HAIR REVITALIZATION PROCESS

A hair revitalization process using a composition with C2-C8 monoalcohols, non-ionic surfactants, and carboxylic acids addresses the issue of hair fibers sticking, achieving effective and long-lasting root lift and cleanliness.

FR3154608B3Active Publication Date: 2025-12-19LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2023013661
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-10-31
Filing Date
2023-12-06
Publication Date
2025-12-19
Estimated Expiration
2033-12-06

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair styling products using styling polymers like vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer and/or carbomer often result in a thick layer that causes hair fibers to stick together and become dirty, failing to provide effective root lifting.

Method used

A hair revitalization process using a composition comprising a water-soluble penetration activator, non-ionic surfactant, and carboxylic acid or its salt, which includes C2-C8 monoalcohols, non-ionic surfactants, and carboxylic acids of formula (I), to achieve good detachment from the hair root.

Benefits of technology

The process effectively provides durable root lift and detachment, maintaining hair volume and cleanliness by preventing hair fibers from sticking together.

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Abstract

HAIR REVITALIZATION PROCESS The present invention relates to a hair revitalization process, comprising the application to the hair of a composition comprising: a) at least one water-soluble penetration activator selected from C2-C8 monoalcohols; b) at least one non-ionic surfactant; and c) at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof: R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which: - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH,-CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and - R2 represents a CH2COOH group when R1 represents a hydrogen atom, or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when R1 is not a hydrogen atom; and - R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic alkyl group comprising 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Figure for the abbreviation: none
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Description

Title of the invention: HAIR REVITALIZATION PROCESS technical field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the field of cosmetics. In particular, the present invention relates to a hair revitalization process. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Consumers want an airy look, namely significant volume at the crown and naturally wavy hair. To achieve significant volume at the crown, the key is generally long-lasting root lift.

[0003] Currently, there are some solutions in the art using styling polymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer and / or carbomer to allow root lifting.

[0004] Some products on the market result in a thick layer, which makes the hair fibers stick together and easy to get dirty.

[0005] Thus, it is desirable to have an effective solution for treating hair that can offer good benefits of hair root lifting when applied to the scalp and hair roots. Summary of the invention

[0006] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a hair revitalization process, which can offer good detachment from the hair root.

[0007] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a hair revitalization process, comprising the application to the hair of a composition comprising:

[0008] a) at least one water-soluble penetration activator selected from C2-C8 monoalcohols;

[0009] b) at least one non-ionic surfactant;

[0010] c) at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof:

[0011] RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I)

[0012] in which:

[0013] - Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH,-CH 2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2 -COOH; And

[0014] - R2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom, or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; And

[0015] - R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 atoms of carbon or a cyclic alkyl group comprising 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0016] The inventors have discovered that the process according to the present invention can effectively provide good detachment from the hair root.

[0017] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0018] According to the first aspect, the composition used in the process of the present invention comprises:

[0019] a) at least one water-soluble penetration activator selected from C2-C8 monoalcohols;

[0020] b) at least one non-ionic surfactant;

[0021] c) at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) as defined above and / or a salt thereof. Penetration activators

[0022] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one water-soluble penetration activator selected from C2-C8 monoalcohols.

[0023] Preferably, the penetration activator is chosen from C2-C6 monoalcohols.

[0024] The penetration activator suitable for use in the composition according to the The present invention includes, but is not limited to, ethanol, n-propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, n-butanol, tert-butanol and pentyl alcohol.

[0025] More preferably, the penetration activator is ethanol.

[0026] Advantageously, the penetration activator is present in the composition used in the process of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 10% by weight to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic surfactants

[0027] The composition used in the process of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0028] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include, but are not limited to:

[0029] (1) alkyl phenol polyethylene oxide condensates, for example, the condensation products of alkyl phenols having an alkyl group containing from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms in a straight-chain or branched-chain configuration, with ethylene oxide, said ethylene oxide being present in quantities equal to approximately 10 to approximately 60 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alkyl phenol;

[0030] (2) those derived from the condensation of ethylene oxide with the resulting product of the reaction of propylene oxide and ethylenediamine products;

[0031] (3) the condensation products of aliphatic alcohols having from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, in straight-chain or branched-chain configurations, with ethylene oxide, for example, an ethylene oxide condensate of coconut alcohol having about 10 to about 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of coconut alcohol, the coconut alcohol fraction having about 10 to about 14 carbon atoms;

