KERATINOUS MATERIAL CARE COMPOSITION

A composition of poly-fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters, and polyhydroxy acid addresses instability issues in cosmetic products, offering stable and effective skin radiance and softness.

FR3155138B3Active Publication Date: 2025-12-12LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2023014349
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-11-13
Filing Date
2023-12-18
Publication Date
2025-12-12
Estimated Expiration
2033-12-18

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions for improving skin radiance and softness are often unstable and do not meet consumer expectations.

Method used

A care composition comprising poly-fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters of polyol, and a second surfactant with HLB >10, along with polyhydroxy acid, providing stability and enhancing skin radiance and softness.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves stability and delivers effective radiance and softness to keratinous materials, particularly the skin, with transparency and optimal surfactant ratios.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

KERATIN CARE COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one first surfactant selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid esters, and combinations thereof; and (ii) at least 0.4% by weight of at least one second surfactant with an HLB > 10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iii) at least one polyhydroxy acid. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials, comprising the application of said composition to the keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: KERATINOUS MATERIAL CARE COMPOSITION technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for the care of keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Consumers worldwide are seeking new cosmetic products to improve the appearance of keratinous materials and in particular of the skin, especially by providing the skin with an optical cosmetic effect, such as softness and a good glow.

[0003] Cosmetic products that can bring the above-mentioned optical effects to the skin are known, for example, anti-aging water in the cosmetics industry, which is a technological permeation system combined with a gentle exfoliating motor to meet consumer needs in terms of radiance and softness.

[0004] However, some products for giving the skin radiance and softness are still not satisfactory. For example, some products are not stable.

[0005] It is desirable that such cosmetic compositions be stable.

[0006] Thus, there is always a need to formulate a care composition for keratinous materials, particularly of the skin, which can provide keratinous materials, particularly of the skin, with radiance and softness and which is stable. Summary of the invention

[0007] The present invention aims to develop a care composition for keratinous materials, in particular skin, which can provide keratinous materials, in particular skin, with radiance and softness and which is stable.

[0008] The present invention also aims to propose a non-therapeutic method for treating keratinous materials, particularly skin, with the above compositions.

[0009] The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate a care composition for keratinous materials, particularly of the skin, which can provide keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, with radiance and softness and which is stable.

[0010] Consequently, in a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising:

[0011] (i) at least one first surfactant selected from poly- fatty acid esters glycerol, polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters of polyol and one of their combinations; and

[0012] (ii) at least 0.4% by weight of at least one second surfactant with an HLB >10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0013] (iii) at least one polyhydroxy acid.

[0014] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention can be used to care for keratinous materials, in particular to give them shine and softness.

[0015] The inventors have further discovered that the composition according to the present invention is stable.

[0016] In certain embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is transparent.

[0017] As used here, the term "transparent" means that the turbidity of the composition is less than 10 NTU.

[0018] In a second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0019] Other advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0020] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used in this description have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by this invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by this invention, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0021] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0022] Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0023] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the features specifically mentioned, as well as any optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the features specifically mentioned is not present (that is to say "consisting of").

[0024] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is considered in particular according to the present invention.

[0025] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0026] The composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0027] (i) at least one first surfactant selected from poly- fatty acid esters glycerol, polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters of polyol and one of their combinations; and

[0028] (ii) at least 0.4% by weight of at least one second surfactant with an HLB > 10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0029] (iii) at least one polyhydroxy acid or one of its salts. First surfactants

[0030] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least a first surfactant selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid esters, and one of their combinations. Polyglycerol fatty acid esters

[0031] Preferably, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester (also called polyglycerol fatty acid ester, PGFE) is chosen from compounds of formula (I),

[0032] in which:

[0033] R represents a linear or branched C5-C30 alkyl or alkenyl;

[0034] n is an integer from 2 to 30.

[0035] Preferably, for the purposes of the present invention, in formula (I),

[0036] R represents a linear or branched C8-C28 alkyl or alkenyl, preferably a linear or branched Ci0-C22 alkyl or alkenyl;

[0037] n is an integer from 2 to 20, preferably from 4 to 10.

