KERATINOUS MATERIAL SKINCARE COMPOSITION

Abstract

KERATINOUS MATERIAL CARE COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one ceramide-type compound; (ii) at least one solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds; (iii) at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant; and (iv) at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials, comprising the application of said composition to the skin. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: KERATINOUS MATERIAL CARE COMPOSITION technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a keratinous material care composition. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The skin acts as a natural barrier between the internal and external environments and therefore plays an important role in vital biological functions such as protection against mechanical and chemical injury, microorganisms and damage caused by ultraviolet radiation.

[0003] Ceramides are the main natural lipids of the stratum corneum, representing 50% of the total intercellular lipids. When the concentration of ceramides is insufficient, the skin tends to become dry and sensitive. Topical application of ceramides can restore the skin barrier and retain moisture. However, ceramides have a high crystallinity and readily transform into molecular crystals. Ceramides can be dispersed in water using a surfactant or similar agent, but it is difficult to sufficiently reduce their particle size (i.e., to achieve greater transparency), and a high dosage of surfactant is required.

[0004] As a branch of nanocarrier technology, solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) were developed more than 30 years ago. Compared to traditional nanocolloidal systems such as nanoemulsions and liposomes, SLNs were more stable due to their solidity at room temperature. SLNs are normally spherical with a diameter of less than 500 nm (more preferably <100 nm). The structure of SLNs is a hydrophobic solid lipid core surrounded by a surfactant layer. The intrinsic properties of SLNs are deeper skin penetration, low toxicity, and high bioavailability.

[0005] Compositions containing solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) are emerging in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, particularly for the encapsulation of hydrophobic cosmetic active ingredients within the lipid core. Some cosmetic actives, such as ceramides, are insoluble in water. Dissolving them directly in an oil can cause a greasy feeling. Thanks to SLNs, they can be easily incorporated into water-based formulas, which allows for the production of homogeneous suspensions.

[0006] Currently, typical methods for preparing SLNs include high-speed, high-pressure homogenization, high-frequency sonication, and membrane emulsification, which require a high mechanical energy input, are costly, and are difficult to achieve on an industrial scale.

[0007] Thus, there is still a need to develop solid lipid nanoparticles comprising ceramides, which can be easily prepared. Summary of the invention

[0008] One object of the present application is to propose solid lipid nanoparticles comprising ceramides, which can be easily prepared.

[0009] Another object of the present application is to propose a formulation for the preparation of solid lipid nanoparticles comprising ceramides, which can be easily transformed into solid lipid nanoparticles.

[0010] The inventors have now discovered that the above objects can be obtained by the present invention.

[0011] Consequently, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising:

[0012] (i) at least one ceramide-type compound;

[0013] (ii) at least one solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds;

[0014] (iii) at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant; and

[0015] (iv) at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant.

[0016] In some embodiments, the composition is a homogeneous mixture. Solid lipid nanoparticles can be easily formed from the homogeneous mixture.

[0017] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of solid lipid nanoparticles. Solid lipid nanoparticles can be easily formed.

[0018] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of a suspension of solid lipid nanoparticles in aqueous phase.

[0019] The suspension of the present invention can be used for skin care.

[0020] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0021] Other advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0022] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0023] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0024] Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0025] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0026] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be changed according to the desired purpose, if applicable.

[0027] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, and hair. Facial skin is considered in particular according to the present invention.

[0028] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0029] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0030] (i) at least one ceramide-type compound;

[0031] (ii) at least one solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds;

[0032] (iii) at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant; and

[0033] (iv) at least one single-chain non-ionic surfactant. Ceramide-type compounds

[0034] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one ceramide-type compound.

[0035] According to the present invention, the expression "ceramide-type compound" is intended to designate natural and / or synthetic ceramides and / or glycoceramides and / or pseudoceramides and / or neoceramides.

[0036] Ceramide-type compounds are disclosed, for example, in applications for patents DE 4424530, DE 4424533, DE 4402929, DE 4420736, WO 95 / 23807, WO 94 / 07844, EP-A-0 646 572, WO 95 / 16665, FR-2 673 179, EP-A-0 227 994, WO 94 / 07844, WO 94 / 24097 and WO 94 / 10131, the teachings of which are included here for reference.