[0032] (4) long-chain tertiary amine oxides of formula [R'R2R3N^O] where R1 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxy alkyl radical of about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, 0 to about 10 fractions of ethylene oxide, and 0 to about 1 fraction of glyceryl, and R2 and R3 each independently contain about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms and 0 to about 1 hydroxy group, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl radicals;

[0033] (5) long-chain tertiary phosphine oxides of formula [RR'R"P^O] where R contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical ranging from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms in chain length, from 0 to about 10 fractions of ethylene oxide and from 0 to 1 fraction of glyceryl and R' and R" are each independently alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms;

[0034] (6) long-chain dialkyl sulfoxides containing an alkyl or hy- radical short-chain droxyalkyl of 1 to about 3 carbon atoms (usually methyl) and a long hydrophobic chain which include alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxyalkyl or ketoalkyl radicals containing about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms, 0 to about 10 fractions of ethylene oxide and 0 to 1 fraction of glyceryl;

[0035] (7) alkyl polysaccharide (APS) surfactants (for example, alkyl polyglycosides), including APS surfactants having a hydrophobic group with approximately 6 to approximately 30 carbon atoms and a polysaccharide (e.g., polyglycoside) as the hydrophilic group; optionally, there may be a polyalkylene oxide group linking the hydrophobic and hydrophilic fractions; and the alkyl group (i.e., the hydrophobic fraction) may be saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and unsubstituted or substituted (e.g., with hydroxyl or cyclic rings); a preferred material is alkyl polyglucoside, which is commercially available from Henkel, ICI Americas, and Seppic; and

[0036] (8) polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers such as those of formula RO(CH2CH2O)nH and fatty glyceryl esters of polyethylene glycol (PEG), such as those of formula R(O)OCH2CH(OH)CH2(OCH2CH2)nOH, in which n is from 1 to about 200, preferably from about 20 to about 100, and R is an alkyl having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms.

[0037] Polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides as described in point (8) above useful here include mono-, di- and tri-glyceride derivatives and their mixtures.

[0038] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from those of the following general formula (II): He (H) RCOCH2CH(OH)CH2(OCH2CH2)„OH

[0039] in which:

[0040] n, the degree of ethoxylation, is from about 4 to about 200, preferably from about 5 to about 150, more preferably from about 20 to about 120, and

[0041] R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25 carbon atoms, preferably from about 7 to about 20 carbon atoms.

[0042] Suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides may be polyethylene glycol derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil.

[0043] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is selected from PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil and mixtures thereof.

[0044] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant is present in the composition used in the process of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Carboxylic acids of formula (I) and / or salts thereof

[0046] The composition used in the process of the present invention comprises at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof:

[0047] R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I)

[0048] in which:

[0049] - Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH,-CH 2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2 -COOH; And

[0050] - R2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom, or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is not a hydrogen atom; and

[0051] - R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 atoms of carbon or a cyclic alkyl group comprising 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0052] More specifically, carboxylic acids of formula (I) correspond to:

[0053] - compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions, when Ri re presents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a -CH2-COOH group, or when Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom or when Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom;

[0054] - compounds comprising three carboxylic acid functions, where Ri represents the group -CH(CH3)-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or when Ri represents a group -(CH2)2-N(COR3)-CH2-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; and

[0055] - compounds comprising two carboxylic acid functions, where Ri represents the group -CH2CH2OH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.

[0056] Carboxylic acids of formula (I) can take the form of pure enantiomers, preferably in L configuration, or the form of mixtures, in particular racemic mixtures.

[0057] The salt of the carboxylic acid of formula (I) is preferably chosen from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, transition metal salts, organic amine salts, ammonium salts or mixtures thereof.

[0058] Examples of alkali metal salts include, in particular, sodium (Na+) and potassium (K+) salts, while examples of alkaline earth metal salts include, in particular, calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mg2+) salts.

[0059] For the purposes of the present invention, a “transition metal” is a metal comprising an incomplete subshell, and more particularly in the oxidation state II, such as cobalt (Co2+), iron (Fe2+), manganese (Mn2+), zinc (Zn2+) and copper (Cu2+).

[0060] As for organic amine salts, one can mention primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts, or alternatively alkanolamines. These amines have one or more identical or non-identical radicals, of the alkyl type in C1 to C20, linear or branched, optionally comprising a heteroatom such as oxygen.

[0061] Preferably, the carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof used in the composition for the process of the present invention is selected from methylglycinediacetic acid, N-lauroylethylenediamine-N,N',N'-triacetic acid, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their salts of alkali metal, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures.

