Water-soluble extract of defatted Simmondsia chinensis beans and its cosmetic uses.

Abstract

Cosmetic use of extracts of beans or delipidated seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family with multifunctional effects and intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body.

Description

Title of the invention: Water-soluble extract of defatted beans of Simmondsia chinensis and its cosmetic uses.

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and capillary systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient allowing both to better protect the skin from xenobiotic molecules foreign to the body and to promote its detoxification,to also protect it against oxidative and cellular stress as well as free radicals and to promote its good maturation and good differentiation allowing the skin to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and presenting a better quality barrier effect.

[0002] We know that more and more cosmetics are trying to claim a more organic, more ecological, more natural mode of action with the new ISO 16128 standard, vegan and even slow cosmetics (ecological, healthy, intelligent and reasonable) taking into account the real needs of the skin, advocating the use of fewer ingredients to do better like the Skinimalism trend in full development, of frugality even, positive contributions for the skin and realistic promises. A response to this concern could then be plant extracts with multiple, multifunctional and complementary properties that are sufficient in themselves and therefore often do not require the addition of other active substances in cosmetic compositions.

[0003] In the context of the invention, a multifunctional active ingredient or multifunctional extract will be called an active ingredient or an extract having several different and complementary efficacies and this at several levels of the skin structure with the aim of making it possible to produce a cosmetic composition with the least possible extract and active ingredient.

[0004] Many people think that the surface of the skin on which cosmetics are applied is a dead and inert structure. In fact, this is not the case and the epidermis, including its surface horny layer, is the site of intense biochemical reactions where activators, inhibitors and inhibitor inhibitors ensure a balance and homeostasis that vary with the time of day, the seasons and age. Each of the Epidermal cells, and particularly keratinocytes, which are the predominant cells of the epidermis, exhibit a complex and fine metabolism leading to cellular maturation and differentiation under the control of the expression of the 36,000 genes and variants that compose them.

[0005] It is then easy to imagine the interest of being able to select and test plant substances on the expression of all of these genes in order to be able to select the most interesting extracts and develop the most effective extraction and production methods.

[0006] Among all the plants studied, Simmondsia chinensis from the Simmondsiaceae family has numerous and well-known properties when used as a whole, and particularly its oil, or more precisely its wax. Indeed, Jojoba oil is rich in properties and is used for a variety of external treatments for the skin and hair. It is also used for engine lubrication and for powering lamps for lighting.

[0007] This oil is produced from seeds contained in a fruit which are also called beans or almonds. However, we will use the term beans or seeds in this application because they are closer to reality than the term almond.

[0008] However, the use of oil is not always appreciated by users in cosmetics, especially when it is a wax that solidifies at 15°C. Therefore, there is a need to provide other captive non-lipid forms of Simmondsia chinensis for therapeutic but also cosmetic purposes.

[0009] One of the aims of the invention is to provide a non-greasy composition.

[0010] Another aim of the invention is to propose the use of such a composition in the context of a cosmetic application.

[0011] It is from the observation that very often plants, and particularly their seeds, contain a significant portion of lipids which hinder the release of substances of interest and require the use of complex solvents other than simple water, hydroethanolic solvents or vegetable glycerin that the idea came to separate, beforehand, these lipids from the rest of the plant to be extracted.

[0012] It was by studying the properties of different water-soluble extracts of beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis after defatting obtained after one or more successive cold pressings, on the expression of the genes of normal human keratinocytes that the applicant discovered, quite unexpectedly, that these extracts of Simmondsia chinensis had numerous properties of interest to healthy skin and therefore to cosmetics, particularly those concerned with minimalist formulas using multifunctional active ingredients since a given extract could have numerous properties which complement each other and reduce the use of numerous different active substances.

[0013] Consequently, a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and capillary systems, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors and characterized in that it comprises at least one water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient allowing both to reinforce and promote the protection of the skin from xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body and to promote its detoxification,to also protect it against oxidative and cellular stress as well as free radicals and to promote its good maturation and good differentiation.

[0014] By xenobiotic we mean the different categories of xenobiotics that the skin, the first barrier of our body, is capable of detoxifying and which include alcohol, medicines, drugs and endocrine disruptors as well as a very large number of products contained in the atmosphere or coming into contact with the skin surface such as pesticides, construction materials or furniture items and other industrial pollutants.

