Method for accessing and assessing hair damage

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for accessing hair damage and evaluating hair based on its resistance to elongation and deformation. The method consists of a six-level evaluation scale (0 to 5). The method is based on a standardized protocol of procedures. The objective of the method is to evaluate how hair repair technologies reduce hair damage or how chemical treatments increase hair damage, and to provide statistical results.

Description

Title of the invention: Method for accessing and evaluating hair damage. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for accessing and evaluating hair damage based on its resistance to elongation and deformation. The method consists of a six-level (0 to 5) rating scale. The method is based on a standardized protocol of procedures. The objective of the method is to evaluate how hair repair technologies reduce hair damage or how chemical treatments increase hair damage and to provide statistical results. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] The gestures used by hairdressers on strands of hair in the salon are the current way of appreciating and evaluating the level of hair damage of a client when a chemical treatment (such as bleaching and straightening) is or will be applied to the hair.

[0003] This gesture consists of pulling a standardized quantity of hair strands and, through this gesture, the integrity of the fiber is evaluated and classified according to a general scale that hairdressers consider and use in their routines.

[0004] Thanks to this current evaluation methodology used by hairdressers in salons, perceived hair elasticity and fiber deformation are the main indicators of the level of hair damage.

[0005] Therefore, the greater the elongation of the hair sample, the greater the perceived elasticity. Consequently, deformation can occur, and this increases the level of damage. Perceived elasticity as a sign of damage is not directly related to the elastic modulus of the hair fiber, which can be assessed by the tensile test.

[0006] US2021 / 0259381 describes a methodology that is used to evaluate the The preservation of hair integrity after the application of the patented technology is assessed by evaluating the elasticity of wet hair by stretching a hair fiber from both ends. The more elastic the hair, the more it returns to its original shape and the better its integrity is preserved. If the hair breaks after the procedure, it is no longer elastic and its integrity has not been preserved. No scale was presented, and no details on a quantitative data analysis were provided or offered.

[0007] WO2019 / 016129 describes that the elasticity of the hair is evaluated by stretching from 5 to 10 hair fibers are tested and rated from 1 (unacceptable result) to 5 (excellent - fully elastic recovery). The scale appears to be more qualitative, and no details of the quantitative data analysis are provided.

[0008] Other documents describing methodologies for evaluating the integrity or elasticity of hair have been found; in most cases the assessment is linked to the use of equipment or to the physical principle of elasticity.

[0009] Therefore, there is a need for a method to assess hair damage that is standardized and reproducible, and that can be used to evaluate and demonstrate the performance of repair technologies, to assess the impact of chemical treatments on the integrity of the hair fiber and to perform a diagnosis of hair.

[0010] The developed method aims to evaluate hair repair technologies on the improvement of the level of hair damage, access to hair integrity by analyzing its elasticity and statistical comparison to a previously damaged reference and to the bench performance of other products.

[0011] The results can be used to statistically compare the performance of different hair repair technologies and to make recommendations regarding the most suitable technology for a certain type of hair damage.

[0012] The results can also be used to monitor the impact on the integrity of the hair fiber when chemical treatments are applied successively and to compare the impact of different chemical treatments on the hair fiber.

[0013] Therefore, the present invention solves the technical problem with the method for accessing capillary damage and evaluating it on the basis of its resistance to elongation and deformation as described herein. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] The present invention relates to a method for accessing and assessing hair damage, the method comprising the steps of: a. separation of a lock of hair; b. spraying water onto the strand of hair for the first time, c. waiting for 0.5 to 3 minutes; d. spray water onto the strand of hair a second time and remove the excess water; and e. performing the evaluation procedure,

[0015] said evaluation step (e) includes the steps of: i. Hold the top of the evaluation area of ​​the hair strand with the index finger and thumb of one hand, pressing with the fingers, at a distance of 3.0 to 7.0 cm, and ii. supporting the bottom of the appraisal area with the thumb and forefinger of the other hand, and iii. with the hand holding the lower part, pull the lock of hair at least twice in succession, and iv. repeat the procedure for each area of ​​assessment, going from area 1 to area 3 of the hair strand.

[0016] The present invention relates to a method for evaluating and demonstrating the performance of repair technologies, for assessing the impact of chemical treatments on the integrity of the hair fiber, and for performing hair diagnosis. This method can be used to evaluate how hair repair technologies work to reduce hair damage and provide statistical results, and it can be used as training for hairdressers to perform hair diagnosis and record the level of hair damage in hair salons. Brief description of the drawings

[0017] [Fig-1] The [Fig.1] illustrates the evaluation zones 1, 2 and 3 of the hair strand.

