TWO-STEP SEMI-PERMANENT MAKEUP PROCESS USING HYDROPHOBIC DYES

Abstract

Title: TWO-STEP SEMI-PERMANENT MAKEUP PROCESS USING HYDROPHOBIC DYES The present invention relates to a process for coloring an area of ​​human keratinous material such as skin or lips, in which the following steps are carried out successively: a) Micro-perforations are made mechanically in the superficial layer of the skin in the area to be colored; b) A coloring composition, preferably liquid, comprising at least one hydrophobic dye, is then applied to all or part of the area bearing micro-perforations.

Description

Title of the invention: TWO-STEP SEMI-PERMANENT MAKE-UP PROCESS USING HYDROPHOBIC COLORS

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a method for semi-permanent makeup of an area of ​​human keratin material, such as the skin, the lips, consisting of implementing a first step of microperforation of said area then a second step consisting of applying to all or part of the area thus treated, a composition comprising at least one hydrophobic colorant.

[0002] Conventional makeup, consisting of applying, topically, a cosmetic composition including in particular colorants or pigments, is painless, clean, simple, quick but it is not long-lasting and requires makeup to be applied daily, or even several times a day. For a very long time, we have been trying to maintain the quality of makeup, to ensure that it resists as long as possible the aggressions that the skin, lips, eyebrow area, scalp, in particular, undergo during the day (meals, drinks, friction, sweat, rain, etc.). Of course, we find compositions on the market that last for a long time but this very rarely goes beyond one day.

[0003] There are also procedures implemented in beauty institutes or salons requiring the simultaneous use of needles (dermography, tattooing) or a fine blade (microblading, microshading) and pigments. While these methods are very durable, lasting up to several years, they nevertheless have the disadvantage of not being self-applied. Indeed, these methods cannot be corrected in the event of an application error. Furthermore, a makeup duration of up to several weeks or even several months may be considered too long by the person thus made up, in particular if they are considering using this type of makeup for the first time. In addition, such methods may make consumers reluctant, in particular because it is known that they are relatively painful to apply and that they can cause bleeding.Thus, these disadvantages, combined with the fact that the real result cannot always be observed immediately after treatment (due to the time needed for healing) can constitute obstacles in the decision to choose permanent makeup.

[0004] One of the objectives of the present invention is to propose a solution which makes it possible to combine the advantages of classic makeup compositions with those used in institutes or beauty salons while limiting their respective disadvantages.

[0005] Thus, the present invention consists of a method for making up an area of ​​human keratin material, such as the skin and / or the lips, in which the following steps are carried out successively: a) Micro-perforations are made mechanically in the surface layer of the skin of the area to be colored, b) A coloring composition, preferably fluid, comprising at least one hydrophobic dye is then applied to all or part of the area bearing the microperforations.

[0006] The method according to the invention has the advantage of obtaining makeup which remains visible from a few days to several weeks, and which can be self-applied.

[0007] The method according to the invention is therefore simple to carry out and can be corrected in the event of a drawing error. Indeed, the actual semi-permanent coloring step is carried out once the perforations in the surface layer of the skin have been obtained. However, the application of the colored makeup composition is carried out in a completely conventional manner and does not require greater dexterity than that used to usually apply makeup and obtain the desired result. In addition, since this second step is only carried out on the area that one actually wishes to apply makeup, the precision of the makeup can thus be guaranteed, independently of that of the first step.

[0008] The method according to the invention, depending on the means used to obtain the microperforations of the superficial layer of the skin, is little, if any, painful, and the bleeding, if any, is significantly less abundant. This represents additional advantages compared to the usual methods of institutes and salons, which are most of the time relatively painful, often causing bleeding which is sometimes abundant.

[0009] But other aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. FIRST STEP

[0010] As indicated above, the first step of the method according to the invention consists of making microperforations of the superficial layer of the skin on the area for which makeup is desired. It is specified that the method according to the invention is a non-surgical cosmetic makeup method.

[0011] This first step is carried out by means of a device equipped with needle(s) or a needle-free injection device, producing either one or more high-pressure jets or one or more high-velocity jets. The device used to carry out the first step may also be provided with abrasive particles on the surface of an applicator.

[0012] These devices are known in the art.

[0013] With regard to devices operating with one or more needles, these devices operate by oscillating the needle(s), at a high speed, so as to make it / them penetrate into the superficial layer of the skin, to a determined thickness, and to make it / them emerge. These devices operating with one or more needles are also generally equipped with a mechanism for adjusting the perforation depth (wheel or stop). Set to a low depth, these devices allow in particular to perforate the superficial layer of the skin, superficially, very significantly limiting pain and the appearance of bleeding.

[0014] The needles are sometimes hollow, in order to allow the arrival or retention of a liquid. This type of device could also operate without the arrival or presence of liquid.

[0015] As a particular example of a device operating with solid needles, mention may be made of those using microneedle patches.

[0016] The microneedle usually has a height of 10 to 500 μm, and in particular has the shape of a pyramid. The ratio (height of the pyramid) / (width of the base of the pyramid) of the microneedle is advantageously at least 1, preferably at least 1.5.

