METHODS FOR TREATMENTING KERATIN FIBERS IN A BRIGHTENING PROCESS

A synergistic combination of amino acids, osmolytes, and carboxylic acids in a pH-adjusted treatment composition addresses the damage caused by hair lightening processes, enhancing hair strength and reducing elasticity for healthier-looking hair.

FR3157171B3Active Publication Date: 2026-01-02LOREAL SA
View PDF 0 Cites 0 Cited by

Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024004712
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-12-20
Filing Date
2024-05-06
Publication Date
2026-01-02
Estimated Expiration
2034-05-06

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair lightening processes, such as bleaching, cause significant damage to keratin fibers by breaking down their natural components, leading to reduced strength, increased elasticity, and porosity, resulting in brittle and easily breakable hair.

Method used

A synergistic combination of amino acids, osmolytes, and carboxylic acids in a treatment composition applied during or before hair lightening processes, with a pH less than 7, to enhance hair strength and reduce elasticity.

Benefits of technology

The treatment composition significantly reduces signs of damage, improving hair strength and elasticity, making it less prone to breakage and maintaining a healthy appearance.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

Smart Images

  • Figure 00000063_0000
    Figure 00000063_0000
  • Figure 00000063_0001
    Figure 00000063_0001
  • Figure 00000063_0002
    Figure 00000063_0002
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

PROCESSES FOR PROCESSING KERATIN FIBER IN A HAIR BRIGHTENING PROCESS. This disclosure relates to processes for treating keratin fibers. The processes include treating keratin fibers with treatment compositions related to a hair lightening process, the treatment compositions comprising (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) at least one solvent. Figure for abstract: none
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

Title of the invention: METHODS FOR TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBERS IN A BRIGHTENING PROCESS technical field

[0001] This disclosure relates to processes for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, for example, repairing damaged keratin fibers, adding strength to keratin fibers, and / or reducing the elasticity of keratin fibers, in connection with a keratin fiber lightening process. BACKGROUND

[0002] Consumers use cosmetic compositions and processes to change or improve the appearance of their hair, for example, by changing the color, style, and / or shape of the hair, and / or by imparting various properties to the hair, such as shine and revitalization. However, many compositions and processes for altering the appearance of hair, such as permanent hair color modification compositions and processes, involve harsh chemical treatments. For example, hair lightening (bleaching) compositions and processes generally require the presence of a strong alkalizing agent, such as ammonia, as well as additional compounds, such as oxidizing agents. In order to lighten the hair color, these components must first break down the natural components of the hair fibers.

[0003] It is known that, although such processes effectively lighten hair color, the chemical agents used inherently cause damage to the hair and negatively impact the strength, elasticity, and porosity of the hair fibers. For example, hair that has been bleached, dyed, styled repeatedly, etc., is often dry, frizzy, and generally unpleasant to the touch and appearance. Furthermore, damaged hair is brittle and / or exhibits increased elasticity, leading to more frequent breakage. Therefore, consumers seek compositions and processes to prevent or minimize such damage and / or repair hair that has been damaged by these treatments and processes.In particular, consumers want strong hair that does not break easily, that can be stretched or manipulated while retaining the ability to return to its original state without breaking (i.e., with reduced elasticity), that is soft and healthy to the touch, and that also looks shiny and healthy.

[0004] However, it has proven difficult to formulate compositions that satisfactorily meet these requirements. For example, some compositions that attempt to provide a solution merely coat the hair with compounds that may improve its feel and appearance; however, this approach is only temporary and superficial. Rather than preventing or repairing hair damage, this approach simply masks the damage until the next rinse or wash. Other compositions attempt to treat the damage within the hair fiber, but to date, these have not been satisfactory.

[0005] The present inventors have now discovered a synergistic combination of components that is remarkably effective in preventing or minimizing hair damage and treating damaged hair. Hair treated with compositions according to the disclosure shows remarkably reduced signs of damage, including increased strength and / or reduced elasticity, particularly hair that has been damaged by harsh chemical treatments, such as bleaching. SUMMARY

[0006] This disclosure relates to processes for treating keratin fibers, for example, human hair, for example, to prevent, minimize, and / or repair hair damage, such as damage caused by hair lightening (bleaching) compositions and processes. The compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure (“treatment compositions”) include a synergistic combination of one or more amino acids, one or more osmolytes, and one or more carboxylic acids, and the processes include the application of a treatment composition according to the disclosure to keratin fibers in connection with a hair lightening process.

[0007] In various embodiments, the hair treatment compositions that may be used comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) optionally at least one solvent. The pH of the treatment compositions is generally less than 7, or less than about 6, for example, from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.

[0008] In some embodiments, the processing compositions that can be used in processes according to the disclosure include at least one amino acid selected from basic amino acids, for example, arginine, histidine, lysine, their salts, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of basic amino acids and their salts ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably still from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of The composition. In other embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amino acid selected from acidic or neutral amino acids and their salts, for example, serine. In various embodiments, the total amount of acidic and / or neutral amino acids and their salts ranges from approximately 0.01% to approximately 5%, preferably from approximately 0.05% to approximately 4%, more preferably from approximately 0.1% to approximately 3%, and most preferably from approximately 0.25% to approximately 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise a mixture of basic, acidic, and / or neutral amino acids; for example, the compositions may comprise arginine and serine.In various embodiments, the total quantity of amino acids and their salts present in the composition ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0009] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions that can be used in the processes include one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of these (in particular, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and combinations of two or more of these.

[0010] In various embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, methylsulfonium compounds, polyamines, and / or amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II). In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the treatment composition ranges from approximately 0.01% to approximately 10%, preferably from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, more preferably from approximately 1.25% to approximately 4%, more preferably still from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, and most preferably from approximately 2% to approximately 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and the total amount of osmolytes which is greater than or equal to about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.

[0011] In various embodiments, at least one carboxylic acid is chosen from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, acid maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these, and preferably citric acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In various embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts may range from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In various embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.

[0012] The solvent may comprise water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent and, in some embodiments, comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent. Optionally, the treatment compositions comprise water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably selected from polyols, and have a total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranging from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 20%, more preferably from about 5% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 8% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] The processing compositions that can be used in the processes according to the disclosure may optionally also include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0014] In some embodiments, the processing compositions that can be used in the processes according to the disclosure include (a) at least one amino acid and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one betaine, preferably at least one compound of formula (II), for example glycine betaine, in an amount from about 1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one carboxylic acid and / or one of its salts, (d) at least one solvent, and (e) optionally at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof.For example, in at least some embodiments, the treatment composition includes arginine and the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and in which the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the treatment compositions is generally less than 7, for example, ranging from about 2 to about 5, or about . 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts, for example arginine, serine, their salts, or combinations thereof, and the total amount of betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II) and their salts, for example glycine betaine, which is greater than or equal to about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acids and their salts and the total quantity of carboxylic acids and their salts which is greater than about 0.5 or greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.

[0015] In preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise (a) at least one amino carboxylic acid or one of its salts, preferably selected from arginine and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one betaine derivative, preferably selected from glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid and / or their salts, and (d) water. For example, the composition may include (a) about 2% to about 6% arginine and / or one of its salts, (b) about 0.5% to about 3.5% glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably chosen from citric acid, lactic acid and / or their salts, (d) water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, and (e) optionally serine, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts is from about 2% to about 10%, and wherein all amounts are by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The pH of the treatment compositions is generally less than 7, for example, ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and glycine betaine greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably [missing information]. from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5. In some embodiments, the compositions include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof. If present, the compositions include serine in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 1%, and most preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.When compositions include serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to serine greater than about 2, preferably from about 2 to about 15, more preferably from about 4 to about 14, more preferably from about 6 to about 13, and most preferably from about 8 to about 12. When compositions include serine, the compositions may optionally have a weight ratio of glycine betaine to serine greater than about 2, preferably from about 2 to about 10, more preferably from about 3 to about 8, more preferably from about 3.5 to about 7, and most preferably from about 4 to about 6.

[0016] The methods include applying a treatment composition as disclosed to keratin fibers in connection with a hair lightening process. In various embodiments, the methods include applying a treatment composition to the hair before and / or after applying a bleaching composition to the hair, with or without rinsing between the application of the treatment composition and the bleaching composition. The treatment composition may also be applied to the hair concurrently with a bleaching composition, for example, by mixing the treatment composition and the bleaching composition before applying the mixture to the hair, or by applying the treatment composition and the bleaching composition separately to the hair at the same time.The bleaching compositions used according to the disclosure are not limited, and may be those typically used to lighten hair, for example, commercial bleaching compositions containing oxidizing and / or alkalizing agents. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0017] [Fig 1A-1B] Figures IA and IB are graphs representing the elasticity of the hair fibers of the strands SI to S8 after one treatment (IA) and five treatments (IB).

[0018] [Fig 2A-2B] Figures 2A and 2B are graphs representing the elasticity of the hair fibers of strands S9 to S16 after one treatment (2A) and five treatments (2B).

[0019] [Fig.3] Fig.3 is a graph representing the elasticity of the capillary fibers of S17 to S21 highlights after five treatments.

[0020] [Fig 4A-4B] Figures 4A and 4B are graphs representing the breaking stress of hair fibers treated with compositions according to disclosure and comparative compositions.

[0021] [Fig 5A-5B] Figures 5A and 5B show the structures of some examples of osmolytes that may be included in compositions according to disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0022] The disclosure relates to processes for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, for example to repair damaged keratin fibers, to provide strength to keratin fibers and / or to reduce the elasticity of keratin fibers, in connection with a keratin fiber lightening process. I. TREATMENT COMPOSITES

[0023] The treatment compositions comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, and (d) optionally at least one solvent. The treatment compositions may optionally comprise one or more additional components. Amino acids

[0024] The processing compositions that can be used in the processes according to the disclosure include at least one amino acid. Optionally, in various embodiments, the processing compositions according to the disclosure may include one, two, three, or more amino acids. The amino acids that may be chosen include those that are basic, acidic, or neutral at neutral pH. In preferred embodiments, the compositions include at least one basic amino acid.