[0015] The applicant has in fact tested several aqueous or hydroethanolic extracts of Simmondsia chinensis on the complete genome of normal human keratinocytes and particularly by analysis of gene expression at the scale of the entire genome (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes following the extraction of the total transcribed RiboNucleic Acids (RNA) followed by hybridization on DeoxyRibonucleic Acid (DNA) microchips. The principle of the DNA chip is based on the property that denatured DNA (single strand) has of spontaneously reforming its double helix when it is in the presence of a complementary strand (hybridization reaction). Since it is possible to attach up to a million probes to a biochip, DNA chips constitute a massive approach that the inventor used since they allow in a single experiment to have an estimate on the expression of several tens of thousands of genes.

[0016] In the context of the invention, the term "water-soluble extract of a plant or part of a plant such as seeds or beans" means the result of any extraction in a water-soluble solvent such as, for example, water itself, a hydroethanolic solution or glycerin and which can both serve as a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and therefore be formulated directly in order to produce a final cosmetic composition. These extracts can be formulated directly at around 0.1% to 5% or stored in the dry state after evaporation of the water or water plus ethanol or even as is in the case of a glycerin solvent.

[0017] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[0018] Advantageously, said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during the extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

[0019] Also advantageously, said water-soluble extract of Simmondsia chinensis beans or seeds is produced from beans or seeds previously defatted by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the beans or seeds.

[0020] Even more advantageously, said water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

[0021] In the context of the invention, the term "from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids" means that the extract may comprise 0, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1% by mass of lipid relative to the mass of the extract.

[0022] Also within the scope of the invention, said extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

[0023] Advantageously, the composition is characterized in that said water-soluble extract of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0024] In the context of the invention, the term "from 0.1% to 5% by mass" means that the composition may comprise 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 or 5% by mass of defatted extract relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0025] The effects of different plant extracts were thus investigated on gene expression in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK). More precisely, a complete transcriptome analysis (full transcriptome), i.e. all the genes expressed at a given time, was carried out using the Affymetrix GeneAtlas platform and the U219 “full human transcriptome” chip containing 36,000 so-called transcribed genes and variants.

[0026] This method, described in more detail in the examples below, makes it possible to choose, depending on the genes stimulated, i.e. whose expression is significantly increased, or inhibited, i.e. whose expression is significantly reduced, the most interesting plants for cosmetic use and which has made it possible to show the interest of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family among other plants thus tested.

[0027] Then by taking the most interesting gene or genes, this method allows to select the optimum protocol(s) in order to obtain the best possible results. Here for Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family the cytochrome 450 gene (CYP1B1) was used to determine that it was the delipidated beans or seeds then extracted in a simple solvent which made it possible to obtain an increase in expression of more than 568% in contact with normal human keratinocytes (NHEK). The relative expression of this CYP1B1 gene in the control keratinocytes had a signal intensity of 20.00 while in the keratinocytes placed in contact with the water-soluble extract of Simmondsia chinensis thus selected had a signal intensity of 133.74, i.e. a stimulation of the expression of this gene called fold change or modification rate, under the experimental conditions, of 6.69 times.

[0028] This made it possible to determine an optimum when the extraction was carried out in simple solvents such as water, hydroethanolic mixtures in which the ethanol is then recycled after complete evaporation or mixtures of water and glycerin, whose moisturizing properties for the skin are no longer in doubt.

[0029] These tests make it possible to demonstrate the interest of a cosmetic composition characterized in that it is made up of a water-soluble extract of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family produced by mechanical separation of the beans or seeds from the fruits followed by drying for a minimum of 2 days and then by one or more cold pressings of these beans or seeds, after or without prior roasting, followed again by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours and at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C in order to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then extraction or maceration in water with or without the addition of enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or even maceration in glycerol alone and which can then be filtered or centrifuged and be stored and used directly in their respective solvent or dried again or freeze-dried or even zeodrate,having the effect of strengthening and promoting the protection of the skin from xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body and of promoting its detoxification, of also protecting it against oxidative and cellular stress as well as free radicals and of promoting its good maturation and good differentiation.

[0030] The invention also relates to a water-soluble extract of beans or seeds de- lipidated from Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family characterized in that it comprises water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and that it is prepared from 10% by weight of delipidated and then dried beans or seeds.

