Combination of rose extracts and peptide for skin nutrition

Abstract

The present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a combination of cosmetic active ingredients for promoting and / or improving the nutrition of the skin and / or lips, promoting and / or improving the hydration of the skin, improving the radiance and / or uniformity of the complexion and / or skin, characterized in that the combination of active ingredients comprises: (i) an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent; (ii) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and (iii) a hexapeptide with the INCI name: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8.

Description

Title of the invention: Combination of rose extracts and peptide for skin nutrition FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic use of a combination of cosmetic active ingredients for promoting and / or improving the nutrition of the skin and / or lips, promoting and / or improving the hydration of the skin, improving the radiance and / or uniformity of the complexion and / or skin. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the skin and / or lips for promoting and / or improving the nutrition of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application to said skin and / or said lips, in particular the skin, of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The skin is the body's first barrier of protection against the environment. Maintaining its integrity is therefore essential. We know that nutrition plays a key role in the quality of the skin, particularly due to the cutaneous consequences observed during nutritional deficiencies. For example, a vitamin C deficiency leads to skin discoloration and poor skin repair.

[0003] The structural components of the skin come from nutrients such as small peptides, minerals, vitamins, which can serve as cofactors, activators or inhibitors of enzymes. In addition, the skin is constantly exposed to UV, and pro-oxidant factors, which justifies the interest of antioxidant vitamins for good skin function.

[0004] Nutrients come from the blood supply present in the dermis, but which the epidermis lacks. Thus, the upper layers of the skin depend on the nutritional supply of the lower layers. Nutrients must therefore travel through the different layers of the epidermis, but also to the heart of the cells and their organelles. Human cells are enveloped by a membrane, a phospholipid bilayer that separates two aqueous compartments: the extracellular space and the intracellular space. Specialized proteins called transporters are dedicated to the exchange of nutrients across this membrane, and / or to reach intracellular organelles. Different classes of transporters exist, to distribute different classes of nutrients: amino acids, lipids, vitamins, minerals, but also water.There are also nutrient receptors, which once bound to their ligand allow them to de... trigger an essential intracellular response. However, the expression of these transporters can be impacted by various stresses that disrupt skin homeostasis: for example, oxidative stress. A decrease in these transporters will impact nutrient exchanges and therefore skin nutrition.

[0005] There is therefore a need for active ingredients that stimulate the expression of different classes of transporters to promote and / or improve the distribution of nutrients in the upper layers of the skin.

[0006] Unexpectedly, the Applicant has demonstrated an in vitro effect on the expression of these transporters by an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety. It has also demonstrated a synergistic effect on the expression of these transporters between the peptide Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety and a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety. Statement of the invention

[0007] The present invention therefore relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a combination of cosmetic active ingredients to promote and / or improve the nutrition of the skin and / or lips, promote and / or improve the hydration of the skin, improve the radiance and / or uniformity of the complexion and / or skin, characterized in that the combination of active ingredients comprises:

[0008] (i) an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, obtained by extraction in enzyme by means of a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent;

[0009] (ii) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and

[0010] (iii) a hexapeptide with the INCI name: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8.

[0011] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the skin and / or lips to promote and / or improve the nutrition of the skin and / or lips comprising the application to said skin and / or said lips, in particular the skin, of a cosmetic composition comprising: i. an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent; ii. a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and iii. a hexapeptide with INCI name: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8.

[0012] The invention further relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety (i), obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, for promoting and / or improving the nutrition of the skin and / or lips. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Use of the association according to the invention

[0013] Thus, the present invention relates in particular to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a combination of cosmetic active ingredients to promote and / or improve the nutrition of the skin and / or lips, promote and / or improve the hydration of the skin, improve the radiance and / or uniformity of the complexion and / or skin, characterized in that the combination of active ingredients comprises:

[0014] (i) an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, obtained by extraction in enzyme by means of a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent;

[0015] (ii) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and

[0016] (iii) a hexapeptide with the INCI name: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8.

[0017] The roses or rose bushes used as plant material for the preparation of the extracts used according to the invention correspond to the rose bush or rose 'Jardin de Granville®', a hybrid variety offered exclusively by "Roses anciennes André Eve SAS" and protected by Plant Variety Certificate under No. 20110345 with the species name Rosa L. and the variety name EVANRAT. This bush rose belongs to the group of modern hybrids, which, from May to October, is permanently covered in roses, thus showing an excellent repeat-flowering character. Rosewood extract and preparation process

[0018] The aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety or rose 'Jardin de Granville®', preferably summer rosewood, used according to the invention is obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, according to the techniques described in application FR3090380.

[0019] We will speak indifferently of aqueous extract of rosewood or rosewood or polar extract of rosewood or rosewood or hydrophilic extract of rosewood or rosewood or eco-extract obtained by a process of eco-extraction of rosewood or rosewood in the description.

[0020] The expression "polar solvent" means that the solvent has a Polarity Index value that is equal to or greater than a value of 4. The polarity index is a quantity calculated on the basis of thermodynamic quantities (solubility and change of state) which highlights the more or less polar character of a molecule. For the polarity indices of solvents, refer to the article by LR SNYDER: Classification of the solvent properties of common liquids; Journal of Chromatography, 92 (1974), 223-230.

[0021] The preferred polar solvents are those consisting of a compound comprising at least one polar covalent bond of OH type.

[0022] As cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, a solvent or a mixture of solvents is chosen from water, C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, glycols, such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol and propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, water is used.

[0023] According to a particular embodiment, said aqueous extract of rosewood is characterized in that it comprises water in a content ranging from 94 to 96%, a dry extract content ranging from 3 to 5% and preservatives in a content ranging from 0.5 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract. Plant material

[0024] There are two types of rosewood depending on the time of year they are harvested: - Winter wood, generally harvested between November and April, and - Summer woods, generally harvested between the months of May and October.

[0025] According to a particular and preferred mode, summer woods will be used. In the description, we will speak indifferently of rosewood or summer rosewood.

[0026] The rosewoods according to the invention are obtained from freshly cut whole roses and are isolated from the rest of the plant by manual or mechanical separation.

[0027] In a particular embodiment, the rosewoods are directly used for extraction.

[0028] In another embodiment, the rosewoods are previously dried before extraction.

[0029] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the rosewood is ground prior to the extraction step.

[0030] Rosewoods include monosaccharide sugars (fructose, glucose), and polysaccharides, particularly disaccharides, polyphenols (catechin), amino acids (mainly aspartic acid, tyrosine and arginine), minerals (ash, sodium, potassium, calcium), flavonoids (mostly glycosylated) and tannins.

[0031] In particular, calcium improves epidermal differentiation and strengthens skin structure, while potassium amplifies skin hydration and boosts energy assimilation. Phytosugars (fructose, glucose) are intended to fill skin cells with energy.

