Cosmetic active ingredient based on flaxseed mucilage and birch sap.

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of flaxseed mucilage and birch sap, characterized in that it comprises a carbohydrate portion. The invention also relates to cosmetic compositions comprising such a cosmetic active ingredient, as well as the process for obtaining the cosmetic active ingredient.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic active ingredient based on flax seed mucilage and birch sap. FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The technical field of the present invention is that of natural cosmetic active ingredients. The invention relates more particularly to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of flax seed mucilage and birch sap, its process for obtaining and its cosmetic uses. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Flax (Linum usitatissimum) is a herbaceous plant with a thin, leafy stem, producing pale blue flowers. Its teardrop-shaped seeds, brown or yellowish in color, can be dried and pressed to produce linseed oil. Flax is cultivated in most temperate regions, both for its seeds and for textile production.

[0003] Flax seeds are rich in protein, minerals, vitamins, and oils, making them an excellent ally for skin and hair. Flax is used in skin products for its protective and soothing properties, and in hair products because it adds shine to hair. Flax seeds are also rich in polyholosides, natural carbohydrates known for their ability to retain water in the skin to hydrate and smooth it.

[0004] Flax seeds can be boiled to produce a mucilage. The outer shell of the seeds swells when immersed in an aqueous solution, producing a gel-like texture, which is actually a mucilage with a high sugar content.

[0005] During skin aging, the skin naturally deteriorates and reveals sagging skin, sagging of the skin on the cheeks and neck, thinner, drier and more sensitive skin as well as more pronounced wrinkles.

[0006] When the skin exhibits these characteristics related to aging, it is called mature skin. Mature skin has its own characteristics. Indeed, with age and exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays, the skin is damaged, spots appear and the layers of the skin become disorganized.

[0007] In addition, within mature skin, cell renewal and microcirculation are slowed down. The complexion becomes dull, loses its uniformity and the skin is more prone to redness. However, the radiance of the complexion reflects the health of the skin, a dull complexion gives a tired appearance and can accentuate the signs of aging.

[0008] Mature skin needs good hydration to restructure and redensify the skin and improve the radiance of the complexion. However, as it is thinner and more sensitive, it requires a non-aggressive routine.

[0009] There is therefore a constant need to find new natural cosmetic active ingredients with anti-aging and moisturizing effects on the skin, particularly mature skin. Statement of the invention

[0010] The invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising a flax seed mucilage extract and birch sap. The cosmetic active ingredient comprises carbohydrates. The cosmetic active ingredient comprises a carbohydrate portion.

[0011] The inventors have surprisingly discovered that a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of flax seed mucilage and birch sap makes it possible to obtain an anti-aging and moisturizing effect on skin. In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention makes it possible to redensify, structure, and / or revitalize the skin.

[0012] According to one embodiment of the invention, the carbohydrate part represents between 2% and 5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic active ingredient.

[0013] According to another embodiment of the invention, the carbohydrate part comprises: • between 29% and 35% by mass of xylose, • between 14% and 17% by mass of rhamnose, • between 13% and 14% by mass of galacturonic acid, • between 11% and 14% by mass of arabinose, • between 8% and 10% by mass of galactose, and • between 3% and 4% by mass of fucose.

[0014] According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic active ingredient is obtained by ultrasound-assisted extraction of unground flax seeds and using birch sap as extraction solvent.

[0015] According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic active ingredient has a viscosity of between 100 centipoise and 250 centipoise.

[0016] According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic active ingredient comprises a preservative agent.

[0017] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% by mass of a cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention.

[0018] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises between 3% and 5% by mass of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention. This concentration of cosmetic active ingredient gives the cosmetic composition an optimal sensory effect during topical application.

[0019] According to one embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the composition is in the form of a gel, emulsion, cream, milk, lotion, serum, of gasoline, oil, wax, stick, powder or encapsulated.

[0020] The invention also relates to a cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention, for an anti-aging effect.

[0021] The invention also relates to a cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention, for a moisturizing effect on the skin.

[0022] The invention also relates to a cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention, for stimulating the secretion of type I collagen and / or type III collagen and / or elastin and / or hyaluronic acid and / or decorin by skin cells.

