Cosmetic treatment process for keratin fibers comprising the application of at least one bismuth salt and water

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the use on said keratin fibers of at least one bismuth salt, as well as its solvates such as hydrates, and water.

Description

Title of the invention: Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers comprising the application of at least one bismuth salt and water

[0001] The present invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the use on said keratin fibers of at least one bismuth salt, as well as its solvates such as hydrates, and water.

[0002] In the cosmetic and dermatological field, keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, are generally subjected to external aggressions, in particular to shocks and / or atmospheric aggressions, for example pollution and / or bad weather, to mechanical treatments, such as repeated rubbing, combing and / or brushing, and / or to chemical treatments, such as repeated washing, contact with more or less hard water, bleaching, coloring or even straightening and / or permanent waves. Keratin fibers are thus constantly attacked, causing them to wear over time, resulting in a progressive reduction in their cosmetic and / or mechanical properties.

[0003] The hair can thus become dull, brittle, rough to the touch and less resistant to external attacks and / or repeated mechanical and / or chemical treatments.

[0004] In order to overcome such drawbacks, it is usual to use care compositions capable of forming coatings on keratin fibers intended to protect them from external aggressions as well as mechanical and / or chemical treatments.

[0005] However, such coatings still too often have the disadvantage of not being sufficiently resistant, in particular to water, ambient humidity, shampoos and / or rubbing, without affecting the properties, in particular cosmetic properties, conferred on the keratin fibers.

[0006] Furthermore, the coatings or deposits formed on the keratin fibers can be sticky and cause problems of discomfort during application and / or over time, particularly on the hair.

[0007] Furthermore, such coatings can easily fade over time, thus degrading the protection provided to the keratin fibers.

[0008] Thus there is a real need to implement a process making it possible to effectively protect keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers. such as hair, without inducing the disadvantages mentioned above, that is to say leading to the formation of a coating that remains over time and / or to external aggressions and / or to mechanical treatments and / or chemical treatments while minimizing the problems of discomfort on said fibers.

[0009] In other words, one of the aims of the present invention is to provide a coating capable of effectively protecting keratin fibres while being resistant, in particular to repeated rubbing, to water, to ambient humidity, to washing, in particular to shampooing, to impacts, and / or to mechanical and / or chemical treatments.

[0010] The present invention therefore relates in particular to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the use on said keratin fibers of at least one bismuth salt as well as its solvates such as hydrates, and water; it being understood that: the process does not use methionine, and when the process is a process for coloring keratin fibers then said process does not use Na2S2O3.

[0011] The method according to the invention thus makes it possible to achieve the objectives as described above, that is to say that it leads to the formation of a homogeneous coating capable of effectively protecting the keratin fibers and which is resistant over time to external aggressions, in particular shocks and / or atmospheric aggressions such as ambient humidity and / or water, to mechanical treatments, such as rubbing, combing and / or brushing, and / or to chemical treatments, in particular washing with water and / or shampoos, coloring, bleaching, perming and / or straightening processes.

[0012] The deposits or coatings thus formed on the keratin fibers exhibit in particular good resistance to external aggressions, such as water, ambient humidity, oils, sweat, sebum and / or shampoos, ensuring good resistance over time.

[0013] Furthermore, the coatings or deposits formed do not stick to the touch and transfer little, if at all, which makes it possible to minimize problems of discomfort at the time of application and / or after application.

[0014] Furthermore, the coatings or deposits formed have the advantage of not running from the surface of the keratin fibers, which is of great interest in being able to clearly delineate the contours, in particular if the cosmetic composition comprising the bismuth salt(s) and their solvates such as hydrates also comprise one or more pigments and / or one or more colorants, and which is intended for coloring keratin fibers.

[0015] In other words, the coatings thus obtained remain stable over time on the surface of the keratin fibers.

[0016] By "stable coating" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, that the coating, formed on the surface of the substrate, has a viscosity and a visual appearance which, at atmospheric pressure and at constant temperature (25°C) do not change or change little over a period ranging from one hour to several days (to be confirmed).

