A process for coloring or bleaching keratin fibers, comprising the application of a composition including amino acid-type compounds and hydroxylated carboxylic acids.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for coloring or bleaching keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising: - a step (i) of applying a cosmetic composition comprising amino acid-type compounds and hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, and - a step (ii) of applying a hair coloring or bleaching composition, step (i) being able to be prior or subsequent to step (ii).

Description

Title of the invention: A method for coloring or bleaching keratin fibers, comprising the application of a composition comprising amino acid-type compounds and hydroxylated carboxylic acids

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for coloring or bleaching keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of a composition comprising particular amino acids and carboxylic acids, before or after the application of a coloring or bleaching composition.

[0002] It is known to implement hair coloring or bleaching processes to modify the color of natural hair. These processes generally consist of applying hair compositions comprising chemical oxidizing agents and optionally direct dyes and / or oxidative dyes to the keratin fibers.

[0003] While these hair coloring or bleaching compositions do possess coloring or bleaching power, they can sometimes lead to a degradation of the hair fiber's quality, as the proteins that make up the hair can be denatured, thus generating labile proteins. The higher the level of labile proteins, the more damaged the hair becomes.

[0004] This degradation of fiber quality can lead to significant breakage during hair combing, particularly when these compositions are applied to sensitized hair. Therefore, it is common to use hair care compositions containing conditioning agents to limit degradation or improve the cosmetic properties of the hair. However, these hair care compositions can, in some cases, alter the color or bleaching of the keratin fibers thus treated.

[0005] Furthermore, coloring or bleaching performance may not always be satisfactory, particularly with regard to color development, intensity, or uniformity, or with regard to lightening, when the hair is sensitized by repeated chemical treatments such as dyeing, bleaching, perming, and / or straightening, and / or when the hair is loaded with minerals and / or their metallic salts. Indeed, tap water can sometimes contain significant levels of metals such as copper, which, by accumulating on the hair with successive washes, can negatively impact the result of coloring or bleaching. Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and / or Their metallic salts are due to the presence on their surface of anionic groups, which correspond in particular to the sulfonic or carboxylic groups of keratin. Minerals, often polyvalent cations, are therefore attracted to and trapped by this negatively charged fiber, forming chemical bonds that prevent their release through conventional hair treatment processes. This results in a possible accumulation of minerals on the hair over time. Such fixation depends not only on the water hardness and the frequency and / or duration of the hair's exposure to the water, but also on the nature and length of the hair (particularly its porosity and charge) as well as its state of damage.

[0006] The accumulation of these minerals and / or their metallic salts can lead to changes in the hair fiber and, in particular, a more or less marked alteration of the hair's cosmetic properties. Thus, an accumulation of calcium and magnesium can lead to dry, dull hair, while an accumulation of copper can lead to greening of the hair.

[0007] In addition, the accumulation of metallic salts (iron, copper, for example) can accelerate damage to hair because they catalyze redox reactions and generate hydroxyl radicals which can be harmful to the keratin fiber, even at low levels.

[0008] This can result in photo-degradation of the fiber, lightening of the fiber, as well as an alteration of the properties of the hair, which can lead to premature breakage of the hair; these phenomena are particularly observed during the subsequent use of lightening products or coloring products.

[0009] In other words, hair can become less resistant, weaker, or even break more easily, or lose its shine, due to the accumulation of minerals and / or their metallic salts.

[0010] It is therefore necessary to find a technical solution to overcome these various disadvantages, in order to ultimately lead to improved hair coloring or bleaching, in particular hair sensitized by repeated chemical treatments and / or loaded with minerals and / or metallic ions.

[0011] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all of these objectives can be achieved through the process according to the invention, which includes the application of a particular composition, before or after a step of coloring or bleaching the keratin fibers.

[0012] The present invention therefore relates to a process for coloring or bleaching keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising:

[0013] - a step (i) of applying a cosmetic composition A to said fibers including one or more amino acid-type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, and

[0014] - a step (ii) of applying a hair coloring or de- coloring composition B coloring, step (i) being able to be prior to or subsequent to step (ii).

[0015] It has been observed that the process according to the invention makes it possible to improve the resistance to breakage of the hair, to strengthen the hair and also to significantly limit its reduction or loss of shine, undesirable effects that may be caused by the presence of metal ions, in particular copper or calcium, within said fibers.

[0016] After implementation of the process, the fibers are as if reinforced, said reinforcement being improved with successive applications of the composition.

[0017] The process according to the invention also makes it possible to provide conditioning properties to the hair, in particular a smooth feel, softness, shine and easier detangling, while also providing strength, body and a mass effect to the hair.

[0018] Thus, the process according to the invention is particularly suitable for sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, especially following physical (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatments, for example coloring, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0019] It is also particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment of hair loaded with metals, in particular loaded with metals at levels of at least 100 ppm, preferably at least 200 ppm; in particular loaded with copper, especially at levels of at least 100 ppm, preferably at least 200 ppm and / or loaded with calcium, especially at levels of at least 4000 ppm, preferably at least 10,000 ppm.

[0020] The hair treatment process according to the invention therefore includes a step (i) of applying to the hair, a cosmetic composition A as defined below.

[0021] This step may or may not be followed by an exposure time, for example from 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes.

[0022] This step may also be followed, or not, by a rinsing step, for example with water.

[0023] The hair treatment process according to the invention also includes a step (ii) of applying a hair coloring or bleaching composition. Preferably, this is a bleaching composition.

[0024] This step may or may not be followed by an exposure time, for example from 5 to 60 minutes, in particular 10 to 40 minutes.

[0025] This step may or may not be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water and / or of a washing step, for example using shampoo. Preferably, step (ii) is followed by a rinsing step and possibly a washing step.

[0026] Steps (i) and (ii) are carried out successively or sequentially, which means that one of the steps is prior to the other step.

[0027] Thus, step (i) may be prior to step (ii) of coloring / decolorizing; this is referred to as a pre-treatment step.

[0028] Step (i) can also be subsequent to step (ii) of coloring / decolorizing; this is then referred to as a post-processing step.

[0029] Preferably, steps (i) and (ii) can be separated by a time ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour, in particular from 2 to 30 minutes, better from 5 to 15 minutes.

[0030] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0031] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may be substituted for it. A / Composition A applied in step (i)

[0032] The process according to the invention therefore includes a step (i) of applying to the keratin fibers a cosmetic composition A comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts. Amino acid-type compounds

[0033] Composition A used in the context of the present invention therefore comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds.

[0034] For the purposes of this invention, an amino acid compound is defined as an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) being intra-cyclic, possibly in salt form; said amine function(s) being primary or secondary amine functions.

[0035] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from among amino acid compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (i.e., not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and / or their salts. These compounds are also called carboxylic amino acid compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0036] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid type compounds selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or their salts.

[0037] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to formula (I):

[0038] COOH HCN(H)P R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 links, preferably 5 links, this cycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or a C5-C7 aryl group, in particular phenyl, itself possibly substituted by one or more OH.

[0039] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 links, this cycle not being substituted.

[0040] Preferably, p=2.

[0041] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched saturated (Cl-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0042] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0043] Amino acid type compounds can also be a salt of compound of formula (I).

[0044] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium and zinc salts.

[0045] Amino acid type compounds can be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0046] By way of examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of configuration L, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine may be cited.

[0047] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

[0048] Preferably, the amino acid-type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and mixtures.

[0049] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

[0050] Examples of glycine salts according to the present invention include sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0051] Preferably, the amino acid type compound is glycine.

[0052] Preferably, the total content of amino acid compound(s) present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better from 0.8 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] In particular, the total content of amino carboxylic acid type compound(s) in composition A according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] Better still, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] In particular, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) selected from glycine, its salts and their mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] Even better, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids

[0057] Composition A used according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts. These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid-type compounds described above.

[0058] Said (poly)acids comprise at least one COOH group (in acid or sal form). They may comprise several, in particular at least two COOH groups (in acid or sal form), preferably two or three COOH groups (in acid or sal form); they are then called polyacids. They may not comprise if there is only one COOH group, then we speak of a monoacid.

[0059] By (poly)acid, we mean monoacids and polyacids.

[0060] They also include at least one OH group, but may include several, in particular 2 to 3 OH groups.

[0061] Preferably, they comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated and linear.

[0062] Advantageously, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise in total 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acid or salt form).

[0063] Salts of these (poly)acids include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, and potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium, and zinc salts. Alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium salts.

[0064] Preferably, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids or their salts are chosen from among the alpha hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals; especially citric acid and / or tartaric acid and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate.

[0065] Preferably, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in composition A according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids selected from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Associative polymer

[0069] The composition A used according to the invention may comprise one or more associative polymers. Preferably, the associative polymers are non-ionic.

[0070] For the purposes of the present invention, "polymer" means any compound resulting from the polycondensation polymerization or radical polymerization of monomers, at least one of which is other than an alkylene oxide and a monofunctional compound of formula RX, where R denotes an alkyl or alkenyl group in the form C10-C30, possibly hydroxylated, and X denotes a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxylated, or ester group. In particular, all compounds resulting solely from the simple condensation of an alkylene oxide with a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, a fatty amide, or a fatty amine are excluded.

[0071] For the purposes of the present invention, "associative polymer" means an amphiphilic polymer capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules. It generally comprises in its chemical structure at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.

[0072] The associative polymers according to the invention are polymers comprising at least one fatty chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and whose molecules are capable, in the formulation medium, of associating with each other or with molecules of other compounds. Preferably, the fatty chain has from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0073] A special case of associative polymers are amphiphilic polymers, that is to say polymers comprising one or more hydrophilic parts or groups which make them soluble in water and one or more hydrophobic areas or groups (comprising at least one fatty chain) by which the polymers interact and come together with each other or with other molecules.