[0037] The ceramide-type compounds that can be used according to the present invention preferably correspond to the general formula (I): r. *3 (I) O |3 R—C--N—CH-CH—O—R, ■ II r4 r =

[0038] in which:

[0039] - Ri designates:

[0040] - either a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical in Ci-C50, of preference in C5-C50, this hydrocarbon radical being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups optionally esterified by an acid R7COOH, R7 being a hydrocarbon radical optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched in Ci-C35, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls of the radical R7 being optionally esterified by a fatty acid optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched in Ci-C35;

[0041] - either a radical R"-(NR-CO)-R', in which R denotes hydrogen or a hy radical mono- or polyhydroxylated hydrocarbon, preferably monohydroxylated, in C1-C20, R' and R" are each independently of hydrocarbon radicals, whose sum of carbon atoms is between 9 and 30, R' being a divalent radical;

[0042] - either a radical R8-O-CO-(CH2)P, in which R8 designates a hydrocarbon radical in Ci-C2o and p is an integer ranging from 1 to 12;

[0043] - R2 is chosen from hydrogen, a saccharide-type radical, in particular a radical (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m or sulfogalactosyl, a sulfate or phosphate residue, a phosphorylethylamine radical and a phosphorylethylammonium radical, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0044] - R3 designates hydrogen or a hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon radical and saturated or unsaturated in CrC33, the hydroxyl or hydroxyl groups being optionally esterified by an inorganic acid or an acid R7COOH, R7 having the same meanings as above, and the hydroxyl group or hydroxyl groups being optionally etherified by a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m, sulfogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, n and m having the same meanings as above, R3 being optionally substituted by one or more Ci-CM alkyl radicals; preferably, R3 denotes a Ci5-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl radical, the group hydroxylated being optionally esterified by a hydroxy acid in Ci6-C30;

[0045] - R4 designates hydrogen, a methyl or ethyl radical, a hydrocarbon radical optionally hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched in C3-C50 or a -CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-R6 radical, in which R6 denotes a hydrocarbon radical in C26-Cio, or an R8-O-CO-(CH2)P radical, in which R8 denotes a hydrocarbon radical in CrC2o and p is an integer ranging from 1 to 12;

[0046] - R5 designates hydrogen or a hydrocarbon radical, optionally mono- or poly- hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched in CrC3o, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls being optionally etherified by a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m, sulfo-galactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0047] provided that, where R3 and R5 denote hydrogen or where R3 denotes hydrogen and R5 denotes methyl, then R4 does not denote hydrogen or a methyl or ethyl radical.

[0048] Preference is given, among compounds of formula (I), to ceramides and / or glycoceramides with the structure described by Downing in Journal of Lipid Research, Vol. 35, 2060-2068, 1994, or those disclosed in French patent application FR-2 673 179, the teachings of which are included here by way of reference.

[0049] The ceramide-type compounds that are most particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds of formula (I) for which Ri designates an optionally hydroxylated and saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from fatty acids in Ci4-C22; R3 designates an optionally hydroxylated and linear radical in Cn-Cp and preferably a radical in Ci3-Ci5, preferably designates an α-hydroxyketyl radical, and R2, R4 and R5 designate hydrogen.

[0050] Preferably, the ceramide-type compound is selected from 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-oc-tadecane-l,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-alpha-hydroxystearoyl-phytosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy)-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Most preferably, the ceramide can be chosen from N-alpha-hydroxystearoyl-phytosphingosine (also called AP ceramide), sold, for example, under the name DS-CERAMIDE AP by Solus Advanced Materials, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine (also called ceramide NP), sold, for example, under the name DS-CERAMIDE Y3S by Solus Advanced Materials Co., Ltd., and their mixtures.

[0052] Advantageously, the ceramide-type compound is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 0.3% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 0.25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Solid lipids

[0053] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds.

[0054] As used herein, "solid lipid" means that the lipid is solid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). The melting point is above 25 °C, preferably above 45 °C.