[0031] This makes it possible to obtain a water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family, characterized in that it is intended to be applied to healthy skin to strengthen and promote the protection of the skin from xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body and to promote its detoxification, to also protect it against oxidative and cellular stress as well as free radicals and to promote its good maturation and good differentiation, allowing the skin to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and presenting a better quality barrier effect.

[0032] Or more precisely a water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family for the treatment or prevention of the negative effects caused by xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body often requiring their detoxification, oxidative and cellular stress, oxygenated free radicals and the slowing down of its good maturation and its good keratinocyte differentiation, all linked to an under-expression of cytochromes P450 (CYP1B1), Small Proline Rich Proteins 2A and 2D (SPRR2A and 2D), Desmoglein 1 (DSG1) and Thioredoxin reductase (TXNRD1) or even, on the contrary, in the context of the over-expression of genes promoting skin problems, localized fibrosis or cellular hyperproliferation following UV irradiation or its inflammation, such as Connective tissue growth factor (CTGF) or the transcription factor Jun (c-Jun)

[0033] Indeed, cytochromes 450 and those produced naturally by the CYP1B1 gene have oxidoreductase activities supplemented by a capacity to metabolize toxins and reactive oxygen species as well as xenobiotic molecules, regulate cell proliferation and apoptosis in response to oxidative stress and play on the organization of collagen fibrils. They are found in the skin and in the hair bulb. They have an anti-pollution role and metabolize xenobiotics such as caffeine, toxins from cigarette smoke and barbecues. Small proline rich proteins are small proteins rich in proline and are naturally encoded by the SPRR2A and 2D genes. In the skin, they are precursors of the horny envelopes and participate in the development of the epidermis and its comification via transglutaminases such as TGM1, which is also stimulated by this hydrophilic and water-soluble extract of Jojoba beans or seeds. Desmoglein is a desmosomal protein naturally encoded by the DSG1 gene, mainly expressed in the last layers of the epidermis and responsible for the adhesion properties of the famous desmosomes, a real snap button, ensuring the cell-cell junction essential to the barrier effect of the skin and its cohesion. Thiredoxin is a reductase encoded by the TXNRD1 gene and also has oxidoreductase activity, oxidative detoxification and response to oxidative stress accelerating aging. Connective tissue growth factor (CTGF) is a matricellular protein encoded by the CTGF gene, and is associated with fibrosis and human aging. Numerous studies have attempted to find inhibitors of its activity. Arthritis Rheum. 62 (5): 1523-32. doi:10.1002 / art.27382. PMC 3866029. PMID 20213804 The transcription factor Jun (c-Jun) is a proto-oncogene whose UV irradiation induces a stimulation of its expression, and many teams are currently looking for inhibitors, The EMBO Journal. 18 (1): 188-97. doi: 10.1093 / emboj / 18.1.188. PMC 1171114. PMID 9878062.

[0034] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Shn-mondsiaceae family intended to be used for the treatment or prevention of the negative effects caused by xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body often requiring their detoxification, oxidative and cellular stress, oxygenated free radicals and the slowing down of its proper maturation and good keratinocyte differentiation, characterized in that the aqueous, hydroethanolic or hydroglycerin extracts are capable of improving the expression of cytochromes P450 (CYP1B1), Small Proline Rich Proteins 2A and 2D (SPRR2A and 2D),of Desmoglein 1 (DSG1) and Thioredoxin reductase (TXNRD1) and to reduce those of Connective tissue growth factor (CTGF) or the transcription factor Jun (c-Jun) optimized by genome-wide gene expression analysis (36,000 transcribed genes and variants) of normal human epidermal keratinocytes and by DNA microarray hybridization,

[0035] The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Shn-mondsiaceae family intended to be used to induce stimulation of the expression of genes involved in the response to oxidative and cellular stress (detoxification protein and anti-oxygenated free radicals (RLO)) as well as to allow an increase in the genes involved in keratinocyte differentiation (SPRR2A, 2D, KRT1, IVL, TGM1) knowing that: SPRR2A and 2D correspond to small proteins released during the maturation or differentiation of keratinocytes and which are then taken up by transglutaminases at level of the stratum corneum to form the horny envelope surrounding the corneocytes giving them sufficient rigidity to allow good cohesion and therefore an essential barrier effect as well as a beautiful appearance on the surface of the skin, KRT1 for Keratin 1 is a keratin and an intermediate filament of the cytoskeleton playing an important role in maintaining the skin barrier, IVL is the gene which produces Involucrin which serves as a primer for the fixation of the other molecules of the horny envelope, TGMl is the gene which produces Transglutaminase 1 enzyme allowing the polymerization of the different molecules which form the envelopes of the corneocytes (involucrin, keratin 1, small SPRR type proteins). The epidermis therefore sees its keratinocytes differentiate better, its horny envelopes form better, as a result of which the skin will be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and presenting a better quality barrier effect.