[0018] [Fig.2] Fig.2 illustrates the 6 levels of hair evaluation, in which the Level 0 represents natural hair, level 1 represents low elasticity, level 2 represents elastic hair, level 3 represents slightly deformable hair, level 4 represents deformable hair, and level 5 represents hair with immediate breakage. Images were taken immediately after the fibers were stretched.

[0019] [Fig.3] Fig.3 illustrates how to count the strands of hair (from the tip of the wick).

[0020] [Fig.4] Fig.4 illustrates how the lock of hair to be evaluated should be maintained.

[0021] [Fig.5] [Fig.5] illustrates the lock of hair to be evaluated glued with glue hot.

[0022] [Fig.6] Fig.6 illustrates the lock of hair caught in the holder for evaluation, the timer and the water sprayer.

[0023] [Fig.7] Fig.7 illustrates the 15 cm separation of the hair strand evaluation for an in vivo assessment.

[0024] [Fig.8] Figure [Fig.8] illustrates the elongation of the evaluation hair strand on the basis of a rule. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0025] The present invention relates to a method for accessing and assessing capillary damage, comprising the steps of: a. separation of a lock of hair; b. spraying water onto the strand of hair for the first time, c. waiting for 0.5 to 3 minutes; d. spray water onto the strand of hair a second time and remove the excess water; and e. performing the evaluation procedure,

[0026] said evaluation step (e) includes the steps of: i. Hold the top of the evaluation area of ​​the hair strand with the index finger and thumb of one hand, pressing with the fingers, at a distance of 3.0 to 7.0 cm, and ii. supporting the bottom of the appraisal area with the thumb and forefinger of the other hand, and iii. with the hand holding the lower part, pull the lock of hair at least twice in succession, and iv. repeat the procedure for each area of ​​assessment, going from area 1 to area 3 of the hair strand.

[0027] In a preferred embodiment, in step (a), the hair strand is an evaluation strand of approximately 12 to 35 cm from its top to its end.

[0028] In a preferred embodiment, in step (a), the hair strand is an evaluation strand and is divided into zone 1, zone 2 and zone 3, in which zone 1 is closest to the top of the strand and zone 3 is closest to the end of the strand. Each zone measures 5.0 cm.

[0029] In a preferred embodiment, the hair strand in step (a) comprises about 25 to about 50 fibers, preferably about 30 fibers.

[0030] In a preferred embodiment, in step (b), the strand of hair is sprayed 10 times from the top to the end of the strand.

[0031] In a preferred embodiment, in step (c), the strand of hair is sprayed 5 times from the top to the end of the strand.

[0032] In a preferred embodiment, at step (c), the waiting time is 1 minute.

[0033] In a preferred embodiment, in steps (b) and (c), water is sprayed onto the strand of hair with a distance of about 5 cm between the sprayer and the strand of hair.

[0034] In a preferred embodiment, in step (d), the evaluation gesture is performed immediately after spraying water for the second time on the strand of hair and removing excess water.

[0035] In a preferred embodiment, at point (i), the distance is 5.0 cm.

[0036] Similarly, the force applied during finger pressure in step (e)(i) must be just enough to ensure that the strand of hair does not come loose or slip during the test.

[0037] In a preferred embodiment, at point (iii), the lock of hair is pulled 3 times in succession and without pause between the pulls which are carried out on the hair being evaluated.

[0038] In a preferred embodiment, in point (iv), the procedure is repeated 2 to 5 times for each assessment area.

[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the process is a six-level evaluation (0 to 5), in which level 0 is natural hair, level 1 is hair with low elasticity, level 2 is elastic hair, level 3 is hair with low deformability, level 4 is deformable hair and level 5 is hair with immediate breakage, according to the approximate elongation of the hair as in Table 1 below.

[0040] [Tables 1] Approximate elongation (cm) Level 0 Level 1 Level 2 Level 3 Level 4 Level 5 0.5 1.0 1.5 1.7 2.0 -

[0041] Approximate elongation (cm) for estimating the level of hair damage

[0042] The present invention relates to a method for accessing and assessing hair damage, consisting of a scale from 0 to 5 and a standardized gesture. It can be used to evaluate how hair repair technologies work to reduce hair damage and provide statistical results, both in vitro and in vivo. It can be used as training for hairdressers to perform hair diagnosis and note the level of hair damage in hair salons. It can be used in clinical studies as a criterion for including or excluding volunteers.