[0025] As used herein, the term "amino acid" includes amino carboxylic acids and their salts, as well as aminosulfonic acids and their salts. As used herein, amino acids are understood to be organic compounds containing a carboxylic acid group (-COOH) (aminocarboxylic acids) and / or a sulfonic acid group (-S(=O)2-OH) (aminosulfonic acids) and an amino group (-NH2) which may be primary or secondary, or may be intracyclic, as well as a side chain (R group) specific to each amino acid.

[0026] Aminocarboxylic acids that may be chosen include, for example, alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and combinations of two or more of these. Examples of aminosulfonic acids include aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and combinations of two or more of these.

[0027] Amino acid salts are also included in the term "amino acid," whether or not this is explicitly stated. By way of non-limiting example, salts that may be chosen include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts.

[0028] Furthermore, amino acids can be of D, L or DL ​​configuration. In some preferred embodiments, it is advantageous to choose amino acids of L configuration, for example L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, L-lysine, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0029] In certain embodiments, it is particularly advantageous to select one or more aminocarboxylic acids. Thus, in various embodiments, the treatment compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids of formula (I): SOOH (!) H — C — R

[0030] in which:

[0031] - p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and

[0032] • when p = 1, R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring links, preferably 5 ring links, knowing that this ring can be substituted with one or more groups chosen from a hydroxyl or an alkyl group (in C1-C4); or

[0033] • when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (in C1-C12) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (in C1-C4), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.

[0034] In certain embodiments, when p = 1, R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring links, this ring not being substituted.

[0035] In some embodiments, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated alkyl group (C1-C4), linear or branched, optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring. In some embodiments, p is preferably 2.

[0036] In some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of these (in particular, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some embodiments, the amino acid compounds in the composition consist essentially of, or are composed of, amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of these (in particular, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more of these.

[0037] In some embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of proline and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of methionine and / or its salts.In other embodiments, the acid or amino acids useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of serine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the acid or amino acids useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist of. essentially consist of, or are composed of, arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or are composed of histidine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or are composed of lysine and / or its salts. In yet other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or be composed of basic amino acids and / or their salts.

[0038] In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids can range from about 0.1% to about 15%, such as from about 0.1% to about 12%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5.5%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4.5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3.5%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2.5%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 15%, from about 0.5% to about 12%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5.5%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4.5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1.5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1%, from approximately 1% to approximately 15%, from approximately 1% to approximately 12%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1% to approximately 2.5% from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 1.5%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5.5%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4.5%, from about 1%5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2.5% to about 3.5%, from about 2.5% to about 3%, from about 3% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, from about 3% to about 10%, from about 3% to about 9%, from about 3% to about 8%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3% to about 6%, from about 3% to about 5.5%, from about 3% to about 5%, from about 3% to about 4.5%, from about 3% to about 4%, from about 3% to about 3.5%, from about 3%,5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 4% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5%, from about 4% to about 4.5%, from about 4.5% to about 15%, from about 4.5% to about 12%, from about 4.5% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 9%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 4.5% to about 7%, from about 4.5% to about 6%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, or about 4.5% to about 5% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, or from about 4.8% to about 5.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amino acids may be approximately 4.5%, approximately 4.6%, approximately 4.7%, approximately 4.8%, approximately 4.9%, approximately 5.0%, approximately 5.1%, approximately 5.2%, approximately 5.3%, approximately 5.4%, or approximately 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits. In some preferred embodiments,The treatment compositions comprise a total quantity of basic amino acids within any of the aforementioned ranges and quantities.

[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the treatment compositions comprise arginine and / or one of its salts. In another preferred embodiment, where more than one amino acid is present, arginine is present in the treatment composition in an amount greater than the combined amounts of the other amino acid(s) present; for example, arginine comprises more than approximately 50%, such as more than approximately 60%, more than approximately 70%, more than approximately 80%, more than approximately 90%, more than approximately 95%, more than approximately 98%, or more than approximately 99% of all the amino acids present in the composition. In yet another preferred embodiment, arginine is the only basic amino acid in the treatment composition.

[0040] In various preferred embodiments, the treatment composition comprises arginine in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 10%, such as from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, preferably from about 3% to about 7%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, more preferably from about 4% to about 6%, more preferably from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, more preferably still from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, even more preferably from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, and most preferably from about 4.8% to about 5.2%, or may be present in an amount of about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, or about 4.9%, approximately 5.0%, approximately 5.1%, approximately 5.2%, approximately 5.3%, approximately 5.4% or approximately 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,including all ranges and subranges using any previous values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0041] In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise serine and / or one of its salts. If present, the amount of serine can range from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2%, such as approximately 0.01% to approximately 1.5%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 1%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.4%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.3%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.2%, approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.1%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 1.5%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.5%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.4%, approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.3%, and approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.2%. from about 0.05% to about 0.1%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1% or from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, in some preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions may include serine in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, and most preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, such as about 0.1%, about 0.25%, about 0.5%, about 0.75%, or about 1. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any previous values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0042] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to select at least one basic amino acid and at least one additional amino acid selected from among the acidic and / or neutral amino acids. For example, in preferred embodiments, it may be advantageous to include at least one basic amino acid and serine in compositions according to the disclosure, and to select total amounts of basic amino acids and serine such that the treatment composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of basic amino acids and the total amount of serine that is greater than about 2, such as greater than about 3, greater than about 4, greater than about 5, or greater than about 6.For example, the treatment composition may have a weight ratio between the total amount of basic amino acids and the total amount of serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, for example from about 4 to about 14, from about 6 to about 13, from about 8 to about 12, or from about 9 to about 11. In other examples, the weight ratio between the total amount of basic amino acids and serine may be about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11 or about 12.In some preferred embodiments, the treatment composition includes serine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or from about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0043] In still other preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise serine and arginine, and have a weight ratio of arginine to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits. Osmolytes

[0044] Osmolytes are molecules, typically of lower molecular weight, used by cells to maintain cell volume, regulate osmotic pressure, and maintain cellular homeostasis, for example, in response to environmental stressors. Organic osmolytes include aminocarboxylic acids, aminosulfonic acids, their salts and derivatives, carbohydrates such as sugars and sugar alcohols (polyols), polyamines, betaines, and methylsulfonium compounds (e.g., dimethylsulfoniopropionate) and urea. For the purposes of this disclosure, "osmolytes" include aminocarboxylic acid derivatives, aminosulfonic acid derivatives, and salts of derivatives (collectively referred to herein as "amino acid derivatives"), but do not include aminocarboxylic acids, aminosulfonic acids, or their salts that are described above, and do not include polyols.

[0045] The treatment compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more osmolytes, preferably one or more organic osmolytes. In some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise more than one osmolyte. Without wishing to elaborate on this, it is believed that the use of osmolytes according to the disclosure allows the treated hair to maintain a moisture balance, thereby reducing potential damage to the hair, or to restore a moisture balance to already damaged hair, enabling the treated hair to recover reduced strength and / or elasticity associated with healthy hair.

[0046] In preferred embodiments, the useful osmolytes are chosen from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, amino acid derivatives such as betaines, and more preferably are chosen from compounds of formula (II) or their salts:

[0047] (Rl)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (II)

[0048] in which:

[0049] - RI, R2 and R3 are chosen independently from among the alkyl groups in C1-C4, of preferentially alkyl groups in C1-C2, more preferentially methyl;

[0050] - A is N or S;

[0051] - m and n are independently 0 or 1;

[0052] - X is a divalent alkyl group (= an alkylene group), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl (-OH) or an amino (-NH2); and

[0053] - Y is -COO- or -OSO3-;

[0054] provided that:

[0055] • when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2;

[0056] • when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl (in C1-C8) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (at C1-C4); and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, knowing that this ring can be substituted with one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl or an alkyl group (at C1-C4); and

[0057] • when A is N and m = 1, then R4 and R5 are selected independently from a hydrogen atom or hydrocarbon chain (in C1-C10), saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (in C1-C6), more preferably (in C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.

[0058] The useful, but not limiting, polyamine compounds may include primary and / or secondary and / or tertiary and / or quaternary amine functional groups. By way of example, polyamines that may be selected include diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, and polymeric polyamines or polyimines, such as, for example, rhexamethylenediamine, diethylenetetramine, diethylenetriamine, a polyethyleneimine (PEI), a polyvinylamine, a polyetheramine, a polylysine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, cadaverine, spermidine, spermine, putrescine, tetraethylmethylenediamine, triethylenetetramine, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the useful polyamines are selected from putrescine, spermidine, and / or spermine.

[0059] Useful, but not limiting, examples of betaines include glycine betaine, valine betaine, alanine betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, etc. Salts of betaines may also be used and are expressly included in the term "betaine" unless otherwise expressly stated. In particularly preferred embodiments, the betaines are selected from those corresponding to formula (II). Examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include the compounds shown in Figures 5A and 5B. As shown in [Fig. 5A], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) are in zwitterionic form, and as shown in [Fig. 5B], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) have a corresponding counterion, X.The counterion is not limited and can be any suitable counterion, for example a chloride ion, a bromide ion, an iodide ion, a sulfate anion, a sulfonate anion, a methylsulfate anion, a phosphate anion, a nitrate anion, etc. Thus, as used here, a "compound of formula (II)" expressly includes both the ionic form of the compound and the salt forms, whether or not this is specified.

[0060] As shown in Figures 5A and 5B, examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include betaine and betaine derivatives (hereinafter referred to as "betaines"), for example valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyllysine, glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), histidine betaine, N-methylhistidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine and / or dimethylsulfoniopropionate. In a preferred embodiment, the osmolyte is glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), alone or in combination with one or more additional osmolytes, for example one or more additional compounds of formula (II).