[0023] The invention also relates to a cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to the invention or of a composition according to the invention, to increase the luminosity of the skin.

[0024] The invention also relates to a process for obtaining a cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprising the following steps: a. supply of unground flax seeds and an extraction solvent represented by birch sap; b. bringing flax seeds into contact with birch sap at a temperature between 50°C and 90°C and for a period of between 20 min and 40 min so as to obtain a heated mixture; c. applying ultrasound to the heated mixture for a period of between 10 min and 60 min so as to obtain a suspension; d. solid-liquid separation of said suspension so as to obtain, on the one hand, a liquid extract and, on the other hand, a solid residue; and e. recovery of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention represented by the liquid extract obtained at the end of step d).

[0025] According to one embodiment of the method according to the invention, steps b) and c) are carried out with stirring.

[0026] According to another embodiment of the method according to the invention, the ultrasounds have a frequency of between 20 kHz and 30 kHz.

[0027] A very first advantage of the present invention lies in the fact that the cosmetic active ingredient and the cosmetic composition have an anti-aging effect.

[0028] Another advantage of the present invention lies in the fact that the cosmetic active ingredient and the cosmetic composition have a moisturizing effect.

[0029] Yet another advantage of the present invention lies in the fact that the cosmetic active ingredient and the cosmetic composition make it possible to stimulate the secretion of type I collagen and / or type III collagen and / or elastin and / or hyaluronic acid and / or decorin by the skin cells.

[0030] Yet another advantage of the present invention lies in the fact that the extract cosmetics contain only natural ingredients.

[0031] Other characteristics, advantages and details of the invention will be better understood on reading the additional description which follows and the examples which are solely illustrative and in no way limitative of the scope of the invention.

[0032] DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION

[0033] In the context of the present invention, the term “cosmetic active” means a set of molecules exhibiting non-therapeutic cosmetic efficacy on healthy skin, in particular an anti-aging and / or hydrating effect.

[0034] In the context of the present invention, the term "extract" means a set of molecules extracted from a raw material, native or resulting from processing. Thus, the term "flax seed mucilage extract" means a set of several molecules obtained by an action on the plant raw material, in this case flax seed of the genus Linum and in particular of the species Linum usitatissimum.

[0035] In the context of the present invention, the term "mucilage" means the outer layer of the integument of the flax seed. Thus, when the flax seeds are brought into contact with an aqueous solution, they absorb the water, the mucilage trapped in the apoplastic space expands, causing the rupture of the primary wall, thus allowing its release into the aqueous medium.

[0036] Flax seed mucilage represents 3 to 9% of the total mass of the seed. It is located in the seed coats and is composed of a fraction consisting of neutral polysaccharides (75% of the total sugars) and a fraction consisting of acid polysaccharides (25% of the total sugars).

[0037] The neutral sugar fraction consists essentially of xylose (62.8%), arabinose (16.2%), glucose (13.6%) and galactose (7.4%).

[0038] The acid sugar fraction consists mainly of L-rhamnose (54.5%), α-galacturonic acid (23.4%), L-fucose (10%) and to a lesser extent galactose, xylose (6%), arabinose (2%) and glucose (4.5%).

[0039] In the context of the present invention, the term "carbohydrate part" means all the carbohydrates, sugars or polysaccharides present in a solution. Thus, the carbohydrate part of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention represents all the carbohydrates, sugars or polysaccharides of the cosmetic active ingredient. In addition, the carbohydrate part of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprises carbohydrates.

[0040] In the context of the present invention, the term “mature skin” means a condition of the skin from a certain stage of skin aging. This natural process concerns all skin types (oily, dry). Mature skin is characterized by skin that slackens and shows a loss of volume in different areas of the face (corner of the lips, eyes) or the décolleté. On the surface, this results in the appearance wrinkles, but also by skin that appears thinner, more fragile, drier and less toned.

[0041] In the context of the present invention, the term "strengthening the barrier function of the skin" means strengthening the cohesion of the upper layers of the epidermis, in particular by stimulating the formation of tight junctions or by reducing the desquamation of the horny layer.