[0074] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a group or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain that may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N, S, or a perfluorinated or siliconized radical chain. When referring to a hydrocarbon group, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon hydrophobic group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol, or from a polyalkylated fatty alcohol such as steareth-100. It can also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0075] For the purposes of this invention, "fat chain" means an alkyl or alkenyl chain, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and even better from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0076] By "fatty" compound, such as for example a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, is meant in the context of the present invention, a compound comprising in its main chain at least one hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0077] Among anionic associative polymers, the following may be mentioned in particular:

[0078] - (A) those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif and at least one ether motif of fatty-chain allyl; and more particularly those: whose hydrophilic motif consists of an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly of a vinyl carboxylic acid, and especially of an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof; and whose fatty-chain allyl ether motif corresponds to the monomer with the following formula (!'): CH2=C(R')-CH2OBnR in which R' denotes H or CH3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n ranges from 0 to 100, and R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from among the alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, R' denotes H, n = 10, and R denotes a stearyl radical (Ci8).

[0079] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5 to 60% by weight of Ci-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates, 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether of formula (!'), and 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is preferably a copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylene-bis-acrylamide.

[0080] Crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 OE) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10) are particularly preferred, especially that sold by BASF under the name SALCARE SC 80, which is a 30% aqueous emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10), with the INCI name Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer.

[0081] - (B) those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif of the carboxylic acid type unsaturated olefinic, and at least one hydrophobic motif of the alkyl ester type (Ci0-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acid.

[0082] Preferably, these polymers are chosen from those whose hydrophilic motif of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) following: CH,“C— C —OH IHR; O in which Ri designates H, CH3 or C2H5, and whose hydrophobic motif of the alkyl ester type (Ci0-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to the monomer of formula (III) following: (m) PL ô in which R2 designates H, CH3 or C2H5, and R3 designates an alkyl radical in C10-C30, preferably in C,2-C22.

[0083] Alkyl esters (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0084] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) (meth)acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of formula (III) described above and in which R2 designates H or CH3, R3 designates an alkyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally (iii) a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.

[0085] Among this type of anionic associative polymers, preference is given more particularly to those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 4 to 40% by weight of alkyl acrylate in Ci0-C30, and 0 to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or to those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 1 to 4% by weight of alkyl acrylate in Ci0-C30 and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer such as those described above.

[0086] Examples include the products sold by the company LUBRIZOL under the trade names PEMULEN TRI, PEMULEN TR2, CARBOPOL 1382, CARBOPOL ETD 2020, CARBOPOL ULTREZ 20, CARBOPOL ULTREZ 21, with the INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and even more preferably PEMULEN TRI and CARBOPOL 1382.

[0087] - (C) maleic anhydride / α-olefin terpolymers in C30-C38 / alkyl maleate such that the C30-C38 maleic anhydride / α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer, in particular that sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608 by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES (INCI name: C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer).

[0088] - (D) acrylic terpolymers comprising (a) 20 to 70% by weight of an acid because boxyl α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation, (b) 20 to 80 wt% of a non-surfactant α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation monomer other than (a), and (c) 0.5 to 60 wt% of a nonionic mono-urethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenic unsaturation monoisocyanate. We can cite in particular the methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (40 OE), especially in aqueous dispersion at 25% such as the product VISCOPHOBE DB1000 sold by the company AMERCHOL (DOW CHEMICAL) with the INCI name Poly-acrylate-3.

[0089] - (E) copolymers comprising among their monomers (i) a carboxylic acid α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation, such as acrylic or methacrylic acid, and (ii) an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid ester, in particular acrylic or methacrylic, and fatty alcohol in particular C8-C32 oxyalkylened, in particular comprising 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, in particular 4 to 50, or even 10 to 40 EO.

[0090] In particular, behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylates, comprising 10 to 40 EOs, in particular 18 to 30 EOs, can be cited as monomers.

[0091] Preferably these compounds also comprise as a monomer an ester of α,[3-monoethylenic] unsaturated carboxylic acid and C1-C4 alcohol, in particular a C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate.

[0092] Preferably, these copolymers comprise at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one C8-C32 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, oxyethylenated comprising 2 to 100 moles OE, in particular 4 to 50 OE, or even 10 to 40 OE.

[0093] By way of examples, we can cite ACULYN 22 sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or ACULYN 28 sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER sold by Lubrizol.

[0094] - (F) associative polymers comprising at least one unsaturated monomer ethylenic with a sulfonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.

[0095] Among polymers of this type, we can mention more specifically -crosslinked or noncrosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salt) units and 40 to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, as described in application EP-A-750899 -terpolymers comprising 10 to 90 mol% acrylamide motifs, 0.1 to 10 mol% AMPS motifs and 5 to 80 mol% n-(C6-C8)alkylacrylamide motifs, such as those described in US patent 5089578 - copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, as well as copolymers of uncrosslinked and crosslinked AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide - copolymers consisting of AMPS motifs and steareth-25 methacrylate motifs such as ARISTOFLEX HMS^ marketed by CLARIANT, (INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) or beheneth-25 methacrylate, such as ARISTOFLEX HMB (INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) marketed by CLARIANT, or even steareth-8 methacrylate, such as ARISTOFLEX SNC^ from CLARIANT (INCI name ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer).

[0096] - (G) associative polymers comprising at least one vinyllactam monomer and less an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer such as vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and alkyl methacrylate terpolymers in Ci-C20, for example lauryl, such as that marketed by ISP under the name ACRYLIDONE® LM (INCI name VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer).

[0097] Among cationic associative polymers, the following may be mentioned: - (A') cationic associative polyurethanes, which can be represented by the following general formula (la): RX-(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L'-(P')p-X'-R' in which: R and R', whether identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; X and X', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function bearing or not a hydrophobic group, or the group L"; L, L' and L", identical or different, represent a group derived from a du-socyanate; P and P', identical or different, represent a group containing an amine function bearing or not a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive, and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusive. n, m, and p are each independently of the others between inclusively 0 and 1000; the molecule contains at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

[0098] Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the R and R' groups at the ends of the chain.

[0099] A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (la) described above in which: R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X, X' each represent a group L”, n and p are integers that are inclusively between 1 and 1000 and L, L', L”, P, P', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

[0100] Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the formula (la) above in which: n=p=0 (the polymers do not contain motifs derived from a monomer with an amine function, incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation), The protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions at the end of the chain, followed by the alkylation of the primary amine functions formed by hydrophobic group alkylating agents, i.e. compounds of type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q designates a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

[0101] Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the above formula (la) in which: R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' both independently represent a group containing a quaternary amine, n = p = 0, and L, L', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

[0102] The number-average molecular weight (Mn) of cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between inclusively 400 and 500,000, in particular between inclusively 1,000 and 400,000 and ideally between inclusively 1,000 and 300,000.

[0103] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group originates from a monofunctional compound.

[0104] By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0105] When X and / or X' denote a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and / or X' may represent one of the following formulas: in which: R2 represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, with or without a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P; Ri and R3, identical or different, designate a linear or branched Ci-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P; A is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide, or a mesylate.

[0106] The groups L, L' and L" represent a group of formula: —ZC“NH-R.“NH“C“Z“ 0 " H OO in which: Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH- ; and R4 represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, with or without a saturated or unsaturated ring, an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P.

[0107] The groups P and P', comprising an amine function, can represent at least one of the following formulas: r«-n-r9 a Rg in which: R5 and R7 have the same meanings as R2 defined previously; R6, Rs and R9 have the same meanings as Ri and R3 defined previously; Rio represents an alkylene group, linear or branched, possibly unsaturated and which may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from N, O, S and P, and A is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as halide like chloride or bromide or mesylate.

[0108] As regards the meaning of Y, a hydrophilic group is understood to be a water-soluble group, whether polymeric or not.

[0109] By way of example, when not polymers are involved, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol can be cited.

[0110] When dealing with a hydrophilic polymer, examples include polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, and in particular poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0111] The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (la) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and various compounds possessing hydrogen-labile functional groups. The hydrogen-labile functional groups may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol groups, which, after reaction with the dii-socyanate groups, give polyurethanes, polyureas, and polythioureas, respectively. The term "polyurethanes" in the present invention encompasses these three types of polymers, namely polyurethanes proper, polyureas, and polythioureas, as well as copolymers thereof.

[0112] A first type of compound used in the preparation of polyurethane of formula (la) is a compound comprising at least one amine functional group. This compound may be multifunctional, but preferably it is difunctional, that is to say, according to a preferred embodiment, this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms attached, for example, to a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine, or thiol functional group. A mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds may also be used in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low.

[0113] As previously stated, this compound may comprise more than one amine functional group. It is then a polymer bearing a repetition of the amine functional group.

[0114] This type of compound can be represented by one of the following formulas: HZ-(P)n-ZH, or HZ-(P')p-ZH, in which Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

[0115] By way of example, we can cite N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

[0116] The second compound used in the preparation of polyurethane of formula (la) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula: O=C=N-R4-N=C=O in which R4 is defined above.

[0117] By way of example, we can cite methylenediphenyl-diisocyanate, methylenecy-clohexanediisocyanate, isophoronediisocyanate, toluenediisocyanate, naphthalene-diisocyanate, butanediisocyanate, hexanediisocyanate.

[0118] A third compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (la).

[0119] This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a labile hydrogen function, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.

[0120] By way of example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. When this compound has a polymer chain, it may be, for example, alpha-hydroxy hydrogenated polybutadiene.

[0121] The hydrophobic group of polyurethane of formula (la) can also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound having at least one tertiary amine motif. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced by the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

[0122] The cationic associative polyurethane may further comprise a hydrophilic sequence. This sequence is provided by a fourth type of compound entering into the Polymer preparation. This compound can be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. A mixture with a low percentage of the multifunctional compound is also possible.

