Process for stripping artificial color from keratin fibers using several types of peroxygen compounds, a composition and a kit
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024001606
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-02-19
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-22
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Method for stripping artificial color from keratin fibers using several types of peroxygen compounds, a composition and a kit
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair. It thus aims to propose new methods for stripping artificial color from keratin fibers comprising, firstly, the preparation of a stripping composition M based on peroxygenated compounds, then, secondly, the application of the stripping composition M to the keratin fibers previously artificially colored.
[0002] More specifically, the present invention relates to a process for stripping artificial color from keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step (i) of preparing a composition M, comprising at least the extemporaneous mixture of a composition A comprising at least one first peroxygen compound PI chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, their salts and their mixtures, at least one second peroxygen compound P2 different from persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, and at least one alkaline agent, with a composition B, distinct from composition A, comprising at least one cationic surfactant and at least one non-silicone fatty substance, then a step (ii) of applying said composition M to the keratin fibers.
[0003] For a long time, many people have been looking to change the color of their hair, and in particular to hide their gray hair.
[0004] It is known to dye keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, to obtain so-called "permanent" colorations with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally called oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolo-pyridines. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by an oxidative condensation process.
[0005] It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or color modifiers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole or pyridine compounds. The variety of molecules involved at the oxidation bases and couplers, allows the production of a rich palette of colors.
[0006] Another type of coloring is so-called semi-permanent coloring or direct coloring, which consists of applying direct dyes to the keratin fibers, which are colored and coloring molecules having an affinity for said fibers, leaving them to stand, then rinsing them.
[0007] In order to achieve these colorations, the direct dyes generally used are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes, and natural dyes.
[0008] To vary the shades obtained in oxidation coloring, or to enrich them with reflections, oxidation dyes can be used in association with direct dyes.
[0009] By "direct dye" we mean natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes which will diffuse superficially on the fiber and color the fibers by themselves.
[0010] The direct dye(s) may be natural or synthetic, cationic, anionic or non-ionic direct dyes.
[0011] By "natural dyes", or "of natural origin" we mean dyes derived from natural materials (plant, mineral or animal origin) such as, for example, extracts, ground materials, decoctions, and more or less concentrated in dyes.
[0012] Among natural dyes are included compounds which may be present in nature and which are reproduced by chemical (hemi)synthesis. Natural colorants may in particular be chosen from spinulosin, orceins, polyphenols or orthodiphenols (also called ODPs in the remainder of the description) and all extracts rich in ODPs, curcumin, indole derivatives such as isatin or indole-2,3-dione, indigoids including indigo, phthalocyanines and porphyrins in particular complexed with a metal, glycosylated or non-glycosylated iridoids, chromenic colorants, anthraquinone and naphthoquinone colorants such as lawsone or henna, juglone, spinulosin, chromenic or chromic colorants, such as neoflavanols and neoflavanones, flavanols; and anthocyanidols.Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes can also be used, particularly poultices or plant extracts containing said dyes.
[0013] For various reasons, such as the desire to partially or totally modulate the shade thus conferred on the hair by an oxidation dye or a direct dye, in particular a direct dye based on natural dyes such as those described above, or even the desire to eliminate this coloring, one may be led to want to partially or totally remove the dyes thus formed or brought into or on the hair. The artificial color is then stripped from the keratin fibers.
[0014] By “artificial color” is meant a color obtained by at least one of the types of coloring described above.
[0015] This stripping is generally carried out via processes using oxidizing or reducing systems, for example peroxygen reagents or ammonia.
[0016] However, the stripping techniques of the prior art which use powders of peroxygenated reagents such as ammonium or alkali metal perborates or percarbonates, which are combined at the time of use with an aqueous composition of hydrogen peroxide, are often very aggressive and modify the chemical structure of the keratin.
[0017] This results in poor cosmetic properties of the hair such as difficult detangling, an unpleasant feel or rough and dull hair, but above all by a degradation of the keratin fibers.
[0018] This degradation of the fibers is particularly undesirable because it irreversibly deteriorates the physicochemical properties of the hair. The hair becomes more porous and therefore more difficult to dry, it exhibits greater sensitivity to various other hair treatments such as coloring or perming, and its mechanical properties and surface properties are adversely modified, which results, for example, in a reduction in tensile strength or an increase in the coefficient of friction.
[0019] Furthermore, prior art stripping techniques which use reducing systems, for example based on ammonia, can generate a particularly unpleasant odor for the user.
[0020] Furthermore, the application to the hair of the stripping compositions of the prior art is often considered difficult by users. These compositions are often particularly fluid, which can cause splashes and drips on the hair, and thus alter the expected result.
[0021] There therefore remains a real need for methods for stripping artificial color from keratin fibers, in particular hair, which make it possible to obtain effective stripping of the artificial coloring from previously colored keratin fibers, in particular homogeneous stripping for an aesthetic result, which are easy to implement on the keratin fibers to be treated, namely easy to mix, without risk of dripping during application, and without requiring lengthy manual kneading work, which do not generate an unpleasant odor and which make it possible to preserve the integrity of the keratin fibers, while giving the fibers good cosmetic properties such as softness to the touch, shine, flexibility, a smooth feel and ease of disentangling.
[0022] The present invention makes it possible to meet these needs.
[0023] The subject of the present invention is a process, preferably cosmetic, for stripping artificial color from keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the following steps: (i) the preparation of a composition M, comprising at least the extemporaneous mixture: a. of a composition A comprising: - at least one first peroxygen compound PI chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, their salts, and their mixtures, - at least one second peroxygen compound P2, different from persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, and - at least one alkaline agent, with b. a composition B, distinct from composition A, comprising: - at least one cationic surfactant, and - at least one non-silicone fatty substance, and c. optionally an aqueous composition C, distinct from compositions A and B, comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent; then (ii) the application of said composition M to the keratin fibers.
[0024] The method according to the invention makes it possible to effectively remove artificial color from keratin fibers previously colored using an oxidation coloring and / or direct coloring composition.
[0025] In addition, the keratin fibers treated using this composition exhibit good fiber integrity as well as a good level of conditioning, particularly in terms of detangling, softness, smoothness to the touch, shine and suppleness. The result obtained is homogeneous and aesthetic.
[0026] The stripping composition M according to the invention is particularly easy to apply homogeneously to keratin fibers and does not diffuse an unpleasant odor.