[0038] Examples of suitable PGFE surfactants are polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 dimyristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 dilaurate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 trimyristate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate or polyglyceryl-5 dioleate, and polyglyceryl-5 stearate. polyglyceryl-5, polyglyceryl-6 oleate and polyglyceryl-6 distearate.

[0039] In particular, the polyglycerol fatty acid esters suitable for the present invention are compounds selected from the group consisting of poly-glyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, poly-glyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, poly-glyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, poly-glyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate or one of their combinations.

[0040] More particularly, the polyglycerol fatty acid esters are selected from polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate and one of their combinations.

[0041] These compounds are commercially available. For example, we can cite the compounds sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the trade names: SunSoft A-12E or Sunsoft A-121E-C (Polyglyceryl-5 laurate), SunSoft A-14E (Polyglyceryl-5 myristate), Sunsoft Q-17F (Polyglyceryl-6 oleate), Sunsoft A-17E (Polyglyceryl-5 oleate), Sunsoft A-18E (Polyglyceryl-5 stearate), Sunsoft Q-10Y (Polyglyceryl-10 caprate), Sunsoft Q-12Y (Polyglyceryl-10 laurate), Sunsoft Q-14S (Polyglyceryl-10 myristate), Sunsoft Q-18Y (Polyglyceryl-10 stearate), by Nikkol under the trade name Nikkol Decaglyn 1-OV (Polyglyceryl-10 oleate), and by Lonza under the trade name Polyaldo. HGDS KFG (6-2-S) (polyglyceryl-6 distearate).

[0042] In certain particular preferred embodiments, polyglyceryl-5 laurate is used in the composition of the present invention.

[0043] Where appropriate, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyoxyalkylated esters of polyol fatty acids

[0044] As used here, a polyoxyalkylated fatty acid ester of a polyol is an ester of a polyol and at least one fatty acid in which the ester has at least one polyoxyalkylated fraction.

[0045] The polyoxyalkylene fraction may include oxyethylene motifs, oxypropylene motifs, oxybutylene motifs and mixtures thereof.

[0046] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylated fraction comprises oxyethylene units, more preferably 5 or more oxyethylene groups, and even more preferably 7 or more oxyethylene groups. It is also preferable that the polyoxyalkylated fraction does not comprise any oxypropylene or oxybutylene units. Thus, the polyoxyalkylated fatty acid ester of polyol can preferably be a poly- ester oxyethylenated fatty acid polyol.

[0047] The term "polyol" here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. A derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.

[0048] Preferably, the polyol is a C2-Ci2 polyol, more preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups and preferably 2 to 6 hydroxy groups.

[0049] The polyol can be natural or synthetic. The polyol can have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

[0050] The polyol can be selected from glycerin and its derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and 1,5-pentanediol.

[0051] It is preferable that the polyol be glycerin.

[0052] The fatty acid can be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.

[0053] Preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from among the saturated C8-C28 fatty acids, preferably the C8-C22 fatty acids and more preferably the C10-C22 fatty acids. Examples of saturated C8-C28 fatty acids include caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, and their structural isomers.

[0054] Examples of polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid esters include, but are not limited to, oxyethylened fatty acid esters of polyols comprising at least 5 oxyethylened groups, which may comprise up to 40 oxyethylened groups, in particular oxyethylened esters of a fatty acid comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms and better still 10 to 22 carbon atoms and glycerol, for example PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.

[0055] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid ester can be selected from POE (polyoxyethylenated) glyceryl fatty acid esters, preferably from the group consisting of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate and their combinations.

[0056] In certain particular preferred embodiments, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate is used in the composition of the present invention.

[0057] Where appropriate, the polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid ester is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Advantageously, the first surfactant is selected from polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acids, preferably selected from C8-C28 polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters of C2-C9 polyols, more preferably from C10-C22 polyoxyethylened fatty acid esters of glyceryl, more preferably selected from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl tri-isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate and their combinations.

[0059] Advantageously, the first surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Secondary surfactants

[0060] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least 0.4% by weight of at least one second surfactant with HLB > 10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] As used herein, the HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) is the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the surfactant molecule. This term is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System, A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection," published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the present invention can be determined via the Griffin method or the Davies method.

