hair bleaching or oxidative coloring processes without damaging the hair
By integrating a fortifying and revitalization composition into the hair coloring process, the damage associated with traditional hair coloring methods is mitigated, resulting in improved hair health and appearance.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023010335
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-09-28
- Publication Date
- 2025-04-04
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-09-28
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair coloring processes, such as discolored or oxidative hair coloring, often damage hair due to chemical treatments, leading to issues like dryness, frizz, and loss of natural shine.
The use of a fortifying composition and a revitalization composition during the hair coloring process, which includes citric acid, cyclodextrine, polyols, and cationic surfactants, applied either as a pre-treatment or post-treatment to minimize damage and improve hair health.
The described process significantly improves the physical and mechanical properties of hair fibers, including elasticity, resistance, and thermal integrity, while reducing frizz and enhancing hair's overall appearance.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Processes for bleaching or oxidatively coloring hair without damaging the hair. SCOPE OF DISCLOSURE
[0001] This disclosure relates to hair bleaching or oxidative coloring processes that prevent or minimize hair damage. The hair bleaching or oxidative coloring is performed routinely using a strengthening and a conditioning composition. BACKGROUND
[0002] Many consumers wish to use cosmetic and care compositions to enhance the appearance of their hair, for example, by changing the color, style, and / or shape of the hair and / or by imparting various cosmetic properties to the hair, such as shine and revitalization. Hair can become dry or damaged for various reasons, for example, exposure to the elements, poor nutrition, mechanical treatments (e.g., brushing), styling treatments using chemicals, dyeing, heat, nutrition, etc. Even cleansing products can strip the hair of its natural oils, causing dryness, which can lead to a dull appearance and split ends.
[0003] Chemical hair treatments include bleaching and coloring treatments to change hair color. Chemical treatments also include processes to permanently change the shape and structure of hair, for example, by perming, perming, relaxing, or straightening. These chemical treatments often alter the appearance of hair by changing its physical structure, which inevitably causes some degree of hair damage. Environmental factors, such as salt water, sunlight, and heat, are also known to damage hair. Damaged hair is characterized by unnatural changes in the protein structure of individual hair strands or shafts.
[0004] The popularity and use of oils for hair treatment have increased due to their effectiveness and simplicity. Commonly used oils include olive oil, mineral oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, rice bran oil, and coconut oil. However, these treatments can make hair greasy. Furthermore, the effects are not usually observed until several hours (e.g., 8 hours) after treatment, and multiple treatments are usually necessary, making the process time-consuming and laborious.
[0005] Hair damage results in split ends, dryness, Hair that easily becomes squeaky clean and frizzy, and difficult to style. Because the visible part of the hair shaft is dead, it cannot regenerate itself. Many over-the-counter and salon treatments claim to repair damaged hair. These include conditioners, hot oil treatments, hydrolyzed proteins, vitamin formulations, and extracts of exotic fruits, leaves, or roots. However, these treatments offer little improvement. Therefore, hair treatment technologies that can smooth, straighten, or style hair without chemically damaging it are desired.
[0006] There is always a need to remedy the damage caused to the hair by the bleaching or oxidative coloring process. DISCLOSURE SUMMARY
[0007] This disclosure relates to processes for the oxidative bleaching or coloring of hair. The processes are based on routines using a strengthening composition and a conditioning composition in conjunction with the bleaching or oxidative coloring process. The inventors have discovered that the use of the strengthening composition and the conditioning composition in the claimed routines not only conditions the hair but also remarkably improves the physical and mechanical properties and the thermal integrity of the hair fibers, and these improvements are statistically significant. For example, the processes significantly improve the elasticity, strength, and frizz resistance of the hair fibers, as illustrated by statistically significant increases in the modulus of elasticity, tensile strength, and thermal integrity.
[0008] The fortifying composition and the revitalizing composition are used in a pre-treatment routine or a post-treatment routine during the bleaching or oxidative coloring of hair. The fortifying composition typically includes a. citric acid, one of its salts or one of its combinations; b. cyclodextrin, a derivative thereof or a combination thereof;
[0009] in which a combined total quantity of (a) and (b) is approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition; a. one or more polyols comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms; and b. water.
[0010] The fortifying composition may have a pH of about 2 to about 6, preferably of about 2 to about 5. In addition, citric acid, its salt or combination thereof (a) and cyclodextrin, their derivative, or combination thereof (b) are typically in a molar ratio of about 20:1 to about 3:1 ((a):(b)) and / or a weight ratio of about 8:1 to about 1:2 (a):(b)).
[0011] Citric acid and its salts provide a myriad of benefits to hair. By For example, it acts as an antioxidant, eliminates buildup and debris from the hair, and improves blood circulation in the scalp, which in turn nourishes the hair follicles and promotes growth. Its acidic pH is also helpful for balancing the scalp's pH, as many hair care products make it more alkaline. The citric acid in these strengthening formulas also interacts with cyclodextrin in a unique way and enhances the formation of a protective film on the hair, which is further enhanced by heat. Sodium citrate (or trisodium citrate) is an example of a citric acid salt.
[0012] Cyclodextrins are a family of cyclic oligosaccharides composed of a macrocyclic core of glucose submotifs joined by α-linkages 1,4-glycosidics. Cyclodextrins are produced from starch by enzymatic conversion. Typical cyclodextrins contain glucose monomers ranging from six to eight units in a core, creating a cone shape; for example, α(alpha)-cyclodextrin has 6 glucose subunits, β(3)-cyclodextrin has 7 glucose subunits, and γ(gamma)-cyclodextrin has 8 glucose subunits. Non-limiting examples of cyclodextrins for use in the fortifying compositions of this disclosure include α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, γ-cyclodextrin, methyl-α-cyclodextrin, methyl-β-cyclodextrin, methyl-γ-cyclodextrin, and mixtures thereof.
[0013] Preferably, citric acid, its salt, or a combination thereof, and cyclodextrin, their salt, or a combination thereof, are combined. This can be achieved by independently combining citric acid, its salt, or a combination thereof, and cyclodextrin, its salt, or a combination thereof, before adding them to other components of the fortifying composition. For example, cyclodextrin, its derivative, or a combination thereof, is preferably solubilized in citric acid to form a solubilized combination of citric acid and cyclodextrin, their derivative, or a combination thereof. The combination can be heated to facilitate or accelerate the dissolution of the cyclodextrin. The solubility of cyclodextrin in water is not always ideal.Therefore, combining cyclodextrin with citric acid and dissolving the cyclodextrin in citric acid before adding the combination with other components of the fortifying composition may be beneficial.
[0014] Non-limiting examples of polyols comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and glycerin. In various embodiments, at least one or more of the polyols is glycerin.
[0015] In various embodiments, the fortifying composition includes one or more cationic polysaccharides. Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include tionics include cationic guar and its derivatives, cationic cellulose and its derivatives, cationic starch and its derivatives, cationic callose and its derivatives, cationic xylan and its derivatives, cationic mannan and its derivatives, cationic galactomannan and its derivatives, and their combinations.
[0016] In various embodiments, the fortifying composition includes one or more polar oils. The polar oils may be volatile or non-volatile.Non-limiting examples of non-volatile polar oils include vegetable-based hydrocarbon oils such as heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, camelina oil, shea butter, avocado oil, soybean oil, sweetcorn oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, and other oils. Rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or rosehip oil; shea butter or, alternatively, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, and their combinations.
[0017] In various embodiments, the fortifying composition includes one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples of nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers include alkoxylated fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, ethoxylated mono- or diglycerides, sorbitan esters, ethoxylated sorbitan esters (polysorbates), fatty acid glycol esters, ethylene oxide, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkyl polyglucosides, and mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, at least one or more of the one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers is alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated.Non-limiting examples include straight-chain primary alcohol alkoxylates, straight-chain secondary alcohol alkoxylates, alkylphenol alkoxylates, olefinic alkoxylates, branched-chain alkoxylates, fatty oil or hydrogenated fatty oil ethoxylates, alkyl-sorbitan ester ethoxylates, alkyl glyceride ethoxylates and mixtures thereof.
[0018] Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtration agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, special materials, etc.), compositional colorants, or a mixture thereof.
[0019] The revitalization composition typically includes: a. one or more cationic surfactants; b. one or more non-silicone fatty compounds; c. one or more silicones; and d. of water.
[0020] Furthermore, in various embodiments, the revitalizing composition includes one or more of: (e) one or more thickening agents; (f) one or more water-soluble solvents; and (g) one or more miscellaneous ingredients.
[0021] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl dimethylamine, arachidamidopropyl diethylamine, arachimidoethyldiethylamine, arachimidoethyldimethylamine, brassi-camidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine and a combination thereof.
[0022] Non-limiting examples of non-silicone fatty compounds include oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty esters, propylene glycol fatty acid esters, fatty carbonates, polyolefins (such as petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, poly-lybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, vegetable oil and / or hydrocarbon-based oil (such as isohexadecane), triglycerides, or a mixture thereof.
[0023] In various embodiments, at least one or more of the non-silicone fatty compounds is a fatty alcohol. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include those having at least 8 carbon atoms and are linear or branched. In various embodiments, one or more fatty alcohols comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, for example caprylic alcohol, pelargonic alcohol, decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, nonadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, heneicosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl aloccol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, the 1-heptacosanol, Montanyyl alcohol, 1-nonacosanol and myricyl alcohol.
[0024] Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclohep-tasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, capryl-dimethicone, caprylyl trimethicone, caprylyl methicone, caprylyl methicone, cetearyl-methicone, hexadecylmethicone, hexylmethicone, lauryl methicone, myristyl methicone, phenyl methicone, stearyl methicone, stearyl dimethicone, behenyl dimethicone, trifluoropropyl methicone, cetyl dimethicone, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methyltrimethicone, diphenylsi-loxyphenyl trimethicone, and phenyl trimethicone, amino-functionalized silicones and their mixtures.
[0025] In certain embodiments, at least one or more of the silicones is an amino-functionalized silicone. Non-limiting examples of amino-functionalized silicones include amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and mixtures thereof. Aminopropyl dimethicone and amodimethicone are particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicones.
[0026] In various embodiments, the revitalizing composition includes one or more thickening agents. Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include carboxylic acid polymers, cross-linked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polysaccharides, polysaccharide derivatives, gums, starch and starch derivatives and combinations thereof.
[0027] The revitalizing composition optionally includes one or more water-soluble solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include C2-C6 monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycerin, glycols, or combinations thereof. Polyols preferably have two or three hydroxyl groups. Non-limiting examples include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, and combinations thereof.
[0028] Non-limiting examples of miscellaneous ingredients include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, the calcium carbonate, silica, special materials, etc.), color compounds, or mixtures thereof.
[0029] As noted previously, the strengthening composition and the conditioning composition can be used in a pre-treatment routine or a post-treatment routine. With the pre-treatment routine, the strengthening composition is applied to the hair before bleaching or oxidative coloring and remains on the hair when a bleaching or oxidative coloring composition is applied; that is, the strengthening composition is not rinsed from the hair before bleaching or oxidative coloring. Instead, the bleaching or oxidative coloring composition is layered over the strengthening composition already applied to the hair. The conditioning composition, however, is applied to the hair after the bleaching or oxidative coloring process is complete.After the bleaching or oxidative coloring process is complete, the bleaching or oxidative coloring solution is removed from the hair by shampooing. After rinsing the shampoo, the hair is treated with a conditioning solution.
[0030] As its name suggests, in the post-treatment routine, the strengthening composition is applied to the hair after bleaching or oxidative coloring. The hair is initially bleached or colored with a bleaching or oxidative coloring composition, and this composition is rinsed from the hair. After rinsing the bleaching or oxidative coloring composition, the hair is treated with a first application of the strengthening composition. After treatment with the first application of the strengthening composition, the hair is washed with shampoo. It is not necessary to rinse the first application of the strengthening composition from the hair before washing it with shampoo. After rinsing the shampoo from the hair, the hair is treated with a second application of the strengthening composition.Subsequently, without rinsing the second application of the hair strengthening formula, the revitalizing formula is applied to the hair; that is, the revitalizing formula is layered over the strengthening formula, which has already been applied to the hair. At the end of the treatment with the revitalizing formula, both the strengthening and revitalizing formulas are rinsed from the hair.
[0031] The processes described above and throughout the disclosure protect hair against damage due to bleaching or oxidative coloring, strengthen hair, improve curl retention, prevent frizz, and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching chemical or hair coloring. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0032] An implementation of the present technology will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which:
[0033] [Fig.1] Fig.1 shows strands of hair treated according to the present disclosure and strands of hair treated with comparative routines after being subjected to a moisture treatment.
[0034] [Fig.2] Fig.2 shows strands of hair treated according to the present di disclosure and strands of hair treated with comparative routines after being subjected to a moisture treatment. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE
[0035] A strengthening composition and a conditioning composition are used in the processes of this disclosure to prevent or minimize damage to hair subjected to a bleaching or oxidative coloring procedure. The strengthening composition can be applied before bleaching or oxidative coloring the hair (as a pretreatment) or the strengthening composition can also be applied to the hair after bleaching or oxidative coloring the hair (as a posttreatment). The inventors have discovered that the use of the strengthening composition and the conditioning composition according to the routines described herein remarkably improves the physical properties of the hair fibers, and the improvements are statistically significant.Specifically, hair treated according to the processes described in this case shows statistically significant improvements in elasticity, tensile strength (mechanical resistance), and thermal integrity. Furthermore, hair treated according to this disclosure exhibits greater resistance to frizz in high humidity conditions, which may be due, at least in part, to the improved elasticity, tensile strength, and thermal integrity.
[0036] In accordance with the pretreatment routine, a strengthening composition is applied to the hair before bleaching or oxidative coloring. The strengthening composition is applied to the hair and remains on the hair for an initial period. At the end of the treatment with the strengthening composition (upon expiration of the initial period), a bleaching or oxidative coloring composition is applied as a layer to the hair, to which the strengthening composition has already been applied. The strengthening composition is not rinsed from the hair before the application of the bleaching or oxidative coloring composition. The bleaching or oxidative coloring composition remains on the hair for a sufficient period to achieve the desired degree of bleaching or coloring. In this case, the bleaching or coloring product is removed from the hair by washing and rinsing it with shampoo. After rinsing the shampoo, the conditioning product is applied and left on the hair for the second time. At the end of the treatment with the conditioning product (upon expiration of the second time), the conditioning product is rinsed out of the hair. The hair can then be dried and / or styled, if desired.
