LEAVE-IN KERATIN CARE FORMULA
A leave-on cosmetic composition using non-ionic surfactants and polyhydroxy acids addresses the issues of stickiness and crystallization, providing effective skin radiance and suppleness without these drawbacks.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023014014
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-11-13
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-12
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-19
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-12-12
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic products that aim to provide skin radiance and suppleness often result in an unpleasant sticky sensation or form crystallization particles, failing to meet consumer expectations for a non-sticky and non-crystallizing composition.
A leave-on composition comprising non-ionic surfactants such as polyglycerol fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid esters, and alkoxylated fatty alcohols, combined with polyhydroxy acids and alkanolamines, formulated to provide skin with radiance and suppleness without stickiness or crystallization.
The composition effectively delivers skin radiance and suppleness while remaining non-sticky and non-crystallizing, enhancing user experience and product stability.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: LEAVE-IN COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a leave-on composition for the care of keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Consumers worldwide are seeking new cosmetic products to improve the appearance of keratinous materials and in particular of the skin, especially by providing the skin with an optical cosmetic effect, such as suppleness and a good glow.
[0003] Cosmetic products that can bring the above-mentioned optical effects to the skin are known, for example, anti-aging water in the cosmetics industry, which is a technological permeation system combined with a gentle exfoliating motor to meet consumer needs in terms of radiance and suppleness.
[0004] However, some products designed to give skin radiance and suppleness are still not satisfactory. For example, some products are sticky, which gives consumers an unpleasant sensation.
[0005] Some products have hard crystallization particles on the neck.
[0006] It is desired that the cosmetic composition to provide the skin with radiance and suppleness should not be too sticky, or even non-sticky.
[0007] It is also desirable that such cosmetic compositions do not exhibit crystallization particles after a long period of storage.
[0008] Thus, there is always a need to formulate a care composition for keratinous materials, particularly of the skin, which can provide keratinous materials, particularly of the skin, with radiance and suppleness, and is without crystallization and not too sticky, or even non-sticky. Summary of the invention
[0009] The present invention aims to develop a keratinous material care composition which can provide keratinous materials, and in particular skin, with radiance and suppleness, and is non-crystallising and not too sticky, or even non-sticky.
[0010] The present invention also aims to provide a non-therapeutic method for treating keratinous materials, particularly skin, with the com- positions above.
[0011] The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate a keratinous material care composition which can give the skin radiance and suppleness, and is without crystallization and not too sticky, or even non-sticky.
[0012] Consequently, in a first aspect, the present invention proposes a leave-on composition, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising:
[0013] (i) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from poly- fatty acid esters glycerol, polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid esters, alkoxylated fatty alcohols and one of their combinations;
[0014] (ii) at least one polyhydroxy acid; and
[0015] (iii) at least one alkanolamine.
[0016] The composition according to the present invention can be used to care for keratinous materials, in particular, to provide keratinous materials with shine and softness, due to the presence of at least one polyhydroxy acid.
[0017] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention is non-crystallising and not too sticky.
[0018] As used here, the term "sticky" means a property that gives a sticky feeling to the skin.
[0019] In a second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.
[0020] Other advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and examples that follow. Brief description of the drawings
[0021] Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which:
[0022] [Fig. 1] [Fig. 1] shows the stickiness of the compositions of inventive example 1 and comparative example 1 as determined by a texture analyzer. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0023] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used in the description have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0024] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to
[0025] Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0026] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").
[0027] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values and parameters described in the description are approximate values which, where appropriate, may be changed according to the desired purpose.
[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is considered in particular according to the present invention.
[0029] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.
[0030] The composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0031] (i) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from poly- fatty acid esters glycerol, polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid esters, alkoxylated fatty alcohols and one of their combinations;
[0032] (ii) at least one polyhydroxy acid; and
[0033] (iii) at least one alkanolamine. Non-ionic surfactants
[0034] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid esters, alkoxylated fatty alcohols and one of their combinations. Polyglycerol fatty acid esters
[0035] Preferably, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester (also called PGFE fatty acid polyglycerol ester) is chosen from compounds of formula (I), O₂⁻ He r
[0036] in which:
[0037] R represents a linear or branched C5-C30 alkyl or alkenyl;
[0038] n is an integer from 2 to 30.
[0039] Preferably, within the meaning of the present invention, in formula (I),
[0040] R represents a linear or branched C8-C28 alkyl or alkenyl, preferably a alkyl or alkenyl in linear or branched Ci0-C22;
[0041] n is an integer from 2 to 20, preferably from 4 to 10.