[0043] The present method is based on a scale linked to a gesture consisting of pulling the lock of hair to be evaluated and observing its behavior throughout the test. According to the perceived elongation / deformation, the level of damage is classified according to a six-level scale, from 0 to 5.

[0044] Level zero (0) on the scale is the reference for natural hair that has not been chemically treated and is extremely strong. The opposite end of the scale is level 5, where breakage occurs in more than 20% of the hair fibers.

[0045] Table 2 presents the descriptions of each level of the scale.

[0046] [Tables2] Hair Hair Hair Hair p Hair Hair natural little x elastic deformable with elastic deformable causes immediate injury Scale 0 1 2 3 4 5 Description Hair Once the strand is pulled, the hair presents a present hair that has not undergone any transformation. The strand does not undergo any transformation. It stretches when pulled and, after the test, becomes very firm. Once pulled, the hair is not stretched and is almost completely deformed. After the test, it remains firm. Once pulled, the fibers are strongly stretched, but remain in their initial state. They are still very deformed. After the test, they always have a slight firmness. Its state of deformation is determined by the initial part. A deformation of the part can be observed. (**) (**) Six-level scale of the planned process

[0047] The tests were also carried out under the following conditions: a. blind evaluation; and b. 2 approved operators.

[0048] In scales 3 and 4 above, reference (**) describes partial breakage, which occurs when there is a break of less than 20% of the hair fibers on the strand.

[0049] The evaluation strand is divided into three regions, as illustrated in [Fig. 1], in which the procedure will be performed: zone 1, zone 2, and zone 3. Zone 3 is always the closest to the end of the strand. Each region preferably measures 5.0 cm.

[0050] During the evaluation, a scale value is obtained for each of the three zones of the strand. The hair damage level (HDL) is the average of these three zones, according to the equation below: hoi « 3

[0051] To access the statistical analyses of the results, it is necessary to follow the standards established for the process, taking into account the in vitro and in vivo studies, detailed respectively below in the sections "Evaluation of hair repair technologies in vitro" and "Evaluation in vivo". A. CAPILLARY INTEGRITY ASSESSMENT Al Equipment and materials

[0052] - Gloves (preferably black for bleached fibers);

[0053] - Spray bottle with water; and

[0054] - Timer. A.2. Preparation of the evaluation wick

[0055] For the evaluation, a strand of 30 fibers will be used, which must be prepared from the strand referring to the condition to be evaluated.

[0056] Fiber counting ([Fig.3]): the fibers must be counted from the tips of the main strand, in order to avoid broken fibers in the evaluation strand. A.3. Evaluation Protocol

[0057] Standardized pre-gesture procedure: Spray water 10 times onto the strand, dividing each into two 5-spray intervals along the strand. Distribute the sprays evenly to the ends, maintaining a distance of approximately 5 cm between the sprayer and the strand. Set the timer for 1 minute and, once the time has elapsed, spray water 5 more times onto the strand. Immediately proceed with the evaluation procedure described below.

[0058] Assessment gesture ([Fig. 4]): Hold the top of the assessment area with the index finger and thumb of one hand and press with the fingers. Establish a distance of 5.0 cm and hold the bottom of the assessment area with the thumb and index finger of the other hand. With the hand holding the lower part, pull 3 times in succession, without pausing. Repeat the procedure for each assessment area. Always proceed from area 1 to area 3.

[0059] B. EVALUATION OF IN VITRO HAIR REPAIR TECHNOLOGIES Bl Equipment and Materials

[0060] - Hot glue gun or equivalent;

[0061] - Thermal glove;

[0062] - Metal spatula;

[0063] - Scissors;

[0064] - Labeler;

[0065] - Hair strand support; and

[0066] - Towel. B.2.1. Number of wicks per assessed condition

[0067] Six evaluation strands per state are prepared. Each evaluation strand must come from a master strand of 30 fibers.

[0068] The same number of wicks per state must be prepared for 2 operators, and the two wicks of the same state must come from the same main wick.

[0069] B.2.2. Preparation of in vitro evaluation wicks

[0070] After counting the fibers, as described in point A.2, they should be cut at the top of the main strand, and then the process described below should be followed to glue the top.