[0036] Advantageously, the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition, for topical application to healthy skin with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient making it possible both to better protect the skin from xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body and to promote its detoxification, to also protect it against oxidative and cellular stress as well as free radicals and to promote its good maturation and good differentiation allowing the skin to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and having a better quality barrier effect.

[0037] For cosmetic use, we then see the interest of a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / W), microemulsion, twin-phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, freeze-dried gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which may be presented in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

[0038] As well as a composition comprising a water-soluble extract of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family, characterized in that it is in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a gel lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizing cream, a moisturizing serum, a serum improving the appearance of wrinkles, a moisturizing body milk, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a face ... age, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask

[0039] All this therefore allows the cosmetic use of a water-soluble extract of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family, characterized in that the composition is applied to healthy skin, with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient allowing both to better protect the skin from xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body and to promote its detoxification, to also protect it against oxidative and cellular stress as well as free radicals and to promote its good maturation and good differentiation as a result of which the skin will be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and presenting a better quality barrier effect.

[0040] Cosmetic care method for healthy skin to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient allowing both to strengthen and promote the protection of the skin against xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body, to also promote its detoxification, to protect it against oxidative and cellular stress as well as free radicals and to promote its good maturation and its good differentiation comprising the topical administration of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis and optimized by the use of analysis of the expression of the whole genome (full genome) of human keratinocytes in culture (NHEK) in order to determine all of the properties as well as the optimization of their preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, the interest or not of a prior roasting,the % of defatted and dried beans or seeds or the nature of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.

[0041] Examples are given below without being limiting in order to illustrate the invention.

[0042] Example 1. Obtaining delipidated water-soluble extracts of beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis. Extracts of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family are made by mechanical separation of the beans or seeds from the fruits followed by drying for a minimum of 2 days and then by one or more cold pressings of these seeds or beans, after or without prior roasting, followed by drying in an oven for 1 to 5 hours and at a temperature between 50°C and 60°C in order to avoid the proliferation of microorganisms, then extraction or maceration in water with or without the addition of enzymes, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture or maceration in glycerol alone and which can then be filtered or centrifuged and be stored and used di directly in their respective solvent or dried again or freeze-dried or even zeodrated. They can therefore include water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture and be prepared from 10% by weight of beans or seeds defatted then dried from the solvent used for extraction or maceration. These extracts can be tested directly or can be dried, dehydrated, lyophilized or zeodrated before testing. In the latter case, they are rehydrated or diluted with purified water as a solvent. We will call ESC (for Simmondsia Chinensis Extract) the extracts obtained and used in the following examples.