[0027] The invention also relates to an aqueous cosmetic composition for stripping artificial color from keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one first peroxygen compound PI chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, their salts, and their mixtures, at least one second peroxygen compound P2 different from persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, at least one alkaline agent, at least one cationic surfactant, at least one non-silicone fatty substance, and optionally, at least one chemical oxidizing agent different from the peroxygen compounds PI and P2.
[0028] The invention also relates to a device for stripping artificial color from keratin fibers with several compartments, comprising: - a first compartment comprising a composition A containing at least one first peroxygen compound PI chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, their salts, and their mixtures, at least one second peroxygen compound P2 different from persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, and at least one alkaline agent; - a second compartment comprising a composition B containing at least one cationic surfactant and at least one non-silicone fatty substance; and - possibly a third compartment comprising a composition C, distinct from compositions A and B, containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent different from the peroxygen compounds PI and P2.
[0029] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.
[0030] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated: - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it. - the expression "between... and..." is equivalent to the expression "ranging from... to..." and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included. - By the expression "greater than" and respectively the expression "less than" within the meaning of the present invention, we mean a strictly higher, respectively strictly lower open interval, and therefore that the limits are not included. - By “keratin fibers” according to the present application, we mean in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, even more preferably hair. - For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" means the hair of the head. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows or eyelashes. - By "stripping artificial color from keratin fibers" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, the total or partial removal of artificial color from keratin fibers, previously colored using an oxidation coloring and / or direct coloring composition. - For the purposes of the present invention, the term “chemical oxidizing agent” means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen. - an “alkyl” radical designates a linear or branched, saturated radical, containing for example from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; - an “aminoalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an NH2 group; - a “hydroxyalkyl” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group; - an “alkylene” radical denotes a divalent CrCio saturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene; - a “cycloalkyl” or “alicycloalkyl” radical denotes a mono- or polycyclic, preferably monocyclic, saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, norbornyl, or isobornyl, in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl. it being understood that the cycloalkyl radical may be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobornyl group, - an “aryl” radical is an unsaturated and aromatic hydrocarbon cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 14 carbon atoms, more preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms, mono / bi / or tri / cyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 cycle with 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthlyl, anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical may be substituted by one or more (C1-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents a phenyl; - an “aryloxy” radical denotes an aryl-oxy radical with “aryl” as defined previously; - an “alkoxy” radical denotes an alkyl-oxy radical with “alkyl”, as defined previously.
[0031] Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in the present application, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their tautomers, their salts, alone or in mixture, are also understood to mean.
[0032] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The characteristics of the different examples may in particular be combined within variants not illustrated.
[0033] The process according to the invention comprising at least one step (i) of preparing a composition M, comprising at least the extemporaneous mixture: a. of a composition A comprising: - at least one first peroxygen compound PI chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, their salts, and their mixtures, - at least one second peroxygen compound P2, different from persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, and - at least one alkaline agent, with b. a composition B, distinct from composition A, comprising: - at least one cationic surfactant, and - at least one non-silicone fatty substance, and c. optionally an aqueous composition C, distinct from compositions A and B, comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
[0034] Composition A: Composition A comprises at least one first peroxygen compound PI chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, their salts and their mixtures, at least one second peroxygen compound P2 different from persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, and at least one alkaline agent.
[0035] Preferably, composition A is solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0036] When composition A is solid, it may be in the form of powder, paste, particles (for example spherical particles such as small beads or granules), compressed tablet, stick or loaf. Preferably, composition A is in the form of powder or particles; and more preferably in the form of powder.
[0037] Preferably, composition A is anhydrous. By "anhydrous composition" is meant a composition comprising a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, this water content is less than 1% by weight, better still less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. More particularly, it does not comprise water (0%). In particular, the anhydrous composition does not include any water added during its preparation; any residual water present may come from the raw materials used during the preparation.
[0038] Peroxygen compounds: Composition A comprises at least one first peroxygen compound PI chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, their salts and their mixtures, and at least one second peroxygen compound P2 different from persulfates, perborates and percarbonates.
[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, “a peroxygen compound” is a compound containing at least one peroxide group.
[0040] The peroxygen compound(s) PI are chosen from: - persulfates, in particular of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, or ammonium, such as sodium persulfate or ammonium persulfate; - perborates, in particular of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, or ammonium, such as sodium perborate; - percarbonates, in particular of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, or ammonium, such as sodium percarbonate; - and their mixtures.
[0041] More preferably, the peroxygen compound(s) PI are chosen from per-sulfates.
[0042] Persulfates, also called peroxysulfates, correspond, within the meaning of the invention, to the anions SO52 (peroxomonosulfate anion) or S2O82 (peroxo-disulfate anion) or to compounds comprising at least one of these anions. Preferably, the persulfates according to the invention are chosen from peroxodisulfates.
[0043] More preferably still, the peroxygen compound(s) PI are chosen from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0044] Even better, composition A comprises as peroxygen compounds PI a mixture of sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate.
[0045] Preferably, the total content of peroxygenated compound(s) PI in composition A ranges from 20% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 25% to 70% by weight, even more preferably from 30% to 65% by weight, better still from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0046] Preferably, the total content of peroxygenated compound(s) PI chosen from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, and mixtures thereof, in composition A ranges from 20% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 25% to 70% by weight, even more preferably from 30% to 65% by weight, better still from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0047] For the purposes of the invention, the peroxygen compounds P2 are different from the peroxygen compounds of the persulfate type, of the perborate type, or of the percarbonate type. The peroxygen compounds P2 are thus different from the peroxygen compounds PL
[0048] Preferably, the peroxygen compound(s) P2 other than persulfates, perborates and percarbonates are chosen from the peroxides of the following formula (P): MxO2 (P) in which: - M represents a chemical element, other than hydrogen, belonging to group 1 (i.e. group IA, alkali metals) or group 2 (i.e. group II A, alkaline earth metals) of the periodic table of elements, and - x represents an integer equal to 1 or 2.
[0049] More preferably, the peroxygen compound(s) P2 are chosen from lithium peroxide, sodium peroxide, potassium peroxide, magnesium peroxide, calcium peroxide, strontium peroxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0050] More preferably still, the peroxygenated compound(s) P2 are chosen from magnesium peroxide, calcium peroxide, strontium peroxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0051] Most particularly preferably, composition A comprises strontium peroxide as peroxygen compound P2.
