Extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii and its cosmetic uses.

Abstract

Cosmetic use of defatted almond extracts of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family presenting a multifunctional effect and intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body.

Description

Title of the invention: Extract of defatted almonds of Balanites ae-gyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii and its cosmetic uses.

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and capillary systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous, glycerin or hydroalcoholic extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites ae-gyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient allowing both to strengthen and promote the cohesion of the epidermal cells between them, thus improving the skin barrier effect, also preventing the effect of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation,to strengthen the skin's surface suppleness, to strengthen the skin's mechanoreceptors and its cytoskeleton, to reduce the spread of potentially damaged skin cells, to protect skin and hair stem cells, thus promoting their regrowth, to limit the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, reinforcing the natural guardian effect of the genome and the homeostasis of the skin, also allowing the recycling of degraded skin molecules, to regulate the senescence of epidermal cells and the chronic inflammation of the skin that gradually sets in during aging.

[0002] We know that more and more cosmetics are trying to claim a more organic, more ecological, more natural mode of action with the new ISO 16128 standard, vegan and even slow cosmetics (ecological, healthy, intelligent and reasonable) taking into account the real needs of the skin, advocating the use of fewer ingredients (skinimalism) to do better, even frugal, positive contributions for the skin and realistic promises. A response to this concern could then be plant extracts with multiple, multifunctional and complementary properties that are sufficient on their own and therefore do not require the addition of other active substances in cosmetic compositions.

[0003] Many people think that the surface of the skin on which cosmetics are applied is a dead and inert structure. In fact, this is not the case and the epidermis, including its surface horny layer, is the site of intense biochemical reactions where activators, inhibitors and inhibitor inhibitors ensure balance and homogeneity. meostasis varies with the time of day, seasons and age. Each of the epidermal cells and particularly the keratinocytes which are the predominant cells of the epidermis, presents a complex and fine metabolism leading to maturation and cellular differentiation under the control of the expression of the 36,000 genes and variants which compose them.

[0004] It is then easy to imagine the interest of being able to select and test plant substances on the expression of all of these genes in order to be able to select the most interesting extracts and develop the most effective extraction and production methods.

[0005] Among all the plants studied, Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii from the Meliaceae family have numerous and well-known properties when used as a whole and particularly its oil. Indeed, Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii oil, called Soump oil in Senegal, is a medicinal oil rich in properties, used for a variety of external treatments. It has, among other things, anti-inflammatory, antiviral and antimicrobial actions and is used for the skin and hair.

[0006] However, the use of oil is not always appreciated by users in cosmetics. Therefore, there is a need to provide other captive non-lipid forms of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii for therapeutic but also cosmetic purposes.

[0007] One of the aims of the invention is to provide a non-greasy composition.

[0008] Another aim of the invention is to propose the use of such a composition in the context of a cosmetic application.

[0009] In the context of the invention, the term "water-soluble extract of a plant or part of a plant such as almonds" means the result of any extraction in a water-soluble solvent such as, for example, water itself, a hydroethanolic solution or glycerin and which can both serve as a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and therefore be formulated directly in order to produce a final cosmetic composition. These extracts can be formulated directly at around 0.1% to 5% or stored in the dry state after evaporation of the water or water plus ethanol or even as is in the case of a glycerin solvent.

[0010] It is from the observation that very often plants, and particularly their kernels, contain a significant portion of lipids which hinder the release of substances of interest and require the use of complex solvents other than simple water, hydroethanolic solvents or vegetable glycerin that the idea came to separate, beforehand, these lipids from the rest of the plant to be extracted.

[0011] It is by studying the properties of different aqueous extracts of almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii after defatting obtained after one or more successive cold pressings, on the expression of genes of normal human keratinocytes that the applicant discovered quite unexpectedly that these extracts of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii had numerous properties of interest to healthy skin and therefore to cosmetics, particularly those concerned with minimalist formulas using multifunctional active ingredients since a given extract could have numerous properties that complement each other and reduce the use of numerous different active substances.

