SKINCARE AND / OR MAKEUP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIAL

Abstract

SKINCARE AND / OR MAKEUP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIAL The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous material, comprising: a) at least one butter of vegetable origin with a melting point ranging from 25°C to 50°C; and b) at least one acylated derivative of a hydroxylated ester. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIAL Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a care and / or makeup composition of keratinous material, and relates in particular to a skin care composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] There are a variety of skin conditions that benefit from skin care compositions that can be applied and left on the skin. These conditions include many unpleasant sensations, for example, dryness and tightness, including the skin not being soft enough.

[0003] Currently, craftsmen are committed to solving the aforementioned problems and trying to bring benefits to the users' skin. The manufacturer always intends to provide a product with functional and sensory properties that please users. The products available on the market for application to the skin have excellent properties and, in general, their effectiveness is achieved while providing the user with comfortable and pleasant sensory experiences. Many ingredients usually associated with good skin feel are formulated into the products. However, current products often do not provide a sufficient smooth feeling and / or provide uncomfortable sticky texture and / or squeaky sensations.

[0004] Therefore, there is a need for a cosmetic product, for example, a skin care composition, which can provide pleasant sensations, including improved smoothness / stickiness and / or crunchiness after application. Summary of the invention

[0005] The inventors have found that such a need can be met by the composition according to the present invention.

[0006] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition, preferably for care and / or makeup of keratinous material comprising: a. at least one butter of vegetable origin with a melting point ranging from 25°C to 50°C; and b. at least one acyl derivative of hydroxylated ester.

[0007] By means of the specific combination of at least one butter of vegetable origin with a melting point ranging from 25°C to 50°C and at least one acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester, the composition comprising the latter can provide pleasant sensations, including improved sensations of softness / stickiness and / or crunchiness after application.

[0008] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a process for caring for and / or making up keratinous material, in particular the skin, comprising a. applying the composition according to the first aspect to the keratinous material, and optionally b. massaging the keratinous material for 2 seconds to 60 seconds.

[0009] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0010] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from... to...".

[0011] The articles "a" and "an", as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature, unless such a limitation is specifically stated. Furthermore, the expression "at least one" as used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0012] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all of the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features or features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (such as "consisting essentially of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "consisting essentially of," any additional composition, material, and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and novel characteristics is excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material, and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and novel characteristics may be included in the embodiment.

[0013] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing an amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise specified, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein document are approximate values ​​that may be modified depending on the desired performance obtained as required. The term "approximately" denoting a certain value is intended to denote a range within ± 5% of the value, for example: ± 3%, ± 2%, ± 1% and ± 0.5% of the value.

[0014] As used herein, the term "keratinous material" refers to the skin and lips. By "skin" is included all skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material refers to the skin. Butter of vegetable origin

[0015] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one butter of vegetable origin with a melting point ranging from 25°C to 50°C.

[0016] According to the present invention, the butter of vegetable origin preferably has a melting point ranging from 28°C to 45°C, and more preferably from 30°C to 40°C.

[0017] Hereinafter, the term "butter" designates a fatty compound which undergoes a reversible solid / liquid change of state, and which includes, at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0018] According to the present invention, the particular vegetable butter may be those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.

[0019] Mention may be made of shorea butter, illipe butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), tucuma butter, coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), babassu butter, and jojoba butter (Simmondsia Chinensis butter).

[0020] Examples of plant-based butter include, but are not limited to, mango butter, such as that sold under the reference TRIVENT MANGO BUTTER by the company ALZO, Jojoba butter, such as that sold under the name ISO JOJOBA™ 50 by the company DESERT WHALE (VANTAGE SPEC. CHEM.), and murumuru butter, such as that sold under the reference Rain Forest RF3710 by the company BERACA INGR. NATURAIS.

[0021] Additionally, examples of vegetable-derived butter include, but are not limited to, fats having a hydrocarbon chain distribution of C12:30-55% / C14:10-40% wherein the fat has two hydrocarbon chains, one hydrocarbon chain having 12 carbons and being present in the fat in an amount of 30-55%, and a second hydrocarbon chain having 14 carbons and being present in the fat in an amount of 10-40%, for example, murumuru seed butter.

