Processes for reducing frizz and improving the smooth texture of hair

Abstract

PROCESSES FOR REDUCING FRIZZ AND ENHANCING THE SMOOTH TEXTURE OF HAIR This disclosure relates to processes for reducing frizz and increasing the smooth texture of hair. The processes involve the application of a hair treatment composition requiring frizz reduction or increased smoothness, the hair treatment composition comprising: (a) propylene carbonate; and (b) water, in which the composition is free of alkylene carbonates, cyclic carbonates other than propylene carbonate, and N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamide. After rinsing the hair treatment composition, the hair is subjected to heat treatment at a temperature of at least 150°C. The processes result in hair with improved hair fiber alignment, reduced frizz, and a smooth texture. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Methods for reducing frizz and improving the smooth texture of hair SCOPE OF DISCLOSURE

[0001] This disclosure relates to methods for reducing frizz and increasing the smoothness of hair requiring either frizz reduction or increased smoothness. The hair is treated with a rinse-out hair treatment composition, followed by a heat treatment. Treatment with these compositions provides the hair with improved fiber alignment, frizz control, and a smoother texture. CONTEXT

[0002] Many consumers wish to use cosmetic and care compositions that enhance the appearance of hair, for example, by changing the color, style, and / or shape of the hair and / or by imparting various cosmetic properties to the hair, such as shine and revitalization. Hair can become dry or damaged for various reasons, for example, exposure to the elements, poor nutrition, mechanical treatments (e.g., brushing), styling treatments using chemicals, dyeing, heat, nutrition, etc. Even cleansing shampoos can strip the hair of its natural oils, causing dryness, which can lead to a dull appearance and split ends.

[0003] Chemical hair treatments include bleaching and coloring treatments to change hair color. Chemical treatments also include processes to permanently change the shape and structure of hair, for example, by perming, perming, relaxing, or straightening. These chemical treatments often alter the appearance of hair by changing its physical structure, which inevitably causes some degree of hair damage. Environmental factors, such as salt water, sunlight, and heat, are also known to damage hair. Damaged hair is characterized by unnatural changes in the protein structure of individual hair strands or shafts.

[0004] The popularity and use of oils for hair treatments have increased due to their effectiveness and simplicity. Commonly used oils include olive oil, mineral oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, rice bran oil, and coconut oil. However, these treatments can make hair greasy. Furthermore, the effects are not usually observed until several hours (e.g., 8 hours) after treatment, and several treatments are ha- commonly needed, which makes the process time-consuming and laborious.

[0005] Hair damage results in split ends, dryness, squeaky-clean hair, and hair that becomes frizzy and difficult to style. Because the visible part of the hair is dead, it cannot regenerate itself. Many over-the-counter and salon treatments claim to repair damaged hair. These include conditioners, hot oil treatments, hydrolyzed proteins, vitamin formulations, and extracts of exotic fruits, leaves, or roots. However, these treatments provide little improvement to the hair. Therefore, hair treatment technologies that can smooth, straighten, or style hair without chemically damaging it are desired.

[0006] The need remains to improve hair manageability, for example, to improve hair alignment, to reduce unwanted volume (in particular a reduction of frizz), and to increase shine. DISCLOSURE SUMMARY

[0007] This disclosure relates to methods for improving the appearance, feel, and manageability of hair. In particular, the methods improve fiber alignment, reduce frizz, and give hair a smooth texture. Treated hair is soft, shiny, revitalized, and has a healthy appearance. The methods use a hair treatment composition containing propylene carbonate, which undergoes a reaction when subjected to heat treatment. For example, the heat from a hot iron activates cross-linking or other modifying reactions with the amine groups of the hair fibers. Without wishing to develop any particular theory, the inventors believe that disubstituted N,N'-urea bonds are formed with the keratin fibers of the hair. This results in the fixation of the new shape. The methods are gentle and do not damage the hair.Furthermore, the enhanced cosmetic properties imparted to the hair are long-lasting and maintained even after multiple washing cycles.

[0008] The processes of this disclosure are generally used to reduce frizz or increase the smooth texture of hair by:

[0009] (i) the application of a hair treatment composition to hair born requiring frizz reduction or increased smoothness of texture; the composition includes: a. approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight of propylene carbonate; and b. water,

[0010] wherein the composition is free from alkylene carbonates, cyclic carbonates other than propylene carbonate, and N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamide, and

[0011] wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition;

[0012] (ii) after rinsing the composition from the hair, subjecting the hair to a heat treatment, in which the heat treatment heats the hair to a temperature of at least 150°C.

[0013] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition has an acidic pH, for example, a pH less than 7, or a pH of about 3 to about 6.

[0014] The hair treatment composition can be applied to dry or wet / damp hair. Hair treatment compositions contain water. Therefore, applying the hair treatment composition to the hair will impart a degree of wetness to the hair. Consequently, in various embodiments, after applying the hair treatment composition, the hair is dried after rinsing it out, for example, using a hairdryer. Most hairdryers reach a maximum temperature of approximately 90°C to approximately 120°C. Therefore, once the hair is dried, it can be treated with a hot iron (preferably a flat iron) or other heat treatment at a temperature of approximately 150°C to approximately 280°C. A hot iron can be passed over the hair once or several times.

[0015] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes one or more silicones. Silicones can protect hair from damage caused by hot styling tools such as hair dryers and flat irons. The slick, glossy texture of silicones also contributes to giving hair softness and smoothness. In various embodiments, at least one or more of the silicones is an amino-functionalized silicone. Non-limiting examples of amino-functionalized silicones include amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a combination thereof.

[0016] Film-forming polymers can also be incorporated into the hair treatment composition. These film-forming polymers can provide additional heat protection to the hair and simultaneously work to "preserve" the shape and style of the hair. In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes one or more film-forming polymers selected from anionic film-forming polymers, nonionic film-forming polymers, amphoteric film-forming polymers, or a combination thereof.

[0017] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes one or more polysaccharides, for example, one or more polysaccharides selected from starches, gums and cellulose-based polymers, and a mixture thereof, preferably one or more polysaccharides selected from gum of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, guar gum and its derivatives, cellulose and its derivatives, and a mixture of these.

[0018] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes one or more nonionic associative polymeric thickeners. A non-limiting but useful class of nonionic associative polymeric thickeners includes polyurethane thickeners, for example, polyurethane / polyether thickeners. Non-limiting examples of polyurethane / polyether thickeners include PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether, PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, PEG-150 / decyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer, or a mixture thereof.

[0019] Hair treated according to the processes disclosed herein exhibits improved fiber alignment, better frizz control, and a smoother texture. These desirable cosmetic attributes are long-lasting and are maintained even after several washing cycles. Brief description of the drawings

[0020] An implementation of this technology is described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figure, in which:

[0021] [Fig.1] Fig.1 shows strands of hair treated according to processes of this disclosure and compares them to strands of hair not treated according to processes of this disclosure.

[0022] The various aspects of disclosure are not limited to the results, arrangements and representations shown in the drawings. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE

[0023] This disclosure relates to methods for treating hair, particularly hair requiring reduced frizz and improved smoothness. This is achieved using a hair treatment composition that includes propylene carbonate. The inventors believe that propylene carbonate undergoes a reaction when subjected to heat treatment. The heat activates a reaction with the propylene carbon and amine groups of the hair fibers, presumably forming an N,N'-disubstituted urea bond that contributes to the durable fixation of the newly formed shape. The methods are gentle, long-lasting, and reduce hair frizz while simultaneously improving smoothness. The methods improve fiber alignment, reduce frizz, and impart a smooth texture to a surprising degree.The longevity of the improved fiber alignment, frizz reduction, and smooth texture is also significant and surprising. Hair treated according to the processes described here retains these desirable cosmetic properties, even after multiple washing cycles. Thus, the benefits... The properties provided by the compositions are surprisingly durable and resistant to washing.

[0024] The processes in accordance with this disclosure typically include: i. applying a hair treatment composition to hair requiring frizz reduction or increased smoothness of texture; the composition comprising: a. approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight of propylene carbonate; and b. water,

[0025] in which the composition is free from alkylene carbonates, cyclic carbonates other than propylene carbonate, and N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamide, and

[0026] where all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition;

[0027] (ii) after rinsing the composition from the hair, subjecting the hair to heat treatment, in which the heat treatment heats the hair to a temperature of at least 150°C.

[0028] The pH of the composition may vary. However, in various embodiments, a pH below 7 (an acidic pH) is desirable. (a) Propylene carbonate

[0029] Propylene carbonate is an organic compound with the formula C4H6O3. It is a cyclic carbonate ester derived from propylene glycol. The hair treatment composition of the present disclosure typically includes approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight of propylene carbonate. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 8 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 12% by weight, and approximately 5 to approximately 10% by weight of propylene carbonate.

