as well as the optimization of their preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration stages, the interest or not of prior roasting, the % of seeds and / or delipidated and dried calyces or the nature of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.

[0044] Examples are then given without being limiting in order to illustrate the invention with two different extraction situations, the first in examples 1 and 2 with just water as solvent and the second in examples 3 and 4 where 5% of enzymes were added to the water serving as solvent.

[0045] Example 1. Obtaining delipidated water-soluble extracts of seeds and / or calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa in a pure water solvent. Extracts of seeds and / or defatted calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family are made by mechanical separation of the seeds from the fruits followed by drying for at least 1 day and then by one or more cold pressings of these seeds, after or without prior roasting, followed by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours and at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C in order to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then extraction or maceration in water or dried again or freeze-dried or even zeodrated. It therefore includes pure water and is prepared from 10% by weight of defatted and then dried seeds and / or calyxes. These extracts can be tested directly or can be dried, dehydrated, lyophilized or zeodrated before testing. In the latter case, they are rehydrated or diluted with purified water as a solvent. We will call EHS (for Extract of Hibiscus Sabdariffa) the extracts obtained and used in the following examples.

[0046] Example 2. Tests and example results. The biological model: Normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) at passage 3, cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25ng / ml and EP at 25ug plus gentamicin 25ug. The test medium consists of SFM keratinocytes with only gentamicin 25ug / ml. Experimental conditions: Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours and then in test medium for another 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the test compounds and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All experimental conditions were carried out in triplicate (n=3). At the end of the incubation, the culture supernatants were removed and the cell lawns were rinsed with PBS solution. The plate was immediately frozen dry at -80°C. Prior to extraction, culture replicates were pooled. Total RNA from each sample was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the supplier's recommended protocol. RNA quantity and quality were assessed by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). The synthesis of biotinylated antisense RNA (aRNA) was carried out using the “GeneChip 3'IVT Express” kit (Affymetrix®). For each biotinylated RNA sample, an electrophoretic profile was performed (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent) before and after fragmentation. Hybridization of labeled and fragmented aRNAs to the Affymetrix® U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) was performed on the GeneAtlas™ fluidics Affymetrix® hybridization station for 20 hours at 45°C. The U219 chips were then scanned using the GeneAtlas™ Imaging station (Affymetrix® - resolution 2 pm) to generate signal intensity data as shown in the example results below. Signal intensity data were normalized using Expression Console software (Affymetrix®), based on the RMA algorithm. Quality control of the labeling and hybridization was then performed. Quality controls of the hybridization and labeling steps allowed validation of the experimental process Once normalized with Expression Console software, the data was transferred and formatted into a Microsoft Excel file. Calculations and filters have been added to these files to sort the data and make it easier to use. The fold change thresholds (value corresponding to the ratio: signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the treated sample / signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the control) were defined and applied to the normalized data. The following abbreviations are used in the analysis files: - UR: Upregulated - over-expression or stimulation of the probe or gene when the fold change is greater than 2, - DR: Downregulated - underexpression or inhibition of the probe or gene when the fold change is less than 0.5. Each analysis file consists of: - The signal intensity value (RE: Relative Expression) corresponding to each of the samples, - Calculations of “fold change” or modification rate for each comparison, - Information relating to each gene. Filters inserted into these files allow the selection of significantly modulated genes. The example of gene probes corresponding to the variation in expression of ANGPTL4, CLDN4, PLIN2, S100A7, OCLN, SERPIN B2, IGFBP3, GOS2, EREG, CPT1A, DEFB1, SCEL and MMP3, CXCL14, WNT4 thus obtained with this methodology and with EHS for the Extract of seeds and / or delipidated calyxes of Hibiscus Sabdariffa, the numbers indicated correspond to the intensity of the signal obtained for the control and for the EHS test: Signal intensity for Angiopoietin 4 (ANGPTL4): - Witness: 30.65 - EHS: 396.90 - Modification rate: 13.12 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Claudine 4 (CLDN4): - Witness: 42.57 - EHS: 387.44 - Modification rate: 9.10 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Perilipin 2 (PLIN2): - Witness: 85.98 - EHS: 475.20 - Modification rate: 5.53 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Calcium Binding Protein A7 (S100A7): - Witness: 33.99 - EHS: 133.36 - Modification rate: 4.17 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Occludin (OCLN): - Witness: 86.51 - EHS: 320.06 - Modification rate: 3.70 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Serine protease B2 (Serpin B2): - Witness: 417.19 - EHS: 856.55 - Modification rate: 2.05 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3): - Control: 40.00 -EHS: 119.06 - Modification rate: 2.98 - Regulation: UR Signal strengths for GO / G1 Switch (GOS2): - Witness: 20.00 - EHS: 56.77 - Change rate: 2.84