[0012] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[0013] Consequently, a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and capillary systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient allowing both to strengthen and promote the cohesion of the epidermal cells between them, thus improving the skin barrier effect, also preventing the effect of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation,to strengthen the skin's surface suppleness, to strengthen the skin's mechanoreceptors and its cytoskeleton, to reduce the spread of potentially damaged skin cells, to protect skin and hair stem cells, thus promoting their regrowth, to limit the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, reinforcing the natural guardian effect of the genome and the homeostasis of the skin, also allowing the recycling of degraded skin molecules, to regulate the senescence of epidermal cells and the chronic inflammation of the skin that gradually sets in during aging.

[0014] The applicant has in fact tested several aqueous or hydroethanolic extracts of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family on the complete genome of normal human keratinocytes and particularly by analysis of gene expression at the scale of the entire genome (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes following the extraction of total transcribed RiboNucleic Acids (RNA) followed by hybridization on DeoxyRibonucleic Acid (DNA) microchips. The principle of the DNA chip is based on the property that denatured DNA (single strand) has of reforming spontaneously its double helix when it is in the presence of a complementary strand (hybridization reaction). Since it is possible to fix up to a million probes on a biochip, DNA chips thus constitute a massive approach that the inventor used since they allow in a single experiment to have an estimate on the expression of several tens of thousands of genes.

[0015] Advantageously, said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during the extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

[0016] Also advantageously, said water-soluble extract of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii almonds from the Zygophyllaceae family is produced from almonds previously defatted by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the almonds.

[0017] Even more advantageously, said water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

[0018] In the context of the invention, the term "from 0% to less than 1% by mass of lipids" means that the extract may comprise 0, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1% by mass of lipid relative to the mass of the extract.

[0019] Also within the scope of the invention, said extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

[0020] Advantageously, the composition is such that the water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0021] In the context of the invention, the term "from 0.1% to 5% by mass" means that the composition may comprise 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 or 5% by mass of defatted extract relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0022] The effects of different plant extracts were thus investigated on gene expression in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK). More precisely Specifically, a complete transcriptome analysis, i.e. all genes expressed at a given time, was carried out using the Affymetrix GeneAtlas platform and the U219 “full human transcriptome” chip containing 36,000 so-called transcribed genes and variants.

[0023] This method, described in more detail in the examples below, makes it possible to choose, depending on the genes stimulated, i.e. whose expression is significantly increased, or inhibited, i.e. whose expression is significantly reduced, the most interesting plants for cosmetic use and which has made it possible to show the interest of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii among other plants thus tested.

[0024] Then by taking the most interesting gene or genes, this method allows to select the optimum protocol(s) in order to obtain the best possible results. Here for Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii, the gene of the protein Paxillin (PXN) was used to determine that it was the de-lipidated almonds then extracted in a simple solvent which made it possible to obtain an increase in expression of more than 60% in contact with normal human keratinocytes (NHEK).The relative expression of this PXN gene in control keratinocytes had a signal intensity of 20.36 while in keratinocytes put in contact with the water-soluble extract of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii thus selected had a signal intensity of 32.58, i.e. a stimulation of the expression of this gene called fold change or modification rate, in experimental conditions, of more than 1.6 times (32.58), this stimulation of the expression of PXN remaining however in a very physiological domain.

[0025] This made it possible to determine an optimum when the extraction was carried out in simple solvents such as water, hydroethanolic mixtures in which the ethanol is then recycled after complete evaporation or mixtures of water and glycerin, whose moisturizing properties for the skin are no longer in doubt.

[0026] These tests make it possible to demonstrate the interest of a cosmetic composition characterized in that it is made up of a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygo-phyllaceae family produced by mechanical separation of the almonds from the seeds then by one or more cold pressings of the almonds, after or without prior roasting, followed by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours and at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C in order to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then extraction or maceration in water with or without the addition of enzymes, a hydroalcoholic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even maceration in glycerol alone and which can then be filtered or centrifuged and be stored and used directly in their respective solvent or dried again or freeze-dried or even zeodrated, having the effect, using a single multifunctional extract, of strengthening and promoting the cohesion of epidermal cells between them, thus improving the skin barrier effect, also preventing the effect of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation, strengthening the skin's surface suppleness, strengthening the skin's mechanoreceptors and its cytoskeleton, reducing the spread of potentially damaged skin cells, protecting skin and hair stem cells, thus promoting their regrowth, limiting the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, reinforcing the natural guardian effect of the genome and the skin's homeostasis, also allowing the recycling of degraded skin molecules, regulating the senescence of epidermal cells and chronic inflammation of the skin that gradually sets in during aging.