[0037] According to the post-treatment routine, a strengthening composition is not required before bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair. In the post-treatment routine, the hair is bleached or colored with a bleaching or oxidative coloring composition. The bleaching or oxidative coloring composition remains on the hair for a sufficient time to achieve the desired degree of bleaching or coloring, at which point the bleaching or coloring composition is removed from the hair by washing and rinsing it with shampoo. After rinsing the shampoo from the hair, the hair is treated with a first application of the strengthening composition for an initial period. At the end of the treatment with the first application of the strengthening composition (upon expiration of the initial period), the hair is washed with shampoo and the shampoo is rinsed from the hair.After rinsing the shampoo from the hair, the hair is treated with a second application of the strengthening formula for a second time. At the end of the treatment with the second application of the strengthening formula (at the end of the second time period), without rinsing it out, the conditioning formula is applied to the hair. That is, the conditioning formula is layered over the strengthening formula, which has already been applied to the hair. The conditioning formula remains on the hair for a third time. At the end of the treatment with the conditioning formula (at the end of the third time period), both the strengthening and conditioning formulas are rinsed from the hair. The hair can then be dried and / or styled, if desired.
[0038] A more detailed discussion of the pre-treatment routine and the post-treatment routine is described under the heading "Processes." Details of the fortifying composition and the revitalizing composition follow. Fortifying composition: Citric acid and its salts
[0039] The total amount of citric acid, its salts, or any combination thereof will vary. However, in various embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight of citric acid, its salts, or a combination of this, in relation to a total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the fortifying composition comprises from about 1 to about 4% by weight, from about 1 to about 3% by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight, from about 2 to about 4% by weight, from about 2 to about 3% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 4% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 3% by weight, or about 1, about 1.5, about 2, about 2.5, about 3, about 3.5%, about 4, about 4.5 or about 5% by weight of citric acid, its salts, or a combination thereof, on the basis of a total weight of the fortifying composition. Cyclodextrin and derivatives
[0040] The fortifying compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one cyclodextrin or a derivative thereof. As used herein, the term "cyclodextrins" includes carboxylic acid salts, whether or not expressly indicated. Cyclodextrins are a family of cyclic oligosaccharides consisting of a macrocyclic core of glucose submotifs joined by α-1,4 glycosidic linkages.
[0041] Cyclodextrins that may be used include those of the following formula:
[0042] in which: R is chosen from H, CH3 or a hydroxypropyl group, and n goes from 6 to 8.
[0043] For example, in embodiments where R = H, the cyclodextrin can be α-cyclodextrin (n = 6), β-cyclodextrin (n = 7), or γ-cyclodextrin (n = 8). By way of example, α-cyclodextrin sold by WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W6 PHARMA, β-cyclodextrin sold by WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W7 PHARMA, or γ-cyclodextrin sold by WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W8 PHARMA can be used.
[0044] In other embodiments where R = CH3, the cyclodextrin may be a methyl-cyclodextrin, such as methyl-α-cyclodextrin (n = 6), methyl-β-cyclodextrin (n = 7), or methyl-γ-cyclodextrin (n = 8). For example, methyl-β-cyclodextrin sold by WACKER under the name CAVASOL W7 may be chosen.
[0045] In various embodiments, the at least one cyclodextrin may comprise a mixture of cyclodextrins and / or derivatives thereof. For example, the at least one cyclodextrin may be a mixture of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin and / or γ- cyclodextrin. In another embodiment, at least one cyclodextrin component includes B-cyclodextrin. In yet another embodiment, the cyclodextrin is solely B-cyclodextrin, and no other cyclodextrin or derivative thereof is present in the fortifying composition.
[0046] In one embodiment, the fortifying compositions according to this disclosure comprise B-cyclodextrin in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, such as from 0.2% to about 8%, from about 0.3% to about 7%, from about 0.4% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition.
[0047] The total amount of cyclodextrin, a derivative thereof, or a combination thereof in the fortifying compositions will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight of cyclodextrin, a derivative thereof, or a combination thereof, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition.In other embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.5 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.5% by weight, approximately 1% by weight, approximately 1.25% by weight, approximately 1.5% by weight, approximately 2% by weight, approximately 2.5% by weight, approximately 3% by weight, approximately 3.5% by weight, approximately 4% by weight, approximately 4.5% by weight, or approximately 5% by weight of cyclodextrin, or a combination of This, in relation to the total weight of the fortifying composition.
[0048] Combination of citric acid / salts and cyclodextrin
[0049] The total combined amount of citric acid, its salts or combination thereof (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, its derivative, or their combination thereof (b) will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the total combined amount of citric acid, its salts or the combination thereof (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, its derivative, or their combination thereof (i)(b) is approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition.In other embodiments, the total combined amount of citric acid, its salts or the combination of (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, its derivative or their combination (i)(b) is about 2 to about 12% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 6% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 3 to about 12% by weight, about 3 to about 10% by weight, about 3 to about 8% by weight, about 3 to about 6% by weight, about 3 to about 5% by weight, or about 2% by weight. 3% by weight, 4% by weight, 5% by weight, 6% by weight, 7% by weight or 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition.
[0050] The weight ratio of citric acid, its salts, or a combination thereof of (i)(a) to cyclodextrin, its derivative, or a combination thereof of (i)(b) will vary. However, in some embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or a combination of (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, its derivatives, or a combination thereof of (i)(b) have a weight ratio of approximately 8:1 to approximately 1:2 ((i)(a) :(i)(b)). In additional embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or a combination of (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, its derivatives, or a combination thereof of (i)(b) have a weight ratio of approximately 6:1 to approximately 1:2, approximately 5:2 to approximately 1:2, approximately 4:1 to approximately 1:2, and approximately 3:1 to approximately 1:2, from approximately 2:1 to approximately 1:2, from approximately 8:1 to approximately 1:1, from approximately 6:1 to approximately 1:1, from approximately 5:1 to approximately 1:1, from approximately 4:1 to approximately 1:1, from approximately 3:1 to approximately 1:1, from approximately 2:1 to approximately 1:1, approximately 1.2:1, approximately 1.3:1, approximately 1.4:1, about 1.5:1, about 1.6:1, about 1.7:1 or about 1.8:1 ((i)(a):(i)(b)).
[0051] The molar ratio of citric acid, its salts, or their combinations of (i)(a) to cyclodextrin, its derivative, or their combinations of (i)(b) will vary. However, in some embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or their combinations of (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, its derivative, or their combinations of (i)(b) are in a molar ratio of approximately 20:1 to approximately 3:1. In additional embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or a combination of (a) and cyclodextrin or derivatives of (b) are in a molar ratio of about 18:1 to about 3:1, about 15:1 to about 3:1, about 20:1 to about 5:1, about 18:1 to about 5:1, about 15:1 to about 5:1, about 20:1 to about 8:1, about 18:1 to about 8:1, about 15:1 to about 8:1, about 20:1 to about 10:1, about 18:1 to about 10:1, about 15:1 to about 10:1, about 14:1, about 13:1, about 12:1, about 11:1, about 10:1, of approximately 9:1 or approximately 8:1.
[0052] In various embodiments, citric acid, its salts, or a combination thereof (i)(a) and cyclodextrin, its derivative, or a combination thereof (i)(b) are combined before being added to the fortifying composition of this disclosure. For example, cyclodextrin, its derivative, or a combination thereof is preferably solubilized in citric acid to form a solubilized combination of citric acid and cyclodextrin. The combination may be heated to facilitate or accelerate the dissolution of the cyclodextrin. The solubility of cyclodextrin in water is not always ideal. Therefore, combining cyclodextrin with citric acid and dissolving the cyclodextrin in citric acid before adding the combination with other components of the fortifying composition may be beneficial.
[0053] Polyols comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms
[0054] One or more polyols in the fortifying composition comprise from 2 to 10 atoms of carbon. Preferably, polyols also contain two or three hydroxyl groups. For example, polyols can be chosen from glycols and glycerol. Non-limiting examples of polyols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and glycerin.
[0055] The total quantity of one or more polyols comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms will vary. However, in some embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 25% by weight of one or more polyols comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition.In other embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 25% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, of one or more polyols comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition. Water
[0056] The fortifying composition typically includes a large proportion of water. The total amount of water will vary but is typically from about 50 to about 97% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition. In some embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 60 to approximately 97% by weight, approximately 70 to approximately 97% by weight, approximately 75 to approximately 97% by weight, approximately 80 to approximately 97% by weight, approximately 85 to approximately 97% by weight, approximately 90 to approximately 97% by weight, approximately 50 to approximately 95% by weight, approximately 60 to approximately 95% by weight, approximately 70 to approximately 95% by weight, approximately 75 to approximately 95% by weight, approximately 80 to approximately 95% by weight, approximately 85 to approximately 95% by weight, approximately 90 to approximately 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the fortifying composition. Cationic polysaccharide
[0057] A cationic polysaccharide has a positive charge density, for example, of 0.01 meq / g and 20 meq / g, preferably of 0.05 to 15 meq / g and, more preferably, of 0.1 to 10 meq / g. Cationic polysaccharides may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged fraction selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary, or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, a an imino group and a pyridyl group. The term "amino group" (primary) here means the -NH2 group. Examples of quaternary ammonium groups include 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride (CHPTMAC), 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride (EPTAC), diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride (DMDAAC), vinylbenzene trimethyl ammonium chloride, ethyl trimethylammonium methacrylate chloride, methacrylamidopropyl-trimethyl ammonium chloride (MAPTAC) and tetraalkylammonium chloride.
[0058] It is preferable that the cationic polysaccharide has at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a quaternary trialkyl ammonium group and, more preferably, a quaternary trimethyl ammonium group.
[0059] An example of a cationic functional group in cationic polysaccharides, such as cationic guars, is trimethylamino(2-hydroxyl)propyl, with a counterion. Various counterions can be used, including, but not limited to, halides, such as chloride, fluoride, bromide, and iodide, sulfate, nitrate, methyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, one or more cationic polysaccharides are selected from cationic guars. In other embodiments, at least one or more of the cationic polysaccharides is a cationic guar. Guars are polysaccharides composed of the sugars galactose and mannose. The backbone is a linear chain of [3] 1,4-linked mannose residues to which galactose residues are 1,6-linked to every other mannose, forming short lateral branches.In the context of this disclosure, cationic guars can be considered as cationic derivatives of guars.
[0060] Non-limiting examples of cationic polysaccharides include cationic guars, cationic celluloses (also called cationic cellulosic polymers), cationic starches, cationic gums, cationic callose, cationic xylan, cationic mannan and cationic galactomannan.
[0061] Cationic guars include cationic hydroxyalkyl guars, such as cationic hydroxyethyl guar, cationic hydroxypropyl guar, cationic hydroxybutyl guar, and cationic carboxylalkyl guars, including cationic carboxymethyl guar, cationic alkylcarboxy guars such as cationic carboxylpropyl guar, cationic carboxybutyl guar, and cationic carboxymethylhydroxypropyl guar. In one embodiment, the cationic guar is hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, or a combination thereof.
[0062] The cationic polysaccharide, such as cationic guars, may have an average molecular weight (Mw) between 100,000 Daltons and 3,500,000 Daltons, preferably between 100,000 Daltons and 1,500,000 Daltons, more preferably between 100,000 Daltons and 1,000,000 Daltons.
[0063] In the context of this application, the term "Degree of Substitution (DS)" of cationic polysaccharides, such as cationic guar, is the average number of substituted hydroxyl groups per sugar unit. The DS can be determined by titration. The DS of a cationic polysaccharide, such as cationic guar, can be in the range of 0.01 to 1. Preferably, the DS of a cationic polysaccharide, such as cationic guar, is in the range of 0.05 to 1. More preferably, the DS of a cationic polysaccharide, such as cationic guar, is in the range of 0.05 to 0.2.
[0064] In the context of this application, the "Charge Density (CD)" of cationic polysaccharides, such as cationic guar, refers to the ratio of the number of positive charges on a monomeric unit of which a polymer is composed to the molecular weight of said monomeric unit. The CD of the cationic polysaccharide, such as cationic guar, may be in the range of 0.1 to 3 (meq / gm). Preferably, the CD of the cationic polysaccharide, such as cationic guar, is in the range of 0.1 to 2 (meq / gm). More preferably, the CD of the cationic polysaccharide, such as cationic guar, is in the range of 0.1 to 1 (meq / gm).
[0065] In some embodiments, at least one or more of the cationic polysaccharides is a cationic cellulose (or "cationic cellulosic polymer"), for example, cellulose ether derivatives comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. Cationic cellulosic polymers include cellulosic copolymers and cellulosic derivatives grafted with at least one water-soluble monomer of a quaternary ammonium, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with at least one selected from methacryloyl-ethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and dimethyldially-lammonium.Also useful are cationic cellulosic polymers having at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms. Cationic cellulose polymers may be quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals attached to the quaternary ammonium group may preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferentially designate phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthryl groups.
[0066] In various embodiments, at least one or more of the polysaccharides Cationic starches can be cationic starches. As a non-limiting example of cationic starches, one can cite starches modified by a salt of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (e.g., chloride), such as the product known as starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride according to INC1 nomenclature.
[0067] In various embodiments, at least one or more of the cationic polysaccharides may be a cationic gum, for example, cationic cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, acacia gum, or gum arabic. Non-limiting examples of cationic gums include cationic polygalactomannan derivatives such as guar gum derivatives and cassia gum derivatives, for example CTFA: Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, and Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.
[0068] In some embodiments, polyquatemiums may include poly-quatemium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-67, hydroxypropyltrimonium starch chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium starch chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride.