[0042] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of flax seed mucilage and birch sap. The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention notably comprises carbohydrates as active molecules.

[0043] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprises a total sugar content of between 2% and 5% of the total mass of the active ingredient. In addition, the cosmetic active ingredient comprises a carbohydrate portion representing between 2% and 5% by mass of its total mass.

[0044] The remainder of the composition consists of water and raw materials from birch sap and extracted from flax seed mucilage. In addition, the active ingredient according to the invention also comprises antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and amino acids.

[0045] The particular combination of flax seed mucilage extract and birch sap gives the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention its properties as described in the description which follows. One of the raw materials from which the cosmetic active ingredient can be produced can be the seeds of plants of the Linum genus, in particular chosen from the following species: Linum usita-tissimum, Linum perenne, Linum grandiflorum, Linum lewisii, Linum bienne, Linum narbonense and Linum arboreum. Linum usitatissimum is particularly preferred.

[0047] Another of the raw materials at the origin of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention is the sap of plants of the genus Betula, notably chosen from the following species: Betula pendula, Betula pubescens, Betula alba, Betula lenta, Betula nigra, Betula papyrifera, Betula neoborealis, Betula occidentalis, Betula cordifolia and Betula alleghaniensis. Betula alba is particularly preferred.

[0048] Preferably, the raw materials at the basis of the invention come from organic, ecological and local sources.

[0049] The extract according to the invention has cosmetic effects, particularly when used topically. These effects are linked to a synergistic effect of the molecules present in the extract.

[0050] The inventors have identified a major polysaccharide present in its carbohydrate part essentially comprising xylose and rhamnose units.

[0051] Preferably, the carbohydrate part of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprises: • between 29% and 35% by mass of xylose, and • between 14% and 17% in mass of rhamnose.

[0052] The high xylose and rhamnose content of the carbohydrate part and therefore of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention also gives it moisturizing and anti-aging properties.

[0053] Xylose and rhamnose have humectant properties in that they attract and retain moisture in the skin. This helps keep the skin hydrated, plump and supple, reducing the appearance of dryness and fine wrinkles.

[0054] Xylose helps prevent the breakdown of collagen and elastin, which are essential proteins for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity. Rhamnose, on the other hand, has antioxidant properties that protect the skin from free radical damage, a major factor in premature aging.

[0055] Xylose and rhamnose help strengthen the skin's barrier function, which prevents moisture loss and protects the skin from environmental aggressions.

[0056] According to one embodiment of the invention, the carbohydrate part of the cosmetic active ingredient comprises: • between 29% and 35% by mass of xylose, • between 14% and 17% by mass of rhamnose, • between 13% and 14% by mass of galacturonic acid, • between 11% and 14% by mass of arabinose, • between 8% and 10% by mass of galactose, and • between 3% and 4% by mass of fucose.

[0057] Galacturonic acid gives the active ingredient according to the invention moisturizing and soothing properties for the skin. Galacturonic acid helps to retain moisture and improve the texture of the skin.

[0058] Arabinose gives the active ingredient according to the invention moisturizing properties by forming a protective barrier.

[0059] Galactose gives the active ingredient according to the invention skin-softening properties and helps to maintain the elasticity of the skin.

[0060] Fucose is a rare sugar found in certain marine algae and other plant sources. In addition, it gives the active ingredient according to the invention soothing and moisturizing properties. It can help calm the skin and reduce redness and irritation.

[0061] According to an object of the invention, the cosmetic active ingredient has a viscosity of between 100 centipoise and 250 centipoise. The particular viscosity of the active ingredient according to the invention gives it a particular feel and facilitates the formulation of a cosmetic composition comprising it. In addition, the active ingredient according to the invention gives a cosmetic composition comprising it its pleasant feel on the skin.

[0062] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention can be obtained by any suitable process known to those skilled in the art. The extract according to the invention is preferably obtained by Ultrasonically assisted extraction of mucilage from unground flax seeds using birch sap as extraction solvent.