[0062] Preferably, the second surfactant is chosen from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl glucosides and glycolipids. Alkoxylated fatty alcohols

[0063] Alkoxylated fatty alcohols, which are ethers formed from the reaction of a fatty alcohol with an alkylene oxide, generally ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, for example, ethoxylated fatty alcohols which are adducts of fatty alcohols and polyethylene oxide.

[0064] Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is chosen from ethoxylated / propoxylated fatty alcohols, for example, ethoxylated / propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols, preferably ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols, more preferably C4-C22 fatty alcohols ethoxylated / propoxylated with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and 1 to 50 propylene oxide motifs.

[0065] Specific examples of ethoxylated / propoxylated fatty alcohols that may be suitable for use in the present invention include PPG-1 Beheneth-15, PPG-12 Capryleth-18, PPG-2 Ceteareth-9, PPG-4 Ceteareth-12, PPG-10 Ceteareth-20, PPG-1 Ceteth-1, PPG-1 Ceteth-5, PPG-1 Ceteth-10, PPG-1 Ceteth-20, PPG-2 Ceteth-1, PPG-2 Ceteth-5, PPG-2 Ceteth-10, PPG-2 Ceteth-20, PPG-4 Ceteth-1, PPG-4 Ceteth-5, PPG-4 Ceteth-10, PPG-4 Ceteth-20, PPG-5-Cététh-20, PPG-8-Cététh-l, PPG-8-Cététh-2, PPG-8-Cététh-5, PPG-8-Cététh-10, PPG-8-Cététh-20, PPG-2 C12-13 Paréth-8, PPG-2 C12-15 Paréth-6, PPG-4 C13-15 Pareth-15, PPG-5 C9-15 Pareth-6, PPG-6 C9-11 Pareth-5, PPG-6 C12-15 Pareth-12, PPG-6 C12-18 Pareth-11, PPG-3 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-4 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-9, PPG-1-Deceth-6, PPG-2-Deceth-3, PPG-2-Deceth-5, PPG-2-Deceth-7, PPG-2-Deceth-10, PPG-2-Deceth-12, PPG-2-Deceth-15, PPG-2-Deceth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-30, PPG-2-Deceth-40, PPG-2-Deceth-50,PPG-2-Deceth-60, PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-4-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-14-Deceth-6, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-12, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-20, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-30, PPG-13-DecyltetraDeceth-24, PPG-20-DecyltetraDeceth-10, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-4, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-6, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-8, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-9, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-10 PPG-2-IsoDéceth-12, PPG-2-IsoDéceth-18, PPG-2-IsoDéceth-25, PPG-4-IsoDéceth-10, PPG-12-Lanéth-50, PPG-2-Lauréth-5, PPG-2-Lauréth-8, PPG-2-Lauréth-12, PPG-3-Lauréth-8, PPG-3-Lauréth-9, PPG-3-Lauréth-10, PPG-3-Lauréth-12, PPG-4 Lauréth-2, PPG-4 Lauréth-5, PPG-4 Lauréth-7, PPG-4-Lauréth-15, PPG-5-Lauréth-5, PPG-6-Lauréth-3, PPG-25-Lauréth-25, PPG-7 Lauryl Ether, PPG-3-Myreth-3, PPG-3-Myreth-11, PPG-20-PEG-20 Hydrogenated Lanolin, PPG-2-PEG-11 Hydrogenated Lauryl Alcohol Ether, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-65 Lanolin Oil, PPG-40-PEG-60 Lanolin Oil, PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether, PPG-3-PEG-6 Oleyl Ether,PPG-23-Steareth-34, PPG-30 Steareth-4, PPG-34-Steareth-3, PPG-38 Steareth-6, PPG-1 TriDeceth-6, PPG-4 TriDeceth-6 and PPG-6 TriDeceth-8.