[0123] The hydrogen-labile functions are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the ends of the chains by one of these hydrogen-labile functions.

[0124] By way of example, when not polymers are involved, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol can be cited.

[0125] When dealing with a hydrophilic polymer, examples include polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, and in particular poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0126] The hydrophilic group denoted Y in formula (la) is optional. Indeed, the quaternary or protonated amine motifs may be sufficient to provide the solubility or hydrodispersibility necessary for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.

[0127] Although the presence of a hydrophilic Y group is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes containing such a group are preferred.

[0128] - (B') quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular: - i) quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

[0129] - ii) quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

[0130] - iii) hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib): in which: R and R', identical or different, represent an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably Ci-C20, such as methyl or dodecyl; and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide; and n, x and y, whether identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

[0131] The alkyl radicals borne by the celluloses i) or quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses ii) above preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably designate the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

[0132] Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains include QUATRISOFT LM 200^, marketed by AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL (INCI name Polyquaternium-24) and CRODACEL QM^ (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Coco-dimonium Chloride), CRODACEL QL^ (alkyl in Ci2) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride) and CRODACEL QS^ (alkyl in Cl8) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride) marketed by CRODA.

[0133] We can also mention hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide more preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride Cl,(CH3)3N+- and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl,(CH3)2(C12H25)N+-, This type of polymer is known under the trade names SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL with INCI name Polyquaternium-67.

[0134] More particularly, polymers of formula (Ib) are those whose viscosity is inclusively between 2000 and 3000 cPs. Preferably, the viscosity is inclusively between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, and SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.

[0135] - (C') cationic polyvinyllactams, in particular those comprising: - a) at least one vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type monomer; - b) at least one monomer of the following structures (le) or (Ile): 15+ CH^C(RJ-CO-X-(y)-(CHrCH2-O)-{^^ THERE (THE) Rs CH“C(R..)-CO-X-(Y)—(CH£rCHX))-(CH2^^ — (UC) ^4 in which: X denotes oxygen atony or an NR6 radical, RI and R6 designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, R2 designates a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, R3, R4 and R5 designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (IIIc): ---(Yg),—(CH2-CH(R7)-O) —Rg (|||c) in which: Y, Y1 and Y2 each designate, independently of each other, a linear or branched C2-C16 alkylene radical, R7 designates a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical. R8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical, p, q and r denote, independently of each other, either the value zero or the value 1, m and n denote, independently of each other, an integer from 0 to 100 inclusive, x denotes an integer ranging inclusively from 1 to 100, Z denotes an anionic counterion of organic or mineral acid, such as halide like chloride or bromide or mesylate; provided that: - at least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or R8 designates a linear or branched C9-C30 alkyl radical, - if m or n is not equal to zero, then q is equal to 1, - if m or n are equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0.

[0136] The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and can also be block polymers.

[0137] Preferably the counter-ion Z- of the monomers of formula (le) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ion, tosylate ion.

[0138] Preferably R3, R4 and R5 designate, independently of each other, an atom of hydrogen or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical.

[0139] More preferably, monomer b) is a monomer of formula (le) for which, preferably, m and n are equal to zero.

[0140] The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound with (IVc) structure: CH(R„)=C(Kn)-N— ' \ / .K in which s denotes an integer from 3 to 6; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical and RIO denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, provided that at least one of the radicals R9 and RIO denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0141] Even more preferably, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

[0142] The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic.

[0143] By way of particularly preferred compounds, the following terpolymers may be mentioned, comprising at least: a)-a monomer of formula (IVc), b) - a monomer of formula (le) in which p=l, q=0, R3 and R4 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical and R5 denotes a linear or branched C9-C24 alkyl radical and c)-a monomer of formula (Ile) in which R3 and R4 designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical.

[0144] Even more preferably, terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40 to 95% monomer (a), 0.1 to 55% monomer (c) and 0.25 to 50% monomer (b) will be used. Such polymers are described in particular in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0145] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, the following are used in particular: - the terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamide tosylate, - the terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamide tosylate, - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate terpolymers or lauryldimethylmethacrylamide chloride.

[0146] The vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / chloride terpolymer lauryl dimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium is notably offered by the company ISP under the names Styleze WIO^ or Styleze W20L^ (INCI name Poly quaternium- 55).

[0147] The molecular weight (Mw) of cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20,000,000, more particularly between 200,000 and 2,000,000 and preferably between 400,000 and 800,000.

[0148] - (D') cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomers, and one or more associative vinyl monomers, as described in patent application WO2004 / 024779.

[0149] Among these polymers, we may mention in particular the products of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising: - a di(alkyl C1-C4)amino(alkyl C1-C6) methacrylate, - one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, - a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide motif), - a polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol 30 / 5 allyl ether, - a hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and - ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0150] Such a polymer is for example the compound marketed by the company LUBRIZOL under the name CARBOPOL AQUA CC^ and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer.

[0151] Non-ionic associative polymers are preferably selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0152] (1) Cellulose modified by groups comprising at least one chain fatty, especially alkyl in the C8-C32 range, preferably in the C14-C28 range; preferably among: - Hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular an alkyl chain in the C8-C32 range, preferably in the C14-C28 range, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably in the C8-C22 range, such as cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose marketed in particular under the reference NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (alkyls in the C16 range) sold by the Ashland company, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by the Ashland company, - Hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company AMERCHOL, - and their mixtures.

[0153] (2) Hydroxypropylguars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain especially alkyl in C8-C32, better in C14-C28, such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (alkyl chain in C22) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18 (alkyl chain in CM) and RE205-1 (alkyl chain in C2o) sold by the company RHODIA.

[0154] (3) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic chain monomers fats, particularly alkyl groups in the C8-C32 range, or better yet, C14-C28. Examples include: - the vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer, and in particular the ANTARON V216 or GANEX V216 products sold by the company ISP - the vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer, and in particular the ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 products sold by the company ISP

[0155] (4) Copolymers of methacrylates or alkyl acrylates in C1-C6 and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular alkyl in C8-C32, better in C14-C28, such as for example the methyl acrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208.

[0156] (5) Copolymers of methacrylates or hydrophilic acrylates and monomers hydrophobics comprising at least one fatty chain, especially alkyl in C8-C32, better in C14-C28, such as for example polyethylene-neglycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0157] (6) Polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain both sequences hydrophilic, most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic chains alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.

[0158] (7) Ether aminoplast backbone polymers having at least one chain fats especially alkyl in C8-C32, better in C14-C28, such as the PURE THIX compounds offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE.

[0159] Preferably, polyether polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence. The hydrocarbon chains may be dangling chains or end chains of a hydrophilic sequence. In particular, one or more dangling chains may be provided. Furthermore, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

[0160] Polyurethane polyethers can be multi-sequenced, particularly in triblock form. The hydrophobic sequences can be at each end of the chain (e.g., a triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central sequence) or distributed both at the ends and throughout the chain (e.g., a multi-sequenced copolymer). These same Polymers can also be in graft or star shapes.

[0161] Nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers can be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

[0162] By extension, non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers also include those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.

[0163] As examples of non-ionic, fat-chain polyurethane polyethers usable in the invention, one can also use Rhéolate 205® with a urea functional group sold by RHEOX, or Rhéolates® 208, 204, or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®. The ELFACOS T210® product with a Cl2-14 alkyl chain and the ELFACOS T212® product with a Cl8 alkyl chain from AKZO can also be mentioned. The DW 1206B® product from ROHM & HAAS, with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, offered at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

[0164] Solutions or dispersions of these polymers can also be used, particularly in water or in hydroalcoholic media. For example, RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278, and RHEOLATE® 244, sold by RHEOX, are examples of such polymers. DW 1206F and DW 1206J, offered by ROHM & HAAS, can also be used.

[0165] Polyurethane polyethers usable according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci. 271, 380.389 (1993).

[0166] More particularly, a polyurethane polyether is preferred, which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0167] Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names ACULYN 46® and ACULYN 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0168] When the composition comprises one or more associative polymers, they are preferably chosen from among non-ionic associative polymers, preferably among the polyether polyurethanes.

[0169] Preferably, when present, the associative polymer(s) are present in composition A in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] Preferably, when present, the non-ionic associative polymer(s) are present in composition A in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactants

[0171] Composition A used according to the invention may optionally include one or more cationic surfactants.

[0172] Said cationic surfactants are non-siliconized, that is to say they do not contain a Si-O group.

[0173] They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0174] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants selected from, alone or in mixture, the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0175] - compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II): in which:

[0176] X is an anion in particular selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates;

[0177] the groups Ri to R4, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Ri to R4 designating an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0178] Aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. Aliphatic groups are selected, for example, from the following groups: C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, C2-C6 alkyl(C12-C22)amidoalkyl, C2-C6 alkyl(C12-C22)acetate, and hy- droxyalkyl in Ci-C30.

[0179] Among quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraal-kylammonium salts are preferred, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distea-ryldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium salts such as those marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK.

[0180] In particular, the chloride, bromide or methylsulfate salts of these compounds are preferred.

[0181] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): ~ (III) xCH2CH£~~'N(Rg) GO—Rj; | \ / VV $ Hs H, ; in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms respectively.

