COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION
An oil-in-water emulsion with C14-C30 fatty alcohol, anionic surfactants, and acrylic polymers provides a stable, non-greasy, and smooth cosmetic experience, addressing the issues of existing compositions.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023014495
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-11-15
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-19
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-19
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-12-19
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions for skincare and makeup provide inadequate sensory experiences, with a greasy feel and uneven application due to thick texture, lacking stability and smoothness.
A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing C14-C30 fatty alcohol, anionic surfactants, hydrophilic acrylic polymers, and amphiphilic acrylic copolymers, ensuring a non-greasy feel and smooth application.
The composition achieves stable, non-greasy, and evenly spreadable texture with excellent consistency and smoothness, maintaining stability over time.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION COMPOSITION technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The present invention further relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] The development of formulations dedicated to skincare and / or makeup for the skin and / or lips is ongoing. These formulations must have satisfactory properties in terms of application, such as ease of use, and also in terms of sensory properties, such as hydration and / or a moisturizing sensation, and freshness after application.
[0003] A wide variety of cosmetic compositions are used to care for the skin, particularly to provide hydration. These compositions typically contain lipophilic moisturizing agents that inhibit water loss by occlusion. For example, efforts have been made to formulate compositions in the form of creams or emulsions. Thanks to the thick texture of these compositions, it is possible to provide the skin with a moisturizing sensation through occlusion.
[0004] However, these types of products are still not satisfactory.
[0005] Consumers experience an unpleasant greasy feeling after applying the product. Moreover, due to the thick texture of the products, it is not easy to apply them evenly to the skin and the change in texture is not very good.
[0006] There is therefore still a need to formulate a stable composition for skincare that has a non-greasy feel and a good texture in terms of consistency, shear flowability, and smoothness. The composition is expected to spread easily on the skin during application.
[0007] It is therefore desirable to propose stable compositions, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, which have excellent texture and sensory characteristics. Summary of the invention
[0008] The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate such compositions having the desired properties as described above.
[0009] Specifically, the inventors discovered that it is possible to formulate com stable positions, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, which have an excellent texture in terms of consistency, fluidization by shear and smooth character as well as non-greasy feel.
[0010] Consequently, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising:
[0011] (i) more than 2% by weight of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol, relative to the weight total composition;
[0012] (ii) at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates and sulfates;
[0013] (iii) at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer; and
[0014] (iv) at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymer.
[0015] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Thus, said composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed oily phase.
[0016] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous materials.
[0017] The composition of the present invention is easily and evenly applied to the skin, without long massage with the fingers.
[0018] The composition of the present invention may exhibit excellent consistency, shear fluidization and smoothness upon application, as well as a non-greasy feel.
[0019] The composition of the present invention is stable, namely, it does not exhibit phase separation or granule formation after 2 months of storage at 4°C, room temperature (20°C) and 45°C.
[0020] Other features and advantages of the invention will become clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0021] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0022] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".
[0023] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0024] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (namely, "consisting of").
[0025] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which, where appropriate, may be changed according to the desired purpose.
[0026] As used herein, the expression "keratinous materials" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" means all the skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material is the skin of the face.
[0027] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.
[0028] The composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0029] (i) more than 2% by weight of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol, relative to the weight total composition;
[0030] (ii) at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates and sulfates;
[0031] (iii) at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer; and
[0032] (iv) at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymer. C14-C30 Fatty Alcohols
[0033] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises more than 2% by weight of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0034] The expression "fatty alcohol" refers to any alcohol having the structure R—OH, in which R designates a linear hydrocarbon-based chain, saturated or unsaturated.
[0035] The expression "hydrocarbon-based chain" refers to an organic group consisting mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.
[0036] The alcohol or fatty alcohols present in the composition according to the invention comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising 14 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0037] Preferably, the C14-C30 fatty alcohol comprises a hydrocarbon-based chain that is a linear alkyl or alkenyl comprising 14 to 30 carbon atoms; more preferably, the C14-C30 fatty alcohol comprises a chain with hydrocarbon base which is a linear alkyl or alkenyl comprising 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0038] The C14-C30 fatty alcohol or alcohols suitable for the composition of the present invention, for example, are myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol), phannitoleyl alcohol (cis-9-hexadecanol-1-ol), cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol), erucyl alcohol (cis-13-docosen-1-ol), lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol), myricyl alcohol and melissyl alcohol (1-triacontanol).