[0063] The process for obtaining the active ingredient according to the invention is for example as follows: a. providing unground flax seeds and an extraction solvent represented by birch sap; b. bringing flax seeds into contact with birch sap at a temperature between 50°C and 90°C and for a period of between 20 min and 40 min so as to obtain a heated mixture; c. applying ultrasound to the heated mixture for a period of between 10 min and 60 min so as to obtain a suspension; d. solid-liquid separation of said suspension so as to obtain, on the one hand, a liquid extract and, on the other hand, a solid residue; and e. recovery of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention represented by the liquid extract obtained at the end of step d).

[0064] The method optionally comprises a step f) of adding a preservative agent to the cosmetic active ingredient obtained in step e).

[0065] The contacting of the flax seeds with the birch sap is for example carried out according to a mass ratio of flax seeds to birch sap equal to 0.1.

[0066] Stirring and heating the flax seeds brought into contact with the birch sap helps to promote the release into the birch sap of the molecules of interest from the mucilage of the flax seeds.

[0067] The ultrasound applied to the heated mixture preferably has a frequency between 20 kHz and 30 kHz. This step is for example carried out in an ultrasonic tank so as to avoid contamination of the suspension by possible particles from an ultrasonic probe.

[0068] The solid-liquid separation of the suspension is preferably a hot filtration on a cotton bag to remove the seeds and facilitate filtration before cooling. For example, the solid-liquid separation is carried out directly at the outlet of the ultrasonic tank.

[0069] This production process is particularly preferred, since it makes it possible to obtain, from 0.1 kg of flax seeds and 1.0 kg of birch sap, 0.6 kg of cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention.

[0070] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention comprises the molecules of interest extracted from the mucilage of flax seeds as well as from birch sap.

[0071] The active ingredient according to the invention may optionally be used as such, but is preferably integrated into a cosmetic composition, that is to say a composition comprising at least the cosmetic active ingredient and at least one excipient, capable of being applied to the skin.

[0072] The liquid form of the active ingredient according to the invention allows it to be easily incorporated into a cosmetic composition. The viscous nature of the active ingredient makes it easy for cosmetic compositions to spread on the skin, reduces the stickiness and gives the cosmetic composition comprising it a stringy nature.

[0073] The cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention is water-soluble.

[0074] Thus the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% by mass of a cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention.

[0075] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of a gel, emulsion, cream, milk, lotion, serum, essence, oil, wax, stick, powder or encapsulated.

[0076] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. Optionally, said composition may also contain one or more other cosmetic active ingredients.

[0077] The composition according to the invention exhibits cosmetic effects when used in topical application. These effects are linked to a synergistic effect of the molecules of the cosmetic active ingredient present in the composition and of the other cosmetic active ingredients possibly present in the composition.

[0078] The cosmetic composition and the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention produce the following effects: strengthening the skin barrier function; reduction in the color and quantity of spots on the skin; prevention of skin aging; improvement of dermal regeneration; promotion of the organization of the extracellular matrix; restructuring of the dermis; regulation of the architecture of the extracellular matrix. intense skin revitalization, regeneration, lifting of features and remodeling of contours; skin firming; fights against loss of volume and sagging skin by redensifying and giving volume to the skin; visible reduction of existing spots and prevention of the appearance of new spots; even skin tone and improved luminosity; and helps to preserve the harmonious volumes of the face.

[0079] Thus, the cosmetic extract according to the invention can be used in cosmetics for its anti-aging effect.

[0080] The cosmetic extract according to the invention can also be used in cosmetics for its moisturizing effect.

[0081] The cosmetic extract according to the invention can be used in cosmetics to regenerate the dermis and / or redensify the skin and / or promote the organization of the extracellular matrix and / or strengthen the barrier function of the skin.

[0082] The cosmetic extract according to the invention can be used in cosmetics to stimulate the secretion of type I collagen and / or type III collagen and / or elastin and / or hyaluronic acid and / or decorin by skin cells.

[0083] In the same way, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used in cosmetics for its anti-aging effect.

[0084] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can also be used in cosmetics for its moisturizing effect.

[0085] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used in cosmetics to regenerate the dermis and / or redensify the skin and / or promote the organization of the extracellular matrix and / or strengthen the barrier function of the skin.