[0017] In particular, the coatings obtained do not run onto the face during the implementation of the process on keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0018] Advantageously, when implementing the method according to the invention on keratin fibers, the coating thus formed is in particular resistant to water, shampoos, fatty substances such as sebum, as well as mechanical and / or chemical treatments.

[0019] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follows.

[0020] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0021] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0022] Similarly, the expression "at least" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "greater than or equal to". Bismuth salt(s)

[0023] As indicated above, the process according to the invention uses on the keratin fibers one or more bismuth salts as well as its solvates such as hydrates.

[0024] The bismuth salt(s) may be in powder form or in an organic solvent.

[0025] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the bismuth salt(s) are in the form of salts free from organic solvent.

[0026] According to another embodiment of the invention, the bismuth salt(s) are found in an organic solvent.

[0027] Preferably, the organic solvent is a solvent facilitating the evaporation of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, in particular chosen from a) polar protic solvents with a boiling point of less than or equal to 90°C, in particular (C2-C4)alkanols such as ethanol, b) polar aprotic solvents with a boiling point of less than or equal to 90°C, such as b1) di(C1-C4)alkyl ethers, in particular diethyl ether, or di(CrC4)alkyl ketones, in particular acetone, and b2) (Ci-C4)alkyl (Ci-C4)carboxylate such as ethyl acetate, preferably the solvent is chosen from polar aprotic solvents bl).

[0028] The bismuth salt(s) may be organic or inorganic salts of bismuth.

[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, bismuth salts are understood to mean the hydrated or non-hydrated forms.

[0030] For the purposes of the present invention, the bismuth salt(s) is(are) not in the form of a pigment.

[0031] The bismuth salt(s) is or are in particular different from pigments, in particular special effect pigments, in particular pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0032] The bismuth salt(s) is(are) in particular different from bismuth oxychloride.

[0033] In other words, the bismuth salt(s) is or are in particular different from bismuth oxychloride, in particular different from pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride, preferably different from special effect pigments, and more preferably different from pigments.

[0034] The bismuth salt(s) which can be used in the present invention may be chosen from: • bismuth halides such as bismuth chloride BiCl3, • bismuth nitrate (Bi(NO3)3, • bismuth sulfate, • bismuth phosphate, • (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkyl(poly)carboxylates of bismuth and possibly of alkali and alkaline earth metals, such as potassium bismuth subcitrate, or bismuth acetate (Bi(CH3COO)3), • bismuth (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylates such as bismuth methacrylate (Bi(CH2C(CH3)CO2)3), bismuth acrylate, • bismuth (poly)(Ci-C6)alkoxide such as bismuth (iso)propoxide Bi(OCH2CH2CH3)3, • (poly)(hydroxy)aryl(poly)carboxylates such as Bismuth subsalicylate and bismuth salicylate.

[0035] Preferably, the bismuth salt(s) are inorganic bismuth salts.

[0036] In other words, the bismuth salt(s) are preferentially chosen from: mineral acid salts of bismuth.

[0037] Preferably, the bismuth salt(s) is(are) chosen from bismuth halide(s), bismuth nitrate and mixtures thereof.

[0038] More preferably, the bismuth salt(s) is(are) chosen from chloride bismuth, bismuth nitrate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably bismuth chloride. Process

[0039] As indicated above, the method according to the invention uses on keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as hair, at least one bismuth salt as well as its solvates such as hydrates, as defined above, and water; it being understood that: the process does not use methionine, and when the process is a process for coloring keratin fibers then said process does not use Na2S2O3.

[0040] The method according to the invention is a method for cosmetic treatment of hair.

[0041] The method according to the invention is notably different from a method of coloring keratin fibers.

[0042] According to one embodiment of the invention, the method allows the formation of an uncolored coating on the keratin fibers. According to this option, the method does not use dyes or pigments.

[0043] Preferably, the keratin fibers can be dry or wet.

[0044] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the method implements on wet keratin fibers, preferably pre-wet hair, at least one bismuth salt as well as its solvates such as hydrates.

[0045] The bismuth salt(s) and their solvates such as hydrates may be found in this process in an aqueous composition or in powder form, preferably in powder form.