[0043] Example 2. Tests and example results. The biological model: Normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) at passage 3, cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. Culture medium supplemented with EGF at 0.25ng / ml and EP at 25ug plus gentamicin 25ug. The test medium consists of SFM keratinocytes with only gentamicin 25ug / ml. Experimental conditions: Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours and then in test medium for another 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) the test compounds and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. All experimental conditions were carried out in triplicate (n=3). At the end of the incubation, the culture supernatants were removed and the cell lawns were rinsed with PBS solution. The plate was immediately frozen dry at -80°C. Prior to extraction, culture replicates were pooled. Total RNA from each sample was extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the supplier's recommended protocol. RNA quantity and quality were assessed by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). The synthesis of biotinylated antisense RNA (aRNA) was carried out using the “GeneChip 3'IVT Express” kit (Affymetrix®). For each biotinylated RNA sample, an electrophoretic profile was performed (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent) before and after fragmentation. Hybridization of labeled and fragmented aRNAs to the Affymetrix® U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) was performed on the GeneAtlas™ fluidics Affymetrix® hybridization station for 20 hours at 45°C. The U219 chips were then scanned using the GeneAtlas™ Imaging station (Affymetrix® - resolution 2 pm) to generate signal intensity data as shown in the example results below. Signal intensity data were normalized using Expression Console software (Affymetrix®), based on the RMA algorithm. Quality control of the labeling and hybridization was then performed. Quality controls of the hybridization and labeling steps allowed validation of the experimental process Once normalized with Expression Console software, the data was transferred and formatted into a Microsoft Excel file. Calculations and filters have been added to these files to sort the data and make it easier to use. The fold change thresholds (value corresponding to the ratio: signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the treated sample / signal intensity value of a probe corresponding to the control) were defined and applied to the normalized data. The following abbreviations are used in the analysis files: - UR: Upregulated - over-expression or stimulation of the probe or gene when the fold change is greater than 2, - DR: Downregulated - underexpression or inhibition of the probe or gene when the fold change is less than 0.5. Each analysis file consists of: - The signal intensity value (RE: Relative Expression) corresponding to each of the samples, - Calculations of “fold change” or modification rate for each comparison, - Information relating to each gene. Filters inserted into these files allow the selection of significantly modulated genes. The example of gene probes corresponding to the variation in expression of CYP1B1, c-Jun and CTGF thus obtained with this methodology with ESC for the Extract of beans or delipidated seeds of Simmondsia Chinensis, the numbers indicated correspond to the intensity of the signal obtained for the control and for the ESC test: Intensity of the signals for Cytochrome P450 (CYP1B1) probe 1: - Control: 20.36 - ESC: 32.58 - Modification rate: 1.60 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Cytochrome P450 (CYP1B1) probe 2: - Witness: 36.24 - ESC: 53.13 - Modification rate: 1.47 - Regulation: UR Signal intensity for Jun (c-Jun): - Witness: 49.66 - ESC: 21.25 - Change rate: 0.43 - Regulation: DR Signal intensity for Connective tissue growth factor (CTGF): - Witness: 290.23 - ESC: 22.65 - Change rate: 0.08 - Regulation: DR

[0044] In the examples below, which give examples of how to make these compositions, without this list being exhaustive, the following abbreviations will be used: ESC for the extract of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis

[0045] Example 3. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: Carboxypolymethylene or carboxylic polymer..................0.40 g Diethanolamine cetyl phosphate........................................1.50 g Octyl dodecanol............................................................5.50 g Cetyl alcohol..................................................................1.00 g Mineral oil.................................................................2.00 g Stearic acid.................................................................1.00 g Ethoxylated steryl alcohol (20 E)...........................................0.30 g Cetostearyl alcohol.................................................................1.80 g Preservative.................................................................0.15 g Jojoba Oil........................................................................0.50 g Triethanolamine..........................................................0.60 g Cyclomethicone............................................................12.00 g Dimethicone copolyol........................................................3.00 g Phenyl trimeticone................................................................2.00 g ESC................................................................................3.00 g Dextran.........................................................................1.00 g Glycerin............................................................................2.00 g Demineralized water qsp........................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use on 30 volunteers, the skin appeared smoothed within 2 hours of each application. At the end of the treatment, the number of wrinkles, their length and width were significantly reduced and the skin was more hydrated for 92% of users.

[0046] Example 4. According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - Acrylate C10-30........................................................0.50 g - Arginine............................................................0.001g - Glycerin..................................................................................1.00 g - ESC..........................................................................................0.20 g - Alcohol.................................................................2.00 g - Carbomer................................................................................0.126 g - EDTA..............................................................................................0.005 g - Preservative.......................................................................0.867 g - Jojoba oil.............................................................................0.5 g - Hydrogenated lecithin..................................................0.09 g - Hyaluronic acid....................................................................0.20 g - TEA 99%...................................................................................0.62 g - Colorings........................................................................0.0002 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After 4 weeks of use for 30 volunteers aged 20 to 70, the skin appeared significantly more hydrated and more beautiful.