[0032] The aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention is an extract concentrated in polar natural compounds. The aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention is distinct from rose water. This is a rosewood extract implementing the extraction of natural compounds of rosewood in the presence of aqueous (polar) solvents with or without the addition of a pH modifier, and an implementation, in the formulation, in the form of an aqueous solution or concentrate, the solvent of the concentrate which may be the extraction solvent and / or an additional solvent.

[0033] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention further comprises in small proportion an extract of rose flowers representing from 0.01 to 1%, preferably from 0.05 to 0.5%, preferably 0.1 to 0.2% of the total aqueous extract of rose according to the invention. In this embodiment, the original plant material comprises rosewoods and rose flowers in a proportion of 0.01% flowers for 99.99% of wood to 1% flowers for 99% of wood. Extraction process

[0034] The aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention can be obtained according to different eco-extraction processes known to those skilled in the art and in particular that described below.

[0035] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, rosewoods of the Evanrat variety, preferably the Jardin de Granville® rose, preferably previously dried rosewoods, will be used as plant material in the extraction processes adapted to the invention described below.

[0036] The woods can be used fresh, frozen or previously dried using conventional drying tools known to those skilled in the art, such as for example drying in the open air, in ovens, by freeze-drying or zeodration. Thus, according to one embodiment, and prior to the extraction step itself, the woods may have been dried and / or ground. According to another embodiment, the woods are used wet and then ground.

[0037] According to a particular embodiment, the wood is ground before extraction, for example by means of a mortar, cryogenic grinding, a mixer, a traditional grinder or a centrifuge according to methods known to those skilled in the art.

[0038] The aqueous extract of rosewood according to the invention can be obtained in particular according to enzymatic extraction processes.

[0039] Depending on the molecules that one seeks to extract, the enzymes will be adapted to the walls to be hydrolyzed to access these said molecules. Advantageously, one can in particular use enzymes of the cellulase, hemicellulase, pectinase or protease type, alone or in combination.

[0040] It will thus be possible to use a cellulase to release the glucose and the cellulose; a hemicellulase to release the mono and oligomers of reduced sugars; a pectinase to release the uronic acids; and advantageously a protease to hydrolyze the structural proteins and improve the lysis of the raw material.

[0041] In a preferred embodiment, the eco-extraction is carried out using the protocol described in patent application WO2011045387 (corresponding to patent application FR2351461) in the name of the National Polytechnic Institute of Lorraine INPL. This is an alternative technology meeting the regulatory constraints- and environmental benefits while remaining economically competitive. This innovative process allows three types of products to be extracted from plant matter in a single step: an oil (rich in nutrients, polyphenols, sterols, vitamin E, etc.), an aqueous extract and a cake (solid phase).

[0042] Thus, in one embodiment of the invention, the aqueous extract of rosewood of the use according to the invention is obtained by an enzymatic extraction process comprising the steps:

[0043] a) addition of water to the previously ground rosewood,

[0044] b) addition of an enzymatic mixture containing at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase and at least one pectinase, and advantageously in addition at least one protease,

[0045] c) incubation with stirring of the previously ground rosewood and the enzymatic mixture to release oils, proteins and fermentable sugars into the reaction medium,

[0046] d) separation of the reaction medium to obtain free oil, an aqueous phase containing proteins and fermentable sugars, and a solid phase, and

[0047] e) separation of the aqueous phase and possible addition of preservatives.

[0048] Said rosewood extract used according to the invention being obtained after the separation step (e).

[0049] According to a particular embodiment, in step a), the appropriate particle size of the plant material is advantageously obtained by grinding said plant material. The grinding must be as fine as possible to promote the action of the enzymes. Ideally, all the particles must have a size close to 50 μm, preferably close to 10 μm.

[0050] Preferably, the mass of water added to the plant material is equal to 1 to 2 times the mass of said plant material and does not exceed this quantity.

[0051] In particular in step b), the ratio between the activity of the pectinase and the activity of the cellulase being at least 0.14, preferably between 0.3 and 2.5, and more preferably between 0.35 and 0.45, and the ratio between the activity of the pectinase and the activity of the hemicellulase being at least 7.103; preferably between 1.102 and 0.5, and more preferably between 1.102 and 2.102.

[0052] More particularly, the enzymatic mixture used contains at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase, at least one pectinase, and advantageously in addition at least one protease. According to a particular embodiment, the cellulase(s), hemi-cellulase(s) and pectinase(s) represent 75% of the enzymatic mixture and the protease(s) represent 25% of said enzymatic mixture. According to a particular embodiment, the cellulases are present in a content ranging from 1 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of the enzymatic mixture, the hemicellulases are present in a content ranging from 1 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of the enzyme mixture and the pectinases are present in a content ranging from 1 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of the enzyme mixture. And advantageously the proteases are present in a content ranging from 1 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of the enzyme mixture.

[0053] In a preferred embodiment the enzymatic mixture used contains 25% cellulases, 25% hemicellulases, 25% pectinases and 25% proteases.

[0054] Preferably, the quantity used of the enzymatic mixture as defined above is between 0.25% and 10%, preferably between 1% and 6%, by volume of the water / plant material mixture.

[0055] Advantageously, the incubation according to step c) is carried out for 2 to 20 hours, preferably between 4 and 12 hours, at a temperature between 25°C and 75°C, preferably between 40°C and 60°C, and preferably around 50°C.

[0056] The hydrolysis reaction is then stopped by deactivating the enzymes by heating, preferably between 80°C and 105°C for, for example, 5 to 20 minutes

[0057] Then the reaction medium is separated, according to step d), using all suitable known separation techniques, such as centrifugation or decantation.

[0058] According to a particular embodiment, the mixture is pre-filtered on a 0.8mm then 0.5mm sieve in order to remove the largest part of the solid phase, then a sterilizing filtration is advantageously carried out on clarifying plates with a pore size of 0.2pm, at a pressure of 2 Bars.

[0059] The aqueous phase obtained after sterilizing filtration is stabilized with preservatives (citric acid, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate).

[0060] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous extract of rosewood used in the combination of the invention or in the composition of the invention is obtained by an enzymatic extraction process comprising the steps:

[0061] a) adding water to the previously ground rosewood having a suitable particle size,

[0062] b) addition of an enzymatic mixture containing at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase and at least one pectinase, and advantageously in addition at least one protease,

[0063] c) incubation with stirring of the previously ground rosewood and the enzymatic mixture to release into the reaction medium oils, proteins and fermentable sugars, for a duration depending on the desired yields,

[0064] d) separation of the reaction medium to obtain free oil, an aqueous phase containing proteins and fermentable sugars, and a solid phase,

[0065] e) separation of the aqueous phase and possible addition of preservatives.

