HAIR REVITALIZING COMPOSITION

A composition with cellulose-based polymers, non-ionic surfactants, hydroxy acids, and carboxylic acids addresses the stickiness issue in leave-in products, providing a soft and non-greasy hair experience.

FR3154612B3Active Publication Date: 2025-12-19LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2023013666
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-10-31
Filing Date
2023-12-06
Publication Date
2025-12-19
Estimated Expiration
2033-12-06

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing leave-in hair products with high concentrations of hydroalcoholic soluble active ingredients cause a sticky feeling on the scalp and hair roots, leading to undesirable sensory experiences.

Method used

A composition comprising cellulose-based polymers, non-ionic surfactants, hydroxy acids, and carboxylic acids, which provides a good fiber sensory quality by reducing stickiness and greasiness.

Benefits of technology

The composition offers a soft and non-greasy feeling to the hair, enhancing user satisfaction and hair revitalization.

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Abstract

HAIR REVITALIZATION COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for hair revitalization, comprising: a) at least one cellulose-based polymer; b) at least one non-ionic surfactant; c) 1.5% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one hydroxy acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; and b) at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof: R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which: - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH,-CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and - R2 represents a CH2COOH group when R1 represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when R1 is not a hydrogen atom; and - R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic alkyl group comprising 3 to 30 carbon atoms.The present invention also relates to a hair revitalization process comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the hair. Figure for the abstract: none.
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Description

Title of the invention: HAIR REVITALIZING COMPOSITION technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for revitalizing hair. The present invention also relates to a hair revitalization process. PRIOR TECHNOLOGY

[0002] Consumers tend to use leave-in scalp lotions when they have noticed their scalp problem: dandruff, scalp sensitivity, hair loss, etc.

[0003] Some leave-in products generally contain a high concentration of hydroalcoholic soluble active ingredients. To achieve greater transdermal absorption or penetration through the follicles, a simple method is to ensure a concentration gradient, meaning that a large amount of the active ingredient remains on the surface. Generally, a large amount of active ingredient will cause a sticky feeling on the scalp and at the hair roots, which is undesirable for consumers.

[0004] We therefore wish to have an effective solution for good sensory quality of hair. Summary of the invention

[0005] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a composition, preferably for hair revitalization, which can offer a good fiber sensory quality.

[0006] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for hair revitalization, comprising:

[0007] a) at least one cellulose-based polymer;

[0008] b) at least one non-ionic surfactant;

[0009] c) from 1.5% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one hydroxyl acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0010] d) at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof:

[0011] Ri-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I)

[0012] in which:

[0013] - Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH,-CH 2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2 -COOH; And

[0014] - R2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and

[0015] - R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 atoms of carbon or a cyclic alkyl group comprising 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0016] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention can effectively offer a good fiber sensory quality including softness and / or a non-greasy and / or not too sticky feeling.

[0017] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a hair revitalization process comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to the hair.

[0018] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0019] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises:

[0020] a) at least one cellulose-based polymer;

[0021] b) at least one non-ionic surfactant;

[0022] c) from 1.5% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one hydroxyl acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0023] d) at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) as defined above and / or a salt thereof. Cellulose-based polymers

[0024] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one cellulose-based polymer.

[0025] As used here, the expression "cellulose-based polymer" is intended to designate any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0026] Preferably, the cellulose-based polymer used according to the invention is chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, cellulose esters, cellulose ethers, cellulose ester ethers and mixtures thereof.

[0027] Cellulose esters include mineral cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetobutyrates, acetopropionates and acetotrimellitates, etc.) and mixed organic / mineral cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetobutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetopropionate sulfates.

[0028] Cellulose ethers include nonionic cellulose ethers, anionic cellulose ethers and cationic cellulose ethers.

[0029] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, examples include (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR supplied by Ashland) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (e.g., Bermocoll 20 E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0030] Among anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and their sodium salts.

[0031] Among cationic cellulose ethers, cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium, may be cited.

[0032] Among the cellulose ester ethers, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates can be cited.

[0033] More preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is chosen from among non-ionic cellulose ethers.

[0034] More preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is chosen from (poly)hydroxy(C 1 -C4)alkylcelluloses, mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and their mixtures.

[0035] Most preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is chosen from hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses; hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses, hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses and mixtures thereof.