[0069] The quantity of one or more cationic polysaccharides in the fortifying composition will vary. However, in some embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.05 to approximately 5% by weight of one or more cationic polysaccharides. In other embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.05 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.8% by weight, approximately 0.9% by weight, approximately 1% by weight, approximately 1.1% by weight, approximately 1.2% by weight, or approximately 1.5% by weight of one or more cationic polysaccharides, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition. Polar oils
[0070] The fortifying composition may optionally include one or more polar oils.
[0071] The term "oil" is intended to designate any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure. Non-limiting examples of oils include volatile or non-volatile oils, which may be hydrocarbon-based oils, particularly those of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0072] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular, at least one Si-O group.
[0073] “Hydrocarbon-based oil” is intended to designate an oil containing principal composed mainly of hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.
[0074] The one or more polar oils may include non-silicone polar oils, silicone polar oils, or a combination thereof.
[0075] For the purposes of the present invention, "polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter δa at 25 °C is different from 0 (J / cm³)¹ / ². In particular, "polar oil" means an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon, or phosphorus atom. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters," J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: • ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular impacts; • ôp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles. • ôh characterizes specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base bonds, donor / acceptor bonds, etc.); • ôa is determined by the equation: ôa = (ôp2 + ôh2)' / 2.
[0076] The parameters ôp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)' / 2.
[0077] Preferably, one or more polar oils used according to this inventions have an ô between 4 and 9.1, preferably an ô between 6 and 9.1, always better still between 7.3 and 9.1.
[0078] (i) Non-volatile polar oils
[0079] The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to designate an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg). Non-volatile oils may be selected, in particular, from among non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, which may be fluorinated, and / or non-volatile silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include: • hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, • Oils based on vegetable hydrocarbons, such as phytostearyl esters, like phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate, for example sold under the Named Eldew PS203® by Ajinomoto, triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, whose fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C24, these chains being possibly linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; These oils include triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or alternatively wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or rosehip oil;Shea butter; or, alternatively, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides. • Synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R represents a specially branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 equals 3 10. The esters may be selected in particular from fatty acid esters, polyol esters and pentaerythrityl esters, diol dimer esters and diacid dimer esters,
[0080] Non-limiting examples of fatty acid esters of alcohols include cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters and C8-C18 fatty acid esters, preferably C12-C16, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, palmitate ethyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate,diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, in particular Ci2-Ci5 alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for example isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for example isononanoate isononyl, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate; ,
[0081] Non-limiting examples of polyol esters and pentaerythrityl esters include dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetrastearate; • Fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and even better 18 to 20 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol, • higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and their mixtures; • dialkyl carbonates, where the two alkyl chains may be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, • C2-C16 dicarboxylic acid diesters, preferably C8-C12, and C1-C4 monoalcohol diesters, preferably C3-C4 branched monoalcohol diesters. Preferably, sebacic acid and isopropyl alcohol diesters, such as diisopropyl sebacate, • non-volatile silicone oils, such as, for example, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant and / or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, di-phenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and dimethicones or phenyl trimethicones having a viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof.
[0082] (ii) Volatile polar oils
[0083] The expression "volatile oil" is intended to designate an oil (or a non-aqueous medium) that can evaporate upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, having in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
[0084] Non-limiting examples of volatile polar oils include linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 x 10⁶ m² / s), and in particular those having from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples More specific examples of volatile silicone oils include dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and combinations thereof. Volatile fluorinated oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof, may also be used.
[0085] According to a preferred embodiment, the one or more polar oils are selected from hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, synthetic esters of formula RiCOOR2 in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri+ R2 equals 3 10, fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and contain a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, dialkyl carbonates, C2-Ci6 dicarboxylic acid diesters and Ci-C4 monoalcohol diesters and combinations thereof.
[0086] In certain embodiments, one or more polar oils are selected from triglycerides consisting of glycerol esters and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C4 to C24; esters of isopropyl alcohol and fatty acids in C8 to C18, preferably in C12 to C16; fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and contain a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 18 to 20 carbon atoms; dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains being identical, preferably dicaprylyl carbonate; C8-C12 dicarboxylic acid diesters and C3-C4 branched monoalcohol diesters, preferably diisopropyl sebacate; and mixtures thereof.
[0087] The polar oil(s) in the context of the present invention may preferably be chosen from glycerol and C6-Ci2 fatty acid triglycerides, glycerol and Ci4-C22 fatty acid triglycerides, isopropyl alcohol and C8-Ci8 fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and contain a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain comprising 18 to 20 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
[0088] In certain embodiments, one or more polar oils are selected from glycerol and C14-C22 fatty acid triglycerides comprising 50% to 100% by weight of linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated C18 fatty acids, including 0% to 5% by weight of saturated C18 fatty acids such as stearic acid, 50% to 98% by weight of monounsaturated fatty acids such as ricinoleic and / or oleic acids, and / or 2% to 70% by weight of polyunsaturated C18 fatty acids such as linoleic and / or linolenic acids, relative to the total weight of fatty acids contained within said triglycerides.
[0089] In some embodiments, the one or more polar oils are chosen from the triglycerides of glycerol and C6-Ci2 fatty acids comprising 45% to 80% by weight of C8 fatty acids and 20% to 45% by weight of C10 fatty acids, relative to the total weight of fatty acids contained within said triglycerides.
[0090] In some embodiments, one or more polar oils are chosen from fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and contain a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain comprising 18 to 20 carbon atoms, glycerol triglycerides and C14-C22 fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
[0091] Preferably, one or more polar oils are selected from vegetable oils. Preferred, but not limiting, vegetable oils include castor oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, peanut oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, and hydrogenated vegetable oil; and triglyceride vegetable oils known as medium-chain triglycerides, such as coconut oil or triglyceride vegetable oils derived from palm kernel oil. In addition, certain specialty vegetable oils can be produced from a wide variety of vegetable seeds and grains. Non-limiting examples of these oils include malt oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, grapeseed oil, blackberry seed oil, annatto oil, peanut oil and various other oils.
[0092] The quantity of one or more polar oils in the fortifying composition, if present, will vary. However, in some embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition. In other embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.6% by weight, approximately 0.7% by weight, approximately 0.8% by weight, approximately 0.9% by weight, approximately 1% by weight, approximately 1.1% by weight, approximately 1.2% by weight, approximately 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fortifying composition. Non-ionic surfactant or emulsifier
[0093] The terms "nonionic surfactant" and "nonionic emulsifier" are used interchangeably in this disclosure and may therefore be referred to as "nonionic emulsifying surfactants." The nonionic surfactant or emulsifier may have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) ranging from 1 to 7.9 or more. Greater than or equal to 8. "HLB" refers to the "hydrophilic-lipophilic balance" associated with nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. Specifically, the "HLB" value relates to the ratio of hydrophilic to lipophilic groups in emulsifiers, as well as the emulsifier's solubility. Emulsifiers with a lower HLB (such as those with HLB values ranging from 1 to 7.9) are more soluble in oils (lipophilic matter) and are more suitable for use in water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. Emulsifiers with a higher HLB (such as those with HLB values greater than 8) are more soluble in water (hydrophilic matter) and are more suitable for oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions.
[0094] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers include alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) may be selected from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylenated esters of sorbitan, optionally alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylenated ethers of sorbitan, optionally alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylenated esters of glycerol, and optionally alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylenated ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
[0095] (1) Alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) which are preferred The most commonly used are those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) motifs ranging from 2 to 200. Examples include (INCI name), PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cocoate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
[0096] (2) Alkyl and polyalkyl poly(ethylene oxide) ethers, which are preferred The most commonly used are those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with an ethylene oxide (EO) number ranging from 3 to 200. Examples include laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-23, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-15, ceteth-23, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-20, oleth-50, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth-6, steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40, steareth-100, beheneth-100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12-15 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth- 7 and trideceth-10, and their mixtures.
[0097] (3) The polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan that are preferred The most commonly used are those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) motifs ranging from 0 to 100. Examples include sorbitan laurate, sorbitan laurate 4 EO, sorbitan laurate 20 EO (polysorbate 20), sorbitan palmitate 20 EO (polysorbate 40), sorbitan stearate 20 EO (polysorbate 60), sorbitan oleate 20 EO (polysorbate 80) and sorbitan trioleate 20 EO (polysorbate 85).
[0098] (4) Alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ethers which are preferred The most commonly used are those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) motifs ranging from 0 to 100.
[0099] The fortifying compositions of this disclosure may include one or more alkanolamides. Non-limiting examples of alkanolamides include fatty acid alkanolamides. Fatty acid alkanolamides may be fatty acid monoalkanolamides, fatty acid dialkanolamides, or fatty acid isoalkanolamides, and may have a hydroxyalkyl group at C2-8 (the C2-8 chain may be substituted by one or more -OH groups). Non-limiting examples include fatty acid diethanolamides (DEA) or fatty acid monoethanolamides (MEA), fatty acid monoisopropanolamides (MIPA), fatty acid diisopropanolamides (DIPA), and fatty acid glucamides (acyl glucamides).
[0100] Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides include those formed by the reaction of an alkanolamine and a C6-C36 fatty acid. Examples include, but are not limited to: oleic acid diethanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide (Stearamide MEA), behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide (Isostearamide MIPA), erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoisopropanolamide (cocamide MIPA), coconut acid monoethanolamide (cocamide MEA), palm kernel acid diethanolamide, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, polyoxyethylene coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, monoethanolamide of coconut oil, lauric monoethanolamide,Lauric acid monoisopropanolamide (lauramide MIPA), myristic acid monoisopropanolamide (myristamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid diisopropanolamide (cocamide DIPA), and mixtures thereof.
[0101] In some cases, fatty acid alkanolamides include cocamide MIPA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide DIPA, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the fatty acid alkanolamide may be cocamide MIPA, which is commercially available under the trade name EMPILAN from Innospec Active Chemicals.
[0102] Fatty acid alkanolamides include those having the following structure: O iv xi JxSjJXg
[0103] where R4 is an alkyl chain of 4 to 20 carbon atoms (R4 can be, for example, selected from lauric acid, coconut acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, babassu fatty acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, maize fatty acid, soybean fatty acid, shea butter fatty acids, caprylic acid, capric acid and mixtures thereof);
[0104] R6 is selected from -CH2OH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl and their mixtures;
[0105] R6 is selected from -H, -CH3, -CH2OH, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, --CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl and mixtures thereof.
[0106] In some cases, one or more of the fatty acid alkanolamides include one or more acyl glucamides, for example, acyl glucamides having a carbon chain length of 8 to 20. Non-limiting examples include lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / capryl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, capryl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, lauryl methyl glucamide, oleoyl methyl glucamide oleate, stearoyl methyl glucamide stearate, toumesoloyl methyl glucamide and to-copheryl succinate methyl glucamide.
[0107] The fortifying compositions of this disclosure may include one or more alkyl polyglucosides. Non-limiting examples of alkyl polyglucosides include alkyl polyglucosides conforming to the following formula: Rl-O-(R2O)nZ(x)
[0108] Where R1 is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
[0109] R2 is an ethylene or propylene group;
[0110] Z is a saccharide group with 5 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0111] n is an integer from 0 to 10; and
[0112] x is an integer from 1 to 5.
[0113] Useful alkyl polyglucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, the Decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate. Typically, at least one alkyl polyglucoside compound is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and coco glucoside. In some cases, decyl glucoside is particularly preferred.
[0114] The fortifying compositions of this disclosure may include one or more various nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples include alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated, or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranging from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.Other examples include, but are not limited to, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerol fatty amides comprising, for example, 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono- or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of (C6-C24)alkyl polyglycosides of glycerol; N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (Ci0-Ci4)alkylamine oxides or N-(Ci0-Ci4)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0115] Such non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers may preferably be selected from polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene motifs are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene motifs, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene motifs.
[0116] In some cases, the non-ionic surfactant or emulsifier may be selected from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or fatty acids, preferably C2-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or fatty acids, preferably C2-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100;sorbitol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of a C8-C fatty acid or fatty acids; 24, preferably in C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of an alcohol or fatty alcohols in C8-C24, preferably in C12-C22; and mixtures thereof.
[0117] Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be cited include ethylene oxide adducts with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, in particular those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (under CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and their mixtures.
[0118] Examples of fatty acid glyceryl esters include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof.
[0119] Examples of glyceryl esters of C8-C24 alkoxylated fatty acids include polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate.
[0120] Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEG1N by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
[0121] The total quantity of one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers in the fortifying composition, if present, will vary. However, in some embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more anionic surfactants, based on the total weight of the fortifying composition. In additional embodiments, the fortifying composition includes about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, about 0.01 to about 1% by weight, about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, about 0.05 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.05 to about 1% by weight of one or more non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers, on a total weight basis of the composition. Various ingredients
[0122] The fortifying composition optionally includes one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with fortifying compositions and do not disrupt or materially affect the fundamental and innovative properties of the fortifying composition. Non-limiting examples of ingredients include preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), compositional colorants, etc. In various embodiments, miscellaneous ingredients are selected from preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, compositional colorants, and mixtures thereof.In the context of this disclosure, a "composition colorant" is a compound that colors the composition but does not have a noticeable coloring effect on hair. In other words, the composition colorant is included to give the composition color for aesthetic purposes but is not intended to impart coloring properties to hair. Hair gels, for example, may come in a variety of different colors (e.g., light blue, light pink, etc.), but applying the hair gel to the hair does not visibly change the hair color.
[0123] The total quantity of one or more miscellaneous ingredients in the fortifying composition, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, relative to the total weight of the compositions.In other embodiments, the fortifying composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, or approximately 2 to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions. . pH
[0124] The pH of the fortifying composition will vary. However, in some embodiments, a pH below 7 (an acidic pH) is desirable. In other embodiments, the pH of the compositions is from about 3 to about 6.5, from about 3 to about 6, from about 3 to about 5.5, from about 3 to about 5, from about 3 to about 4.5, from about 3 to about 4, from about 3.5 to about 6.5, from about 3.5 to about 6, from about 3.5 to about 5.5, from about 3.5 to about 5, or from about 3.5 to about 4.5. or from about 3.5 to about 4. Revitalizing composition: Cationic surfactant
[0125] The term “cationic surfactant” as defined by this disclosure is a surfactant that can be positively charged when contained in the revitalizing compositions described in the disclosure. The cationic surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the revitalizing composition described in the disclosure.