[0061] In some preferred embodiments, the processing compositions that can be used according to the disclosure include at least one compound of formula (II). In additional preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include one or more compounds of formula (II), i.e., a zwitterionic amino acid derivative bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising a total of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0062] In some preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = methyl; A is N; and / or Y is COO-. In some other preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which R3 is a methyl. In other preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a group selected from a hydroxyl or an amino group.In other preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as a methylene or an ethylene. In other preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one compound of formula (II) in which R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a saturated alkyl group (in Cl-ClO), linear or branched, preferably an alkyl (in C1-C6), more preferably an alkyl (in C1-C4); a phenyl group; a benzyl group; an alkyl group substituted with a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono- or bi-cyclic); a group. cyclic (saturated or unsaturated, mono- or bi-cyclic) substituted with an alkyl group; all these groups being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from a hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2; more preferably where R4 is a hydrogen and / or where R5 is a hydrogen atom or a saturated (C1-C6) alkyl, linear or branched, more preferably an alkyl (C1-C4); optionally substituted with a group selected from a hydroxyl (-OH), an amino (-NH2), -COOH, or -C0NH2. In some preferred embodiments, when A is N and m = 0, R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring links, preferably 5 to 6 ring links, optionally substituted with a hydroxy group.In more preferred embodiments, RI = R2 = methyl, A is N, Y is COO-, and X (if present) is a divalent alkyl group which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms.

[0063] In a preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = R3 = methyl; A is N; Y is COO-; X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a group selected from a hydroxyl or an amino, more preferably of 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as a methylene or an ethylene; R4 is a hydrogen; and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring links, preferably from 5 to 6 ring links, optionally substituted with a hydroxy group.

[0064] In preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the treatment composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more of the compounds shown in Figures 5A and 5B. In more preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise trimethylglycine (interchangeably called glycine betaine), optionally in combination with at least one additional osmolyte, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the treatment composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of glycine betaine optionally with at least one additional compound of formula (II).

[0065] Useful, but not limiting, examples of carbohydrate sugars that may be used include C3-C6 monosaccharides, for example pentoses and / or their derivatives, or hexoses and / or their derivatives. For example, sugars may optionally be chosen from xylose, arabinose, ribose, 2-deoxyribose, ribulose, the deoxyribulose, arabinose, xylulose, allose, altrose, glucose (including dextrose), glucosamine, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, tagatose, or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some embodiments, the sugars are selected from disaccharides, for example sucrose, maltose, lactose, cellobiose, trehalose, dextran, or from polysaccharides, for example maltotriose, starch, dextrins, cellulose, glycogen, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the sugars are preferably chosen from trehalose, glucose, sucrose, fructose, fructans, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0066] In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the treatment composition can range from about 0.01% to about 15%, such as, for example, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%. %, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 1%, from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1% to approximately 5%from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1% to approximately 2%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2,5% to approximately 6%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 5%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of osmolytes present in the treatment composition may be approximately 2.0%, approximately 2.1%, approximately 2.2%, approximately 2.3%, approximately 2.4%, of about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9% or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0067] In preferred embodiments, the treatment composition comprises at least one betaine, and the total amount of betaines ranges from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example, from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or may be about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9% or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any previous values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0068] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises glycine betaine in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example, from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or glycine betaine may be present in an amount of about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, approximately 2.9%, or approximately 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.

[0069] In certain embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose the quantities of amino acids and osmolytes so as to obtain a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acid(s) and their salts in the treatment composition and the total quantity of osmolytes in the treatment composition that is greater than about 0.1, for example, greater than about 0.2, greater than about 0.5, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In various embodiments, the weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acid(s) and their salts and the total quantity of osmolytes can range from about 0.1 to about 10, such as from about 0.2 to about 8, from about 0.5 to about 6, from about 1 to about 5, from about 1.2 to approximately 4, or from approximately 1.5 to approximately 3.5. In other embodiments, the weight ratio between the quantity total amino acid(s) and their salts and total osmolyte quantity can range from more than 1 to about 4, such as from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) in the treatment composition and the total amount of osmolytes in the treatment composition may be about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4 or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower bounds.

[0070] In some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise a total amount of amino acids selected from compounds of formula (I), and a total amount of osmolytes selected from compounds of formula (II) such that a weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):components of formula (II) is greater than about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1, for example, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):components of formula (II) in the composition may range from about 0.5 to about 6, for example, from about 1 to about 4, from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2.For example, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) in the composition may be about 0.5, about 0.6, about 0.7, about 0.8, about 0.9, about 1, about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4 or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower bounds.

[0071] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises arginine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of arginine to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example ranging from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In another particularly preferred embodiment, the treatment composition comprises arginine, serine, and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of [arginine + serine] to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example, ranging from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. Carboxylic acids

[0072] The treatment compositions that can be used in the processes according to the disclosure include at least one carboxylic acid. Optionally, the treatment compositions may include at least two carboxylic acids, at least three carboxylic acids, etc. According to various embodiments of the disclosure, the useful carboxylic acids include organic compounds that comprise, for example, one (mono-), two (di-), three (tri-) acid functional groups or more and at least one carbon atom.

[0073] The carboxylic acids that may be used may optionally have a molecular weight less than approximately 500 g / mol, less than approximately 400 g / mol, less than approximately 300 g / mol, or less than approximately 200 g / mol. In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids have a molecular weight less than approximately 300 g / mol, or less than approximately 200 g / mol.

[0074] Salts of carboxylic acids may also be used and are expressly included in the term "carboxylic acid" unless otherwise specified. Salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred in some embodiments, and in particular sodium salts.

[0075] In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 14 carbon atoms. In some preferred embodiments, the processing compositions comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and / or one of their salts. These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid-type compounds described above. The useful (poly)acids comprise at least one -COOH group (in acidic or salt form); They can thus include a single -COOH group (monoacid) or can include more than one -COOH group, for example two (in acid or salified form), or two or three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form) (polyacids).Useful (poly)acids also include at least one -OH group, such as one to three or two to three -OH groups, for example one, two or three -OH groups. Preferably, (poly)acids comprise a total of 2 to 8 or 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and two. with three -OH groups, and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably saturated and linear. In some preferred embodiments, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise a total of 3 to 6 carbon atoms, one to three -OH groups, and two to three -COOH groups (in acid or salt form). Unless otherwise specified, as used herein, the term "(poly)acid" includes both monoacids and polyacids.

[0076] Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids that may be chosen include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lactic acid and / or one of its salts.

[0077] Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids that may be selected include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the treatment compositions may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0078] Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of citric acid and / or one of its salts.

[0079] In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In particularly preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids are selected from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts.In certain embodiments, it may be particularly advantageous to choose citric acid, lactic acid and / or tartaric acid and / or their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; preferably citric acid and / or its salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.

[0080] The total amount of carboxylic acid(s) can range from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 1% to about 15%, such as from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5.5%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4.5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3.5%, about 1% to about 3%, about 1% to about 2.5%, about 1% to about 2%, about 1% to about 1.5%, about 1.5% to about 15%, about 1.5% to about 12%, about 1.5% to about 10%, about 1.5% to about 9%, about 1.5% to about 8%, about 1.5% to about 7%, about 1.5% to about 6%, about 1.5% to about 5.5%, about 1.5% to about 5%, about 1,5% to approximately 4.5%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 4%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 3.5%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 2.5%, approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, approximately 2% to approximately 15%, approximately 2% to approximately 12%, approximately 2% to approximately 10%, approximately 2% to approximately 9%, approximately 2% to approximately 8%, approximately 2% to approximately 7%, approximately 2% to approximately 6%, approximately 2% to approximately 5.5%, approximately 2% to approximately 5%, approximately 2% to approximately 4.5%, approximately 2% to approximately 4%, approximately 2% to approximately 3.5%, approximately 2% to approximately 3%, approximately 2% to approximately 2.5%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 15%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 12%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 10%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 9%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 7%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 6%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 5.5%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 5%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 4.5%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 3.5%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 3%, approximately 3% to approximately 15%, approximately 3% to approximately 12%approximately 3% to approximately 10%, approximately 3% to approximately 9%, approximately 3% to approximately 8%, approximately 3% to approximately 7%, approximately 3% to approximately 6%, approximately 3% to approximately 5.5%, approximately 3% to approximately 5%, approximately 3% to approximately 4.5%, approximately 3% to approximately 4%, approximately 3% to approximately 3.5%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 15%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 12%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 10%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 9%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 8%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 7%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 6%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 5.5%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 5%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 4.5%, approximately 3.5% to approximately 4%, approximately 4% to approximately 15%, approximately 4% to approximately 12%, approximately 4% to approximately 10%, approximately 4% to approximately 9%, approximately 4% to approximately 8%, approximately 4% to approximately 7%, approximately 4% to approximately 6%, approximately 4% to approximately 5.5%, approximately 4% to approximately 5%, approximately 4% to approximately 4.5%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 15%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 12%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 10%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 9%approximately 4.5% to approximately 8%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 7%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 6%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 5.5%, approximately 4.5% to approximately 5%, approximately 5% Approximately 15%, approximately 5%, approximately 12%, approximately 5%, approximately 10%, approximately 9%, approximately 5%, approximately 8%, approximately 7%, approximately 6.5%, approximately 6%, approximately 5%, approximately 5.5%, approximately 15%, approximately 12%, approximately 5.5%, approximately 10%, approximately 9%, approximately 8%, approximately 7%, approximately 6.5%, approximately 15%, approximately 10%, approximately 8%, approximately 7%, approximately 6%, approximately 15%, approximately 12%, approximately 10%, approximately 9%, approximately 8%, approximately 7%, or approximately 6%, approximately 6% % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] In preferred embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acid(s) ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 5% to about 7%, from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, or from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, in some preferred embodiments, the treatment composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a total amount of carboxylic acids and salts ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, preferably from about 4.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably still from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, and most preferably from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] In certain embodiments, it may be advantageous to choose quantities of amino acids and carboxylic acids such that the treatment composition has a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acids and the total quantity of carboxylic acids greater than about 0.75. For example, in various embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acids and the total quantity of carboxylic acids greater than about 0.8, such as greater than about 0.9, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.1, greater than about 1.2, greater than about 1.3, greater than about 1.4, or greater than about 1.5.In some embodiments, the treatment composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids to the total amount of carboxylic acids ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, for example, from about 0.8 to about 1.5, from about 0.8 to about 1.35, or from about 0.8 to about 1.2. In some preferred embodiments, the treatment composition comprises arginine and at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof. presents a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acids and their salts and the total quantity of carboxylic acids and their salts ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.35, and most preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.2. Solvents

[0083] The treatment compositions that can be used in the processes according to the disclosure include at least one solvent. In various embodiments, the solvent can be chosen from water, non-aqueous solvents, or a combination thereof.