[0017] The microneedles used do not decompose / disintegrate in the keratin material where the microperforations are made. Thus, they are preferably made of inorganic materials, preferably metals or non-metals, and more preferably silicon.

[0018] The application of these microneedles can also take place several times, by vibrations or tapping.

[0019] As for devices operating with an abrasive applicator (head), these devices can oscillate while being moved over the surface of the area to be treated. This makes it possible to perforate the superficial layer of the skin (micro-dermabrasion) or at least to alter it sufficiently to allow the entry of liquid more deeply.

[0020] Devices not using needle(s), for their part, repeatedly produce one or more liquid jets, either at high pressure or at high velocity. These liquid jets pass through an orifice of a determined dimension, with the aim of penetrating the surface layer of the skin, to a determined thickness. In the case of these devices, a compressed gas, obviously purified, such as air or carbon dioxide, can be used to produce the jet. Springs or pyrotechnic charges could also be used, for example.

[0021] The depth of penetration of the jet into the superficial layer of the skin is determined in particular by the volume projected, the speed at which the projection is made, the shape of the jet, the viscosity of the injected liquid, if present, as well as the distance of the device from the area to be treated. These characteristics are easily determined by those skilled in the art depending on the device used and the manufacturer's recommendations.

[0022] These devices are known in the art, and are actuated, for example, by means of a motor, a piezoelectric system, a spring, or an expulsion of compressed gas.

[0023] Preferably, the microperforations are made by means of a device provided with hollow or solid needle(s), and preferably hollow; or a needle-free injection device, producing either one or more high-pressure jets, or one or more high-velocity jets.

[0024] Preferably, the first step is carried out by means of needle(s) or jet(s) of liquid making it possible to obtain microperforations of the skin, with a depth greater than 10 μm, more particularly greater than 50 μm. Advantageously, the depth of the microperforations is at most 500 μm, more particularly at most 250 μm and even more particularly at most 150 μm.

[0025] Microperforations can be obtained by means of a single needle or a single jet of liquid which is moved during the first step over the area to be treated. They can be obtained by means of several needles arranged in a line, or defining overall geometric shapes (for example triangle, square, parallelepiped, circle, etc.) possibly moved during the operation. It is thus possible to combine 3 to 9 needles, depending on the desired result.

[0026] For example, the circumference of the needles can vary from 50 to 500 μm and more particularly from 80 to 200 μm.

[0027] For example, reference may be made to the general descriptions of the devices with needles in patent US10052469, microneedles in application WO01 / 91846, and needleless devices in patents US6689095, US5840062.

[0028] This first step is carried out by positioning the device on or near the area to be treated, according to the manufacturer's recommendations, and actuating it so as to produce the microperforations. The device is then moved along said area, according to the desired path.

[0029] This operation is advantageously carried out on the skin of the face and / or body, whether or not it is covered with keratin fibers, such as hair or hair. Thus, the method according to the invention can be implemented in the area of ​​the eyebrows, whether or not they are completely or partially waxed, or the area of ​​the scalp, whether or not it is covered with hair.

[0030] The method according to the invention can also be implemented on the lips and / or their contour, and where appropriate also the skin in the vicinity of the contour of the lips.

[0031] The method according to the invention could also be implemented in the vicinity of the eyes, more particularly the area under the eye (dark circle type) and the eyelid.

[0032] The first step of the method according to the invention is preferably carried out on an unmade-up keratin material (in other words, on a keratin material devoid of a topical makeup composition intended not to be rinsed off).

[0033] Preferably, the first step is carried out in the absence of coloring matter, solubilized or not, or if such coloring matters are present, then their content is such that the color of the skin and / or lips is substantially unmodified. Preferably, the first step is not carried out in the presence of coloring matter.

[0034] By “substantially unmodified” is meant that the AE measurement obtained according to the protocol below remains less than or equal to 2, more particularly less than or equal to 1.

[0035] Protocol: The measurements were carried out using a CM600d colorimeter from Konica Minolta in the CIELab 76 system (illuminant D65, SCI, Observer 10°). We determine a surface of pig ear skin of homogeneous color whose coordinates L*o, a*0, b*0 are measured. An appropriate quantity of the first composition is applied to the said area (homogeneous thickness of the deposit of approximately 50 pm), the composition is left to dry for 12 hours and the L*ba*bb*i coordinates of the treated area are measured. The variation of the coloration is evaluated from the calculation of the AE according to the following formula: AE = [(L*rL*0)2 + (a*ra*0)2 + (b*rb*o)2]1 / 2.

[0036] Thus, and this represents an advantage of the method according to the invention, the production of the microperforations could possibly "overflow" from the area to be treated, intentionally or not. Indeed, this first step does not color the skin or does not color it substantially, it is not necessary for the line to be perfectly made, nor made only on the area that one wishes to make up in the rest of the method.

[0037] The first step may advantageously be carried out in the presence of a first liquid composition (hereinafter referred to as the first composition) comprising at least one liquid solvent and / or at least one volatile or non-volatile oil, capable of solubilizing at least one hydrophobic dye present in the coloring composition of the second step. The solvents, oils and hydrophobic dyes will be detailed later in the description. It should be noted that the solvent(s), volatile or non-volatile oil(s), may be the same, in whole or in part, as that / those of the coloring composition of the second step. Preferably, this first composition does not comprise any coloring matter.