[0066] The aqueous extract of rosewood used in the combination of the invention or in the composition of the invention is characterized in particular by the presence of amino acids (aspartic acid, tyrosine, arginine) and total sugars (glucose, fructose).

[0067] In particular, according to one embodiment, the aqueous extract of rosewood used in the combination of the invention or in the composition of the invention is characterized in that it comprises amino acids among aspartic acid, tyrosine and / or arginine, and sugars among glucose and / or fructose.

[0068] The aqueous extract of rosewood used according to the invention is also characterized by the fact that it is not a fermented extract.

[0069] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous extract of rosewood used according to the invention comprises water in a content ranging from 94 to 96%, a dry extract content ranging from 1 to 6% and preferably from 3 to 5% and preservatives in a content ranging from 0.5 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract. This extract of rosewood according to the invention is called in the INCI name water (and) rose extract (and) citric acid (and) potassium sorbate (and) sodium benzoate.

[0070] The aqueous extract of rosewood of the composition according to the invention will generally be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10%, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Hexapeptide

[0071] The association of the invention and the compositions of the invention also comprise a hexapeptide, in particular a hexapeptide with INCI name: Acetyl hexapeptide 8.

[0072] Preferably, the acetyl hexapeptide 8 is that marketed by the company LIPOTEC under the name ARGIRELINE® Amplified peptide with INCI name: WATER and ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8 and SODIUM BENZOATE. The commercial product ARGIRELINE® Amplified peptide comprises 0.05% of peptide.

[0073] According to a particular embodiment, the commercial product ARGIRELINE® Amplified peptide containing Tacetyl hexapeptide-8 is present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 5% and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] In particular, Tacetyl hexapeptide-8 is present in the composition of the invention in a peptide content ranging from 0.00005% to 0.005% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.00025% to 0.0025%, and more preferably from 0.0005% to 0.0015% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction and method of preparation

[0076] By “rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction”, “ bioactive serum fraction" or "isolated bioactive fraction of roses", "rose serum", "Rose De Granville® Serum", "Zêta" or "Zêta fraction", means an extract of roses of the Evanrat variety, or 'Jardin de Granville®' rose, comprising the enzymes, proteins, sugars, ions and other active molecules present in the cytosol of the cells making up the different plant tissues of roses. The extract according to the invention is distinct from a cryoextract of rose petals as described in application FR3066388. Plant material

[0077] The rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction used according to the invention can be prepared from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, or 'Jardin de Granville®' roses, frozen, freeze-dried, or any mixture thereof. In the context of the invention, fresh roses are preferably used.

[0078] According to a particular embodiment, summer roses will be used to prepare the bioactive serum fraction isolated from roses, in particular summer rose petals. According to another embodiment, winter roses will preferably be used, in particular winter rose petals.

[0079] It is particularly advantageous to use the petals of roses of the Evanrat variety because they are rich in monosaccharide sugars (fructose, glucose, sucrose), organic acids (citric acid, malic acid), polyphenols (catechin), vitamin C, amino acids (mainly aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine and glutamine), minerals (ash, potassium, calcium), and carotene.

[0080] By rich in monosaccharide sugars is meant a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, in which said extract comprises at least 500 pg / pL of at least one monosaccharide sugar chosen from fructose, glucose and sucrose.

[0081] By mineral-rich is meant a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, wherein said extract comprises at least 500 mg / Kg of at least one mineral selected from potassium, calcium and sodium.

[0082] Thus, according to one embodiment, the extract of roses of the Evanrat variety in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, used in the combination of the invention or the composition of the invention comprises at least 500 pg / pL of at least one monosaccharide sugar chosen from fructose, glucose and sucrose, and / or at least 500 mg / Kg of at least one mineral chosen from potassium, calcium and sodium.

[0083] Advantageously, calcium improves epidermal differentiation and strengthens the skin's structure, while potassium amplifies skin hydration and boosts energy assimilation. Phyto-sugars (fructose, glucose, sucrose) help to fill skin cells with energy. Extraction process

[0084] Fresh roses of the Evanrat variety or 'Jardin de Granville®' roses are used as plant material. According to a preferred method, these are fresh petals of roses of the Evanrat variety or 'Jardin de Granville®' roses.

[0085] Advantageously, said method does not require the addition of any solvent or exogenous liquid.

[0086] The method implemented to obtain the isolated bioactive serum fraction used according to the invention comprises the main steps of:

[0087] a) Cleaning of the plant material, maceration, pressing then mechanical separation of the plant material to obtain an intracellular colloidal dispersion (ICD) and a material enriched in fibers (fraction A);

[0088] b) “Treatment A” then mechanical separation of the Intracellular Colloidal Dispersion (ICD) to obtain Supernatant A and a Membrane Fraction (Fraction B);

[0089] c) “Treatment B” then mechanical separation of Supernatant A to obtain Supernatant B and Fraction C (Cytoplasmic Fraction);

[0090] d) “Treatment C” then mechanical separation of Supernatant B to give a “Bioactive serum fraction” and a Fraction D (Precipitate); and

[0091] e) Optionally, mixing the “bioactive serum fraction” with at least one preservative and / or stabilizer.

[0092] The extract of fresh roses, preferably fresh rose petals, of the Evanrat variety or 'Jardin de Granville®' rose obtained at the end of this process, is a "bioactive serum fraction" or "bioactive fraction" within the meaning of the invention.

[0093] By "cleaning" is meant the removal of debris from fresh Granville® roses, and preferably fresh petals, before further processing, in a manner that avoids injury to the plant, or the removal of valuable components. For example, it may be carried out by low-pressure rinsing with potable water under conditions where the runoff wash would not substantially contain plant pigments. Excess wash water is then removed from the washed plants.

[0094] By "maceration" is meant the act of transforming the fresh Granville® roses, and preferably the fresh petals, into smaller particles to break their integrity and subsequently facilitate the expulsion of the liquid intracellular colloidal dispersion (ICD). Examples of suitable maceration instruments include, but are not limited to, devices such as a crusher, grinder, or mill (e.g., knife mill, hammer mill, etc.). To avoid temperature-induced degradation of the plant material, the maceration step may include temperature monitoring and selection of maceration parameters ensuring that there is no significant increase in the temperature of the plant material at during this stage.

[0095] By "pressing" is meant the separation of liquid material from fresh Granville® roses, and preferably fresh petals, by the application of mechanical force. This includes, but is not limited to, techniques such as ambient gravity drainage, pressing by a heavy object, centrifugal force from a rotating expeller, piston pressure from a hydraulic press, or rollers or a screw of a type suitable for a press.

[0096] By “fiber-enriched material” or “MEF” or “FEM” (Fiber Enriched Material) is meant a solid and / or semi-solid fraction enriched with fibers of fresh Granville® roses, preferably fresh petals, from which the liquid intracellular colloidal dispersion (ICD) has been removed by pressing.