[0042] Examples of suitable PGFE surfactants are polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 dimyristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 dilaurate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 trimyristate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate or polyglyceryl-5 dioleate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate and polyglyceryl-6 distearate.
[0043] In particular, the polyglycerol fatty acid esters suitable for the present invention are compounds selected from the group consisting of poly-glyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, poly-glyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, poly-glyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, poly-glyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate or any combination thereof.
[0044] More specifically, the polyglycerol fatty acid esters are selected from polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate and one of their combinations.
[0045] These compounds are commercially available. For example, we can cite the compounds sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the trade names: SunSoft A-12E or Sunsoft A-121E-C (Polyglyceryl-5 laurate), SunSoft A-14E (Polyglyceryl-5 myristate), Sunsoft Q-17F (Polyglyceryl-6 oleate), Sunsoft A-17E (Polyglyceryl-5 oleate), Sunsoft A-18E (Polyglyceryl-5 stearate), Sunsoft Q-10Y (Polyglyceryl-10 caprate), Sunsoft Q-12Y (Polyglyceryl-10 laurate), Sunsoft Q-14S (Polyglyceryl-10 myristate), Sunsoft Q-18Y (Polyglyceryl-10 stearate), by Nikkol under the trade name Nikkol Decaglyn 1-OV (Polyglyceryl-10 oleate), and by Lonza under the trade name Polyaldo. HGDS KFG (6-2-S) (polyglyceryl-6 distearate).
[0046] In certain particularly preferred embodiments, poly-glyceryl-5 laurate is used in the composition of the present invention.
[0047] Where applicable, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid esters
[0048] As used herein, a polyoxyalkylene polyol fatty acid ester is an ester of a polyol and at least one fatty acid in which the ester has at least one polyoxyalkylene fraction.
[0049] The polyoxyalkylene fraction may include oxyethylene motifs, oxypropylene motifs, oxybutylene motifs and mixtures thereof.
[0050] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylated fraction comprises oxyethylene units, more preferably five or more oxyethylene groups, and even more preferably, seven or more oxyethylene groups. It is also preferable that the polyoxyalkylated fraction does not comprise any oxypropylene or oxybutylene units. Thus, the polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid ester can preferably be a polyoxyethylated polyol fatty acid ester.
[0051] The term "polyol" here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. A derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more hydroxy groups thereof have been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.
[0052] Preferably, the polyol can be a C2-Ci2 polyol, more preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups and preferably 2 to 6 hydroxy groups.
[0053] The polyol can be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol can have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
[0054] The polyol can be selected from glycerin and its derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and 1,5-pentanediol.
[0055] It is preferable that the polyol be glycerin.
[0056] The fatty acid can be chosen from linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated.
[0057] Preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from among saturated C8-C28 fatty acids, preferably C8-C22 fatty acids, and more preferably C10-C22 fatty acids. Examples of saturated C8-C28 fatty acids include caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid and their structural isomers.
[0058] Examples of polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid esters include, but are not limited to, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of polyols comprising at least 5 oxyethylene groups, which may comprise up to 40 oxyethylene groups, in particular oxyethylenated esters of a fatty acid comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms and better still 10 to 22 carbon atoms and glycerol, for example PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.
[0059] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid ester is selected from among the POE (polyoxyethylenated) glyceryl fatty acid esters, preferably from the group consisting of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate and mixtures thereof.
[0060] In certain particular preferred embodiments, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate is used in the composition of the present invention.
[0061] Where appropriate, the polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid ester is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkoxylated fatty alcohols
[0062] Alkoxylated fatty alcohols, which are ethers formed from the reaction of a fatty alcohol with an alkylene oxide, generally ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, for example, ethoxylated fatty alcohols which are adducts of fatty alcohols and polyethylene oxide.
[0063] Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is chosen from ethoxylated / propoxylated fatty alcohols, for example, ethoxylated / propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols, preferably ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols, more preferably ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and 1 to 50 propylene oxide motifs.
