COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ANIONIC AND AMPHOTOREAL SURFACTANTS, AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION, A NON-IONIC POLYSACCHARIDE(S) AND A FATTY SUBSTANCE(S)

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprising anionic and amphoteric surfactants, an oil-in-water emulsion, non-ionic polysaccharide(s) and fatty substance(s) The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants (a), one or more amphoteric surfactants (b) and one or more oil-in-water emulsions (c) having a particle size D50 less than 350 nm, the size being expressed in volume, and comprising: – a mixture of silicones comprising: (i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl terminal groups, having a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine index ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone; – a surfactant mixture comprising one or more nonionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16; and – water; at least one nonionic polysaccharide (d) and at least one fatty compound (e). Figure for the abstract: none.

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ANIONIC AND AMPHOTOREOUS SURFACTANTS, AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION, A NON-IONIC POLYSACCHARIDE(S) AND A FATTY SUBSTANCE(S)

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the cleansing and revitalization of keratinous fibers, and in particular of human keratinous fibers such as hair, which comprises at least one anionic surfactant (a), at least one amphoteric surfactant (b), a particular oil-in-water emulsion (c), at least one non-ionic polysaccharide (d) and at least one fatty substance (e).

[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleaning and revitalizing keratin fibers using this composition.

[0003] Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for the cleaning and revitalization of keratinous fibers.

[0004] In the field of hair washing and hair care, rinse-off and leave-in products are used. These products aim to provide good cleansing performance as well as various cosmetic properties, such as smooth texture, shine, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel, and good detangling properties.

[0005] However, these products result in compositions with insufficient foaming qualities, particularly in terms of creamy texture and foam smoothness. Indeed, the foams are generally less creamy and less dense.

[0006] In addition, these products do not give hair a high cosmetic quality, in terms, for example, of smooth texture, shine, softness and detangling properties.

[0007] There is therefore a need to develop cosmetic compositions which effectively remove dirt, perspiration, sebum and other inorganic particles from keratinous fibers such as hair, and which overcome the aforementioned disadvantages while improving cosmetic properties.

[0008] The Applicant has now discovered that the combination of one or more anionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, a particular oil-in-water emulsion, one or more non-ionic polysaccharides and one or more fatty substances makes it possible to achieve the objectives reviewed above.

[0009] Thus, an object of the invention is a cosmetic composition for washing and re Vitalization of keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair, including: a. one or more anionic surfactants, b. one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, c. an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 less than 350 nm, the size being expressed by volume, and comprising:

[0010] - a mixture of silicones comprising: i. one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trial-kylsilyl terminal groups, having a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s and ii. one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone;

[0011] - a mixture of surfactants comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16; and

[0012] -water; a. one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, and b. one or more fatty substances.

[0013] In particular, said composition provides excellent foaming properties in terms of light and fluffy texture, improved working qualities (easy application), and enhanced cosmetic properties such as a smooth texture and ease of combing through hair strands. The compositions resemble whipped creams.

[0014] The composition has a viscosity ranging preferably from 350 to 800 centipoise (cps) (350 to 800 mPa.s), more preferably from 400 to 700 cps (400 to 700 mPa.s), better from 500 to 600 cps (500 to 600 mPa.s), as measured using an M4 spindle rheometer at a temperature of 25 °C, for 30 s and at a speed of 200 rpm.

[0015] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleaning and revitalizing keratinous fibers, preferably human keratinous fibers, such as hair, using this composition.

[0016] Another subject of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for the cleaning and revitalization of keratinous fibers, preferably human keratinous fibers, such as hair.

[0017] According to the present application, the term "keratinous fibers" preferably refers to human keratinous fibers, and in particular hair. "Hair" in the present invention means the hair fibers of the head.

[0018] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.

[0019] In the text below, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, for example in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to...".

[0020] Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0021] Anionic surfactant(s) (a)

[0022] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant as the first essential component.

[0023] The expression "anionic surfactant" designates a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

[0024] In the present description, a species is said to be "anionic" when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

[0025] Anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. It goes without saying that a mixture of these surfactants may be used.

[0026] It is understood in this description that: • Anionic carboxylate surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions; • Anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise carboxylate functions; and • Anionic sulfate surfactants include at least one sulfate function, but do not include carboxylate or sulfonate functions.

[0027] The carboxylic anionic surfactants that can be used thus include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).

[0028] They can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl(C6-C30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-C30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkyllamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds.

[0029] The alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designates a phenyl or benzyl group.

[0030] These compounds are optionally polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated, and preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and even better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide patterns.

[0031] C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycosides-polycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and their salts, can also be used.