[0182] Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a methyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0183] Such a product is marketed for example under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0184] - quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts in particular of formula (IV): r (IV) R _ (CH J—N— Ru 2X R^ in which

[0185] R9 designates an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly hydroxylated and / or possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

[0186] Rio is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (R9a)(R10a)(Riia)N-(CH2)3 group, with R9a, RiOa, Rna, Ru, R12, Rb and R14, identical or different, selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

[0187] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0188] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V): (V) o । in which:

[0189] R15 is selected from the C1-C6 alkyl groups and the hydroxyalkyl or di- groups hydroxyalkyls in Ci-C6;

[0190] Rie is chosen from the R19-C(O)- group; the R20 groups which are CrC22 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom,

[0191] Ri8 is chosen from the R21-C(O)- group; the R22 groups which are Ci-C6 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; the hydrogen atom;

[0192] Rn, Ri9 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

[0193] r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

[0194] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0195] x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

[0196] X is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic;

[0197] provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R[6 denotes R20 and that when z is 0 then R[8 denotes R22.

[0198] The alkyl groups R[5] can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R[5] designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0199] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0200] When Ri6 is a hydrocarbon R20 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0201] When R[8 is a hydrocarbon R22 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0202] Advantageously, Rn, Ri9 and R2B, identical or different, are chosen from Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0203] Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0204] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0205] Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0206] Anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide, or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion with an ester function may be used. Anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0207] In particular, ammonium salts of formula (V) in which Ri5 designates a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; Ri6 is chosen from the R19-C(O)- group, the methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon groups in Ci4-C22, the hydrogen atom; Ri8 is chosen from the group R21-C(O)- and the hydrogen atom; Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0208] Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0209] Examples include compounds of formula (V) such as salts (in particular chloride or methyl sulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.

[0210] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or of alkyldüsopropanolamine possibly oxyalkylated on C10-C30 fatty acids or on mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, chlorohydrin of glycol or glycerol.

[0211] Such compounds are marketed for example under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

[0212] The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

[0213] Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180 patents can also be used.

[0214] The behenoylhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

[0215] Preferably ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0216] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one usable ester function, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methyl-lammonium salts are preferred.

[0217] The term “fatty amines” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylened, or their salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.

[0218] Preferably, the useful fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0219] Fatty amines include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can be selected from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0220] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0221] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0222] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0223] Among the useful fatty amidoamines according to the invention, we can mention the amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR”N(R')2(VI) in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R' ' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0224] Fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular that marketed by INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, the palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0225] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0226] The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; better still from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; even better from those of formula (II) above.

[0227] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) may be selected from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates of tetraalkylammonium, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium salts or of alkyltrimethylammonium in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, distea-ryldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium; the salts of dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0228] Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmi-toylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0229] Preferably, composition A comprises one or more cationic surfactants.

[0230] When present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in composition A according to the invention is preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic polymers

[0231] Composition A used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic polymers, different from the associative polymers described above. This or these cationic polymers are therefore non-associative.

[0232] The term "cationic polymer" means any non-siliconized polymer (not containing silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or ionizable groups into anionic groups.

[0233] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0234] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charge per unit mass of polymer under conditions where the polymer is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the polymer structure is known, that is, the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportions. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0235] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) between approximately 500 and 5.106, preferably between approximately 103 and 3.106.

[0236] The cationic polymers that may be used are preferably non-associative.

[0237] Among the cationic polymers that could be used, the following may be mentioned:

[0238] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylics and containing at least one of the following formula motifs:

[0239] in which:

[0240] - R3, identical or different, designate a hydrogen atony or a CH3 radical;

[0241] - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0242] - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0243] - RI and R2, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

[0244] - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a me- anion thosulfate or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0245] The copolymers of family (1) may further contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, metha-crylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), esters of acrylic or metha-crylic acids, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

[0246] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can mention:

[0247] - copolymers of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,

[0248] - acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl chloride copolymers Ammonium, such as those sold under the name BINA QU AT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,

[0249] - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl- Ammonium, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,

[0250] - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quantified or not, such as products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or products named "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937";

[0251] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinyl- terpolymers pyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0252] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;

[0253] - the vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers qua- ternized, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,

[0254] - polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Cl-C4) salts trialkyl(Cl-C4)ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) can be used in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by CIBA. Alternatively, a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can be used.These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.

[0255] (2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and ga- gums cationic lactomannans.

[0256] Among cationic polysaccharides, particular examples include cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0257] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0258] Examples include polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the AMERCHOL Company.

[0259] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described, in particular, in US patent 4,131,576; examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, crosslinked or not, are particularly noteworthy, the quaternizing agent being, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethylcellulose is especially noteworthy.

[0260] Among the commercial products meeting this definition, we can cite the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0261] As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, one can notably cite the polymer with the INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-10.

[0262] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US patents 3589578 and 4031307; examples include cationic guar gums, especially those containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, particularly trimethylammonium. Examples include guar gums modified with a salt (for example, a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

[0263] Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl groups of the guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the hydroxyl groups of these guar gums are branched by trialkylammonium cationic groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups are particularly noteworthy. Even more preferably, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride can be used.

[0264] Examples include products with the INCI names "HYDRXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE" and "GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE". Such products are marketed, in particular, under the names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Solvay.

[0265] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, cationic derivatives of cassia gum may also be mentioned, in particular those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, the product with the INCI name "CASSIA HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE" may be mentioned.

[0266] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl motifs and alkylene divalent radicals or linear or branched chain hydroxyalkylene, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0267] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycon densification of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a reactive bifunctional compound with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the poly-aminoamide; These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.

[0268] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkoylenes Polyamines are derived from polycarboxylic acids followed by alkoxylation with bifunctional agents. An example is the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalcoyldialoylene triamine polymer, in which the alkyl group has 1 to 4 carbon atoms and is preferably methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Among these derivatives, the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4, or F8" by Sandoz are particularly noteworthy.

[0269] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being made to react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably being between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.

[0270] (7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers having as their main chain constituent motifs corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):

[0271] in which

[0272] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

[0273] - R12 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0274] - RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, designate an alkyl group in C1-C6, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or RIO and RI 1 may jointly designate, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, preferably designate a C1-C4 alkyl group;

[0275] - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

[0276] We can cite more particularly the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-6) for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-7), marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".

[0277] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring motifs of formula: ^3 --N+-A. — — OH) I! iv Rux-

[0278] in which:

[0279] - R13, R14, R15 and R16, whether identical or different, represent radicals ali phatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic compounds comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals in Cl-Cl2,

[0280] or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, form heterocycles possibly comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen

[0281] or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0282] - Al and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

[0283] - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

[0284] it being understood that Al,R13 andR15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;

[0285] Furthermore, if Al designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also designate a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-, with n and p, identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting:

[0286] a) a glycol remnant of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0287] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

[0288] c) a bis-primary diamine remnant of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a radical linear or branched hydrocarbon, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;

[0289] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH- .

[0290] Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.

[0291] One can cite in particular polymers which are made up of recurring motifs conforming to the formula: RR naked -N-(CHA — W) । - | v- ' ■

[0292] in which RI, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0293] A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that in which RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, designated Hexadi-methrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

[0294] (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising formula motifs (V): Ra — N+ - (CH A- NH- CO - (CH A - CO -NH • (CHA - N+ - A — X-। ' ■ ■ ^'9 -■ zo ,

[0295] in which:

[0296] - R18, R19, R20 and R21, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0297] - r and s, whether identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

[0298] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0299] - X- denotes an anion such as a halide,

[0300] - A designates a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents - CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0301] Examples include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.

[0302] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF

[0303] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name of "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

[0304] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:

[0305] (a) one or more motifs corresponding to the following formula (A): —CHj—CH — NHc Z.

[0306] (b) possibly one or more motifs corresponding to the following formula (B): CK—CH " | (B) NH—CH ti O

[0307] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and possibly one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide.

[0308] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers having in their structure 5 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B).

[0309] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in acidic or basic media.

[0310] The average molecular mass by weight of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.

[0311] Polymers comprising motifs of formula (A) and possibly motifs of formula (B) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.

[0312] Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from, alone or in mixture, the polymers of family (1) and cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses such as POLYQUATERNIUM-10; cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; and mixtures thereof.

[0313] Preferably, composition A comprises one or more cationic polymers.

[0314] When present, composition A according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic polysaccharides

[0315] Composition A used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, different from the associative polymers described above. This or these non-ionic polysaccharides are therefore non-associative.

[0316] Non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably selected from celluloses, starches, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, alone or in mixtures. ionic, especially their ethers or esters.

[0317] These polymers can be modified by physical or chemical means. Physical treatment may be cited as an example; and chemical treatment may be cite esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions, insofar as these treatments lead to non-ionic polymers.

[0318] Examples of galactomannans that may be used include non-ionic guar gums which may be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0319] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum in order to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0320] The degree of hydroxyalkylation varies preferably from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0321] Such non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60, JAGUAR HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0322] The starch molecules usable in the present invention may be of botanical origin from cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are, for example, selected from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches. The starches may be modified chemically or physically, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatments.

[0323] Starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch, such as maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0324] Non-ionic polysaccharides can also be cellulosic polymers without a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.

[0325] By "cellulosic" polymer, according to the invention, any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; cellulosic polymers can be unsubstituted celluloses, and / or derivatives of non-ionic celluloses.

[0326] Thus, the cellulosic polymers usable according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulosic polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ester-ethers.

[0327] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers, examples include (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl ethylcelluloses (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl methylcelluloses.

[0328] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or in mixture, celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; and even better from, alone or in mixture, non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; and / or celluloses, substituted or unsubstituted, and cellulose ethers such as (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses.

[0329] Preferably, non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or in mixture, non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl (INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR).

[0330] Preferably, composition A comprises one or more non-ionic polysaccharides.

[0331] When present, composition A according to the invention may comprise the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0332] When present, the composition according to the invention may include the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) selected from celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers, and mixtures thereof, in a total quantity of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty body

[0333] Composition A used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or several non-siliconized fats, which can be chosen from solid fats, liquid fats, and their mixtures.