[0084] In preferred embodiments, the solvent includes water. In some embodiments, the treatment composition comprises from about 50% to about 98% water, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the treatment composition comprises water in an amount ranging from at least 50% by weight to about 95% by weight, such as about 50% to about 90%, about 55% to about 90%, about 60% to about 90% by weight, or about 60% to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] In other embodiments, the solvent may include at least one non-aqueous solvent. Non-limiting examples of non-aqueous solvents that may be used include, for example, glycerin, C1.4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, lamellar lipid materials, or combinations thereof.The non-aqueous solvent may be chosen from among organic solvents, for example monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl-, monoethyl- and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether.

[0086] Preferably, the compositions comprise at least one polyol. The polyols may be selected from diols and triols. In other embodiments, the polyols may be selected from C2-C16 polyols, such as C2-C12, C2-C8, or C3-C8 polyols. In various embodiments, the polyols that may be used are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted. Thus, in various embodiments, one or more polyols may be selected from C2-C16, C2-C12, or C2-C8 diols. or C3-C8, or triols in C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8 or C3-C8, either of which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.

[0087] By way of non-limiting example, polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl-, monoethyl- and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol may be chosen. In some embodiments, the polyols are selected from propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-Dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-l,2-diol, 2-ethyl-l,3-hexanediol, 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol, or combinations of two or more of these.In some preferred embodiments, the polyols are selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and combinations of two or more of these. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the solvent comprises at least one polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, glycerin, or combinations of two or more of these.In at least some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more C2-C16 diols and / or C2-C16 triols, for example C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols. In other preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more glycols, for example propylene glycol and / or dipropylene glycol, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dipropylene glycol.

[0088] If present, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents in the treatment composition may range from approximately 0.1% to approximately 20%, such as from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 15%, or from approximately 2% to approximately 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably selected from polyols.In some embodiments, the treatment composition comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, wherein the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 0.5% to about 18%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 11%, and most preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally further wherein the non-aqueous solvent comprises at least one solvent selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, or mixtures of two or more of these, preferably selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a a mixture of two or more of these. Surfactants

[0089] The treatment compositions that can be used in the processes according to the disclosure may optionally include at least one surfactant. For example, the treatment compositions may include one or more cationic and / or amphoteric surfactants, and in some embodiments, the compositions may include mixtures of surfactants having the same or different ionicities.

[0090] Although the treatment compositions may optionally include one or more anionic and / or non-ionic surfactants, in at least some embodiments the compositions are free or substantially free of anionic and / or non-ionic surfactants. For example, in some embodiments, the compositions comprise less than about 3%, such as less than about 2.5%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.75%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1.25%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.75%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.25%, less than about 0.2%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.05%, less than about 0.01%, or less than about 0.001% of anionic and / or non-ionic surfactants.

[0091] In at least some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant. The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that is positively charged when contained in the composition(s) as disclosed. This surfactant may carry one or more charges permanent positives or may contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition as disclosed. Non-limiting examples of useful cationic surfactants include brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyldimethylethylbenzylammonium chloride (Quatemium-14), Quatemium-22, Quaternium-26, Quatemium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethyl chloride hydrochloride, cysteine ​​hydrochloride, diethanolammonium phosphate POE (10) oleyl ether, diethanolammonium phosphate POE (3) oleylether, alkonium tallow chloride,dimethyldioctadecylammonium bentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquatemium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyltrihydroxyethylpropylenediamine dihydrofluoride, suiftrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, or combinations thereof. In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant selected from brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylamine,or combinations of two or more of these.

[0092] If present, the total amount of cationic surfactants may be up to approximately 10%, such as up to approximately 9%, up to approximately 8%, up to approximately 7%, up to approximately 6%, up to approximately 5%, up to approximately 4%, up to approximately 3.5%, up to approximately 3%, up to approximately 2.5%, up to approximately 2%, up to approximately 1.5%, up to approximately 1%, or up to approximately 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of cationic surfactants may be from approximately 0.001% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 6%, or from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In at least some preferred embodiments, the processing compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant, and have a total amount of cationic surfactants ranging from about 0.25% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6%. %, and most preferably about 1% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] In at least some embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one amphoteric surfactant. Non-limiting examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include secondary and tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives where the aliphatic radical may be a linear or branched chain and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group, such as a carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate. Examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium cocaminopropionate, sodium cocaminodipropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium maize amphopropionate, sodium lauraminopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium maize amphopropionate,sodium lauriminodipropionate, ammonium cocaminopropionate, ammonium cocaminodipropionate, ammonium cocoamphoacetate, ammonium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium cocoamphopropionate, ammonium cornamphopropionate, ammonium lauraminopropionate, ammonium lauroamphoacetate, ammonium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium maizemphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocaminopropionate, triethanolamine cocaminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocoamphoacetate, triethanolamine cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine cocoamphopropionate, triethanolamine maizemphopropionate, triethanolamine lauraminopropionate, triethanolamine lauroamphoacetate, the triethanolamine lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine lauroamphopropionate, triethanolamine cornamphopropionate,triethanolamine lauriminodipropionate, cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium caproamphoodiacetate, disodium caproamphoadipropionate, disodium capryloamphoodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodipriopionate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium cocoamphoodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium dicarboxyethylcocopropylenediamine, disodium laureth-5 carboxyamphodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium PPG-2-isodecethyl-7 carboxyamphodiacetate, lauraminopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid, , laurylaminopropylglycine and lauryldiethylenediaminoglycine.

[0094] Betaine-type surfactants can also be used. For example, cocodimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, lauryldimethyl alphacarboxyethyl betaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, cetyldimethyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethyl betaine, stearylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)carboxymethyl betaine, oleyldimethylgamma-carboxypropyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, cocodimethylsulfopropyl betaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropyl betaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethyl betaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)sulfopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine or cocamidopropyl betaine may be chosen.

[0095] If present, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be from about 0.001% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In at least some embodiments, the treatment compositions are free or substantially free of amphoteric surfactants. Fatty compounds

[0096] Optionally, the processing compositions that can be used in the processes according to the disclosure may include at least one fatty compound. In some embodiments, the at least one fatty compound may be selected from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal, silicone and non-silicone oils, silicone and non-silicone waxes, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0097] In some embodiments, the treatment compositions include at least one fatty compound selected from volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, which may optionally be aminofunctionalized. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils that may be used include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyltrimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. For example, the composition may include at least one silicone chosen from among amodimethicone, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-3 / 10 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-4 / 12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-10 dimethicone phosphate, or a mixture of two or more of these. In some preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions include a silicone oil component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dimethicone, amodimethicone, or a mixture thereof.

[0098] By way of further examples, silicone oil may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylsilicones, such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenyl(methyl-diphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.

[0099] In some embodiments, the treatment compositions include at least one fatty compound selected from fatty alcohols. In some embodiments, "fatty alcohol" refers to any alcohol with a carbon chain of C5 or higher, such as, for example, C8 or higher, C10 or higher, or C12 or higher, such as from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated or non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.

[0100] By way of example, fatty alcohols may be selected from arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, or combinations of two or more of these. In some preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions include a fatty alcohol component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

[0101] The useful, but not limiting, fatty acids may be linear- or branched-chain fatty acids and / or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids, as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include, or be selected from, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, or combinations thereof.

[0102] In certain embodiments, fatty acid esters or fatty alcohol esters may be chosen. For example, esters of C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched mono- or poly-aliphatic acids and of mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols C1-C26 aliphatics, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, with the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10, may be used. In other embodiments, C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and C2-C26 mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra-, or pentahydroxyalcohols, may also be used. By way of non-limiting examples, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methyl acetylricinoleate, myristyle stearate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate,octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyle or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, adipate diisopropyl, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoylstearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate,Propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, and / or polyethylene glycol distearates may be selected. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one fatty acid ester and / or one fatty alcohol ester, for example, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.

[0103] In some embodiments, the processing compositions comprise at least one wax. Non-limiting examples of waxes that may be used include beeswax, hydrogenated olive alkyl esters, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax, rice wax, rice bran wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, hydrogenated palm kernel glycerides / palm glycerides, palm butter, sumac wax, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax, and seed butter. Theobroma grandiflorum, sunflower seed wax, siliconyl candelilla wax, China wax, cetyl palmitate, lanolin, shellac, spermaceti, cetyl esters, hydrogenated castor wax; triglyceride esters such as tribehenin (glyceryl tribehenate); synthetic waxes such as hydrocarbon waxes and polyethylene waxes obtained by the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, polypropylene waxes, or mixtures of two or more of any of these waxes. In some preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions include a wax component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl esters.

[0104] In certain embodiments, the treatment composition comprises one or more fatty compounds selected from oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin (for example, lanolin, squalene, fish oil, perhydrosqualene, mink oil, tortoiseshell oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, cucumber oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, candlenut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, or shea butter), linear or branched hydrocarbons (for example, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, or also linear alkanes,branched and / or cyclic which are facultatively volatile such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane), mono- and / or poly-esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols (for example, mono- and poly-esters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, C5-C9 dipentaerythrityl esters, trimethylolpropane polyesters, propylene glycol polyesters, or hydrogenated castor oil polyesters), perfluorinated and / or organofluorinated oils, fluorosilicone oils, or mixtures of two or more of these. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids that may be used include facultatively branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, or mixtures of two or more of these.