[0039] Preferably, the C14-C30 fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol), stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol), cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol) and mixtures thereof.
[0040] More preferably, the C14-C30 fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol), stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol), cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol) and mixtures thereof.
[0041] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one C14-C20 fatty alcohol in an amount exceeding 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the C14-C30 fatty alcohol. The inventors have found that the composition exhibits excellent shear strength when the composition comprises at least one C14-C20 fatty alcohol in an amount exceeding 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the C14-C30 fatty alcohol.
[0042] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises cetearyl alcohol.
[0043] In certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol with a weight ratio between arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol greater than 0.5.
[0044] Advantageously, the C14-C30 fatty alcohol is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 2.5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 3.5% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic acid surfactants
[0045] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates and sulfates.
[0046] It is understood in this description that:
[0047] - anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3) and may optionally also include one or more sulfate groups, but do not include carboxylate groups; and
[0048] - anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3 ) but do not include carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
[0049] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is chosen from fatty acid amide sulfonates and alkyl sulfates.
[0050] More preferably, the fatty acid amide sulfonate is chosen from those of formula (I): OR2 R3 (I) H j Ri— C — N — CH — (CHA)n — SO3
[0051] in which:
[0052] RI is a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain of 7 to 21 carbon atoms,
[0053] R2 is H or a methyl group,
[0054] R3 is H, COO M+, CH2COO-M+ or COOH,
[0055] n is equal to 0 to 2, and
[0056] M is selected from sodium, potassium and ammonium.
[0057] Preferably, the fatty acid amide sulfonate is chosen from among the taurates.
[0058] The preferred taurates are those according to formula (II) O Ra (II) Ri — C — N — CH2—CH2—SO3' M*
[0059] in which
[0060] Ri is a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain of 7 to 21 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 19 carbon atoms,
[0061] R2 is H or methyl, and
[0062] M is sodium or potassium.
[0063] Appropriate examples of taurates include potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium caproyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium methyl palmitoyl taurate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate and mixtures thereof.
[0064] Potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium methyl palmitoyl taurate and sodium methyl stearoyl taurate and mixtures thereof are preferred.
[0065] Preferably, the alkyl sulfate is chosen from among the C12-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular the C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, especially in the form of alkali metal salts or of alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohols, for example, sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salt.
[0066] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0067] Salts of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
[0068] In some preferred embodiments, the composition includes at least one C12-C20 sodium alkyl sulfate as an anionic surfactant.
[0069] According to certain particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention, the anionic surfactant is sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, sodium cetearyl sulfate and mixtures thereof.
[0070] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophilic acrylic polymers
[0071] According to the first aspect, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer.
[0072] As used herein, the expression "hydrophilic acrylic polymers" means, in particular, non-hydrophobic and non-amphiphilic acrylic polymers.
[0073] Hydrophilic acrylic polymers that can be used according to the invention include polymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or etha-crylic acid or one of their salts or esters, such as acryloyldimethyltaurate polymer, preferably ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate sold under the name Hostacerin AMPS by Clariant, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer sold under the name Aristoflex AVC by Clariant.
[0074] Preferably, the hydrophilic acrylic polymers are crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid. The crosslinking agent used in the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid is selected from pentaerythritol allyl ether, sucrose allyl ether, or propylene allyl ether.
[0075] As commercial examples of crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers or Examples of methacrylic acid include carbomers, such as products sold under the names CARBOPOL® 940, CARBOPOL® 941, CARBOPOL® 980, CARBOPOL® 981 sold by LUBRIZOL, the product sold under the name ACRYPOL® 980 by COREL PHARMA CHEM, and the products sold under the name SYNTHALEN® K by 3V.
[0076] For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferable that the hydrophilic acrylic polymer be a carbomer.
[0077] The inventors unexpectedly discovered that with the introduction of a hydrophilic acrylic polymer as defined in the combination of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates and at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymer, the resulting system would have a very smooth, grain-free character.
[0078] Advantageously, the hydrophilic acrylic polymer is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphiphilic acrylic copolymers
[0079] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymer.
[0080] These copolymers comprise both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part including at least one fatty chain. They are therefore amphiphilic copolymers.
[0081] A fatty chain of such a polymer can comprise from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0082] Preferably, the acrylic copolymers are amphiphilic copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), which are also called AMPS® copolymers.