[0097] By "intracellular colloidal dispersion" or "ICD" or "DCI" is meant the liquid material expelled by pressing fresh Granville® roses, preferably fresh petals. The resulting liquid contains dispersed solid and / or semi-solid particles and, potentially, water-immiscible liquid droplets of various sizes (collectively referred to as particles), in a contiguous aqueous medium. The particles consist primarily of plant cell organelles, organelle fragments, and fiber-enriched residual material. The aqueous medium consists primarily of cytosols and vacuoles.

[0098] By "separation" is meant the separation of solid and / or semi-solid particles, and non-aqueous liquid droplets from an aqueous liquid by exploiting the density and / or size of the particles. This includes, but is not limited to, techniques such as dewatering, filtration (including filtration using a pressure gradient), skimming, ambient gravity sedimentation, decantation, centrifugation or a combination of the above. Preferably, continuous flow mechanical separation will be used, but this does not exclude batch processing. "Separation 1" and "Separation 2" refer to the respective process steps, carried out with respective parameters.

[0099] By "supernatant" is meant an aqueous material from which particles have been separated. "Supernatant A" and "Supernatant B" mean the supernatants resulting from the respective separation steps of the process.

[0100] By "precipitate" is meant the particles from which an aqueous material has been separated. "Fraction B" and "Fraction C" mean the precipitates resulting from the respective separation steps of the process.

[0101] The terms “fresh Granville® rose serum fraction” and “fresh Granville® rose petal serum fraction” refer to compositions produced by the process as shown above without added preservatives and / or stabilizers. to protect the ingredient composition from environmental factors such as temperature, atmosphere (e.g., oxygen), light, and microorganisms.

[0102] By "preservatives and / or stabilizers" is meant substances which, when added to a "fresh Granville® Roses serum fraction", preferably a "fresh Granville® Roses petals serum fraction", protect it against environmental factors such as temperature, atmosphere (e.g. oxygen), light and microorganisms. Particular suitable substances may include, without limitation, a preservative, a stabilizer and / or a mixture thereof.

[0103] The term "Granville® Rose Serum" or "Fresh Granville® Rose Extract" as used herein means a combination of a fresh Granville® Rose Serum fraction and preservatives and / or stabilizers.

[0104] The term "Granville® rose petal serum" or "Granville® fresh rose petal extract" as used herein means a combination of a Granville® fresh rose petal serum fraction and preservatives and / or stabilizers. In a preferred embodiment, the extract used according to the invention is obtained by carrying out the extraction method disclosed in EP2919757, JP 6130924, CN ZL201380057567.6, EP2491939B1, CN1929851B, US Patent Nos. 8,734,861 and 7,473,435; US Patent Application No. 16 / 078925.

[0105] Preferably, rose flowers (Roses de Granville®) and 4 to 5 cm of stem are harvested in a manner that avoids chopping or crushing the collected biomass to avoid disruption of the cellular structure of the flowers. The viability of the collected plants can be tested using an OS5p multi-mode chlorophyll fluorometer (Opti-Sciences Inc, Hudson, NH, USA).

[0106] According to a particular embodiment, the fresh living flowers, including the petals, the pistil and the stamen, have been removed from the stem, including the sepal and the receptacle, and packed in storage bags and are placed immediately at negative temperatures between -20°C and -80°C, such as for example -20°C, -40°C or -60°C. The flowers can thus be stored for long periods, such as for example several months, or several years, before being used for the purposes of the extraction process.

[0107] According to a preferred embodiment, the fresh live flowers, including the petals, pistil and stamen, are removed from the stem, including the sepal and receptacle, and packed in storage bags and placed in storage at a temperature between 0 and 20°C and preferably at a temperature between 2 and 6°C until harvesting is complete. Step a

[0108] Once harvesting is complete, the roses, preferably the rose petals, are immediately rinsed by spraying with water at 10°C to 15°C for 0.1 to 0.3 minutes with a flow rate of 5 to 6 liters per minute. Excess water is preferably removed from the rinsed flowers by allowing them to drain for at least 1 minute. The rinsed flowers may then undergo maceration, pressing, and separation by mechanical, roller, hydraulic, or juice extractor pressing to extract the contents of the liquid intercellular colloidal dispersion (ICD) from the fiber-enriched material ("Fraction A").

[0109] At the end of these steps, the yield of fraction A is between 30% and 65%, preferably between 35% and 60% and more preferably between 40% and 55% (weight / weight).

[0110] The DCI typically comprises from 2% to 20% of dry matter, preferably from 4% to 16% of dry matter, and more preferably from 6% to 12% of dry matter.

[0111] At this stage, the DCI can be frozen for storage. Typically, it is frozen at -20°C. Step b

[0112] When the DCI has been frozen for storage, it must first be gently thawed. Typically, it is placed to thaw at 4°C or in ice.

[0113] “Treatment A” is carried out by a destabilization treatment of the DCI with electromagnetic waves produced from magnetrons operating at a frequency between 2.45 and 5.8 GHz. The parameters of the destabilization treatment are set to obtain the decrease in the value of the real component of the low-frequency dielectric constant (e'o) by approximately 20 Farads per meter (F / m) compared to its value before the treatment. This treatment degrades the stability of the DCI by causing the agglomeration and / or aggregation of particles (i.e., organelles, fragments of organelles, residual fibrous material) into assemblies sufficiently large and stable to allow and / or improve mechanical separation.

[0114] Indeed, the resulting intracellular colloidal suspension is considered to be a relatively stable colloidal dispersion composed of a continuous phase (cytoplasm and vacuole contents) and a dispersed phase (suspended organelles and their fragments). According to the Derjaguin-Laundau-Verwey-Overbeek (DLVO) theory, this stability is maintained by the sum of the attractive van der Waals forces and the repulsive forces of the electric double layers. The energy barrier resulting from the repulsive force prevents the particles of the dispersed phase from approaching each other unless they have sufficient energy to overcome this barrier, in which case the attractive force will bring them into contact (they will then adhere irreversibly). The DLVO theory describes the interaction and potential energy of the particles as a function of their parameters, their distance from each other and the characteristics of the continuous phase. Changing the values ​​of the variables affecting the repulsive force affects the stability of the dispersion. Under normal conditions of colloidal stability, an increase in potential energy as particles approach each other constitutes a potential energy barrier that cannot be overcome without external energy input. This energy barrier keeps the particles separated and the dispersion stable. The altered conditions in Treatment A allow the repulsive force of the double layer to decrease to the point where there is no longer a potential energy barrier and the particles can approach and agglomerate freely.

[0115] Restoring the initial conditions does not restore stability, because the particles have irreversibly agglomerated. They are thus easily removed by mechanical means (Koganov et al., sofw journal 2017).

[0116] Preferably, at the end of “treatment A”, the step of mechanical separation of the DCI is carried out by centrifugation in order to produce “Supernatant A” and “Fraction B”.