[0047] - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Epiregulin (EREG): - Witness: 167.00 -EHS: 451.53 - Modification rate: 2.70 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Carnitine palmitoyl transferase (CPT1A): - Witness: 351.39 - EHS: 887.17 - Modification rate: 2.52 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Defensin (DEFB1): - Witness: 42.76 - EHS: 89.76 - Modification rate: 2.10 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Scielline (SCEL): - Witness: 65.00 -EHS: 118.91 - Modification rate: 1.83 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Metalloproteinase 3, MMP3: - Witness: 290.23 - EHS: 37.05 - Change rate: 0.13 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for Chemokine 14 (CXCL14): - Witness: 2113.61 - EHS: 356.24 - Change rate: 0.17 - Regulation: DR Signal strength for Wingless type 4 (WNT4): - Witness: 99.42 - EHS: 27.09 - Change rate: 0.27 - Regulation: DR Example 3. Obtaining delipidated water-soluble extracts of seeds and / or calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa in a water solvent containing 5% enzymes Extracts of seeds and / or defatted calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family are made by mechanical separation of the seeds from the fruits followed by drying for at least 1 day and then by one or more cold pressings of these seeds, after or without prior roasting, followed by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours and at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C in order to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then extraction or maceration in water with enzymes, or dried again or freeze-dried or even zeodrated. It therefore comprises water with 5% enzymes and is prepared from 10% by weight of defatted and then dried seeds and / or calyxes. These extracts can be tested directly or can be dried, dehydrated, lyophilized or zeodrated before testing. In the latter case, they are rehydrated or diluted with purified water as a solvent. A control was also prepared containing water and 5% of these same enzymes to serve as a control (control E). We will call EHS (for Hibiscus Sabdariffa Extract) the extracts obtained and used in the following examples.

[0048] Example 4. Tests and example results. The biological model: Normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) at passage 3, cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25ng / ml and EP at 25ug plus gentamicin 25ug. The test medium consists of SFM keratinocytes with only gentamicin 25ug / ml. Experimental conditions: Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours and then in test medium for another 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the test compounds and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All experimental conditions were carried out in triplicate (n=3). At the end of the incubation, the culture supernatants were removed and the cell lawns were rinsed with PBS solution. The plate was immediately frozen dry at -80°C. Prior to extraction, culture replicates were pooled. Total RNA from each sample was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the supplier's recommended protocol. RNA quantity and quality were assessed by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). The synthesis of biotinylated antisense RNA (aRNA) was carried out using the “GeneChip 3'IVT Express” kit (Affymetrix®). For each biotinylated RNA sample, an electrophoretic profile was performed (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent) before and after fragmentation. Hybridization of labeled and fragmented aRNAs to the Affymetrix® U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) was performed on the GeneAtlas™ fluidics Affymetrix® hybridization station for 20 hours at 45°C. The U219 chips were then scanned using the GeneAtlas™ Imaging station (Affymetrix® - resolution 2 pm) to generate signal intensity data as shown in the example results below. Signal intensity data were normalized using Expression Console software (Affymetrix®), based on the RMA algorithm. Quality control of the labeling and hybridization was then performed. Quality controls of the hybridization and labeling steps allowed validation of the experimental process. Once normalized with Expression Console software, the data was transferred and formatted into a Microsoft Excel file. Calculations and filters have been added to these files to sort the data and make it easier to use. The fold change thresholds (value corresponding to the ratio: signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the treated sample / signal intensity value of the probes corresponding to the signals of the enzyme mixture alone serving as control, E controls) were defined and applied to the normalized data. The following abbreviations are used in the analysis files: - UR: Upregulated - over-expression or stimulation of the probe or gene when the fold change is greater than 2, - DR: Downregulated - underexpression or inhibition of the probe or gene when the fold change is less than 0.5. Each analysis file consists of: - The signal intensity value (RE: Relative Expression) corresponding to each of the samples, - Calculations of “fold change” or modification rate for each comparison, - Information relating to each gene. Filters inserted into these files allow the selection of significantly modulated genes. The example of gene probes corresponding to the variation in expression of CYP1B1, IGFBP3, AKR1C1, S100A8, SERPIN Blet B, SOD2, S100A8, SPRR2A, EREG and MMP 10, thus obtained with this methodology and with EHS for the Extract of delipidated seeds and / or calyxes of Hibiscus Sabdariffa, the numbers indicated correspond to the intensity of the signal obtained for the control E and for the EHS test: Signal intensity for Cytochrome P450 (CYP1B1): - Witness E: 40.00 - EHS: 484.65 - Modification rate: 12.12 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3): - Control E: 40.00 - EHS: 356.26 - Change rate: 6.41 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Aldo-ketoreductase 1 (AKR1C1): - Witness E: 214 - EHS: 1269 - Change rate: 5.94 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Small Proline-Rich Protein 2A (SPRR2A): - Witness E: 53.48 - EHS: 150.09 - Change rate: 2.81 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Calcium Binding Protein A8 (S100A8): - Witness E: 509.76 - EHS: 1556.79 - Change rate: 3.05 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Serine protease B1 (Serpin Bl): - Witness E: 70.21 - EHS: 237.73 - Change rate: 3.39 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Super Oxide Dismutase 2 (SOD2): - Witness E: 403.63 - EHS: 1268.52 - Change rate: 3.14 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Serine protease B2 (Serpin B2): - Witness E: 478.05 - EHS: 1018.98 - Change rate: 2.13 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Epiregulin (EREG): - Witness E: 186.51 - EHS: 322.23 - Modification rate: 1.73 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Matrix Metalloproteinase 10 (MMP 10): - Witness E: 139.71 -EHS: 41.71 - Modification rate: 0.30 - Regulation: DR