[0030] The hair treatment composition is typically free from or substantially free from carbonates other than propylene carbonate. For example, the hair treatment composition is typically free from alkylene carbonates and cyclic carbonates other than propylene carbonate. In addition, the hair treatment composition is typically free from or substantially free from N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamide. (b) water

[0031] The hair treatment composition is an aqueous composition, typically containing a substantial amount of water. However, in various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes approximately 50 to approximately 95% water by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions include approximately 60 to approximately 95% water by weight, approximately 70 to about 90% by weight, about 50 to about 85% by weight, about 60 to about 85% by weight, about 70 to about 85% by weight, about 50 to about 80% by weight, about 60 to about 80% by weight, about 70 to about 80% by weight, about 65 to about 85% by weight, relative to a total weight of the compositions. (c) Silicones

[0032] Non-limiting examples of silicones include dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In various embodiments, one or more of the silicones are non-volatile silicone oils. Useful silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes, or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.Other examples of silicone oils that can be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicones, such as those with a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 x 10⁶ m² / s) and / or containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms. These silicones optionally include alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, or mixtures thereof.

[0033] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more silicone oils selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone and amodimethicone, and preferably dimethicone.

[0034] In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions include one or more amino-functionalized silicones. The expression "amino-functionalized silicone" or the term "aminosilicones" refers to a silicone containing at least one primary amino, secondary amino, tertiary amino, and / or quaternary ammonium group. The structure of the amino-functionalized silicone may be linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic. The amino functional group may be at any position in the silicone molecule, preferably at the end of the backbone (for example, in the case of amodimethicones) and / or in the side chain.

[0035] In some cases, an amino functional silicone is chosen from compounds having the following formula: (R2Q)„ If----- (R'Xm RJ 0—If o~ If R3 J» R; (R2Q). (R%

[0036] in which • each RI is independently chosen from a Cl-30 alkyl group, a Cl-30 alkoxy group, a C5-30 aryl group, a C6-30 aralkyl group, a C6-30 aralkyloxy group, a Cl-30 alkaryl group, a Cl-30 alkoxyaryl group, and a hydroxy group (preferably, each RI is independently chosen from a Cl-30 alkyl group, a Cl-30 alkoxy group and a hydroxy group); • each R2 is independently a divalent alkylene radical having one to ten carbon atoms (preferably, R2 is a divalent alkylene radical having three to six carbon atoms); • each R3 is independently chosen from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C5-30 aryl group, a C6-30 aralkyl group and a C10 alkaryl group (preferably each R3 is independently chosen from one of a C30 alkyl group); • Q is a monovalent radical chosen from -NR42 and -NR4(CH2)VNR42; • each R4 is independently chosen from a hydrogen and an alkyl group in Ci-C4; • x is equal to 2 to 6; • z is equal to 0 or 1; • n is equal to 25 to 3,000 (preferably, 25 to 2,000; more preferably, 25 to 1,000; preferably 25 to 500); and • m is equal to 0 to 3000 (preferably, 0 to 2000; more preferably, 0 to 1000; preferably, 0 to 100);

[0037] provided that at least 50% by moles of the total number of groups R1 and R3 are methyl and provided that when m is 0, z is 1.

[0038] Preferred R1 groups include methyl, methoxy, ethyl, ethoxy, propyl, propoxy, isopropyl, isopropoxy, butyl, butoxy, isobutyl, isobutoxy, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, tolyl, and hydroxy. Preferred divalent alkylene radicals R2 include trimethylene, tetramethylene, pentamethylene, -CH2CH(CH3)CH2, and -CH2CH2CH(CH3)CH2.

[0039] Preferred R3 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, and tolyl. Preferred R4 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, and isobutyl. When z is 0, the amino-functionalized silicone has only dangling amine functional substituents in the polymer chain. When z is 1, the amino-functionalized silicone may have only terminal amine functional substituents (e.g., m = 0) or may have both terminal and dangling amine functional substituents in the polymer chain (e.g., m > 0). Preferably, n + m is 50 to 1000. More preferably, n + m is 50 to 750. Even more preferably, n + m is 50 to 500. Most preferably, n + m is 50 to 250.

[0040] In some cases, amino-functionalized silicones are alkoxylated and / or hydroxylated aminosilicones. Suitable alkoxylated and / or hydroxylated aminosilicones may be selected from the compounds of the following formula: r3 ch3 R3

[0041] wherein R3 is a hydroxyl or OR5, R5 is a Ci-C4 alkyl group, R4 is a group having a structure according to the following formula: - CH2 CH CH2 NH (CH2)n nh2 r6

[0042] R6 is a Ci-C4 alkyl, n is 1 to 4, x is the same as "n" described above, and y is the same as "m" described above.

[0043] The silicone can be a polysiloxane corresponding to the following formula: HO CH I -S--G--H Œk j NH (CHJ? NH. ■ ' — y'

[0044] in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000;

[0045] b) amino silicones corresponding to the following formula:

[0046] R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a

[0047] in which: • G, which may be identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl group, OH, or an alkyl group in CrC8, for example a methyl group, or an alkoxy group in CrC8, for example a methoxy group, • a, which may be identical or different, denote the digit 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0; • b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1; • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; • R', which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of the formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

[0048] -NR"-QN(R")2

[0049] -N(R”)2

[0050] -N+(R")3 A-

[0051] -N+H(R")2A-

[0052] -N+H2(R") A-

[0053] -N(R")-Q-N+R"H2 A-

[0054] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")2H A-

[0055] -NR"-Q-N+ (R")3 A-,

[0056] wherein R", which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen, a phenyl, a benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a Ci-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched CrH2r group, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as a fluoride, chloride, bromide, or iodide.

[0057] Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones having the following formula:

[0058] in which: • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can go from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 1,000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; • Ri, R2, R3, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designates an alkoxy radical.

[0059] The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly, is equal to 0.3:1. The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

[0060] Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula: I ' HH.

[0061] in which: • p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) goes from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; knowing that p can denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and that q can denote a number from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; • Ri, R2, which may be identical or different, represent a radical hydroxy or alkoxy in C1-C4, where at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designates an alkoxy radical.

[0062] The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly, is equal to 1:0.95.

[0063] Another group of amino silicones is represented by the following formula:

[0064] in which: • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10; • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0065] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

[0066] Another group of amino silicones is represented by the following formula:

[0067] in which: • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 1 to 10; • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 4 to 8 atoms of carbon and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0068] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.

[0069] Another group of amino silicones is represented by the following formula:

[0070]

[0071]

[0072] in which: • R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8 or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example a methyl; • R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkylenoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8, linked to Si via a SiC bond; • Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or a salt of organic acid (e.g. acetate); • r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; • s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50. Such amino silicones are described more specifically in US patent 4,185,087. A group of quaternary ammonium silicones is represented by the following formula:

[0073] in which: • R7, which may be identical or different, represent a radical hy monovalent drocarbon containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a nucleus containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example a methyl; • R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent alkylenoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8, linked to Si via a SiC bond; • R8, which may be identical or different, represent an atom hydrogen, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or an -R6-NHCOR7x radical; • X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride, or a salt of organic acid (e.g., an acetate); • r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 200 and in particular of 5 to 100. These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0530974.

[0074] A group of quaternary ammonium silicones is represented by the following formula:

[0075] in which: • Rb R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, designate a Ci-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group; • R5 designates an alkyl radical in CrC4 or a hydroxyl group; • n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; • m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

[0076] and in which x is chosen such that the amine index is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g; • multiblock polyoxyalkylated aminosilicones, of the type (AB)n, where A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylated block containing at least one amine group.

[0077] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating motifs having the following developed formulas:

[0078] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-]

[0079] or alternatively

[0080] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R")-R' -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]

[0081] in which: • a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, more particularly from 10 to 100; • b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more specifically from 10 to 5,000; • R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; • R, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched C2-Ci2 divalent hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as an oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denotes a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; • R', which may be identical or different, represent a radical hy divalent C2-Ci2 linear or branched drocarbon optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as an oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably, R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0082] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85% by moles.

[0083] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2. The average weight molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone oil is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

[0084] Non-limiting examples of amino-functionalized silicones include bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and combinations thereof. In some cases, a particularly useful amino-functionalized silicone is bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, where X is the isobutyl group and one of the Rs is OH and the other is OCH3 in the above structure, also known as "Bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone" and "3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, di-Me, with [(hydroxydimethylsilyl)oxy]- and [(methoxydimethylsilyl)oxy] terminations." Bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone is commercially available under the brand name DOWSIL AP-8087 FLUID from Dow Chemical. Amodimethicone is a particularly preferred amino-functional silicone. A non-limiting example of amodimethicone products containing amino silicones having the structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 652, BELSIL ADM 4000 E, or BELSIL ADM LOG 1. A product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300. In addition or alternatively, the average molecular weight by weight (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2,000 to 200,000, more particularly from 5,000 to 100,000 and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000.

