Oil-in-water emulsion
By integrating C12-C22 fatty alcohol into cosmetic emulsion oil-in-water compositions, stability is enhanced, addressing issues related to solid particle and fatty body incorporation, resulting in a stable and homogeneous product.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024010868
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-10-08
- Publication Date
- 2025-04-11
- Estimated Expiration
- Not applicable · inactive patent
AI Technical Summary
Cosmetic emulsion oil-in-water compositions face stability issues when incorporating solid particles and fatty bodies, leading to potential separation and instability over time.
Incorporating a fatty alcohol with a chain length of C12-C22, such as cetyl alcohol, into the emulsion composition, along with a fatty substance with a melting point between 30-45°C, a solid non-ionic surfactant, and solid particles, enhances stability.
The addition of C12-C22 fatty alcohol stabilizes the emulsion, preventing separation and maintaining a smooth, homogeneous texture over time, even with the presence of solid components.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Oil-in-water emulsion FIELD OF INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions, in particular oil-in-water emulsions for topical application on keratinous materials, in particular the skin. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Cosmetic compositions come in various forms. Oil-in-water emulsions are sought after for their light and fresh texture but can encounter stability problems related to the addition of solid particles (fillers, pigments) for coverage, sensoriality and color contribution, and / or the addition of solid fatty substances for texture, hydration and nutrition of keratinous materials.
[0003] We therefore seek to develop new oil-in-water emulsions that are stable, despite the presence of solid particles and fats.
[0004] The Applicant unexpectedly observed that adding a C12-22 fatty alcohol, such as cetyl alcohol, to an oil-in-water emulsion containing solid particles and fats met this expectation. Description of the invention
[0005] The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
[0006] a fatty substance having a melting point ranging from 30 to 45°C,
[0007] a non-ionic surfactant that is solid at room temperature,
[0008] solid particles selected from the fillers, pigments and their mixture, and
[0009] a fatty alcohol in C12-C22, preferably C16-C22.
[0010] It also relates to a cosmetic process for skin care and / or makeup, comprising the application, to the skin of the face and / or neck, of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0011] A first object of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
[0012] a fatty substance having a melting point ranging from 30 to 45°C,
[0013] a non-ionic surfactant that is solid at room temperature,
[0014] solid particles selected from the fillers, pigments and their mixture, and
[0015] a fatty alcohol in C12-C22, preferably C16-C22.
[0016] Fatty substance having a melting point ranging from 30 to 45°C
[0017] The term "fatty substance" according to the invention means a solid compound or a compound comprising a solid fraction at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure. Examples include butters, waxes, pastes, and mixtures thereof.
[0018] By "pasty compound" is meant a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
[0019] The fat(s) used according to the invention have a melting point ranging from 30°C to 45°C at atmospheric pressure.
[0020] The melting point is generally indicated on the technical data sheets of fat suppliers, but it can also be measured according to the classic techniques known in the field.
[0021] The melting point of the fats usable according to the invention can also be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments.
[0022] According to a particular method, the fat having a melting point of 30 to 45°C present in the composition of the invention is chosen from the group consisting of solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, butters, waxes, paste compounds and their mixtures.
[0023] Preferably the solid fats used in the present invention are fats of vegetable origin.
[0024] Examples of 'butters of vegetable origin' include Murumuru butter, Mango butter, Shea butter, Cocoa butter and Cupuaçu butter, and mixtures thereof.
[0025] As 'waxes of vegetable origin', we can mention in particular essential waxes of flowers, such as essential waxes of frangipani flowers, mimosa flowers, rose flowers, chamomile flowers and their mixtures.
[0026] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C8-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C8-C26 fatty alcohols. Among the C8-C26 carboxylic fatty acids, examples include caprylic, capric, myristic, cetyl, stearylic, palmitic, stearic, lauric, behenic acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0027] Examples include C8-C26 fatty acid triesters, such as C8-C22 carboxylic acid triglycerides, particularly C8 (caprylic) / C10 (capric) / C14 (myristic) and C18 (stearic) carboxylic acid triglycerides. For example, the product with the INCI name CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / MYRISTIC / STEARIC TRIGLYCERIDE, marketed under the name SOFTISAN 378 MB by IOI Oleo, can be used.
[0028] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate, C9-C26 alkyl ricinoleates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, and stearyl ricinoleates; C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.