[0027] The invention also relates to a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygo-phyllaceae family, characterized in that it comprises water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and that it is prepared from 10% by weight of defatted then dried almonds.

[0028] Which makes it possible to obtain a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family characterized in that it is intended to be applied to healthy skin to strengthen and promote the cohesion of epidermal cells between them, thus improving the skin barrier effect, also preventing the effect of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation, strengthening skin suppleness on the surface, strengthening the skin's mechanoreceptors and its cytoskeleton, reducing the spread of possibly damaged skin cells, protecting skin and hair stem cells thus promoting their regrowth, limiting the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, reinforcing the natural guardian effect of the genome and the homeostasis of the skin,also allowing the recycling of degraded skin molecules, regulating the senescence of epidermal cells and chronic inflammation of the skin which gradually sets in during aging.

[0029] Or more precisely a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family for its use in the treatment or prevention of the reduction of the cohesion of epidermal cells between them, of the cutaneous barrier effect, of its homeostasis, of the protection against the effects of pollution and dehydration, of the regulation of desquamation, of the surface skin suppleness, of the functioning of the mechanoreceptors of the skin as well as of its cytoskeleton, of the increase in the propagation of possibly damaged skin cells linked to an underexpression of Paxillin (PXN), protein 53 (p 53) and Heparin-Binding EGF-like Growth Factor (HBEGF) of skin cells or even in the context of the overexpression of genes promoting skin problems, its senescence and chronic inflammation gradually setting in during aging, such as Nima related Kinase 2 (NEK2) and Insulin-like Growth Factor binding protein 5 (IGFBP5).

[0030] Here we mean by skin mechanoreceptor structures sensitive to mechanical deformations such as for example even a light massage. Mechanoreceptors are made up of several molecules organized around Praxillin forming a so-called focal adhesion complex and cytoskeleton components such as intracellular actin which through these focal adhesions is coupled with the extracellular matrix.

[0031] Indeed, Praxillin also allows the fixation, propagation and migration of cells as during epidermal differentiation ensuring the maturation of keratinocytes into corneocytes. Isn't it said that without their grips, the focal adhesions organized around Praxillin, the cells slip. Praxillin also plays a role, thanks to these focal adhesion structures, in the cohesion of epidermal cells between them, the skin barrier effect, protection against the effects of pollution and dehydration, the regulation of desquamation and the suppleness of the skin surface. Protein 53 (p53) regulates the fate of damaged cells by preventing them from spreading. Heparin-Binding EGF-like Growth Factor (HBEGF) promotes skin cell homeostasis and protects skin stem cells, including hair cells, thus promoting their regrowth, provides firming effects without the risk of fibrosis, and has prometanin-like effects. Nima Related Kinase 2 (NEK2), a centrosomal protein kinase, is increased in cancers, and much work is being done to find NEK2 inhibitors: Cell Cycle. 2016; 15(7): 895-907. doi: 10.1080 / 15384101.2016.1152430 Insulin-like Growth Factor binding protein 5 (IGF5) is capable of inducing senescence Mol Biol Cell. (2007) 18:4543-52. doi: 10.1091 / mbc. e07-03-0280. It is clear that preventing skin cells from expressing too much NEK2 and IFG5 is highly beneficial for maintaining good skin condition.

[0032] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family intended to be used for the treatment or prevention of the reduction of the cohesion of epidermal cells between them, of the skin barrier effect, of its homeostasis, of protection against the effects of pollution and of dehydration, regulation of desquamation, skin surface flexibility, functioning of skin mechanoreceptors and its cytoskeleton, increasing the spread of possibly damaged skin cells characterized in that the aqueous, hydroethanolic or hydroglycerin extracts are capable of improving the expression of Paxillin (PXN), protein 53 (p 53) and Heparin-Binding EGF-like Growth Factor (HBEGF) of skin cells and reducing those of Nima related Kinase 2 (NEK2) and Insulin-like Growth Factor binding protein 5 (IGF5) optimized by genome-wide gene expression analysis (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes and by DNA microarray hybridization.