[0055] Solid lipids other than ceramide-type compounds may be selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes, mono-, di- or triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Advantageously, the solid fatty acids comprise 12 to 24 carbons with a carboxyl group, preferably the solid fatty acid is chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably the solid fatty acid is chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Advantageously, the solid fatty alcohols comprise 12 to 24 carbons with a hydroxyl group, preferably the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauric alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, more preferably the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0058] Advantageously, the waxes are waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof, preferably the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, lacquer wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] Advantageously, mono-, di- or triglycerides are chosen from among the esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, linear or branched including 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably, the mono-, di- or triglyceride is chosen from the mono-, di- or triglycerides of one or more of the following: lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

[0060] Preferably, the solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds is selected from candelilla wax, beeswax, shea butter, glyceryl mono- / di- / tri-stearate and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Advantageously, the solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds and the ceramide-type compound is 20 to 5000, preferably 20 to 3000, more preferably 20 to 2000, even more preferably 20 to 1000, most preferably 30 to 500. Non-ionic double-chain surfactants

[0063] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one double-chain non-ionic surfactant.

[0064] The nonionic double-chain surfactant is different from the solid lipids mentioned above.

[0065] Preferably, the non-ionic double-chain surfactant is selected from the diesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a poly-glyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs.

[0066] Examples of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 8 to 22 carbon atoms include lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

[0067] More preferably, the double-chain nonionic surfactant is selected from PG2 dicaprate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 distearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 dioleate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 distearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 dioleate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 distearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 dioleate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 distearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 dioleate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 distearate, PG6 dusostearate, PG6 dioleate, PG7 dicaprate, PG7 dicaprylate, PG7 dilaurate, PG7 dimyristate, PG7 distearate, PG7 dusostearate, PG7 dioleate, PG8 dicaprate, PG8 dicaprylate, PG8 dilaurate, PG8 dimyristate, PG8 distearate, PG8 dusostearate, PG8 dioleate, PG9 dicaprate, PG9 dicaprylate, PG9 dilaurate, PG9 dimyristate, PG9 distearate, PG9 dusostearate, PG9 dioleate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 distearate, PG10 dusostearate, PG10 dioleate and mixtures thereof.

[0068] More preferably still, the non-ionic double-chain surfactant is chosen from polyglyceryl dioleate, polyglyceryl distearate and mixtures thereof.

[0069] The double-chain nonionic surfactant can be derived from a renewable source.

[0070] Advantageously, the double-chain nonionic surfactant is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Single-chain non-ionic surfactants

[0071] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one single-chain non-ionic surfactant.

[0072] The single-chain nonionic surfactant is different from the solid lipids mentioned above.

[0073] Preferably, the single-chain nonionic surfactant is selected from monoesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs.

[0074] More preferably, the single-chain nonionic surfactant is selected from PG2 caprate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 oleate, PG3 caprate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 oleate, PG4 caprate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 oleate, PG5 caprate, PG5 caprylate, laurate PG5, PG5 myristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 oleate, PG6 caprate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 laurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 oleate, PG7 caprate, PG7 caprylate, PG7 laurate, PG7 myristate, PG7 stearate, PG7 isostearate, PG7 oleate, PG8 caprate, PG8 caprylate, PG8 lauratePG8 myristate, PG8 stearate, PG8 isostearate, oleate, PG8, PG9 caprate, PG9 caprylate, PG9 laurate, PG9 myristate, PG9 stearate, PG9 isostearate, PG9 oleate, PG10 caprate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 laurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 oleate and mixtures thereof.

[0075] The single-chain nonionic surfactant can be derived from a renewable source.

[0076] More preferably, the single-chain nonionic surfactant is chosen from polyglyceryl laurate, polyglyceryl myristate, polyglyceryl stearate and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Advantageously, the single-chain nonionic surfactant is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] Advantageously, the ratio between the total weight of the double-chain nonionic surfactant and the single-chain nonionic surfactant and the weight of the solid lipid is from 0.2 to 20, preferably from 0.3 to 15, more preferably from 0.4 to 10, most preferably from 0.5 to 5. Aqueous phase

[0079] The composition of the present invention may include a continuous aqueous phase.