[0046] The method according to the invention can be implemented on any type of keratin fibers, including on keratin fibers which have been previously mechanically stressed and / or sensitized, in particular sensitized, in particular by one or more chemical treatments.

[0047] Keratin fibers can be natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.

[0048] Advantageously, the method according to the invention is implemented on the hair.

[0049] As indicated previously, the method uses water.

[0050] The bismuth salt(s) as well as their solvates such as the hydrates as defined above and water can be formulated in the same composition or in separate compositions.

[0051] The bismuth salt(s) may be formulated in a solid composition A, preferably free of organic solvent.

[0052] According to another embodiment, the bismuth salt(s) and their solvates such that the hydrates as defined above are found in one or more organic solvent(s) (composition A'), preferably the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from solvents facilitating the evaporation of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, in particular chosen from a) and b) and in particular bl) as defined above.

[0053] For the purposes of the present invention, the solid composition A may be in the form of powders, paste, particles (for example spherical particles such as small beads or granules). Preferably, the solid composition A is in the form of powders or particles.

[0054] By "powder" is meant a composition A in powder form, preferably essentially free of dust (or fine particles). In other words, the particle size distribution is such that the weight ratio of particles which have a size less than or equal to 50 μm (fines ratio), preferably less than or equal to 45 μm (fines ratio) is advantageously less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight and more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of particles (particle size evaluated using a RETSCH AS 200 DIGIT particle size analyzer; Oscillation height: 1.25 mm / sieving time: 5 minutes).

[0055] By “particles” is meant small fractionated objects formed of solid particles aggregated together, of variable shapes and sizes. They may be of regular or irregular shape. In particular, they may be spherical (such as granules, pellets, balls), square, rectangular, or elongated such as rods. Spherical particles are particularly preferred.

[0056] Preferably, the solid composition A is in the form of powders.

[0057] Preferably, the solid composition A consists of one or more salt(s) of bismuth as well as their solvates such as hydrates as defined above.

[0058] Preferably, the solid composition A comprises one or more bismuth salts as well as their solvates such as the hydrates as defined above, in particular chosen from inorganic bismuth salts, more preferably chosen from the group consisting of bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate, and their mixtures, even more preferably bismuth chloride.

[0059] Advantageously also, the solid composition A consists of bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate and / or their mixtures, preferably bismuth chloride.

[0060] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition A comprises one or more bismuth salts as well as their solvates such as the hydrates as defined above, in particular chosen from inorganic bismuth salts, more preferably chosen from the group consisting of bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably bismuth chloride.

[0061] Water may be formulated into an aqueous composition B.

[0062] By "aqueous" is meant a composition B comprising at least 10% by weight of water, preferably at least 20% by weight of water, more preferably at least 40% by weight of water, better still at least 50% by weight of water, even better still at least 65% by weight of water, in particular at least 80% by weight of water.

[0063] Advantageously, the aqueous composition B consists of water.

[0064] The aqueous composition B can be applied in the form of a liquid composition or in the form of a spray.

[0065] Solid composition A and aqueous composition B are two distinct compositions.

[0066] Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises at least the implementation on said keratin fibers, preferably the hair: - at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt, and - at least one aqueous composition B.

[0067] According to a first embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises at least the application to said keratin fibers: - at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt, and - at least one aqueous composition B.

[0068] According to this first embodiment, the solid composition A and the aqueous composition B can be applied simultaneously or sequentially to the keratin fibers, preferably to the hair.

[0069] Preferably, in accordance with this first embodiment, the solid composition A and the aqueous composition B can be applied sequentially to the keratin fibers.

[0070] Thus, solid composition A can be applied to the keratin fibers and then aqueous composition B is applied.

[0071] Alternatively, the aqueous composition B can first be applied to the keratin fibers so as to moisten them, then the solid composition A is applied to the moistened keratin fibers.