[0036] Advantageously, the cellulose-based polymer is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 1.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic surfactants

[0037] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0038] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include, but are not limited to:

[0039] (1) alkyl phenol polyethylene oxide condensates, for example, the condensation products of alkyl phenols having an alkyl group containing from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms in a straight-chain or branched-chain configuration, with ethylene oxide, said ethylene oxide being present in amounts equal to about 10 to about 60 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alkyl phenol;

[0040] (2) those derived from the condensation of ethylene oxide with the product resulting from the reaction of propylene oxide and ethylenediamine products;

[0041] (3) the condensation products of aliphatic alcohols having from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, in straight-chain or branched-chain configurations, with ethylene oxide, for example, an ethylene oxide condensate of coconut alcohol having about 10 to about 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of coconut alcohol, the coconut alcohol fraction having about 10 to about 14 carbon atoms;

[0042] (4) long-chain tertiary amine oxides of formula [R'R2R3N—>0] where R1 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxy alkyl radical of about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, 0 to about 10 fractions of ethylene oxide, and 0 to about 1 fraction of glyceryl, and R2 and R3 each independently contain about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms and 0 to about 1 hydroxy group, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl radicals;

[0043] (5) long-chain tertiary phosphine oxides of formula [RR'R"P—>0] where R contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical ranging from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms in chain length, from 0 to about 10 fractions of ethylene oxide and from 0 to 1 fraction of glyceryl and R' and R” are each independently alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms;

[0044] (6) long-chain dialkyl sulfoxides containing an alkyl or hy- radical short-chain droxyalkyl of 1 to about 3 carbon atoms (usually methyl) and a long hydrophobic chain which include alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxyalkyl or ketoalkyl radicals containing about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms, 0 to about 10 fractions of ethylene oxide and 0 to 1 fraction of glyceryl;

[0045] (7) alkyl polysaccharide (APS) surfactants (e.g., alkyl polyglycosides), including APS surfactants having a hydrophobic group with approximately 6 to approximately 30 carbon atoms and a polysaccharide (e.g., polyglycoside) as the hydrophilic group; optionally, there may be a polyalkylene oxide group linking the hydrophobic and hydrophilic fractions; and the alkyl group (i.e., the hydrophobic fraction) may be saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and unsubstituted or substituted (e.g., with hydroxyl or cyclic rings); a preferred material is alkyl polyglucoside, which is commercially available from Henkel, ICI Americas, and Seppic; and

[0046] (8) polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers such as those of formula RO(CH2CH2O)nH and glyceryl fatty esters of polyethylene glycol (PEG), such as those of formula R(O)OCH2CH(OH)CH2(OCH2CH2)nOH, in which n is from 1 to about 200, preferably from about 20 to about 100, and R is an alkyl having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms.

[0047] Polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides as described in point (8) above useful here include mono-, di- and tri-glyceride derivatives and their mixtures.

[0048] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from those of the following general formula (II): o (II) RCOCH2CH(OH)CH2(OCH2CH2)„OH

[0049] in which:

[0050] n, the degree of ethoxylation, is from about 4 to about 200, preferably from about 5 to about 150, more preferably from about 20 to about 120, and

[0051] R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25 carbon atoms, preferably from about 7 to about 20 carbon atoms.

[0052] Suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides may be polyethylene glycol derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil.

[0053] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is selected from PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxyacids

[0055] The composition of the present invention comprises from 1.5% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one hydroxy acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] The hydroxy acid suitable for the composition according to the present invention can be chosen among alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, and their combinations, preferably alpha-hydroxy acids. Alpha-hydroxy acids

[0057] The term "alpha-hydroxy acid" is intended to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group).

[0058] Suitable alpha-hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, acid galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid.

[0059] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid is chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, and their combinations.

[0060] More preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid in the composition consists of lactic acid.

[0061] Lactic acid or 2-hydroxypropanoic acid allows for gentle exfoliation of excess sebum, residues and dead cells around the follicles and gives energy and bounce to the hair roots. Beta-hydroxy acids

[0062] The term "beta-hydroxy acid" is intended to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms.

[0063] Suitable beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroxybutyric acid, beta-hydroxy beta-methylbutyric acid, carnitine, their derivatives and combinations.

[0064] Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid and its derivative of formula (III):

[0065] wherein R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or a number of double bonds, which may be conjugated or not, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably from 3 to 11 carbon atoms and being able to be substituted, for example, by at least one substituent selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl functional group which is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0066] R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula (IV): ---O — C — Rj(iv) O

[0067] wherein Ri is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0068] Preferred salicylic acid derivatives include 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid.

[0069] More preferably, the beta hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and their combinations.

[0070] Most preferably, the beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.

[0071] Advantageously, the hydroxyacid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1.8% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2.2% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2.5% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably still from 3% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] Carboxyl acids of formula (I₂) and / or salts thereof

[0073] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof:

[0074] RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I)

[0075] in which:

[0076] - Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH,-CH 2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2 -COOH; And

[0077] - R2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and

[0078] - R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 atoms of carbon or a cyclic alkyl group comprising 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0079] More specifically, carboxylic acids of formula (I) correspond to:

[0080] - compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions, when Ri re presents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a -CH2-COOH group, or when Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom or when R represents the -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom;

[0081] - compounds comprising three carboxylic acid functions, where Ri represents the group -CH(CH3)-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or when Ri represents a group -(CH2)2-N(COR3)-CH2-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; and

[0082] - compounds comprising two carboxylic acid functions, where Ri represents the group -CH2CH2OH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.