[0038] Thus, in the case where the first step is carried out by means of an apparatus provided needle(s) or even an abrasive applicator, then the needle(s), the applicator, is / are impregnated with the first composition, in a conventional manner and according to the device used. For example, the needles can be dipped in the first composition just before use, and as many times as necessary during the performance of the first step of the method according to the invention. The first composition could also be conducted from a reservoir comprising it, towards the end of the needle in contact with the keratin materials, by means of an internal channel, in the case of hollow needles.

[0039] It is also possible to apply the first composition prior to making the micro-perforations. In such a case, the perforations are made while the first composition has not yet dried.

[0040] If the first step is carried out by means of a needle-free device, then the first composition can advantageously be used as the liquid constituting the jet(s). SECOND STEP

[0041] Once the microperforations of the surface layer of the skin of the area to be made up have been carried out, a coloring composition, preferably liquid, comprising at least one hydrophobic colorant is applied to all or part of said area.

[0042] Advantageously, the time elapsing between the first step and the second step varies from a few seconds to 30 minutes. More particularly, the time is determined in such a way that the perforations made in the previous step are not closed. HYDROPHOBIC DYES

[0043] By hydrophobic dye, is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a compound in particular intended to color the composition and the resulting deposit, the solubility of which in water, at a pH of 7 ± 0.5 at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa), is less than 300 mg / l.

[0044] Among the colorants that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of Solvent Green 7 (CI 59040); Pigment Green 8 (CI 10006); Solvent Green 7 (CI 59040); Solvent Green 3 (CI 61565); Pigment Green 7 (CI 74260); Chlorophyllin copper complex (CI 75810); Pigment Red 68 (CI 15525); Pigment Red 51 (CI 15580); Pigment Red 49 (CI 15630); Pigment Red 64 (CI 15800); Pigment Red 49:2 (CI 15850); Pigment Red 48:4 (CI 15865); Pigment Red 63:1 (CI 15880); D&C Red 21 or 22 (CI 45380); D&C Red 36 (CI 12085); Acid Red 98 (CI 45405); D&C Red 27 or 28 (CI 45410); Acid Red 95 (CI 45425); Acid Red 95 (CI 45430); Acid Red 51 (CI 45430); Solvent Red 3 (CI 12010); Pigment Red 3 (CI 12120); Pigment Red 4 (CI 12085); Pigment Red 112 (CI 12370); Pigment Red 7 (CI 12420); Pigment Red 5 (CI 12490); Pigment Red 51 (CI 15580); Pigment Red 49 (CI 15630); Pigment Red 64:1 (CI 15800); Pigment Red 57 (CI 15850); Pigment Red 48 (CI 15865); Pigment Red 63 (CI 15880); Solvent Red 23 (CI 26100); Solvent Red 72 (CI 45370); Pigment Red 83 (CI 58000); VAT Red 1 (CI 73360); Pigment Red 122 (CI 73915); Apo-8'-carotenoic acid (CI 40820); [3-Carotene (CI 40800); 8'-apo-[3-Carotene-8'-al (CI 40820); ethyl 8'-apo-[3-carotene-8'-oate (CI 40825); canthaxanthin (CI 40850); Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370); D&C Orange No.2 (CI 45396) ; Natural Orange 4 (CI 75120) ; Direct Orange 46 (CI 40215) ; Pigment Orange 1 (CI 11725) ; Solvent Orange 16 (CI 45396) ; VAT Orange 7 (CI 71105) ; Pigment Yellow 115 (CI 47005) ; Crocetin (CI 75100) ; Yellow Pigment 3 (CI 11710) ; Pigment Yellow 6 (CI 11680) ; Solvent Yellow 16 (CI 12700) ; Pigment Yellow 16 (CI 20040) ; Pigment Yellow 13 (CI 21100) ; Pigment Yellow 83 (CI 21108) ; Solvent Yellow 29 (CI 21230) ; Solvent Yellow 33 (CI 47000) ; Lycopene (CI 75125) ; Rubixanthine (CI 75135) ; Curcumin (CI 75300) VAT Bine 4 (CI 69800) ; VAT Item 6 (CI 69825) ; VAT Bine 1 (IN 73000) ; Phthalocyanin (CI 74100) ; Bine Pigment 15 (CI 74160) ; Pigment Brown 1 (CI 12480) ; Solvent Purple 23 (CI 50325) ; Purple Pigment 23 (CI 51319) ; Dispersed Purple 27 (CI 60724) ; Solvent Purple 13 (CI 60725) ; Purple Pigment 36 (CI 73385) ; Purple Pigment 19 (CI 73900) ; as well as their blends. .

[0045] More particularly, the coloring composition used in the context of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophobic dye solubilized at least in part in said composition.

[0046] Preferably, the hydrophobic dye is not in a form deposited on a substrate. Examples of substrates on which the dyes can be adsorbed include alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum; as well as mica, natural or synthetic, and titanium mica.

[0047] The hydrophobic dyes are therefore preferably not in the form of lake or pearlescent agents.

[0048] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the coloring composition comprises at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, of hydrophobic dye(s), relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.