[0066] More preferably, the second surfactant is chosen from PPG-1 Beheneth-15, PPG-12 Capryleth-18, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, PPG-4-Ceteareth-12, PPG-10-Ceteareth-20, PPG-1-Ceteareth-1, PPG-1-Ceteareth-5, PPG-1-Ceteareth-10, PPG-1-Ceteareth-20, PPG-2-Ceteareth-1, PPG-2-Ceteareth-5, PPG-2-Ceteareth-10, PPG-2-Ceteareth-20, PPG-4-Ceteareth-1, PPG-4-Ceteareth-5, PPG-4-Ceteareth-10, PPG-4-Ceteareth-20, PPG-5-Ceteareth-20, PPG-8-Ceteth-1, PPG-8-Ceteth-2, PPG-8-Ceteth-5, PPG-8-Ceteth-10, PPG-8-Ceteth-20, PPG-2 C12-13 Pareth-8, PPG-2 C12-15 Pareth-6, PPG-4 C13-15 Pareth-15, PPG-5 C9-15 Pareth-6, PPG-1-Deceth-6, PPG-2-Deceth-3, PPG-2-Deceth-5, PPG- 2-Deceth-7, PPG-2-Deceth-10, PPG-2-Deceth-12, PPG-2-Deceth-15, PPG-2-Deceth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-30, PPG-2-Deceth-40, PPG-2-Deceth-50, PPG-2-Deceth-60, PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-4-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-14-Deceth-6, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-12, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-20, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-30, PPG-13-DecyltetraDeceth-24, PPG-20-DecyltetraDeceth-10, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-4, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-6, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-8, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-9, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-10, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-12, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-18, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-25, PPG-4-IsoDeceth-10, PPG-12-Laneth-50, PPG-2-Laureth-5, PPG-2-Laureth-8, PPG-2-Laureth-12, PPG-3-Laureth-8, PPG-3-Laureth-9, PPG-3-Laureth-10, PPG-3-Laureth-12, PPG-4-Laureth-2, PPG-4 Laureth-5, PPG-4 Laureth-7, PPG-4-Laureth-15, PPG-5-Laureth-5, PPG-6-Laureth-3, PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-7 Lauryl Ether, PPG-3-Myreth-3, PPG-3-Myreth-ll, PPG-23-Steareth-34, PPG-30 Steareth-4, PPG-34-Steareth-3, PPG-38 Steareth-6, PPG-1 TriDeceth-6, PPG-4 TriDeceth-6,PPG-26-Buteth-26 and PPG-6 TriDeceth-8.

[0067] In certain particular preferred embodiments, PPG-5-Ceteth-20 is used in the composition of the present invention.

[0068] Where appropriate, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.4% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkyl glycoside

[0069] Alkyl glycoside is a compound of formula (A)

[0070] RrO- (R2Q)t- (G)v (A)

[0071] in which R, represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms or an alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, t denotes a value from 0 to 10 and v denotes a value from 1 to 15.

[0072] Preferably, the alkyl glycoside is a C8-C24 alkyl glycoside.

[0073] More preferably, the alkyl glycoside is a C8-C22 alkyl glycoside.

[0074] More preferably, the alkyl glycoside is lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, sucrose glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside and one of their combinations.

[0075] Where appropriate, the alkyl glycoside is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.4% by weight to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 1.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Glycolipids

[0076] Preferably, the glycolipid is chosen from rhamnolipids, glucolipids and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Rhamnolipids can be represented by the general formula (I):

[0078] where

[0079] a is worth 1 or 2,

[0080] b is equal to 1 or 2,

[0081] n is worth from 4 to 10, preferably 6,

[0082] R1 is H or a cation, preferably H or a monovalent solubilizing cation,

[0083] R2 is H or the group o CH3(CH?>™CH = CH ” x read *

[0084] preferably H,

[0085] m is worth from 4 to 10, and

[0086] the values ​​of m and n do not necessarily have to be the same at each occurrence.

[0087] Glycolipids can be represented by the general formula (II):

[0088] where

[0089] R1 is H or a cation,

[0090] p is worth from 1 to 4; and

[0091] q is worth from 4 to 10, preferably 6.