[0029] We can also mention the ester of octanoic acid and propylheptanol.
[0030] As "pasty compounds" usable in the composition of the invention, one can Listed are esters of polyol(s) and diacid dimers of fatty acids, or one of their esters, hydrogenated castor oil esters, oligomeric glycerol esters, particularly diglycerol esters, and mixtures thereof. In a specific manner, diol and diacid dimer esters, where applicable, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid radicals or alcohols, will be listed, particularly dilinoleate dimer esters, such as those with the following INCI nomenclature: - polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer (Hailucent ISDA from Estenity); - bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G from Estenity), or phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), - dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Lusplan DDA7 from Unipex), - and mixtures thereof.
[0031] The following products, in particular, can be used in the composition of the invention:
[0032] [Tables 1] Ingredient (INCI name) Commercial reference Melting point (°C) MYRISTYL MYRISTATE MYRISTATE DE MYRISTYLE MB 40 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC / MYRISTIC / ST EARIC TRIGLYCERIDE SOFTISAN 378 MB 39.1 THEOBROMA GRANDIFLORUM S EED BUTTER BEURRE DE CUPUACU 32.5 SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOB A) BUTTER ISO JOJOBA 35 36 BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHY TOSTERYL DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE PLANDOOL-G 40 PROPYLHEPTYL CAPRYLATE CETIOL SENSOFT 39 THEOBROMA CACAO (COCOA) S EED BUTTER COCOA BUTTER REFINED WHITE 31 ORMENIS MULTICAULIS FLOWE RWAX ESSENTIAL WAX FLOWERS CHAMOMILE 36 MANGIFERA INDICA (MANGO) S EED BUTTER MANGO SEED BUTTER / STRAND 32 COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) O IL COCONUT OIL REFINED DEODORISED 30 PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS ( SWEET ALMOND) OIL (AND) CIT RUS TANGERINA (TANGERINE) P EEL OIL (AND) HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL BIOCHEMICA TANGERINE BUTTER SMP 45 Cetyl Ricinoleate CE MB 30 Plumeria Alba Flower Extract Essential Wax 32 Rosa Centifolia Flower Wax, Rosa Damascena Flower Wax Essential Wax 32 Acacia Dealbata Flower Wax Essential Wax Mimosa Wax 41
[0033] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises an essential wax of vegetable origin.
[0034] The term 'essential wax of plant origin' refers to an essential wax obtained from plant material, in particular an essential wax from flowers. It is also referred to as flower absolute wax. These essential waxes are derived from the processing of a by-product (raw wax) of the perfume industry.
[0035] We can mention in particular the essential flower waxes marketed by the BERTIN company such as frangipani essential wax, chamomile essential wax, rose flower essential wax, mimosa essential wax, and their mixtures.
[0036] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one essential wax of vegetable origin, in particular an essential wax of flowers, preferably an essential wax of frangipani flowers such as that marketed by the company BERTIN under the INCI name: PLUMERIA ALBA FLOWER EXTRACT.
[0037] The total content of solid fats having a melting point of 30 to 45°C in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0038] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises one or more essential flower waxes in a content ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0039] Non-ionic surfactant, solid at room temperature
[0040] The non-ionic surfactant, which is solid at room temperature and present in the composition of the invention, is in particular chosen from the group consisting of monoesters of glycerol and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C12-C24.
[0041] As examples of C12-C24 saturated fatty acids, examples include lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), stearic acid (C18), and behenic acid (C22), preferably stearic acid.
[0042] As examples of C12-C24 unsaturated fatty acids, we can mention palmitoleic acid (C16:1), oleic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), linolenic acid (C18:3).
[0043] According to a particular and preferred method, a monoester of glycerol and saturated fatty acids will be used, preferably a monoester of glycerol and stearic acid, otherwise known as glyceryl stearate.
[0044] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises a non-ionic surfactant that is solid at room temperature and selected from the group consisting of monoesters of glycerol and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C12-C24, preferably monoesters of glycerol and saturated fatty acids such as lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), stearic acid (C18), and behenic acid (C22), preferably even more preferably glyceryl stearate.
[0045] Preferably the composition shall comprise glyceryl stearate and furthermore sodium stearoyl glutamate.
[0046] The total content of solid non-ionic surfactant in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 0.1 to 2%, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Solid particles (fillers, pigments)
[0047] The composition of the invention comprises solid particles selected from fillers, pigments and their mixture.