[0105] If present, the total amount of fatty compounds in the treatment composition may range from approximately 0.1% to approximately 20%, such as from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, or from approximately 5% to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the treatment compositions comprise at least one fatty compound selected from silicone oils, fatty alcohols, waxes or combinations thereof, where the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 15%, more preferably from about 3% to about 12%, and most preferably from about 5% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening agents

[0106] The processing compositions that may be used in the processes according to the disclosure optionally include at least one thickening agent.Useful thickening agents include, but are not limited to, semi-synthetic polymers, such as semi-synthetic cellulosic derivatives; synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers and beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymers; acrylate copolymers; polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEL10); natural polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, petroleum jelly, waxes, associated particulate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide and microcrystalline cellulose, celluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, and guars such as hydroxypropyl guar.

[0107] In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be selected from associative thickening polymers, such as anionic associative polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative polymers, or nonionic associative polymers. A non-limiting example of an amphoteric associative polymer is beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymer, and non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include acrylate copolymer and acrylates-4 crosslinked polymer.

[0108] If present, the total amount of thickening agents may range from about 0.01% to about 8%, such as from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.3% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Direct dyes

[0109] Optionally, the hair treatment compositions according to the disclosure include one or more direct dyes. Direct dyes, which differ from oxidative dyes, diffuse superficially onto the hair fibers.

[0110] The direct dyes that may be selected include natural and synthetic direct dyes, which may be cationic, anionic, or nonionic. Useful examples of direct dyes include azo direct dyes, (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines, and styryl, Carbonyl dyes, azine dyes, nitro(hetero)aryl dyes, tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes, porphyrin dyes, phthalocyanine dyes, xanthene direct dyes, triarylmethane dyes, natural direct dyes, and combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the direct dyes are selected from those that include at least one halogenated aromatic ring.

[0111] In some embodiments, the direct dyes are selected from anionic direct dyes. Anionic direct dyes are also called "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity for alkaline substances. Anionic direct dyes may be selected from acidic nitrate direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azinic dyes, acidic triarylmethanic dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids, and natural acid dyes, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0112] Des exemples non limitatifs de teintures anioniques incluent Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3, Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2, Food yellow 3 ou sunset yellow, Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38, ou des combinaisons de deux ou plus de celles-ci.A titre d'exemples supplémentaires, des teintures anioniques azoïques telles que Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, et Acid Yellow 17 ; les teintures d'anthraquinone telles que Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3, Purple EXT No. 2, et Acid Black 48 ; les teintures d'anthraquinone telles que Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3, Purple EXT No.2, and Acid Black 48; triarylmethane tinctures such as Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 49, Acid green 3, Acid green 5, and Acid Green 50; xanthene-derived tinctures such as Acid Yellow 73, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, and Acid Violet 9; indole-derived tinctures such as Acid Blue 74; and quinoline-derived tinctures such as Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 48. 3, and Acid Yellow 5, or combinations of two or more of these, may be chosen.

[0113] Non-limiting examples of cationic direct dyes, also called "basic" direct dyes, include Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0114] Natural direct tinctures include, but are not limited to, lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins, or combinations of two or more of these. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural tinctures, and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts, may also be used.

[0115] According to certain embodiments, the direct ionic dye(s) is / are selected from blue or violet dyes such as Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43 (also called EXT violet No. 2), Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 9, Acid Blue 74, Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, or combinations of two or more of these, preferably Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 9 and Basic Violet 2, more preferably Ext. Violet 2, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 9, or combinations of two or more of these.

[0116] If present, the total amount of direct dyes may range from about 0.001% to about 10%, such as from about 0.001% to about 5%, from about 0.001% to about 3%, from about 0.001% to about 2%, from about 0.001% to about 1%, from about 0.005% to about 5%, from about 0.005% to about 3%, from about 0.005% to about 2%, from about 0.005% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, or from about 0.01% to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Auxiliary components

[0117] The processing compositions that may be used in the processes according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more auxiliary components. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, ceramides, botanical extracts, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, buffers, sequestering agents, and the like.

[0118] The total quantity of auxiliary components, if present, is typically from about 0.01% to about 10%, relative to the total weight of the processing composition. For example, in some embodiments, the individual quantities of each component or the total quantity of components may range from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3%, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the processing composition.

[0119] The treatment compositions that can be used in the processes according to the disclosure typically have a pH less than or equal to 7, such as less than or equal to about 6, less than or equal to about 5, less than or equal to about 4.5, or less than or equal to about 4. For example, the treatment compositions may have a pH ranging from about 1 to about 7, such as from about 2 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5, from about 2.5 to about 5, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3 to about 4. In some embodiments, the pH of the composition may be, for example, about 3, about 3.25, about 3.5, about 3.75, or about 4, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0120] Treatment compositions may be in any suitable form. For example, suitable treatment compositions may be in the form of a liquid, a gel, a gel-cream, a high, medium or low density cream, a serum, a lotion, etc. II. Bleaching Composition

[0121] Compositions and processes for lightening or bleaching hair are well known. It is envisaged that the treatment compositions described herein may be used with any compositions and processes for bleaching. Typically, a bleaching composition is prepared at or near the time of its use by mixing a base bleaching composition with an oxidizing composition. The resulting mixture (the bleaching composition) is applied to the hair in the desired manner (for example, to achieve all-over hair lightening or to obtain highlights), left to act for a period of time necessary to lighten the hair color to the desired degree, a period which may, for example, range from about 10 minutes to about one hour, and then the bleaching composition is removed from the hair by rinsing.

[0122] Although the intention is not to limit the basic bleaching compositions that may be used in the processes according to the disclosure, the compositions of Typical bleaching bases include one or more persulfate compounds, one or more silicate compounds, one or more oxidizing agents, and one or more alkalizing agents. Conventional bleaching base compositions may also include additional components, such as oils, thickeners, solvents, or the like. In various embodiments, the bleaching base compositions may be in the form of a solid, a powder, a gel, a paste, etc. In some typical embodiments, the bleaching base composition is powdered and contains less than 1%, less than 0.5%, or less than 0.1% water.

[0123] For example, persulfate compounds that may be present in a bleaching base composition include potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate, or mixtures thereof. Persulfate compounds are typically present in an amount of at least about 10%, such as at least about 20%, at least about 30%, at least about 40%, or at least about 50%, for example, from about 20% to about 70%, from about 30% to about 65%, from about 45% to about 65%, from about 40% to about 60%, from about 50% to about 60%, or from about 50% to about 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the bleaching base composition.

[0124] Silicates that may be present in the basic bleaching compositions include lithium, sodium and potassium silicates, metasilicates and / or disilicates, such as aluminium silicate, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminium silicate, calcium silicate, barium silicate, strontium silicate, potassium silicate, potassium metasilicate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, or mixtures thereof.Typically, the total amount of silicates ranges from about 1% to about 40%, such as from about 1% to about 35%, from about 1% to about 30%, from about 1% to about 25%, from about 1% to about 20%, from about 5% to about 40%, from about 5% to about 35%, from about 5% to about 30%, from about 5% to about 25%, from about 5% to about 20%, from about 10% to about 40%, from about 10% to about 35%, from about 10% to about 30%, from about 10% to about 25%, from about 10% to about 20%, from about 15% to about 40%, from about 15% to about 35%, from about 15% to about 30%, from about 15% to approximately 25%, or approximately 15% to approximately 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the base bleaching composition.

[0125] In some cases, the basic bleaching compositions optionally include one or more oxidizing agents in addition to the persulfate compounds. For example, the one or more additional oxidizing agents may be selected from perborates, percarbonates, their salts, or mixtures thereof. In some cases, the basic bleaching compositions include one or more elements from the alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, redox enzymes such as laccases, peroxidases, or 2-electron oxidoreductases, such as uricase. If present, the total amount of additional oxidizing agents is typically about 5% to about 45%, such as about 5% to about 40%, about 5% to about 35%, about 5% to about 30%, about 5% to about 25%, about 5% to about 20%, about 5% to about 15%, or about 5% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the base decolorizing composition.

[0126] The basic compositions for hair bleaching may also include one or more alkali agents other than silicate compounds. For example, alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine; organic amines such as 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (AMP), 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, and guanidine; salts of the aforementioned compounds; or combinations of two or more of these may be used. In other cases, additional alkali agents may include inorganic alkali agents such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium carbonate hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, ammonium carbonate, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, or magnesium carbonate.If present, the total amount of additional alkaline agents typically ranges from about 0.1% to about 20%, such as from about 0.1% to about 15%, from about 0.1% to about 13%, from about 0.1% to about 11%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 13%, from about 1% to about 11%, from about 3% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 13%, from about 3% to about 11%, from about 5% to about 15%, from about 5% to about 13%, or from about 5% to about 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the base bleaching composition.

[0127] In some cases, the basic bleaching compositions may include one or more thickening agents, such as, for example, carboxylic acid / carboxylate copolymers, hydrophobically modified crosslinked copolymers of alkyl carboxylic acid and carboxylate vinyl polymers, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, nitrocellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powder, polyvinylpyrrolidone, poly(vinyl alcohol), guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, xanthan gum, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, locust bean gum, karaya gum, carrageenan, pectin, agar, starch, algal colloids, starch-based polymers, a methylhydroxypropyl starch, alginic acid-based polymers, propylene glycol esters, polyethyleneimine, bentonite, magnesium aluminum silicate, laponite, hectonite, anhydrous silicic acid, or combinations of two or more of these. If present, the total amount of thickening agents may vary, but generally ranges from about 0.1% to about 10%, such as from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 12%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 4%, or from about 1% to about 3% by weight, compared to the total weight of the base bleaching composition.

[0128] In some cases, the basic bleaching compositions include one or more oils. The oils may be of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons, facultatively branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids, facultatively branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols, mono- and / or poly-esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, perfluorinated and / or organofluorinated oils, volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, fluorosilicone oils, or combinations of two or more of these. For example, liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, mineral oils, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, or linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes that are optionally volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, may be used.If present, the total amount of oils is typically less than about 5%, such as about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about 4%, about 0.1% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2%, or about 0.1% to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the base bleaching composition.