[0117] Typically, "supernatant A" has a turbidity of less than about 100 NTU.

[0118] “Fraction B” typically comprises from 10% to 30% dry matter, preferably from 13% to 27% dry matter, and more preferably about 15.0% to 25.0% dry matter. Step c

[0119] “Treatment B” is carried out by adjusting the pH level in “supernatant A” by titration with, for example, an alkali until a pH greater than 6 is obtained, preferably a pH ranging from 6.5 to 7.5. Typically, potassium carbonate will be used as the preferred alkali.

[0120] At the end of “treatment B”, the step of mechanical separation of “Supernatant A” is preferably carried out by centrifugation in order to produce “Supernatant B” and “Fraction C”.

[0121] “Fraction C” typically comprises from 5% to 25% dry matter, preferably from 8% to 22% dry matter, and more preferably approximately 10.0% to 20.0% dry matter. Step d

[0122] “Treatment C” is carried out by adjusting the pH level in “supernatant B”, in particular by titration with, for example, acid until a pH of less than 4.5 is obtained. Typically, a citric acid solution will be used as the preferred acid.

[0123] At the end of “treatment C”, the step of mechanical separation of “Supernatant B” is preferably carried out by centrifugation in order to produce the “Bioactive serum fraction” or “fraction of serum from fresh Granville® roses”, preferably the “fraction of serum from fresh petals of Granville® roses” and “Fraction D” (Non-Preserved Extract).

[0124] The “Granville® fresh rose petal serum fraction” typically comprises from 2% to 20% dry matter, preferably from 4% to 16% dry matter, and more preferably from 6.0% to 10.0% dry matter. Step e

[0125] According to certain embodiments, the serum fraction obtained at the end of step d) is mixed with at least one preservative or at least one stabilizer to give a finished ingredient, or with a combination thereof to give the extract of fresh Granville® roses or “Granville® Rose Serum”, preferably the extract of fresh Granville® roses petals or “Granville® Rose Petal Serum”.

[0126] Particularly suitable stabilizing agents may include, without limitation, a preservative, a stabilizer, and / or mixtures thereof. Suitable preservatives and stabilizers for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, sodium metabisulfite, glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and caprylyl glycol. In a particular embodiment, the stabilizing agents may include at least one preservative, at least one stabilizer, at least one antioxidant, or mixtures thereof.

[0127] Thus, according to one embodiment, the bioactive serum fraction isolated from roses, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, used in the combination of the invention or the composition of the invention is obtained by the method comprising the steps of:

[0128] a) cleaning of the plant material, maceration, pressing then mechanical separation of the plant material to obtain an intracellular colloidal dispersion (ICD) and a material enriched in fibers (fraction A);

[0129] b) destabilization of the DCI with electromagnetic waves then mechanical separation of the intracellular colloidal dispersion (DCI) to obtain the supernatant A and a Membrane Fraction (fraction B);

[0130] c) adjusting the pH level in supernatant A until a pH greater than 6 is obtained, preferably a pH ranging from 6 to 7, then mechanical separation of supernatant A to obtain supernatant B and fraction C (cytoplasmic fraction);

[0131] d) adjusting the pH level in supernatant B until a pH of less than 4.5 is obtained, then mechanically separating supernatant B to give a “Bioactive Serum Fraction” and a fraction D (precipitate); and

[0132] e) Optionally, mixing the “bioactive serum fraction” with at least one preservative and / or stabilizer.

[0133] According to a particular embodiment, the bioactive serum fraction isolated from roses, preferably of rose petals, used according to the invention comprises water in a content ranging from 90 to 94%, a dry extract content ranging from 6 to 10%. This bioactive serum fraction isolated from roses used according to the invention is called in the INCI name Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract.

[0134] According to another particular embodiment, the bioactive serum fraction isolated from roses, preferably from rose petals, obtained according to the invention comprises water in a content ranging from 89 to 93%, a dry extract content ranging from 6 to 10% and preservatives and / or stabilizers in a content ranging from 0.3 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0135] The bioactive serum fraction isolated from roses may be present in the combination of the invention or the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic process

[0136] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the skin and / or lips comprising the application to the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin, of a composition as defined according to the invention.

[0137] By "cosmetic composition" used in the process of the invention, we mean any composition for cosmetic purposes, i.e. aesthetic purposes, which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or the neck.

[0138] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratin materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0139] The physiologically acceptable medium generally represents from 1 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0140] By "topical use" or "topical application" is meant a composition intended for application to keratin materials. In fact, an oral composition is not intended for topical application to the skin.

[0141] A composition for topical application according to the method of the invention may be, for example, in the form of a cream, oil-in-water emulsion, or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, lotion, or a serum.

[0142] In a preferred embodiment, said composition used in the method according to the invention is in the form of a cream or a serum.

[0143] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0144] According to the invention, the term 'water-soluble solvent' means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight). at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). These include: - lower C1-C5 mono-alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures; - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; - C2-C32 polyols such as polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and their mixtures,

[0145] and mixtures thereof.

[0146] It may also comprise hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0147] The cosmetic composition used in the process according to the invention may further comprise a fatty (solid fatty substances) or oily phase.

[0148] The term "oily phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils which are miscible with each other, or not. For the purposes of the invention, the term "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.

[0149] An oily phase according to the invention may comprise natural, hydrocarbon, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0150] The content of fatty or oily phase in the cosmetic composition of the invention will generally range from 0.2% to 45%, preferably from 0.5% to 30%, and more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0151] The composition used in the process of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as for example emollient agents, moisturizing agents, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lifting agents, tightening agents, plumping agents, lightening agents, fillers, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.

[0152] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition used in the non-therapeutic cosmetic process according to the invention is intended for topical application to the skin and / or lips and in particular to the skin of the face and / or neck.

[0153] In particular, according to one embodiment, said cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin of the face and / or body, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one aqueous extract of rosewood, an isolated bioactive serum fraction obtained from fresh rose, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, and at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of antioxidants, perfumes, emollient agents, moisturizing agents, vitamins, anti-aging agents, lifting agents, tightening agents, plumping agents, lightening agents, fillers, pearlescent agents and their mixtures.

[0154] According to a particular embodiment, the non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the skin and / or lips according to the invention, to promote and / or improve the nutrition of the skin and / or lips, comprises the application to said skin and / or said lips, in particular the skin, of a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0155] (i) an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, obtained by extraction in enzyme by means of a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent;

[0156] (ii) a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and

[0157] (iii) a hexapeptide with the INCI name: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8.

[0158] By "skin and / or lips" according to the invention, we mean in particular healthy skin and / or lips, that is to say not presenting any troubles or disorders which would be a pathological condition ('unhealthy' subjects, suffering from a pathology).