[0085] In a preferred embodiment, one or more amino-functionalized silicones are selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof. In other preferred embodiments, the amino-functionalized silicone is amodimethicone.

[0086] The total quantity of one or more silicones in the compositions will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more silicones, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions include from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 6% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, from about 2 to about 10% by weight, from about 2 to about 8% by weight, from about 2 to about 6% by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight, from about 3 to about 10% by weight, from about 3 to about 8% by weight, or about 3 to about 6% by weight or about 3 to about 5% by weight of one or more silicones, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0087] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment compositions include one or more amino-functionalized silicones. In other embodiments, the hair treatment compositions include one or more amino-functionalized silicones and are free or essentially free of other silicones; that is, the composition is free or essentially free of silicones other than the one or more amino-functionalized silicones. In additional embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes amodimethicone and is free or essentially free of silicones other than amodimethicone.

[0088] The total quantity of one or more amino-functionalized silicones in the hair treatment compositions will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the compositions include from approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more amino-functionalized silicones, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions include from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 6% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, from about 2 to about 10% by weight, from about 2 to about 8% by weight, from about 2 to about 6% by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight, from about 3 to about 10% by weight, from about 3 to about 8% by weight, or about 3 to about 6% by weight or about 3 to about 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (d) Film-forming polymers

[0089] The hair treatment compositions of this disclosure optionally include one or more film-forming polymers, for example, one or more film-forming polymers selected from cationic film-forming polymers, anionic film-forming polymers, non-ionic film-forming polymers, amphoteric film-forming polymers, or a combination thereof.

[0090] Various types of film-forming polymers overlap with the scope of one or more polysaccharides (component (e)) and one or more non-ionic associative polymer thickeners (component (f)). Indeed, various film-forming polymers, polysaccharides, and non-ionic associative polymer thickeners can contribute to the formation of films on the hair and provide a thickening effect to hair treatment compositions.

[0091] In such cases where overlap may exist and where the hair treatment composition includes two or more overlapping components, a single compound does not represent more than one component. For example, if a hair treatment composition includes a film-forming polymer, a polysaccharide, and a nonionic associative thickener, a single compound cannot act as each of the three components. Similarly, a single compound cannot simultaneously act as two components.

[0092] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes one or more film-forming polymers. The term "hydrophilic film-forming polymer" is interchangeable with the term "aqueous film-forming polymer" and refers to polymers or copolymers that may be water-soluble or water-dispersible; anionic, cationic, or nonionic; and crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They generally include polar groups such as hydroxyl, amide, amine, or ether groups, and other groups with a strong affinity for water. In addition, they must offer good adhesive, bonding, film-forming, and water-swelling properties. Hydrophilic polymers are film-forming polymers capable of forming, either on their own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous film capable of adhering to a substrate, particularly the skin.

[0093] Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic film-forming polymers include polyurethanes, vinyl polymers, natural polymers, latex polymers, vinylpyrrolidone (VP) based polymers, amphoteric polymers and their mixtures.

[0094] (i) Polyurethanes

[0095] Polyurethanes can be aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic copolymers, polyurea-urethanes or polyurea copolymers, comprising, alone or in mixture: at least one block of aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic polyester origin, and / or at least one block of branched or unbranched silicone, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and / or at least one block comprising fluoro groups.

[0096] The film-forming polyurethanes that can be used in the invention can also be obtained from branched or unbranched polyesters or alkyls comprising labile hydrogens, which are modified by reaction with a dii-socyanate and a difunctional organic compound (for example dihydroxy, diamino or hydroxyamino), also comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or alternatively a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0097] For the purpose of forming polyurethane, monomers bearing an anionic group that can be used during polycondensation that may be mentioned include dimethylolpropionic acid, trimellitic acid or a derivative such as trimellitic anhydride, the sodium salt of 3-sulfopentanediol acid, and the sodium salt of 5-sulfo-1,3-benzenedicarboxylic acid. Preferably, the monomer bearing an anionic group is dimethylolpropionic acid.

[0098] As examples of film-forming polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention, aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425® and Avalure UR-450® by Goodrich may be cited. A particularly preferred polyurethane is polyurethane-99.

[0099] Advantageously, the film-forming polyurethanes are selected from copolymers obtained by copolymerization of hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, adipic acid, hexamethylene diisocyanate, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminoethanesulfonic acid, and ethylenediamine. Preferably, the polyurethanes can also be selected from copolymers obtained by copolymerization of adipic acid, dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, ethylenediamine, hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, and sodium N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminoethanesulfonate.

[0100] In particular, the polyurethanes are chosen from those sold under the name Baycusan eco E 1001, Baycusan C1001 or C1004, known as polyurethane-99, polyurethane-35, and more particularly the product sold under the name Baycusan C1001, known as polyurethane-99.

[0101] (ii) Vinyl polymers

[0102] Vinyl polymers can be selected from vinyl polyalcohols, copolymers derived from C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides, and methyl vinyl ether / butyl monomaleate copolymers. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "vinyl polyalcohol" refers to a polymer comprising -CH2CH(OH)- units. Vinyl polyalcohols are generally produced by hydrolysis of vinyl polyacetate. Usually, the reaction occurs in the presence of methanol (alcoholy). The reaction is normally catalyzed by acid or base catalysis. The degree of hydrolysis of commercial products varies, often around 87%, but products with a degree of hydrolysis of 100% also exist. There are also copolymers with monomers other than vinyl acetate, such as ethylene / vinyl alcohol copolymers.

[0103] Polyvinyl alcohol polymers are preferably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers with vinyl acetate, the latter corresponding in particular to a partial hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate.

[0104] For example, the products from the Celvol range supplied by the company Cenese under the names Celvol 540, Celvol 350, Celvol 325, Celvol 165, Celvol 125, Celvol 540 S, Celvol 840 and Celvol 443 may be used.

[0105] The copolymer(s) derived from C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides may be selected from copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) one or more monomers selected from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, and acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidated, for example, INCI name: Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer. Preferably, the copolymer(s) derived from C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides is / are selected from monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers, for example, the PVM / MA copolymer ethyl ester, sold under the name Gantrez ES 225 by ISP.

[0106] (iii) Natural polymers

[0107] Hydrophilic polymers can also be selected from natural polymers, in particular polysaccharides that have monosaccharides or disac-charides as basic units. Natural polymers are preferably selected from pullulan, guar gums and modified guar gums, celluloses and gellan gum, and their derivatives.

[0108] In a preferred embodiment, a natural hydrophilic film-forming polymer is pullulan. Pullulan is a polysaccharide polymer consisting of poorly formed units. Maltotriose, also known as α-1,4-α-α,6-glucan, contains three glucose units linked by α-1,4-glycosidic bonds, while consecutive maltotriose units are linked by α-1,6-glycosidic bonds. In various embodiments, skin-perfecting compositions include pullulan and optionally one or more additional hydrophilic film-forming polymers, such as one or more polyurethanes. The amount of pullulan varies. However, in various embodiments, skin-perfecting compositions typically include approximately 1% to 15% by weight of pullulan, relative to the total weight of the skin-perfecting composition.In other embodiments, the skin-perfecting composition includes approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 3 to approximately 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the skin-perfecting composition.

[0109] Guar gums are galactomannans consisting of mannose and galactose. For the purposes of this disclosure, the term "modified guar gum" means guar gums alkylated with at least one CrC8 alkyl group, guar gums hydroxyalkylated with at least one Ci8 hydroxyalkyl group, and guar gums alkylated with at least one Ci8 acyl group. Hydroxypropyl guar gums (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), such as the product sold under the name Jaguar HP 105 by Rhodia, are a useful example.

[0110] Cellulose is a [31-4-polyacetal of cellobiose, cellobiose being a disaccharide consisting of two glucose molecules. Cellulose derivatives can be cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic. Among these derivatives, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished. Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, and hydroxypropylcelluloses; and mixed hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses, and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0111] Among cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, cross-linked or non-cross-linked. The quaternizing agent may, in particular, be glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine such as laurylamine or stearylamine. Another cationic cellulose ether that may be mentioned is hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose. Among Cellulose esters include mineral cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc.) and mixed organic / mineral cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates.

[0112] Examples of cellulose ester ethers include hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates. The cellulose-based compounds of the invention can be selected from unsubstituted and substituted celluloses.

[0113] Cellulose and derivatives are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by FMC Biopolymers, under the names MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and Ethocel™ (ethylcellulose) by Dow, Benecel® (methylcellulose), Blanose™ (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminai® (methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetylhydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by Hercules Aqualon.