[0022] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises murumuru butter. Astrocaryum murumuru is a palm plant found, for example, in Brazil; murumuru butter is extracted from the seeds of the plant.

[0023] Advantageously, the butter of vegetable origin is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester

[0024] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester.

[0025] According to the present invention, preferably, the acylated hydroxylated ester derivative is an ester derivative which is formed from a (mono or poly)carboxylic acid carrying at least one OH function and one or more (mono or poly)alcohols, in which said at least one OH function is acylated to form at least one other ester group.

[0026] The carboxylic acid carries one or more OH groups, that is to say it is mono-hydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, and preferably monohydroxylated.

[0027] The carboxylic acid carrying at least one OH function is chosen from monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated (mono or poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0028] Preferably, the carboxylic acid carrying at least one OH function is chosen from dicarboxylic acids or monohydroxylated saturated tricarboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, chosen in particular from monohydroxylated saturated tricarboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0029] The alcohol is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated (mono or poly) alcohols comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alcohol is chosen from linear saturated monoalcohols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0030] Preferably, the acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester is chosen from acetylated derivatives, propionyl derivatives and butyrylated derivatives, and is more preferably chosen from acetylated derivatives.

[0031] Examples of the carboxylic acid bearing at least one OH function include, but are not limited to, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, malic acid, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid. Preferred examples of the carboxylic acid bearing at least one OH function include citric acid and malic acid, and in particular citric acid.

[0032] Examples of the alcohol include, but are not limited to, methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, hexanol, ethylhexanol, decanol and isodecanol. Preferred examples of alcohol include ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol and hexanol, and especially butanol.

[0033] According to the present invention, examples of the acylated hydroxy ester derivative include, but are not limited to, acetyl tributyl citrate, acetyl triethyl citrate, acetyl triethylhexyl citrate, acetyl trihexyl citrate and butyroyl trihexyl citrate, and preferably acetyl tributyl citrate.

[0034] A particularly preferred example of the acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester is that sold under the name “CITROFLEX” by the company VERTELLUS and in particular acetyl tributyl citrate (“CITROFLEX-A4”).

[0035] Advantageously, the acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0036] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0037] In the following, the expression “hydrophilic gelling agent” designates a compound which is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0038] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from acrylate-based polymers, celluloses or their derivatives, gums or their derivatives, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from acrylate-based polymers.

[0039] In the present invention, preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from acrylate / Cio-C3O alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / C io-3o Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), such as the products sold under the trade names Pemulen™ TRI, Pemulen™ TR2, Pemulen™ EZ-4U, Carbopol® 1382, Carbopol® EDT 2020, Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer and Carbopol® Ultrez 21 Polymer by the company Lubrizol.

[0040] Advantageously, the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Phospholipid surfactant

[0041] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one phospholipid surfactant.

[0042] As used herein, the term "phospholipid" refers to a glycerol moiety to which two fatty acids are esterified at the carbon-1 and carbon-2 positions, and a phosphate group is esterified at the carbon-3 position. The fatty acid groups that are typically esterified to glycerol may be saturated or unsaturated C12-C20 fatty acids, and are preferentially selected from the group consisting of palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, and arachidonic acids. The phosphate group may be substituted or unsubstituted. In its unsubstituted form, the phospholipid is phosphatidic acid. Substituents for the phosphate group are well known to those skilled in the art and may include nitrogen-containing alcohols (e.g., ethanolamine, serine, and choline) and inositol (hexahydroxycyclohexane). A preferred botanically derived phospholipid is lecithin derived from soybean.Lecithin can be hydrogenated, so that the unsaturated fatty acids in lecithin are converted to saturated fatty acids by hydrogenation.

[0043] According to the present invention, a particularly preferred example of the phospholipid surfactant is hydrogenated lecithin.