[0064] Specific examples of ethoxylated / propoxylated fatty alcohols that may be suitable for use in the present invention include PPG-1 Beheneth-15, PPG-12 Capryleth-18, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, PPG-4-Ceteareth-12, PPG-10-Ceteareth-20, PPG-1-Ceteth-1, PPG-1-Ceteareth-5, PPG-1-Ceteareth-10, PPG-1-Ceteareth-20, PPG-2-Ceteareth-1, PPG-2-Ceteareth-5, PPG-2-Ceteareth-10, PPG-2-Ceteareth-20, PPG-4-Ceteareth-1, PPG-4-Ceteareth-5, PPG-4-Ceteareth-10, PPG-4-Ceteareth-20, PPG-5-Cététh-20, PPG-8-Cététh-l, PPG-8-Cététh-2, PPG-8-Cététh-5, PPG-8-Cététh-10, PPG-8-Cététh-20, PPG-2 C12-13 Pareth-8, PPG-2 C12-15 Pareth-6, PPG-4 C13-15 Pareth-15, PPG-5 C9-15 Pareth-6, PPG-6 C9-11 Pareth-5, PPG-6 C12-15 Pareth-12, PPG-6 C12-18 Pareth-11, PPG-3 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-4 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-9, PPG-l-Déceth-6, PPG-2-Déceth-3, PPG-2-Déceth-5, PPG-2-Déceth-7, PPG-2-Déceth-10, PPG-2G-Deceth-12, PPG-2-Deceth-15, PPG-2-Deceth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-30, PPG-2-Deceth-40, PPG-2-Deceth-50, PPG-2-Deceth-60, PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-4-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-14-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-12, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-20, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-20-Decyltetradeceth-10, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-2-Isodeceth-4, PPG-2-Isodeceth-6, PPG-2-Isodeceth-8, PPG-2-Isodeceth-9, PPG-2-Isodeceth-10, PPG-2-Isodeceth-12, PPG-2-Isodeceth-18, PPG-2-Isodeceth-25, PPG-4-Isodeceth-10, PPG-12-Laneth-50, PPG-2-Laureth-5, PPG-2-Laureth-8, PPG-2-Laureth-12, PPG-3-Laureth-8, PPG-3-Laureth-9,PPG-3-Laureth-10, PPG-3-Laureth-12, PPG-4 Laureth-2, PPG-4 Laureth-5, PPG-4 Laureth-7, PPG-4-Laureth-15, PPG-5-Laureth-5, PPG-6-Laureth-3, PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-7 Lauryl Ether, PPG-3-Myreth-3, PPG-3-Myreth-11, PPG-20-PEG-20 Hydrogenated Lanolin, PPG-2-PEG-11 Hydrogenated Lauryl Alcohol Ether, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-65 Lanolin Oil, PPG-40-PEG-60 Lanolin Oil, PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether, PPG-3-PEG-6 Oleyl ether, PPG-23-Steareth-34, PPG-30-Steareth-4, PPG-34-Steareth-3, PPG-38-Steareth-6, PPG-1-Trideceth-6, PPG-4-Trideceth-6 and PPG-6-Trideceth-8.
[0065] In certain particular preferred embodiments, PPG-5-Ceteth-20 is used in the composition of the present invention.
[0066] Where appropriate, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0067] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is selected from C8-C28 fatty acid esters of polyglycerol with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 20 glycerol motifs, C8-C28 fatty acid esters of C2-C9 polyol polyoxyalkylated, C3-28 alkoxylated fatty alcohols and one of their combinations; preferably selected from C10-C22 polyglycerol fatty acid esters with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 4 to 10 glycerol units, polyoxyethylenated C10-C22 glycerol fatty acid esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and 1 to 50 propylene oxide units, and a combination thereof, more preferably selected from polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, stearate of glyceryl PEG-20, glyceryl isostearate PEG-20, PEG-5-ceteth-20, PPG-4-ceteth-20, PPG-26-BUTETH-26 and one of their combinations.
[0068] In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises a nonionic surfactant selected from C8-C28 polyoxyalkylated C2-C9 polyol fatty acid esters, alkoxylated C8-28 fatty alcohols and one of their combinations; more preferably selected from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5-ceteth-20, PPG-4-ceteth-20, one of their combinations.
[0069] In certain particularly preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises PEG-5-ceteth-20 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.
[0070] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.3% by weight to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyhydroxy acids
[0071] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyhydroxy acid.
[0072] The term "polyhydroxy acid" here means an organic compound having at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxyl groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and a single carboxyl group is more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but 2 to 10 are preferable, and 2 to 6 are more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 are preferable, and 3 to 8 are more preferable.