[0159] According to a particular embodiment, the application of the composition as defined according to the invention to the skin and / or the lips makes it possible to promote and / or improve the nutrition of the skin and / or the lips.

[0160] According to another embodiment, the non-therapeutic cosmetic process according to the invention is characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises:

[0161] - from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, of the aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety (i);

[0162] - from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.02% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, of the extract of roses of the Evanrat variety in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction (ii); and

[0163] - from 0.00005% to 0.005% by weight, in particular from 0.00025% to 0.0025%, and more particularly still from 0.0005% to 0.0015% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, of the hexapeptide with INCI name: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (iii).

[0164] According to a preferred embodiment, said cosmetic composition used in the non-therapeutic cosmetic process according to the invention is characterized in that it is applied to skin affected by an unfavorable or unbalanced nutritional context.

[0165] Use of rosewood extract in skin nutrition

[0166] The invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety (i), obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, to promote and / or improve the nutrition of the skin and / or lips.

[0167] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, percentages (%) are expressed as percentages (%) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. EXAMPLES

[0168] EXAMPLE 1: Preparation of cosmetic active ingredients and combinations of cosmetic active ingredients Preparation of rosewood extract:

[0169] The rosewoods of the Evanrat variety, in particular the Jardin de Granville® rose variety, possibly with the addition of rose flowers, were reduced to powder in three stages.

[0170] Step 1: Pass through a garden shredder to obtain two-centimeter sections

[0171] Step 2: passage through an industrial grinder Solution implementation

[0172] The enzymatic extraction was carried out in a reactor with a maximum capacity of 701. The reactor is stirred by a propeller and is thermostatically controlled by a double jacket.

[0173] 16 kg of rosewood powder with 0.1% rose flowers are dispersed and suspended in 47.5 kg of water.

[0174] In order to deactivate the endogenous enzymes, the mixture was raised to a temperature of 85°C for 1 min and then stabilized at 50°C. Lysis of plant walls

[0175] 0.8 Kg of a HEL1PR1 Enzyme Cocktail comprising a mixture of cellulases, 75% hemicellulases and pectinases and 25% proteases were added to the corresponding reaction mixture (5% w / w). The reaction was continued for 4 hours, the temperature was maintained at 50°C. Inactivation of enzymes

[0176] The mixture was brought to 85°C for 1 min to inactivate the enzymes, then brought back to 35°C. Pre-filtration

[0177] The mixture is pre-filtered on a 0.8mm then 0.5mm sieve in order to remove the largest part of the solid phase, then on a sheet. Sterilizing filtration

[0178] Filtration was carried out on clarifying plates (PALL corporation) with a pore size of 0.2 pm, at a pressure of 2 Bars. Formulation

[0179] The aqueous phase obtained after sterilizing filtration is stabilized with the following preservatives:

[0180] - Citric acid,

[0181] - Potassium sorbate and

[0182] - Sodium benzoate.

[0183] After filtration, an aqueous extract of rosewood is obtained at 3.7% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the extract.

[0184] Dosages carried out on this aqueous extract not stabilized by preservatives give the following results:

[0185] Total polyphenols (g / L): 2.5

[0186] Reducing sugars (g / L): 16.2

[0187] Protein nitrogen (g / L): 0.64

[0188] Total protein (g / L): < 6

[0189] Glucose (g / lOOg): 1.4 (±0.8)

[0190] Fructose (g / lOOg): 0.3 (±0.3)

[0191] Preparation of the active fraction of fresh roses (ZETA fraction):

[0192] Fresh petals of roses of the Evanrat variety or “Jardin de Granville®” rose are used as plant material.

[0193] The bioactive serum fraction of rose petals used according to the invention is obtained according to the following protocol:

[0194] al) cleaning fresh rose petals by spraying with water at a temperature of about 12°C, for 0.1 to 0.3 minutes at a flow rate of 5 to 6 liters per minute,

[0195] a2) maceration, pressing then mechanical separation of the roses using a press mechanical screw (model CP-6 Vincent Corporation, FL) to extract the contents of the liquid intercellular colloidal dispersion (ICD) from the fiber-enriched material (“Fraction A”);

[0196] bl) destabilization of the DCI with electromagnetic waves produced from magnetrons operating at a frequency between 2.45 and 5.8 GHz,

[0197] b2) centrifugation of the intracellular colloidal dispersion (ICD) to obtain the supernatant A and a Membrane Fraction (fraction B);

[0198] cl) adjusting the pH level in supernatant A with an alkali (i.e., potassium carbonate), in order to obtain a pH ranging from 6 to 7,

[0199] c2) mechanical separation of supernatant A to obtain supernatant B and the fraction C (cytoplasmic fraction);

[0200] dl) adjusting the pH level in supernatant B with citric acid to obtain a pH lower than 4.5,

[0201] d2) mechanical separation of supernatant B to give a “serum fraction of fresh petals of Granville® roses” and a fraction D (precipitate); and

[0202] e) mixture of the “fraction of serum from fresh petals of Granville® roses” with potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate.

[0203] The extract of roses of the Evanrat variety in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, also called "Granville® rose petal serum", "Zêta serum", "Zf serum", "ZETA FRACTION" or "ZETA fraction" in the following examples, contains 8% dry matter (active matter), 91.5% by weight of water, 0.15% by weight of potassium sorbate and 0.3% by weight of sodium benzoate. These contents are understood to be by weight relative to the total weight of the extract. The INCI name of this extract is Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract, Potassium Sorbate, and Sodium Benzoate.

[0204] Dosages carried out on this extract of roses of the Evanrat variety give the following results:

[0205] Glucose (pg / pL): 15300 (±300)

[0206] Fructose (pg / pL): 31200 (±150)

[0207] Sucrose (pg / pL): 1500 (±50)

[0208] Potassium (pg / pL): 2200 (±80)

[0209] Calcium (pg / pL): 2000 (±100)

[0210] Sodium (pg / pL): 500 (±10) Hexapeptide

[0211] Acetyl-hexapeptide 8 from the company LIPOTEC is marketed under the name ARGIRELINE® Amplified peptide with INCI name: WATER and ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8 and SODIUM BENZOATE. In the examples, “Acetyl hexapeptide 8” means the commercial product ARGIRELINE® Amplified peptide comprising 0.05% of peptide.