[0052] Preferably, the total content of peroxygenated compound(s) P2 in composition A ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, better still from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0053] Preferably, the total content of peroxygenated compound(s) P2 of formula (P) in composition A ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably still from 5% to 20% by weight, better still from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0054] Preferably, the total content of strontium peroxide in composition A ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably still from 5% to 20% by weight, better still from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0055] Preferably, the sum of the total content of peroxygen compound(s) PI and the total content of peroxygen compound(s) P2 in composition A ranges from 20% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, even more preferably from 40% to 75% by weight, better still from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0056] Preferably, the sum of the total content of peroxygen compound(s) PI chosen from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, and mixtures thereof, and of the total content of peroxygen compound(s) P2 of formula (P) in composition A ranges from 20% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, even more preferably from 40% to 75% by weight, better still from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0057] Preferably, the sum of the total content of peroxygen compound(s) PI chosen from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, and mixtures thereof, and of the total content of strontium peroxide in composition A ranges from 20% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, even more preferably from 40% to 75% by weight, better still from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0058] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of peroxygen compound(s) PI to the total content of peroxygen compound(s) P2 is within the range from 1 to 15, more preferably 1.5 to 10, more preferably still from 2 to 8, and even better still from 3 to 5.
[0059] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of peroxygen compound(s) PI chosen from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, and mixtures thereof, to the total content of peroxygen compound(s) P2 of formula (P) is within the range from 1 to 15, more preferably 1.5 to 10, more preferably still from 2 to 8, and even better still from 3 to 5.
[0060] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of peroxygen compound(s) PI chosen from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, and mixtures thereof, to the total content of strontium peroxide is within the range from 1 to 15, more preferably 1.5 to 10, more preferably still from 2 to 8, and even better still from 3 to 5.
[0061] Alkaline agents: Composition A comprises at least one alkaline agent.
[0062] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) may be chosen from organic alkaline agents and inorganic alkaline agents.
[0063] Preferably, the organic alkaline agent(s) are chosen from organic amines whose pKb at 25°C is less than 12, and more preferably less than 10, even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function. In addition, the organic amines do not comprise a fatty, alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.
[0064] The organic alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, C1 to C4.
[0065] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1 to C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxy radicals.
[0066] Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are alkanolamines chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane. Among the alkanolamines, it is particularly preferred to use monoethanolamine.
[0067] The organic alkaline agent(s) may be chosen from amino acids of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic form and contain at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. Amino acids can be found in neutral or ionic form.
[0068] As amino acids which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
[0069] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a cycle or in a ureido function.
[0070] The organic amine may also be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, mention may be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.
[0071] The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type which may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made, in addition to arginine already mentioned as an amino acid, of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, gly-cocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidino-propionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)-ethane-1-sulfonic acid.
[0072] Among the inorganic alkaline agents which can be used in the process according to the invention, mention may be made of mineral hydroxides.
[0073] The mineral hydroxides may be chosen from hydroxides of alkali or alkaline earth metals, transition metals, and ammonium. As mineral hydroxides, examples that may be mentioned include ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, and zinc hydroxide.
[0074] Among the mineral hydroxides, ammonium hydroxide, also called ammonia, is preferred.
[0075] The inorganic alkaline agent(s) may also be chosen from urea, ammonium salts such as ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate, ammonium phosphate or ammonium nitrate, silicates, phosphates or carbonates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, such as lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, barium, and mixtures thereof, preferably among the silicates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, in particular the meta-silicates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium metasilicate
[0076] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) are chosen from ammonium salts such as ammonium chloride, ammonia, alkali or alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkanolamines, amino acids in neutral or ionic form, in particular basic amino acids, compounds comprising a guanidine function, and mixtures thereof.
[0077] More preferably, the alkaline agent(s) are chosen from alkali or alkaline-earth metal silicates, ammonium salts such as ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof; and even more preferably from alkali or alkaline-earth metal metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, ammonium salts such as ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
[0078] Preferably, the total content of alkaline agent(s) in composition A is within the range from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably still from 2% to 20% by weight, even better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0079] Preferably, the total content of alkali or alkaline-earth metal silicate(s) and ammonium salt(s), when present in composition A, is in the range from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably still from 2% to 20% by weight, even better still from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0080] Anionic surfactants: Preferably, composition A further comprises at least one anionic surfactant.
[0081] Anionic surfactant is understood to mean a surfactant, preferably non-silicone, comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
[0082] In the present description, an entity is described as being "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.
[0083] The anionic surfactants can be chosen from sulfate, sulfonate and carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. A mixture of these surfactants can of course be used.
[0084] It is understood in this description that: - carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), and do not comprise a function sulfate and / or sulfonate; - the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally further comprise one or more carboxylate functions, but do not comprise a sulfate function; and - anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise a carboxylate or sulfonate function.
[0085] The carboxylate anionic surfactants that can be used therefore comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).
[0086] The carboxylate anionic surfactants may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C6-C30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0087] Monoesters of C6-C24 alkyl and poly- Glycoside polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts.
[0088] Preferably, the carboxylate anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture: - acylglutamates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate; - acylsarcosinates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmitoyl sarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate; - acyllactylates, particularly Ci2-C28, or even Ci4-C24, such as behenoyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate; - C6-C24 acylglycinates, especially C12-C20; - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates; - polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24) (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
[0089] The sarcosinate-type surfactants may in particular be chosen from the alkyl(C 6-C 30) sarcosinates of the following formula (I): RC(O)-N(CH3)-CH2-C(O)-OX (I) with - X denoting a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali or alkali-earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine, preferably a hydrogen atom, and - R denoting a linear or branched alkyl group, with 5 to 29 carbon atoms. R preferably denotes a linear or branched alkyl group, with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably with 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0090] Among the alkyl(C6-C30)sarcosinates of formula (I) which can be used in the present composition, mention may be made of palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, myristoyl-sarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates, and cocoylsarcosinates, in acid form or in salified form.
[0091] The anionic surfactant(s) of sarcosinate type are advantageously chosen from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof, preferably from stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof.
[0092] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may also be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds proposed by the company KAO under the names AKYPO.
[0093] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that can be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (II): Rl-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COOA (II) in which: - RI represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, an R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C2i alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably RI is a C8-C20, preferably C8-C18, alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl, - n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10, - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
[0094] Mixtures of compounds of formula (II) may also be used, in particular mixtures of compounds having different RI groups.