[0126] Useful monoalkyl cationic surfactants here are primary, secondary, and tertiary amines having an alkyl or alkenyl group approximately 12 to approximately 30 carbon atoms long, preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 to 22 alkyl groups. For example, monoalkyl cationic surfactants include monoalkyl trimonium halide compounds. Non-limiting examples of monoalkyl trimonium halide compounds include cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium chloride, and cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride. Cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, and behentrimonium chloride are preferred.
[0127] In various embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, or a combination thereof.
[0128] Cationic monoalkyl surfactants also include monoalkylamidoamines. Tertiary amidoamines comprising an alkyl group of about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, preferably of about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms, are particularly useful. Examples of tertiary amidoamines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, and an associated combination.
[0129] Dialkyl cationic surfactants include those of formula (I) and associated salts: Formula (I)
[0130] wherein two of R71, R72, R73 and R74 are selected from an aliphatic group of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably of 16 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably of 18 to 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxy-alkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group comprising up to about 30 carbon atoms;
[0131] the remainder of R71, R72, R73 and R74 are independently selected from an aliphatic group of 1 to about 8 carbon atoms, preferably of 1 to 3 carbon atoms, or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group comprising up to about 8 carbon atoms and
[0132] A is an anion, for example, a halide, such as chloride or bromide, a C1-C4 alkyl sulfate such as methosulfate and ethosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0133] The aliphatic groups for Formula (I) may contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether bonds and other groups such as amine groups. Longer-chain aliphatic groups, for example those of about 16 carbons or more, may be saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, two of R71, R72, R73, and R74 are selected from an alkyl group of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and even better 18 to 22 carbon atoms; and the remainder of R71, R72, R73, and R74 are independently selected from CH3, C2H5, C2H4OH, CH2C6H5, and mixtures thereof.
[0134] Non-limiting examples of cationic dialkyl surfactants of formula (I) include dialkyl(14-18)dimethylammonium chloride, dimethyl di(alkyl) tallow ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated dimethyl(alkyl) tallow ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, diketyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetylldimonium chloride, dicetylldimonium bromide and an associated combination.
[0135] In a preferred embodiment, one or more cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, and linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine. Thylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate, or a combination thereof.
[0136] The total amount of one or more cationic surfactants in the revitalizing composition will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the revitalizing composition includes approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 1.5 to about 3% by weight, from about 2 to about 10% by weight, from about 2 to about 8% by weight, from about 2 to about 6% by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight, from about 2 to about 4% by weight, from about 2 to about 3% by weight, or about 1% by weight, about 1.5% by weight, about 2% by weight, about 2.5% by weight, about 3% by weight, about 3.5% by weight, about 4% by weight, about 4.5% by weight, about 5% by weight, about 6% by weight, about 8% by weight, about 10% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants. Non-silicone fatty compounds
[0137] The expression "non-silicone fatty compound" is interchangeable with the expression "non-silicone fatty compound" and designates an organic compound without silicone that is insoluble in water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), i.e., that has a solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.1%. They have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms. Throughout this disclosure, any reference to a "fatty compound" is taken to mean a non-silicone fatty compound, even if the term "non-silicone" is not used.
[0138] More specifically, one or more non-silicone fatty compounds may be selected from C6-Ci6 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type vegetable oils, synthetic triglycerides, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols, unsalted fatty acids, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides glycerides and vegetable waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones, and their mixtures.
[0139] Fatty alcohols, fatty esters, and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular, by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0140] With regard to C6-C16 hydrocarbons, they are linear, branched, or facultatively cyclic, and are preferentially alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane, and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
[0141] One oil based on hydrocarbons of animal origin that may be cited is perhydrosqualene.
[0142] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among the triglycerides of liquid fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, bone marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
[0143] Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, containing more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably selected from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.
[0144] Fluorinated oils may be selected from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, marketed under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetrafluorohexane, marketed under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl marketed under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholinic derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine marketed under the name PF 5052® by 3M.
[0145] The fatty alcohols that can be used in the revitalizing composition can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, among which we can cite, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.
[0146] The unsalted fatty acids that can be used in the revitalizing composition can be saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are most particularly selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.
[0147] These acids are not salified. This means that they are introduced in the form of free acids and that the revitalizing composition does not include any alkaline agent leading to their salification.
[0148] Fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, which can be used in revitalizing compositions are esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or C1-C26 branched, linear or branched, C1-C26, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbons in the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10. Examples of monoesters include dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; and linoleyl lactate. oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate;isodecyl oleate; isononyl isonanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyle stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyle or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
[0149] Still within the context of this variant, C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acid esters and C1-C22 alcohol esters and C2-C26 mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acid esters and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohol esters may also be used.
[0150] In particular, mention may also be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecyleneate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; pentaerythrityl dicaprylate glycol; propylene dicaprate glycol; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.
[0151] Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyle, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isonanoate or cetyl octanoate.
[0152] The esters according to this embodiment may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate. More specifically, mono- and diesters are used, and in particular, mono- or di-oleate, β-stearate, β-behenate, β-oleopalmitate, β-linoleate, β-linolenate, or β-oleostearate of sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose.
[0153] The non-silicone wax or waxes that can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen, in particular, from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes, for example olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax marketed by Bertin (France), animal waxes, for example beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabelline); other waxes or waxy starting materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes such as the product marketed by Sophim under reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.
[0154] In a preferred embodiment, one or more non-silicone fatty compounds are selected from oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty esters, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof. In some embodiments, at least one of the non-silicone fatty compounds is a fatty alcohol. Preferably, the revitalizing compositions include: (i) one or more fatty alcohols; and (ii) one or more additional non-silicone fatty compounds, other than the one or more fatty alcohols.
[0155] (i) Fatty alcohol
[0156] The term "fatty alcohol" refers to an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and typically comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylated (in particular neither oxyethylated nor oxypropylated) nor glycerolated. Fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still, from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even better still, from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0157] In various embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include at least one solid fatty alcohol. Solid fatty alcohols are fatty alcohols that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25 °C, 780 mmHg), and are insoluble in water, i.e., they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25 °C, 1 atm. Solid fatty alcohols can be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even better, from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.Non-limiting examples include lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), and combinations thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the revitalizing compositions include at least one solid fatty alcohol selected from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and their combinations such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0158] In various embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include at least one liquid fatty alcohol, in particular containing C10-C34, and preferably having branched carbon chains and / or having one or more, preferably 1 to 3, double bonds. They are preferably branched and / or unsaturated (C=C double bond) and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms. The liquid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, where R denotes an alkyl group or an alkenyl group branched or linear in the C12-C24 range, R optionally being substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. In some embodiments, the liquid fatty alcohols are selected from branched saturated alcohols. Preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. Non-limiting examples include oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenylic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-l-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, 2-decyl-l-tetracanol, 2-tetradecyl-l-cetanol, and combinations thereof. In other embodiments, the revitalizing compositions are free or substantially free of liquid fatty alcohols, including the liquid fatty alcohols referenced above.
[0159] In a preferred embodiment, the one or more fatty alcohols are linear (straight-chain) saturated fatty alcohols having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and combinations thereof.
[0160] The total quantity of one or more fatty alcohols in the revitalizing composition will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total quantity of one or more fatty alcohols is from about 1 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 2 to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the revitalizing composition. In other embodiments, the revitalizing composition includes approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 8% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, relative to the total weight of the revitalizing composition.
[0161] (ii) Additional non-silicone fatty compound
[0162] Additional non-silicon fatty compounds other than one or more fatty alcohols include the one or more non-silicon fatty compounds mentioned above under the heading "(ii)(b) Non-silicon fatty compounds." The total amount of the one or more additional non-silicon fatty compounds (in addition to the one or more fatty alcohols), if present, will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the revitalizing composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight of the one or more additional non-silicon compounds. In further embodiments, the revitalizing composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1 to about 12% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 2 to about 12% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, or about 3 to about 6% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, relative to the total weight of the revitalizing composition.
[0163] The total amount of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds (fatty alcohols and / or one or more additional non-silicone fatty compounds) in the revitalizing compositions will vary. However, in various embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include approximately 1 to approximately 20% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, relative to the total weight of the revitalizing compositions.In other embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 8 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 8 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 8 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 8% by weight, 9% by weight, 10% by weight, 11% by weight, 12% by weight, 13% by weight, or 14% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, relative to to the total weight of the composition. Silicone oil
[0164] Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsi-lylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In a preferred embodiment, one or more of the silicones are non-volatile silicone oils. Useful silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes, or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.Other examples of silicone oils that can be cited include volatile linear or cyclic silicones, such as those with a viscosity of 8 centistokes and / or containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms. These silicones optionally include alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane. heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include one or more silicone oils selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone and amodimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, and combinations thereof.
[0165] The total amount of one or more silicone oils in the conditioning compositions, if present, will vary. However, in some embodiments, the conditioning compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the conditioning composition. In other embodiments, the revitalizing compositions comprise from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 3% by weight, from about 2 to about 10% by weight, from about 2 to about 8% by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight or from about 2 to about 3% by weight of one or more silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the revitalizing composition.
[0166] Preferably, at least one or more of the silicone oils is an amino-functionalized silicone. The term "amino-functionalized silicone" or "aminosilicones" refers to a silicone containing at least one primary amino, secondary amino, tertiary amino, and / or quaternary ammonium group. The structure of the amino-functionalized silicone may be linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic.
[0167] Non-limiting examples of amino-functionalized silicones include bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones and a mixture thereof. In some cases, a particularly useful amino-functionalized silicone is bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, where X is isobutyl and one of the Rs is OH and the other is OCH3 in the structure shown above. It is also known as "bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone" and "3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, di-Me, with [(hydroxydimethylsilyl)oxy]- and [(methoxydimethylsilyl)oxy] terminations." Bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone is commercially available under the brand name DOWSIL AP-8087 FLUID from Dow Chemical.A particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicone is amodimethicone. An example is not... A limited range of amodimethicone products containing amino silicones of structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 652, BELSIL ADM 4000 E, or BELSIL ADM LOG 1. A product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300. In addition, or alternatively, the average weight molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2,000 to 200,000, more particularly from 5,000 to 100,000, and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000.
[0168] In a preferred embodiment, one or more amino-functionalized silicones are selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof. In another preferred embodiment, the amino-functionalized silicone is amodimethicone.
[0169] The total quantity of one or more amino-functionalized silicones in the revitalizing compositions, if present, will vary. However, in some embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones, relative to the total weight of the revitalizing composition. In other embodiments, the revitalizing compositions comprise from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 3% by weight, from about 2 to about 10% by weight, from about 2 to about 8% by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight or from about 2 to about 3% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones, relative to the total weight of the revitalizing composition. Water
[0170] The total amount of water in the revitalization compositions will vary. However, in some embodiments, the revitalization compositions include approximately 50 to approximately 90% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the revitalization composition. In other embodiments, the revitalization compositions include approximately 60 to approximately 90% by weight, approximately 65 to approximately 90% by weight, approximately 70 to approximately 90% by weight, approximately 50 to approximately 85% by weight, approximately 60 to approximately 85% by weight, approximately 65 to approximately 85% by weight, approximately 70 to approximately 85% by weight, approximately 75 to approximately 85% by weight, approximately 78 to approximately 80% by weight, and approximately 82 to approximately 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the revitalization composition. Thickening agent
[0171] The revitalizing composition may optionally include one or more thickening agents (also called thickeners or viscosity-modifying agents). Many thickening agents are water-soluble and increase the viscosity of water or form an aqueous gel when dispersed / dissolved in water. The aqueous solution may be heated and cooled, or neutralized, to form the gel, if necessary. The thickening agent may be dispersed / dissolved in an aqueous solvent that is water-soluble, for example, ethyl alcohol when dispersed / dissolved in water.
[0172] Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia seneca gum, sclerotium gum, agarose, pectin, gellan gum, starch, and their derivatives. In some cases, one or more thickening agents may include polymeric thickening agents, for example, those selected from the group consisting of polyvinyl pyrrolidone, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamide, a carbomer, and a C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer.
[0173] (i) Carboxylic acid polymers
[0174] These polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyhydric alcohol.
[0175] Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers useful here include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol. Carbomers are available in BF Goodrich's "Carbopol.RTM 900" range (e.g., "Carbopol® 954"). In addition, other suitable carboxylic acid polymer agents include "Ultrez® 10" (BF Goodrich) and copolymers of C10-30 alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their short-chain esters (namely, a Cl-4 alcohol), wherein the crosslinking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as C10-C30 alkyl acrylate / acrylate crosslinked polymers and are commercially available under the names "Carbopol® 1342", "Carbopol® 1382", "Pemulen TR-1" and "Pemulen TR-2" from BFGoodrich. In other words, the examples of useful carboxylic acid polymeric thickeners here are those chosen from among carbomers, cross-linked polymers. C10-C30 acrylates / alkyl acrylates and combinations thereof. Additional non-limiting examples of thickening agents include crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, and gums, as detailed below.
[0176] (ii) Crosslinked polyacrylate polymers
[0177] The revitalization compositions of this disclosure may optionally contain crosslinked polyacrylate polymers useful as thickeners or gelling agents, including cationic and nonionic polymers.
[0178] (iii) Polyacrylamide polymers
[0179] The revitalization compositions of this disclosure may optionally contain polyacrylamide polymers, including polyacrylamide polymers, including substituted branched or unbranched polymers. Among these polyacrylamide polymers is the CTFA polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, and laureth-7 polymer, available under the trade name "Sepigel 305" from Seppic Corporation.