[0114] Gellan gum is a polysaccharide produced by aerobic fermentation of Sphingomonas elodea, more commonly known as Pseudomonas elodea. This linear polysaccharide is formed from the following monosaccharide sequence: D-glucose, D-glucuronic acid, and L-rhamnose. In its native form, gellan gum is highly acylated. The gellan gum preferably used in the film according to the present invention is a gellan gum that is at least partially deacylated. This at least partially deacylated gellan gum is obtained by alkaline treatment at high temperature. For example, a solution of KOH or NaOH may be used. Purified gellan gum sold under the trade name Kelcogel® by Kelco is suitable for preparing the compositions according to the invention.

[0115] Gellan gum derivatives are all products obtained by carrying out standard chemical reactions, in particular esterifications, the addition of a salt of an organic or mineral acid. Welan gum, for example, is used as a gellan gum derivative. Welan gum is a gellan gum modified by fermentation using the Alcaligenes strain ATCC 31 555. Welan gum has a recurring pentasaccharide structure formed from a main chain composed of D-glucose, D-glucuronic acid, and L-rhamnose motifs, onto which a pendant L-rhamnose or L-mannose motif is grafted. Welan gum (diutan gum) sold under the trade name Kelco Crete® by the Kelco company is suitable for preparing the compositions according to the invention.

[0116] Other saccharide polymers that can be used according to the invention include starches and their derivatives.

[0117] Natural hydrophilic film-forming polymers include celluloses and their derivatives, in particular those sold under the name Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers.

[0118] Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinaceae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae, and Polyideaceae. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide motifs, are composed of two D-galactopyranose motifs linked alternately by α(1,3) and [3(1,4)] bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20% to 50%), and the αD-galactopyranosyl residues may be in the 3,6-anhydro form.Depending on the number and position of the sulfate ester groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenan are distinguished: kappa-carrageenan, which has one sulfate ester group; iota-carrageenan, which has two sulfate ester groups; and lambda-carrageenan, which has three sulfate ester groups. Carrageenan is composed primarily of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine, and / or calcium salts of polysaccharide sulfate esters.

[0119] Carrageenans are sold in particular by the company SEPPIC under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the names Carragel®, Carralact® and Carrasol®, by the company Cargill under the names Satiagel™ and Satiagum™, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names Genulacta®, Genugel® and Genuvisco®.

[0120] Hyaluronic acid and its salts, for example sodium hyaluronate and potassium hyaluronate, are mentioned. Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. It is a glycosaminoglycan polymer with a long chain of disaccharide motifs of Na-glucuronate-N-acetylglucosamine.

[0121] A useful hydrophilic film-forming polymer is xanthan gum and modified xanthan gums, such as dehydroxanthan gum, hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, dehydroxanthan gum is useful.

[0122] (iv) Latex or pseudolatex polymers

[0123] As described above for hydrophilic film-forming polyurethanes, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer can therefore also be present in a composition of the invention in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, generally known as latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0124] Aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymers that can be used include acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by the company Withia-Neoresins, Dow Latex 432® by the company Dow Chemical, Daitosol 5000 AD® or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by the company Daito Kasey Kogyo; Syntran 5760® or Syntran PC 5100® by Interpolymer, Allianz OPT by Rohm & Haas, aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene / acrylic polymers sold under the Joncryl® brand by Johnson Polymer, or aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names Neorez R-981® and Neorez R-974® by Avecia-Neoresins, Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875®, Sancure 861®, Sancure 878® and Sancure 2060® by Goodrich, Impranil 85® by Bayer and Aquamere H-1511® by Hydromer; sulfopolyesters sold under the Eastman AQ® brand by Eastman Chemical Products, and vinyl dispersions, for example Mexomer PAM® from Chimex, and their mixtures.

[0125] (v) Vinylpyrrolidone (VP) based polymers

[0126] Non-limiting examples of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) based film-forming polymers include polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP-styrene copolymer, VP-vinyl acetate copolymer and VP diethyl sulfate-dimethylaminoethyl-methacrylic acid copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] (vi) Amphoteric polymers

[0128] Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic film-forming polymers include amphoteric polymers. Non-limiting examples include polymetha-cryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride (AVE / MA) copolymer, 2-aminopropyl polyacrylate, poly(diethylaminoethyl methacrylate), copolymers such as dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer and zwitterionic polymers such as polybetaines such as poly-2-ethynyl-N-(4-sulfobutyl)pyridinium betaine (PESPB), polysulfobetaines such as poly-N,N-dimethyl-N-3-sulfopropyl-3'methacrylamidopropanaminium copolymers and copolymers such as diallyldimethylammonium chloride-maleamic acid copolymers, or a combination thereof.

[0129] The amount of one or more film-forming polymers in the hair treatment compositions, if present, will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more film-forming polymers, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. In additional embodiments, the hair treatment composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, and approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight. weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 6% by weight, or approximately 2 to approximately 5% by weight, based on a total amount of the hair treatment composition. (e) Polysaccharides

[0130] The term "polysaccharides" refers to compounds containing a backbone of repeating sugar units (i.e., carbohydrates). Polysaccharides can be cationic, nonionic, or anionic. In various embodiments, the polysaccharides are preferably nonionic polysaccharides.

[0131] Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include starches, gums, celluloses and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of starches include modified starches, starch-based polymers, methylhydroxypropyl starch, potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, starch crosslinked with octenyl succinic anhydride (sold under the name Dry-Flo by National Starch), starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroodextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch.

[0132] Non-limiting examples of cellulose-based polymers include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Alkyl-substituted celluloses are also useful here. Among the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers, the preferred material is cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is cetyl alcohol ether of hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the trade name NATROSOL CS Plus by Aqualon Corporation.

[0133] In various embodiments, the polysaccharides are preferably chosen from scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3) glucose units linked with a glucose unit linked (1-6) every three units, an example of which is commercially available CLEAROGEL. CS1 1 from Michel Mercier Products Inc.

[0134] Non-limiting examples of gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, camitin, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropylchitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxyanthan gum, and biosaccharide gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] In various embodiments, one or more polysaccharides are selected from hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, potato starch (modified or unmodified), wheat starch, rice starch, hydroxyethylcellulose, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof. In still other embodiments, the polysaccharide is hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is sold under the trade name STRUCTURE ZEA by Akzo Nobel. In a preferred embodiment, at least one or more of the polysaccharides is sclerotium gum.

[0136] The total quantity of one or more polysaccharides in the compositions will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight of one or more polysaccharides, relative to the total weight of the composition.In other embodiments, the compositions include between approximately 0.1 and approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.1 and approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 and approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.1 and approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 and approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.2 and approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.2 and approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.2 and approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.2 and approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.2 and approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.2 and approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.3 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.3 and approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.3 and approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.3 and approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 0.3 and approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.3 and approximately 3% by weight, or approximately 0.3 and approximately 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] (f) Non-ionic associative polymeric thickeners

[0138] An associative thickener is capable of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules or particles. This physical association provides thickening and can give rise to thixotropic or shear-thinning macromolecular systems, that is, systems whose viscosity depends on the shear forces to which they are subjected.

[0139] In various embodiments, the nonionic associative polymer thickener is a nonionic associative polyurethane thickener, preferably a nonionic associative polyurethane / polyether. The nonionic polyethers / polyurethanes may have at least one hydrophilic fraction and at least one hydrophobic fraction. More particularly, said polymers may contain in their chain both hydrophilic sequences, most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic sequences, which may be aliphatic bonds alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic bonds. In various embodiments, these polyether-polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20, separated by a hyaluronic acid sequence. Drophile, given that the hydrocarbon chains can be dangling chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic sequence. In particular, one or more dangling chains may be considered. Furthermore, the polymer may include a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

[0140] Polyether-polyurethanes can be polyblock, particularly triblock. The hydrophobic sequences can be at each end of the chain (e.g., a triblock copolymer bearing a hydrophilic central sequence) or distributed both at the ends and throughout the chain (e.g., a polyblock copolymer). These same polymers can also be in the form of graft motifs or be star-shaped.

[0141] Nonionic polyethers / polyurethanes containing a fatty chain may be tri-sequenced copolymers in which the hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyether-polyurethanes include a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name. By extension, those in which the hydrophilic sequences are linked by other chemical bonds to the hydrophobic sequences are also included among nonionic polyether-polyurethanes containing a hydrophobic chain.

[0142] Non-limiting examples of nonionic polyethers / polyurethanes containing a hydrophobic chain include Rheolate® 205 containing a urea functional group sold by RHEOX, or alternatively Rheolates® 208, 204, or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®. Other products include ELFACOS T210® containing a C12-C14 alkyl chain and AKZO's ELFACOS T212® containing a C18 alkyl chain. ROHM & HAAS's DW 1206B®, containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

[0143] Solutions or dispersions of these polymers can also be used, particularly in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278, and Rheolate® 244, sold by RHEOX. DW 1206F and DW 1206J, supplied by ROHM & HAAS, can also be used.