[0049] More preferably, the coloring composition comprises at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, of hydrophobic dye(s) solubilized in the coloring composition, relative to the total weight of the composition. coloring (measured at room temperature and atmospheric pressure). COMPOSITIONS

[0050] The coloring composition used in the second step, and where appropriate the first composition if it is used during the first step, comprise at least one first liquid compound chosen from solvents and / or oils which will be detailed below.

[0051] The coloring composition according to the invention is preferably in a fluid form. By fluid is meant a composition which takes the form of its container at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. It should also be noted that a fluid composition is a composition whose viscosity can be measured using a Rheomat RM 100 viscometer marketed by the company Lamy rheology.

[0052] The coloring composition may be in the form of an anhydrous composition or comprising at most 5% by weight of water, preferably at most 1% by weight, and even more preferably at most 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coloring composition. It may also be in an emulsified form, of the water-in-oil or oil-in-water type and more particularly in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0053] Preferably, the first composition is in the form of an anhydrous composition or comprising at most 5% by weight of water, preferably at most 1% by weight, and even more preferably at most 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. First liquid compound Solvents

[0054] According to a first embodiment, the solvent(s) are compounds that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), allowing solubilization greater than 300 mg / l of at least one or more of the hydrophobic dye(s) present in the coloring composition.In particular, they are chosen from dimethyl isosorbide; propylene carbonate; from hydroxylated solvents, more particularly chosen from monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as in particular ethanol, propanol, isopropanol; among the polyols which are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in C2-C8, comprising from 2 to 4 free hydroxyl groups, as well as the corresponding methyl and ethyl ethers, such as for example ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3 pro-panediol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol; the corresponding methyl and ethyl ethers; . as well as their mixtures.

[0055] Preferably, the solvent is chosen from dimethyl isosorbide, propylene carbonate, ethanol, propanol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, butylene glycol, 2,3-butanediol, and mixtures thereof. Volatile or non-volatile oils

[0056] According to a second variant of the invention, the coloring composition, and / or where appropriate the first composition, comprise at least one oil, volatile or non-volatile, chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils; liquid, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 alcohols; ester hydrocarbon oils; ether hydrocarbon oils other than the aforementioned solvents; carbonate hydrocarbon oils; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0057] By "oil" is meant liquid compounds, immiscible in water (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably 1% by weight, even more preferably 0.1% by weight), at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0058] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured by the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0059] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging to 1300 Pa.

[0060] Preferably, the oil(s) are chosen from compounds allowing solubilization greater than 300 mg / l of at least one or more of the hydrophobic dye(s) present in the coloring composition. Non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0061] According to a first embodiment, the oil is chosen from apolar, volatile, non-volatile, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably non-aromatic hydrocarbon oils. Preferably, these oils are chosen from saturated compounds.

[0062] More particularly, apolar hydrocarbon oils are oils comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (otherwise called hydrocarbons).

[0063] The volatile hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular: - branched C8-Ci6 alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, - linear alkanes, for example C11-C15, alone or in mixtures, and - their mixtures.

[0064] The non-volatile, linear or branched, apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) may be of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin such as, for example: - paraffin oil, - squalane, preferably of vegetable origin, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly in C15-C28, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-C21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-C28 Alkane (INCI name), such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the Indopol range marketed by the company INEOS Oligomers, - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, non-volatile compounds from the PURESYN® range marketed by the company Exxonmobil), - and their mixtures. Liquid alcohols

[0065] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the liquid alcohols are more particularly C8-C30 alcohols, preferably C10-C26; preferably monoalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Mention may in particular be made of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof. Hydrocarbon ester oils

[0066] According to a third embodiment of the invention, the coloring composition, and / or where appropriate the first composition, comprise at least one hydrocarbon ester oil.

[0067] Ester hydrocarbon oils comprise at least one ester group in their structure (-C(=O)OR, R being an at least monovalent hydrocarbon group).

[0068] With regard to non-volatile hydrocarbon oils of the ester type, one can quote: - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, neopentyl glycol; the total number of carbon atoms being advantageously at least 10. Examples of such esters that may be mentioned include cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diheptanoate, pro-pylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate; , - hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate; - aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate; - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; - esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tridecyl-2 tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate; - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those with the INCI name dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer of fatty acid and dimer diol such as the product with the INCI name dimer dilinoleyl dimer di-linoleate; - their mixtures.

[0069] Among the ester oils, vegetable oils are also suitable for the implementation work of the present invention.

[0070] Examples of suitable vegetable oils include castor oil, lesquerella oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, hazelnut seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, evening primrose seed oil, millet seed oil, barley seed oil, quinoa seed oil, rye seed oil, safflower seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, candlenut seed oil, liquid fraction of shea butter,and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as their mixtures.

[0071] Preferably, the vegetable oil(s) are chosen from castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof. Hydrocarbon oils ethers or carbonates

[0072] According to a fourth embodiment, the coloring composition, and / or where appropriate the first composition, comprise at least one ether or carbonate hydrocarbon oil.

[0073] As regards ether oils other than the solvents of this type previously described, mention may be made of oils of formula ROR' in which the groups R, R', identical or not, represent a hydrocarbon group comprising less than 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably C3-Ci6, preferably C6-Ci6. For example, mention may be made of dicaprylyl ether.