[0071] • Bonding process: place the 30 hair fibers on a surface, preferably in glass. Using the hot glue gun or equivalent equipment, place at the top (referring to the beginning of the first evaluation area) of the evaluation wick, the equivalent of a coin of hot glue ([Fig.5]), then press with a spatula until it cools. B.2.3. Evaluation wick and ambient conditions

[0072] Strands that undergo chemical transformations such as bleaching and / or straightening must be prepared, preferably no later than two days before the application of the test products.

[0073] The ambient temperature and humidity must always be constant: 22 °C or 72 °F and 55%.

[0074] Standardization of product batches: use the same product batch for all evaluated states.

[0075] B.3. Preparation for the assessment of capillary integrity

[0076] The prepared evaluation bits must be attached to a support so that they are firm and resistant to tension, without loosening when pulled. The support must be located on top of a surface that allows for height adjustment so that it can be set up for each operator.

[0077] The evaluation must be carried out the day after the product application, for all states referring to the same number of product applications / routine. The evaluations must also be carried out by both operators on the same day.

[0078] The reference strand, without product application, must be evaluated on the same day as the strands with product application. If the reference strands are prepared More than a day before, it is recommended to spray water 10 times at a distance of 5 cm between the sprayer and the wick, the day before the evaluation.

[0079] Follow the evaluation by following the protocol described in point A.3 above.

[0080] At the time of evaluation, data relating to the scores of each region of the wick must be collected. C. IN VIVO EVALUATION Cl Equipment and materials

[0081] - Ruler (minimum 20 cm); and

[0082] - Hair clip.

[0083] C.2. Preparation and evaluation of hair strand in vivo

[0084] For the evaluation of in vivo repair technologies, the number of wicks of Hair assessed by condition and the placement of strands on the head will depend on the study design.

[0085] To prepare an in vivo evaluation wick, the following procedure should be followed:

[0086] After counting the fibers according to the protocol described in point A.2, the rule must be used to define where the first evaluation zone of the wick will begin.

[0087] Measure 15 cm ([Fig.7]) from the tip of the strand towards the scalp and fix it with a hair clip just above the beginning of the first evaluation area.

[0088] Evaluate the wick according to the protocol and procedure described in section A.3. Terms

[0089] Apart from the examples of operation, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions should be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about", meaning to within 10% of the number indicated (for example, "about 10%" means 9% to 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% to 2.2% and so on).

[0090] It should also be understood that the precise numerical values ​​used in the patent memorandum, including the examples and claims, constitute further embodiments of the invention and are intended to include any range that can be reduced to any two bounds disclosed in the ranges and values ​​given by way of example. Efforts have been made to ensure the accuracy of the disclosed numerical values. However, any measured value may inherently contain some errors resulting from the standard deviation found in its respective measurement technique.

[0091] The term "including" (and its grammatical variations) as used here is used in the inclusive sense of "having" or "including" (or "understand", "have" and "include") and are used in their broad, non-limiting sense.

[0092] The term "consisting essentially of" as used herein refers to the specifically cited materials or steps, but may include materials or steps which do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions or their use.

[0093] All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise stated, and unless otherwise specified herein, all percentages and ratios of components are by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

[0094] For the purposes of this disclosure, it should be noted that, for the sake of brevity, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified with the term "approximately". It is understood that, whether the term "approximately" is used explicitly or implicitly, each quantity given herein is intended to refer to the actual value given, and is also intended to refer to the approximation of that value given that would be reasonably deduced by a person skilled in the art, including approximations due to experimental and / or measurement conditions for that value.

[0095] All ranges and quantities indicated herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a boundary. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%", is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%", "1% to 5%", "2% to 10%", and so on. All figures, quantities, ranges, etc., are intended to be modified by the term "approximately", whether or not it is expressly stated. Similarly, a given range of "approximately 1% to 10%" is intended to have its boundaries of both 1% and 10% modified by the term "approximately".

[0096] The term "approximately" is used here to indicate a difference of up to + / -10% from the stated number, such as + / - 9%, + / - 8%, + / - 7%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, or + / - 1%. Similarly, all range boundaries are understood to be disclosed individually, such that, for example, a range of 1:2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose both a 1:2 and a 2:1 ratio.

[0097] As used herein, the expression "spraying water onto the hair strand" and variations thereof are intended to signify contact of the hair with water and at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, spraying water over the entire hair strand being evaluated, from the top to the tip of the strand. The number of sprays will vary depending on the stage of the process.