[0144] As examples of the polyethers / polyurethanes described above, polyurethanes / polyethers may be cited, comprising in their chain at least one polyoxyethylenated hydrophilic block and at least one hydrophobic block containing at least one sequence selected from aliphatic sequences, cycloaliphatic sequences, and aromatic sequences. In various embodiments, it is preferable that the polyurethanes / polyethers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, and wherein the hydrocarbon-based chains hydrocarbons are selected from the dangling chains and the chains at the end of the hydrophilic block.

[0145] In a preferred embodiment, a polyurethane / polyether is used which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and (iii) a dii-socyanate. These polyurethanes / polyethers are notably sold by the company Elément under the name Rheolate FX 1100® and Rheoluxe 811®, which is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 100 mol of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weight average molecular weight of 40,000 (INCI name: PEG-136 / Steareth-100 / HDI Copolymer).

[0146] According to another embodiment, a polyurethane / polyether is used which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate. These polyurethanes / polyethers are sold in particular by Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44®.

[0147] Aculyn 46® bearing the INCI name: PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%) (INCI name: PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer). Aculyn 44® (PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer) is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) (INCI name: PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer).

[0148] As associative polyurethanes, it may be preferable to use a compound represented by the following formula (1):

[0149] R1 -{(O-R2)k -OCONH-R3 [-NHCOO-(R4 -O)n -R5 ]h}m (1)

[0150] wherein R1 represents a hydrocarbon group, R2 and R4 represent inde during alkylene groups having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, which alkylene groups may be identical or different from each other, or a phenylethylene group, R3 represents a hydrocarbon group, which may optionally have a urethane bond, R5 represents a branched chain or secondary hydrocarbon group, "m" represents a number of at least 2, "h" represents a number of at least 1, "k" represents a number in the range of 1 to 500, and "n" represents a number in the range of 1 to 200.

[0151] The hydrophobically modified polyurethane represented by the general formula (1) shown above is obtained, for example, by the reaction of at least one polyether polyol represented by the formula R1-[(O-R2)k-OH]m, at least one polyisocyanate represented by the formula R3-(NCO)h+b and at least one polymonoalcohol represented by the formula HO-(R4-O)n-R5. In such cases, R1 to R5 in the general formula (1) are determined by the compounds R1-[(O-R2)k-OH]m, R3-(NCO)h+b and HO-(R4-O)n-R5. The charge ratios among the three compounds are not restricted in particular and should preferably be such that the ratio between the isocyanate group derived from the polyisocyanate and the hydroxyl group derived from the polyether polyol and the polyether monoalcohol is chosen in the NCO / OH range between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1.

[0152] The polyether polyol compound which is represented by the formula R1—[(O—R2 )k—OH] m and which can be used preferably to obtain the associative thickener represented by the general formula (1) can be obtained by polymerization by addition of an m-hydric polyol with an alkylene oxide, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, butylene oxide, or epichlorohydrin, or with styrene oxide, and the like.

[0153] The polyols should preferably be di- to octahydric polyols.Examples of di- to octahydric polyols include dihydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol and neopentyl glycol; trihydric alcohols, such as glycerol, trioxyisobutane, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,3-pentanetriol, 2-methyl-1,2,3-propanetriol, 2-methyl-2,3,4-butanetriol, 2-ethyl-1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3,4-pentanetriol, 2,3,4-hexanetriol, 4-propyl-3,4,5-heptanetriol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,3,4-pentanetriol, penta-methylglycerol, pentaglycerol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,4-pentanetriol, trimethylolethane, and trimethylolpropane; Tetrahydric alcohols, such as pentaerythritol, 1,2,3,4-pentanetetrol, 2,3,4,5-hexanetetrol, 1,2,4,5-pentanetetrol and 1,3,4,5-hexanetetrol; pentahydric alcohols, such as adonitol, arabitol and xylitol; hexahydric alcohols, such as dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol and iditol; and octahydric alcohols, such as sucrose.

[0154] Also, R2 is determined by the alkylene oxide, styrene oxide, or similar compound to which it is added. In particular, for availability and excellent effects, an alkylene oxide having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, or styrene oxide, is preferable.

[0155] The alkylene oxide, styrene oxide, or similar compound to be subjected to addition may undergo single polymerization, random polymerization, or block polymerization of at least two members. The addition procedure may be a conventional procedure. Also, the degree of polymerization k may be chosen from the range of 0 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 500, and more preferably ideally in the range of 10 to 200. Furthermore, the ratio of the ethylene group occupying R2 should preferably be in the range of 50 to 100% by mass relative to the total amount of R2. In such cases, the appropriate associative thickener within the meaning of the present invention is obtained.

[0156] In addition, the molecular weight of the polyether polyol compound which is represented by the formula R1—[(O—R2 )k—OH]m, should preferably be chosen in the range of 500 to 100,000, and should more preferably be chosen in the range of 1,000 to 50,000.

[0157] The polyisocyanate represented by the formula R3—(NCO)h+i, which can preferably be used to obtain the hydrophobically modified urethane polyether represented by the general formula (1) used according to the present invention, is not limited, in particular insofar as the polyisocyanate has at least two isocyanate groups in the molecule. Examples of polyisocyanates include aliphatic diisocyanates, aromatic diisocyanates, alicyclic diisocyanates, biphenyl diisocyanate, phenylmethane diisocyanate, phenylmethane triisocyanate, and phenylmethane tetraisocyanate.

[0158] It is also possible to use dimers and trimers (isocyanuric bonds) of the polyisocyanates listed above. In addition, it is possible to use biuret obtained by reaction with an amine.

[0159] Furthermore, it is possible to use a polyisocyanate having a urethane bond obtained by reacting said polyisocyanate compound with a polyol. As a polyol, di- to octahydric polyols are preferable, and the polyols listed above are preferred. In cases where a trihydric or higher polyisocyanate is used as the polyisocyanate represented by the formula R3—(NCO)n+l, it is preferable to use said polyisocyanate having the urethane bond.

[0160] The monoalcohol polyether which is represented by the formula HO—(R4—O)n—R5 and which The use of this polyether can preferably be employed to obtain the hydrophobically modified urethane polyether represented by the general formula (1) used according to the present invention, which is not limited, particularly insofar as the monoether alcohol is a straight-chain polyether, a branched-chain polyether, or a secondary monohydric alcohol. The monoether alcohol can be obtained by addition polymerization of the straight chain, the branched-chain polyether, or the secondary monohydric alcohol with an alkylene oxide, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, butylene oxide, or epichlorohydrin, or with styrene oxide, and the like.

[0161] The compound represented by the general formula (1) can be produced, for example, by heating at a temperature of 80 to 90 °C for 1 to 3 hours, thereby causing a reaction occurring in the same way as that in the ordinary reaction of a polyether and an isocyanate.

[0162] As a compound represented by the general formula (1), the polyethylene glycol-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer is preferred. The polyethylene glycol-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer is also called the PEG-240 / HDI bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether copolymer.

[0163] In various embodiments, it is preferable that the non-ionic associative polyurethane thickener be selected from the steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer sold by Rheox under the name Rheolate FX 1100, the PEG-240 / HDI bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether copolymer sold by Asahi Denka under the name Adekanol GT-700, and mixtures thereof.

[0164] The total amount of the non-ionic associative polymeric thickener(s) will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, or approximately 0.5 to approximately 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions. (g) Non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers

[0165] The terms "nonionic surfactant" and "nonionic emulsifier" are used interchangeably in this disclosure and may therefore be referred to as "nonionic emulsifying surfactants." The nonionic surfactant or emulsifier may have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic equilibrium) ranging from 1 to 7.9 or greater than or equal to 8. "HLB" refers to the "hydrophilic-lipophilic equilibrium" associated with the nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. In particular, the "HLB" value relates to the ratio of hydrophilic to lipophilic groups in the emulsifiers, as well as the solubility of the emulsifiers. Emulsifiers with a lower HLB (such as those with HLB values ​​ranging from 1 to 7.9) are more soluble in oils (lipophilic matter) and are more suitable for use in water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions.Emulsifiers with higher HLB values ​​(such as those with HLB values ​​above 8) are more soluble in water (hydrophilic matter) and are more suitable for oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions.