[0212] EXAMPLE 2: Effect of cosmetic active ingredients and combinations of cosmetic active ingredients on the hydration and nutrition of the skin 2.1 - Objectives of this study

[0213] The present example studies the properties of the different cosmetic active ingredients according to the invention, alone and in combination, on the hydration of the skin and its nutrition. The impact of these active ingredients was evaluated on the expression of the following skin-specific markers: - Aquaporin 9 (AQP9): Aquaporins are channels that transport water within tissues. They are essential for proper hydration of the epidermis from the basal to the upper layers. AQP9 is an aquaporin expressed in the epidermis; - Solute carrier family 15 member 1 (SLC15A1): this protein, expressed in epidermal cells, is specialized in the transport of di- or tri-peptides, particularly for skin nutrition; - Hydroxycarboxylic acid receptors 2 and 3 (HCAR2 - HCAR3): located on the surface of the cell membrane, they bind to niacin, a molecules that make up vitamin B3. Vitamin B3 is a precursor of NAD+ and NADP+, which are necessary as a redox cofactor for the metabolism of carbohydrates, lipids, and proteins (Benavente et al., NAD in skin: therapeutic approaches for niacin. Curr Pharm Des. 2009;15(l):29-38), thus promoting skin nutrition. 2.2. Materials and methods 2.2.1. Cell culture

[0214] Normal human keratinocytes from a plastic surgery skin sample are cultured in complete EpiLife™ medium with a seeding density of 50,000 cells per well, in 12-well plates. At subconfluence, the cells are treated for 24 hours with the active ingredients, under four different conditions: - Condition 1 - Rose serum: extract of roses of the Evanrat variety in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction as described in Example 1, used at a final concentration of 0.05% in the cell culture medium; - Condition 2 - Rosewood: aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety as described in Example 1, used at a final concentration of 0.125% in the cell culture medium; - Condition 3 - Hexapeptide-8: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 in the form of the commercial product Argireline®, used at a final concentration of 2% in the cell culture medium; - Condition 4 - combination of the three active ingredients: extract of roses of the Evanrat variety in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction as described in Example 1, used at a final concentration of 0.05% in the cell culture medium + aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety as described in Example 1, used at a final concentration of 0.125% in the cell culture medium + Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, used at a final concentration of 2% in the cell culture medium.

[0215] A fifth control condition with untreated cells is also carried out. 2.2.2. Extraction of total RNAs

[0216] The cell culture medium is removed, and 250 pL of RLT lysis buffer (provided in the Nucleospin RNA trace kit, Macherey-Nagel) is added. The cells are scraped using a Cell Scraper and then the cell lysate is collected in a 1.2 mL deepwell (provided in the Nucleospin RNA kit). Total RNA is extracted according to the defined protocols.

[0217] The total RNA solutions obtained are assayed, and their quality checked, using a microplate reader, the spectrostarNANO (BMG Labtech) coupled with the Mi-crolabSTAR. This device is connected to the computer controlling the Robotics platform and has the specific software for analyzing the results (MARS software). The technique requires a 384-well microplate (LoBase), a positive control (RNA 250, AM7155, Thermofisher) to validate the pipetting performed by the robot as well as the values ​​generated by the spectrostarNANO reader. 2.2.3 Synthesis of complementary DNA

[0218] The reverse transcription (RT) kit used is the High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit (Thermo Fisher), according to the protocol provided. 500 ng of total RNA are diluted in water to obtain a final volume of 25 pL. This mixture is then incubated for 10 minutes at 25 °C then 2 hours at 37 °C in the presence of 25 pL of reaction mixture of High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit 2X. This reaction mixture includes 5 pL of RT buffer, 2 pL of dNTP, 5 pL of primer, 0.5 pL of RNase OUT, 2.5 pL of RT mixture and 10 pL of water. All the components of this reaction mixture come from the High Capacity Reverse Transcription Kit (Thermo Fisher). The different incubations are carried out within the TRobot (Biométra). 2.2.4 PCR-TaqMan Low Density Array

[0219] To set up the PCR phase (polymerase chain reaction), 15 pL of each total RNA + reaction mixture (as prepared above) are mixed with 60 pL of water. 75 pL of TaqMan Gene Expression master mix (ThermoFisher), containing DNA polymerase, are then added. After homogenization, 100 pL of the final mixture are deposited on the microfluidic cards containing the probes corresponding to the genes tested (Table 1 below). These are centrifuged and then sealed. The CD Rom corresponding to the profile of the genes deposited on the plates is loaded into the SDS 2.3 software, specifying the location of each gene on the card. The control gene (or "endogeneous" gene) to be used for the normalization of the results must be indicated before starting the PCR. The latter is carried out according to the protocol provided by Applied Biosystems in the ABI Prism 7900HT Sequence detection System device.The qPCR steps are 2 min at 50°C, 10 min at 94.5°C then 30s at 97°C and 1 min at 59.7°C for 40 cycles.5.

[0220] [Tables 1] Gene Symbol Reference Taq Man Ref seq GeneBank Accession No. Aquaporin 9 AQP9 Hs01033361_ml NM_001320635.1 solute carrier family 15 member 1 SLC15A1 Hs00192639_ml NM_005073.3 hydroxycarboxylic acid receptor 2 HCAR2 Hs02597779_sl NM_032554.3 hydroxycarboxylic acid receptor 3 HCAR3 Hs02341102_sl NM_006018.2 2.2.5 Statistical analyses

[0221] Real-time quantitative PCR can be used if its efficiency is between 90% and 110%. For each sample, the number of cycles at which the signal appears is determined by the SDS 2.3 software. For the same test, the expression levels of the transcripts of interest obtained are normalized with respect to the value obtained for the housekeeping gene Beta-2-microglobulin (control gene). This gene, whose expression is constitutive and invariant, makes it possible to overcome all variations induced during the experiment (dosage of total RNAs, pipetting, reverse transcription step, PCR in the apparatus).

[0222] In the TLDA RT-PCR method, quantification is performed using the comparative AACt method. The relative quantification (RQ) values ​​obtained correspond to the amplitude level (x times more or less than the control) of the expression compared to our control here the untreated. The RQ is obtained by the following calculation where the control is equal to 1:

[0223] RQ = 2-AACt = 2-(treated ACt - untreated ACt)

[0224] ACt treated = Ct target gene treated - Ct housekeeping gene treated

[0225] Untreated ACt Untreated target gene Ct - Untreated housekeeping gene Ct

[0226] In order to evaluate statistically significant variations in transcriptional activity, the Student t-test is used. Each condition is carried out in triplicate (3 untreated and 3 treated under the same conditions). The Fischer F-test is first applied by comparing the two data matrices. When the value is greater than a = 0.05 then the variance for the Student t-test is 2, when the Fischer F-test is less than a = 0.05 then the variance will be equal to 3. The transcriptional variations retained will be those which have a Student t-test less than a = 0.05.

[0227] Results are presented as average over n=3. Student's t-test was used to compare the effect between treated and untreated cells. A significant effect compared to the control (value of 1.0) is a result >1.5 (corresponding to an increase in transcriptional activity of at least 50%).

[0228] The results are considered highly significant for p<0.01(**). 2.3 Results

[0229] The results obtained for each of the conditions tested are shown in Table 2.