[0044] Advantageously, the phospholipid surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrolyzed protein

[0045] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one hydrolyzed protein.

[0046] The hydrolyzed protein may be fully hydrolyzed or partially hydrolyzed.

[0047] Examples of hydrolyzed protein include, but are not limited to, hydrolyzed gelatin, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed casein, hydrolyzed whey protein, hydrolyzed milk protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed egg protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed corn protein, hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed potato protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed yeast protein, and hydrolyzed vegetable protein.

[0048] According to the present invention, a particularly preferred example of the hydrolyzed protein is hydrolyzed soy protein.

[0049] Advantageously, the hydrolyzed protein is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous solvent

[0050] The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one aqueous solvent.

[0051] Preferably, the aqueous solvent of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example C2-C8 polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0052] The term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be cited include glycols, for example butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

[0053] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present application further comprises at least one C2-C8 polyol chosen from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin and polyethylene glycols.

[0054] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises both water and a C2-C8 polyol, preferably glycerol (i.e. glycerin).

[0055] Advantageously, the C2-C8 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 0.15% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] Advantageously, water is present in an amount ranging from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the foaming composition. Additional ingredients

[0057] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those conventionally used in skin care products.

[0058] The composition according to the present invention may comprise any of the following additives: pH correcting agents, biological extracts, antibacterial agents, perfumes and chelating agents.

[0059] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients. Composition

[0060] According to the present invention, the composition comprising the above components may be in the form of a lotion, an emulsion, a paste or a cream.

[0061] Preferably, the composition comprising the above components is in the form of an emulsion, for example, a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, an oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) emulsion or a water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) emulsion. More preferably, the composition comprising the above components is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.

[0062] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention does not comprise silicone or silicone oil. Therefore, said composition can avoid the undesirable effects of silicones and silicone oils, for example, drying and irritation of the skin, and further negatively affecting the pleasant feeling.

[0063] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can provide improved sensations of skin softness / stickiness and / or crunch after application.

[0064] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a care and / or makeup composition of keratinous material, comprising: a. a butter of plant origin chosen from mango butter, Murumuru butter, jojoba butter and combinations thereof, in particular Murumuru butter; and b. acetyl tributyl citrate.

[0065] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a care and / or makeup composition of keratinous material, comprising: a. a butter of plant origin chosen from mango butter, Murumuru butter, jojoba butter and combinations thereof, in particular Murumuru butter, b. acetyl tributyl citrate, c. a hydrogenated lecithin, and d. a hydrolyzed protein.

[0066] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a care and / or makeup composition of keratinous material, in particular a skin care composition, comprising: a. an amount of 0.2% by weight to 1% by weight of a butter of vegetable origin chosen from mango butter, Murumuru butter, jojoba butter and combinations thereof, in particular Murumuru butter, relative to the total weight of the composition, b. an amount of 0.4% by weight to 12% by weight of acetyl tributyl citrate, relative to the total weight of the composition, c. an amount of 0.5% by weight to 2% by weight of a hydrogenated lecithin, based on the total weight of the composition, and d. an amount of 1% by weight to 5% by weight of a hydrolyzed protein, based on the total weight of the composition. Process and use

[0067] The composition according to the present invention is used in a process of care and / or makeup of keratinous material, such as the skin, in particular the face, by application to the keratinous material.

[0068] It has been found that the composition according to the present invention can provide an improved feeling of skin softness / stickiness and / or crunch after application.

[0069] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, in particular using a finger or a palm.

[0070] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a process for caring for and / or making up keratinous material, in particular the skin, comprising the application of the above composition to the keratinous material, and optionally massaging the skin for 2 seconds to 60 seconds.

[0071] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustrations. EXAMPLES

[0072] The main raw materials used, trade names and their supplier are listed in Table 1.