[0166] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers include alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) may be selected from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof. 1. The alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) that are preferentially used are those containing at least one alkyl radical in C8-C30, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) motifs ranging from 2 to 200. Examples include (INCI name), PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cocoate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. 2. The alkyl and polyalkyl poly(ethylene oxide) ethers that are preferentially used are those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with an ethylene oxide (EO) number ranging from 3 to 200. Examples include laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-23, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-15, ceteth-23, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-20, oleth-50, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth-6, steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40, steareth-100, beheneth-100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12-15 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7 and trideceth-10, and their mixtures. 3. The polyoxyethylened alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan that are preferentially used are those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) motifs ranging from 0 to 100. Examples include sorbitan laurate, sorbitan laurate 4 EO, sorbitan laurate 20 EO (polysorbate 20), sorbitan palmitate 20 EO (polysorbate 40), sorbitan stearate 20 EO (polysorbate 60), sorbitan oleate 20 EO (polysorbate 80) and sorbitan trioleate 20 EO (polysorbate 85). 4. The alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylenated sorbitan ethers that are preferentially used are those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) motifs ranging from 0 to 100.

[0167] The compositions of this disclosure may include one or more alkali- Nolamides. Non-limiting examples of alkanolamides include fatty acid alkanolamides. Fatty acid alkanolamides can be fatty acid monoalkanolamides, fatty acid dialkanolamides, or fatty acid isoalkanolamides, and may have a hydroxyalkyl group at the C2x position (the C2x chain may be substituted by one or more -OH groups). Non-limiting examples include fatty acid diethanolamides (DEA) or fatty acid monoethanolamides (MEA), fatty acid monoisopropanolamides (MIPA), fatty acid diisopropanolamides (DIPA), and fatty acid glucamides (acyl glucamides).

[0168] Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides include those formed by the reaction of an alkanolamine and a C6-C36 fatty acid. Examples include, but are not limited to: oleic acid diethanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide (stearamide MEA), behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide (isostearamide MIPA), erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoisopropanolamide (cocamide MIPA), coconut acid monoethanolamide (cocamide MEA), palm kernel acid diethanolamide, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, polyoxyethylene monoethanolamide coconut fatty acid, lauric monoethanolamide,Lauric acid monoisopropanolamide (lauramide MIPA), myristic acid monoisopropanolamide (myristamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid diisopropanolamide (cocamide DIPA), and mixtures thereof.

[0169] In some cases, fatty acid alkanolamides include cocamide MIPA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide DIPA, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the fatty acid alkanolamide may be cocamide MIPA, which is commercially available under the trade name EMPILAN from Innospec Active Chemicals.

[0170] Fatty acid alkanolamides include those having the following structure: O V. JL. 1

[0171] where R4 is an alkyl chain of 4 to 20 carbon atoms (R4 can be, for example, selected from lauric acid, coconut acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, babassu fatty acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, maize fatty acid, soybean fatty acid, shea butter fatty acids, caprylic acid, capric acid and mixtures thereof);

[0172] R6 is selected from -CH20H, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl and their mixtures;

[0173] R6 is selected from -H, -CH3, -CH20H, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, --CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, -benzyl and mixtures thereof.

[0174] In some cases, one or more of the fatty acid alkanolamides include one or more acyl glucamides, for example, acyl glucamides having a carbon chain length of 8 to 20. Non-limiting examples include lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / capryl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, capryl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, lauryl methyl glucamide, oleoyl methyl glucamide oleate, stearoyl methyl glucamide stearate, tournseoloyl methyl glucamide and tocopheryl succinate methyl glucamide.

[0175] The compositions of this disclosure may include one or more alkyl polyglucosides. Non-limiting examples of alkyl polyglucosides include alkyl polyglucosides conforming to the following formula: Rl-O-(R2O)nZ(x)

[0176] • Where R1 is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms; • R2 is an ethylene or propylene group; • Z is a saccharide group with 5 to 6 carbon atoms; • n is an integer from 0 to 10; and • x is an integer from 1 to 5.

[0177] Useful alkyl polyglucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate. Typically, at least one alkyl polyglucoside compound is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, and coco glucoside. In some cases, decyl glucoside is particularly preferred.

[0178] The compositions of this disclosure may include one or more of various nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. Non-limiting examples include alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated, or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranging from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Other examples, without limitation, include copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerol fatty amides comprising, for example, 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono- or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of (C6-C24)alkyl polyglycosides of glycerol; N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (Cio-Ci4)alkylamine oxides or N-(Ci0-Ci4)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0179] Such nonionic surfactants may preferably be selected from polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene motifs are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene motifs, or combinations thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene motifs.

[0180] Non-ionic surfactants can be selected from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or fatty acids, preferably Ci2-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or fatty acids, preferably C2-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100;Sorbitol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid or fatty acids, preferably C2-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of a C8-C24 fatty acid or fatty acids, preferably C2-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of a C8-C24 fatty alcohol or fatty alcohols, preferably C2-C22; and mixtures thereof.

[0181] Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be cited include ethylene oxide adducts with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, particularly those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (under CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and their mixtures.

[0182] Examples of fatty acid glyceryl esters include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof.

[0183] Examples of glyceryl esters of C8-C24 alkoxylated fatty acids include polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate.

[0184] Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEG1N by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0185] The total amount of one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers in the compositions, if present, will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight of one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers. In other embodiments, the compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, or approximately 1 to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions. (h) Water-soluble organic solvents

[0186] The term "water-soluble organic solvent" is interchangeable with the terms "water-soluble solvent" and "water-miscible solvent" and refers to a compound that is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., alcohols of the class C1.8, C1.4), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0187] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include, for example, organic solvents selected from glycerin, alcohols (e.g., Cho, Ci-8, or CM alcohols), polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of monoalcohols and polyols include ethyl alcohol, alcohol Isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propanediol, and glycerin.

[0188] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble organic solvents include alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethyl-lolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-l,4-diol, 2-ethyl-l,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-l,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as monomethyl ethylene glycol ether, monoethyl ethylene glycol ether, monobutyl ethylene glycol ether, monomethyl ethylene glycol ether acetate, monomethyl diethylene glycol ether, monoethyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl diethylene glycol ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, monomethyl propylene glycol ether, monoethyl propylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl propylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl propylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl propylene glycol ether, monomethyl dipropylene glycol ether, monoethyl dipropylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl dipropylene glycol ether and mono-isopropyl dipropylene glycol ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dhnetyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane and mixtures thereof.

[0189] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and their blend.

[0190] In a preferred embodiment, the composition includes one or more glycols selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0191] The total amount of one or more water-soluble solvents in the composition, if any, will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 20% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, relative to the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 15% by weight, or approximately 5 to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions. (i) Non-silicone fatty compounds

[0192] The term "fatty substance" refers to an organic compound without silicone that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), i.e., that has a solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.1%. They have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.

[0193] More specifically, one or more non-silicone fatty compounds may be selected from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type vegetable oils, synthetic triglycerides, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols, unsalted fatty acids, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and vegetable waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0194] Fatty alcohols, fatty esters, and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular, by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0195] As regards C6-C16 hydrocarbons, they are linear, branched, or facultatively cyclic, and are preferentially alkanes. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, dodecane, and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

[0196] One oil based on hydrocarbons of animal origin that may be cited is perhydrosqualene.

[0197] Vegetable or synthetic triglyceride oils are preferably chosen from among liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, bone marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.

[0198] Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, containing more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably selected from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.

[0199] Fluorinated oils may be selected from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, marketed under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetrafluorohexane, marketed under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl marketed under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholinic derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine marketed under the name PF 5052® by 3M.

[0200] The fatty alcohols that can be used in the cosmetic composition of step a) are fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms: examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol.

[0201] The unsalted fatty acids that can be used in the cosmetic composition of step a) can be saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are more particularly selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

[0202] These acids are not salted. This means that they are introduced in the form of free acids and that the composition does not include any alkaline agent leading to their salification.

[0203] Esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, which may be used in the cosmetic composition used in step a) are esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26, linear or branched C1-C26, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26, mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, the total number of carbons of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10. Examples of monoesters include dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate;isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isonanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyle stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyle or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

[0204] Still within the context of this variant, C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acid esters and C1-C22 alcohol esters and C2-C26 mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acid esters and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohol esters may also be used.

[0205] In particular, mention may also be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecyleneate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; pentaerythrityl dicaprylate glycol; propylene dicaprate glycol; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

[0206] Of the esters mentioned above, it is preferable to use palmitates ethyl, isopropyl, myristyle, cetyl or stearyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isonanoate or cetyl octanoate.

[0207] The esters according to this embodiment may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate. More specifically, mono- and diesters are used, and in particular, mono- or di-oleate, β-stearate, β-behenate, β-oleopalmitate, β-linoleate, β-linolenate, or β-oleostearate of sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose.

[0208] The non-silicone wax or waxes that can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen, in particular, from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes, for example olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax marketed by Bertin (France), animal waxes, for example beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabelline); other waxes or waxy starting materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes such as the product marketed by Sophim under reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

[0209] In a preferred embodiment, one or more non-silicone fatty compounds are selected from oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty esters, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof.