[0230] [Tables2] Genes Rose serum (0.05%) Rosewood (0.125%) Hexapeptide-8 (2%) Combination of 3 active ingredients: Rose serum (0.05%) + Rosewood (0.125%) + Hexapeptide-8 (2%) AQP9 1.364 p<0.05 1.853 (+85%) p<0.01 1.241 p<0.05 2.656 (+165%) p<0.01 SLC15A1 1.458 p=0.261 2.190 (+119%) p<0.01 1.524 p=0.340 3.534 (+253%) p<0.01 HCAR2 1.095 p=0.287 1.471 p<0.05 0.896 p=0.383 1.678 (+67%) p<0.01 HCAR3 1.168 p=0.347 1.199 p=0.184 1.010 p=0.944 1.502 (+50%) p<0.01

[0231] According to the results observed in Table 2, normal human keratinocytes treated with the peptide alone or rose serum alone do not show a significant difference in expression of the 4 target genes compared to untreated cells: either the variation is equal to or less than 1.5 (less than 50% increase in transcriptional activity), or p>0.01. Treatment with rosewood extract induces the expression of two transporters: AQP9 and SLC15A1. However, the complex of the three active ingredients stimulates the expression of the 4 target genes, and AQP9 and SLC15A1 are stimulated to a greater extent than treatment with wood alone.

[0232] Rosewood extract therefore significantly improves the hydration and nutrition of skin cells. In addition, the combination of these three active ingredients (rosewood, rose serum and acetyl hexapeptide-8) further improves skin hydration, skin nutrition, maintains cellular homeostasis and improves the radiance and evenness of the complexion. EXAMPLE 3: Formulations 3.1 Composition in the form of an emulsion

[0233] Demineralized water qsp 100.0%

[0234] Glycols 20.0%

[0235] Preservatives 0.6%

[0236] Chelating agent 0.04%

[0237] Carbomer (Carbopol® 981) 0.3%

[0238] Sodium polyacrylate (Covacryl® MV60) 0.2%

[0239] Sodium Hydroxide 0.15%

[0240] Aqueous extract of rosewood * 1% Rose serum * 1%

[0241] Acetyl hexapeptide-8 (ARGIRELINE® Amplified peptide

[0242] comprising 0.05% peptide) 2% (i.e. 0.001% peptide)

[0243] Vegetable oil, esters 16%

[0244] Antioxidant 0.2%

[0245] Steareth-2 0.8%

[0246] * as described in Example 1

[0247] 3.2: Composition in the form of a rich face cream

[0248] Demineralized water qsp 100.0%

[0249] Glycols 13.0%

[0250] Carbomer (Carbopol® 981) 0.3%

[0251] Sodium polyacrylate (Covacryl® MV60) 0.2%

[0252] Sodium Hydroxide 0.15%

[0253] Aqueous extract of rosewood * 1.5% Rose serum * 1.5%

[0254] Acetyl hexapeptide-8 (ARGIRELINE® Amplified peptide

[0255] comprising 0.05% peptide) 2% (i.e. 0.001% peptide)

[0256] Vegetable oil, esters 16%

[0257] Triglycerides of fatty acids 4%

[0258] Shea butter 1%

[0259] Antioxidant 0.2%

[0260] Perfume concentrate 0.4%

[0261] Steareth-2 0.8%

[0262] Preservatives qs

[0263] * as described in Example 1

[0264] 3.3: Composition in the form of a gel-serum for the contour of the eyes

[0265] Purified water Qsp 100.00%

[0266] Glycols 13.0%

[0267] Preservatives 0.60%

[0268] Carbomer 0.80%

[0269] Glyceryl stearate citrate 0.70%

[0270] Lecithin and sodium acrylates copolymer (Lecigel PCR negative) 1.20%

[0271] Isostearyl isostearate 9.0%

[0272] Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 649 MB) 1.0%

[0273] Silica 2.0%

[0274] Aqueous extract of rosewood * 0.5%

[0275] Acetyl hexapeptide-8 (ARGIRELINE® Amplified peptide

[0276] comprising 0.05% peptide) 2% (i.e. 0.001% peptide)

[0277] Rosewood extract * 1% Rose serum * 1.5%

[0278] Tocopheryl acetate 0.10%

[0279] Rose fragrance 0.20%

[0280] * as described in Example 1

Claims

Claims

1. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a combination of cosmetic active ingredients to promote and / or improve the nutrition of the skin and / or lips, promote and / or improve the hydration of the skin, improve the radiance and / or homogeneity of the complexion and / or skin, characterized in that the combination of active ingredients comprises: i. an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent; ii. a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and iii. a hexapeptide with the INCI name: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8.

2. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety (i) comprises amino acids from aspartic acid, tyrosine and / or arginine, and sugars from glucose and / or fructose.

3. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety (i) is obtained by an enzymatic extraction process comprising the steps: a) addition of water to the previously ground rosewood, b) addition of an enzymatic mixture containing at least one cellulase, at least one hemicellulase and at least one pectinase, and advantageously in addition at least one protease, c) incubation with stirring of the previously ground rosewood and the enzymatic mixture to release oils, proteins and fermentable sugars into the reaction medium, d) separation of the reaction medium to obtain free oil, an aqueous phase containing proteins and fermentable sugars, and a solid phase, e) separation of the aqueous phase and optional addition of preservatives.

4. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the extract of roses of the Evanrat variety in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction (ii) comprises at least 500 pg / pL of at least one monosaccharide sugar chosen from fructose, glucose and sucrose, and / or at least 500 mg / Kg of at least one mineral chosen from potassium, calcium and sodium.

5. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the extract of roses of the Evanrat variety in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction (ii) is obtained from fresh petals of roses of the Evanrat variety.

6. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the skin and / or lips to promote and / or improve the nutrition of the skin and / or lips comprising the application to said skin and / or said lips, in particular the skin, of a cosmetic composition comprising: i. an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety, obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent; ii. a rose extract in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction, obtained from fresh roses of the Evanrat variety, and iii. a hexapeptide with the INCI name: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8.

7. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process according to claim 6, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises: - from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, of the aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety (i); - from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.02% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, of the extract of roses of the Evanrat variety in the form of an isolated bioactive serum fraction (ii); and - from 0.00005% to 0.005% by weight, in particular from 0.00025% to 0.0025%, and more particularly still from 0.0005% to 0.0015% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, of the hexapeptide with INCI name: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (iii).

8. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that said cosmetic composition is in the form of a cream, an oil-in-water, or water-in-oil emulsion or a multiple emulsion, a lotion, or a serum.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process according to any one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is intended for topical application to the skin and / or lips and in particular to the skin of the face and / or neck.

10. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process according to any one of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is applied to skin affected by an unfavorable or unbalanced nutritional context.

11. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an aqueous extract of rosewood of the Evanrat variety (i), obtained by enzymatic extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, to promote and / or improve the nutrition of the skin and / or lips.