[0048] Charges
[0049] For the purposes of this invention, "fillers" means particles of any shape, including platelets, spherical or oblong particles, colorless or white particles, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic origin, which are insoluble and dispersed in the composition medium. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to provide a mattifying effect.
[0050] The "fillers" are chosen in particular from silicas, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, zinc oxides; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; powders of synthetic polymers, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); powders of polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acids; in particular mineral powders such as spherical silica; glass (borosilicate) and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice starches, crosslinked or not, and mixtures thereof.
[0051] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises a cellulose.
[0052] The total filler content will range from 0.1 to 5%, in particular from 0.5 to 1.5% in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0053] Pigments
[0054] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, inorganic (mineral) or organic, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit made with the composition. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).
[0055] Among the "mineral pigments", examples may be given to titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxides, in particular hydrated chromium oxide, ferric blue, carbon black, and mixtures thereof.
[0056] Among the organic pigments, we may mention in particular lakes obtained from dyes such as D&C Black No. 2, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C orange No. 10, D&C No. red 3, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C red No. 9, D&C red No. 13, D&C red No. 19, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 36, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Yellow No. 10, carbon black and cochineal carmine-based lacquers.
[0057] Pearlescent pigments are for example chosen from mica coated with titanium oxide, mica-titanium coated with iron oxide, mica-titanium coated with ferric blue, mica-titanium coated with chromium oxide, or tin oxide; mica-titanium coated with an organic pigment as described above, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0058] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises pigments selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.
[0059] The total pigment content will range in particular from 0.001 to 0.1%, in particular from 0.002 to 0.008% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0060] Thus, the total content of fillers and pigments will range in particular from 0 to 5%, in particular from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty alcohols in the C12-C22 range
[0061] The fatty alcohols used in the present invention are solid fatty alcohols at room temperature. These include C12-C22 fatty alcohols, preferably C16-C22.
[0062] They are preferably chosen from saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0063] In particular, they are chosen from among:
[0064] - lauryl alcohol (C12);
[0065] - myristic or myristyl alcohol (C14);
[0066] - cetyl alcohol (Cl6);
[0067] - stearyl alcohol (Cl8);
[0068] - arachidyl alcohol (C20);
[0069] - behenyl alcohol (C22);
[0070] - and their mixtures.
[0071] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is cetyl alcohol.
[0072] The content of solid C12-C22 fatty alcohol(s) in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.001 to 1%, in particular from 0.01 to 1%, especially from 0.1 to 1%, preferably from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0073] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises:
[0074] An essential wax of natural origin, in particular an essential wax from flowers, preferably frangipani
[0075] Glyceryl stearate,
[0076] Solid particles selected from fillers, pigments and mixtures thereof, and
[0077] Cetyl alcohol.
[0078] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises: - an essential flower wax, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition - glyceryl stearate, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously also sodium stearoyl glutamate, - fillers and pigments, in particular in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 5%, in particular from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and - cetyl alcohol, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01 to 1%, in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients
[0079] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises a sugar usable in cosmetics such as trehalose, xylose, glucose, mannose and mixtures thereof.
[0080] Thus, according to a preferred mode, the composition of the invention further comprises a sugar, in particular trehalose.
[0081] The sugar content(s) in the composition of the invention, in particular trehalose, may range from 0.1 to 10%, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0082] Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention comprises: - an essential flower wax, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition - glyceryl stearate, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously also sodium stearoyl glutamate, - fillers and pigments, in particular in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 5%, in particular from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - a sugar, in particular trehalose, in particular in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10%, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and - a cetyl alcohol, in particular in a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 1%, in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0083] The composition of the invention may further comprise one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of glycols, vegetable oils, Oil esters, gelling or thickening agents, anti-aging cosmetic actives, antioxidants, pH adjusters, preservatives, perfumes, and mixtures thereof. AQUEOUS PHASE
[0084] The aqueous phase of the composition of the invention comprises water and possibly
[0085] a water-soluble solvent.
[0086] The term "water-soluble solvent" according to the invention means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure). Examples include: - lower Ci-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, preferably ethanol; - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and their mixtures; - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and their mixtures, - and their mixtures.
[0087] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least glycerol, propanediol, optionally one or more polyglycerols, and ethanol.