[0074] As regards carbonate oils, the latter correspond more particularly to the formula RO(CO)OR', in which the groups R, R', identical or not, represent a hydrocarbon group comprising less than 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably C3-C16, preferably C6-C16. For example, mention may be made of dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0075] More particularly, the content of solvent(s) and / or oil(s) mentioned above (first) liquid compound(s)) is between 10 and 99.9% by weight, preferably between 15 and 99% by weight, more particularly between 30 and 90% by weight, and even more preferably between 30 and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.

[0076] If one or more first liquid compound(s) are used during the first step of the process according to the invention, then their content can represent up to 100% by weight of the first composition.

[0077] Preferably, the coloring composition comprises, as solvent, at least dimethyl isosorbide, ethanol, propylene glycol, propylene carbonate, alone or in mixtures, and optionally at least one oil, volatile or non-volatile, chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils; liquid, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 alcohols; ester hydrocarbon oils; ether hydrocarbon oils other than the aforementioned solvents; carbonate hydrocarbon oils; as well as mixtures thereof.Preferably, the coloring composition comprises, as solvent, at least dimethyl isosorbide, ethanol, propylene glycol, propylene carbonate, alone or in mixtures, and optionally at least one non-volatile oil chosen from liquid, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 alcohols, such as, for example, octyldodecanol; hydrocarbon ester oils, in particular linear esters, such as, for example, oleyl erucate; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0078] Furthermore, if the first step of the process according to the invention is carried out in the presence of a first composition, then the latter comprises, as solvent, at least dimethyl isosorbide, ethanol, propylene glycol, propylene carbonate, alone or in mixtures, and optionally at least one oil, volatile or non-volatile, chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils; liquid, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 alcohols; ester hydrocarbon oils; ether hydrocarbon oils other than the aforementioned solvents; carbonate hydrocarbon oils; as well as mixtures thereof.Preferably, the first composition comprises at least dimethyl isosorbide, ethanol, propylene glycol and / or propylene carbonate, and optionally at least one non-volatile oil chosen from liquid, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 alcohols, such as, for example, octyldodecanol; hydrocarbon ester oils, in particular linear esters, such as, for example, oleyl erucate; as well as mixtures thereof. Very advantageously, the first composition comprises the solvent(s) and / or volatile or non-volatile oil(s), present in the coloring composition, in whole or in part. Lipophilic thickening agent

[0079] The coloring composition, and optionally the first composition, may also include at least one lipophilic thickening agent, chosen from silicas, hydrophobically treated or not; clays, hydrophobically treated or not; dextrin esters; styrene / olefin block copolymers; alone or as a mixture. Silicas

[0080] Among the suitable silicas, mention may be made of pyrogenic silicas, preferably hydrophobic, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic.

[0081] a) Pyrogenic silica

[0082] Suitable for the invention is fumed silica treated with a hydrophobic surface. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

[0083] The hydrophobic groups can be: - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called “Silica silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are, for example, marketed under the references Aerosil R812O by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530Ô by the company Cabot. - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are called “Silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are, for example, marketed under the references Aerosil R972^, and Aerosil R974^ by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-610^ and CAB-O-SIL TS-720^ by the company Cabot.

[0084] b) Silica aerogels

[0085] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0086] They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the different drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

[0087] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, better still from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

[0088] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

[0089] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0090] The sizes of silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0091] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (MS) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

[0092] Aerogels are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name silica silylate).

[0093] By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0094] Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by silylation, reference may be made to document US7470725.

[0095] Particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will preferably be used.

[0096] As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0097] We can also cite the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the re references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.

[0098] Preferably, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, will be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Clays

[0099] Also suitable as lipophilic thickening agents are natural or synthetic clays.

[0100] Clays are silicates containing a cation that can be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, lithium cations and mixtures thereof. Examples of such products include clays from the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, as well as from the vermiculite, stevensite, and chlorite families. These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] Mention may thus be made of hectorites modified by a quaternary amine, more precisely by a halide, such as a chloride, of ammonium of a C10 to C22 fatty acid, such as hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone EW CE, by the company ELEMENTIS; stearalkonium Hectorites such as Bentone 27, disteardimonium hectorites, such as Bentone Gel ISD V, marketed by the company Elementis.

[0102] Mention may also be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 34, marketed by the company Elementis, Claytone 40, Tixogel VP by the company United catalyst by the company Southern Clay; stearoylkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by the company Southern Clay

[0103] Preferably, the clays are chosen in particular from hectorites modified by a halide, in particular chloride, of C10 to C22 ammonium, such as hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, or even bentone gels, in particular disteardimonium hectorite in isododecane in particular. Dextrin esters

[0104] The lipophilic thickening agent may also be chosen from dextrin esters, more particularly, an ester of dextrin and fatty acid, preferably C8-C30.

[0105] More particularly the ester of dextrin and fatty acid, corresponds to the formula (I): [Chem 1] in which: - the radicals Rb R2 and R3, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 30, in particular 8 to 22, or even 12-18, carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals Rb R 2 or R3 is other than hydrogen, - n is an integer between 3 and 150, in particular 10 and 100, and preferably 15-40.