[0092] Where appropriate, the glycolipid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.4% by weight to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 1.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] Preferably, the second surfactant is chosen from ethoxylated / propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols, C8-24 alkyl glycosides, and one of their combinations; preference chosen from among ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and 1 to 50 propylene oxide motifs, the C8-22 alkyl glycoside and one of their combinations; more preferentially chosen from PPG-1 Beheneth-15, PPG-12 Capryleth-18, PPG-2 Ceteareth-9, PPG-4 Ceteareth-12, PPG-10 Ceteareth-20, PPG-1 Ceteareth-1, PPG-1 Ceteareth-5, PPG-1 Ceteareth-10, PPG-1 Ceteareth-20, PPG-2 Ceteareth-1, PPG-2 Ceteareth-5, PPG-2 Ceteareth-10, PPG-2 Ceteareth-20, PPG-4 Ceteareth-1, PPG-4 Ceteareth-5, PPG-4 Ceteareth-10, PPG-4 Ceteareth-20, PPG-5 Ceteareth-20, PPG-8 Ceteareth-1, PPG-8 Ceteareth-2, PPG-8-Ceteth-5, PPG-8-Ceteth-10, PPG-8-Ceteth-20, PPG-2 C12-13 Pareth-8, PPG-2 C12-15 Pareth-6, PPG-4 C13-15 Pareth-15, PPG-5 C9-15 Pareth-6, PPG-1-Deceth-6, PPG-2-Deceth-3, PPG-2-Deceth-5, PPG-2-Deceth-7, PPG-2-Deceth-10, PPG-2-Deceth-12, PPG-2-Deceth-15, PPG-2-Deceth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-30, PPG-2-Deceth-40, PPG-2-Deceth-50, PPG-2-Deceth-60 PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-4-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9,PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-14-Deceth-6, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-12, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-20, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-30, PPG-13-DecyltetraDeceth-24, PPG-20-DecyltetraDeceth-10, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-4, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-6, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-8, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-9, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-10, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-12, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-18, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-25, PPG-4-IsoDeceth-10, PPG-12-Laneth-50, PPG-2-Lauréth-5, PPG-2-Lauréth-8, PPG-2-Lauréth-12, PPG-3-Lauréth-8, PPG-3-Lauréth-9, PPG-3-Lauréth-10, PPG-3-Lauréth-12, PPG-4 Lauréth-2, PPG-4 Lauréth-5, PPG-4 Lauréth-7, PPG-4-Laureth-15, PPG-5-Laureth-5, PPG-6-Laureth-3, PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-7 Lauryl Ether, PPG-3-Myreth-3, PPG-3-Myreth-ll, PPG-23-Steareth-34, PPG-30 Steareth-4, PPG-34-Steareth-3, PPG-38 Steareth-6, PPG-1 TriDeceth-6, PPG-4 TriDeceth-6, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-6 TriDeceth-8, lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, sucrose laurate, caprylyl / capryl glucoside and any combination thereof.

[0094] More preferably, the second surfactant is selected from ethoxylated / propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols; preferably selected from ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and 1 to 50 propylene oxide motifs; more preferably selected from PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-26-Buteth-26 and one of their combinations.

[0095] Advantageously, the second surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.4% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably 0.4% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] Preferably, the weight ratio of the first surfactant to the second surfactant is from 0.4 to 2, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5. Polyhydroxy acids

[0097] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyhydroxy acid.

[0098] The term "polyhydroxy acid" here refers to an organic compound that has at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxyl groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and a single carboxyl group is more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but 2 to 10 are preferable, and 2 to 6 are more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 are preferable, and 3 to 8 are more preferable.

[0099] The above organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be chosen from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids and aromatic polyhydroxy acids. It is preferable that the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid be chosen from sugar acids.

[0100] Examples of polyhydroxy acids include dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0101] It is preferable for the polyhydroxy acid to be in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring of the polyhydroxy acid in the form of a lactone can be saturated. Examples of polyhydroxy acids include gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.

[0102] Preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from lactones with 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups.

[0103] Advantageously, the polyhydroxyacid is chosen from lactones with 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0104] It is more preferable that the polyhydroxy acid be gluconolactone, which corresponds to the following structure.

[0105] Advantageously, the polyhydroxyacid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0106] The composition of the present invention may include an aqueous phase.