[0334] The term “non-siliconized fat” means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds.

[0335] Solid fat means a fat having a melting point above 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0336] Advantageously, the solid fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0337] Solid fats can be selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0338] By "fatty acids," we mean a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolized. The solid fatty acids usable in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Said fatty acids are different from the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms previously described.

[0339] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R designating a linear alkyl group, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better 12 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from among saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, having from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0340] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used can be selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0341] - myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);

[0342] - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

[0343] - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol);

[0344] - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

[0345] - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

[0346] - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

[0347] - ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

[0348] - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);

[0349] - myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0350] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl alcohol; preferably, cetostearyl alcohol.

[0351] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0352] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0353] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0354] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0355] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristate stearyl and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0356] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0357] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0358] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0359] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, absolute flower waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0360] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C2 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

[0361] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0362] Also of note are waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among these, isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, particularly that manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0363] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM, can also be used.

[0364] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0365] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;

[0366] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter, shea butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0367] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0368] Ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably conform to the following formula:

[0369] in which:

[0370] - RI designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from acids fatty acids in C14-C30, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in C16-C30;

[0371] - R2 designates a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a group (galactosyl)m or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0372] - R3 designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in position alpha, this group being able to be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in C1-C14;

[0373] it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in C15-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in C16-C30.

[0374] Preferably, ceramides are used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a ga-lactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0375] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear group at C15.

[0376] Compounds can also be used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0377] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; the 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine; 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol; N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine; N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine; and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine; N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine; N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide cetyl acid and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine should be used.

[0378] Examples of liquid fats that may be used include liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0379] The liquid fats have a melting point of 25°C or less, preferably 20°C or less, at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Advantageously, the liquid fats are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0380] It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0381] Liquid hydrocarbons can be C6 to C18, and be linear, branched, possibly cyclic; they are preferably chosen from among the C8-C16 alkanes, in particular C10-C14. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0382] Liquid hydrocarbons can also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; examples include paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0383] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0384] Liquid fatty alcohols may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0385] Liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, may include in particular esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0386] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0387] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldodecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0388] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof shall be used.

[0389] Still within the framework of this variant, esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Cl to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26 can also be used.

[0390] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0391] The composition may also include, as a fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C22 range. It should be noted that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0392] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0393] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the range of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0394] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0395] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0396] In particular, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0397] One can cite as an example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0398] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0399] Preferably, the fats are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0400] Preferably, composition A comprises one or more fats.

[0401] Preferably, composition A according to the invention may comprise the body or bodies fat in a total quantity ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, better from 2 to 18% by weight, preferably from 4 to 15% by weight, better still from 6 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicones

[0402] Composition A according to the invention may optionally comprise one or several silicones, which can in particular be chosen from among amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and their mixtures.

[0403] The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise one or more non-amine silicones, which may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the non-amine silicones are chosen from among non-volatile liquid silicones.

[0404] The non-amine silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in composition A according to the invention; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0405] Silicones are described in detail in particular in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press.

[0406] Volatile silicones may be selected from those having a boiling point between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), in particular from

[0407] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as

[0408] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). On can cite the products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.

[0409] - dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type cyclocopolymers with structure chemical: D _ D . o _ a . CK 1----------------------------1 CK I' 1 / with D: $ with 0': Sî O CH, CgH??

[0410] One example is "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

[0411] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl-pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0412] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decametethyltetrasiloxane.

[0413] Other silicones falling within this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; one can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.

[0414] Among non-volatile silicones, one can cite, alone or in mixture, polydialkyl-siloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), poly-diarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes having in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated groups.

[0415] Organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0416] Among organomodified silicones, organopolysiloxanes comprising:

[0417] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups comprising even currently alkyl groups in C6-C24 such as dimethicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 oils from UNION CARBIDE; or alkyl(Ci2)-methicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;

[0418] - thiol groups, such as products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE;

[0419] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;

[0420] - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with a hy- function droxyalkyl;

[0421] - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in the US patent-A-4957732.

[0422] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as product X-22-3701E from SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255".

[0423] Silicones can also be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, the principal examples of which are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Examples of these polydialkylsiloxanes include the following commercial products:

[0424] - SILBIONE® oils of series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® commercial oils specialized by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0425] - the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;

[0426] - oils in the 200 series from DOW CORNING such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm2 / s;

[0427] - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

[0428] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups (CTFA: dimethiconol) such as the oils of the 48 series of the RHODIA company.

[0429] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also mention the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

[0430] Products more particularly usable according to the invention are mixtures such as:

[0431] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the DOW CORNING company.

[0432] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.105 to 5.10 2m2 / s at 25°C.

[0433] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can mention the products marketed under the following names:

[0434] - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series by RHODIA;

[0435] - the oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series of RHODIA;

[0436] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

[0437] - BAYER's PK series silicones such as product PK20;

[0438] - BAYER's PN and PH series silicones, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products

[0439] - certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0440] The non-amine silicones most particularly preferred according to the invention are the polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone), particularly liquid and non-volatile.

[0441] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more amino silicones.

[0442] Aminated silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium group.

[0443] The amino silicones that can be used according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1*105 to 1 m2 / s. Preferably, the amino silicones are chosen from among non-volatile liquid silicones (25°C, 1 atm).

[0444] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:

[0445] A) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (I):

[0446] in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol;

[0447] B) Amino silicones conforming to formula (II):

[0448] R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a (II)

[0449] in which:

[0450] - G, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl in CrC8, for example methyl or alkoxy in CrC8, for example methoxy, - a, a' identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,

[0451] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0452] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, where n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0453] - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in where q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine grouping, possibly quantized, chosen from the groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A , -N+

[0454]

[0455] H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A , -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A , -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-QN +(R”)3 A, where R”, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a CrC2o alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide. Preferably, amino silicones of formula (II) may be chosen from: (i) "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" silicones conforming to formula (III):

[0456]

[0457] L >Sî "J m ( naked in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better from 50 to 150; n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10. (ii) silicones of the following formula (IV):

[0458]

[0459]

[0460]

[0461]

[0462] in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Ri, R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical. Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more specifically is equal to 0.3:1.

[0463] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol.

[0464] (iii) silicones of the following formula (V): ÇK, p CH, p QL Where R(----Pq —O § § ï O x J " ' UK L Jp | | iv S } xW'ï [ RH;, I (V)

[0465] in which:

[0466] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

[0467] - Rb R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci-C4, one at minus the Ri or R2 radicals designating an alkoxy radical.

[0468] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0469] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0470] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.

[0471] Commercial products containing structural (IV) or (V) silicones may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones with a structure different from the (IV) or (V) formulations. A product containing structural (IV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing structural (V) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing structural (IV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

[0472] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use as an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature, but preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The average number size of the silicone particles in the emulsion will generate particle size ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, particularly for amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used with an average particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (inclusive). Thus, according to the invention, amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by WACKER can be used.

[0473] (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI): LJ m (VI)

[0474] in which:

[0475] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in by specific from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0476] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0477] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol. One silicone that meets this formula is, for example, DOW CORNING's XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION.

[0478] (v) silicones of the following formula (VII):

[0479] in which:

[0480] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in by specific from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0481] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0482] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol. One silicone that meets this formula is, for example, DOW CORNING's DC2-8566 Amino Fluid.

[0483] C) Amino silicones conforming to formula (VIII):

[0484] in which:

[0485] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 atoms of carbon, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl;

[0486] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0487] - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate;

[0488] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;

[0489] and - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

[0490] D) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) (IX)

[0491] in which:

[0492] - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0493] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0494] - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a radical hy monovalent drocarbon having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;

[0495] - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate; and

[0496] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described for example in application EP-A-0530974; in particular, the silicone with INCI name QUATERNIUM 80 can be mentioned.

[0497] Silicones falling within this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names AB IL QU AT 3270, AB IL QU AT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474.

[0498] E) Amino silicones of formula (X): (X)

[0499] in which:

[0500] - Ri, R2, Ri and R4, whether identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0501] - R5 designates a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

[0502] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0503] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0504] - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0505] F) multiblock polyoxyalkylened amine silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block comprising at least one amine group.

[0506] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:

[0507] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or else

[0508] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R' ' )-R' -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which:

[0509] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, plus particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0510] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, plus particularly between 5 and 30;

[0511] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0512] - R” is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0513] - R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denotes a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and

[0514] - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-C i2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0515] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.

[0516] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0517] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g / mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g / mol. Examples include silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

[0518] G) Amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII):

[0519] in which:

[0520] - R, R' and R”, identical or different, designate a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

[0521] - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and

[0522] - m and n are numbers such that the average molecular mass in weight of the The compound value is between 5000 and 500000.

[0523] in which:

[0524] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably from 1 to 100;

[0525] - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, designate a group alkyl, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0526] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0527] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. We can mention in particular the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0528] Preferably, Ri and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and particularly 12 to 20 carbon atoms; examples include dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, and eicosyl groups; and preferably, Ri and R2, whether identical or different, are selected from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0529] Preferably, in silicone of formula (XII), there is:

[0530] - x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;

[0531] - ranging from 1 to 100;

[0532] - A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; Preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0533] - Ri and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen especially from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0534] A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. An example is the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

[0535] H) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at one end of the chain or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): ï \ I | ÇFb K ,U "S î ~ t '4- 3 s—( ) 'py" । {.....( ' $ (XIV) One, V't-h ju ' OH, 'h Ùh (XV)

[0536] In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 1000 and 55000. Examples of formula (XIV) amino silicones include the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin Etsu.

[0537] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 3000.

[0538] As an example of formula (XV) amine silicones, we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0539] In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 50000.