[0033] Advantageously, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition, for topical application to healthy skin with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient making it possible to both strengthen and promote the cohesion of epidermal cells with each other, thus improving the skin barrier effect, also preventing the effect of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation, strengthening skin suppleness on the surface, strengthening the skin's mechanoreceptors and its cytoskeleton, reducing the spread of possibly damaged skin cells, protecting skin and hair stem cells, thus promoting their regrowth, limiting the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, strengthening the natural guardian effect of the genome and the homeostasis of the skin,also allowing the recycling of degraded skin molecules, regulating the senescence of epidermal cells and chronic inflammation of the skin which gradually sets in during aging.

[0034] For cosmetic use, we then see the interest of a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / W), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, freeze-dried gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which can be presented in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

[0035] As well as a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family, said composition is characterized in that it is in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a gel lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizer, a hydrating serum, a serum that improves the appearance of wrinkles, a hydrating body lotion, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

[0036] All this therefore allows the cosmetic use of a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family characterized in that the composition is applied to healthy skin to strengthen and promote the cohesion of the epidermal cells between them, thus improving the skin barrier effect, also preventing the effect of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation, strengthening the skin's surface suppleness, strengthening the skin's mechanoreceptors and its cytoskeleton, reducing the spread of possibly damaged skin cells, protecting the skin and hair stem cells thus promoting their regrowth, limiting the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, strengthening the natural guardian effect of the genome and the skin's homeostasis,also allowing the recycling of degraded skin molecules, regulating the senescence of epidermal cells and chronic inflammation of the skin which gradually sets in during aging.

[0037] Cosmetic care method for healthy skin to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient allowing both to strengthen and promote the cohesion of epidermal cells between them, thus improving the skin barrier effect, also preventing the effect of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation, strengthening the skin's surface suppleness, strengthening the skin's mechanoreceptors as well as its cytoskeleton, reducing the spread of possibly damaged skin cells, protecting skin and hair stem cells thus promoting their regrowth, limiting the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, strengthening the natural guardian effect of the genome and the skin's homeostasis, also allowing the recycling of degraded skin molecules,to regulate the senescence of epidermal cells and chronic inflammation of the skin that gradually sets in during aging, comprising the topical administration of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii and optimized by the use of analysis of the expression of the whole genome (full genome) of cultured human keratinocytes (NHEK) in order to determine all of their properties as well as the optimization of their preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration stages, the interest or not of prior roasting, the % of defatted and dried almonds or the nature of the final drying and characterized as well by an increase in the expression of certain, genes of interest than by reducing the expression of other genes of interest.

[0038] The invention further relates to the above-mentioned composition, for its use in the treatment or prevention of the reduction in the cohesion of epidermal cells between them, of the skin barrier effect, of its homeostasis, of protection against the effects of pollution and dehydration, of the regulation of desquamation, of the skin surface suppleness, of the functioning of the skin's mechanoreceptors as well as of its cytoskeleton, of the increase in the propagation of possibly damaged skin cells linked to an under-expression of Paxillin (PXN), of protein 53 (p 53) and of Heparin-Binding EGF-like Growth Factor (HBEGF) of the skin cells or even in the context of the over-expression of genes promoting skin problems, its senescence and the chronic inflammation gradually setting in during its aging,such as Nima related Kinase 2 (NEK2) and Insulin-like Growth Factor binding protein 5 (IGFBP5). ,

[0039] Examples are given below without being limiting in order to illustrate the invention.

[0040] Example 1. Obtaining defatted water-soluble extracts of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii almonds. Extracts of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family are made by mechanical separation of the almonds from the seeds and then by one or more cold pressings of the almonds, after or without prior roasting, followed by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours and at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C in order to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then extraction or maceration in water with or without the addition of enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even maceration in glycerol alone and can then be filtered or centrifuged and be stored and used directly in their respective solvent or dried again or freeze-dried or even zeodrated. They can therefore include water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and be prepared from 10% by weight of defatted almonds then dried from the solvent used for extraction or maceration. These extracts can be tested directly or can be dried, dehydrated, lyophilized or zeodrated before testing. In the latter case, they are rehydrated or diluted with purified water as a solvent. We will call EB (for Balanites Extract) the extracts obtained and used in the following examples.