[0073] The above organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be chosen from aliphatic and aromatic polyhydroxy acids. Preferably, the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid may be chosen from sugar acids.
[0074] Examples of polyhydroxy acids include dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0075] It is preferable for the polyhydroxy acid to be in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring of the polyhydroxy acid in the form of a lactone can be saturated. Examples of polyhydroxy acids include gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.
[0076] Preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from lactones with 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups.
[0077] Advantageously, the polyhydroxyacid is chosen from lactones with 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0078] It is more preferable that the polyhydroxy acid be gluconolactone, which corresponds to the following structure. OH
[0079] Advantageously, the polyhydroxy acid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.0% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkanolamines
[0080] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one alkanolamine.
[0081] The term "alkanolamine" means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0082] In the context of the present invention, alkanolamine is used as a pH corrector to correct the pH value of the composition; preferably, to correct the pH value to 3.5-9.0.
[0083] Preferably, the alkanolamine is chosen from among alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or trialcanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, and one of their combinations.
[0084] Among the alkanolamine-type compounds that may be mentioned are, but not limited to: monoethanolamine (also known as MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (aminomethyl propanol or AMP), tris(hydroxymethylarnino)methane, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, tromethamine, a mixture of theirs, preferably triethanolamine and / or aminomethyl propanol and a mixture of theirs.
[0085] Other examples include, but are not limited to: 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
[0086] More preferably, the alkanolamine is chosen from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, tromethamine, mono-noisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine and one of their combinations, and even more preferably chosen from triethanolamine, tromethamine, aminomethyl propanol and one of their combinations. Aqueous phase
[0087] The composition of the present invention may include an aqueous phase.
[0088] Said aqueous phase comprises water.
[0089] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably from 80% by weight to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0090] Optionally, the aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature at 25 °C) selected from ethanol, glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and mixtures thereof, so as to provide a hydrating effect.
[0091] Where appropriate, the water-miscible organic solvent is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional cosmetic active ingredients
[0092] The composition of the present invention may include an additional cosmetic active ingredient.
[0093] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include moisturizing agents; vitamins and their derivatives; firming agents; agents acting on microcirculation; additional exfoliating agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0094] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the ingredient additional cosmetic active ingredient based on the end use of the composition according to the present invention such that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition. Additional adjuvants or additives
[0095] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, other surfactants, preservatives, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.
[0096] A person skilled in the art can choose the nature and quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0097] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a no-rinse composition comprising, in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0098] (i) from 0.5% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one selected nonionic surfactant among PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5-ceteth-20, PPG-4-ceteth-20, and any combination thereof;
[0099] (ii) of 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of gluconolactone; and
[0100] (iii) at least one alkanolamine selected from aminomethyl propanol, triethanolamine, tromethamine, or one of their combinations,
[0101] wherein the composition has a pH value of 3.5 to 9.0. pharmaceutical form and process
[0102] In certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention may be in the form of a homogeneous hydric system.
[0103] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials, in particular skin.
[0104] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method of skin care, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention on keratinous materials, in particular on the skin. EXAMPLES
[0105] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
[0106] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0107] [Tables] INCI name Trade name Supplier Aminomethyl propanol AMP ULTRATM PC 1000, NEUTRALIZING AMINE ANGUS Triethanolamine TRIETANOLAMINA 99 OXITENO Tromethamine TRIS AMINOTM ULTRA PC, TROMETHAMINE ANGUS PPG-5-ceteth-20 GENAPOL® EP 6205 MB CLARIANT PEG-7glyceryl cocoate CETIOL® HE BASF Gluconolactone GLUCONO-DELTA-LACT ONE F5010 PERSONAL CAR JUNGBUNZLAUER
[0108] Inventive examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 and 2
[0109] The compositions of inventive examples (El) 1 to 3 and comparative examples (EC) 1 and 2 were prepared on the basis of the quantities given in Table 2. The quantities are given as % by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0110] [Tableaux2] Components El. 1 EI.2 EI.3 EC. 1 EC.2 Sodium Hydroxide - - - 1.8 - Potassium Hydroxide - - - - 2.1 Aminomethyl Propanol 3.9 - - - - Triethanolamine - 6.4 - - - Tromethamine - - 5.4 - - PPG-5-ceteth-20 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Glyceryl Cocoate PEG-7 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Gluconolactone 2 2 2 2 2 Salicylic Acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Pentylene Glycol 3 3 3 3 3 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 pH 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5
[0111] The compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 are compositions according to the present invention.