[0083] Carboxylic acids of formula (I) can take the form of pure enantiomers, preferably in L configuration, or the form of mixtures, in particular racemic mixtures.

[0084] The salt of the carboxylic acid of formula (I) is preferably chosen from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, transition metal salts, organic amine salts, ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Examples of alkali metal salts include, in particular, sodium (Na+) and potassium (K+) salts, while examples of alkaline earth metal salts include, in particular, calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mg2+) salts.

[0086] For the purposes of the present invention, a “transition metal” is a metal comprising an incomplete subshell, and more particularly in the oxidation state II, such as cobalt (Co2+), iron (Fe2+), manganese (Mn2+), zinc (Zn2+) and copper (Cu2+).

[0087] As for organic amine salts, one can mention primary, secondary, or tertiary amine salts, or alternatively, alkanolamines. These amines exhibit a or several identical or non-identical radicals, of the linear or branched Ci to C2o alkyl type, optionally including a heteroatom such as oxygen.

[0088] Preferably, the carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof used in the composition of the present invention is selected from methylglycine-diacetic acid, N-lauroylethylenediamine-N,N',N'-triacetic acid, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their amine salts organic, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures.

[0089] Better still, the carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof is selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their solvates and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Preferably, the carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof used according to the present invention is selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate tetrasodium (tetrasodium glutamate diacetate) and mixtures thereof.

[0091] Advantageously, the carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% by weight to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0092] The composition of the present invention may further comprise a continuous aqueous phase.

[0093] The aqueous phase comprises water.

[0094] Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 98% by weight, preferably from 60% by weight to 97% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] Optionally, the continuous aqueous phase comprises one or more water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature 25 °C) such as, for example, mo alcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol (C1-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof. Active cosmetic ingredients

[0096] Optionally, the composition of the present invention includes one or more additional active ingredients to revitalize hair and / or care for the scalp, such as anti-inflammatory agents.

[0097] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional active ingredients according to the desired objective. Adjuvants

[0098] The composition of the present invention may also include additional adjuvants, such as perfumes, hydrotropes, pH correctors, preservatives, etc.

[0099] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants so that it does not have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0100] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0101] a) from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight of at least one non-ionic cellulose selected from hydroxymethyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and mixtures thereof;

[0102] b) from 0.05% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil and mixtures thereof,

[0103] c) from 2.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one hydroxy acid selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid and combinations thereof; and

[0104] d) from 0.03% by weight to 0.3% by weight of at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or salt thereof selected from the acid N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate tetrasodium and their mixtures. Preparation and use

[0105] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to d), as essential ingredients, together with one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.

[0106] The composition according to the present invention can offer a good fiber sensory quality.

[0107] The composition according to the present invention may be, for example, a revitalizer.

[0108] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a hair revitalization process comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to the hair. EXAMPLES

[0109] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0110] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1. [YES] [Table 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate DISSOLVINE® GL-47-S AKZO NOBEL (NOURYON) Lactic Acid L-LACTIC ACID (90%) (CRG) MUSASHINO CHEMICAL LABORATION Hydrogenated Castor Oil PEG-60 EMULSOGEN® HCO 060 CLARIANT Hydroxyethylcellulose NATROSOL™ 250 HHR CS ASHLAND Caffeine NATURAL ANHYDROUS CAFFEINE POWDER (EX COFFEE) TESTA Niacinamide NIACINAMIDE (A7000-9014) VEER CHEMIE & AROMATICS Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate DI-POTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZINATE MARUZEN Potassium Hydroxide CAUSTIC POTASSIUM LIQUID OXYCHEM Propanediol 1,3-PROPANEDIOL ZHANGJIAGANG GLORY CHEMICAL IND

[0112] Inventive Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6

[0113] The compositions of inventive examples (El) 1 to 3 and comparative examples (EC) 1 to 6 were prepared with the components listed in Table 2 (contents are expressed as percentages by weight based on the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise stated):

[0114] [Tables2] Components El. 1 DI 2 DI 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 CE. 5 CE. 6 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.05 0.05 0.05 0 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Lactic acid 3 6 3 3 0 3 3 3 1 PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0 0.3 0 0.3 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0 0 0.1 Propanediol 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.4 0 Caffeine 2 2 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 Niacinamide 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Dipotassium glycyrrhizate 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Potassium hydroxide pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0115] The compositions of examples 1 to 3 of the invention are compositions according to the present invention.

[0116] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof.

[0117] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include at least one hydroxy acid.

[0118] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0119] The composition of comparative example 4 does not include at least one cellulose-based polymer.