[0072] In other words, in accordance with the first embodiment, the method according to the invention preferably comprises at least the successive application to said keratin fibers, preferably the hair: - at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt as well as its solvates such as hydrates, as defined above, in particular chosen from inorganic bismuth salts, more preferably chosen from the group consisting of bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate, and mixtures thereof, still more preferably bismuth chloride, and - at least one aqueous composition B.

[0073] Advantageously, the method according to the invention thus comprises at least the successive application to said keratin fibers: - at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt as well as its solvates such as the hydrates as defined above, in particular chosen from inorganic bismuth salts, more preferably chosen from the group consisting of bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably bismuth chloride, then - at least one aqueous composition B.

[0074] As a variant, in accordance with the first embodiment, the method according to the invention thus comprises at least the successive application to said keratin fibers: - at least one aqueous composition B, then - at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt as defined above, notably chosen from inorganic bismuth salts, more preferably chosen from the group consisting of bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably bismuth chloride.

[0075] Preferably, the step of applying the solid composition A comprising one or more bismuth salts, as defined previously, includes a setting time ranging from 10 seconds to 1 hour, preferably from 30 seconds to 45 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 40 minutes.

[0076] Preferably, the step of applying the aqueous composition B includes a setting time ranging from 10 seconds to 1 hour, preferably from 30 seconds to 45 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 40 minutes.

[0077] According to a second embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises: - at least the mixture of at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt as defined above and at least one aqueous composition B, to obtain a composition C, - at least the application to said fibers of at least said composition C.

[0078] Thus, in accordance with this second embodiment, compositions A and compositions B, as defined above, are mixed and then the resulting composition C is applied to the keratin fibers.

[0079] In other words, composition C results from the mixing of solid composition A and aqueous composition B.

[0080] The resulting composition C is applied immediately after or after to the keratin fibers.

[0081] Preferably, composition C is an aqueous solution comprising one or more bismuth salt(s) as defined above.

[0082] Preferably, composition C is an aqueous solution comprising one or more inorganic bismuth salts, more preferably chosen from the group consisting of bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably bismuth chloride.

[0083] According to another embodiment, the method according to the invention thus comprises at least the successive application to said keratin fibers: - at least one composition A' comprising at least one bismuth salt, and at least one organic solvent, preferably the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from solvents facilitating the evaporation of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, in particular chosen from a) and b) and in particular bl) as defined above; then - at least one aqueous composition B.

[0084] Preferably, the step of applying the solid composition A' comprising one or more bismuth salts as defined above and one or more solvents, includes a setting time ranging from 10 seconds to 1 hour, preferably from 30 seconds to 45 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 40 minutes.

[0085] According to another embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises at least the implementation on said keratin fibers: - at least the mixture of a composition A' comprising: • at least one bismuth salt as defined above, and • at least one organic solvent, preferably the organic solvent(s) is(are) chosen from solvents facilitating the evaporation of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, in particular chosen from a) and b) and in particular b 1) as defined above; and

[0086] - of at least one aqueous composition B, to obtain a composition C', then the application to said fibers of at least said composition C'.

[0087] Thus, in accordance with this third embodiment, compositions A' and compositions B, as defined above, are mixed and then the resulting composition C' is applied to the keratin fibers.

[0088] Preferably, the quantity of the organic solvent(s), in particular the solvent(s) facilitating the evaporation of water, is less than 20%, preferably less than or equal to 10%, better still less than or equal to 5%, even better still less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A'.

[0089] In other words, composition C' results from the mixing of composition A' and aqueous composition B.

[0090] The resulting composition C' is applied immediately after or after on the keratin materials.

[0091] Preferably, composition C' is an aqueous solution comprising one or more bismuth salt(s) as defined above.

[0092] The bismuth salt(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C or C'.

[0093] Preferably, the exposure time of composition C on the keratin materials can vary from 10 seconds to 1 hour, preferably from 30 seconds to 45 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 40 minutes.

[0094] The solid composition A or A', the aqueous composition B and / or the composition C or C' may optionally contain one or more additives, such as preservatives, pH agents, buffering agents, viscosifying agents, anionic, cationic or zwitterionic surfactants, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or zwitterionic polymers.