[0540] Examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI) include aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0541] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to the formula (XVIII) below: y. OH (XVI II) II I / .............\ ] HO™"' '" - OH ]

[0542] in which:

[0543] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80;

[0544] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better between 1 and 10, and even better, between 1 and 5;

[0545] - R'”, identical or different, preferably identical, are alkyl radicals linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals optionally being substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH;

[0546] - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, specifically 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0547] - R' ' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, specifically from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0548] Preferably, the identical or different R's are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular, dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl radicals may be mentioned; preferably the identical or different Rs are chosen from among the saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular in C13, C14, Cl5, alone or in mixture, and preferably represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15.

[0549] Preferably, the R's” are identical.

[0550] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, preferably branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical.

[0551] Preferably, R'' is a linear alkylene divalent radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.

[0552] Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0553] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0554] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0555] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0556] - R' is a divalent alkylene radical having 2 to 5 carbon atoms,

[0557] - R” is a linear alkylene divalent radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0558] Even better, the composition may include one or more formula silicones (XVIII) in which:

[0559] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0560] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0561] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0562] - R' is a radical -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-, and

[0563] - R' ' is a radical -(CH2)2-.

[0564] A particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (INCI name). One example is the silicone marketed by DOW under the name "DOWSIL 8500 Conditioning agent".

[0565] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, the amino silicones of formula (I), (III), (VI), (VII), (XI) and / or (XII) defined above.

[0566] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicones amine-based, preferably liquid and non-volatile, especially selected from among the amine-based silicones of formula (I), (III), (VI), (VII), (XI) and / or (XII) defined above, even better selected from among the amine-based silicones of formula (I), (III) and / or (XI) as defined above.

[0567] Preferably, composition A according to the invention comprises, as silicone, only one or more amino silicones; in other words, according to this preference, the composition does not comprise (0%) non-amino silicone.

[0568] Advantageously, composition A according to the present invention may comprise, when present, the silicone(s), in particular the amino silicone(s), in a total content preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.3 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional compounds

[0569] The composition A used according to the invention advantageously comprises water, in particular at a concentration preferably from 45 to 95% by weight, for example from 50 to 90% by weight, in particular from 55 to 85% by weight, better from 60 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0570] The pH of the composition may be between 2.5 and 8, preferably between 3 and 6, or even between 3.5 and 5.5.

[0571] The composition A used according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more organic solvents, liquid at 25°C, 1 atm, preferably hydrophilic (soluble or miscible with water), which may be selected from C1-C6 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C2-C8 polyols, and C3-C7 polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent is selected from C2-C4 mono-, di-, or tri-diols. It may advantageously be selected from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, propane-1,2-diol (propylene glycol), and mixtures thereof.

[0572] The composition A used according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients, in particular selected from among thickeners, gelling agents (both different from the polymers described above); sunscreens; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidizing bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct colorants; straightening agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; micas, pearlescent pigments, glitter; plasticizing or coalescing agents; pigments; fillers; perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents; silanes, silicones, and non-ionic surfactants. Those skilled in the art shall take care to select the ingredients used in the composition, as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0573] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hair composition A used in the process according to the invention may comprise:

[0574] - one or more amino acid-type compounds corresponding to formula (I) such that defined above, in which p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by an -S- heteroatom and / or possibly substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; better R represents a hydrogen atom;

[0575] preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0576] - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 4 to 6 atoms of carbon, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, and / or their salts, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 1.5 to 5% by weight,

[0577] - optionally one or more silicones, preferably chosen from the amine silicones, and mixtures thereof; preferably present in a total content of 0.05 to 5% by weight, better 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight, and more preferably 0.3 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0578] - optionally one or more cationic surfactants preferably chosen among those of formula (II), formula (V) and / or formula (VI) above, better among those of formula (II) and / or formula (VI) above;

[0579] preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0580] - optionally one or more cationic polymers, preferably selected from polymers of family (1) and / or cationic polysaccharides, in particular selected from celluloses and / or cationic galactomannan gums; preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0581] - optionally one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, in particular selected among, alone or in mixture, non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxylakyl groups; preferably present in a total quantity of 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0582] - optionally one or more fatty substances, preferably chosen from oils triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; preferably present in a total quantity of 1 to 20% by weight, better 2 to 18% by weight, preferably 4 to 15% by weight, better still 6 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0583] B / Colouring or bleaching composition applied in step (ii)

[0584] The process according to the invention includes a step (ii) called coloring or bleaching, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of a hair coloring or bleaching composition.

[0585] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition applied to the keratin fibers during step (ii) of the process is a coloring composition, which may include one or more coloring agents, in particular chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0586] The term "oxidation dye" means an oxidation dye precursor selected from oxidation bases and couplers. Oxidation bases and couplers are slightly or colorless compounds which, through a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a colored species.

[0587] By "direct dye" is meant a natural and / or synthetic dye, including in the form of extract(s), distinct from oxidation dyes. These are colored compounds that diffuse superficially onto the fiber. They can be ionic or non-ionic, i.e., anionic, cationic, neutral, or non-ionic.

[0588] Oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases, possibly combined with one or more coupling agents (also called couplers).

[0589] The colouring composition may optionally include one or more oxidation bases advantageously chosen from those traditionally used in the colouring of keratin fibres.

[0590] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts; in particular addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, brom-hydrates, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

[0591] The colouring composition may optionally include one or more coupling agents advantageously chosen from those traditionally used in the staining of keratin fibres.

[0592] Among these coupling agents, we can particularly mention meta- phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, as well as the corresponding addition salts, including addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

[0593] The colouring composition may optionally include one or more direct dyes. Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines, and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes; and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures. The direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes.

[0594] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition applied to the keratin fibers during step (ii) of the process is a bleaching composition which may in particular include one or more chemical oxidizing agents.

[0595] The colouring or bleaching composition applied to the keratin fibres may include at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

[0596] By "chemical oxidizing agent" is meant an oxidizing agent other than oxygen from the air.

[0597] Preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, peracids and their precursors, and mixtures thereof.

[0598] Better, the chemical oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, peroxygenated salts and mixtures thereof.

[0599] Even better, the chemical oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, perborates, alkali or alkaline earth metal percarbonates or ammonium percarbonates and mixtures thereof.

[0600] A particularly preferred chemical oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

[0601] Examples of peroxygenated salts include sodium, potassium, ammonium persulfates and mixtures thereof.

[0602] When the composition is a bleaching composition, it may preferably comprise one or more peroxygenated salts, preferably one or more persulfates, better one or more persulfates selected from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0603] Even more preferably, when the composition is a bleaching composition, it may preferably comprise one or more peroxygenated salts, preferably one or more persulfates, better one or more persulfates chosen from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate and mixtures thereof, and hydrogen peroxide.

[0604] The colouring or bleaching composition may comprise a total content of chemical oxidizing agents ranging from 0.5 to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.6 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 1 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the colouring or bleaching composition.

[0605] The coloring or bleaching composition may optionally include one or more alkali agents. Preferably, the coloring or bleaching composition includes one or more alkali agents, organic or mineral.

[0606] The mineral alkali agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates or bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium or potassium silicates or metasilicates or mixtures thereof.

[0607] The organic alkali metal(s) are preferably chosen from among organic amines whose pKb at 25°C is less than 12, and preferably less than 10, even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity functional group. Furthermore, the organic amines do not include a fatty, alkyl, or alkenyl chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

[0608] The organic alkali agent(s) are, for example, chosen from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and compounds of the following formula (III): ?NWN^ ' R* n (III) in which: - W is a divalent alkylene group in Ci-C6 possibly substituted by a hydroxyl group or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group and / or possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or NRU; - Rx, R', Rz, R1 and Ru, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from (Ci-C6)alkyl, hydroxyalkyl in Ci-C6 or aminoalkyl in Ci-C6

[0609] Examples of amines of formula (III) include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, spermidine.

[0610] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, in C1 to C8 bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0611] Organic amines selected from among alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1 to C4, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0612] Among compounds of this type, one may mention monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane.

[0613] More specifically, the usable amino acids are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from among carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic, or phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.

[0614] As amino acids that can be used in the colouring or decolouring composition, the following may be mentioned in particular: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, omithine, citrulline, asparagine, camitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

[0615] Advantageously, amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function possibly included in a ring or in a ureido function.

[0616] Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those conforming to the following formula (IV), as well as their salts: R-GH2-CH(NH2)-C(O)-OH (IV) in which R represents a group chosen from imidazolyl, preferably imidazolyl-4-yl; aminopropyl; aminoethyl; -(CH2)2N(H)-C(O)-NH2; and -(CH2)2 -N(H)-C(NH)-NH2.

[0617] Among the compounds of formula (IV), we can mention histidine, lysine, arginine, omithine, citrulline.

[0618] The organic amine can also be chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned among amino acids, pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole can be cited.

[0619] The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Examples of amino acid dipeptides usable in the present invention include camosine, anserine, and balenine.

[0620] The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine function. In particular, in addition to arginine already mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)-ethane-l-sulfonic acid.

[0621] As examples of hybrid compounds, we can mention the salts of the amines cited above with acids such as carbonic acid, hydrochloric acid.

[0622] In particular, guanidine carbonate or mono-ethanolamine hydrochloride may be used.

[0623] Preferably, the alkali agent(s) are selected from ammonia, alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, and mixtures thereof. Better still, the alkali agent in the colorant composition is selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof. Better still, the alkali agent in the bleaching composition is selected from alkali metal silicates or metasilicates, in particular sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.

[0624] The total content of alkali agents included in the colouring or bleaching composition may range from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the colouring or bleaching composition.

[0625] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the bleaching composition may be obtained from a mixture of:

[0626] a) a first composition B1 comprising one or more peroxygenated salts and one or more alkali agents, preferably selected from silicates,

[0627] b) a second composition B2 comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s) other than peroxygenated salts.