[0098] Unless otherwise specifically stated, as used herein, the expressions "substantially free" or "essentially free" mean that the specific material may be present in small quantities that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions as disclosed. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the compositions (provided that an amount less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the fundamental and novel characteristics of the compositions as disclosed).

[0099] Similarly, compositions may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, or less than 0.01%, or no amount of the specified material. Furthermore, all components positively presented in this disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims; for example, a claimed composition may be "free," "substantially free," or "substantially free" of one or more components that are positively presented in this disclosure.

[0100] The expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition but may still be present in a raw material which is included in the composition, in an amount which does not substantially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions according to the disclosure.

[0101] As used herein, terms such as "access", "evaluate" (and their grammatical variations) refer to the analysis and evaluation of hair strands based on the process of this disclosure. METHOD OF IMPLEMENTATION

[0102] A non-limiting example of the method of the present invention for accessing and assessing hair damage includes the steps of:

[0103] (a) separation of a strand of hair into 30 fibers;

[0104] (b) spraying water 10 times on the strand of hair of 30 fibers a first times,

[0105] (c) wait for 1 minute;

[0106] (d) spraying water 5 times onto the strand of hair of 30 fibers a second time and removal of excess water; and

[0107] (e) immediate execution of the evaluation procedure,

[0108] said evaluation step (e) includes the steps of: i. Hold the top of the evaluation area of ​​the hair strand with the index finger and thumb of one hand, pressing with the fingers, at a distance of 5.0 cm, and ii. supporting the bottom of the appraisal area with the thumb and forefinger of the other hand, and iii. with the hand holding the lower part of the 30-fiber hair strand, pull the hair strand 3 times in succession without pausing, and iv. repeat the procedure for each area of ​​assessment, going from area 1 to area 3 of the hair strand.

Claims

Demands

1. METHOD FOR ACCESSING AND EVALUATING HAIR DAMAGE, characterized in that it comprises the steps of: (a) separating a strand of hair; (b) spraying water on the strand of hair for the first time; (c) waiting for 0.5 to 3 minutes; (d) spraying water on the strand of hair a second time and removing the excess water; and (e) performance of the assessment gesture, said assessment gesture of step (e) includes the steps of: (i) holding the top of the assessment area of ​​the hair strand with the index finger and thumb of one hand, pressing with the fingers, at a distance of 3.0 to 7.0 cm, and (ii) holding the bottom of the assessment area with the thumb and index finger of the other hand, and (iii) with the hand holding the bottom part, pulling the hair strand at least 2 times in succession, and (iv) repeating the procedure for each assessment area, going from area 1 to area 3 of the hair strand.

2. METHOD according to claim 1, characterized in that, in step (a), the hair strand is an evaluation strand of approximately 15 cm from the top thereof to its end, and wherein the hair strand is an evaluation strand and is divided into zone 1, zone 2 and zone 3, wherein zone 1 is closest to the top of the strand and zone 3 is closest to the end of the strand, and wherein each zone measures 5.0 cm.

3. METHOD, according to claim 1, characterized in that the hair strand of step (a) comprises 25 to 50 fibers, preferably 30 fibers.

4. METHOD according to claim 1, characterized in that in step (b), the strand of hair is sprayed 10 times from the top to the end of the strand.

5. METHOD according to claim 1, characterized in that in step (b) the strand of hair is sprayed 5 times from the top to the end of the strand, and in which in step (c) the waiting time is 1 minute.

6. METHOD according to claim 1, characterized in that, in step (b), water is sprayed onto the strand of hair with a distance of about 5 cm between the sprayer and the strand of hair.

7. METHOD according to claim 1, characterized in that, in step (d), the evaluation gesture is carried out immediately after spraying water for the second time on the strand of hair and removing the excess water.

8. METHOD according to claim 1, characterized in that, at point (i), the distance is 5.0 cm.

9. METHOD, according to claim 1, characterized in that, at point (üi), the lock of hair is pulled 3 times in succession and without pause between the pulls which are made on the hair being evaluated.

10. METHOD according to claim 1, characterized in that it consists of a six-level evaluation (0 to 5), in which level 0 is natural hair, level 1 is slightly elastic hair, level 2 is elastic hair, level 3 is slightly deformable hair, level 4 is deformable hair and level 5 is hair with immediate breakage.

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