[0041] Example 2. Tests and example results. The biological model: Normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) at passage 3, cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25ng / ml and EP at 25ug plus gentamicin 25ug. The test medium consists of SFM keratinocytes with only gentamicin 25ug / ml. Experimental conditions: Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours and then in test medium for another 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the test compounds and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All experimental conditions were carried out in triplicate (n=3). At the end of the incubation, the culture supernatants were removed and the cell lawns were rinsed with PBS solution. The plate was immediately frozen dry at -80°C. Prior to extraction, culture replicates were pooled. Total RNA from each sample was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the supplier's recommended protocol. RNA quantity and quality were assessed by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). The synthesis of biotinylated antisense RNA (aRNA) was carried out using the “GeneChip 3'IVT Express” kit (Affymetrix®). For each biotinylated RNA sample, an electrophoretic profile was performed (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent) before and after fragmentation. Hybridization of labeled and fragmented aRNAs to the Affymetrix® U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) was performed on the GeneAtlas™ fluidics Affymetrix® hybridization station for 20 hours at 45°C. The U219 chips were then scanned using the GeneAtlas™ Imaging station (Affymetrix® - resolution 2 pm) to generate signal intensity data as shown in the example results below. Signal intensity data were normalized using Expression Console software (Affymetrix®), based on the RMA algorithm. Quality control of the labeling and hybridization was then performed. Quality controls of the hybridization and labeling steps allowed validation of the experimental process Once normalized with Expression Console software, the data was transferred and formatted into a Microsoft Excel file. Calculations and filters have been added to these files to sort the data and make it easier to use. The “fold change” thresholds or modification rate (value corresponding to the ratio: signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the treated sample / signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the control) were defined and applied to the normalized data. The following abbreviations are used in the analysis files: - UR: Upregulated - over-expression or stimulation of the probe or gene when the fold change is greater than 2, - DR: Downregulated - underexpression or inhibition of the probe or gene when the fold change is less than 0.5. Each analysis file consists of: - The signal intensity value (RE: Relative Expression) corresponding to each of the samples, - Calculations of “fold change” or modification rate for each comparison, - Information relating to each gene. Filters inserted into these files allow the selection of significantly modulated genes. The example of gene probes corresponding to the variation in expression of PXN and IGFBP5 thus obtained with this methodology with EB for Extract of de-lipidated almonds of Balanites, the numbers indicated correspond to the intensity of the signal obtained for the control and for the EB test: Signal intensity for Praxillin (PXN), probe 1: - Witness: 20.36 - EB: 32.58 - Modification rate: 1.60 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Praxillin (PXN), probe 2: - Witness: 36.24 - EB: 53.13 - Modification rate: 1.47 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Insulin-like growth factor binding protein 5 (IGFBP5): - Witness: 135.73 - EB: 56.98 - Change rate: 0.42 - Regulation: DR

[0042] In the examples below, which give examples of how to make these compositions, without this list being exhaustive, the following abbreviations will be used: EB for the extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii.

[0043] Example 3. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - Acrylate C10-30........................................................0.50 g - Arginine............................................................0.001g - Glycerin..................................................................................1.00 g - EB..............................................................................................0.20 g - Alcohol.................................................................2.00 g - Carbomer................................................................................0.126 g - EDTA..............................................................................................0.005 g - Preservative.......................................................................0.867 g - Jojoba oil.............................................................................0.5 g - Hydrogenated lecithin..................................................0.09 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................................0.20 g - TEA 99%...................................................................................0.62 g - Dyes.........................................................................0.0002 After 4 weeks of use for 25 volunteers aged 20 to 70, the skin appeared significantly more hydrated.

[0044] Example 4. According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: Carboxypolymethylene or carboxylic polymer..................0.40 g Diethanolamine cetyl phosphate........................................1.50 g Octyl dodecanol............................................................5.50 g Cetyl alcohol..................................................................1.00 g Mineral oil.................................................................2.00 g Stearic acid.................................................................1.00 g Ethoxylated steryl alcohol (20 E)...........................................0.30 g Cetostearyl alcohol.................................................................1.80 g Preservative.................................................................0.15 g Baobab oil........................................................................0.50 g Triethanolamine..........................................................0.60 g Cyclomethicone............................................................12.00 g Dimethicone copolyol........................................................3.00 g Phenyl trimeticone................................................................2.00 g EB..................................................................................3.00 g Dextran.........................................................................1.00 g Glycerin............................................................................2.00 g Demineralized water qsp........................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use on 32 volunteers, the skin appeared smoothed after 2 hours. each application. At the end of treatment, the number of wrinkles, their length and width have significantly decreased and the skin is more hydrated for 95% of users readers.