[0088] The water content in the composition of the invention will generally range from 30 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0089] The total content of water and water-soluble solvents in the composition of the invention will generally range from 30 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0090] The composition will generally also include one or more gelling or thickening agents, in particular hydrophilic gelling agents.
[0091] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include acrylic acid polymers such as those with INCI name Carbomer or commercial reference Carbopol®, copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers, polysaccharide gelling agents such as xanthan gums, cellulose derivatives, mineral gelling agents such as bentones, and mixtures thereof. OILY PHASE
[0092] The term "oily phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils that are miscible with each other.
[0093] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.
[0094] An oily phase according to the invention may include, in particular, hydrocarbon oils, especially those selected from the group consisting of oils of origin vegetable, C10-C40 synthetic ethers, C10-C40 synthetic esters ('ester oils'), C12-C26 fatty alcohols, C12-C22 higher fatty acids, and mixtures thereof, preferably vegetable hydrocarbon oils, C10-C40 synthetic esters, and mixtures thereof.
[0095] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises one or more oils of vegetable origin and optionally in addition ester oils.
[0096] The total oil content in the composition of the invention will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. GALENIQUE
[0097] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0098] This may be a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, preferably of the face and neck.
[0099] It can be in the form of a cream or a serum for the skin, in particular a serum for facial skin.
[0100] In the case of a skincare product, this could be, for example, a day cream or serum, an anti-aging cream or serum, or a moisturizing cream or serum. Preferably, it is an anti-aging serum for the face and / or neck.
[0101] In the case of a makeup product, this could be, for example, a foundation.
[0102] When applied to the skin, the composition of the invention provides an anti-aging and moisturizing effect. In particular, the visibility of wrinkles and / or fine lines is reduced, the skin texture is refined, the complexion is more even, and the skin barrier is strengthened. COSMETIC PROCESS
[0103] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for skin care and / or makeup, comprising the application, on the skin of the face and / or neck, of a composition as defined according to the invention.
[0104] In particular, the cosmetic process of the invention is intended to prevent and / or slow down the appearance of signs of skin aging, and / or reduce the visibility of wrinkles and / or fine lines, and / or improve and / or strengthen the skin barrier function, and / or improve and / or promote hydration, and / or refine the texture of the skin, and / or improve the evenness of the complexion.
[0105] According to a particular method, the composition applied to the skin of the face and / or neck comprises: - an essential flower wax, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition - glyceryl stearate, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously also sodium stearoyl glutamate, - fillers and pigments, in particular in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 5%, in particular from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - cetyl alcohol, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01 to 1%, in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and - possibly also a sugar, in particular trehalose, in particular in a total content of 0.1 to 10%, in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0106] The composition is particularly intended for normal to combination skin, to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging.
[0107] When applied to the skin of the face and / or neck, the composition provides a moisturizing anti-aging effect on the skin. In particular, the visibility of wrinkles and / or fine lines is reduced, the skin texture is refined, the complexion is more even, and / or the skin barrier is strengthened.
[0108] The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, percentages are expressed as weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. EXAMPLES
[0109] Example 1: Selection of a C12-C22 fatty alcohol to stabilize the emulsion
[0110] The Applicant observed, in the control formula described below, the appearance of grains and / or clumps in the formula from 2 weeks, giving it a lumpy appearance, a sign of instability of the emulsion over time.
[0111] She therefore sought to solve this stability problem by modifying the ingredients and / or their contents and / or the conditions of the formulation process. After numerous tests, she identified that the addition of a C12-C22 fatty alcohol resolved this stability problem.