[0095] The preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (II) in which: - RI denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or oc-tylphenyl radical, - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and - n varies from 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10.
[0096] More preferably still, RI denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10.
[0097] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that can be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).
[0098] The anionic sulfonate surfactants may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, alkylsulfolaurates, as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0099] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture: - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20, especially laurylsul-fosuccinates. - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20; - N-acyltaurates in C6-C24, in particular in C12-C20 - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates, in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
[0100] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from C6-C24 N-acyltaurates, in particular C12-C20, and in particular N-acyl N-methyltaurates, C6-C24 acylisethionates, in particular C12-C18, as well as their salts and their mixtures.
[0101] More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from C6-C24, in particular C12-C18, acyl isethionates, as well as their salts and their mixtures.
[0102] The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used comprise at least a sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).
[0103] The anionic sulfate surfactants can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkyl-laryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 28, even better from 10 to 24, or even from 12 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be (poly)oxyalkylenated, in particular (poly)oxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0104] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture: - alkyl sulfates, particularly C10-C24, or even C12-C22, - alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C10-C24, or even C12-C22, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
[0105] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
[0106] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.
[0107] Preferably, the salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are used, and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts.
[0108] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic sulfate surfactant, preferably chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, salts of these compounds, and mixtures thereof; the alkyl groups of these compounds preferably comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 28, even better from 10 to 24, or even from 12 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds may be (poly)oxyalkylenated, in particular (poly)oxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
[0109] More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from: - C6-C30 alkyl sulfates, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C24, or even C12-C22 - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, better still C10-C24, or even C12-C22, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate,
[0110] - the salts of these compounds and their mixtures; in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
[0111] More preferably still, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from: - C6-C30 alkyl sulfates, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C24, or even C12-C22; - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate; - the salts of these compounds and their mixtures.
[0112] Better still, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate.
[0113] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) in composition A ranges from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably still from 5% to 18% by weight, better still from 10% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0114] Preferably, the total content of anionic sulfate surfactant(s) in composition A ranges from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably still from 5% to 18% by weight, better still from 10% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0115] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) of C6-C30 alkyl sulfate type in composition A ranges from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably still from 5% to 18% by weight, better still from 10% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0116] Composition B: Composition B comprises at least one cationic surfactant and at least one non-silicone fatty substance.
[0117] Cationic surfactants: Composition B comprises at least one cationic surfactant.
[0118] The cationic surfactants are advantageously chosen from salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0119] Quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include: - quaternary ammonium salts of formula (Ia): (lay in which: - the groups R8 to Ru, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Ru comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; and - X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates or alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonates.
[0120] The aliphatic groups R8 to Ru may be chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30 alkylamide, C1-C22 alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, C1-C22 alkylacetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.
[0121] Mention may in particular be made of halides, in particular chlorides, of tetraalkylammonium such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides.
[0122] Mention may also be made of halides, and in particular chlorides, of palmitylami-dopropyltrimethylammonium or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium; in particular the product marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.
[0123] - the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (IIa): IR,. \____ / 'R^ | in which Ri2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R[4 represents a CrC4 alkyl group, Ris represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion, in particular chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates or alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonates.
[0124] Preferably, Rn and Rn denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R[4 denotes a methyl group, R[5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik.
[0125] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula (Ilia): B? BU — — N-— R^ Ba R20 in which:
[0126] - Ri6 denotes an alkyl group comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms even partially hydroxylated and / or possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, - Rn denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), R16a, Rna, R18a, identical or different denoting hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, - Ri8, Rw, R7o and R2i, identical or different, denote hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and - X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.
[0127] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) offered by the company FINETEX.
[0128] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of following formula (IVa): ---------FU O [ '' —0-)-¾ x 0Va) B in which: - R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and hydroxyalkyl groups or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl, - R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27; and the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29; and the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, - rl and tl, identical or different, are worth 0 or 1, - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, - x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, - X is an anion, it being understood that r2+ rl= 2r and tl+ t2= 2t, and that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, provided that when x = 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z = 0 then R25 denotes R29.
[0129] The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
[0130] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.
[0131] When R23 is a hydrocarbon group R27, it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or else comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0132] When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
[0133] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched.
[0134] Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.
[0135] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
[0136] Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
[0137] The anion X is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl(CrC4)sulfate, an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonate or an alkyl(CrC4)aryl-sulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate or any other anion compatible with ester-functional ammonium. The anion X is more particularly a chloride, a methylsulfate or an ethylsulfate.
[0138] More particularly, the ammonium salts of formula (IVa) are used in the composition according to the invention, in which: - R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, - x and y are equal to 1, - z is equal to 0 or 1, - r, s and t are equal to 2, - R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0139] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
[0140] Among the compounds of formula (IVa) there may be mentioned salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.
[0141] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, on fatty acids, or on mixtures of fatty acids, in particular of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification may be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company Evonik.
[0142] Composition B may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
[0143] Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
[0144] Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from those of formula (Ia), of formula (IVa), and their mixtures.
[0145] More preferably, composition B comprises at least one cationic surfactant chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate and mixtures thereof.
[0146] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in composition B is in the range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferably between 1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0147] Preferably, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof, in composition B is within the range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferably between 1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0148] Non-silicone fatty substances: Composition B comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance.
[0149] By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1,013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% and preferably 1%, even more preferably 0.1% by weight). Non-silicone fatty substances (i.e. fatty substances not comprising a silicon atom in their structure) have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, non-silicone fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), vaseline oil or decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane.
[0150] The non-silicone fatty substances of the invention do not contain salified carboxylic acid groups.
[0151] Furthermore, the non-silicone fatty substances of the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated.
[0152] Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substance(s) are chosen from non-silicone fatty substances liquid silicones, solid non-silicone fatty substances, and their mixtures; more preferably among solid non-silicone fatty substances.
[0153] By “liquid fatty substance” or “oil” is meant a “fatty substance” which is liquid at room temperature (25°C), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1,013.105 Pa).
[0154] By “solid fatty substance” is meant a “fatty substance” which is solid at room temperature (25°C), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1,013.105 Pa).