[0106] Preferably, the three radicals Rb R2 and R3 are other than hydrogen, which leads to dextrin esters having the following formula (II): [Chem 2] in which the radicals R\, R'2 and R'3, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 30, in particular 8 to 22, more particularly 12-18 carbon atoms, - n is an integer between 3 and 150, notably 10 and 100, and preferably 15-40.

[0107] In particular the radicals -OCOR'l, -OCOR'2 and / or -OCOR'3 may be chosen from the radicals caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isobutyric, isovaleric, 2-ethylbutyric, ethylmethyl-lacetic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoaracic, isohexanoic, de-cenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepinic, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, li-noleic, linolenic, punicic, stearidonic, arachidonic, stearolic, and their mixtures.

[0108] Preferably, the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin palmitate and dextrin myristate. Some of these dextrin esters are commercially available, in particular under the name RHEOPEARL from the company Chiba floor Milling Co. Styrene / olefin block copolymers

[0109] It is also possible to use, as thickening agent, at least one block copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, obtained by polymerization of styrene and at least one olefin comprising 2, 3 or 5 carbon atoms and having one or two ethylenic unsaturations.

[0110] Advantageously, the copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

[0111] The block copolymer used in the present invention may be a diblock copolymer, a triblock copolymer, or mixtures thereof.

[0112] The copolymer may also be in a hydrogenated form to reduce residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.

[0113] In particular, the copolymer used in the invention is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / alkylene blocks in C3-C4, a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with isoprene blocks

[0114] More particularly, said block copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, is obtained by polymerization of styrene and at least one olefin chosen from ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene; preferably by polymerization of styrene and at least one olefin chosen from ethylene, propylene, butylene. The block polymer is preferably hydrogenated.

[0115] As block copolymers, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene diblock copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, styrene-isoprene copolymers. Also suitable are triblock copolymers, preferably hydrogenated, more particularly chosen from styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers.

[0116] Such copolymers are described in patent US5221534

[0117] Polymers are sold in particular under the name Kraton G1701E, as well as those sold under the names Kraton G1650, Kraton 1652, Kraton G1657M, Kraton DI 101, Kraton DI 102, Kraton DI 160, by the company Kraton Polymers.

[0118] When the coloring composition comprises it, the content of lipophilic thickening agent(s) represents more particularly from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.

[0119] With regard to the first composition, if the latter comprises at least one thickening agent, then the content(s) thereof is such that the viscosity of the first composition is compatible with the implementation of the first step. Preferably, the first composition does not comprise a lipophilic thickening agent. Charges

[0120] The coloring composition, and / or where appropriate the first composition, may optionally comprise one or more fillers conventionally used in skin and / or lip makeup compositions. Note that the fillers are neither pigments nor pearlescent agents.

[0121] These fillers are colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0122] Of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, they make it possible to give the composition containing them softness, mattness and uniformity to the makeup. In addition, these fillers advantageously make it possible to combat various aggressions such as sebum or sweat.

[0123] By way of illustration of these fillers, mention may be made of mica, silica, kaolin, poly- / Lalanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, modified starch (in particular starch crosslinked by octenylsuccinic anhydride, in particular in the form of a metal salt, such as aluminum for example), boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, magnesium sulfate, barium, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules.Particles, which have the shape of portions of hollow spheres, as described in patent applications JP2003-128788 and JP2000-191789, may also be used.

[0124] In particular, if the coloring composition comprises such fillers, the latter may be present in a content ranging from 0.3 to less than 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0125] With regard to the first composition, if the latter comprises at least one filler, then the content(s) thereof is such that the viscosity of the first composition is compatible with the implementation of the first step. Preferably, the first composition does not comprise a filler. Additional coloring matters

[0126] The coloring composition according to the invention may optionally comprise, in addition to the hydrophobic dye(s) described previously, at least one additional coloring material, preferably solid.

[0127] More particularly, the additional coloring matter may be chosen from nacres or pigments.

[0128] It should be noted that the first composition does not include this type of compound. Pearls

[0129] By “mother-of-pearl” we mean colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized, and which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0130] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials.

[0131] Examples of mother-of-pearls that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0132] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

[0133] Among the nacres available on the market, we can cite the Timica, Flamenco, Cloisonne, Chromalite and Duochrome nacres (on a mica base) marketed by the company ENGELHARD, the Timiron, Colorona, Microna nacres, marketed by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres marketed by the company Eckart and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres marketed by the company Sun Chemical.

[0134] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the nacres are chosen from those having an average particle size (corresponding to the D50 (average diameter, measured by laser granulometry or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art) of at least 70 μm, preferably at least 100 μm.

[0135] As an indication, if the composition contains them, such nacres may be present in a content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, in particular between 0.01 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pigments

[0136] The coloring composition may optionally comprise at least one pigment.

[0137] The term “pigments” means white or colored, mineral or gold particles. organic, insoluble in aqueous and / or oily media, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0138] These pigments can be coated or uncoated mineral pigments.

[0139] Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, titanium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder.

[0140] These pigments can also be organic pigments.