[0129] Typically, basic bleaching compositions include one or more auxiliary components such as, for example, preservatives, cationic revitalizing compounds including cationic revitalizing polymers, rheology modifying agents, chelating agents, fatty substances, perfumes, dyes, fillers, amino acids, surfactants (cationic, anionic, non-ionic and / or amphoteric), moisture absorbers, anti-dust agents, ceramides, pH correcting agents, etc.

[0130] Before applying the basic bleaching composition to the hair, it is generally mixed with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and a suitable cosmetic carrier, for example water. Typically, oxidizing compositions may include additional components such as, for example, rheology modifiers, chelators, fatty substances, ceramides, pH correctors, preservatives, perfumes, surfactants, etc.

[0131] For example, the oxidizing agent may be hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, alkali metal ferricyanides, or persalts such as perborates and persulfates. The total amount of oxidizing agent and carrier may vary depending on the desired strength of the oxidizing composition. For example, the total amount of oxidizing agent may be from about 1% to about 40%, such as about 1% to about 30%, about 1% to about 20%, about 1% to about 15%, about 1% to about 12%, about 3% to about 20%, about 3% to about 15%, about 3% to about 12%, about 5% to about 20%, about 5% to about 15%, about 5% to about 12%, about 7% to about 20%, about 7% to about 15%, about 7% to about 12%, about 9% to about 20%, about 9% to about 15%, or about 9% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.In some cases, the oxidizing composition is aqueous, and the oxidizing agent comprises, consists primarily of, or consists of hydrogen peroxide. For example, hydrogen peroxide may be present in an amount ranging from approximately 5% to approximately 20%, such as approximately 7% to approximately 15%, approximately 8% to approximately 13%, approximately 8% to approximately 10%, approximately 9% to approximately 13%, or approximately 10% to approximately 12%, for example, approximately 7%, approximately 8%, approximately 9%, approximately 10%, approximately 11%, approximately 12%, approximately 13%, approximately 14%, or approximately 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition. The oxidizing composition may be, for example, 20V, 30V, or 40V hydrogen peroxide compositions.

[0132] The hair bleaching base composition is typically mixed with an oxidizing composition in a ratio of about 1:5 to about 5:1, such as about 1:4 to about 4:1, about 1:3 to about 3:1 or about 1:2 to about 2:1, or is, for example, about 5:1, about 4:1, about 3:1, about 2:1, about 1.5:1, about 1:1, about 1:1.5, about 1:2, about 1:3, about 1:4, or about 1:5, usually at or about the time of use, to form the bleaching composition. The mixture is usually alkaline, with a pH greater than about 8, such as greater than about 9, or greater than about 10, for example ranging from about 9 to about 12, or from about 10 to about 12.Typically, once the bleaching composition is prepared, it is applied to hair which may be damp, wet or dry, optionally covered (e.g., with film), optionally heated (e.g., with a hairdryer or a . hair dryer helmet) and, after a sufficient processing time to achieve the desired level of hair lightening, the hair is rinsed.

[0133] Optionally, the bleaching compositions to be used in the processes according to the disclosure include at least one direct dye, such as those described above. In some embodiments, the bleaching composition includes at least one direct dye having at least one halogenated aromatic ring, for example, one or more xanthene dyes, triarylmethane dyes, azo dyes, etc. Non-limiting examples of xanthene dyes comprising at least one halogenated aromatic ring include D&C Red 28, D&C Red 27, Eosin Y, Eosin B, Erythrosin B, and Rose Bengal, and non-limiting examples of triarylmethane dyes include tetrabromophenol blue, tetrabromosulfonephthalein, bromosulfophthalein, bromocresol green, and bromothymol blue.If present, the total amount of direct dyes can range from about 0.001% to about 10%, such as from about 0.001% to about 5%, from about 0.001% to about 3%, from about 0.001% to about 2%, from about 0.001% to about 1%, from about 0.005% to about 5%, from about 0.005% to about 3%, from about 0.005% to about 2%, from about 0.005% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, or from about 0.01% to about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the bleaching composition.

[0134] Although the aforementioned basic hair bleaching compositions, oxidizing compositions, and hair bleaching processes are disclosed for use in the processes according to the disclosure, those skilled in the art will understand that variations of hair bleaching compositions and processes may also be used. Therefore, it is not intended that the aforementioned bleaching compositions and processes will limit the processes according to the disclosure.

[0135] III. PROCESSES FOR TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBERS

[0136] The disclosure relates to processes for treating keratin fibers with a treatment composition as disclosed in connection with a hair lightening process. The processes include applying a treatment composition to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a period of time ("treatment period," "resting period," or "processing time"), and optionally rinsing the composition from the hair. The treatment composition may be applied to the hair before and / or after the application of a bleaching composition to the hair, or may be applied to the hair concurrently with a bleaching composition. The processes may also include applying color to the hair with a direct dye, for example, if a treatment composition hair and / or bleaching composition used in the processes include direct dyes.

[0137] Although not necessary, the processes according to the disclosure may also include a step of heating the hair to which the treatment composition has been applied, for example, during the resting period while the treatment composition is on the hair. For example, a hair dryer, a hair dryer hood, etc., may be used.

[0138] The period of time during which the treatment composition is left on the hair may be of an appropriate duration to allow the active agents to provide benefits to the keratin fibers, such as approximately 30 seconds, approximately 1 minute, approximately 2 minutes, approximately 5 minutes, approximately 10 minutes, approximately 15 minutes, approximately 20 minutes, approximately 30 minutes, approximately 45 minutes, approximately 1 hour, approximately 2 hours, etc., or may vary from a period of time using any of the preceding values ​​as upper and lower limits.As a non-limiting example, the exposure period can range from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 60 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 20 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 15 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 10 minutes, from approximately 30 seconds to approximately 5 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 60 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 30 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 20 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 15 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 10 minutes, from approximately 1 minute to approximately 5 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 60 minutes. minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 45 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 30 minutes minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 20 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 15 minutes minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 10 minutes, from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 5 minutes minutes, etc.

[0139] The period of time during which the bleaching composition is left on the hair can last for a time appropriate to obtain the desired level of lightening, which can range from about 1 minute to about 90 minutes, such as from about 5 minutes to about 60 minutes, from about 10 minutes to about 45 minutes, or from about 15 minutes to about 25 minutes.

[0140] In exemplary embodiments, a treatment composition as disclosed may be applied to the hair before, during, and / or after the application of a bleaching composition to the hair, with or without intermediate rinsing. For example, such a process may include applying a treatment composition as disclosed to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate processing time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then substantially immediately thereafter (i.e., (i.e., within the same hair lightening process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, the application of a bleaching composition to the hair. Another example of the process may include the application of a bleaching composition to the hair, and substantially immediately thereafter (i.e., within the same hair lightening process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, the application of a treatment composition as disclosed. In either of the preceding examples of embodiments, the treatment composition and the bleaching composition may optionally be layered one on top of the other on the hair (without rinsing), or may optionally be applied to the hair in alternating layers (rinsing) during the hair lightening process.As a further example of a process, a treatment composition as disclosed may be added to or mixed with a hair lightening composition, such as the bleaching composition, the bleaching base composition, and / or the oxidizing composition, for example, at or near the time of use. In yet another example of a process, a treatment composition and a bleaching composition may be applied simultaneously to the hair, for example, using a dual-chamber applicator configured to dispense two compositions at the same time. Thus, it is envisaged that treatment compositions as disclosed may be incorporated into a hair lightening process to reduce, minimize, or prevent hair damage that might otherwise result from such harsh chemical treatments.

[0141] By way of non-limiting example of hair lightening processes according to the disclosure, a treatment composition such as described herein may be applied to wet, damp, or dry hair and then left to act for a processing time as described herein, for example, from about one minute to about two hours, such as from about five minutes to about one hour, optionally with heat. The hair may then be rinsed, and a hair bleaching composition is then applied according to conventional hair bleaching routines.As a further, non-limiting example of hair lightening processes as disclosed, a treatment composition such as described herein may be applied to wet, damp, or dry hair and then left to act for a processing time as described herein, for example, from about one minute to about two hours, such as from about five minutes to about one hour, optionally with heat. Without rinsing the hair treatment composition, a bleaching composition may be applied to the hair. then the hair lightening process is implemented according to classic hair bleaching routines.

[0142] By way of further, non-limiting example of hair lightening processes according to the disclosure, a hair bleaching composition may be applied to the hair to lighten it according to conventional hair bleaching routines. The hair may then be rinsed. A treatment composition such as described herein is applied to damp, wet, or dry hair and left to act for a processing time as described herein, for example, from about one minute to about two hours, such as from about five minutes to about one hour, optionally with heat. The hair may then be rinsed. By way of further, non-limiting example of hair lightening processes according to the disclosure, a hair bleaching composition may be applied to the hair to lighten it according to conventional hair bleaching routines.Without rinsing the hair bleaching composition, a treatment composition such as the one described here can be applied to wet, damp, or dry hair and then left to act for a processing time as described here, for example, from about one minute to about two hours, such as from about five minutes to about one hour, optionally with heat. The hair can then be rinsed.

[0143] Yet another example of a process may include applying a bleaching composition to the hair, rinsing the hair, and substantially immediately afterwards (i.e., as part of the same hair lightening process), applying a treatment composition as disclosed to the hair, the treatment composition comprising one or more direct dyes. A further example of a process may include applying a bleaching composition to the hair, and substantially immediately afterwards (i.e., as part of the same hair lightening process), with or without intermediate rinsing of the hair, applying a treatment composition as disclosed to the hair, the bleaching composition comprising one or more direct dyes.

[0144] Surprisingly, hair treated with compositions and processing methods as disclosed before, during, and / or after the bleaching process shows less damage than lightened hair not treated with compositions and processing methods as disclosed before, during, and / or after the bleaching process. Hair lightened using compositions and processing methods as disclosed may exhibit lower elasticity and / or higher tensile strength than hair lightened in the same way but not treated as disclosed. Thus, processes Additional processes as disclosed include processes for reducing or minimizing damage to hair in a hair lightening or bleaching process, processes for preventing damage to hair in relation to a hair lightening or bleaching process, and processes for improving the elasticity and / or tensile strength of hair in a hair lightening or bleaching process.