[0155] - Liquid non-silicone fatty substances Composition B may comprise one or more non-silicone liquid fatty substances. These may be chosen in particular from liquid fatty alcohols; mineral, vegetable or animal oils; liquid fatty esters; liquid hydrocarbons, and mixtures thereof.
[0156] Liquid fatty alcohols may be linear or branched; they preferably comprise 8 to 30 carbon atoms; they may be saturated or unsaturated.
[0157] The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic cycle. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, as well as palmityl, myristyl, stearyl and lauryl alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0158] The liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, they are preferably 2 or 3 in number, and they may or may not be conjugated. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic cycle. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols are chosen from oleyl alcohol (or oleyl), linoleyl alcohol (or linolenic), linolenic (or lino-lenyl) alcohol and undecylenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0159] Among the mineral, vegetable or animal oils that may be used, mention may in particular be made of: as oils of vegetable origin: sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, grape seed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, corn oil, hazelnut oil, shea butter, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, evening primrose oil, camelina oil; as oils of animal origin: perhydrosqualene; as oils of mineral origin: paraffin oil and vaseline oil; and their mixtures.
[0160] The liquid fatty esters may be esters of monoalcohols or polyols with mono or polyacids, at least one of the alcohols and / or acids comprising at least at least one chain of more than 7 carbon atoms. Preferably, the liquid fatty ester according to the invention is chosen from fatty acid and monoalcohol esters. Preferably, at least one of the alcohols and / or acids is branched. Mention may be made of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl or isostearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, Purcellin oil (stearyl octanoate), isopropyl lanolate and mixtures thereof.
[0161] By liquid hydrocarbon is meant a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, liquid at 25°C, 1 atm, in particular of mineral or vegetable origin, preferably of vegetable origin.
[0162] As liquid hydrocarbon capable of being used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of:
[0163] - C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, possibly cyclic; we can cite hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane.
[0164] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, in particular of animal or mineral origin synthetic, with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, petrolatum, vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as that sold under the Parléam® brand by the NOF Corporation, squalane.
[0165] Preferably, the non-silicone liquid fatty substances are chosen from oils of vegetable origin, liquid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from oils of vegetable origin, liquid fatty esters of C9-C26 monocarboxylic acid and C2-C8 monoalcohol, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from oils of vegetable origin, liquid fatty esters of C9-C26 monocarboxylic acid and C2-C4 monoalcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0166] Preferably, the total content of non-silicone liquid fatty body(ies) in composition B is in the range from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0167] - Non-silicone solid fatty substances Composition B may comprise one or more non-silicone solid fatty substances. These may be chosen in particular from solid fatty alcohols; solid fatty esters, ceramides, animal, vegetable or mineral waxes other than ceramides; and mixtures thereof.
[0168] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned are cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol).
[0169] The solid fatty esters that can be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C8-C24 monocarboxylic acids and C8-C24 alcohols. Mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, isononyl isononanoate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.
[0170] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols. Mention may in particular be made of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate and dioctyl maleate.
[0171] In particular, it is preferred to use C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate or mixtures of myristyl palmitate and myristyl stearate.
[0172] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which may be used in the composition according to the invention, are known in themselves; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification; these are molecules which may correspond to the following formula: R.CHCH—CH—CH^OR, NH C™O R, in which: - Ri denotes an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid; - R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; - R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.
[0173] The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated C15 group.
[0174] Preferably, ceramides are used for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0175] It is also possible to use compounds for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0176] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-oc-tadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine; 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)cetyl acid amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof.
[0177] A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).
[0178] As waxes other than the above ceramides which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; vegetable waxes such as Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Alfa wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes; mineral waxes, for example paraffin, vaseline, lignite, waxes microcrystalline, ozokerites, and their mixtures.
[0179] Preferably, the non-silicone solid fatty substances are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from (1) fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 24 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetyl-stearyl alcohol), (2) esters of C8-C24 monocarboxylic acids and C8-C24 alcohols, and (3) mixtures thereof.
[0180] Preferably, the total content of non-silicone solid fatty body(ies) in composition B is within the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, even better from 1% to 10% by weight, or even from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0181] More preferably, composition B comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance chosen from oils of vegetable origin, solid fatty esters, solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0182] More preferably still, composition B comprises at least one non-silicone fatty substance chosen from (1) oils of plant origin, (2) fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 24 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), (3) solid fatty esters of C8-C24 monocarboxylic acid and C8-C24 alcohol, and (4) mixtures thereof.
[0183] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition B comprises at least one non-silicone solid fatty body chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from (1) fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 24 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), (2) esters of C8-C24 monocarboxylic acids and C8-C24 alcohols, and (3) mixtures thereof.
[0184] Preferably, the total content of non-silicone fatty body(ies) in composition B is within the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, even better from 1% to 12% by weight, or even from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0185] Preferably, composition B may comprise water.
[0186] Preferably, the total water content in composition B is in the range from 50% to 98% by weight, more preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, even better from 70% to 92% by weight, or even from 80% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0187] Preferably, composition B is free of chemical oxidizing agent. For the purposes of the present invention, chemical oxidizing agents include between other peroxygen compounds described for composition A above as well as the chemical oxidizing agents described below for composition C.
[0188] More preferably, composition B comprises a content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) of less than 0.1% by weight, better still less than 0.05% by weight, even better still less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the weight of composition B.
[0189] Composition C: Preferably, step (i) of preparing a composition M according to the invention further comprises extemporaneous mixing with an aqueous composition C comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
[0190] According to the invention, composition C is different from composition A and composition B.
[0191] Chemical oxidizing agents: Composition C comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
[0192] The chemical oxidizing agent(s) that can be used in composition C may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their possible cofactors) among which mention may be made of peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricases and 4-electron oxygenases such as laccases, and mixtures thereof.
[0193] Advantageously, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) present in composition C are different from the peroxygen compounds PI and P2 of composition A.
[0194] More preferably, composition C comprises hydrogen peroxide.
[0195] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the com position C is included in the range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably still from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0196] Non-ionic surfactants: Preferably, composition C further comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.
[0197] Examples of non-ionic surfactants that can be used in composition C are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Ci-C2o)phenols or fatty acids, these compounds being polyoxyethylenated, polyoxypropylenated and / or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 100 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.
[0198] Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C6 to C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, N-(C6 to C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10 to C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10 to C15 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0199] The non-ionic surfactant(s) in composition C may more particularly be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols such as polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups being able to range from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups being able to range from 2 to 30.