[0083] The AMPS® copolymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
[0084] Among the crosslinking agents that may be suitable for use, the following may be mentioned without limitation: methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).
[0085] The degree of crosslinking can range from 0.01% in mol to 10% in mol and particularly from 0.2% in mol to 2% in mol relative to the copolymer.
[0086] These copolymers may also contain other hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomers selected, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their alkyl-substituted derivatives or their esters obtained with mono- or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, itaconic acid and maleic acid, or mixtures thereof.
[0087] An amphiphilic acrylic copolymer suitable for the present invention can be selected from the amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS® and at least one monomer
[0088]
[0089] ethylenically unsaturated comprising at least a hydrophobic part containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. The hydrophobic part can be a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl radical (e.g., n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl), branched (e.g., isostearic) or cyclic (e.g., cyclododecane or adamantane). An ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer suitable for use in the invention may be selected from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (A) below: R (A) Q--Q
[0090]
[0091]
[0092]
[0093]
[0094]
[0095]
[0096]
[0097]
[0098]
[0099] in which: R27 designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl), Y denotes O or NH; R28 designates a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain containing 7 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms. The hydrophobic radical R28 is chosen from among saturated or unsaturated linear C7-C30 alkyl radicals (e.g. n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl), branched alkyl radicals (e.g. isostearic) or cyclic alkyl radicals (e.g. cyclododecane or adamantane). Among these radicals, linear and branched alkyl radicals are particularly preferred. According to one embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic radical R28 may also include at least one alkylene oxide motif and in particular a polyoxyalkylene chain. A polyoxyalkylene chain can be formed from ethylene oxide motifs and / or propylene oxide motifs, and even more particularly can be formed solely from ethylene oxide motifs. The number of moles of oxyalkylene motifs can generally range from 1 to 30 mol, more particularly from 3 to 25 mol and even more particularly from 5 to 25 mol. An amphiphilic copolymer according to the invention can be partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N- methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for example arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.
[0100] Among the AMPS® amphiphilic copolymers suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of crosslinked or noncrosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers comprising from 15 wt% to 60 wt% of AMPS motifs and from 40 wt% to 85 wt% of (C8-C20)alkyl(meth)acrylamide or (C8_C20)alkyl(meth)acrylate motifs relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 750 899.
[0101] As amphiphilic copolymers suitable for use in the invention, examples include polyoxyethylenated copolymers (crosslinked or noncrosslinked) of AMPS® and alkyl methacrylates, and mixtures thereof, the number of moles of oxyethylene motifs ranging from 1 to 30 mol, preferably from 3 to 25 mol and more preferably from 5 to 25 mol.
[0102] As amphiphilic copolymers suitable for use in the invention, we may also mention copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS® and n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and / or n-octadecyl methacrylate, and also copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, which may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
[0103] We can also mention amphiphilic copolymers, cross-linked or non-cross-linked, comprising, or even being formed from:
[0104] 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid motifs (AMPS®) of formula (B) below: -■■■ W'-ÇH-....... (B) -----------—gh^^x
[0105] in which X may be a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or an ammonium ion;
[0106] and formula motifs (C) below: R2- (C) — Œj —-ç O- H jQMCS )O>R2§
[0107] in which:
[0108] n and p, independently of each other, denote a number of moles and range from 0 to 30, in particular from 1 to 25 and more particularly from 3 to 25, provided that n + p is less than or equal to 30;
[0109] R27 has the same meaning as that indicated in the preceding formula (A), and
[0110] R29 designates a linear or branched alkyl radical, comprising from 7 to 22 atoms of carbon.
[0111] In formula (B), the cation X may more particularly designate sodium or ammonium.
[0112] Examples include:
[0113] non-crosslinked amphiphilic copolymers for which p = 0, n = 7 or 25, R27 denotes the methyl and R29 represents the C18 alkyl or a mixture of a C16 alkyl and a Cl8 alkyl, and
[0114] crosslinked amphiphilic copolymers for which p = 0, n = 8 or 25, R27 denotes the methyl and R29 represents the C18 alkyl or a mixture of C16 alkyl and C18 alkyl.
[0115] These copolymers are described and synthesized in document EP 1 069 142.
[0116] The molar percentage concentration of the formula motifs (B) and the formula motifs (C) in an amphiphilic polymer according to the invention can vary depending on the desired cosmetic application, the nature of the emulsion (oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion) and the rheological properties of the desired formulation.
[0117] It can be between 0.1 and 99.9% by mol.