[0073] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier ASTROCARYUM MURUMURU SEED BUTTER RAIN FOREST 03710 BERACA INGR. NATURAIS MANGIFERA INDICA (MANGO) SEED BUTTER TRIVENT MANGO BUTTER ALZO SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) BUTTER ISO JOJOBA™ 50 DESERT WHALE (VANTAGE SPEC. CHEM.) ACETYL TRIBUTYL CITRATE CITROFLEX™ A4 VERTELLUS HYDROLYZED SOY PROTEIN A00092 PHYTOKINE™HYDROLITE5 BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTION

[0074] Comparative Examples 1 to 4 and Inventive Examples 1 to 4

[0075] The compositions according to Comparative Examples (EC.) 1 to 4 and Inventive Examples (Ex.) 1 to 4 comprising the ingredients shown in Table 2 were prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active ingredients relative to the total weight of each composition.

[0076] [Tables2] % by weight Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 Murumuru Butter 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 MANGIFERA INDICA (Mango) Butter 0.5 SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (Jojoba) Butter 0.5 Acetyl Tributyl Citrate 1.2 10 1.2 1.2 - - - - Trioctyl Dodecyl Citrate - - - 10 - - Tributyl Citrate - - - - 10 - Trii-Sostearyl Citrate - - - - - 10 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Hydrogenated Lecithin 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Hydrolyzed soy protein 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Glycerin 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Water QS QS QS QS QS QS QS QS Preparation process

[0077] The compositions were prepared from a process comprising the following steps, taking the composition of Inventive Example 1 as an example: 1. Mix the Murumuru butter and acetyl tributyl citrate under stirring at room temperature to form Premix 1, and continue to stir Premix 1 until it is clear, 2. Mix hydrogenated lecithin with water and glycerin under stirring at a temperature of 60°C to form Premix 2, and continuing to stir Premix 2 until it is homogeneous, then heating Premix 2 to a temperature of 75°C, 3. heat Premix 1 from step 1) to a temperature of 75°C, 4. add Premix 1 from step 3) into Premix 2 from step 2) and carry out emulsification by VMI at 100 rpm for 10 minutes at a temperature of 75°C to form Mixture 1, 5. Gently stir Mixture 1 and cool it to room temperature using a water bath, and 6. Add the acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer and hydrolyzed soy protein into Mix 1 to form Mix 2, and continue stirring Mix 2 until clear to form the final composition. Evaluation of compositions

[0078] The as-prepared compositions were evaluated for softness, stickiness and crunch.

[0079] Five trained experts from a panel were asked to evaluate the compositions by a skin sensory test. For each composition, the five trained experts applied 0.2 g of the composition to the skin and gave a score for evaluation. The final scores for softness, stickiness, and crunch were calculated as an average.

[0080] Softness means the ease of pushing the skin upward with two fingers.

[0081] Procedure (gesture): place the index and middle fingers on the bottom of the cheek and push the cheek upwards five times. Skin softness after application was assessed with a score of 1 (very uncomfortable, i.e., friction was felt) to 5 (very soft), and the final score was averaged and ranked according to the following criteria.

[0082] Scores from 4.1 to 5.0: Excellent,

[0083] Scores from 3.1 to 4.0: Good,

[0084] Score of 3.0: Neither good nor bad,

[0085] Scores from 2.0 to 2.9: Poor,

[0086] Scores from 1.0 to 1.9: Very poor.

[0087] Sticky texture refers to the feeling of adhesion between the back of two fingers (index and middle fingers) and the skin of the cheek.

[0088] Procedure (gesture): Evaluate the sticky texture between the back of the fingers and the cheek immediately after application. The stickier it was, the higher the score, and vice versa. The final score was averaged and classified according to the following criteria.

[0089] Scores from 4.1 to 5.0: Super sticky,

[0090] Scores from 3.1 to 4.0: very sticky,

[0091] Score of 3.0: Moderately sticky,

[0092] Scores from 2.0 to 2.9: Not very sticky,

[0093] Scores from 1.0 to 1.9: Non-sticky.

[0094] Squealing refers to the intensity of squeaking friction (dragging sensation) when touching the skin.