[0080] Said aqueous phase comprises water.

[0081] Advantageously, said aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 20% by weight to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% by weight to 99% by weight, and more preferably from 50% by weight to 99% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0082] The composition of the present invention may include an additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to the ceramide-type compound.

[0083] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and its derivatives; sunscreens; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; agents acting on microcirculation, etc.

[0084] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of the additional cosmetic active ingredient according to the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0085] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents, preservatives and bactericides, thickeners, pH correctors, fillers and mixtures thereof.

[0086] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so that it does not have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0087] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a skincare composition of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0088] (i) from 0.05% by weight to 0.25% by weight of a compound selected from the N- alpha-hydroxystearoyl-phytosphingosine, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine and their mixtures;

[0089] (ii) from 3% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one solid lipid selected from candelilla wax, beeswax, shea butter, glyceryl mono- / di- / tri-stearate and mixtures thereof;

[0090] (iii) from 1% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one nonionic double-chain surfactant selected from polyglyceryl dioleate, polyglyceryl distearate and mixtures thereof; and

[0091] (iv) from 1% by weight to 6% of at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant selected from polyglyceryl laurate, polyglyceryl myristate, polyglyceryl stearate and mixtures thereof. pharmaceutical form and process

[0092] In some embodiments, the composition is a homogeneous mixture, from which solid lipid nanoparticles can be easily formed by spontaneous emulsification without involving a vigorous input of mechanical energy, for example high-speed, high-pressure homogenization, sonication, or membrane emulsification.

[0093] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of solid lipid nanoparticles. Solid lipid nanoparticles can be easily formed and the macroscopic crystallization of ceramide-type compounds can be effectively suppressed.

[0094] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of a suspension of solid lipid nanoparticles in aqueous phase. The suspension can be easily formed and the macroscopic crystallization of the compounds can be ceramide can be effectively removed.

[0095] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is in the form of a translucent or semi-translucent suspension of solid lipid nanoparticles in aqueous phase.

[0096] When the nanoparticle size is between 110 and 150 nm, the composition is considered semi-translucent; and when the nanoparticle size is less than 110 nm, the composition is considered translucent. When the nanoparticle size is greater than 500 nm, the composition is considered creamy.

[0097] The composition of the present invention may take the form of a lotion, a cream, a serum, etc.

[0098] The composition of the present invention can be used as shampoos, hair coloring products, and hair conditioners, skin care products, etc.

[0099] Thus, the composition of the present invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials.

[0100] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for treating keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials. EXAMPLES

[0101] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0102] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0103] [Tables] INCI name Trade name Supplier Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax Light Special Candelilla REAL® Multiceras SA de CV Polyglyceryl dioleate-10 (and) tocopherol Sunsoft Q-172Y-C(MB) Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. Polyglyceryl-10 laurate DERMOFEEL G 10 L MB Evonik Operations GmbH Ceramide NP DS-CERAMIDE Y3S Solus Advanced Materials Co., Ltd. Ceramide AP DS-CERAMIDE AP Solus Advanced Materials

[0104] Inventive examples 1 to 5 and Comparative examples 1 to 3

[0105] The compositions of inventive examples (El.) 1 to 5 and comparative examples (EC.) 1 to 3 in dispersion form were prepared according to the quantities given in Table 2. The quantity of each component is given as % by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.

[0106] [Tables2] Ingredients El. 1 EL 2 El. 3 EL 4 EL 5 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 - Polyglycer yl dioleate-10 (and) to-copherol 2 2 2 2 2 2 - 2 Polyglycer yl-10 laurate 3 3 3 3 3 - 3 3 Ceramide NP 0.1 0.15 - - 0.1 0.15 0.15 0.15 Ceramide AP - - 0.1 0.15 0.05 - - - Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0107] Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate (and) Tocopherol comprises 99.95% by weight of polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and 0.05% by weight of tocopherol.

[0108] The compositions of inventive examples 1 to 5 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0109] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant.

[0110] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include at least one non-ionic double-chain surfactant.

[0111] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include at least one solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds.