[0145] After describing in detail the numerous embodiments of the present invention, it will become apparent that modifications and variations are possible without departing from the scope of the disclosure defined in the appended claims. Furthermore, it should be noted that all the examples in this disclosure, while illustrating numerous embodiments of the disclosure, are provided by way of non-limiting examples and should therefore not be considered as limiting the various aspects thus illustrated. It should be understood that all definitions are provided here only for the purposes of this disclosure.

[0146] In this application, "bleach" hair and "lighten" hair are used interchangeably to refer to compositions and processes for lightening hair color with typical hair bleaching compositions comprising oxidizing and / or alkalizing compounds.

[0147] As used herein, the treatment of hair with a treatment composition or the application of a treatment composition to hair that is "in connection with a hair lightening process", "as part of the same hair lightening process", and variations thereof, are intended to make it understood that the treatment composition is applied to the hair in the immediate vicinity of the time when the hair is subjected to a hair lightening process, so that a person skilled in the art would regard the processes of treating hair with a treatment composition as described herein and hair lightening as a single process.For example, the treatment composition can be applied to the hair less than 24 hours, such as less than 12 hours, less than 6 hours, less than 4 hours, less than 3 hours, less than 2 hours, less than 1 hour, less than 45 minutes, less than 30 minutes, or less than 15 minutes before and / or after the application of a hair lightening composition to the hair.

[0148] The expression "and / or" should be understood as including both the conjunctive and the disjunctive. For example, "amino acids and / or their salts" means "amino acids and their salts" as well as "amino acids or their salts", and expressly covers either one or the other.

[0149] In this document, the term "salts" throughout the disclosure may include salts containing a counterion such as an alkali metal counterion, a metal Alkaline earth or ammonium. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, for example in an aqueous solution.

[0150] All quantities indicated here are relative to the quantity of active material, unless otherwise stated.

[0151] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions in this disclosure, unless otherwise stated.

[0152] In this application, the terms "keratin fibres" and "hair" are used interchangeably without being intended to be restrictive. Those skilled in the art will understand that keratin fibres include hair, such as the hair growing on the scalp, which is frequently lightened or bleached in a cosmetic process to alter the appearance of hair.

[0153] As used herein, the expression "apply a composition to the hair," and its variations, is intended to refer to bringing the hair into contact with at least one of the compositions described herein, in any manner whatsoever. It may also refer to bringing the hair into contact with an effective quantity.

[0154] The expression "hair treatment" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions described herein to the surface of the hair. The expression "hair treatment" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to bringing the hair into contact with the compositions described herein.

[0155] Unless otherwise defined for any specific embodiment, the expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, compositions may include less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.01%, less than about 0.001%, or less than about 0.0001% of the specified material. A composition "free" of a component is intended to contain no amount of the specified component. EXAMPLES

[0156] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory only. In the Examples, unless otherwise indicated, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active substances, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1 - Treatment compositions

[0157] Compositions IA to IG, which can be used in the processes according to the disclosure, were prepared as shown in Table 1. The pH of each of the compositions IA to IG was approximately 3.5.

[0158] [Table 1]

[0159] [Tables 1] IA IB IC 1D 1E 1F IG Basic amino acid(s) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 2.0 Glycine betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Citric acid and / or lactic acid 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 4.1 Neutral amino acid(s) 0.5 Preservative(s) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Solvents (water and / or non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS QS QS

[0160] The compositions contained a synergistic combination of components: carboxylic acids (citric acid and / or lactic acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine and / or serine).

[0161] Example 2 - Evaluation of damage repair in discoloration processes

[0162] In order to evaluate the ability of the treatment compositions according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent or repair hair damage related to bleaching processes, the following studies were conducted. Example 2A# - Ultra-bleached hair

[0163] Eight strands (SI to S8) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then seven of the strands (SI to S7) were subjected to the following treatment routines (strand S8 was not treated after the bleaching composition was rinsed from the hair).

[0164] The strand SI was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, and working a lather. Shampoo was applied, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, then rinsing the strand thoroughly. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.

[0165] Strands S2 to S7 were each cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, one of the compositions IA to 1F (Table 2A) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.

[0166] [Table 2] TABLE 2A IA IB IC 1D 1E 1F Wick S2 S3 S4 S5 S6 S7

[0168] The integrity of the hair fibers of each of the strands SI to S8 was studied after the first and fifth days. Elasticity was evaluated to determine whether the hair fibers stretched, and if so, whether they returned to their original state (lower elasticity, i.e. healthy), whether the fibers stretched easily and remained stretched (higher elasticity, i.e. damaged) or whether the hair fibers broke during the tests.

[0169] The evaluation was carried out by stretching a standardized quantity of wet hair fibers, with two experts independently evaluating each strand. The experts were trained to stretch the area of ​​the strand being evaluated by uniformly applying a manual tensile force using their hands / fingers. The behavior of the strand was rated by each expert on a 6-level scale as follows, with the result reported for each strand being the average of the two:

[0170] 0 = Natural and healthy hair (no damage);

[0171] 1 = low elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a slight elasticity, returning to their initial state after testing);

[0172] 2 = moderate elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a elasticity, returning to their initial state after the test);

[0173] 3 = High elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit elasticity and some hair fibers do not return to their initial state after the test);

[0174] 4 = Very high elasticity (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit elasticity and the majority of hair fibers do not return to their initial state after the test); and

[0175] 5 = Immediate rupture (when stretched, the hair fibers exhibit a high elasticity and break during testing).

[0176] The results showed that the hair fibers of strands S2-S7, treated with one of compositions 1A-1F, surprisingly exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of strands SI or S8 both after day 1 ([Fig. 1A]) and day 5 ([Fig. 1B]). In other words, the hair of strands SI and S8 was damaged by the aggressive bleaching process, resulting in increased elasticity, while the damaged strands S2 to S7 were repaired by treatment with one of compositions IA to 1F. Example 2B# - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair

[0177] Eight strands (S9 to S16) of Caucasian hair that had previously been straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then seven of the strands (S9 to S15) were subjected to the following treatment routines.

[0178] Strand S9 was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand thoroughly. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair. The treatment was repeated a second time. This treatment protocol was repeated daily for five days.

[0179]

[0180]

[0181]

[0182]

[0183]

[0184]

[0185]

[0186] Strands S10 to S15 were each cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand thoroughly. Immediately afterward, one of the compositions IA to 1F (Table 2B) was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly.A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in serum for use with flat irons were applied to the hair. This treatment protocol was repeated daily. for five days. [Table 3] TABLE 2B IA IB IC 1D 1E 1F Wick S10 SU S12 S13 S14 S15 The integrity of the hair fibers of each of the strands S9 to S16 was studied in the same way as described in example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of the strands S10-S15, treated with one of the compositions 1A-1F, surprisingly exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of the strands S9 and S16 both after day 1 ([Fig.2A]) and day 5 ([Fig.2B]). Examples 2A and 2B therefore demonstrate that treating hair with compositions as disclosed in a bleaching process surprisingly prevents and repairs damage to hair fibers that would otherwise be caused by the compositions and bleaching processes, leaving hair healthier and less elastic than without treatment. Example #3 - Treatment Compositions Compositions 2A to 2E, which can be used in the processes according to the disclosure, were prepared as indicated in Table 3. [Table 4] [Tables 3] 2A 2B 2C 2D 2E Basic amino acid(s) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Glycine betaine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Citric acid 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 Silicone oil(s) (dimethicone and / or amodimethicone) 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 1.0 Fatty alcohol(s) (stearyl alcohol and / or cetearyl alcohol) 4.5 4.5 6.0 5.0 6.0 Cetyl esters 1.0 Cationic surfactant(s) (cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride and / or stearamide opropyldimethylamine) 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.5 1.6 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.1 1.1 1.1 0.2 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.8 1.0 1.5 1.5 0.4 Auxiliary component(s) (pH adjusters, Preservatives, vitamins, extracts) <2 <2 <2 <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS Measured pH 3.7 3.7 3.7 3.7 4.0

[0187] The compositions contained a synergistic combination of components: carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine) and amino acids (arginine).

[0188] Example 4 - Evaluation of damage repair in discoloration processes

[0189] In order to evaluate the ability of the treatment compositions according to the disclosure to minimize, prevent or repair hair damage related to bleaching processes, the following studies were conducted.

[0190] A comparator product, Cl, had the following list of ingredients on the packaging: Water (Aqua / Eau), bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate, propylene glycol, cetearyl alcohol, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, glycerin, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, quaternium-91, sodium benzoate, cetrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium chloride, parfum, tetrasodium EDTA, polyquaternium-37, benzyl benzoate, etidronic acid, ascorbic acid, phytantriol, tocopheryl acetate, Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice, panthenol, Simmondsia Chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, citric acid, potassium sorbate. The Cl formula, which is described as a "pre-shampoo hair treatment that reduces breakage and split ends for "Visibly healthier hair" is presented as part of a system that claims to "reform broken disulfide bonds damaged by chemical treatments, heat, and styling." The instructions for the Cl formula are to use the product before using the shampoo ("Cl-S") and conditioner ("Cl-C") that are part of this system, both of which include bis-aminopropyldiglycol dimaleate as the listed active ingredient.

[0191] Example 4A - Ultra-bleached hair: Elasticity and resistance

[0192] Five strands (S 17 to S21) of virgin Caucasian hair were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and then four of the strands (S 17 to S20) were subjected to the following treatment routines (strand S21 was not treated after the bleaching composition was rinsed from the hair).

[0193] The S17 strand was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the shampoo into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.

[0194] Strands S18 and S19 were each cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand thoroughly. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied and distributed to ensure complete coverage of the hair, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Then, one of the 2D (S18) or 2B (S19) compositions was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage of the hair, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.