[0141] The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0142] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolics as described in patent FR 2 679 771.,

[0143] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0144] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed or precipitated on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0145] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0146] Advantageously, the pigments may have undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment.

[0147] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen, for example, from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

[0148] The N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, alanine.

[0149] The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above designates in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0150] Hydrophobic treated pigments are notably described in application EP 1086683.

[0151] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine.

[0152] Mention may also be made of the products, as well as their lakes, known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0153] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) have undergone a hydrophobic treatment.

[0154] As an indication, if the coloring composition comprises them, the pigment content may vary from 0.001 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Common additives

[0155] The coloring composition, and / or where appropriate the first composition, may further comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient which may be chosen in particular from silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile; waxes; pasty compounds; film-forming polymers, silicone or not; surfactants; moisturizing agents (also called humectants) other than the aforementioned polyols; antioxidants; perfumes; preservatives; neutralizers; sunscreens; sweeteners; vitamins; free radical scavengers; sequestrants; and mixtures thereof.

[0156] The contents of these ingredients can be easily determined by those skilled in the art, and are such that the properties of the compositions allow their use in accordance with the process according to the invention.

[0157] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0158] The expressions “between... and...” and “ranging from... to...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0159] Furthermore, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

[0160] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.

[0161] Raw materials are named by their chemical name or INCI. EXAMPLES Example 1

[0162] Coloring composition: A solution is prepared comprising 3% by weight of Red 36 in dimethyl isosorbide.

[0163] Device: A Dermograph device from Biotic Phocea is used; position 3; needle Safety cartridge 7 round dermaderm; Frequency: 100 hits / min. The operation is performed on pig ear skin.

[0164] Comparative method and result: 1) Application of the coloring composition: The coloring solution is applied to two samples of pig ear skin, using a classic lip gloss type applicator with a fully flocked tip, in a deposit of homogeneous thickness and left to dry for two hours at room temperature. 2) Rinsing: Rinse the treated skin according to the following two protocols: a) Rinsing with water: the treated pigskin is passed under running tap water for 5 seconds while rubbing. The skin is then dried with a tissue without rubbing. b) Rinsing with a surfactant composition (Ecological Hand Cream, Linseed Flower fragrance; Idegreen): apply a few grams of composition to the skin and rub for 5 seconds, then rinse the whole thing under running tap water (between 5 and 10 seconds) and dry by applying a paper tissue without rubbing. 3) Result: We see that there remains a barely visible coloration on the skin.

[0165] Method according to the invention and result: 1) Step 1: 5 horizontal and vertical passes are made using the device detailed above, on two samples of pig ear skin, so as to form a grid on the area to be made up during the second step. The skin thus treated retains the same color. 2) Step 2: Immediately after the first step, a homogeneous deposit of the coloring composition is applied to the area of ​​each pig ear skin sample previously treated, using a classic lip gloss type applicator with a fully flocked tip. Leave to dry for one hour at room temperature. 3) Rinsing: One sample is then rinsed according to protocol a) and the other according to protocol b) detailed previously. 4) Result: We observe an intense orange-red residual coloration in the form of the grid obtained in the first stage of the process, despite a drying time of only one hour. Example 2

[0166] Composition: A solution is prepared comprising 3% by weight of Red 36 in propylene glycol.

[0167] Device: A Dermograph device from the company Biotic Phocea is used; position 3; needle Safety cartridge 7 round dermaderm; Frequency: 100 hits / min.

[0168] Method: 1) Step 1: Apply a layer of propylene glycol to two samples of pig ear skin with a brush, then before drying, make 5 horizontal and vertical passes using the device detailed above, so as to form a grid on the area to be made up during the second step. The skin thus treated retains the same color. 2) Step 2: Immediately after the first step, a homogeneous deposit of the coloring solution is applied to the area of ​​each pig ear skin sample previously treated, using a classic lip gloss type applicator with a fully flocked tip. Leave to dry for one hour at room temperature. 3) Rinsing: One sample is then rinsed according to protocol a) and the other according to protocol b) detailed previously. 4) Result: We observe a residual coloration even more intense than for example 1, of orange-red color appearing in the form of the grid obtained in the first stage of the process, despite a drying time of only one hour.

Claims

Claims

1. Method for making up an area of ​​human keratin material such as the skin, the lips in which the following steps are carried out successively: a) Microperforations are made mechanically in the surface layer of the skin of the area to be colored b) A coloring composition, preferably liquid, comprising at least one hydrophobic dye is then applied to all or part of the area bearing microperforations.

2. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the microperforations are made by means of a device provided with needle(s), hollow or solid, a needle-free injection device, producing either one or more high-pressure jets, or one or more high-velocity jets, or a device provided with abrasive particles on the surface of an applicator.

3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the needles or jets make it possible to obtain perforations of the skin with a depth greater than 10 pm, advantageously at most 500 pm, more particularly at most 250 pm, and even more particularly at most 150 pm.

4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first step is carried out in the absence of coloring matter, solubilized or not, or if such coloring matters are present, then their content is such that the keratin material treated, in particular the skin and / or lips, is not substantially modified.

5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first step is carried out on unmade-up keratin material.

6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the time elapsing between the first step and the second step varies from a few seconds to 30 minutes.