[0095] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples Example 1

[0096] 5.2 grams of bismuth chloride powder are applied and distributed over the hair.

[0097] 100 grams of water are then applied in the form of a spray to the hair.

[0098] The formation of a whitish coating enveloping the fibers is observed which is resistant to combing and shampooing.

[0099] The resistance of the coating to water was evaluated by rinsing the hair with 5 liters of water and then measuring the bismuth content on the hair with an analytical method (ICPMS).

[0100] A bismuth content of 7400 ppm is measured, indicating that the coating is persistent on the hair. Example 2

[0101] An aqueous solution of 4% by weight of bismuth chloride relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution is prepared.

[0102] The resulting mixture is then applied to the hair.

[0103] The formation of a whitish coating on the hair is observed, which lasts for several days and does not flow.

[0104] The resistance of the coating to water was evaluated by rinsing the hair with 5 liters of water and then measuring the bismuth content on the hair with an analytical method (ICPMS).

[0105] A bismuth content of 9400 ppm is measured, indicating that the coating is persistent on the hair. Example 3: Analysis of abrasion resistance

[0106] The protocol of example 1 is reproduced on five plates of several tens of square micrometers.

[0107] After a period of 4 days after the formation of the coating, each plate is subjected to the following abrasion test: Abrasion test:

[0108] Ions: Argon

[0109] Scan: 1.5

[0110] Abrasion time: 1 cycle of 2 minutes

[0111] A quantitative analysis of the surface of the plates shows that the presence of bismuth and chloride is detected.

Claims

Claims

1. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the use on said keratin fibers of at least one bismuth salt and its solvates such as hydrates, and water; it being understood that: the process does not use methionine, and when the process is a process for coloring keratin fibers then said process does not use Na2S2O3.

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the bismuth salt(s) is or are different from bismuth oxychloride, preferably are different from pigments.

3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the bismuth salt(s) is or are chosen from: - bismuth halides such as bismuth chloride BiCl3, - bismuth nitrate (Bi(NO3)3, - bismuth sulfate, - bismuth phosphate, - bismuth (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkyl(poly)carboxylates and optionally alkali and alkaline earth metals, such as potassium bismuth subcitrate, or bismuth acetate (Bi(CH3COO)3), - bismuth (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylates such as bismuth methacrylate (Bi(CH2C(CH3)CO2)3, bismuth acrylate, - bismuth (poly)(Ci-C6)alcoholates such as bismuth (iso)propoxide Bi(OCH2CH2CH3)3, - (poly)(hydroxy)aryl(poly)carboxylates such as Bismuth subsalicylate, bismuth salicylate.

4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the bismuth salt(s) is or are chosen from inorganic bismuth salts, preferably chosen from bismuth halides such as bismuth chloride, bismuth nitrate and mixtures thereof, even more preferably is bismuth halides such as bismuth chloride.

5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least the implementation on said keratin fibers of at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4 and of at least one aqueous composition B.

6. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that it comprises at least the successive application to said keratin fibers of at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt and at least one aqueous composition B.

7. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that it comprises: - at least the mixture of at least one solid composition A comprising at least one bismuth salt as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4 and at least one aqueous composition B as defined in claim 5 or 6, to obtain a composition C, - at least the application to said fibers of at least said composition C.

8. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises at least the implementation on said keratin fibers: - of at least the mixture of a composition A' comprising: • at least one bismuth salt as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4, and • at least one organic solvent, preferably the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from solvents facilitating the evaporation of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure, in particular chosen from a)

9. polar protic solvents with a boiling point of less than or equal to 90°C, in particular (C2-C4)alkanols such as ethanol, and b) polar aprotic solvents with a boiling point of less than or equal to 90°C, such as bl) di(CrC4)alkyl ethers, in particular diethyl ether, or di(CrC4)alkyl ketones, in particular acetone, and b2) (Ci-C4)alkyl (Ci-C4)carboxylates such as ethyl acetate, preferably di(CrC4)alkyl ethers, - at least one aqueous composition B, to obtain a composition C', then the application to said fibers of at least said composition C'. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the bismuth salt(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition C'.