[0120] The composition of comparative example 5 does not include at least one non-ionic surfactant and at least one cellulose-based polymer.

[0121] The composition of comparative example 6 comprises 1% by weight of at least one hydroxy acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] Preparation procedure:

[0123] Each composition was prepared as follows, taking the composition of inventive example 1 as an example:

[0124] 1). Addition of water into a main container;

[0125] 2). Addition of hydroxyethylcellulose under stirring until the powder hydroxyethylcellulose should be well wetted and dispersed;

[0126] 3). addition of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and PEG- hydrogenated castor oil 60 under agitation until they are well dissolved;

[0127] 4). addition of lactic acid and water-soluble active ingredients (glycyrrhizate of dipotassium, niacinamide and caffeine) with stirring to obtain a homogeneous composition; and

[0128] 5). pH correction with potassium hydroxide. Assessment

[0129] The stickiness of the fiber, the feeling of softness and the oily hair after application of the compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 6 were evaluated by an in vitro strand test. In vitro wick test

[0130] Strands of 1 g of natural hair were fixed upside down to a support via the root using a fixing clip. 0.45 g of the test compositions was applied to the fiber 3 cm from the root.

[0131] The sticky feeling was rated from 1 to 5 by a hair expert according to the following criterion:

[0132] 1: no sensation of a powdery coating, no sticky sensation on the fingers after touching the strands;

[0133] 2: slightly powdery coating, slightly sticky feeling on the fingers, but the wick is smooth;

[0134] 3: powdery coating and sticky feeling on the fingers, acceptable and will not be not related to a feeling of dirtiness;

[0135] 4: significant powdery coating and sticky feeling on the fingers, the re garment gives a poor impression of dirtiness, still no visible white powder on the strands;

[0136] 5: highly powdery and very sticky coating on the fingers, and powder Visible white hair may appear after several combings.

[0137] The stickiness notes of the fibre after application of the compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 6 have been summarized in Table 3.

[0138] [Tables3] Properties ELI EL 2 EI.3 EC.1 EC. 2 EC.3 EC. 44 EC. 5 EC. 6 Fiber stickiness 2 1 2 4 5 4 3 5 5 Double-blind study

[0139] In a single-center, randomized, double-blind study, 69 European women were asked to use the composition of inventive example 1 for 8 weeks and to complete a questionnaire on the feeling of softness to the touch and the absence of a greasy feeling of the hair immediately after the first application (Timm) and after 8 weeks of application (Tw8). The percentages of women who agreed with the statements were recorded.

[0140] The results after application of the composition of inventive example 1 have been summarized in Table 4.

[0141] [Tables4] Timm Tw8 Time Point: Leaves hair soft to the touch 43% 78% Does not leave hair greasy 68% 70%

[0142] It can be seen in Table 4 that the composition of inventive example 1 results in a feeling of softness of the hair and does not leave the hair greasy.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for hair conditioning, comprising: a) at least one cellulose-based polymer; b) at least one nonionic surfactant; c) from 1.5% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one hydroxy acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; and d) at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which: - Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2 -COOH,-CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and - R2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and - R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic alkyl group comprising 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein: the cellulose-based polymer is selected from unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose esters, cellulose ethers, cellulose ester ethers and mixtures thereof, more preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is selected from nonionic cellulose ethers, even more preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is selected from (poly)hydroxy (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses, (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses mixed and mixtures thereof, most preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is selected from hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses; hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cellulose-based polymer is present in an amount from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 5% by weight, of preferably from 0.02% by weight to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from those of the following general formula (II): H(II)RCOCH2CH(OH)CH.j(QCH;^ in which: n, the degree of ethoxylation, is from about 4 to about 200, preferably from about 5 to about 150, more preferably from about 20 to about 120, and R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25 carbon atoms, preferably from about 7 to about 20 carbon atoms, preferably the nonionic surfactant is selected from PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil and their mixtures.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the hydroxy acid is selected from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids and combinations thereof, preferably selected from alpha-hydroxy acids, more preferably selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid and combinations thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the hydroxyl acid is present in an amount from 1.8% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2.2% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2.5% by weight to 10% by weight and even more preferably from 3% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof is

8.

9. selected from methylglycinediacetic acid, N-lauroylethylenediamine-N,N',N'-triacetic acid, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and mixtures thereof, and preferably selected from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate tetrasodium and their mixtures.Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises a continuous aqueous phase, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight of at least one non-ionic cellulose chosen from hydroxymethyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and mixtures thereof; b) from 0.05% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil and mixtures thereof, c) from 2.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one hydroxy acid selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid and their combinations; and d) from 0.03% by weight to 0.3% by weight of at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate tetrasodium and mixtures thereof.

10. Hair revitalization process comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the hair.