[0118] The molar proportion of motifs of formula (B) in an amphiphilic polymer according to the invention can preferably range from 0.1% to 50%, more particularly from 1% to 25% and even more particularly from 3% to 10%.
[0119] The molar proportion of formula (C) motifs in an amphiphilic polymer according to the invention can preferably range from 50.1% to 99.9%, more particularly from 60% to 95% and even more particularly from 65% to 90%.
[0120] The distribution of monomers in the polymers of the invention can be, for example, alternating, block (including multiblock) or random.
[0121] By way of example, and without limitation, the following commercial references may be cited: Aristoflex® HMS and Aristoflex® HMB sold by Clariant, these two references relating to crosslinked polymers.
[0122] Aristoflex® HMS is the name of the AMPS® / ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate (25 EO) 80 / 20 copolymer, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / stearate-25 methacrylate crosspolymer as INCI name.
[0123] As an INCI name, Aristoflex® HMB is an ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.
[0124] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized copolymer of AMPS and polyoxyethylene alkyl methacrylate, the alkyl containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of moles of oxyethylene motifs ranges from 1 to 30 mol, preferably from 3 to 25 mol and more preferably from 5 to 25 mol.
[0125] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymer selected from ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 crosslinked polymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / stearate-25 crosslinked polymer, and one of their combinations.
[0126] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises the crosslinked polymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate.
[0127] The inventors unexpectedly discovered that with the introduction of an amphiphilic acrylic copolymer into the combination of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates and at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer, the resulting system would have a suitable consistency and could deliver a non-greasy film on keratinous materials.
[0128] Advantageously, the amphiphilic acrylic copolymer is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase
[0129] As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of the present invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.
[0130] Said aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 90% by weight, more preferably from 20% by weight to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0131] The continuous aqueous phase may comprise water, at least one water-miscible organic solvent, or mixtures thereof.
[0132] Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 85% by weight, preferably from 20% by weight to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] Preferably, the continuous hydrophilic phase comprises at least one water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature of 25 °C) such as, for example, monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and having preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol (Ci-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol (Ci-C4)alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof.
[0134] In some embodiments, the continuous hydrophilic phase of the composition of the present invention may comprise water and a polyol, preferably glycerin.
[0135] The organic solvent is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0136] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises 20% by weight to 80% by weight of water and 5% by weight to 20% by weight of glycerin, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase
[0137] As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of the present invention it also includes at least one dispersed oily phase.
[0138] The oily phase contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.
[0139] The term "oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound that is immiscible with water and is liquid at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0140] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0141] The term "non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[0142] The term “volatile oil” means any oil which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
[0143] The oily phase may include hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0144] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
[0145] The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.
[0146] For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferable that the hydrocarbon-based oil be isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.
[0147] The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and, in particular, at least one Si-O group.
[0148] The oils may optionally include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
[0149] Advantageously, the oily phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention. cosmetic active ingredients
[0150] As a keratinous material care composition, the composition of the present invention may include a cosmetic active ingredient.
[0151] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include moisturizing agents; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; brightening agents; firming agents; exfoliating agents; repairing and soothing agents; anti-aging agents; agents acting on microcirculation and mixtures thereof.
[0152] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of the cosmetic active ingredient based on the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives
[0153] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents, preservatives and bactericides, additional surfactants, additional thickeners, fillers, pH correctors, and mixtures thereof.
[0154] A person skilled in the art can adjust the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0155] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0156] (i) from 3.5% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol selected among cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0157] (ii) from 0.4% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from the sulfonates according to formula (II) Rr C — N........CH2-..........CH2™“ SO3' M+
[0158] in which
[0159] Ri is a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain of 7 to 21 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 19 carbon atoms,
[0160] R2 is H or methyl, and
[0161] M is sodium or potassium,
[0162] sodium C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, and
[0163] their mixtures;
[0164] (iii) from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer selected from crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid; and
[0165] (iv) from 0.4 wt% to 2 wt% of at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymer selected from an optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and poly-oxyethylene alkyl methacrylate, the alkyl containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of moles of oxyethylene motifs ranges from 1 to 30 mol, preferably from 3 to 25 mol and more preferably from 5 to 25 mol. Method and use
[0166] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.
[0167] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous materials.
[0168] In particular, keratinous materials can be skin, for example facial skin. EXAMPLES
[0169] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.