[0062] Better still, the carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof is selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their solvates and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Preferably, the carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof used according to the present invention is selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate tetrasodium (tetrasodium glutamate diacetate) and mixtures thereof.

[0064] Advantageously, the carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof is present in the composition used in the process of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cellulose-based polymers

[0065] The composition used in the process of the present invention preferably comprises at least one cellulose-based polymer.

[0066] As used here, the expression "cellulose-based polymer" is intended to designate any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0067] Preferably, the cellulose-based polymer used according to the invention is chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, cellulose esters, cellulose ethers, cellulose ester ethers and mixtures thereof.

[0068] Cellulose esters include mineral cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetobutyrates, acetopropionates and acetotrimellitates, etc.) and mixed organic / mineral cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetobutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetopropionate sulfates.

[0069] Cellulose ethers include nonionic cellulose ethers, anionic cellulose ethers and cationic cellulose ethers.

[0070] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, examples include (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, standard Ethocel). 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR supplied by Ashland) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (e.g., Bermocoll 20 E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0071] Among anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and their sodium salts.

[0072] Among cationic cellulose ethers, cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium, may be mentioned.

[0073] Among the cellulose ester ethers, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates can be cited.

[0074] More preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is chosen from among non-ionic cellulose ethers.

[0075] More preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is chosen from (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Most preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is chosen from hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses; hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses, hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Advantageously, the cellulose-based polymer is present in the composition used in the process of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 1.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0078] The composition used in the process of the present invention may further comprise a continuous aqueous phase.

[0079] The aqueous phase comprises water.

[0080] Water is preferably present in the composition used in the process of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% by weight to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. cosmetic active ingredients

[0081] Optionally, the composition used in the process of the present invention includes one or more additional active ingredients to revitalize the hair and / or care for the scalp.

[0082] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional active ingredients according to the desired objective. Adjuvants

[0083] The composition used in the process according to the present invention may also include additional adjuvants, such as perfumes, pH correctors, preservatives, etc.

[0084] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants so that it does not have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0085] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition used in the process of the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0086] a) from 10% by weight to 40% by weight of ethanol;

[0087] b) from 0.05% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one selected non-ionic surfactant including PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil and mixtures thereof; and

[0088] c) from 0.03% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate, and mixtures thereof. Preparation and use

[0089] The composition used in the process according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to c), as essential ingredients, together with one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.

[0090] With the use of said composition, the process according to the present invention can to effectively provide good detachment from the hair root. EXAMPLES

[0091] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0092] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0093] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate DISSOLVINE® GL-47-S AKZO NOBEL (NOURYON) Ethanol ABSOLUTE ALCOHOL ANHUIANTE FOOD Hydrogenated Castor Oil PEG-60 EMULSOGEN® HCO 060 CLARIANT Hydroxyethylcellulose NATROSOL™ 250 HHR CS ASHLAND Citric Acid CITRIC ACID MONOHYDRATE BP / USP / FCC / E330 JIANGSU GUOXIN UNION ENERGY Propanediol 1,3-PROPANEDIOL ZHANGJIAGANG GLORY CHEMICAL IND

[0094] Examples of the invention 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4

[0095] The compositions of inventive examples (El) 1 to 3 and comparative examples (EC) 1 to 4 were prepared with the components listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as percentages by weight based on the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated):

[0096] [Tables2] Components El. 1 El. 2 El. 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.05 0.5 5 0 0.5 0.5 0.05 Ethanol 30 30 30 30 0 30 0 Propanediol 0 0 0 0 0 0 30 PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0 0.3 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Citric acid pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0097] The compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 are compositions used in the process according to the present invention.

[0098] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or salt thereof.

[0099] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include at least one water-soluble penetration activator selected from C2-C8 monoalcohols.

[0100] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0101] The composition of comparative example 4 includes propanediol instead of at least one water-soluble penetration activator selected from C2-C8 monoalcohols.

[0102] Preparation procedure:

[0103] Each composition was prepared as follows, taking the composition of inventive example 1 as an example:

[0104] 1) Addition of water into a main container,

[0105] 2). Addition of hydroxyethylcellulose under stirring until the powder hydroxyethylcellulose should be well wetted and dispersed;

[0106] 3). addition of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and hydrogenated castor oil PEG-60 under agitation until thoroughly dissolved;

[0107] 4). Addition of ethanol under stirring to obtain a homogeneous composition; and

[0108] 5). pH correction with citric acid. Assessment :

[0109] A durable root detachment provided by the compositions of the inventive examples Examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were evaluated by an in vitro wick assay and / or a double-blind study. In vitro wick test

[0110] Strands of 1 g of natural hair were fixed upside down to a support via the root using a fixing clip. 0.45 g of the test compositions was applied to the fiber 3 cm from the root.