[0112] The composition of comparative example 1 includes sodium hydroxide rather than an alkanolamine.
[0113] The composition of comparative example 2 includes potassium hydroxide rather than an alkanolamine.
[0114] Preparation process:
[0115] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking as an example the composition of inventive example 1:
[0116] 1) mix PPG-5-ceteth-20, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, gluconolactone, salicylic acid and pentylene glycol in water, and
[0117] 2) neutralize with aminomethyl propanol until the pH is equal to 4.5 and Shake well until a uniform composition is obtained. Assessment
[0118] The crystallization and stickiness of the compositions obtained above were evaluated.
[0119] The crystallization of a test composition was evaluated as follows:
[0120] The composition was contained in a cosmetic bottle, the cap of the cosmetic bottle was removed and the bottle was turned upside down as in a use experiment.
[0121] Then the stopper was replaced up to 7 to 14 days later to reopen it and check the condition of the neck to see if there were any hard crystallization particles.
[0122] The crystallization of the compositions of inventive examples (El) 1 to 3 and comparative examples (EC) 1 and 2 has been summarized in Table 3.
[0123] [Tables3] EL 1 EI.2 EI.3 EC. 1 EC.2 Crystallization No No No Yes Yes
[0124] Sticky character:
[0125] The stickiness of a composition to be tested was evaluated using a texture analyzer (model: TA.XT Plus) to test the strength between each artificial skin as follows
[0126] 1) 10 pL of a sample were applied to black artificial skin, and left the skin to stick to the bottom of a plate;
[0127] 2) another black artificial skin of the same size was left glued onto a probe;
[0128] 3) the skins were dried at room temperature for 2 minutes;
[0129] 4) The progression began and the probe was allowed to descend until it touched the artificial skin at the bottom of the plate with a force of 3 kg;
[0130] 5) The analyzer will read the peeling force (g) when the skins separate from each other. The other, which may be related to the stickiness of the sample.
[0131] Figure 1 shows the stickiness of the compositions in inventive example 1 and comparative example 1 as determined by a texture analyzer. The higher the negative force data, the stickier the composition under test.
[0132] It can be seen in [Fig.1] that the composition of inventive example 1 is less sticky than the composition of comparative example 1.
[0133] It can be concluded that the composition of the present invention is non-crystallising and not too sticky.
Claims
Demands
1. A leave-on composition, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylated polyol fatty acid esters, alkoxylated fatty alcohols and one of their combinations; (ii) at least one polyhydroxy acid; and (iii) at least one alkanolamine.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from C8-C28 polyglycerol fatty acid esters with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 2 to 20 glycerol motifs, C8-C28 polyol polyoxyalkylated esters, C3-28 alkoxylated fatty alcohols and combinations thereof; preferably selected from C10-C22 polyglycerol fatty acid esters with a polyglyceryl fraction derived from 4 to 10 glycerol motifs, C10-C22 polyoxyethylenated glyceryl fatty acid esters, C4-C22 ethoxylated / propoxylated fatty alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and 1 to 50 propylene oxide motifs, and combinations thereof;more preferably selected from polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5-ceteth-20, PPG-4-ceteth-20, PPG-26-BUTETH-26 and one of their combinations.;
3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from C8-C28 polyoxyalkylated C2-C9 polyol fatty acid esters, alkoxylated C3-28 fatty alcohols and combinations thereof; more preferably selected from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5-ceteth-20, PPG-4-ceteth-20; more preferably selected from PPG-5-ceteth-20 and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the polyhydroxy acid is selected from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids and aromatic polyhydroxy acids, preferably selected among the lactones with 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone, preferably the polyhydroxy acid is present in an amount from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.0% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the alkanolamine is selected from mono-, di- and trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, and one of their combinations, preferably selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, tromethamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, and one of their combinations; more preferably selected from triethanolamine, tromethamine, aminomethyl propanol and one of their combinations.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the pH value of the composition is from 3.5 to 9.
0.
8. Composition according to claim 1, comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) 0.5% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5-ceteth-20, PPG-4-ceteth-20, and one of their combinations; (ii) 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of gluconolactone; and (iii) at least one alkanolamine selected from aminomethyl propanol, triethanolamine, tromethamine and one of their combinations, wherein the composition has a pH value of 3.5 to 9.
0.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition is in the form of a homogeneous hydric system.
10. Non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.