[0095] Procedure (gesture): lightly move the back of the fingers (index and middle) on the cheek (slide 1 to 2 times from bottom to top) and evaluate the viscous sensation immediately after application. The more viscous it was, the higher the score and vice versa. The final score was averaged and classified according to the following criteria.

[0096] Scores from 4.1 to 5.0: Super crunchy,

[0097] Scores from 3.1 to 4.0: Very crunchy,

[0098] Score of 3.0: Moderately crunchy,

[0099] Scores from 2.0 to 2.9: Not very crunchy,

[0100] Scores from 1.0 to 1.9: Not squeaky.

[0101] The results were summarized in Table 3.

[0102] [Tables3] Properties Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex.4 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Softness score 4 5 3.2 3.1 2 2 1.5 1.5 Stickiness score 1 1 1 2 1 3 4 3.5 Crunchy score 2 1 2 2 2 4.5 3.5 5

[0103] From the data in Table 3, it can be seen that only compositions comprising both a plant-based butter of the present invention and an acyl derivative of a hydroxyl ester of the present invention can achieve both a softness score of 3.1 or higher and a stickiness and / or crunchiness score of 2 or lower. In contrast, the composition of EC. 1 comprising only a plant-based butter achieves a softness score of 2, and the compositions of EC. 2 to 4 comprising a hydroxyl ester that is not an acyl derivative achieve a softness score of 2 or lower and a stickiness and / or crunchiness score of 3.5 or higher.

[0104] In this way, the compositions of the Inventive Examples, comprising both a vegetable-derived butter of the present invention and an acyl hydroxy ester derivative of the present invention, can achieve a higher sweetness score and / or a score of lower stickiness and / or crunch than the compositions of the Comparative Examples, and it is thus demonstrated that the compositions of the present invention can provide a significant improvement in the sensations of softness and stickiness and / or crunch.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, preferably for care and / or makeup of keratinous material, comprising: a) at least one butter of vegetable origin with a melting point ranging from 25°C to 50°C; and b) at least one acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the vegetable butter has a melting point ranging from 28°C to 45°C, and preferably from 30°C to 40°C.

3. Composition according to claim 1, in which the butter of vegetable origin is chosen from mango butter, Murumuru butter, Jojoba butter and combinations thereof, and is in particular Murumuru butter.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the acylated hydroxylated ester derivative is an ester derivative which is formed from a (mono or poly)carboxylic acid carrying at least one OH function and one or more (mono or poly)alcohols, wherein said at least one OH function is acylated to form at least one further ester group.

5. Composition according to claim 4, in which the carboxylic acid carrying at least one OH function is chosen from dicarboxylic acids or monohydroxylated saturated tricarboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, chosen in particular from monohydroxylated saturated tricarboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or the alcohol is chosen from linear saturated monoalcohols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or the acylated derivative of hydroxylated ester is chosen from acetyl derivatives, propionyl derivatives and butyryl derivatives, and is preferably chosen from acetyl derivatives.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the acylated hydroxy ester derivative is selected from the group consisting of acetyl tributyl citrate, acetyl triethyl citrate, acetyl triethylhexyl citrate, acetyl trihexyl citrate, butyroyl trihexyl citrate and mixtures thereof, and is preferably acetyl tributyl citrate.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, which is chosen from acrylate-based polymers, celluloses or their derivatives, gums or their derivatives, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably chosen from acrylate-based polymers, and is in particular the crosslinked polymer of acrylates / Cimo-alkyl acrylate

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one phospholipid surfactant which is preferably chosen from hydrogenated lecithin.

9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one hydrolyzed protein which is preferably selected from hydrolyzed gelatin, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed casein, hydrolyzed whey protein, hydrolyzed milk protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed egg protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed corn protein, hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed potato protein, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed yeast protein, hydrolyzed vegetable protein and mixtures thereof, and is in particular hydrolyzed soy protein, in which the hydrolyzed protein is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Process for caring for and / or making up keratinous material, in particular the skin, comprising a) applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous material, and optionally b) massaging the keratinous material for 2 seconds to 60 seconds.