[0180] Other polyacrylamide polymers useful here include acrylamides and acrylic acid-substituted acrylamides multiblock copolymers and acrylic acid-substituted acrylamides. Commercially available examples of such multiblock copolymers include "Hypan SR150H", "Hypan SS500V", "Hypan SS500W" and "Hypan SSSA100H" from Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
[0181] Revitalizing compositions may also contain thickening and texturizing gels of the type exemplified by the United Guardian "Lubrajel®" product line. These gels have moisturizing, viscosifying, and stabilizing properties.
[0182] (iv) Polysaccharides
[0183] A wide variety of polysaccharides can be useful here. "Polysaccharides" refers to gelling agents that contain a backbone of repeating sugar units (i.e., carbohydrates). Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from the group consisting of cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and combinations thereof. Alkyl-substituted celluloses are also useful here. Among the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers, the designation material CTFA cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is cetyl alcohol ether of hydroxyethylcellulose, is preferred. This material is sold under the trade name "Natrosol® CS Plus" by Aqualon Corporation..
[0184] Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a chain linear of (1 to 3) glucose motifs linked with a (1 to 6) glucose linked every three motifs, of which a commercially available example is "Clearogel™ CS11" by Michel Mercier Products Inc.
[0185] Erasers
[0186] Other useful thickening and gelling agents here include materials that are mainly derived from natural sources. Non-limiting examples of these gums of thickening agents include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, camitin, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropylchitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, biosaccharide gum, and combinations thereof.
[0187] Additional examples of water-soluble thickeners include natural water-soluble polymers, synthetic water-soluble polymers, clay minerals, and silicic anhydride.Non-limiting examples of natural water-soluble polymers include gum arabic, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, sodium alginate, propylene glycol alginic acid ester, carrageenan, farcelluran, agar, high methoxy pectin, low methoxy pectin, xanthine, chitosan, starch (e.g., starch derived from maize, potato, wheat, rice, sweet potato, and tapioca; alpha-starch; soluble starch), fermentation polysaccharide (e.g., xanthan gum, pullulan, carciran, dextran), and acid heteropolysaccharide derived from the callus of plants belonging to the Polyante species (e.g., polysaccharide). tuberous), proteins (e.g., sodium casein, gelatin, albumin), chondroitin sulfate, and hyaluronic acid.
[0188] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble synthetic polymers include polyvinyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polymethacrylate, polyacrylic acid glycerin ester, carboxyvinyl polymer, polyacrylamide, polyvinylpyrolidone, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinyl sulfone, maleic acid copolymer, polyethylene oxide, polydiallylamine, polyethylene imine, water-soluble cellulose derivatives (e.g., carboxymethylcellulose, methyl cellulose, methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium salt of cellulose sulfate) and starch derivatives (e.g., starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin) , acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, and hydroxypropyl starch).
[0189] The total quantity of one or more thickening agents, if present, will vary. However, in some embodiments, the revitalizing composition includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 8% by weight of one or more thickening agents. In other embodiments, the revitalizing composition includes approximately 0.01 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.01 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 2% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the revitalizing composition. Water-soluble solvent
[0190] The term "water-soluble organic solvent" is interchangeable with the terms "water-soluble solvent" and "water-miscible solvent" and refers to a compound that is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C1-8, C1-4 alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof.
[0191] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., Cho, Ci-8, or CM alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of monoalcohols and polyols include ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin.
[0192] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethyl- lolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as monomethyl ethylene glycol ether, monoethyl ethylene glycol ether, monobutyl ethylene glycol ether, monomethyl ethylene glycol ether acetate, monomethyl diethylene glycol ether, monoethyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl diethylene glycol ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, monomethyl propylene glycol ether, monoethyl propylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl propylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl propylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl propylene glycol ether, monomethyl dipropylene glycol ether, monoethyl dipropylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl dipropylene glycol ether and mono-iso-propyl dipropylene glycol ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dhnetyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane and mixtures thereof.
[0193] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and mixtures thereof.
[0194] In a preferred embodiment, the revitalizing composition includes one or more glycols selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol and combinations thereof.
[0195] The total amount of one or more water-soluble solvents in the revitalizing compositions, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 20% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, relative to the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include approximately 0.1 to about 15% by weight, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, about 0.5 to about 15% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, or about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, based on the total weight of the revitalizing compositions. Various ingredients
[0196] Revitalizing compositions optionally include one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the revitalizing compositions and that do not disrupt or materially affect the fundamental and innovative properties of the compositions. Non-limiting examples of ingredients include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), compositional colorants, etc.In various embodiments, the various ingredients are selected from among preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, composition colorants, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of this disclosure, a "composition colorant" is a compound that colors the composition but does not have an appreciable coloring effect on hair. In other words, the composition colorant is included to give the composition color for aesthetic purposes but is not intended to impart coloring properties to hair. Hair gels, for example, may be found in a variety of different colors (e.g., light blue, light pink, etc.), but applying the hair gel to the hair does not visibly change the hair color.
[0197] The total quantity of one or more miscellaneous ingredients in the revitalizing compositions, if present, will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, relative to the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the revitalizing compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 12% by weight. weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 2 to about 12% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, or about 2 to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the revitalizing compositions. Processes I. Pre-processing Routine
[0198] According to the said "pretreatment routine," a strengthening composition is applied to the hair before bleaching or oxidatively coloring it. The strengthening composition is applied to the hair and left on the hair for an initial period. The strengthening composition may be applied to wet, damp, or dry hair. Furthermore, in some embodiments, the hair is washed with shampoo before applying the strengthening composition. After rinsing the shampoo from the hair, the hair is wet or damp. The strengthening composition is then applied to the wet or damp hair and left on the hair for a certain period.For example, the fortifying composition can be applied immediately after rinsing the shampoo from the hair or within approximately 1 hour, 45 minutes, 30 minutes, 15 minutes, 10 minutes, 8 minutes, or 5 minutes after rinsing the shampoo from the hair.
[0199] The strengthening composition is applied to the hair and left on the hair for an initial period, which may vary. However, in some embodiments, the strengthening composition remains on the hair for a period of approximately 1 minute to approximately 1 hour. In other embodiments, the strengthening composition remains on the hair for a period of approximately 1 to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 30 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 20 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 15 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 10 minutes, approximately 2 minutes to approximately 1 hour, approximately 2 to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 30 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 20 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 15 minutes, or approximately 2 to approximately 10 minutes. The fortifying composition and the hair can be massaged or otherwise manipulated to ensure that the fortifying composition comes into contact with most of the hair.
[0200] At the end of the first period, the strengthening composition is not rinsed from the hair. Without rinsing the strengthening composition from the hair, a bleaching or oxidative coloring composition is applied to the hair, i.e., the Hair is subjected to a bleaching or oxidative coloring procedure. The bleaching or coloring solution remains on the hair for the desired duration to ensure an acceptable degree of bleaching or coloring. For example, the bleaching or oxidative coloring solution may remain on the hair for approximately 5 minutes to approximately 2 hours, approximately 5 minutes to approximately 1.5 hours, approximately 5 minutes to approximately 1 hour, approximately 5 minutes to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 10 minutes to approximately 2 hours, approximately 10 minutes to approximately 1.5 hours, approximately 10 minutes to approximately 1 hour, or approximately 10 minutes to approximately 45 minutes.The bleaching or oxidative coloring solution remains on the hair for a sufficient time to achieve the desired degree of lightening or coloring. This time will vary depending on the concentration of the bleaching or oxidative coloring solution, the desired degree of lightening or coloring, the original hair color, the hair's resistance to bleaching and oxidative coloring, and other factors. Once the bleaching or oxidative coloring procedure is complete, the hair is cleansed and rinsed. The bleaching or oxidative coloring solution may be initially rinsed from the hair to remove a significant portion of the solution, followed by shampooing, and then the shampoo is rinsed out. In all cases, after shampooing and rinsing, a conditioning treatment is applied.
[0201] The conditioning composition is typically applied to the hair shortly after rinsing out the shampoo, and therefore the hair is wet or damp. For example, the conditioning composition may be applied to the hair approximately 1 hour after rinsing out the shampoo. In other embodiments, the conditioning composition is applied to the hair within 45 minutes, 30 minutes, 20 minutes, 15 minutes, 10 minutes, or 5 minutes after rinsing out the shampoo.
[0202] The conditioning composition is applied to the hair and left on the hair for a second period, which will vary. However, in some embodiments, the conditioning composition remains on the hair for a period of approximately 1 minute to approximately 1 hour. In other embodiments, the conditioning composition remains on the hair for a period of approximately 1 to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 30 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 20 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 15 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 10 minutes, approximately 2 minutes to approximately 1 hour, approximately 2 to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 30 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 20 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 15 minutes, or approximately 2 to approximately 10 minutes. The conditioning composition and the hair can be massaged or otherwise manipulated to ensure that the conditioning composition comes into contact with most of the hair.
[0203] After the second time has elapsed, the conditioning formula is rinsed from the hair. After rinsing the conditioning formula, the hair is revitalized and strengthened. The hair also exhibits improved curl retention, less frizz, and less proneness to flyaways. The process (routine) prevents, reduces, or corrects hair damage caused by the bleaching or oxidative coloring process.
[0204] In various embodiments, the processes described above (the pretreatment routine) strengthen the hair, improve curl retention, prevent frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair to a greater extent than performing the processes (the pretreatment routine) without pretreating the hair with the fortifying composition before bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair.
[0205] In various embodiments, the processes described above (the pretreatment routine) strengthen hair, improve curl retention, prevent frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative coloring of hair to a greater extent than the embodiment of the process (pretreatment routine) with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of citric acid, a salt thereof or a combination thereof (i)(a) but is otherwise identical to the fortifying composition of this disclosure.
[0206] In various embodiments, the processes described above (the pretreatment routine) improve curl retention, prevent frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative coloring of hair to a greater extent than the embodiment of the process (pretreatment routine) with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of cyclodextrin, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof of (i)(b) but is otherwise identical to the fortifying composition of this disclosure.
[0207] In various embodiments, the processes described above (the pretreatment routine) strengthen hair, improve curl retention, prevent frizz, and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative hair coloring to a greater extent than the embodiment of the processes with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of citric acid, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof, as described in (i)(a), but otherwise identical to the fortifying composition; and strengthen hair, improve curl retention, prevent frizz, and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative hair coloring to a greater extent than the embodiment of the process with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of cyclodextrin, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof from (i)(b), but is otherwise identical to the fortifying composition of this disclosure. II. Post-processing routine
[0208] According to the said "post-treatment routine," a strengthening composition is not applied to the hair for bleaching or oxidative coloring prior to bleaching or oxidative coloring. Unlike the pre-treatment routine mentioned above, in the post-treatment routine, strengthening compositions are not applied to the hair until the hair has been bleached or oxidatively colored with a bleaching or oxidative coloring composition.
[0209] The bleaching or oxidative coloring composition can be applied to wet, damp, or dry hair. However, in some embodiments, the hair is shampooed before applying the bleaching or oxidative coloring composition. After rinsing the shampoo from the hair, the hair is wet or damp. The bleaching or oxidative coloring composition is then applied to the wet or damp hair and left on the hair for a specified period.For example, the bleaching or oxidative coloring composition can be applied immediately after rinsing the hair shampoo or within approximately 1 hour, 45 minutes, 30 minutes, 15 minutes, 10 minutes, 8 minutes, or 5 minutes after rinsing the hair shampoo.
[0210] The bleaching or coloring composition remains on the hair as required to ensure an acceptable degree of bleaching or coloring. For example, the oxidative bleaching or coloring composition may remain on the hair for approximately 5 minutes to approximately 2 hours, approximately 5 minutes to approximately 1.5 hours, approximately 5 minutes to approximately 1 hour, approximately 5 minutes to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 10 minutes to approximately 2 hours, approximately 10 minutes to approximately 1.5 hours, approximately 10 minutes to approximately 1 hour, or approximately 10 minutes to approximately 45 minutes.The bleaching or oxidative coloring solution remains on the hair for a sufficient time to achieve the desired degree of lightening or coloring. This time will vary depending on the concentration of the bleaching or oxidative coloring solution, the desired degree of lightening or coloring, the original hair color, the hair's resistance to oxidative bleaching and coloring, and other factors. Once the bleaching or oxidative coloring procedure is complete, the hair is cleansed and rinsed. The bleaching or oxidative coloring solution may initially be rinsed from the hair to... Remove most of the bleaching or oxidative coloring product and then shampoo thoroughly, rinsing the hair. In all cases, after shampooing and rinsing, apply the strengthening treatment.
[0211] The strengthening composition is first applied to the hair and left on the hair for an initial period, which may vary. However, in some embodiments, the first application of the strengthening composition remains on the hair for a period of approximately 1 minute to approximately 1 hour. In other embodiments, the first application of the strengthening composition remains on the hair for a period of approximately 1 to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 30 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 20 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 15 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 10 minutes, approximately 2 minutes to approximately 1 hour, approximately 2 to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 30 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 20 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 15 minutes, or approximately 2 to approximately 10 minutes.The first application of the fortifying composition and the hair can be massaged or otherwise manipulated to ensure that the first application of the fortifying composition comes into contact with most of the hair.
[0212] At the end of the first application time, the first application of the strengthening composition is not rinsed from the hair. Without rinsing the first application of the strengthening composition, the hair is washed with shampoo. The shampoo can be applied directly to the hair to which the strengthening composition has been applied; that is, the shampoo can be layered over the strengthening composition on the hair. Alternatively, the hair can be rinsed before applying the shampoo. Regardless, after rinsing the shampoo from the hair, the hair is treated with a second application of the strengthening composition for a second application time, which may vary. However, in some embodiments, the second application of the strengthening composition remains on the hair for a period of approximately 1 minute to approximately 1 hour.In other embodiments, the second application of the strengthening composition remains on the hair for a period of approximately 1 to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 30 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 20 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 15 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 10 minutes, approximately 2 minutes to approximately 1 hour, approximately 2 to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 30 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 20 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 15 minutes, or approximately 2 to approximately 10 minutes. The second application of the strengthening composition and the hair may be massaged or otherwise manipulated to ensure that the second application of the strengthening composition comes into contact with most of the hair.