[0112] [Tableaux2] Witness Invention With cetyl alcohol Ingredient (INCI name) % % WATER QSP 100 QSP 100 GLYCOLS 17.5 17.5 VEGETABLE OIL 5.4 5.4 TREHALOSE 3.0 3.0 ESTER OIL 1.6 1.6 PLUMERIA ALBA FLOWER EXTR ACT (essential wax of frang ipani flowers) 1.2 1.2 GLYCERYL STEARATE 1.0 1.0 CELLULOSE 1.0 1.0 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERI DE 0.6 0.6 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODI UM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURA TE COPOLYMER and SORBITAN ISO STEARATE and POLYSORBATE 60 (S EPINOV EMT 10MB) 0.7 0.7 PRESERVATIVE QS QS PEARLS 0.6 0.6 CETYL ALCOHOL 0 0.2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.2 0.2 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0.15 0.15 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 CALCIUM ALUMINUM BOROSILIC ATE 0.08 0.08 TOCOPHEROL 0.02 0.02 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.01 0.01 IRON OXIDES 0.003 0.003
[0113] The compositions are prepared according to the following process: - water, glycols, cetyl alcohol and preservatives are heated to 75°C then the gelling agents are dispersed; the absence of grains in the composition is checked; - the oil phase is heated to 75°C; - Emulsification is carried out at 75°C by slowly pouring the oil phase into the aqueous phase under sustained agitation and maintaining the temperature at 75°C under individual water bath; - the composition is then passed through the rotor / stator for 2 min; - it is put back under moderate agitation, then it is allowed to cool gradually; • at 70°C, neutralize • From 40°C onwards, fillers, pigments, mother-of-pearl and active ingredients are added, • at 30°C, the process is stopped, the composition is thus prepared.
[0114] The compositions are evaluated for their stability at T 3 months: the formation or absence of grains or clusters in the composition is observed.
[0115] The control composition, without cetyl alcohol, shows grains and / or clumps (unstable composition), whereas the composition with cetyl alcohol is stable, smooth and homogeneous.
[0116] These results therefore show that the addition of a C12-C22 fatty alcohol such as cetyl alcohol makes it possible to obtain a stable and homogeneous oil-in-water emulsion, despite the simultaneous presence of solid fats, solid non-ionic surfactant and solid particles of the filler and pigment type. Example 2#: Anti-aging serum
[0117] [Tables3] Ingredient (INCI name) % WATER QSP 100 GLYCOLS 17.0 VEGETABLE OIL 5.0 TREHALOSE 3.0 ESTER OIL 1.8 PLUMERIA ALBA FLOWER EXTRACT (Frangina Flower Essential Wax) 1.2 GLYCERYL STEARATE 1.0 CELLULOSE 1.0 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 0.6 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER and SORBITAN ISO STEARATE and POLYSORBATE 60 (S EPINOV EMT 10MB) 0.7 PRESERVATIVE QS PEARL 0.5 CETYL ALCOHOL 0.2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.2 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0.2
[0118] The composition is prepared according to the process described in Example 1.
[0119] Applied to the skin of the face and neck, this anti-aging serum provides a smoothing effect. In particular, the visibility of wrinkles and / or fine lines is reduced, skin texture is refined, the complexion is more even, and the skin barrier is strengthened.
Claims
Claims
1. Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: a fatty substance having a melting point ranging from 30 to 45°C chosen from the group consisting of solid esters of fatty acids, in particular derived from C8-C26 carboxylic acids, a non-ionic surfactant solid at room temperature is glyceryl stearate, solid particles chosen from fillers, pigments and their mixture, and a C12-C22 fatty alcohol chosen from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol (C12), myristyl alcohol (C14), cetyl alcohol (C16), stearyl alcohol (C18), arachidyl alcohol (C20), behenyl alcohol (C22) and their mixtures, preferably C16-C22.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises a sugar, in particular trehalose.
3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the solid fatty acid esters are triglycerides of C8-C22 carboxylic acids.
4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition further comprises sodium stearoyl glutamate.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the C12-C22 fatty alcohol is cetyl alcohol (C16).
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of C12-C22 fatty alcohols ranges from 0.01 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 1%, preferably from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more ingredients chosen from the group consisting of glycols, oils of plant origin, ester oils, gelling or thickening agents, anti-aging cosmetic active ingredients, antioxidants, pH adjusters, preservatives, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is an anti-aging serum for the face and / or neck.
9. Cosmetic process intended for the care and / or makeup of the skin, comprising the application, to the skin of the face and / or neck, of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8.
10. Cosmetic process according to claim 9, intended to prevent and / or slow down the appearance of signs of skin aging, and / or reduce the visibility of wrinkles and / or fine lines, and / or improve and / or strengthen the skin barrier function, and / or improve and / or promote hydration, and / or refine the skin texture, and / or improve the evenness of the complexion.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Cosmetic Composition containing Frangipani Oil or Fermented Frangipani Oil
KR1020160020038A
Cosmetic composition comprising a natural organic oil and polymethylmethacrylate particles
US20160067166A1
Composition containing 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one, a preservative and / or antioxidant, a surfactant and a polymer, and the method for processing keratin materials from the composition
WO2021110784A1