[0086] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used in cosmetics to stimulate the secretion of type I collagen and / or type III collagen and / or elastin and / or hyaluronic acid and / or decorin by skin cells.

[0087] Type I collagen is naturally present in the skin and contributes to its elasticity and tensile strength. With age, the production of type I collagen decreases, which can lead to wrinkles and weakening of the skin. An increase in the production of type I collagen in the skin helps slow down skin aging.

[0088] Type III collagen plays a vital role in maintaining the structure, strength, and suppleness of the skin. With age, the production of type III collagen decreases, which can contribute to signs of skin aging such as wrinkles and loss of firmness. An increase in the production of type III collagen in the skin helps slow down skin aging.

[0089] Elastin is an essential protein found in the dermis, the middle layer of the skin, which gives skin its suppleness and elasticity. With age, elastin production slows down and existing elastic fibers can break down, leading to wrinkles, sagging skin, and loss of elasticity. Increasing elastin production in the skin can minimize the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin texture.

[0090] Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring moisturizing substance in the skin that can retain a large volume of water. With age, the body's production of hyaluronic acid tends to decrease, resulting in a loss of volume and elasticity of the skin. An increase in the skin's production of hyaluronic acid helps moisturize the skin and restore its radiance.

[0091] Decorin is a small protein in the extracellular matrix of the skin that plays a crucial role in skin formation and function by maintaining the structural integrity of the skin. With age, decorin production decreases, contributing to skin aging. An increase in decorin production in the skin helps firm and revitalize the skin.

[0092] The following description relates to examples of cosmetic active ingredients and cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

[0093] Example 1: Cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention.

[0094] The cosmetic active ingredient according to example 1 is obtained according to the following process: a. provision of unground flax seeds and an extraction solvent represented by birch sap; b. bringing into contact and stirring, at a temperature of 60°C and for a period of 25 min, 100 g of flax seeds with 1000 g of birch sap so as to obtain a heated mixture; c. applying ultrasound with a frequency of 23 kHz to the heated mixture and stirring the heated mixture for a period of 20 min so as to obtain a suspension; d. solid-liquid separation of said suspension so as to obtain, on the one hand, a liquid extract and, on the other hand, a solid residue; and e. recovery of the cosmetic active ingredient according to example 1 represented by the liquid extract obtained at the end of step d).

[0095] The carbohydrate part of the cosmetic active ingredient according to example 1 comprises: • 30% by mass of xylose, • 15% by mass of rhamnose, • 13% by mass of galacturonic acid, • 12% by mass of arabinose, • 9% by mass of galactose, and • 3.5% by mass of fucose.

[0096] The cosmetic active ingredient according to example 1 has a viscosity of 140 centipoises.

[0097] Example 2: Cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention.

[0098] The cosmetic active ingredient according to example 2 is obtained according to the following process: a. provision of unground flax seeds and an extraction solvent represented by birch sap; b. bringing into contact and stirring, at a temperature of 70°C and for a period of 30 min, 100 g of flax seeds with 1000 g of birch sap so as to obtain a heated mixture; c. application of ultrasound with a frequency of 26 kHz to the heated mixture and stirring the heated mixture for a period of 30 min so as to obtain a suspension; d. solid-liquid separation of said suspension so as to obtain, on the one hand, a liquid extract and, on the other hand, a solid residue; and e. recovery of the cosmetic active ingredient according to example 2 represented by the liquid extract obtained at the end of step d).

[0099] The carbohydrate part of the cosmetic active ingredient according to example 2 comprises: • 32% by mass of xylose, • 16% by mass of rhamnose, • 13% by mass of galacturonic acid, • 13% by mass of arabinose, • 9.5% by mass of galactose, and • 3.5% by mass of fucose.

[0100] The cosmetic active ingredient according to example 2 has a viscosity of 180 centipoises.

[0101] Example 3: Cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention.