[0200] Preferably, the polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols are chosen from non-ionic surfactants of formula (I): RO-(CH2-CH2-O)nH (I) in which: R is a linear or branched alkenyl radical, C8 to C40, and n is an integer ranging from 6 to 70.
[0201] Preferably, R represents an alkenyl radical, linear or branched, from C[2 to C30, and more preferably from C1 to C24.
[0202] Preferably, n represents an integer ranging from 10 to 60.
[0203] Advantageously, R represents a linear or branched alkenyl radical, C1 to C22; and / or n represents an integer ranging from 10 to 60.
[0204] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units.
[0205] Mention may in particular be made of esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids (preferably C12-C18) and of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, more particularly being able to be chosen from esters of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide.
[0206] The non-ionic surfactant(s) that can be used may be chosen from alkyl(poly)glycoside non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
[0207] By “alkyl(poly)glycoside” is meant an alkylpolyglycoside or an alkylmono-glycoside also called alkylglycoside in the present application, which can be alkoxylated by one or more alkylene oxide groups, preferably C2 to C4.
[0208] The non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s) used, alone or in mixture(s), in accordance with the present invention may be represented by the following formula (II): R1O-(R2O)t(G)v (II) formula (II), in which: - Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group contains from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene group comprising approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a saccharide unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, and -v denotes a value from 1 to 15.
[0209] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s) correspond to formula (II) in which: - Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, and preferably glucose, -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, and is preferably equal to 0, and - R2 and v are as defined previously.
[0210] Preferably, composition C comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols; more preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of formula (I).
[0211] Preferably, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) in composition C is within the range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0212] Preferably, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, in composition C is within the range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0213] Preferably, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of formula (I), in composition C is within the range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0214] Preferably, composition C further comprises at least one non-fatty substance silicone as described previously for composition B.
[0215] Preferably, composition C may comprise water.
[0216] Preferably, the total water content in composition C is in the range from 50% to 98% by weight, more preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, even better from 70% to 92% by weight, or even from 75% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.
[0217] Composition A, B and / or C may also contain any adjuvant or additive usually used in cosmetic compositions intended for the treatment of keratin fibers.
[0218] Among the additives that may be contained in compositions A, B and / or C, mention may be made of polymers, colorants and / or pigments, moisturizing agents, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, peptizers, perfumes, amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0219] Method: The process for stripping artificial color from keratin fibers according to the invention comprises at least one step (i) of preparing composition M and one step (ii) of applying it to the keratin fibers.
[0220] According to the invention, step (i) is carried out before step (ii).
[0221] The process according to the invention is a process for stripping artificial color from keratin fibers. The keratin fibers intended to be treated with the process according to the invention have previously been colored using a dyeing composition comprising one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes.
[0222] Preferably, when the process according to the invention does not comprise mixing with a composition C, the mixing (i) of composition A with composition B is carried out according to a weight ratio of 1g of composition A for 1g to 10g of composition B, more preferably for 2g to 5g of composition B. In other words, the weight ratio A:B ranges from 1:1 to 1:10, more preferably from 1:2 to 1:5.
[0223] Preferably, when the method according to the invention comprises mixing with a composition C, the mixture (i) of composition A with composition B and composition C is carried out according to a weight ratio of 1 g of composition A for 0.1 g to 1 g of composition B and 1 g to 5 g of composition C, more preferably for 0.2 g to 0.8 g of composition B and 1 g to 3 g of composition C. In other words, the weight ratio A: B: C ranges from 1: 0.1: 1 to 1: 1: 5, more preferably from 1: 0.2: 1 to 1: 0.8: 3.
[0224] Once the composition M has been applied to the keratin fibres, the keratin fibres can be left in the open air or wrapped, for example using a cellophane film.
[0225] Preferably, a step of applying the composition M to the keratin fibers is carried out after the application step (ii), in which the composition M is left on the keratin fibers for between 1 minute and 1 hour, more preferably between 2 minutes and 40 minutes, even more preferably between 5 minutes and 35 minutes, and even better between 10 minutes and 30 minutes.
[0226] Preferably, a step of rinsing the keratin fibers is carried out after step (ii) of application, and after the optional laying step.
[0227] The term “rinsing step” means the application of water to the keratin fibers.
[0228] More preferably, a step of rinsing the keratin fibers is carried out less than four hours after step (ii), more preferably still less than two hours after step (ii), and after the possible laying step.
[0229] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, step (ii) of the method according to the invention is carried out several times. In other words, the application of composition M to the keratin fibers can be repeated. Preferably, the composition M prepared extemporaneously is applied at least twice, more preferably at least three times, to the keratin fibers.
[0230] According to this embodiment, an intermediate rinsing step of the keratin fibers can be carried out between each step (ii) of repeated application, and after any laying steps.
[0231] The invention also relates to a ready-to-use aqueous cosmetic composition, comprising: a. at least one first peroxygen compound PI chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, their salts, and their mixtures, b. at least one second peroxygen compound P2 different from persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, c. at least one alkaline agent, d. at least one cationic surfactant, e. at least one non-silicone fatty substance, and f. optionally, at least one chemical oxidizing agent different from the peroxygen compounds PI and P2.
[0232] The ingredients of the ready-to-use composition are as described above.
[0233] The preferences and embodiments of the ingredients described for compositions A, B and C are also applicable to the ingredients of the ready-to-use cosmetic composition.
[0234] According to the invention, the ready-to-use cosmetic composition comprises water.
[0235] Preferably, the total water content in the ready-to-use cosmetic composition is in the range from 30% to 95% by weight, more preferably primarily from 35% to 90% by weight, even better from 40% to 85% by weight, or even from 45% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use cosmetic composition.
[0236] According to a preferred embodiment, the ready-to-use aqueous cosmetic composition: a. at least one first peroxygen compound PI chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, their salts, and their mixtures, b. at least one second peroxygen compound P2 different from persulfates, perborates and percarbonates; preferably chosen from peroxides of formula (P) as described above, c. at least one alkaline agent, preferably chosen from ammonium salts such as ammonium chloride, ammonia, alkali or alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkanolamines, amino acids in neutral or ionic form, compounds comprising a guanidine function, and mixtures thereof, d. at least one cationic surfactant, preferably chosen from those of formula (Ia) or (IVa) as described above, and mixtures thereof e. at least one non-silicone fatty substance, preferably chosen from oils of vegetable origin, solid fatty esters, solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, f. optionally, at least one chemical oxidizing agent different from the peroxygen compounds PI and P2, g. optionally at least one anionic surfactant, and h. optionally at least one non-ionic surfactant.