[0049] The presence of enzymes in the water of the extraction medium allows the genes of the Nrf2 signaling pathway to be expressed with for example the genes CYP1B1, AKR1C1 and SOD2, whereas extraction with pure water favors more the expression of genes of epidermal differentiation and its barrier effect such as CLDN4, OCLN, DEFBlet SCEL. The expression of metalloproteinases is partially inhibited in both situations.

[0050] In the examples below, which give examples of how these compositions are produced, without this list being exhaustive, the following abbreviations will be used: EHS for the extract of defatted seeds and / or calyxes of Hibiscus Sabdariffa and Hibiscus Oil for the oil of seeds and / or calyxes of the corresponding variety.

[0051] Examples. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: Carboxypolymethylene or carboxylic polymer..................0.40 g Diethanolamine cetyl phosphate............................................1.50 g Octyl dodecanol............................................................5.50g Cetyl alcohol.................................................................1.00 g Mineral oil....................................................................2.00 g Stearic acid.................................................................1.00 g Ethoxylated steryl alcohol (20 E).........................................0.30 g Cetostearyl alcohol.................................................................1.80 g Preservative.......................................................................0.15 Hibiscus Oil............................................................0.50 g Triethanolamine..........................................................0.60 g Cyclomethicone............................................................12.00 g Dimethicone copolyol........................................................3.00 g Phenyl trimeticone................................................................2.00 g EHS........................................................................3.00 g Dextran........................................................................1.00 g Glycerin..........................................................................2.00 g Demineralized water qsp........................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use on 25 volunteers, the skin appeared smoothed within 2 hours of each application. At the end of the treatment, the number of wrinkles, their length and width were significantly reduced and the skin was more hydrated, more beautiful and less stressed for 92% of users.

[0052] Example 6. According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - Acrylate C10-30........................................................0.50 g - Arginine............................................................0.001g - Glycerin..................................................................................1.00 g - EHS..........................................................................................0.20 g - Alcohol.................................................................2.00 g - Carbomer................................................................................0.126 g - EDTA..............................................................................................0.005 g - Preservative.......................................................................0.867 g - Hibiscus Oil.......................................................................0.5 g - Hydrogenated lecithin..................................................0.09 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................................0.20 g - TEA 99%...................................................................................0.62 g - Colorings........................................................................0.0002 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use for 20 volunteers aged 20 to 70, the facial skin appeared significantly more hydrated and appeared purified and more resistant to occasional infections and dehydration.