[0107] Said aqueous phase comprises water.

[0108] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably from 80% by weight to 94% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] Optionally, the aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature at 25 °C) selected from ethanol, glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and mixtures thereof, so as to provide a hydrating effect.

[0110] Where appropriate, the water-miscible organic solvent is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0111] The composition of the present invention may include an active ingredient additional cosmetic item.

[0112] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include moisturizing agents; vitamins and their derivatives; firming agents; agents acting on microcirculation; additional exfoliating agents and mixtures thereof.

[0113] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additional cosmetic active ingredient based on the end use of the composition according to the present invention in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0114] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, other surfactants, preservatives, perfumes and mixtures thereof.

[0115] A person skilled in the art can choose the nature and quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0116] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition comprising, in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0117] (i) from 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one first surfactant selected from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl tri-isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, their combinations;

[0118] (ii) from 0.4% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one second surfactant selected from ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and 1 to 50 propylene oxide units; and

[0119] (ii) of 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of gluconolactone. pharmaceutical form and process

[0120] In certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention may be in the form of a homogeneous hydric system.

[0121] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin.

[0122] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials, in particular skin, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention on keratinous materials, in particular on the skin. EXAMPLES

[0123] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0124] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0125] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier PPG-5-cététh-20 GENAPOL® EP 6205 MB CLARIANT Glyceryl cocoate PEG-7 CETIOL® HE BASF Gluconolactone GLUCONO-DELTA-LACTONE F5010 PERSONAL CAR JUNGBUNZLAUER Salicylic acid AMIPRESERVETM ALBAN MULLER (CRODA)

[0126] Inventive Examples 1 and 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3

[0127] The compositions of inventive examples (El) 1 to 3 and comparative examples (EC) 1 to 3 were prepared on the basis of the quantities provided in Table 2. The quantities are given as % by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] [Tables2] Components El. 1 EL 2 EI.3 EC.1 EC. 2 EC.3 PPG-5-ceteth-20 0.4 0.5 1.0 0 0.1 0.2 Glyceryl cocoate PEG-7 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Gluconolactone 2 2 2 2 2 2 Lactic acid 3 3 3 3 3 3 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Pentylene glycol 3 3 3 3 3 3 Sodium hydroxide pH = pH = pH = pH = pH = pH = 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Water QslOO QslOO QslOO QslOO QslOO QslOO

[0129] The compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0130] The composition of comparative examples 1 to 3 does not include at least 0.4% by weight of at least one second surfactant with HLB >10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0131] Preparation process:

[0132] The compositions listed above were prepared in the following manner, in taking as an example the composition of inventive example 1:

[0133] 1) mix PPG-5-ceteth-20, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, gluconolactone, lactic acid, salicylic acid and pentylene glycol in water,

[0134] 2) neutralize with sodium hydroxide and shake well until a uniform composition. Assessment Turbidity

[0135] Whether a composition is transparent or not is determined by its turbidity as determined using a turbidimeter (Model: HACH 2100AN).

[0136] When the turbidity of a composition is not greater than 10 NTU, the composition is classified as transparent. Stability

[0137] The stability of a test composition was evaluated as follows:

[0138] The composition was introduced into a cosmetic bottle, then placed in an oven at 45 °C for 2 months.

[0139] It was then checked whether it exhibited phase separation.

[0140] In the absence of phase separation during the test, the composition is considered as stable.

[0141] In the presence of phase separation during the test, the composition is considered unstable.

[0142] The transparency and stability of the compositions of inventive examples (El) 1 to 3 and comparative examples (EC) 1 to 3 have been summarized in Table 3.

[0143] [Tables3] EL 1 EI.2 EI.3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC.3 Turbidity 0.5 0.5 0.5 99.4 27.4 11.6 Transparent Yes Yes Yes No No No Stability Stable Stable Stable Unstable Unstable

[0144] It can be seen that the composition of the present invention is stable.