[0112] Preparation process:

[0113] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking as an example, the composition of inventive example 1:

[0114] 1) mixture of solid lipids (Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax), surfactants (polyglyceryl-10 dioleate (and) tocopherol, polyglyceryl-10 laurate) and ceramide (ceramide NP) at a temperature of 90°C until a homogeneous oily phase is obtained;

[0115] 2) heating the water to a temperature of 90°C;

[0116] 3) adding the oily phase obtained in step 1) to water with stirring during approximately 10 minutes to obtain a suspension;

[0117] 4) rapid cooling of the resulting suspension to room temperature. Assessment

[0118] Each suspension of inventive examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 3 was evaluated in terms of particle size and stability.

[0119] The particle sizes in the suspensions of inventive examples (E1.) 1 to 5 and comparative examples (CE1.) 1 to 3 were determined using Brookhaven dynamic light scattering (DLS) equipment. Each sample was tested in triplicate. The particle sizes of fresh samples and samples stored for 2 months at 4 °C, at room temperature (20 to 25 °C), and at 45 °C, respectively, were measured to monitor stability.

[0120] The main experimental parameters for the DLS experiments have been listed in Table 3.

[0121] [Tables3] Parameters Setpoint value Instrument parameters Angle 90 degrees Wavelength 659 nm Cell type Disposable polystyrene Measurement parameters Temperature 25 degrees C Set time 100 seconds Equilibrium time 120 seconds Dust threshold 20 to 30 Sample parameters Liquid Water Viscosity 1 cP Refractive index (RI) 1.457 (RI value for candelilla wax)

[0122] Table 4 shows the effective diameter and the polydispersity index (PDI) of each suspension of inventive examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 3 after 2 months of storage.

[0123] [Tables4] EL 1 EL 2 EL 3 EL 4 EL 5 EC 1 to 3 4 °C Effective diameter (nm) 10³ 16² 96 98 10³ Not measurable Polydispersity index 0.20 0.23 0.32 0.32 0.31 Not measurable TA Effective diameter (nm) 10² 114 96 10¶ 10³ Not measurable Polydispersity index 0.21 0.31 0.28 0.29 0.3 Not measurable 45 °C Effective diameter (nm) 10⁹ 217 10⁸ 127 150 Not measurable Polydispersity index 0.24 0.21 0.29 0.3 0.29 Not measurable

[0124] Effective diameter: average diameter.

[0125] The term "not measurable" means that the samples are too turbid / cloudy to be measured because of too many large particles.

[0126] The smaller the effective diameter, the more transparent the suspension. When the effective diameter is less than 110 nm, the suspension appears translucent. When the effective diameter is between 110 nm and 500 nm, the suspension appears semi-translucent.

[0127] The smaller the PDI, the better the stability.

[0128] If the effective diameter of a sample stored for a period of time was less than 500 nm without the formation of large aggregates on the wall of the container, then the sample was considered "stable", otherwise the sample was considered "unstable".

[0129] Table 5 shows the stability of each suspension in inventive examples 1 to 5.

[0130] [Tables5] Properties EI. 1 EI. 2 EI. 3 EI. 4 EI. 5 Appearance at TO / after storage Translucent / semi-translucent Semi-transparent / semi-translucent Translucent / semi-translucent Translucent Translucent Stability 4 °C Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable TA Stable Stable Stable Stable 45 °C Stable Stable Stable Stable

[0131] Table 6 shows the stability of each suspension in comparative examples 1 to 3.

[0132] [Tableauxô] EC1 Properties EC2 EC3 Appearance at TO / after storage Creamy / phase separation Creamy / phase separation Creamy / phase separation Stability 4 °C Unstable Unstable Unstable TA Unstable Unstable Unstable 45 °C Unstable Unstable Unstable

[0133] It can be seen in Tables 4 to 6 that the suspensions of inventive examples 1 to 5 have a translucent or semi-translucent appearance and are stable for at least 2 months, while the suspensions of comparative examples 1 to 3 are not stable.

Claims

1.