[0053] Example 7. H / W emulsion: - Liquid paraffin....................................................6 g - Liquid lanolin................................................................3 g - Arlacel 165................................................................6 g - Tween 60...................................................................2 g - Cetyl alcohol................................................................1.2 g - Stearic acid.................................................2.5 g - Arginine........................................................................0.5 g - Volatile silicone oil................................................................10 g - Triethanolamine................................................................0.1 g - Preservative.................................................................0.3 g - EHS........................................................................5 g - Hyaluronic acid.......................................................0.5 g - Demineralized water qsp..................................................100 g After 4 weeks of twice-daily use by 20 volunteers aged 33 to 50, the excess weight localized in the saddlebags was significant. tively reduced.

[0054] Example 8. Liposome Cream: -Cetyl alcohol..................................................................................4 g -B-sitosterol...................................................................................4 g -Dicetyl phosphate......................................................................0.5 g -Preservative.................................................................................0.3 g -Carbopol 981 ...................................................................0.2 g -Triethanolamine............................................................................0.2 g -Phospholipid.............................................................................0.05 g -EHS..................................................................................1.5 g -Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After use on a panel of 30 volunteers aged 18 to 70, the skin emerged significantly hydrated during the 3 hours of the first application, softer and younger-looking for 85% of users after 4 weeks of use. daily.

[0055] Example 9. W / O emulsion: - Protégin......................................................................19g - Glycerin..................................................................................3 g - Vaseline oil.................................................................................8 g - Mg sulfate.............................................................................0.5 g - EHS........................................................................0.5 g - Hyaluronic acid.................................................................0.02 g - Preservative............................................................2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0056] Example 10. O / W gel emulsion - Carbopol 981 ..............................................................0.6 g - Ethyl alcohol.................................................................................15 g - Volatile silicone oil..................................................................3 g - Hibiscus Oil.................................................................................7 g - Preservative.................................................................0.3 g - Perfume........................................................................0.4 g -EHS........................................................................................0.1g - Triethanolamine..............................................................................0.2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0057] Example 11. Glycerin concentrate - Glycerin................................................................65 g -EHS..........................................................................................5 g - Arginine............................................................................1 g - Hyaluronic acid................................................ 1 g - Perfume........................................................0.4 g - Demineralized water qsp......................................................100 g

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated seeds and / or calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during the extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

3. Cosmetic compositions according to claims 1 and 2 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of defatted seeds and / or calyces of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family is an extract originating from the seeds and / or calyces of one or more varieties of Hibiscus chosen from the group formed by Hibiscus sabdariffa white flower variety, Hibiscus sabdariffa variety vimto, Hibiscus sabdariffa variety koor red, Hibiscus sabdariffa variety CTL 92, Hibiscus sabdariffa Thai variety, Hibiscus sabdariffa variety sabdariffa, Hibiscus sabdariffa variety altissima.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said water-soluble extract of defatted seeds and / or calyces of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family is produced from seeds and / or calyces previously defatted by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the seeds and / or calyces so that in the end the extract comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said extract of delipidated seeds and / or calyxes of Hibiscus sabdariffa of the Malvaceae family has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that said water-soluble extract of seeds and / or calyxes defatted Hibiscus sabdariffa from the Malvaceae family represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass compared to the total mass of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / W), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, freeze-dried gel or emulsion or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which may be presented in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said composition being in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a gel lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizer, a moisturizer serum, a serum improving the appearance of wrinkles, a moisturizer body milk, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for topical application to healthy skin with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional extract making it possible to reduce localized fatty deposits, to stimulate its natural antimicrobial defenses, its microbiota and its microbiome, to promote its good maturation and its good differentiation, thus allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it has a better quality barrier effect, to activate the overall response of the skin to oxidative stress and to promote a better response to xenobiotics.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to promote, using a single multifunctional extract, the good maturation and the good differentiation of the skin, allowing it to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of external aggressions and aging because it presents a better quality barrier effect is to stimulate the expression of the genes of Claudin 4 (CLDN4), Occludin (OCLN), Small Proline Rich Proteins 2A (SPRR2A), of Sciellin (SCEL), GO / G1 Switch (GOS2), Epiregulin (EREG), SerpineBl and B2 (SERPIN B1 and B2) and reduce the expression of Matrix Metalloproteinases 1 and 10 (MMP3, MMP10) and Chemokine 14 (CXCL14) genes.

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