[0213] At the end of the second application time, the second application of the strengthening composition is not rinsed from the hair. Without rinsing the second application of the strengthening composition, a conditioning composition is applied to the hair and left on the hair for a third application time, which will vary. However, in some embodiments, the conditioning composition remains on the hair for a period of approximately 1 minute to approximately 1 hour. In other embodiments, the conditioning composition remains on the hair for a period of approximately 1 to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 30 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 20 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 15 minutes, approximately 1 to approximately 10 minutes, approximately 2 minutes to approximately 1 hour, approximately 2 to approximately 45 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 30 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 20 minutes, approximately 2 to approximately 15 minutes, or approximately 2 to approximately 10 minutes.The conditioning formula and the hair can be massaged or otherwise manipulated to ensure that the conditioning formula comes into contact with most of the hair.
[0214] After the third time period has expired, the conditioning composition is rinsed from the hair. After rinsing the conditioning composition from the hair, the hair is revitalized and strengthened. The hair also exhibits better curl retention, less frizz, and less proneness to flyaways. The process (routine) prevents, reduces, or corrects hair damage caused by the bleaching or oxidative coloring process.
[0215] In various embodiments, the processes described above (the post-treatment routine) strengthen the hair, improve curl retention, prevent frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair to a greater extent than performing the processes (the post-treatment routine) without pre-treating the hair with the fortifying composition before bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair.
[0216] In various embodiments, the processes described above (the post-treatment routine) strengthen hair, improve curl retention, prevent frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative coloring of hair to a greater extent than the embodiment of the process (post-treatment routine) with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of citric acid, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof of (i)(a) but is otherwise identical to the fortifying composition of this disclosure.
[0217] In various embodiments, the processes described above (the post-treatment routine) improve curl retention, prevent frizz, and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative hair coloring to a greater extent than the implementation of the process (post-treatment routine). treatment) with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of cyclodextrin, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof of (i)(b) but is otherwise identical to the fortifying composition of this disclosure.
[0218] In various embodiments, the processes described above (the post-treatment routine) strengthen the hair, improve curl retention, prevent frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair to a greater extent than the embodiment of the processes with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of citric acid, a salt thereof or a combination thereof of (i)(a) but is otherwise identical to the fortifying composition;and strengthens hair, improves curl retention, prevents frizz and / or corrects hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative hair coloring to a greater extent than carrying out the process with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of cyclodextrin, a salt thereof or a combination thereof of (i)(b) but is otherwise identical to the fortifying composition of this disclosure. ; Methods of implementation
[0219] In various embodiments, the processes according to this disclosure include, consist essentially of, or consist of: i. the application of a strengthening composition to the hair for bleaching or oxidative coloring purposes and leaving the strengthening composition on the hair for an initial period of approximately 1 minute to approximately 1 hour, preferably approximately 2 minutes to approximately 30 minutes, more preferably approximately 2 minutes to approximately 10 minutes, the strengthening composition comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of: a. optionally, about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1.5 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 5% by weight of citric acid, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof; b. about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 4% by weight of cyclodextrin, a derivative thereof, or a combination thereof, wherein the cyclodextrin or its derivative is preferably cyclodextrin or a derivative of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, γ-cyclodextrin, methyl derivatives of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin or γ-cyclodextrin, or mixtures thereof, more preferably β-cyclodextrin;
[0220] wherein a combined total quantity of (a) and (b) is about 2 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 6% by weight; a. about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerin, or combinations thereof, in which more preferably at least one of the one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms is glycerin; b. about 60 to about 96% by weight, preferably about 75 to about 95% by weight, more preferably about 85 to about 96% by weight of water; c. Optionally, about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4% by weight of one or more cationic polysaccharides, preferably wherein the one or more cationic polysaccharides are selected from cationic guars, cationic celluloses (also called cationic cellulosic polymers), cationic starches, cationic gums, cationic calloses, cationic xylans, cationic galactomannans, or a combination thereof, more preferably, the one or more cationic polysaccharides are selected from cationic guars (also called cationic guar derivatives), preferably wherein the cationic guars are selected from cationic hydroxyethyl guar, cationic hydroxypropyl guar, cationic hydroxybutyl guar, and carboxyalkyl guars cationic, including cationic carboxymethyl guar,cationic alkylcarboxy guars such as cationic carboxypropyl guar, cationic carboxybutyl guar, cationic carboxymethylethyl guar, in particular, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or a combination thereof; d. Optionally, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight of one or more polar oils, wherein, preferably, the one or more polar oils are selected from non-volatile polar oils, more preferably wherein the one or more polar oils are selected from vegetable oils, for example, castor oil, corn oil, seed oil, peanut oil, bran oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, hydrogenated soybean oil and a hydrogenated vegetable oil; and triglyceride vegetable oils known as medium-chain triglycerides such as coconut oil or triglyceride vegetable oils derived from palm kernel oil. In addition, certain special vegetable oils may be produced from a wide variety of vegetable seeds and grains. Non-limiting examples of these oils include malt oil, pumpkin seed oil, flaxseed oil, grapeseed oil, blackberry seed oil, annatto oil, peanut oil or a combination thereof; e. optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.05 to about 3% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein, preferably, at least one of the one or more nonionic surfactants is a polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant, more preferably, wherein the one or more nonionic surfactants are selected from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl group, with an ethylene oxide (EO) number of motifs from 2 to 200, for example, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cocoate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil; and f. optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, special materials, etc.), emollients, compositional colorants, or a mixture thereof;
[0221] in which all percentages by weight of (i) are based on a total weight of the fortifying composition; i. after the first treatment period, without rinsing the hair strengthening composition, the application of a bleaching or oxidative coloring composition to the hair and the bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair; ii. after bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair, the removal of the bleaching or oxidative coloring composition of the hair by washing the hair with shampoo; iii. within approximately 1 hour, preferably within 30 minutes, more preferably within 10 minutes of rinsing the hair, the application of a conditioning composition to the hair and leaving the conditioning composition on the hair for a second period of approximately 1 minute to approximately 1 hour, preferably approximately 2 minutes to approximately 30 minutes, more preferably approximately 2 minutes to approximately 10 minutes, the conditioning composition comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of: a. about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 5% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants, preferably wherein the one or more cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethylimidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenami-doethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylaminearachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate; , b. about 1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 15% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds; wherein the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds preferably include:
[0222] (i) about 1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 10% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, preferably wherein the one or more fatty alcohols are selected from those having 14 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably wherein the one or more fatty alcohols are selected from decyl alcohol, one-decyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, becyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a combination thereof; and
[0223] (ii) about 1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight of about one or several additional non-silicone compounds, preferably wherein the one or more additional non-silicone compounds are selected from non-silicone oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty ester oils, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof; a. 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones, preferably one or more amino-functionalized silicones selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof; and b. 50 to about 90% by weight of water, preferably about 65 to about 90% by weight, more preferably about 75 to about 85% by weight of water; c. optionally, about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more thickening agents, preferably wherein the one or more thickening agents are water-soluble thickening polymers, preferably selected from polysaccharide thickening agents, carboxylic acid polymers, cross-linked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, gums, or a combination thereof, more preferably wherein one or more thickening agents are selected from polyvinyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polymethacrylate, polyacrylic acid glycerin ester, carboxyvinyl polymer, polyacrylamide, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinyl sulfone, maleic acid copolymer, polyethylene oxide, polydialyl amine, ethylene imine,Cellulose derivatives (e.g., carboxymethyl cellulose, methylcellulose, methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate) and starch derivatives (e.g., starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, and hydroxypropyl starch), or a combination thereof; d. optionally from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from glycerin, C2-C6 monoalcohols, polyols, glycols, or a mixture thereof, more preferably selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerin, or a combination thereof; and e. optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, special materials, etc.), emollients, compositional colorants, or a mixture thereof;
[0224] wherein all percentages by weight are based on a total weight of the revitalizing composition; and i. Rinsing out the hair conditioning composition after the second application.
[0225] In one embodiment, the processes described above (the pretreatment routine) strengthen the hair, improve curl retention, prevent frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair to a greater extent than performing the processes (the pretreatment routine) without pretreating the hair with the fortifying composition before bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair.
[0226] In another embodiment, the processes described above (the pretreatment routine) strengthen hair, improve curl retention, prevent frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative coloring of hair to a greater extent than the embodiment of the process (pretreatment routine) with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of citric acid, a salt thereof or a combination thereof of (i)(a) but is otherwise identical to the fortifying composition of this disclosure.
[0227] In another embodiment, the processes described above (the pretreatment routine) improve curl retention, prevent frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative coloring of hair to a greater extent than performing the process (pretreatment routine) with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of cyclodextrin, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof of (i)(b) but is otherwise identical to the fortifying composition of this disclosure.
[0228] In yet another embodiment, the processes described above (the pretreatment routine) strengthen the hair, improve curl retention, prevent frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair to a greater extent than the embodiment of the processes with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of citric acid, a salt thereof or a combination thereof of (i)(a) but is otherwise identical to the fortifying composition;and strengthens hair, improves curl retention, prevents frizz and / or corrects hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative hair coloring to a greater extent than carrying out the process with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of cyclodextrin, a salt thereof or a combination thereof of (i)(b) but is otherwise identical to the fortifying composition of this disclosure. ;
[0229] In other embodiments, the processes according to this disclosure include or consist of: i. the application of a bleaching or oxidative coloring composition to the hair and the bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair, followed by the cleansing of the bleaching or oxidative coloring composition from the hair with a shampoo; ii. within approximately 1 hour, preferably within approximately 30 minutes, more preferably within 10 minutes of rinsing the shampoo from the hair, the application of a first application of a fortifying composition to the hair, and leaving the first application of the fortifying composition on the hair for an initial period of approximately 1 minute to approximately 1 hour, preferably from approximately 1 minute to approximately 30 minutes, more preferably from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 10 minutes, the fortifying composition comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of: a. optionally, about 1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1.5 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 5% by weight of citric acid, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof; b. about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 4% by weight of cyclodextrin, a derivative thereof, or a combination thereof, wherein the cyclodextrin or its derivative is preferably a cyclodextrin or a derivative of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin, γ-cyclodextrin, methyl derivatives of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin or γ-cyclodextrin, or mixtures thereof, more preferably β-cyclodextrin;
[0230] wherein a combined total quantity of (a) and (b) is about 2 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 6% by weight; a. about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerin, or combinations thereof, in which more preferably at least one of the one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms is glycerin; b. about 60 to about 96% by weight, preferably about 75 to about 95% by weight, more preferably about 85 to about 96% by weight of water; c. Optionally, about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4% by weight of one or more cationic polysaccharides, preferably wherein the one or more cationic polysaccharides are selected from cationic guars, cationic celluloses (also called cationic cellulosic polymers), cationic starches, cationic gums, cationic calloses, cationic xylans, cationic galactomannans, or a combination thereof, more preferably, the one or more cationic polysaccharides are selected from cationic guars (also called cationic guar derivatives), preferably wherein the cationic guars are selected from cationic hydroxyethyl guar, cationic hydroxypropyl guar, cationic hydroxybutyl guar, and carboxyalkyl guars cationic, including cationic carboxymethyl guar,cationic alkylcarboxy guars such as cationic carboxypropyl guar, cationic carboxybutyl guar, cationic carboxymethylethyl guar, in particular, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or a combination thereof; d. optionally, from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight of one or more polar oils, wherein, preferably, the one or more polar oils are selected from non-volatile polar oils, more preferably in which the one or more polar oils are selected from vegetable oils, for example, castor oil, corn oil, seed oil, peanut oil, bran oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, and a hydrogenated vegetable oil; and triglyceride vegetable oils known as medium-chain triglycerides such as coconut oil or triglyceride vegetable oils derived from palm kernel oil. In addition, certain specialty vegetable oils may be produced from a wide variety of vegetable seeds and grains.Non-limiting examples of these oils include malt oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, grapeseed oil, blackberry seed oil, annatto oil, peanut oil or a combination thereof; e. optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.05 to about 3% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein, preferably, at least one of the one or more nonionic surfactants is a polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant, more preferably, wherein the one or more nonionic surfactants are selected from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl group, with an ethylene oxide (EO) number of motifs from 2 to 200, for example, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cocoate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil; and f. Optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, special materials, etc.), emollients, compositional colorants, or a mixture of these;
[0231] in which all percentages by weight are based on a total weight of the fortifying composition; i. at the end of the first period, washing the hair with shampoo; ii. within approximately 1 hour, preferably 30 minutes, more preferably 10 minutes after rinsing the shampoo from the hair, the application of a second application of the fortifying composition to the hair and leaving the second application of the fortifying composition on the hair for a second period of approximately 1 minute to approximately 1 hour, preferably approximately 1 minute to approximately 30 minutes, more preferably approximately 2 minutes to approximately 10 minutes; iii. Upon expiration of the second duration, without rinsing the second application of the hair strengthening composition, the application of a conditioning composition to the hair and leaving the conditioning composition on the hair for a third duration of approximately 1 minute to approximately 1 hour, approximately 1 minute to approximately 30 minutes, or approximately 2 minutes to approximately 10 minutes, the conditioning composition comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of: a. about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 5% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants, preferably wherein the one or more cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linolea-midopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, be-henamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachi-damidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, ara-chidamidoethyldiethylaminearachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and a mixture thereof, more preferably in which the cationic surfactants are selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, methosulfate, cetrimonium, behentrimonium methosulfate; b. about 1 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 15% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds; wherein the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds preferably include:
[0232] (i) about 1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 3 to about 10% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols, preferably wherein the one or more fatty alcohols are selected from those having 14 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably wherein the one or more fatty alcohols are selected from decyl alcohol, one-decyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, becyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a combination thereof; and
[0233] (ii) about 1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 2 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight of about one or more additional non-silicone compounds, preferably wherein the one or more additional non-silicone compounds are selected from non-silicone oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty ester oils, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof; a. 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones, preferably one or more amino-functionalized silicones selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof; and b. 50 to about 90% by weight of water, preferably about 65 to about 90% by weight, more preferably about 75 to about 85% by weight of water; c. Optionally, about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more thickening agents, preferably in which the one or more thickening agents are water-soluble thickening polymers, preferably selected from polysaccharide thickening agents, carboxylic acid polymers, and polyacrylate polymers crosslinked, polyacrylamide polymers, gums, or a combination thereof, more preferably, wherein one or more thickening agents are selected from polyvinyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polymethacrylate, polyacrylic acid glycerin ester, carboxyvinyl polymer, polyacrylamide, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinyl sulfone, maleic acid copolymer, polyethylene oxide, polydiallyl amine, ethylene imine, cellulose derivatives (e.g., carboxymethyl cellulose, methylcellulose, methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium salt of cellulose sulfate) and starch derivatives (e.g., starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch), or a combination thereof; d. optionally from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, preferably wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from glycerin, C2-C6 monoalcohols, polyols, glycols, or a mixture thereof, more preferably selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerin, or a combination thereof; and e. optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably one or more miscellaneous ingredients selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, special materials, etc.), emollients, compositional colorants, or a mixture thereof;
[0234] in which all percentages by weight are based on a total weight of the revitalizing composition; and i. at the end of the third duration, rinse out the fortifying composition and the hair revitalizing composition.