[0237] According to another preferred embodiment, the ready-to-use aqueous cosmetic composition: a. at least one first peroxygen compound PI chosen from persulfates, b. at least one second peroxygen compound P2, different from the first peroxygen compound PI, chosen from lithium peroxide, sodium peroxide, potassium peroxide, magnesium peroxide, calcium peroxide, strontium peroxide, and mixtures thereof; preferably from magnesium peroxide, calcium peroxide, strontium peroxide, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still strontium peroxide, c. at least one alkaline agent chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metal metasilicates, d. at least one cationic surfactant chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride or methosulfate methylammonium and their mixtures, e. at least one non-silicone fatty substance chosen from oils of vegetable origin, fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 24 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture, solid fatty esters of C8-C24 monocarboxylic acid and C8-C24 alcohol, and their mixtures, f. hydrogen peroxide, g. at least one anionic surfactant, and h. at least one non-ionic surfactant.
[0238] The invention also relates to a device for stripping artificial color from keratin fibers with several compartments, comprising: - a first compartment comprising a composition A as described above, containing at least one first peroxygen compound PI chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, their salts and their mixtures, at least one second peroxygen compound P2, different from persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, and at least one alkaline agent; - a second compartment comprising a composition B as described above, containing at least one cationic surfactant and at least one non-silicone fatty substance; and - optionally a third compartment comprising a composition C as described above, distinct from compositions A and B, containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent different from the peroxygen compounds PI and P2.
[0239] The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention. Examples:
[0240] Compositions A1, A2 and B were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed in % by weight of active material (AM).
[0241] [Tables 1] Ingredients Al (Inv) A2 (Hors-inv) Sodium persulfate 33 33 Potassium persulfate 20 31.5 Strontium peroxide 11.5 - Sodium metasilicate 9 9 Sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate 1.7 1.7 Sodium lauryl sulfate 14 14 Cellulose gum 4 4 Ammonium chloride 5 5 Preservatives 1.3 1.3 Pigments 0.50 0.50
[0242] [Tables2] Composition B (Inv) Behentrimonium Chloride 2,4 Cetyl Esters 1 Cetearyl Alcohol 6 Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 0.7 Isopropyl Alcohol 0.5 2-Oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol 0.01 pH Agent Qs Perfume Qs Preservatives Qs Water Qsp 100
[0243] Example 1: A stripping composition Ml according to the invention was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, composition Al according to the invention (table 1) with composition B (table 2), according to a weight ratio of 1g of composition Al for 3g of composition B.
[0244] A comparative stripping composition M2 was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, the composition Al according to the invention (Table 1) with water, according to the weight ratio of 1g of composition Al to 2.14g of water.
[0245] Each of the stripping compositions M1 and M2 was applied to a lock of Caucasian HT5 hair previously colored with a Majirouge® Carmilane 6.66 coloring at a rate of 10g of composition per 1g of lock.
[0246] Each composition is applied to the entire strand with the help of a brush.
[0247] Each lock of hair is then left for 20 minutes at room temperature in the open air, on plates thermostatically controlled at 33°C. Each lock of hair is then rinsed, then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0248] The stripping of the artificial coloring of the hair strands was then evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).
[0249] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the color intensity, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.
[0250] The stripping of artificial coloring is evaluated by the color difference AE between the colored strands before stripping, then after having undergone stripping according to the protocol described above. The higher the value of AE, the more the artificial coloring is removed.
[0251] The value of AE is calculated according to the following equation: ■ LV + or • sy T +: or ü, T
[0252] In this equation, for stripping artificial coloring, L*, a*, b* represent the values measured after stripping, and Lo*, a0*, b0* represent the values measured before stripping (HT5 Majirouge® Carmilane 6.66 not stripped).
[0253] The results obtained on strands of Caucasian HT5 hair previously colored with a Majirouge® Carmilane 6.66 coloring are grouped in the table below:
[0254] [Tables3] Highlights L* a* b* AE Control (Majirouge® Carmilane 6.66) 19 3 0 - Composition Ml (Invention) 19 7 2 4.4 Composition M2 (Comparative) 18 4 1 1.7
[0255] The locks of hair after the application of composition M1 of the method of the invention have a greater AE value, compared to the locks of hair after the application of composition M2 of the comparative method (Al+water).
[0256] The stripping of the artificial coloring according to the method according to the invention comprising the application of the composition M1 is better compared to the comparative method comprising the application of the composition M2.
[0257] Example 2: A stripping composition M3 according to the invention was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, composition Al according to the invention (table 1) with composition B (table 2) and an oxidizing composition containing 9% hydrogen peroxide, according to the weight ratio of 1g of composition Al for 0.5g of composition B and 2g of oxidizing composition.
[0258] A comparative stripping composition M4 was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, the composition Al according to the invention (Table 1) with an oxidizing composition containing 9% hydrogen peroxide (30% voi), according to the weight ratio of 28g of composition Al for 75 mL of oxidizing composition.
[0259] Each of the stripping compositions M3 and M4 was applied to a lock of Caucasian HT5 hair previously colored with a Majirel® 5 coloring.
[0260] Each composition is applied to the entire strand using a brush.
[0261] Each lock of hair is then left for 20 minutes at room temperature in the open air. Each lock of hair is then rinsed and then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0262] The stripping of the artificial coloring from the locks of hair was then evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, according to the protocol of example 1 above.
[0263] The results obtained from strands of Caucasian HT5 hair previously colored with Majirel® 5 coloring are grouped in the table below:
[0264] [Tables 4] Wicks L* a* b* AE Control (HT5 Majirel® 5 not stripped) 17 0 0 - Composition M3 (Invention) 24 8 8 13.3 Composition M4 (Comparative) 23 6 7 11.0
[0265] The strands of hair after the application of composition M3 of the method of the invention have a higher AE value, compared to the hair strands after the application of composition M4 of the comparative process (Al+oxidant).
[0266] The stripping of artificial coloring according to a method according to the invention comprising the application of composition M3 is better compared to the comparative method comprising the application of composition M4.