2. Demands A composition, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one ceramide-type compound; (ii) at least one solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds; (iii) at least one nonionic double-chain surfactant; and (iv) at least one single-chain non-ionic surfactant. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the ceramide-type compound corresponds to the general formula (I): _ R, O |3 R—C--N—CH-ÇH—O—R2 - R4 Rs in which: - Ri refers to: - either a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched in C1-C50, preferably in C5-C50, this hydrocarbon radical being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups optionally esterified by an acid R7COOH, R7 being a hydrocarbon radical optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched in Ci-C35, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls of the radical R7 being optionally esterified by a fatty acid optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched in Ci-C35; - either a radical R"-(NR-CO)-R', in which R designates a hydrogen atom or a mono- or polyhydroxylated hydrocarbon radical, preferably monohydroxylated, in C1-C20, R' and R" are each independently of hydrocarbon radicals, whose sum of carbon atoms is between 9 and 30, R' being a divalent radical; - either a radical R8-O-CO-(CH2)P, in which R8 designates a hydrocarbon radical in C1-C20 and p is an integer varying from 1 to 12; - R2 is chosen from hydrogen, a saccharide-type radical, in particular a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m or sulfogalactosyl radical, a sulfate or phosphate residue, a phosphorylethylamine radical and a phosphorylethylammonium radical, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

3. - R3 designates hydrogen or a hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon radical saturated or unsaturated in CrC33, optionally the hydroxyl or hydroxyls being esterified by an inorganic acid or an acid R7COOH, R7 having the same meanings as above, and optionally the hydroxyl or hydroxyls being etherified by a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m, sulfogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, n and m having the same meanings as above, optionally R3 being substituted by one or more alkyl radicals in CrCi4; preferably, R3 designates an α-hydroxyalkyl radical in Ci5-C26, the hydroxylated group being optionally esterified by a hydroxyacid in Ci6-C30; - R4 denotes hydrogen, a methyl or ethyl radical, a hydrocarbon radical optionally hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched in C3-C50 or a -CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-R6 radical, in which R6 denotes a hydrocarbon radical in Ci0-C26, or an R8-O-CO-(CH2)p radical, in which R8 denotes a hydrocarbon radical in Ci-C20 and p is an integer ranging from 1 to 12; - R5 designates hydrogen or a hydrocarbon radical optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched in Ci-C30, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls being optionally etherified by a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m, sulfogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical; provided that, where R3 and R5 denote hydrogen or where R3 denotes hydrogen and R5 denotes methyl, then R4 does not denote hydrogen or a methyl or ethyl radical. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the ceramide-type compound is selected from 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol; N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine; N- alpha-hy droxy s téaroy 1-phy to sphingo sine, N -stearoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N- docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof; preferably, the ceramide-type compound is selected from N-alpha-hydroxystearoyl-phytosphingosine, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds is selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes, mono-, di- or triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the solid fatty acids comprise 12 to 24 carbons with a carboxyl group, preferably the solid fatty acid is selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably the solid fatty acid is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof;solid fatty alcohols comprise 12 to 24 carbons with a hydroxyl group, preferably the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauric alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, more preferably the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof; Waxes are waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures, preferably the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, lacquer wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax;Montan's wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof; the mono-, di- or triglycerides are selected from the mono-, di- or triglycerides of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, including 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably the mono-, di- or triglyceride is selected from the mono-, di- or triglycerides of one or more of the following: lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and my- acid; ristique.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the nonionic double-chain surfactant is selected from the diesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the single-chain nonionic surfactant is selected from the diesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerol motifs.

8. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) 0.05% by weight to 0.25% by weight of a compound selected from N-alpha-hydroxystearoyl-phytosphingosine, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine and mixtures thereof; (ii) 3% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one solid lipid selected from candelilla wax, beeswax, shea butter, glyceryl mono- / di- / tri-stearate and mixtures thereof; (iii) 1% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one nonionic double-chain surfactant selected from polyglyceryl dioleate, polyglyceryl distearate and mixtures thereof; and (iv) 1% by weight to 6% of at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant selected from polyglyceryl laurate, polyglyceryl myristate, polyglyceryl stearate and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising a continuous aqueous phase.

10. Non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.