[0102] The cosmetic active ingredient according to example 3 is obtained according to the following process: a. supply of unground flax seeds and an extraction solvent represented by birch sap; b. bringing into contact and stirring, at a temperature of 80°C and for a period of 35 min, 100 g of flax seeds with 1000 g of birch sap so as to obtain a heated mixture; c. applying ultrasound with a frequency of 29 kHz to the heated mixture and stirring the heated mixture for a period of 40 min so as to obtain a suspension; d. solid-liquid separation of said suspension so as to obtain, on the one hand, a liquid extract and, on the other hand, a solid residue; and e. recovery of the cosmetic active ingredient according to example 3 represented by the liquid extract obtained at the end of step d).

[0103] The carbohydrate part of the cosmetic active ingredient according to example 3 comprises: • 34% by mass of xylose, • 15.5% by mass of rhamnose, • 13% by mass of galacturonic acid, • 13% by mass of arabinose, • 9.5% by mass of galactose, and • 3.5% by mass of fucose.

[0104] The cosmetic active ingredient according to example 3 has a viscosity of 220 centipoise.

[0105] Example 4: Cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion.

[0106] The composition according to Example 4 comprises the following ingredients.

[0107] [Table 1] Ingredients Percentage by mass Water QSP 100 Active ingredient according to the invention 5.00 Benzyl alcohol 0.60 Potassium sorbate 0.12 Xanthan gum 0.50 Hydrogenated lecithin 3.00 Glyceryl stearate 3.00 Tetradecane 15.00 Lactic acid and water QS pH<5

[0108] The composition according to Example 4 can be obtained according to the following procedure: • Mixture A: - Mix the water, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention, the benzyl alcohol, the potassium sorbate and the xanthan gum. - Bring mixture A to a temperature of 80°C. • Mixture B: - Mix hydrogenated lecithin, glyceryl stearate and tetradecane. - Bring mixture B to a temperature of 80°C. • Mixture C: - Mix lactic acid and water at a lactic acid / water ratio of 0.1. • Pour mixture B into mixture A and homogenize while stirring at 1500 rotations per minute. • Bring the A+B mixture to room temperature. • Adjust the pH of mixture A+B with mixture C.

[0109] Example 5: Cosmetic composition.

[0110] The composition according to Example 5 comprises the following ingredients. [YES] [Table 2] Ingredients Mass percentage Water QSP 100 Active ingredient according to the invention 4.00 Glycerin 4.00 Sclerotium Gum and Xanthan Gum 0.30 Benzyl Alcohol 0.60 Potassium Sorbate 0.12 Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate and Jojoba Esters 4.00 Vegetable Oil (Olus) 3.00 Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 0.30 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 5.00 Octyldodecanol 5.00 Lactic Acid and Water QS pH between 6 and 6.5

[0112] The composition according to Example 5 can be obtained according to the following procedure: • Mixture A: - Mix water, glycerin, benzyl alcohol, potassium sorbate, xanthan gum and sclerotium gum. - Bring mixture A to a temperature of 75°C. • Mixture B: - Mix benzyl alcohol, potassium sorbate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate and jojoba esters, vegetable oil (Olus), cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, caprylic / capric triglyceride and octyldodecanol. - Bring mixture B to a temperature of 70°C. • Mixture C: - Mix lactic acid and water at a lactic acid / water ratio of 0.1. • Pour mixture B into mixture A and homogenize while stirring at 1500 rotations per minute. • Bring the A+B mixture to a temperature of 45°C. • Add the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention to the mixture A+B. • Adjust the pH between 6 and 6.5 of the mixture A+B+active with the mixture C.

[0113] Example 6: Cosmetic composition.

[0114] The composition according to Example 6 comprises the following ingredients.

[0115] [Table 3] Ingredients Percentage by mass Water QSP 100 Active ingredient according to the invention 3.00 Glycerin 3.00 Potassium sorbate 0.18 Xanthan gum 0.30 Cetearyl olivate and Sorbitan olivate 3.00 Isocetyl stearate 3.00 Tetradecane 2.00 Lactic acid and water QS pH between 5 and 6

[0116] The composition according to Example 5 can be obtained according to the following procedure: • Mixture A: - Mix water, glycerin, potassium sorbate and xanthan gum. - Bring mixture A to a temperature of 70°C. • Mixture B: - Mix cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, isocetyl stearate and tetradecane. - Bring mixture B to a temperature of 70°C. • Mixture C: - Mix lactic acid and water at a lactic acid / water ratio of 0.1. • Pour mixture B into mixture A and homogenize while stirring at 1500 rotations per minute. • Bring the A+B mixture to a temperature of 40°C. • Add the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention to the mixture A+B. • Adjust the pH between 5 and 6 of the A+B+active mixture with the C mixture.