[0111] Durable root lift was rated from 1 to 5 by a sensory hair expert according to the following criterion:

[0112] 5: the hair root is lifted, folding downwards at least 2.5 cm from the It has a fixing clip and can hold for 8 hours.

[0113] 4: the hair root is lifted, folding downwards at least 2.5 cm from the The clamp secures the clamp and can hold for 4 hours.

[0114] 3: the hair root is lifted, folding downwards at least 2.5 cm from the The clip is for fastening and cannot hold for 4 hours.

[0115] 2: the hair root is lifted, folding downwards less than 2 cm from the clip fixing;

[0116] 1: the hair root is lifted, folding downwards less than 1.5 cm from the fixing clip.

[0117] Notes on the durable root detachment offered by the compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 4 have been summarized in Table 3.

[0118] [Tables3] Property EL 1 EL 2 EL 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Root detachment note 4 4 ​​5 2 3 3 1 Double-blind study

[0119] In a single-center, randomized, double-blind study, dermatologists assigned the following scores for the benefits of root detachment offered by the composition of Example 1 of the invention.

[0120] The hair was divided in the middle, the note was given according to the measure of angle-a between the two parts.

[0121] Note 1: 180 > alpha > 165

[0122] Note 2: 165 > alpha > 150

[0123] Note 3: 150 > alpha > 135

[0124] Note 4: 135 > alpha > 120

[0125] Note 5: 120 > alpha > 105

[0126] Note 6: 105 > alpha > 90

[0127] Note 7: 90 > alpha > 75

[0128] Note 8: 75 > alpha > 60

[0129] Note 9: 60 > alpha > 45

[0130] The score was assigned immediately after the first application (Timm), after 6 weeks of application (Tw6), and after 8 weeks of application (Tw8), 3 times per week. The reference was the pre-application result of the composition of inventive example 1.

[0131] The "root detachment change relative to the reference" was calculated from the difference in average score between the points in time (Timm, Tw6, Tw8) and the reference (T0).

[0132] The meanings on the durable root detachment offered by the composition of inventive example 1 have been summarized in Table 4.

[0133] [Tables4] Time point T0 (reference) Timm Tw6 Tw8 Change in root detachment relative to reference 0 0.51* 0.73* 0.8*

[0134] * : significant improvement over the reference

[0135] It can be seen in Tables 3 and 4 that the process using the composition of the present invention results in a good improvement in the detachment of the hair root.

Claims

Demands

1. A hair revitalization process comprising the application to the hair of a composition comprising: a) at least one water-soluble penetration activator selected from C2-C8 monoalcohols; b) at least one nonionic surfactant; c) at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which: - Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2 -COOH,-CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and - R2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom, or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and - R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic alkyl group comprising 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

2. Process according to claim 1, wherein the penetration activator is selected from C2-C6 monoalcohols, preferably, the penetration activator is ethanol.

3. Process according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the penetration activator is present in an amount from 1% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 10% by weight to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from those of the following general formula (II): O (II) ]^œCH2CH(QH)CH2^ in which: n, the degree of ethoxylation, is from about 4 to about 200, preferably from about 5 to about 150, more preferably from about 20 to about 120, and R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25 carbon atoms, preferably of about 7 to about 20 carbon atoms, preferably the nonionic surfactant is selected from PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil and mixtures thereof.

5. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the nonionic surfactant is present in an amount from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof is selected from methylglycinediacetic acid, N-lauroylethylenediamine-N,N',N'-triacetic acid, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and mixtures thereof, and preferably selected from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamethyl acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures,preferably chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate tetrasodium, and mixtures thereof.

7. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition further comprises at least one cellulose-based polymer, preferably the cellulose-based polymer is selected from unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose esters, cellulose ethers, cellulose ester ethers and mixtures thereof.

8. Process according to claim 7, wherein the polymer based on cellulose is chosen from nonionic cellulose ethers, preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is chosen from (poly)hydroxy (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, more preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is chosen from hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses; hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses, hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses and mixtures thereof.

9. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition further comprises a continuous aqueous phase, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water.

10. Process according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 10% by weight to 40% by weight of ethanol; b) from 0.05% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil and mixtures thereof; and c) from 0.03% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate tetrasodium, and mixtures thereof.