7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the coloring composition comprises at least one hydrophobic dye whose solubility in water, at a pH of 7 ± 0.5 at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, is less than 300 mg / l.

8. A method according to any preceding claim, ca- characterized in that the coloring composition comprises at least one hydrophobic dye chosen from Solvent Green 7 (CI 59040); Pigment Green 8 (CI 10006); Solvent Green 7 (CI 59040); Solvent Green 3 (CI 61565); Pigment Green 7 (CI 74260); Chlorophyllin copper complex (CI 75810); Pigment Red 68 (CI 15525); Pigment Red 51 (CI 15580); Pigment Red 49 (CI 15630); Pigment Red 64 (CI 15800); Pigment Red 49:2 (CI 15850); Pigment Red 48:4 (CI 15865); Pigment Red 63:1 (CI 15880); D&C Red 21 or 22 (CI 45380); D&C Red 36 (CI 12085); Acid Red 98 (CI 45405); D&C Red 27 or 28 (CI 45410); Acid Red 95 (CI 45425); Acid Red 95 (CI 45430); Acid Red 51 (CI 45430); Solvent Red 3 (CI 12010); Pigment Red 3 (CI 12120); Pigment Red 4 (CI 12085); Pigment Red 112 (CI 12370); Pigment Red 7 (CI 12420); Pigment Red 5 (CI 12490); Pigment Red 51 (CI 15580); Pigment Red 49 (CI 15630); Pigment Red 64:1 (CI 15800); Pigment Red 57 (CI 15850); Pigment Red 48 (CI 15865);Pigment Red 63 (CI 15880) ; Solvent Red 23 (CI 26100) ; Solvent Red 72 (CI 45370) ; Pigment Red 83 (CI 58000) ; VAT Red 1 (CI 73360) ; Pigment Red 122 (CI 73915) ; Apo-8'-carotenoic acid (CI 40820) ; [3-Carotene (CI 40800) ; 8'-apo-[3-Carotene-8'-al (CI 40820) ; 8'-apo-[3-carotene-8'-ethyl oate (CI 40825); canthaxanthine (CI 40850) ; Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370) ; D&C Orange No.2 (CI 45396) ; Natural Orange 4 (CI 75120) ; Direct Orange 46 (CI 40215) ; Pigment Orange 1 (CI 11725) ; Solvent Orange 16 (CI 45396) ; VAT orange 7 (CI 71105); Pigment Yellow 115 (CI 47005) ; Crocetin (CI 75100) ; Yellow Pigment 3 (CI 11710) ; Pigment Yellow 6 (CI 11680) ; Solvent Yellow 16 (CI 12700) ; Pigment Yellow 16 (CI 20040) ; Pigment Yellow 13 (CI 21100) ; Pigment Yellow 83 (CI 21108) ; Solvent Yellow 29 (CI 21230) ; Solvent Yellow 33 (CI 47000) ; Lycopene (CI 75125) ; Rubixanthine (CI 75135) ; Curcumin (CI 75300) ; VAT Blue 4 (CI 69800) ; VAT Blue 6 (CI 69825) ; VAT Blue 1 (CI 73000) ;Phthalocyanine (CI 74100); Pigment Blue 15 (CI 74160); Pigment Brown 1 (CI 12480); Solvent Violet 23 (CI 50325); Pigment Violet 23 (CI 51319); Disperse Violet 27 (CI 60724); Solvent Violet 13 (CI 60725); Pigment Violet 36 (CI 73385); Pigment Violet 19 (CI 73900); and mixtures thereof;

9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the coloring composition comprises at least one hydrophobic dye solubilized at least in part in said coloring composition.

10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the coloring composition comprises at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, of hydrophobic dye(s), relative to the total weight of said coloring composition.

11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, of hydrophobic dye(s) solubilized in the composition, relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.

12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the coloring composition comprises at least one liquid solvent chosen from dimethyl isosorbide; propylene carbonate; from hydroxylated solvents, more particularly chosen from monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as in particular ethanol, propanol, isopropanol; from polyols which are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in C2-C8, comprising from 2 to 4 free hydroxyl groups, as well as the corresponding methyl and ethyl ethers; preferably the liquid solvent is chosen from dimethyl isosorbide, propylene carbonate, ethanol, propanol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, butylene glycol, 2,3-butanediol, as well as their mixtures.

13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the coloring composition comprises at least one oil, volatile or non-volatile, chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils; liquid alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C3o ester hydrocarbon oils; ether hydrocarbon oils other than the aforementioned solvents; carbonate hydrocarbon oils; as well as mixtures thereof.

14. Process according to any one of claims 12 or 13, characterized in that the content of the above-mentioned solvent(s) and / or oil(s) is between 10 and 99.9% by weight, preferably between 15 and 99% by weight, more particularly between 30 and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.

15. A method according to any preceding claim, ca- characterized in that the coloring composition is in an anhydrous form, or comprising less than 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the coloring composition.

16. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first step is carried out in the presence of a first liquid composition comprising at least one liquid solvent and / or at least one volatile or non-volatile oil, capable of solubilizing at least one hydrophobic dye present in the coloring composition.

17. . Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the first composition does not include coloring matter.