[0045] Example 5. H / W emulsion: - Liquid paraffin....................................................6 g - Liquid lanolin................................................................3 g - Arlacel 165................................................................6 g - Tween 60...................................................................2 g - Cetyl alcohol................................................................1.2 g - Stearic acid.................................................2.5 g - Arginine........................................................................0.5 g - Volatile silicone oil................................................................10 g - Triethanolamine................................................................0.1g - Preservative.................................................................0.3 g - EB..............................................................................5 g - Hyaluronic acid.......................................................0.5 g - Demineralized water qsp..................................................100 g. After 4 weeks of twice-daily use by 25 volunteers aged 33 to 70, the skin appeared significantly more toned for 100% of users.

[0046] Example 6. Liposome Cream: . - Cetyl alcohol..................................................................................4 g - B-sitosterol...................................................................................4 g - Dicetyl phosphate................................................................................0.5 g - Preservative............................................................................0.3 g - Carbopol 981 ...................................................................0.2 g - Triethanolamine.........................................................................0.2 g - Phospholipid.........................................................................0.05 g -EB..................................................................................1.5 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After use on a panel of 32 volunteers aged 18 to 70, the skin appeared significantly hydrated during the 3 hours of the first application and firmer for 70% of users after 4 weeks of use.

[0047] Example 7. W / O emulsion: - Protégin.......................................................................19g - Glycerin..................................................................................3 g - Vaseline oil.................................................................................8 g - Mg sulfate.............................................................................0.5 g - EB..........................................................................0.5 g - Hyaluronic acid................................................................0.02 g - Preservative...............................................................2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0048] Example 8. O / W gel emulsion - Carbopol 981 ..................................................................0.6 g - Ethyl alcohol.................................................................................15 g - Volatile silicone oil..................................................................3 g - Jojoba oil.............................................................................7 g - Preservative............................................................0.3 g - Perfume...................................................................0.4 g -EB..................................................................................0.1 g - Triethanolamine........................................................................0.2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0049] Example 9. Glycerin concentrate - Glycerin.................................................................65 g -EB..................................................................................................5 g - Arginine..........................................................................................1 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................... 1 g - Perfume...................................................................0.4 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or African Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during the extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that said water-soluble extract of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii almonds from the Zygophyllaceae family is produced from almonds previously defatted by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the almonds.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said extract of delipidated almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, said water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii of the Zygophyllaceae family representing from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / W), a mid- croemulsion, twin phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, freeze-dried gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which may be presented in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said composition being in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a gel lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizer, a moisturizer serum, a serum improving the appearance of wrinkles, a moisturizer body milk, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for topical application to healthy skin for the purpose of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient making it possible to both strengthen and promote the cohesion of epidermal cells with each other, thus improving the skin barrier effect, also preventing the effect of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation, strengthening skin suppleness on the surface, strengthening the skin's mechanoreceptors and its cytoskeleton, reducing the spread of possibly damaged skin cells, protecting skin and hair stem cells, thus promoting their regrowth, limiting the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, strengthening the natural guardian effect of the genome and the homeostasis of the skin,also allowing the recycling of degraded skin molecules, regulating the senescence of epidermal cells and chronic inflammation of the skin which gradually sets in during aging.

10. Cosmetic care method for healthy skin to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient allowing both to strengthen and promote the cohesion of epidermal cells between them, thus improving the skin barrier effect, also preventing the effect of pollution and dehydration, slowing down and regulating desquamation, strengthening skin suppleness on the surface, strengthening the skin's mechanoreceptors and cytoskeleton, to reduce the spread of potentially damaged skin cells, to protect skin and hair stem cells, thus promoting their regrowth, to limit the appearance of signs of aging including skin insufficiency and fragility, to strengthen the natural guardian effect of the genome and the skin's homeostasis, also allowing the recycling of degraded skin molecules,to regulate the senescence of epidermal cells and chronic inflammation of the skin that gradually sets in during aging, comprising the topical administration of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of defatted almonds of Balanites aegyptiaca or Balanites roxburghii and optimized by the use of analysis of the expression of the entire genome (full genome) of human keratinocytes in culture in order to determine all of their properties as well as the optimization of their preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration stages, the interest or not of prior roasting, the % of defatted and dried almonds or the nature of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.,