[0047] Example 5. H / W emulsion: - Liquid paraffin.................................................6 g - Liquid lanolin................................................................3 g - Arlacel 165................................................................6 g - Tween 60...................................................................2 g - Cetyl alcohol................................................................1.2 g - Stearic acid.................................................2.5 g - Arginine........................................................................0.5 g - Volatile silicone oil................................................................10 g - Triethanolamine................................................................0.1g - Preservative.................................................................0.3 g - ESC..........................................................................5 g - Hyaluronic acid.......................................................0.5 g - Demineralized water qsp..................................................100 g. After 4 weeks of twice-daily use for 30 volunteers aged 33 to 70 years The skin came out significantly more toned and firmer for 100% of users readers

[0048] Example 6. Liposome Cream: - Cetyl alcohol..................................................................................4 g - B-sitosterol...................................................................................4 g - Dicetyl phosphate................................................................................0.5 g - Preservative............................................................................0.3 g - Carbopol 981 ...................................................................0.2 g - Triethanolamine.........................................................................0.2 g - Phospholipid........................................................................................0.05 g -ESC..................................................................................1.5g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g After use on a panel of 30 volunteers aged 18 to 70, the skin emerged significantly hydrated during the 3 hours of the first application, softer and younger-looking for 65% of users after 4 weeks of use. daily.

[0049] Example 7. W / O emulsion: - Protégin.......................................................................19g - Glycerin..................................................................................3 g - Vaseline oil.................................................................................8 g - Mg sulfate.............................................................................0.5 g - ESC............................................................................0.5 g - Hyaluronic acid.................................................................0.02 g - Preservative............................................................2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0050] Example 8. O / W gel emulsion - Carbopol 981 .........................................................0.6 g - Ethyl alcohol.................................................................................15 g - Volatile silicone oil..................................................................3 g - Jojoba oil.............................................................................7 g - Preservative............................................................0.3 g - Perfume...................................................................0.4 g - ESC..................................................................................0.1g - Triethanolamine........................................................................0.2 g - Demineralized water qsp.................................................................100 g

[0051] Example 9. Glycerin concentrate - Glycerin................................................................65 g -ESC..........................................................................................5 g - Arginine............................................................................1 g - Hyaluronic acid................................................ 1 g - Perfume........................................................0.4 g - Demineralized water qsp......................................................100 g

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising a water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetically acceptable vehicle is also that used as solvent during the extraction and is chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that said water-soluble extract of beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family is produced from beans or seeds previously defatted by cold pressing, one to three times successively, in order to obtain a content of 10% or less by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the beans or seeds.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family comprises less than 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract, in particular from 0% to 1% by mass of lipids relative to the total mass of the extract.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family has been made water-soluble by solubilization in a solvent chosen from water with or without enzyme, a hydroethanolic solution or a water / glycerol mixture before being able to be used as is in the composition or stored after complete drying before being resolubilized in these same cosmetically acceptable solvents before use.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that said water-soluble extract of defatted beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis of the Simmondsiaceae family represents from 0.1% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / W), a mid- croemulsion, twin phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudoemulsion, aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, suspension, freeze-dried gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing microcapsules, nanocapsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which may be presented in the form of creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, gels, solids, powders, masks, sticks, sprays, aerosols.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said composition being in the form of a two-phase micellar makeup remover, a foaming gel, a gel lotion, an exfoliant, a moisturizer, a moisturizer serum, a serum improving the appearance of wrinkles, a moisturizer body milk, a regenerating mask, a regenerating cream, a slimming body cream, an anti-aging cream, a regenerating serum, a balm, a mist, an eye treatment, a concentrate, or a detoxifying mask.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for topical application to healthy skin with the aim of advantageously using a multifunctional active ingredient making it possible both to better protect the skin from xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body and to promote its detoxification, to also protect it against oxidative and cellular stress as well as free radicals and to promote its good maturation and good differentiation allowing the skin to be more beautiful on the surface, more resistant to the harmful effects of aging and having a better quality barrier effect.

10. Cosmetic care method for healthy skin to advantageously use a multifunctional active ingredient allowing both to strengthen and promote the protection of the skin against xenobiotics, molecules foreign to the body, to also promote its detoxification, to protect it against oxidative and cellular stress as well as free radicals and to promote its good maturation and its good differentiation comprising the topical administration of a cosmetic composition of a water-soluble extract of delipidated beans or seeds of Simmondsia chinensis and optimized by the use of the analysis of the expression of the whole genome (full genome) of human keratinocytes in culture in order to determine all of the properties as well as the optimization of their preparations, the association of enzymes or not during the extraction or maceration steps, the interest or not of a tor- prior reduction, the % of defatted and dried beans or seeds or the nature of the final drying and characterized both by an increase in the expression of certain genes of interest and by a decrease in the expression of other genes of interest.