[0170] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0171] [Tables] INCI name Trade name Supplier Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer ARISTOFLEX HMS CLARIANT Carbomer SYNTHALEN K 3V Sigma SPA Cetearyl alcohol AL-1618 50:50 MB PETER CREMER Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate NIKKOL SMT NIKKOL Beeswax / CERA ALBA CERABEIL LOR BAERLOCHER (CERESINE) Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate SP ARLACEL 165-FP MBAL-PA-(RB) CRODA C20-22 alcohols NAFOL 2022 EN SASOL Behenyl alcohol LANETTE 22 BASF
[0172] Inventive Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5
[0173] The compositions of inventive examples (El) 1 and 2 and comparative examples (EC) 1 to 5 were prepared on the basis of the quantities given in Table 2. The quantities are given as % by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0174] [Tables2] Components DI 1 DI 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 CE. 5 Cetearyl alcohol 4 4 4 4 2 Behenyl alcohol 1 C20-22 alcohols 3 Beeswax 4 Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.6 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate 0.6 Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate cross-linked polymer 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.7 0.5 0.5 Carbomer 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.7 0.2 0.2 Glycerin 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100
[0175] The composition of Inventive Examples 1 and 2 represents compositions according to the present invention.
[0176] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include C14-C30 fatty alcohols.
[0177] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include hydrophilic acrylic polymer.
[0178] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include amphiphilic acrylic copolymer.
[0179] The composition of comparative example 4 does not include anionic surfactant selected from among the sulfonates.
[0180] The composition of comparative example 5 does not include more than 2% by weight of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0181] Preparation process:
[0182] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking as an example the composition of inventive example 1:
[0183] 1. homogenization of the anionic surfactant, the ingredients for the aqueous phase y including polymers and ingredients for the oily phase including oils and fatty alcohol at 75 °C;
[0184] 2. Emulsification at 75 °C for 10 minutes to obtain the mixture; and
[0185] 3. Cooling the mixture to room temperature with gentle stirring. Composition evaluation
[0186] The stability and texture of each prepared composition and the sensations delivered by them were evaluated. Stability
[0187] Each composition was stored for 2 months at 4°C, room temperature (20°C) and 45°C, respectively. Its appearance was observed and it was examined under a microscope. If there was no phase separation and no significant change in the size of the oil droplets and the type of crystallization after storing a composition for 2 months at 4°C, room temperature (20°C) and 45°C, then the composition was evaluated as "stable"; otherwise, it was evaluated as "unstable". Texture
[0188] It was observed that all the compositions obtained had a creamy texture. The texture of each of the compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 to 5 was further evaluated in terms of smoothness, consistency, shear fluidization properties and viscosity deviation with a specific rheological measurement protocol.
[0189] For the evaluation of the smoothness, the sample was spread on a black plate after storage at room temperature for 2 months in the form of a layer with a thickness of 0.5 to 1 mm using a spatula, and then observed to see if there were any granules.
[0190] The smoothness was noted according to the following standard by a cosmetics expert: 1. Not smooth at all, with many granules 2. Not very smooth with visible granules 3. Rather not smooth, with several granules 4. Smooth but with a few granules 5. Very smooth, without granules
[0191] For the purposes of the present invention, a smoothness score of 3 or higher is acceptable.
[0192] Consistency is used to evaluate the density of a composition upon first application. Consistency was evaluated using a viscometer. Ty Five grams of each of the compositions from inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were placed in the viscometer and stirred uniformly. The viscosity of each composition was recorded at 10 seconds (T10s). The viscosity of each composition at T10s is used to assess consistency. The higher the viscosity of the composition, the better its consistency and density.
[0193] For the purposes of the present invention, the viscosity of the composition at TlOs greater than 6000 mPa.s is acceptable.
[0194] Shear fluidization is used to evaluate the change in texture and freshness of a composition during application. Shear fluidization was evaluated using a viscometer. Typically, 5 g of each of the compositions in inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were taken into the viscometer and stirred uniformly, and the viscosity of each composition was recorded at 10 seconds (T1Os) and 30 seconds (T3Os), respectively. The viscosity difference value of each composition at T1Os and T3Os is used to evaluate the shear fluidization. The greater the viscosity difference value at T1Os and T3Os of the composition, the better the shear fluidization of the composition, and the better the change in texture and freshness of the composition.
[0195] For the purposes of the present invention, a viscosity difference value greater than 300 mPa.s is acceptable.