[0117] The inventors carried out tests to demonstrate the anti-aging and moisturizing effect of the cosmetic extract and the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0118] More particularly, the inventors evaluated the effect of 2 products on the production by skin explants of the following biomarkers: collagen type I, collagen type III, • elastin, • hyaluronic acid, and • decorin.

[0119] The products tested are as follows: • Product A: active ingredient according to the invention diluted to 3% in distilled water. • Product B: active ingredient according to the invention diluted to 5% in distilled water.

[0120] Skin explants were obtained and maintained alive by culturing them on metal grids in standard 12-well plates, in contact with a suitable medium, at 37°C in air humidified with 5% CO2.

[0121] The explants were divided into 3 experimental batches, the culture medium was renewed every 24 hours.

[0122] [Table 4] Batch Treatment 0 None A Product AB Product B

[0123] Explants from batches A and B were respectively treated with products A and B by topical application at a dose of 2 mg / cm2. The applications of the products were repeated for a total of 10 applications over a period of 5 days at a rate of two applications per day.

[0124] After incubating the explants under optimal conditions overnight following the last application of the products, the explants were collected. Half of each explant was transferred into an OCT (“Optimal Cutting Temperature”) compound for cryopreservation and snap-frozen in liquid nitrogen, while the other half was transferred into an Eppendorf tube, snap-frozen in liquid nitrogen, and both were stored at -80°C for analysis.

[0125] Explant sections of 5 qm thickness were obtained using a cryostat (Leica) and fixed with a solution containing 95% ethanol and 5% acetic acid or 3% formaldehyde, followed by a permeabilization step (0.1% Triton), when necessary.

[0126] A saturation step of the non-specific sites was carried out with a solution of bovine serum albumin (BSA 5%) in PBS (phosphate buffered saline, pH 7.4).

[0127] Tissue sections were incubated with a primary antibody specific for biomarker detection in a 5% BSA solution in PBS.

[0128] Excess primary antibody was removed by washing steps with 5% BSA solution in PBS, and then the explant sections were then incubated with the secondary antibody coupled to a fluorophore (in Appendix), and the nuclei were labeled using DAPI (4',6-diamidino-2-phenylindole).

[0129] Finally, excess antibody and DAPI were removed by a sequence of washing steps with PBS.

[0130] A series of images for each biomarker was acquired with an epi-fluorescence microscope (ThermoFisher). The images were collected and then analyzed using ImageJ software (Schneider).

[0131] For each biomarker of interest, quantification was performed on each image by integrating the specific fluorescence signal normalized by the surface area of ​​the evaluation area. Three images per condition (one image per explant) were analyzed and the quantified signal normalized relative to batch 0 (considered at 100%), to finally obtain a mean value and a standard deviation.

[0132] Statistical analyses were performed using “GraphPad” software using one-way ANOVA and Dunnett's post-hoc test with respect to stress condition (95% confidence interval).

[0133] Product effects were reported as relative change (%) from Batch 0.

[0134] The results on the production of type I collagen are as follows.

[0135] [Table 5] Batch Relative variation compared to batch 0 (%) Significance (P-value) 0 0 / A 9 p<0.01 B 20 p<0.01

[0136] In the presence of product A, the inventors observed a significant increase in type I collagen of 9%.

[0137] In the presence of product B, the inventors observed a significant increase in type I collagen of 20%.

[0138] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention induces an increase in the production of type I collagen, with a dose effect.

[0139] The results on the production of type III collagen are as follows.

[0140] [Table 6] Batch Relative variation compared to batch 0 (%) Significance (P-value) 0 0 / A 14 p<0.01 B 25 p<0.001

[0141] In the presence of product A, the inventors observed a significant increase in type III collagen of 14%.

[0142] In the presence of product B, the inventors observed a significant increase in type III collagen of 25%.