[0235] In one embodiment, the processes described above (the post-treatment routine) strengthen the hair, improve curl retention, prevent frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair to a greater extent than performing the processes (the post-treatment routine) without pre-treating the hair with the fortifying composition before bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair.
[0236] In another embodiment, the processes described above (the post-treatment routine) strengthen hair, improve curl retention, prevent frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative coloring of hair to a greater extent than the embodiment of the process (post-treatment routine) with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of citric acid, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof of (i)(a) but is otherwise identical to the fortifying composition of this disclosure.
[0237] In another embodiment, the processes described above (the post-treatment routine) improve curl retention, prevent frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative coloring of hair to a greater extent than the embodiment of the process (post-treatment routine) with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of cyclodextrin, a salt thereof, or a combination thereof of (i)(b) but is otherwise identical to the fortifying composition of this disclosure.
[0238] In yet another embodiment, the processes described above (the post-treatment routine) strengthen the hair, improve curl retention, prevent frizz and / or correct hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair to a greater extent than the embodiment of the processes with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of citric acid, a salt thereof or a combination thereof of (i)(a) but is otherwise identical to the fortifying composition;and strengthens hair, improves curl retention, prevents frizz and / or corrects hair damage caused by bleaching or oxidative hair coloring to a greater extent than carrying out the process with a comparative fortifying composition devoid of cyclodextrin, a salt thereof or a combination thereof of (i)(b) but is otherwise identical to the fortifying composition of this disclosure. ;
[0239] An implementation of this disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. These examples are intended to illustrate the technology but are not limiting in nature. EXAMPLE 1 (Forming compositions)
[0240] [Tables 1] ABC (a) Citric acid CITRIC ACID 2.5 2.5 2.5 (b) Cyclodextrin CYCLODEXTRIN 1.5 1.5 1.5 Total (a)+(b) 4 4 4 Weight ratio (a):(b) 1.7:1 1.7:1 1.7:1 Molar ratio (a):(b) 10:1 10:1 10:1 (c) Polyol GLYCERIN 1 1 (e) Cationic polysaccharide HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR CHLORIDE HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM 1 1 (f) Polar oil GLYCINE SOYA OIL (SOYBEAN) 1 (g) Non-ionic emulsifier PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 1 (h) Miscellaneous SODIUM HYDROXIDE <5 <5 < 5 (d) WATER 95.8 94 92 pH 3-4 3-4 3-4 EXAMPLE 2 (Revitalization composition)
[0241] [Tables2] D (a) Cationic surfactant: Cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and behentrimonium methosulfate 3.1 (b) Fatty compound: Zea mays (corn) germ oil, iso-dodecane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, lauryl laurate, hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer, bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl diliterate dimer, 4.5 Cetearyl alcohol 6 (c) Silicone: Amodimethicone and aminopropyl dimethicone 1.3 (e) Thickener: PVP and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 0.9 (f) Water-soluble solvent BUTYLENE GLYCOL AND ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 1.2 (g) Miscellaneous1 <5 (d) WATER 80.8 1. Plant extracts, compositional colorants, pH adjusters, proteins or hydrolyzed proteins, perfumes, preservatives, active ingredients, surfactants other than cationic surfactants, etc. EXAMPLE 3 (Pretreatment with fortifying compositions)
[0242] Tests were conducted to investigate how the compositions and processes described throughout this disclosure affect the integrity of bleached or oxidatively colored hair. Strands of Caucasian hair (2 gm), curl pattern 4 (CP4), were washed with a standard shampoo prior to treatment. The bleaching compositions were prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder (9% hydrogen peroxide) and a developer (30 Volume) in a ratio of 1:1.5 (Bleaching Powder:Developer (1:1.5)) with the ingredients listed below. Bleaching powder Ingredients: Potassium persulfate, sodium silicate, sodium stearate, magnesium carbonate hydroxide, ammonium persulfate, sodium metasilicate, Cyamopsis tetragonolobus gum / guar gum, liquid paraffin mineral oil, ultramarine, sodium lauryl sulfate, proline, disodium threonine, and EDTA Developer (30 V) Ingredients: aqua / water, hydrogen peroxide (9%), cetearyl alcohol, trideceth-2 carboxamide MEA, ceteareth-25, glycerin, tetrasodium etidronate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, sodium silicate, phosphoric acid
[0243] After cleaning, the hair strands were treated according to one of the following routines:
[0244] Control: The hair strands were oxidatively bleached. A standard bleaching powder and a developer (30 V) were mixed in a 1:1.5 ratio (Bleaching Powder:Developer (1:1.5)) to prepare the bleaching composition. Ten grams of the hair bleaching composition were applied to each hair strand. The hair bleaching composition was left on the hair for 50 minutes. After 50 minutes, the hair bleaching composition was rinsed from the hair, and the hair was washed again with standard shampoo. The bleached hair strands served as a control underwent no further treatment.
[0245] Comparison 1: The hair strands were treated as described above for the control. However, after cleansing the bleached hair with standard shampoo (and rinsing the shampoo from the hair), the conditioning composition from Example 2 was immediately applied to wet or damp hair and left on the hair for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, the conditioning composition was rinsed from the hair.
[0246] Inventive A: Prior to oxidative bleaching, the hair strands were pretreated with the inventive strengthening composition A of Example 1. The inventive strengthening composition A was applied to the hair strands (0.4 g per gram of hair), massaged into the hair strands for 1 minute, and left on the hair strands for an additional 5 minutes. Immediately after the additional 5 minutes, the hair strands were bleached as described for the control. After washing the bleached hair with standard shampoo (and rinsing the hair), the conditioning composition of Example 2 was immediately applied. Applied to wet or damp hair and left on for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, the conditioning treatment was rinsed out of the hair.
[0247] Inventive B: Before oxidative bleaching of the hair, the hair strands were pretreated with the inventive strengthening composition B of Example 1. The inventive strengthening composition B was applied to the hair strands (0.4 g per gram of hair), massaged into the hair strands for 1 minute, and left on the hair strands for an additional 5 minutes. Immediately after the additional 5 minutes, the hair strands were bleached as described for the control. After washing the bleached hair with standard shampoo (and rinsing the hair), the conditioning composition of Example 2 was immediately applied to the wet or damp hair and left on the hair for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, the conditioning composition was rinsed from the hair.
[0248] Inventive C: Before oxidative bleaching of the hair, the hair strands were pretreated with the inventive strengthening composition B of Example 1. The inventive strengthening composition B was applied to the hair strands (0.4 g per gram of hair), massaged into the hair strands for 1 minute, and left on the hair strands for an additional 5 minutes. Immediately after the additional 5 minutes, the hair strands were bleached as described for the control. After washing the bleached hair with standard shampoo (and rinsing the hair), the conditioning composition of Example 2 was immediately applied to the wet or damp hair and left on the hair for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, the conditioning composition was rinsed from the hair.
[0249] Hair treated according to the protocols described above was analyzed by miniature tensile tests (Young's modulus and tensile strength) and by differential scanning calorimetry (thermal integrity). A one-way analysis of variance using SPSS software with a 95% confidence interval was used to analyze significant differences in the DSC and MTT results. Hair frizz was also assessed. Elastic modulus and breaking stress
[0250] The hair was analyzed using miniature tensile testers (Miniature Tensile Tester, MTT-675, Dia-Stron Ltd). The MTT was used to measure the Young's modulus, i.e., the slope of the initial portion of the stress-strain curve, which is fitted to make a cross-section, representing a measure of the hair's spring-like structure. It also measures the breaking stress, which is the total force required to break the hair fiber. The test results were subjected to statistical analysis using Tukey-Kramer post-hoc tests with k=3 was used to identify and exclude significant outliers. Statistical significance was analyzed using SPSS software with a 95% confidence level. The results are presented in the table below and the corresponding figures. The modulus of elasticity represents the elastic properties of the fiber. Higher values indicate greater elasticity, suggesting that the hair is less brittle due to strengthening and reduced dryness and damage.
[0251] [Tables3] Results MTT Control Cl IA LB LC Modulus of elasticity (MPa) 1072 + 192 1021 + 274 1213 + 142 1660 + 316 1244 + 121 Statistical significance (p<0.05) aabcb Tensile strength (MPa) 131 + 24 136 + 22 148 + 15 178 + 27 148 + 19 Statistical significance (p< 0.05) aabcb
[0252] The statistical significance of the modulus of elasticity is as follows: LB > LA = LC > Control = CL The statistical significance of the breaking stress is as follows: IB > LA = LC > Control = CL The data show that inventive routine B performs better than inventive routines A and C; and that inventive routines A and C perform better than the control and comparative routine 1.
[0253] Protein thermal integrity / crosslinking density
[0254] The hair was analyzed by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC, DSC-2500, TA Instruments). DSC was used to measure the denaturation temperature, which is a measure of the thermal stability of proteins in the hair and is a representation of protein cross-linking density. Higher values represent greater thermal integrity, which is an indication of greater cross-linking (stronger hair).
[0255] [Tables4] Results DSC Control Cl IA LB LC Crosslinking Density (°C) Mean ± standard deviation 143.8 ± 0.1 146.9 ± 0.2 155.9 ± 0.1 151.1 ± 0.2 155 + 0.3 Statistical significance (p<0.05) abdcd
[0256] The statistical significance of the crosslinking density is as follows: LA = LC > IB > Cl > Control. The inventive routines LA and LC performed better than the inventive routine LB; and the inventive routine LB performed better than the comparative routine Cl, which performed better than the control. Frizz tests
[0257] The strands treated according to the protocols outlined above were placed in a humidity chamber at 25°C and 80% relative humidity. After 4 hours, the samples were removed from the humidity chamber and visually analyzed. Photographs of the hair strands are shown in [Fig. 1]. The results show that the hair pretreated with the strengthening compositions of Example 1 suffered less from frizz and retained better shape and curls. EXAMPLE 6 (Post-treatment with fortifying compositions)
[0258] Tests were conducted to investigate how the compositions and processes described throughout this disclosure affect the integrity of bleached or oxidatively colored hair. Strands of Caucasian hair (2 gm), curl pattern 4 (CP4), were washed with a standard shampoo prior to treatment. The bleaching compositions were prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder (9% hydrogen peroxide) and a developer (30 Volume) in a ratio of 1:1.5 (Bleaching Powder:Developer (1:1.5)) with the ingredients listed below. Bleaching powder Potassium persulfate, sodium silicate, sodium stearate, magnesium carbonate hydroxide, ammonium persulfate, sodium metasilicate, Cyamopsis tetragonolobus gum / guar gum, liquid paraffin mineral oil, ultramarine. Sodium lauryl sulfate, proline EDTA disodium threonine Developer (30 V) Aqua / Water, hydrogen peroxide (9%), cetearyl alcohol, trideceth-2 carboxamide MEA, ceteareth-25, glycerin, tetrasodium etidronate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, sodium silicate, phosphoric acid
[0259] After cleaning, the hair strands were treated according to one of the following routines:
[0260] Control: The hair strands were oxidatively bleached. A standard bleaching powder and a developer (30 V) were mixed in a 1:1.5 ratio (Bleaching Powder:Developer (1:1.5)) to prepare the bleaching composition. Ten grams of the hair bleaching composition were applied to each hair strand. The hair bleaching composition was left on the hair for 50 minutes. After 50 minutes, the hair bleaching composition was rinsed from the hair, and the hair was washed with shampoo. The bleached hair strands served as a control underwent no further treatment.
[0261] Comparison 1: The hair strands were bleached as described above for the control. However, after washing the bleached hair with shampoo (and rinsing the shampoo from the hair), the conditioning composition from Example 2 was immediately applied to wet or damp hair and left on the hair for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, the conditioning composition was rinsed from the hair.
[0262] Inventive A: The hair strands were bleached as described above for the control. However, after washing the bleached hair with shampoo (and rinsing the shampoo from the hair), the inventive strengthening composition A was applied to the hair strands (0.4 g per gram of hair), massaged into the hair strands for 1 minute, and left on the hair strands for an additional 5 minutes. After the additional 5 minutes, the hair strands were washed with a standard shampoo and the shampoo was rinsed from the hair. Immediately after rinsing the hair, the inventive strengthening composition A was applied to the hair strands again (0.4 g per gram of hair) (a second time), massaged into the hair strands for 1 minute, and left on the hair strands for an additional 5 minutes.Immediately after the additional 5 minutes, without rinsing the inventive fortifying composition A of the hair, the revitalizing composition of example 2 was applied. applied to the hair, left on the hair for 5 minutes, and rinsed out of the hair.