[0145] Through a consumer trial, it was also found that the com The position of the present invention can bring radiance and softness to the skin.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one first surfactant selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid esters and one of their combinations; and (ii) at least 0.4% by weight of at least one second surfactant with an HLB > 10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iii) at least one polyhydroxy acid.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the first surfactant is selected from polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters of polyol, preferably selected from C8-C28 polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters of C2-C9 polyol, more preferably from C10-C22 polyoxyethylened fatty acid esters of glyceryl, even more preferably selected from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate and combinations thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the second surfactant is selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohol, alkyl glycoside, glycolipid and a combination thereof, preferably the second surfactant is selected from ethoxylated / propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols, C8-24 alkyl glycoside and a combination thereof; more preferably, the second surfactant is selected from ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and 1 to 50 propylene oxide motifs, C8-22 alkyl glycoside and a combination thereof;more preferentially chosen from PPG-1 Beheneth-15, PPG-12 Capryleth-18, PPG-2 Ceteareth-9, PPG-4 Ceteareth-12, PPG-10 Ceteareth-20, PPG-1 Ceteth-1, PPG-1 Ceteareth-5, PPG-1 Ceteareth-10, PPG-1 Ceteareth-20, PPG-2 Ceteareth-1, PPG-2 Ceteareth-5, PPG-2 Ceteareth-10, PPG-2 Ceteareth-20, PPG-4 Ceteareth-1, PPG-4 Ceteareth-5, PPG-4 Ceteareth-10, PPG-4 Ceteareth-20, PPG-5 Ceteareth-20, PPG-8 Ceteareth-1, PPG-8 Ceteareth-2, PPG-8-Cététh-5, PPG-8-Cététh-10, PPG-8-Cététh-20, PPG-2 C12-13 Paréth-8, PPG-2 C12-15 Paréth-6, PPG-4 C13-15 Paréth-15, PPG-5 C9-15 Paréth-6, PPG-l-Déceth-6, PPG-2-Deceth-3, PPG-2-Deceth-5, PPG-2-Deceth-7, PPG-; 2-Deceth-10, PPG-2-Deceth-12, PPG-2-Deceth-15, PPG-2-Deceth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-30, PPG-2-Deceth-40, PPG-2-Deceth-50, PPG-2-Deceth-60, PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-4-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-14-Deceth-6, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-12, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-20, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-30, PPG-13-DecyltetraDeceth-24, PPG-20-DecyltetraDeceth-10, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-4, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-6, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-8, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-9, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-10, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-12, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-18, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-25, PPG-4-IsoDeceth-10, PPG-12-Laneth-50, PPG-2-Laureth-5, PPG-2-Laureth-8, PPG-2-Laureth-12, PPG-3-Laureth-8, PPG-3-Laureth-9, PPG-3-Laureth-10, PPG-3-Laureth-12, PPG-4-Laureth-2, PPG-4 Laureth-5, PPG-4 Laureth-7, PPG-4-Laureth-15, PPG-5-Laureth-5, PPG-6-Laureth-3, PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-7 Lauryl Ether, PPG-3-Myreth-3, PPG-3-Myreth-ll, PPG-23-Steareth-34, PPG-30 Steareth-4, PPG-34-Steareth-3, PPG-38 Steareth-6, PPG-1 TriDeceth-6, PPG-4 TriDeceth-6, PPG-26-Butéth-26,PPG-6 TriDeceth-8, lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, sucrose laurate, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, and any combination thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the second surfactant is selected from ethoxylated / propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols; preferably selected from ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and 1 to 50 propylene oxide motifs; more preferably selected from PPG-4-Ceth-20, PPG-5-Ceth-20, PPG-26-Buteth-26 and any combination thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the weight ratio of the first surfactant to the second surfactant is from 0.4 to 2, preferably from 0.5 to 1.

5.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the polyhydroxy acid is selected from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids and aromatic polyhydroxy acids, preferably selected from lactones with 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and 3 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is gluco-nolactone.

7. Composition according to claim 1, comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:

8.

9.

10. (i) from 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one first surfactant selected from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl tri-isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, combinations thereof; (ii) 0.4% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one second surfactant selected from ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and 1 to 50 propylene oxide motifs; and (ii) 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of gluconolactone. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition is in the form of a homogeneous hydric system. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition is transparent. Non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.