[0267] Example 3: A comparative stripping composition M5 was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, the non-inventive composition A2 (table 1) with composition B (table 2), according to the weight ratio of 1g of composition A2 to 3g of composition B.
[0268] The comparative stripping composition M5 is compared with the stripping composition M1 according to the invention of example 1 above.
[0269] Each of the stripping compositions M1 and M5 was applied to a lock of Caucasian HT5 hair previously colored with a Majirouge® Carmilane 6.66 coloring.
[0270] Each composition is applied to the entire strand using a brush.
[0271] Each lock of hair is then left for 20 minutes at room temperature in the open air. Each lock of hair is then rinsed and then dried with a hairdryer for 2 minutes.
[0272] The stripping of the artificial coloring from the locks of hair was then evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, according to the protocol of example 1 above.
[0273] The results obtained on strands of Caucasian HT5 hair previously colored with a Majirouge® Carmilane 6.66 coloring are grouped in the table below:
[0274] [Tables5] Highlights L* a* b* AE Control (Majirouge® Carmilane 6.66) 19 3 0 - Composition Ml (Invention) 19 7 2 4.4 Composition M5 (Comparative) 18 3 0 1.0
[0275] The locks of hair after the application of the composition Ml of the process of the invention have a greater AE value, compared to the locks of hair after application of composition M5 of the comparative process.
[0276] The stripping of the artificial coloring according to the method according to the invention comprising the application of the composition M1 is better compared to the comparative method comprising the application of the composition M5.
[0277] Furthermore, it has been observed that the stripping compositions M1 and M3 according to the invention do not have a particularly unpleasant odor.
[0278] It has also been observed that the locks of hair treated with the stripping compositions M1 and M3 according to the invention have better cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of detangling and softness to the touch, compared to the locks of hair treated with the comparative compositions M2, M4 and M5.
Claims
Claims
1. Process for stripping artificial color from keratin fibers, comprising at least the following steps: (i) the preparation of a composition M, comprising at least the extemporaneous mixture: a. of a composition A comprising: - at least one first peroxygen compound PI chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, their salts, and their mixtures, - at least one second peroxygen compound P2, different from persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, and - at least one alkaline agent, with b. a composition B, distinct from composition A, comprising: - at least one cationic surfactant, and - at least one non-silicone fatty substance; then (ii) the application of said composition M to the keratin fibers.
2. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that composition A is anhydrous.
3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first peroxygenated compound(s) PI are chosen from persulfates; more preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; better still from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; and even better still a mixture of sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate.
4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second peroxygenated compound(s) P2 are chosen from the peroxides of the following formula (P): MxO2 (P) in which: - M represents a chemical element, other than hydrogen, belonging to group 1 or group 2 of the periodic table of elements, and - x represents an integer equal to 1 or 2.
5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second peroxygenated compound(s) P2 are chosen from lithium peroxide, sodium peroxide, potassium peroxide, magnesium peroxide, calcium peroxide, strontium peroxide, and mixtures thereof; preferably from magnesium peroxide, calcium peroxide, strontium peroxide, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still strontium peroxide.
6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of peroxygenated compound(s) P2 ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, better still from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkaline agent(s) are chosen from ammonium salts, ammonia, alkali or alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkanolamines, amino acids in neutral or ionic form, compounds comprising a guanidine function, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates, ammonium salts such as ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof; and even more preferably from alkali or alkaline earth metal metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, ammonium salts such as ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sum of the total content of peroxygen compound(s) PI and the total content of peroxygen compound(s) P2 ranges from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 75% by weight, better still from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition A further comprises at least one anionic surfactant; preferably chosen from: - C6-C30 alkyl sulfates, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C24, or even C12-C22, - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, better still C10-C24, or even C12-C22, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, - C6-C24 alkyl sulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, - salts of these compounds and their mixtures; more preferably among the C6-C30 alkyl sulfates, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C24, or even C12-C22, the C6-C24 alkyl sulfosuccinates, better still C12-C20, in particular sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, their salts and their mixtures.
10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from: - quaternary ammonium salts of formula (Ia): (there) in which: - the groups R8 to Ru, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Ru comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; and - X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates or alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonates, - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of the following formula (IVa): îC.H ..O?,........ O p - ■- —GQ—CtH,2(OH)^'K——rO "x (IVa) R . in which: - R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups, - R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27; and the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29; and the atom of hydrogen, - R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - r, s and t, identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6, - rl and tl, identical or different, are 0 or 1, - y is an integer from 1 to 10, - x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, - X is an anion, it being understood that r2+ rl= 2r and tl+ t2= 2t, and that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, provided that when x = 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z = 0 then R25 denotes R29, - and mixtures thereof; more preferably chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof;more preferably still among behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate and mixtures thereof.;
11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-silicone fatty substance(s) are chosen from oils of vegetable origin, solid fatty esters, solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from oils of vegetable origin, fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 24 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, solid fatty esters of C8-C24 monocarboxylic acid and C8-C24 alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition B is free from chemical oxidizing agent.
13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that step (i) of preparing a composition M, further comprises extemporaneous mixing with an aqueous composition C, distinct from compositions A and B, comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
14. A method according to any preceding claim, comprising, after step (ii), a step of rinsing the keratin fibers, preferably less than four hours after step (ii), more preferably less than two hours after step (ii).
15. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that step (ii) is repeated several times, preferably at least twice, more preferably at least three times.
16. Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising: a. at least one first peroxygen compound PI chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, their salts and their mixtures, b. at least one second peroxygen compound P2 different from persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, c. at least one alkaline agent, d. at least one cationic surfactant, e. at least one non-silicone fatty substance, and f. optionally, at least one chemical oxidizing agent different from the peroxygen compounds PI and P2.
17. Device for stripping artificial color from keratin fibers with several compartments, comprising: - a first compartment comprising a composition A as defined in claims 1 to 9, containing at least one first peroxygen compound PI chosen from persulfates, perborates, percarbonates, their salts and their mixtures, at least one second peroxygen compound P2 different from persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, and at least one alkaline agent; - a second compartment comprising a composition B as defined in claims 1 and 10 to 12, containing at least one cationic surfactant and at least one non-silicone fatty substance; and - possibly a third compartment comprising a composition C, distinct from compositions A and B, containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent different from the peroxygen compounds PI and P2.
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