[0263] Inventive B: The hair strands were bleached as described above for the control. However, after washing the bleached hair with shampoo (and rinsing the shampoo from the hair), the inventive strengthening composition B of Example 1 was applied to the hair strands (0.4 g per gram of hair), massaged into the hair strands for 1 minute, and left on the hair strands for a further 5 minutes. Immediately after the additional 5 minutes, the hair strands were washed with a standard shampoo and the shampoo was rinsed from the hair. Immediately after rinsing the hair, the inventive strengthening composition B was applied to the hair strands again (0.4 g per gram of hair) (a second time), massaged into the hair strands for 1 minute, and left on the hair strands for a further 5 minutes.Immediately after the additional 5 minutes, without rinsing the inventive fortifying composition B from the hair, the revitalizing composition of example 2 was applied to the hair, left on the hair for 5 minutes, and rinsed from the hair.
[0264] Inventive C: The hair strands were bleached as described above for the control. However, after washing the bleached hair with shampoo (and rinsing the hair), the inventive strengthening composition C of Example 1 was applied to the hair strands (0.4 g per gram of hair), massaged into the hair strands for 1 minute, and left on the hair strands for a further 5 minutes. Immediately after the additional 5 minutes, the hair strands were washed with a standard shampoo and the shampoo was rinsed from the hair. Immediately after rinsing the hair, the inventive strengthening composition C was applied to the hair strands again (0.4 g per gram of hair) (a second time), massaged into the hair strands for 1 minute, and left on the hair strands for a further 5 minutes.Immediately after the additional 5 minutes, without rinsing the inventive fortifying composition C from the hair, the revitalizing composition of example 2 was applied to the hair, left on the hair for 5 minutes, and rinsed from the hair.
[0265] The hair treated according to the protocols described above was analyzed by miniature tensile tests (modulus of elasticity and tensile strength) and by differential scanning calorimetry (thermal integrity). A one-way analysis of variance was used to determine statistical significance between the control and the inventive composition at a 95% confidence level. Hair frizz was also evaluated. Elastic modulus and breaking stress
[0266] The hair was analyzed using miniature tensile testers (Miniature Tensile Tester, MTT-675, Dia-Stron Ltd). The MTT is used to measure the modulus of elasticity. It also measures the breaking stress, which is the total force required to break the hair fiber. The test results were subjected to statistical analysis using Tukey-Kramer post-hoc tests with IBM's SPSS statistical analysis software. A one-way analysis of variance was used to determine statistical significance between the control and the inventive composition. The results are presented in the table below and the corresponding figures. The modulus of elasticity represents elasticity. Higher values represent greater elasticity, indicating that the hair is less brittle due to strengthening and a lack of dryness and damage.
[0267] [Tables5] Results MTT Control Cl IA LB LC Modulus of elasticity (MPa) 1072 + 192 1021 + 274 1281 + 240 1810 + 493 1255 + 278 Statistical significance (p<0.05) aabcb Tensile strength 131 + 24 136 + 22 146 + 15 183 + 22 146 + 16 Statistical significance (p< 0.05) aabcb
[0268] The statistical significance of the modulus of elasticity is as follows: LB > LA = LC > Control = CL The statistical significance of the breaking stress is as follows: IB > LA = LC > Control = CL Thus, inventive routine B performed better than inventive routines LA and LC; and inventive routines LA and LC performed better than the control.
[0269] The hair was analyzed by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC, DSC-2500, TA Instruments). DSC is used to measure the denaturation temperature, which is a measure of the thermal stability of proteins in hair and a representation of crosslinking density. Higher values represent greater thermal integrity, indicating more extensive crosslinking with hair bonds (stronger hair).
[0270] [Tableauxô] Results DSC Control Cl IA LB LC Crosslinking Density (°C) 143.8 ± 0.1 146.9 ± 0.2 159.3 ± 0.1 157.7 ± 0.2 157.8 ± 0.1 Statistical Significance (p<0.05) abdcc
[0271] The statistical significance of the crosslinking density is as follows: LA > LB = IC > Cl > Control. Thus, the inventive LA routine performed better than the inventive LB and LC routines; and the inventive LB and LC routines performed better than the comparative routine 1, which performed better than the control. Frizz tests
[0272] The strands treated according to the protocols outlined above were placed in a humidity chamber at 25°C and 80% relative humidity. After 4 hours, the samples were removed from the humidity chamber and visually analyzed. Photographs of the hair strands are shown in [Fig. 2]. The results show that the hair pretreated with the strengthening compositions of Example 1 suffered less from frizz and retained better shape and curls.
[0273] The preceding description illustrates and describes the disclosure. Furthermore, the disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments. However, as mentioned above, it should be understood that it is suitable for use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments, and that it is suitable for changes or modifications in the scope of the inventive concepts as expressed herein, in accordance with the teachings above and / or the skills or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described herein are further intended to explain the best known embodiments of the applicant and to enable other persons skilled in the art to use the disclosure in such or other embodiments, and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof.Consequently, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. The appended claims are also intended to be interpreted to include other embodiments.
[0274] As used herein, the terms "comprising", "having" and "including" are used in their broad and non-limiting sense.
[0275] The terms "a", "an", "the" and "the" are understood to include the plural and the singular.
[0276] Thus, the phrase "a mixture of these" also refers to "mixtures of these." Throughout the disclosure, the phrase "their mixture" is used, following a list of items as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the items: "one or more items selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and their mixture." The phrase "their mixture" does not require that the mixture include all of the items A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of the items A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the wording "one or more items selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F."
[0277] Similarly, the expression "their salt" also relates to "their salts". Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an item selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, their salt, and their mixture", it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included.
[0278] The salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. The appropriate counterions for the components described herein are known in art.
[0279] The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0280] The term "plurality" means "more than one" or "two or more".
[0281] Except in operational examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions may in all cases be modified by the term "approximately", meaning to within + / - 5% the number indicated.
[0282] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise stated.
[0283] Some of the various identified component categories may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, some compounds may be considered both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fatty compound. If a particular composition includes both a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier and a fatty compound, a compound unique will serve only as a surfactant or non-ionic emulsifier or only as a fatty compound (the unique compound does not serve as both a surfactant or non-ionic emulsifier and a fatty component).
[0284] As used herein, all provided ranges are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of subranges between the given ranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value for inferring a subrange, etc.
[0285] The compositions of this case may optionally include one or more surfactants and / or emulsifiers other than the non-ionic surfactants and emulsifiers described above, for example, one or more non-ionic, anionic, cationic and / or amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants.
[0286] The terms "surfactants" and "emulsifiers" include the salts of surfactants and emulsifiers even if not explicitly stated. In other words, whenever the disclosure refers to a surfactant or emulsifier, it is intended that the salts are also encompassed to the extent that such salts exist, even if the disclosure description may not specifically refer to a salt (or may not refer to a salt in all instances throughout the disclosure), for example, by using language such as "their salt" or "their salts." Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants and emulsifiers. However, additional cations such as ammonium ions, or alkali-olammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, may also form salts of surfactants.
[0287] The expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used here means that less than about 2% by weight of a specific material is added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the compositions. However, the compositions may include less than about 1% by weight, less than about 0.5% by weight, less than about 0.1% by weight, or none of the specified material.
[0288] All components positively presented in this disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims; for example, a claimed composition may be "free," "substantially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components that are positively presented in this disclosure. Furthermore, components, compounds, or ingredients described for use in the fortifying composition may be excluded from the revitalizing compositions, and vice versa.
Claims
Claims
1. A method of protecting hair and mitigating damage to hair due to oxidative bleaching or coloring of hair, the method comprising: (i) applying a strengthening composition to the hair to be oxidatively bleached or colored and leaving the strengthening composition on the hair for a first period of time, the strengthening composition comprising: (a) citric acid; (b) cyclodextrin; wherein a combined total amount of (i)(a) and (i)(b) is about 2 to about 15% by weight; (c) one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; and (d) water; wherein all weight percentages of (i) are based on a total weight of the strengthening composition;(ii) upon expiration of the first duration, without rinsing the strengthening composition from the hair, applying an oxidative bleaching or coloring composition to the hair and oxidatively bleaching or coloring the hair; (iii) after oxidatively bleaching or coloring the hair, cleansing the hair with a shampoo to remove the oxidative bleaching or coloring composition from the hair; (iv) after rinsing the shampoo from the hair, applying a conditioning composition to the hair and leaving the conditioning composition on the hair for a second duration, the conditioning composition comprising; (a) one or more cationic surfactants; (b) one or more non-silicone fatty compounds; (c) one or more silicones; and (d) water; and (v) upon expiration of the second duration, rinsing the conditioning composition from the hair upon expiration of the second duration.;
2. The method of claim 1, wherein the fortifying composition has a pH of about 2 to about 6, and wherein the one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms are glycerin.
3. A method according to claim 1, wherein the fortifying composition
4. further includes: (e) one or more cationic polysaccharides; (f) one or more polar oils; and / or (g) one or more non-ionic emulsifiers. The method of claim 1, wherein the method comprises: (i) applying a strengthening composition to the hair to be bleached or oxidatively colored and leaving the strengthening composition on the hair for a first period of about 1 to about 30 minutes, the strengthening composition comprising: (a) about 1 to about 10% by weight of citric acid; (b) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight of cyclodextrin; wherein a combined total amount of (a) and (b) is about 2 to about 15% by weight; (c) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; (d) about 60 to about 96% by weight of water; (e) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more cationic polysaccharides; (f) optionally, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more polar oils; (g) optionally, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers; and (h) optionally, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients; wherein all weight percentages of (i) are based on a total weight of the fortifying composition; (ii) upon expiry of the first period, without rinsing the hair strengthening composition, the application of an oxidative bleaching or coloring composition to the hair and the oxidative bleaching or coloring of the hair; (iii) after bleaching or oxidative coloring of the hair, cleaning the hair with a shampoo to remove the bleaching or oxidative coloring composition from the hair; (iv) within about 30 minutes of rinsing the shampoo from the hair, applying a conditioning composition to the hair for a second period of about 1 to 30 minutes, the conditioning composition comprising; (a) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight of one or more surfactants
5. cationic, relative to a total weight of the revitalizing composition; (b) about 1 to about 30% by weight of one or more fatty compounds, based on a total weight of the conditioning composition; (c) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones; (d) 60 to about 90% by weight of water, based on a total weight of the revitalizing composition; (e) optionally, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more thickening agents; (f) optionally, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents; and (g) optionally from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients; wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the revitalizing composition; and (v) upon expiration of the second duration, rinsing the conditioning composition from the hair. A method of protecting hair and mitigating hair damage due to oxidative bleaching or coloring of hair, the method comprising: (i) applying an oxidative bleaching or coloring composition to the hair and oxidatively bleaching or coloring the hair followed by cleansing the hair with a shampoo to remove the oxidative bleaching or coloring composition from the hair; (ii) after rinsing the shampoo from the hair, applying a first application of a strengthening composition to the hair, and leaving the first application of the strengthening composition on the hair for a first duration, the strengthening composition comprising: (a) citric acid; (b) cyclodextrin; wherein a combined total amount of (i)(a) and (i)(b) is about 2 to about 15% by weight; (c) one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; and (d) water; in which all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the strengthening composition; (iii) upon expiration of the first duration, cleansing the hair with shampoo; (iv) after rinsing the shampoo from the hair, applying a second application of the strengthening composition to the hair and leaving the second application of the strengthening composition on the hair for a second duration; (v) upon expiration of the second duration, without rinsing the second application of the strengthening composition from the hair, applying a conditioning composition to the hair and leaving the conditioning composition on the hair for a third duration, the conditioning composition comprising: (a) one or more cationic surfactants; (b) one or more non-silicone fatty compounds; (c) one or more silicones; and (d) water; and (vi) upon expiration of the third duration, rinsing the strengthening composition and the conditioning composition from the hair.
6. The method of claim 5, wherein the fortifying composition has a pH of about 2 to about 6.
7. A composition according to claim 5, wherein the one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms are selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerin, or combinations thereof.
8. A composition according to claim 5, wherein at least one of the one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms is glycerin.
9. The method of claim 5, wherein the fortifying composition further comprises: (e) optionally one or more cationic polysaccharides; (f) one or more polar oils; and / or (g) one or more non-ionic emulsifiers.
10. A method according to claim 5, the method further comprising: (i) applying an oxidative bleaching or coloring composition to the hair and oxidatively bleaching or coloring the hair followed by cleansing the hair with a shampoo to remove the oxidative bleaching or coloring composition from the hair. hair ; (ii) within about 30 minutes of rinsing the shampoo from the hair, applying a first application of a strengthening composition to the hair and leaving the first application of the strengthening composition on the hair for a first period of about 1 to about 30 minutes, the strengthening composition comprising: (a) about 1 to about 10% by weight of citric acid; (b) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight of cyclodextrin; wherein a combined total amount of (a) and (b) is about 2 to about 15% by weight; (c) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; (d) about 60 to about 96% by weight of water; (e) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more cationic polysaccharides; (f) optionally, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more polar oils; (g) optionally, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more nonionic emulsifiers; (h) optionally, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients; wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the fortifying composition; (iii) upon expiry of the first period, without rinsing the strengthening composition from the hair, applying a shampoo composition to the hair and cleaning the hair; (iv) within about 30 minutes of rinsing the shampoo composition from the hair, applying a second application of the strengthening composition to the hair and leaving the second application of the strengthening composition on the hair for a second period of about 1 to about 30 minutes; (v) upon expiration of the second duration, without rinsing the second application of the hair strengthening composition, applying a conditioning composition to the hair and leaving the conditioning composition on the hair for a third duration of about 1 to about 30 minutes, the conditioning composition comprising: (a) about 0.5 to about 10% by weight of one or more cationic surfactants, based on a total weight of the conditioning composition; (b) about 1 to about 30% by weight of one or more fatty compounds, based on a total weight of the conditioning composition; (c) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones; (d) 60 to about 90% by weight of water, based on a total weight of the revitalizing composition; (e) optionally, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more thickening agents; (f) optionally, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents; and (g) optionally from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients; wherein all weight percentages of (iii) are based on a total weight of the revitalizing composition; and (vi) upon expiry of the third period, rinsing out the fortifying composition and the hair conditioning composition.