[0143] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention induces an increase in the production of type III collagen, with a dose effect.

[0144] The results on the production of elastin are as follows.

[0145] [Table 7] Batch Relative variation compared to batch 0 (%) Significance (P-value) 0 0 / A 14 p<0.001 B 25 p<0.001

[0146] In the presence of product A, the inventors observed a significant increase in elastin of 14%.

[0147] In the presence of product B, the inventors observed a significant increase in elastin of 25%.

[0148] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention induces an increase in the production of elastin, with a dose effect.

[0149] The results on the production of hyaluronic acid are as follows.

[0150] [Table 8] Batch Relative variation compared to batch 0 (%) Significance (P-value) 0 0 / A 41 p<0.001 B 15 p<0.001

[0151] In the presence of product A, the inventors observed a significant increase in hyaluronic acid of 41%.

[0152] In the presence of product B, the inventors observed a significant increase in hyaluronic acid of 15%.

[0153] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention induces an increase in the production of hyaluronic acid.

[0154] The results on the production of decorin are as follows.

[0155] [Table 9] Batch Relative variation compared to batch 0 (%) Significance (P-value) 0 0 / A 30 p<0.001 B 5 p<0.05

[0156] In the presence of product A, the inventors observed a significant increase in decorin of 30%.

[0157] In the presence of product B, the inventors observed a significant increase in decorin of 5%.

[0158] Thus, the active ingredient according to the invention induces an increase in the production of decorin.

[0159] These results demonstrate the anti-aging and moisturizing effects of the active ingredient according to the invention and of the composition according to the invention.

[0160] The inventors also evaluated the effect of product B on the radiance and luminosity of the skin. After in vivo application of product B, the inventors observed an immediate increase in the luminosity and radiance of the skin and after 2 hours of application of product B.

[0161] In addition, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention allows: • An increase in facial skin brightness of up to 1.6% immediately after application of product B. • An increase in facial skin brightness of up to 2.0% after 2 hours of application of product B.

[0162] These results demonstrate the effects on the luminosity and radiance of the skin of the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention and of the composition according to the invention.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of flax seed mucilage and birch sap, characterized in that it comprises a carbohydrate part.

2. Cosmetic active ingredient according to claim 1, characterized in that the carbohydrate part represents between 2% and 5% by mass of the total mass of the active ingredient.

3. Cosmetic active ingredient according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the carbohydrate part comprises: • between 29% and 35% by mass of xylose, • between 14% and 17% by mass of rhamnose, • between 13% and 14% by mass of galacturonic acid, • between 11% and 14% by mass of arabinose, • between 8% and 10% by mass of galactose, and • between 3% and 4% by mass of fucose.

4. Cosmetic active ingredient according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a viscosity of between 100 centipoise and 250 centipoise.

5. Cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% by mass of a cosmetic active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 4.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that it is in the form of gel, emulsion, cream, milk, lotion, serum, essence, oil, wax, stick, powder or encapsulated.

7. Cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 4 or of a composition according to any one of claims 5 to 6, for an anti-aging effect.

8. Cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 4 or of a composition according to any one of claims 5 to 6, for a moisturizing effect on the skin.

9. Cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 4 or of a composition according to any one of claims 5 to 6, to increase the luminosity of the skin.

10. Cosmetic use of an active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 4 or of a composition according to any one of claims 5 to 6, to stimulate the secretion of type I collagen and / or type III collagen and / or elastin and / or hyaluronic acid and / or decorin by skin cells.

11. Process for obtaining a cosmetic active ingredient according to any one of claims 1 to 4 comprising the following steps: a. supply of unground flax seeds and an extraction solvent represented by birch sap; b. bringing flax seeds into contact with birch sap at a temperature between 50°C and 90°C and for a period of between 20 min and 40 min so as to obtain a heated mixture; c. applying ultrasound to the heated mixture for a period of between 10 min and 60 min so as to obtain a suspension; d. solid-liquid separation of said suspension so as to obtain, on the one hand, a liquid extract and, on the other hand, a solid residue; and e. recovery of the cosmetic active ingredient represented by the liquid extract obtained at the end of step d).