[0628] Preferably, the peroxygenated salts are chosen from among persulfates; perborates; peracids and / or their salts; alkali metal, alkali-earth metal, or ammonium percarbonates; magnesium peroxide; and mixtures thereof.

[0629] Preferably, the first composition B1 comprises at least one persulfate.

[0630] Persulfates, also called peroxysulfates, correspond, in the sense of the invention, to the anions SO52 (peroxomonosulfate anion) or S2O82 (peroxodisulfate anion) or to compounds comprising at least one of these anions. Preferably, the persulfates according to the invention are chosen from among the peroxodisulfates.

[0631] Preferably, the first composition B1 comprises at least one peroxygenated salt selected from the persulfates; preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, persulfate of barium, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably among sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0632] Preferably, the total content of peroxygenated salt(s) present in the first composition B1 ranges from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 10 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 65% by weight, better from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition Bl.

[0633] By "silicate" we mean a salt of silicic acid.

[0634] The silicate(s) are preferably water-soluble.

[0635] By "water-soluble silicate" is meant a silicate which has a solubility in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) greater than 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than 1% by weight.

[0636] Preferably, the silicate(s) are chosen from alkali metal silicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, aluminium silicates, trimethylammonium silicates and mixtures thereof.

[0637] Preferably, the silicate or silicates are chosen from sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminium silicates, trimethylammonium silicates and mixtures thereof.

[0638] The silicate(s) may be selected from metasilicates, preferably from sodium metasilicates, potassium metasilicates, calcium metasilicates, aluminum metasilicates, trimethylammonium metasilicates, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the silicate(s) are selected from sodium silicates. Preferably, the silicate(s) are selected from compounds having the INCI name Sodium Silicate and / or Sodium Metasilicate.

[0639] The silicate(s) are present in the first composition BL preferably in a total content of 5 to 50% by weight, more preferably 10 to 40% by weight, better 15 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition BL

[0640] The first composition B1 may comprise one or more surfactants, in particular selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof; preferably the first composition B1 comprises one or more anionic surfactants.

[0641] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from among the following groups: CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO32, H2PO2, HPO2, PO22, POH and PO2.

[0642] Examples of anionic surfactants usable in the first composition A include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, al-kylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(Cl-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acylactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salted forms of all these compounds;The alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally consist of 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl group generally designates a phenyl group.

[0643] Among anionic surfactants, we can also mention fatty acid salts, especially C8-C24, preferably C12-C20, different from the (poly)carboxylic acids previously described.

[0644] These compounds can be oxyethylated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0645] C6-C24 alkyl monoester salts and polyglycoside-polycarbyl acids can be selected from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycosides tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates.

[0646] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

[0647] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0648] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0649] Any anionic surfactants present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.

[0650] With regard to mild anionic surfactants, particular examples include the following compounds and their salts, as well as mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxy- alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids alkylated; polyoxyalkylated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D ga-lactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters.

[0651] In particular, polyoxyalkylened alkyl ether carboxylic acids can be used, such as lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 OE) marketed for example under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

[0652] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, preferred use are sulfated surfactants such as alkylsulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, and acylglutamates, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, more preferably alkylsulfates and C12-C20 fatty acid salts.

[0653] When the first composition B1 comprises one or more surfactant(s), the total surfactant content(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition Bl.

[0654] When the first composition B1 comprises one or more anionic surfactant(s), the total content of anionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B1.

[0655] The first composition B1 may further comprise one or more fats.

[0656] For the purposes of this invention, "fatty substance" means an organic compound Insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), having a solubility in water of less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.1%. Fats generally have a hydrocarbon chain in their structure comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. Furthermore, fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0657] The fats are also non-(poly)oxyalkylated and non-(poly)glycerolated. In other words, the fats do not contain in their structure a (poly)ethylene oxide or (poly)glycerol or (poly)propylene glycol unit.

[0658] The fat or fats may be chosen from solid fats and / or liquid fats (also called "oil"), and mixtures thereof.

[0659] By "oil" is meant a "fatty substance" which is liquid, that is to say, which is capable of flowing under the action of its own weight at ambient temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Preferably, the viscosity at a temperature of 25 °C and a shear rate of ls⁻¹ of the oil is between 10-3 Pa.s and 2 Pa.s. It can be measured with a Thermo Haake RS600 rheometer with planar cone geometry or an equivalent device.

[0660] For the purposes of this invention, "solid fat" means a non-liquid fat at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, i.e., 1.013.105 Pa), in particular a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a shear rate of 1 s-1 under the conditions mentioned above.

[0661] Preferably, the fat or fats are chosen from among liquid fats.

[0662] Advantageously, liquid fats are selected from:

[0663] - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have a branched carbon chain and / or unsaturated having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as cetanol, octyl dodecanol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

[0664] - C6-C16 hydrocarbons;

[0665] - hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms;

[0666] - silicones and

[0667] their mixtures.

[0668] Preferably, the fat or fats are chosen from hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms.

[0669] Preferably, the first composition B1 comprises one or more fats, preferably chosen from liquid fats, better from hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms.

[0670] Advantageously, the total fat content, when present, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition Bl.

[0671] Advantageously, the total content of liquid fats, when present, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition Bl.

[0672] The first composition B1 may optionally include one or more alkali agents other than the silicates previously described. These may include, in particular, carbonates, alkali metal hydrogen carbonates, alkaline earth metals, or ammonium carbonates.

[0673] Preferably, the first composition Bl is anhydrous. By anhydrous composition is meant a composition that contains little or no water, in particular less than 0.5% water, better less than 0.1% water, even better less than 0.05%, or even less than 0.01% water, relative to the total weight of the first composition Bl. In particular, the first composition Bl does not include any water added during its preparation; any water present may be supplied by the materials first ones used during its preparation.

[0674] Preferably, the first composition B1 is a powder composition.

[0675] According to the present invention, the second composition B2 of the bleaching composition comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents other than per-oxygenated salts.

[0676] Preferably, the second composition B2 comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents selected from hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide generating systems other than peroxygenated salts and mixtures thereof.

[0677] Hydrogen peroxide generating systems other than peroxygenated salts may be selected from urea peroxide, polymeric complexes capable of releasing hydrogen peroxide, oxidases and mixtures thereof.

[0678] As an example of polymeric complexes capable of releasing hydrogen peroxide, one can cite polyvinylpyrrolidone / H2O2 in particular, which is in powder form, and the other polymeric complexes described in US patents 5,008,093, US 3,376,110 and US 5,183,901.

[0679] Oxidases can produce hydrogen peroxide in the presence of a suitable substrate, such as glucose in the case of glucose oxidase or uric acid with uricase.

[0680] According to a preferred embodiment, the second composition B2 comprises hydrogen peroxide as a chemical oxidizing agent.

[0681] The chemical oxidizing agent(s) other than peroxygenated salts are present in the second composition B2 preferably in a total content of 0.1 to 50% by weight, and preferably of 0.5 to 20% by weight, better of 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition B2.

[0682] The second composition B2 is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it may comprise at least 10% by weight of water, preferably at least 30% by weight of water, and even more advantageously at least 50% by weight of water. Preferably, the second composition B2 comprises water in a content ranging from 10 to 95% by weight, preferably from 30 to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition B2.

[0683] The second composition B2 preferably comprises one or more fats as defined above, preferably selected from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0684] Preferably, the second composition B2 may also include surfactants, preferably selected from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, these compounds being as defined above.

[0685] The second composition B2 may also include one or more acidifying agents, including mineral acids and organic acids, such as such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.

[0686] The pH of the second composition B2, when aqueous, is preferably less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5, preferably between 1.5 and 4.5. This pH can be adjusted to the desired value by the use of one or more acidifying agents, which can in particular be chosen from those described above.

[0687] The second composition B2 may optionally include one or more additives, among which may be mentioned anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric, cationic polymers or mixtures thereof, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, sequestering agents, perfumes, preservatives.

[0688] The process according to the invention can therefore include, before the application step (ii) of a hair composition B, a mixing step of a first composition B1 as described above with a second composition B2 as described above, so as to obtain said composition B.

[0689] This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before the application of composition B likely to be derived from the mixture, to the hair.

[0690] Preferably, the first composition B1 and the second composition B2 are mixed in a weight ratio B1 / B2 of 0.1 to 2, preferably 0.3 to 1.5, better 0.5 to 1.

[0691] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting. All quantities are given, unless otherwise indicated, as a mass percentage of active material (g% MA) relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1

[0692] The following Al compositions according to the invention and comparative A2 were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below (g% MA):

[0693] [Tables 1] Composition Al (invention) A2 (comparative) Citric acid 2.0 - GLYCINE 1 - BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 3 3 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR 0.15 0.15 AMINOPROPYL DIMETHICONE 0.4 0.4 BIS(C13-15 ALKOXY) PG-AMODIMETHICONE 0.3 0.3 PEG-150 / DECYL ALCOHOL / SMDI COPOLYMER 0.15 0.15 POLYQUATERNIUM-37 0.1 0.1 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 0.5 0.5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 7 7 CETYL ESTERS 1.5 1.5 ISODODECANE 0.4 0.4 ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 0.7 0.7 GLYCERIN 1 1 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 0.2 0.2 STEARETH-100 0.25 0.25 Preservatives Qs Qs Water Qsp 100% Qsp 100%

[0694] Compositions Al and A2 are in the form of a cream and can be used after a bleaching step, as a rinse, after a possible shampooing step.

[0695] It is observed that composition Al improves hair detangling, with added care, shine and strength, compared with composition A2.

[0696] Composition Al also provides hair strengthening properties, and allows the amount of calcium contained in the hair fiber to decrease application after application, compared with composition A2.