[0210] The total amount of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds in the leave-on compositions, if present, will vary. However, in various embodiments, the compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 20% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, relative to the total weight of the compositions. In other embodiments, the compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 20% by weight, about 1 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 12% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 20% by weight, about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 2 to about 12% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 5% by weight, or about 3 to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions. (j) Miscellaneous ingredients

[0211] The compositions optionally include or exclude (or are essentially free from) one or more miscellaneous ingredients. Miscellaneous ingredients are ingredients that are compatible with the compositions and do not disrupt or materially affect the fundamental and innovative properties of the compositions. Non-limiting examples of ingredients include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, etc.), compositional colorants, etc. In various embodiments, the miscellaneous ingredients are selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, compositional colorants, and mixtures thereof.In the context of this disclosure, a "composition colorant" is a compound that colors the composition but does not have a noticeable coloring effect on hair. In other words, the composition colorant is included to give the composition color for aesthetic purposes but is not intended to impart coloring properties to hair. Hair gels, for example, may come in a variety of different colors (e.g., light blue, light pink, etc.), but applying the hair gel to the hair does not visibly change the hair color.

[0212] The total quantity of one or more miscellaneous ingredients in the compositions, if present, will vary. Nevertheless, in various embodiments, the compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, relative to the total weight of the compositions.In other embodiments, the compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, or approximately 2 to approximately 5% by weight, per . relative to the total weight of the compositions. Exclusions

[0213] All components presented positively in this disclosure may be excluded negatively from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "free", "substantially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components that are presented positively in this disclosure.

[0214] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of ethylene carbonate. In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of carbonates other than one or more cyclic carbonates. Similarly, in various embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of linear carbonates, for example, dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, etc. In various embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of cyclic lactones (for example, valerolactone, caprolactone, pantolactone, meadowlactone, etc.), free or essentially free of heterocyclic molecules (for example, 2-oxazolidinone, 2-imidazolidinone, etc.).), free or essentially free from sulfones (dimethylsulfone, 2,3,4,5-tetrahydrothiophene-l,l-dioxide), and / or free or essentially free from ureas (e.g., urea, ethylene urea, etc.).

[0215] In still other embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or substantially free of carbonates other than propylene carbonate.

[0216] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of cationic surfactants. In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of cationic conditioning polymers. Similarly, in various embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of polyquatemium compounds. In other embodiments, the composition is free or essentially free of cationic surfactants and cationic conditioning polymers.

[0217] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or substantially free of anionic surfactants.

[0218] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or substantially free of polymers, copolymers and crosslinked polymers formed with acrylate or methacrylate monomers, for example, free or substantially free of polyacrylic acid and polyacrylate polymers and crosslinked polymers.

[0219] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or substantially free of N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamide. In one embodiment, the hair treatment composition is free or substantially free of all mercaptoacetamide.

[0220] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or essentially free of fatty alcohols. In other embodiments, however, the composition includes one or more fatty alcohols, for example, in an amount of about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, more preferably in an amount of about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment composition. Suitable fatty alcohols, if present, include those having a fatty group with a carbon chain of more than 8 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 8 to 50 carbon atoms, 8 to 40 carbon atoms, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, 8 to 22 carbon atoms, 12 to 22 carbon atoms or 12 to 18 carbon atoms, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.In some cases, the fatty alcohol group has a carbon chain of 10 to 20 carbon atoms or 10 to 18 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols can be selected from polyethylene glycol ethers, such as those having a fatty alcohol group with a carbon chain of 12 to 16 or 12 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0221] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or substantially free of silicones other than amino-functionalized silicones. Similarly, in various embodiments, the composition is free or substantially free of silicones other than amodimethicone.

[0222] In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or substantially free of monosaccharides and disaccharides. For example, the composition is free or substantially free of ribose, arabinose, glucose, fructose, xylose, sucrose and / or methyl glucoside.

[0223] In various embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or substantially free of formaldehyde, formaldehyde derivatives, formalin, and compounds that produce formaldehyde when heated.

[0224] In other embodiments, the hair treatment composition is free or substantially free of arabinose, keratin, peptides or a mixture thereof. Methods of implementation

[0225] In various embodiments, the processes of this disclosure relate to reducing frizz or increasing the smoothness of hair, comprising or consisting of:

[0226] (i) the application of a hair treatment composition to hair born requiring a reduction in frizz or an increase in smooth texture; the composition comprising or consisting of:

[0227] (a) about 1 to about 15% by weight, preferably about 3 to about 15% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 10% by weight of propylene carbonate;

[0228] in which the composition is free from alkylene carbonates, cyclic carbonates other than propylene carbonate and N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamides;

[0229] (b) about 50 to about 90% by weight, preferably about 55 to about 85% by weight, preferably about 60 to about 80% by weight of water;

[0230] (c) optionally, about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more silicones, preferably one or more amino-functionalized silicones, for example one or more amino-functionalized silicones selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis(C13-C15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, or a mixture thereof; preferably wherein the one or more amino-functionalized silicones are amodimethicone;

[0231] (d) optionally, one or more film-forming polymers;

[0232] (e) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of one or more polysaccharides, preferably wherein the one or more polysaccharides are selected from starches, modified starches, gums, modified gums, celluloses, modified celluloses, or a mixture thereof, preferably one or more polysaccharides are selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, guar gum and its derivatives, cellulose and its derivatives, and a mixture thereof;

[0233] (f) optionally from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.1 about 4% by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of one or more nonionic associative polymeric thickeners, preferably wherein the one or more nonionic associative polymeric thickeners are selected from polyurethane thickeners, preferably selected from polyurethane / polyether thickeners, for example, one or more polyurethane / polyether thickeners selected from PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether, PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, PEG-150 / decyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer, or a mixture thereof;

[0234] (g) optionally, about 0.2 to about 8% by weight, preferably about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more surfactants or emulsifiers, preferably one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers, more preferably wherein the one or more nonionic surfactants or emulsifiers are selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, ethoxylated mono- or diglycerides, sorbitan esters, ethoxylated sorbitan esters, fatty acid glycol esters, ethylene oxide, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides and mixtures thereof, for example, one or more alkyl or polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with an ethylene oxide (EO) number of motifs ranging from 3 to 200, in particular, selected from the laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-23, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-15, ceteth-23, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12,oleth-20, oleth-50, phytosterol 30 OE, steareth-6, steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40, steareth-100, beheneth-100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12-15 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7 and trideceth-10, or mixtures thereof; ,

[0235] (h) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, more preferably of about 1 to about 12% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 10% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents, wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from glycerin, C1-C6 monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, or a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from glycerin, glycols (for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), or a combination thereof; and

[0236] (i) optionally, about 0.1 to about 12% by weight, preferably about 1 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 2 to about 8% by weight of one or more non-silicone fatty compounds, preferably wherein the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds are selected from oils, waxes, linear or branched alkanes, fatty esters, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, cetyl esters, triglycerides, or a mixture thereof, more preferably wherein the one or more non-silicone fatty compounds comprise or consist of one or more linear or branched alkanes, oils or a mixture thereof;

[0237] (j) optionally, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably about 0.1 at about 8% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 5% by weight of one or more miscellaneous ingredients, preferably one or more ingredients various selected from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, chelating agents, buffers, antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, amino acids, botanical extracts, UV filtering agents, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or isolates, fillers (e.g., organic and / or inorganic fillers such as talc, calcium carbonate, silica, special materials, etc.), compositional colorants, or a mixture thereof;

[0238] in which all percentages by weight are based on a total weight of the composition.

[0239] (ii) after rinsing the hair composition, subjecting the hair to heat treatment, wherein the heat treatment heats the hair to a temperature of at least 150°C, preferably in which the hair is treated with a hot iron, in particular a flat iron, at a temperature of about 150 to about 280°C.

[0240] The processes of this disclosure are particularly useful for treating human hair, especially human hair (the top of the head as opposed to eyelashes, eyebrows, or facial hair). Treatment with the compositions improves fiber alignment, reduces frizz, and imparts a smooth texture to the hair. Hair is preferably wet or damp when the hair treatment compositions of this disclosure are applied, but the hair treatment composition can also be applied to dry hair. Applying the hair treatment compositions to the hair will moisten the hair because the compositions are aqueous (containing a large proportion of water).Therefore, after massaging or spreading the hair treatment product throughout the hair, and rinsing it out, the hair can be dried, for example, with a hairdryer. Once dry, the hair can be heat-treated. For example, the hair can be styled with a hot iron, specifically a flat iron. The temperature of the flat iron can be from approximately 180°C to approximately 280°C, or from approximately 190°C to approximately 250°C. Typically, the hot iron is passed over the hair at least once, at least twice, at least three times, or more.