[0196] The viscosity shift was evaluated as follows: first, a shear rate increasing from 1 s⁻¹ to 200 s⁻¹ was applied to the samples for 3 minutes; then, a shear rate of 200 s⁻¹ was maintained for 2 minutes; then, the shear rate was stopped for 5 minutes to allow the samples to recover from the structural disturbance; finally, a shear rate decreasing from 200 s⁻¹ to 1 s⁻¹ was applied for 3 minutes. The viscosity of the samples was recorded with the change in shear rate. The viscosity shift is the difference between the initial viscosity and the final viscosity, which can be used to evaluate shear robustness, i.e., the recovery of the structure after shearing. The smaller the viscosity difference of a composition, the better the shear strength of the composition, and the better the filling performance of the composition.In general, if the viscosity deviation value is not greater than 10,000 mPa·s, shear strength is considered acceptable. Sensory properties.
[0197] The sensations delivered by each of the compositions of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were rated by 5 skin experts in terms of non-greasy character according to the following standard.
[0198] 1: very oily
[0199] 2: fat
[0200] 3: medium fat
[0201] 4: a little greasy
[0202] 5: non-greasy
[0203] For the purposes of the present invention, a non-bold character score of 3 or higher is acceptable.
[0204] The results of the stability and texture in terms of consistency, shear fluidization and smoothness of the compositions of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5 as well as the sensations delivered by them have been summarized below.
[0205] [Tables3] Properties El. 1 El. 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 EC. 5 Stability Stable Stable Unstable Stable Stable Unstable Stable Texture Consistency (mPa.s) 8462 6570 5067 8344 8368 11976 5705 Shear Fluidization Yes Yes No Yes No Yes No Shear Strength Acceptance Yes Yes No Yes Yes No Yes Smoothness 4 5 5 2 5 1 5 Sensory Properties Non-greasy 3 3 2 3 2 3 2
[0206] The composition of inventive examples let 2 is stable and has a good texture, providing the skin with good sensations.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) more than 2% by weight of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition; (ii) at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates and sulfates; (iii) at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer; and (iv) at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymer.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the C14-C30 fatty alcohol has an R—OH structure with R denoting a linear alkyl or alkenyl comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably R denoting a linear alkyl or alkenyl comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the C14-C30 fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, preferably, the C14-C30 fatty alcohol is selected from behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the C14-C30 fatty alcohol is present in an amount from 2.5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 3.5% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the composition comprises at least one C14-C20 fatty alcohol in an amount exceeding 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the C14-C30 fatty alcohol.
5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from fatty acid amide sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from fatty acid amide sulfonates of formula (I): [I] | Rr~- CN — CH.........(CH2)n ““ SO3” M* wherein: RI is a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain of 7 to 21 atoms of carbon, R2 is H or a methyl, R3 is H, COO M+, CH2COO M+ or COOH, n is 0 to 2, and M is chosen from sodium, potassium and ammonium, C12-C24 alkyl sulfates in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium caproyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium methyl palmitoyl taurate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, sodium C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, preferably selected from sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, sodium cetearyl sulfate and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the hydrophilic acrylic polymer is selected from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid polymers or one of their salts or esters, preferably the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from crosslinked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers, more preferably the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from carbomers.
8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the amphiphilic acrylic copolymer is selected from amphiphilic copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic portion containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms; preferably, the amphiphilic acrylic copolymer is selected from an optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and polyoxyethylene alkyl methacrylate, the alkyl containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of moles of oxyethylene units from 1 to 30 mol, preferably from 3 to 25 mol and more. Approximately from 5 to 25 mol, more preferably, the amphiphilic acrylic copolymer is chosen from the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / stearate-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, and one of their combinations.
9. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) 3.5% to 8% by weight of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition; (ii) 0.4% to 2% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates according to the formula (II) 0 R2 (II) Rf.........C — N........CH2-.......CH2— SO3 wherein Ri is a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain of 7 to 21 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 19 carbon atoms, R2 is H or methyl, and M is sodium or potassium, sodium C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, and mixtures thereof; (iii) 0.2 wt% to 2 wt% of at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer selected from the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid; and (iv) from 0.4 wt% to 2 wt% of at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymer selected from an optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and polyoxyethylene alkyl methacrylate, the alkyl containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of moles of oxyethylene motifs from 1 to 30 mol, preferably from 3 to 25 mol and more preferably from 5 to 25 mol.
10. Non-therapeutic method of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.