[0697] A / The reinforcement is measured using the DSC technique.

[0698] (i) preparation of the wicks

[0699] The measurements are carried out on strands previously bleached manually using a composition based on persulfates, then treated 1 / 5 / 10 times according to the following protocol: the strand is washed with a neutral shampoo comprising an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant, then rinsed, 2g of the composition to be tested is applied per strand of hair of 5.7g, it is left on for 5 minutes then rinsed again. (ii) measurement method

[0700] Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) is known to those skilled in the art as a method for quantifying protein strengthening in the cortex of keratin fibers (Kinetics of the changes imparted to the main structural components of human hair by thermal treatment, FJ Wortmann and H. Deutz, J. Appl. Polym Sci., 48, 137 (1993)). The principle of the test is to measure the protein denaturation temperature. It is widely recognized that the higher the protein denaturation temperature, the better the integrity of the cortex proteins, which reflects a reduction in fiber breakage.

[0701] The denaturation temperature is directly related to the binding density of keratin proteins present in the cortex. Thus, the lower the denaturation temperature, the lower the binding density of the proteins to each other, the more disulfide bonds break, and the cortex is damaged. A difference of 2°C is recognized by those skilled in the art as a significant change.

[0702] The apparatus used to perform the measurements is a TA Instruments DSC Q20 reference apparatus. This apparatus measures the energy flow during the heating of the sample. The temperature at which the energy flow is greatest represents the denaturation temperature. (iii) results

[0703] The results of the measurements of the denaturation temperature (Td) of each of the strands treated according to the protocol described above are summarized in the following table and correspond to the average of 3 measurements carried out per strand.

[0704] [Tables2] Td (°C) Standard deviation Natural strand (before bleaching treatment) 153.31 1.36 Untreated bleached strand 138.73 0.75 Bleached strand treated once with formula Al 142.74 0.36 Bleached strand treated 5 times with formula Al 155.80 0.17 Bleached strand treated 10 times with formula Al 162.55 0.34 Bleached strand treated once with formula A2 139.69 0.44 Bleached strand treated 5 times with formula A2 142.12 0.41 Bleached strand treated 10 times with formula A2 146.42 0.19

[0705] It is observed that the process according to the invention increases the binding density of keratin proteins present in the cortex of treated hair, thus making it possible to repair damaged hair.

[0706] B / Analysis of Calcium by X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy.

[0707] The measurements are carried out on strands previously bleached and then treated ten times according to the following protocol: the strand is washed with a neutral shampoo, then rinsed, 2g of composition Al (or A2) is applied per strand of hair of 5.7g, it is left on for 5 minutes and then rinsed.

[0708] The measurements are carried out using a Bruker Tiger S8 X-ray fluorescence spectrometer, on a 30 mg sample of hair thus treated, ground and compressed.

[0709] The following results are obtained:

[0710] [Tables3] Calcium concentration (ppm) Untreated bleached strand 16000 Bleached strand treated 10 times with formula Al 6700 Bleached strand treated 10 times with formula A2 13800 Example 2

[0711] Composition B according to the following invention was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below (g% MA):

[0712] [Tables4] Composition B Citric acid 3 GLYCINE 5 GLYCERIN 15 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 5 CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 0.5 QUATERNIUM-80 0.4 HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN 1 PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 0.8 POLYSORBATE 20 and POLYSORBATE 80 1.5 Preservatives Qs Water Qsp 100%

[0713] Composition B is in the form of a lotion and can be applied to the hair after a bleaching treatment.

[0714] It is observed that this composition can be used for detangling hair, providing care, shine and strength (a little less suppleness than classic body care treatments, and a mass effect).

[0715] The composition also has strengthening properties and allows the amount of calcium contained in the hair fiber to decrease, application after application.

[0716] Similar to example 1, the denaturation temperature of hair strands previously manually bleached using a persulfate-based composition and then treated five times according to the following protocol is measured.

[0717] Invention protocol: the strand is washed with a neutral shampoo, then rinsed, 2g of composition B is applied per strand of hair of 5.7g, then without rinsing, 0.4g / g of hair of a classic mask is applied, left on for 5 minutes then rinsed

[0718] Comparative protocol: the strand is washed with a neutral shampoo, then rinsed, 2g of a classic mask is applied, left on for 5 minutes then rinsed.

[0719] The following results are obtained:

[0720] [Tables5] Td (°C) Standard deviation Natural strand (before bleaching treatment) 153.31 1.36 Untreated bleached strand 138.73 0.75 Bleached strand treated 5 times with invention protocol 159.7 1.40 Bleached strand treated 5 times with comparative protocol 140.8 0.32 Example 3

[0721] The compositions Cl (lotion) and C2 (mask) are prepared according to the following invention (% MA):

[0722] [Tableauxô] Glycine Cl 5 Citric acid 3 Glycerin 15 Cationic guar 0.2 Amino silicone 0.4 Propylene glycol 5.4 Non-ionic surfactants 1.5 Cetrimonium chloride 1 Hydroxypropyl guar 0.2 Preservatives qs Water qsp 100

[0723] [Tables?] C2 GLYCINE 1 Citric acid 2 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 0.5 STEARETH-100 0.25 CETYL ESTERS 1.5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 7 PEG-150 / DECYL ALCOHOL / SMDI COPOLYMER 0.14 BIS(C13-15 ALKOXY) PG-AMODIMETHICONE 0.3 GLYCERIN 1 POLYQUATERNIUM-37 0.08 AMINOPROPYL DIMETHICONE 0.44 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 3 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR 0.15 Preservatives Qs Water Qs 100 Protocol according to the invention (PI)

[0724] The following routine is applied to 1g and 27cm bleached, previously washed strands of Chinese hair:

[0725] - application of a shampoo at a rate of 0.4g of composition per gram of hair; after a 1-minute pause, the hair is rinsed and towel-dried, then

[0726] - application of composition Cl (lotion) at a rate of 0.4g of composition per gram of hair; after a 5-minute processing time, the hair is rinsed and towel-dried; then

[0727] - application of composition C2 (mask) at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per gram of hair; after a 5-minute pause, the hair is rinsed and squeezed dry, then air-dried.

[0728] This routine is repeated 10 times.

[0729] The strands were then bleached with L'Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio 9 (powder + developer, 1+1.5 ratio) at a rate of 10 g of product per gram of hair. The product was left on for 50 minutes at 33°C, the hair was rinsed with water, and allowed to air dry. Comparative protocol (P2)

[0730] No routine prior to the bleaching step.

[0731] The highlights are bleached with L'Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio 9 (powder + developer, 1+1.5 ratio) at a rate of 10 g of product per gram of hair. The product is left on for 50 minutes at 33°C, the hair is rinsed with water, and allowed to air dry.

[0732] Colorimetric measurements are carried out on the strands treated according to the process according to the invention (PI) or according to the comparative process (P2).

[0733] ​​Colorimetric measurements were performed with a Datacolor SF600X spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system before processing (LT0*) and then after processing with the PI or P2 protocol (LD*). L* represents lightness: the higher the L* value, the lighter the resulting color.

[0734] The lightening performance AL = LD* - LT0* is then determined.

[0735] The following results are obtained (average over 3 strands)

[0736] [Tables8] Lto* T * AL PI (invention) 54.21 70.02 15.81 P2 (comparative) 55.41 68.15 12.74

[0737] The PI protocol according to the invention leads to a higher AL value, therefore to better clearing than with the P2 protocol.

Claims

Claims

1. Process for coloring or bleaching keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising: - a step (i) of applying to said fibers a cosmetic composition A comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, and - a step (ii) of applying a coloring or bleaching hair composition B, step (i) possibly being before or after step (ii).

2. Method according to claim 1, in which step (i) and step (ii) are separated by a time ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour, in particular ranging from 2 to 30 minutes, better still ranging from 5 to 15 minutes.

3. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amino acid type compounds present in composition A are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc: COOH H — C — N(H)p R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably 5 members, this cycle possibly being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl;- when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (CrC i2)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or a C5-C7 aryl group, in particular phenyl, itself optionally substituted by one or more OH; preferably in which p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom -S- and / or optionally substituted by; one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; better p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

4. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc, and their mixtures; preferentially chosen from glycine, its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc, and their mixtures.

5. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of amino acid compound(s) in composition A is at least 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which composition A comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups; and / or their salts, in particular of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals or zinc; preferably chosen from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals; very particularly citric acid and / or tartaric acid as well as their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate.

7. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, in composition A, is at least 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants, in particular in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferentially from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition A comprises one or more cationic polymers, of preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; as well as mixtures thereof; in particular in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, in particular chosen from, alone or as a mixture, celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers or esters; better still from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl and / or celluloses, substituted or not and cellulose ethers such as (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses; preferentially, chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition A comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substances, preferably chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; in particular in a total amount ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, better still from 2 to 18% by weight, preferentially from 4 to 15% by weight, better still from 6 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which composition A comprises one or more silicones, preferably chosen from amino silicones; in particular in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the com- position applied in step (ii) is a coloring composition, which comprises one or more coloring agents notably chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and their mixtures.

14. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition applied in step (ii) is a bleaching composition which may comprise one or more chemical oxidizing agents, in particular chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, peracids and their precursors, and mixtures thereof.

15. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition applied in step (ii) comprises one or more organic or mineral alkaline agents; in particular chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates or bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium or potassium silicates or metasilicates or mixtures thereof; alkanolamines, oxyethyleneated and / or oxypropyleneated ethylenediamines, amino acids and compounds of the following formula (III): zRz X (no in which: - W is a divalent C1-C6 alkylene group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a (C1-C6)alkyl group and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen or NRU; - Rx, R', Rz R1 and Ru, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from (Ci-C6)alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 aminoalkyl.