[0241] An implementation of this disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. These examples are intended to illustrate the technology but are not limiting in nature. Example 1

[0242] Composition: Initial application: 2 hours at 80% humidity. After 3 shampoos: 3 shampoos + 2 hours at 80% humidity. Humidity ABABABABAB Propylene Carbonate 10 water 89 100 Miscellaneous1 < 1 pH 5.7 5 Smooth texture* 4 3 4 2 4 3 3 1 Softness* 4 3 4 2 4 3 3 1 Alignment* 5 3 3 1 4 1 3 1 Frizz control 5 3 3 1 4 1 3 1

[0243] 1 For example, fillers, pH adjusters, preservatives, botanical extracts, perfumes, tampons, stabilizers, vitamins and / or emollients, etc.

[0244] * On a scale of 1 to 5, 5 is the best, 1 is the worst.

[0245] A: Inventive

[0246] B: Witness

[0247] Tests were carried out on strands of curly hair (medium-bleached hair with a 2b curl pattern) to determine how the compositions in the table above affected the hair. All hair strands were initially washed with a standard shampoo. The shampoo was rinsed from the hair strands, and the hair strands were towel-dried. The damp hair strands were then treated with one of the compositions shown in the table above (approximately 1 gram of composition per gram of hair). After application, all compositions were left on the hair for 10 minutes. The compositions were then rinsed from the hair strands, and the hair strands were blow-dried. The dried hair strands were treated with a hot flat iron at a temperature of approximately 232°C.The hair was passed through a hot iron three times, rinsed with water, and air-dried to return to its natural curl pattern. After treatment, the strands were assessed for smoothness, softness, alignment, and frizz control on a scale of 1 to 5 (1 being the worst and 5 the best). The strands were then placed in a humidity chamber at 80% RH and a temperature of 25°C for two hours. After two hours, the hair strands were again assessed for smoothness, softness, alignment, and frizz control. frizz control was assessed on a scale of 1 to 5. The hair strands were then washed with the same standard shampoo three times consecutively (repeatedly), air-dried, and again assessed for smoothness, softness, alignment, and frizz control on a scale of 1 to 5. They were then placed in a humidity chamber at 80% RH and 25°C for two hours. After two hours, the strands were assessed for smoothness, softness, alignment, and frizz control on the same scale of 1 to 5. The results are shown in the figure. As can be seen, the strands treated according to the inventive treatment showed lasting smoothness, softness, and frizz control compared to the control.

[0248] The preceding description illustrates and describes the disclosure. Furthermore, the disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments. However, as mentioned above, it should be understood that it is suitable for use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments, and that it is suitable for changes or modifications in the scope of the inventive concepts as expressed herein, in accordance with the teachings above and / or the skills or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described herein are further intended to explain the best known embodiments of the applicant and to enable other persons skilled in the art to use the disclosure in such or other embodiments, and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof.Consequently, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. The appended claims are also intended to be interpreted to include other embodiments.

[0249] As used herein, the terms “comprising”, “having” and “including” are used in their broad and non-limiting sense.

[0250] The terms "a," "an," "the," and "the" are understood to encompass both the plural and the singular. Thus, the phrase "a mixture of" also refers to "mixtures of." Throughout the disclosure, the phrase "their mixture" is used, following a list of items, as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the items: "one or more items selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and their mixture." The phrase "their mixture" does not require that the mixture include all of the items A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of the items A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the formulation "one or more elements chosen from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F".

[0251] Similarly, the expression "their salt" also refers to "their salts". Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an item chosen from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, their salt, and mixtures thereof," it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.

[0252] The salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. The appropriate counterions for the components described herein are known in art.

[0253] The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0254] The term "plurality" means "more than one" or "two or more".

[0255] Except in operational examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions may in all cases be modified by the term "approximately", meaning to within + / - 5% the number indicated.

[0256] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise stated.

[0257] Some of the various identified component categories may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, some compounds may be considered both a surfactant or a nonionic emulsifier and a fatty compound. If a particular composition includes both a surfactant or a nonionic emulsifier and a fatty compound, a single compound will serve only as a surfactant or nonionic emulsifier or only as a fatty compound (the single compound does not serve as both a surfactant or nonionic emulsifier and a fatty component).

[0258] A "rinse-off" product refers to a composition that is rinsed and / or washed from the hair with water after or during application of the composition to the hair, and before drying and / or styling the hair. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the hair during rinsing and / or washing.

[0259] A "leave-in" product refers to a composition that is not rinsed and / or washed from the hair after or during its application. The composition remains on the hair during drying and / or throughout styling.

[0260] As used herein, all provided ranges are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of sub-ranges intermediate values. Thus, a range from 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, and so on. All ranges and values ​​disclosed here are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described here that falls within a range described here can serve as a minimum or maximum value to deduce a subrange, and so forth.

[0261] The composition of this case may optionally include one or more surfactants and / or emulsifiers, for example, one or more nonionic, anionic, cationic, and / or amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants. The terms "surfactants" and "emulsifiers" include the salts of surfactants and emulsifiers even if not explicitly stated. In other words, whenever the disclosure refers to a surfactant or emulsifier, it is intended that the salts are also encompassed to the extent that such salts exist, even if the disclosure description may not specifically refer to a salt (or may not refer to a salt in all instances throughout the disclosure), for example, by using language such as "their salt" or "their salts." Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants and emulsifiers.However, additional cations such as ammonium ions, or alkanoammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, can also form surfactant salts.

[0262] The expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used here means that less than about 2% by weight of a specific material is added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the compositions. However, the compositions may include less than about 1% by weight, less than about 0.5% by weight, less than about 0.1% by weight, or none of the specified material.

[0263] All components presented positively in this disclosure may be excluded negatively from the claims, for example, a claimed composition may be "free", "substantially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components that are presented positively in this disclosure.

Claims

Claims

1. A method of reducing frizz or increasing smoothness of hair comprising: (i) applying a hair treatment composition to hair in need of frizz reduction or increased smoothness; the composition comprising: (a) about 1 to about 15% by weight of propylene carbonate; and (b) water, wherein the composition is free of alkylene carbonates, cyclic carbonates other than propylene carbonate, and N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamide, and wherein all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition; (ii) after rinsing the composition from the hair, subjecting the hair to a heat treatment, wherein the heat treatment heats the hair to a temperature of at least 150°C, preferably to a temperature of about 150 to about 280°C.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises: (c) one or more silicones selected from amino-functionalized silicones.

3. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises: (d) one or more film-forming polymers, preferably wherein the one or more film-forming polymers are selected from cationic film-forming polymers, anionic film-forming polymers, non-ionic film-forming polymers, amphoteric film-forming polymers, or a combination thereof.

4. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises: (e) one or more polysaccharides, preferably wherein the one or more polysaccharides are selected from starches, modified starches, gums, modified gums, celluloses, modified celluloses, or a mixture thereof, preferably one or more polysaccharides are selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum, guar gum and its derivatives, cellulose and its derivatives, and a mixture thereof.

5. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises: (f) one or more non-ionic associative polymeric thickeners, preferably wherein the one or more non-ionic associative polymeric thickeners are selected from polyurethane thickeners.

6. The method of claim 5, wherein the polyurethane thickeners are polyurethane / polyether thickeners, preferably wherein the polyurethane / polyether thickeners are selected from bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether of PEG-240 / HDI copolymer, PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, PEG-150 / decyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer, or a mixture thereof.

7. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition is free of formaldehyde, formaldehyde derivatives, formalin and any compound that produces formaldehyde upon heating.

8. The method of claim 1, wherein the method does not comprise applying an oxidizing compound or an oxidizing composition to the hair.

9. The method of claim 1, wherein the method does not comprise applying thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid or salts thereof; and does not comprise applying a peroxide.

10. A method according to claim 1, comprising: (i) applying a hair treatment composition to hair requiring frizz reduction or increased smoothness; the composition comprising: (a) about 1 to about 15% by weight of propylene carbonate; and (b) water; (c) optionally, one or more amino-functionalized silicones; (d) optionally, one or more film-forming polymers; (e) optionally, one or more polysaccharides; (f) optionally, one or more nonionic associative polymeric thickeners selected from polyurethane thickeners; (g) optionally, one or more surfactants, preferably one or more nonionic surfactants, one or more cationic surfactants, or a combination thereof; (h) optionally, one or more water-soluble solvents; (i) optionally, one or more non-silicone fatty compounds; and (j) optionally, one or more non-silicone fatty compounds; wherein the composition is free from alkylene carbonates, cyclic carbonates other than propylene carbonate and N-alkyl-2-mercaptoacetamides, all weight percentages are based on a total weight of the composition, and (ii) after rinsing the composition from the hair, subjecting the hair to a heat treatment, wherein the heat treatment heats the hair to a temperature of at least 150°C.

Images