[0195] The S20 strand was treated with composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it so as to ensure that the hair was completely coated. Composition Cl was left on the hair for a resting period. The hair was left on for approximately five minutes, then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterward, the strand was cleansed with Cl-S shampoo by wetting it, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for about one minute, and then rinsing until all the shampoo was removed. Next, Cl-C conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. This treatment protocol was repeated four more times.

[0196] Once the five treatments of strands S17 to S20 were completed, the integrity of the hair fibers of each of the strands S17 to S21 was studied in the same way as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers of strands S18 and S19, treated respectively with compositions 2D and 2B after washing and conditioning the hair, exhibited lower elasticity than the fibers of strands S17 and S20-S21 ([Fig.3]).

[0197] Next, the strength was evaluated using a Dia-Stron fiber tensile testing instrument called the MTT (Miniature Tensile Tester). The results showed that the hairs in strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, were surprisingly stronger than the hairs in strands S17 or S20, meaning that a greater force was required to break the individual hair fibers in strands S18 and S19. [Fig. 4A] shows the breaking strength (MPa) for a control strand (CTL), made of the same hair but unbleached, strand S17, which was bleached but without further treatment, and strands S18 and S19, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, and strand S20, treated with the comparative compositions. As shown in [Fig.[4A], the breaking strength of the control strand (CTL) was more than double that of strand S17, demonstrating the significant damage caused by the bleaching process. After five (5) treatments with composition 2D (strand S18), 2B (strand S19), or the comparative compositions (S20), the breaking strength of the treated strands increased compared to strand S17. Surprisingly, the increase in breaking strength for samples S18-S19 was considered statistically significant compared to that of sample S20, meaning that compositions 2D and 2B repaired the hair to a greater extent than the comparative compositions.

[0198] Example 4B - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair: Elasticity

[0199] Four strands (S22 to S25) of Caucasian hair that had previously been straightened using formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with an oxidizing composition Commercially available (40V hydrogen peroxide) was mixed at a ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder: oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55°C for about 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed, and for a five-week treatment period, the four strands were subjected to the following routine twice a week.

[0200] First, the strands were cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand thoroughly. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were then applied to the hair.

[0201] Three of the strands (S22 to S24) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines once a week during the 5-week period.

[0202] Strand S22 was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand thoroughly. A hair mask was applied and left on the hair, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure complete coverage. It was left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0203] The strand S23 was cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the shampoo into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterwards, Composition 2C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. Immediately afterwards, a commercially available conditioner was applied and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated. It was left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed. Carefully. A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in straightening serum were applied to the hair.

[0204] The S24 strand was treated with composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it to ensure that the hair was completely coated. Composition Cl was left on the hair for approximately five minutes, after which the strand was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately afterward, the strand was washed with shampoo Cl-S by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, conditioner Cl-C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was thoroughly rinsed.A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in serum for use with flat irons were applied to the hair.

[0205] After the five-week treatment period, the elasticity and strength of the hair fibers in each of the strands S22 to S25 were studied in the same manner as described in Example 2A. The results showed that the hair fibers in strand S23, treated with composition 2C, had lower elasticity than the fibers in either strand S22 or S24-S25. Similarly, the results of the MTT test showed that the hair in strand S23, treated with composition 2C, was stronger than the hair in either strand S22 or S24-S25.

[0206] Example 4C - Straightened and ultra-bleached hair: Resistance

[0207] Four strands (S26 to S29) of Caucasian hair that had previously been straightened with formaldehyde were bleached with a composition prepared by mixing a commercial bleaching powder with a commercial oxidizing composition (40V hydrogen peroxide) at a mixing ratio of 1:1.5 (bleaching powder:oxidizing composition) and treated at a temperature of approximately 55 °C for approximately 45 minutes. The strands were rinsed and, over a five-week treatment period, the four strands were subjected to the following routine twice a week.

[0208] First, the strands were cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo to the strand, working the shampoo into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterwards, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, and left to rest for approximately five minutes, then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0209] Three of the strands (S27 to S29) were subjected to the following additional treatment routines once a week during the 5-week period.

[0210] Strands S27 and S28 were cleaned with a commercially available shampoo by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. One of the compositions 2B (S28) or 2D (S27) was applied to the hair and left on, after which the hair was rinsed. Immediately afterward, a commercially available conditioner was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left on for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was rinsed thoroughly. A leave-in conditioner and a leave-in flat iron serum were applied to the hair.

[0211] Strand S29 was treated with composition Cl by applying the composition to the strand and distributing it to ensure that the hair was completely coated. Composition Cl was left on the hair for approximately five minutes, after which the strand was thoroughly rinsed. Immediately afterward, the strand was washed with shampoo Cl-S by wetting the strand, applying the shampoo, working it into a lather, leaving it on the strand for approximately one minute, and then rinsing the strand until all the shampoo was removed. Immediately afterward, conditioner Cl-C was applied to the strand and distributed to ensure that the hair was completely coated, left to rest for approximately five minutes, and then the strand was thoroughly rinsed.A leave-in conditioning product and a leave-in serum for use with flat irons were applied to the hair.

[0212] Tests were carried out with the MTT in the same manner as described in Example 4A. The results showed that the hairs in strands S27 and S28, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, were surprisingly stronger than the hairs in strands S26 or S29, meaning that a greater force was required to break the individual hair fibers in strands S27 and S28. Figure 4B shows the breaking strength (MPa) for a control strand (CTL), made of the same hair but unbleached, strand S26, which was bleached but without further treatment, and strands S27 and S28, treated with compositions 2D and 2B respectively, and strand S29, treated with the comparative compositions. As in Figure 4B, the breaking strength of the control strand (CTL) was about three times greater than that of strand S26, showing the damage Significant changes were caused by the bleaching process. After five (5) treatments with composition 2B (strand S28) and 2D (strand S27), the breaking strength of the treated strands was increased compared to strand S26, and this improvement was considered statistically significant. However, [Fig. 4B] shows that the breaking strength of the strand treated with the comparative composition (S29) did not show any improvement.

[0213] Examples 4A to 4C therefore demonstrate that hair treatment with The composition, as disclosed, of the bleaching process surprisingly prevents and repairs damage to hair fibers that would otherwise be caused by bleaching agents and processes, leaving hair healthier, stronger, and less elastic than without treatment. The damage repair was also remarkably greater than that achieved with a commercial product claiming to do the same. Example #5 - Treatment Compositions

[0214] Compositions 3A to 3D, which can be used in the processes according to the disclosure, were prepared as indicated in Table 4.

[0215] [Table 5]

[0216] [Tables4] 3A 3B 3C 3D Basic amino acid(s) 5.50 5.50 3.80 3.80 Thickening agent(s) 0.30 0.90 0.90 Non-ionic surfactant(s) 0.30 1.50 0.50 0.50 Amphoteric surfactant(s) 0.30 Revitalizing agent(s) 0.80 Cationic surfactant(s) 2.10 3.84 3.00 3.00 Glycine betaine 2.50 2.50 1.80 1.80 Citric acid 6.00 6.00 5.50 5.50 Wax(s) 0.50 0.50 Fatty alcohol(s) 6.30 6.30 Vegetable oil(s) 0.50 Fatty acid ester(s) 2.50 1.50 Additives (preservatives, fragrance) <2 <2 <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS

[0217] Compositions 3A to 3D, which contained a synergistic combination of components (carboxylic acids (citric acid), osmolytes (glycine betaine), and amino acids (arginine)), can be used in processes as disclosed, for example, they can be applied to hair before and / or after the application of a hair bleaching composition, can be mixed with a bleaching composition, or can be applied to hair concurrently with a bleaching composition, and should minimize, prevent, and / or repair hair damage that would otherwise be expected from a hair bleaching process. The compositions should also improve the elasticity and strength of the treated hair fibers.

[0218] Example 6 - Additional treatment compositions

[0219] The following compositions, which may be used in the processes as disclosed, may be prepared and should likewise minimize, prevent, and / or repair damage to the hair when used accordingly. The compositions should also improve the elasticity and strength of the treated hair fibers.

[0220] [Table 6]

[0221] [Tables5] 4A 4B 4C 4D 4E Arginine 2.0 9.8 2.5 Lysine 2.5 2.0 10 Valine betaine 2.0 4.5 2.0 1.0 4.0 Citric acid 3 2.0 9.8 Lactic acid 2.0 10 2 Serine 0.05 0.5 0.05 0.5 Fatty compound(s) 10 8.0 9.0 15 Cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant(s) 3.0 0.5 2.5 5.0 Additional component(s) (e.g., pH adjusters, vitamins, preservatives, extracts, thickeners) <5 <5 <5 <5 <5 Solvent(s) (water and / or non-aqueous solvents) QS QS QS QS QS

[0222] The above examples demonstrate that the processes according to the disclosure, which include treating hair with treatment compositions as described herein before, during and / or after hair bleaching, surprisingly and unexpectedly reduce, minimize and / or prevent hair damage that would otherwise be expected from bleaching compositions and processes.

Claims

Demands

1. A process for treating keratin fibers, the process comprising: (i) applying to the keratin fibers a treatment composition comprising: a. at least one compound selected from amino acids or their salts; b. at least one osmolyte; c. at least one compound selected from carboxylic acids or their salts; and d. at least one solvent, and (ii) applying to the keratin fibers a bleaching composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, wherein step (i) takes place before, during and / or after step (ii).

2. A process according to claim 1, wherein the treatment composition comprises at least one osmolyte selected from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyllysine, glycine betaine, histidine betaine, N-methylhistidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these, preferably comprising glycine betaine.

3. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the total amount of osmolytes present in the treatment composition ranges from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the treatment composition comprises at least one amino acid selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these.

5. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the total amount of amino acids and their salts present in the treatment composition ranges from about 2% to about 15%, preferably from about 2.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 3.5% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the treatment composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid selected from formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these.

7. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts present in the treatment composition ranges from about 3% to about 15%, preferably from about 3% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the treatment composition and / or the bleaching composition comprises at least one direct dye.

9. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is a method of adding strength to keratin fibers and / or reducing the elasticity of keratin fibers in a keratin fiber thinning process.

10. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, which is a method for protecting keratin fibers in a keratin fiber lightening process.