[0032] Among the carboxylic surfactants mentioned above, special mention should also be made of polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and in particular ethylene oxide, such as the compounds sold by the Kao company under the name Akypo,

[0033] The polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that can be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (I): R.^OCMVOCH / 3OOA (1)

[0034] in which • Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a C8-C9 alkylphenyl radical, an R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C2 alkyl or alkenyl radical,

[0035] preferably, Ri is an alkyl radical in C8-C20 and preferably in C8-C,8 and aryl preferably designates phenyl, • n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10, • A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a residue of monoethanolamine or triethanolamine.

[0036] It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (I), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different Rb groups

[0037] The polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (I) in which: • Ri designates an alkyl radical in the form Ci2-Ci4, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl, • A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and • n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.

[0038] Even more preferably, compounds of formula (I) are used in which R designates an alkyl radical in Ci2, A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom and n goes from 2 to 10.

[0039] Preferably, carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from among: • acylglutamates, particularly C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as stea- roylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate; • acylsarcosinates, particularly in C6-C24 or even in Ci2-C2o, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate; • acyllactylates, particularly in Ci2-C28 or even in Ci4-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate; • C6-C24 and in particular Ci2-C20acylglycinates; • (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates and in particular (C12-C20)alkyl ether carboxylates; • (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether polyoxyalkylened carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; • in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0040] Sulfonate anionic surfactants that can be used include at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).

[0041] They may be selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds. The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, preferably from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designates a phenyl or benzyl group.

[0042] These compounds are optionally polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and even better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0043] Preferably, anionic sulfonate surfactants are selected, alone or in mixtures, from among: • C6-C24 and in particular C2-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates; • C6-C24 and in particular Ci2-C20alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; • (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates, • in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0044] The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used include at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).

[0045] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkylamide sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates and also salts of these compounds.

[0046] The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designates a phenyl or benzyl group.

[0047] These compounds are optionally polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and even better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0048] Preferably, anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from among: • alkyl sulfates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C2O, • Alkyl ether sulfates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, including preference for 2 to 20 ethylene oxide patterns; • in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0049] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salt.

[0050] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be cited include mono-ethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0051] Salts of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

[0052] Preferably, anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from among: • C6-C24 and in particular Ci2-C20 alkyl sulfates; • C6-C24 and in particular C2-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide patterns; • C6-C24 and in particular C2-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates; • C6-C24 and in particular Ci2-C20alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; • (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates; • C6-C24 and in particular Ci2-C20acylsarcosinates; in particular palmitoyl-sarcosinates; • (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C12-C20)alkyl ether carboxylates; • (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether polyoxyalkylened carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and in particular, ethylene oxide groups; • C6-C24 and in particular Ci2-C2oacylglutamates; • C6-C24 and in particular Ci2-C20acylglycinates; • in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0053] More preferably, the anionic surfactants are of the alkyl sulfate type and are preferably chosen from salts, in particular salts of alkali metals such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or salts of alkaline earth metals, for example magnesium salts, alkyl sulfates, alkylamide sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates and mixtures thereof.

[0054] The alkyl radical of all these various compounds preferably contains from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group.

[0055] Suitable anionic surfactants in the composition of the present invention can be oxyethylated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, and even better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0056] Even more preferably, anionic surfactants are chosen from the salts of Ci2-Ci4 alkyl ether sulfate, such as lauryl ether sulfate salts.

[0057] The anionic surfactant(s) (a) is / are preferably present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 5% to 25% by weight and even better from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Surfactants) amphoteric or zwitterionic (b)

[0059] The second essential component of the cosmetic composition of the invention is at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.

[0060] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may, in particular, be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate group. Examples include (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2oalkyl)amido(C3-C8alkyl)betaines, and (C8-C2oalkyl)amido(C6-C8alkyl)sulfobetaines.

[0061] Among the secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, we can also mention the composed of the respective structures (II) and (III) below:

[0062] Ra-C(O)-N(Z)CH2(CH2)mN+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2C(O)O, M\

[0063] in which • Ra represents a C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; • Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; • Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; • M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; and • X represents an organic or mineral anionic counter-ion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; • m is equal to 0, 1, or 2; and • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.

[0064] Or, in alternative, M+ and X are absent;

[0065] Ra-C(O)-N(Z)-CH2-(CH2)mN(B)(B') (III)

[0066] in which • B represents the group -CH2CH2-OX'; • B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; • X' represents the group -CH2-C(O)OH, -CH2-C(O)OZ', -CH2-CH2-C(O)OH, - CH2-CH2-C(O)OZ' or a hydrogen atom; • Y' represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ', -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z'; • Z' represents a cationic counter-ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; • Ra represents a C6-C30 alkyl or C6-C30 alkenyl group of an acid R, -COOH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, in particular a Cn alkyl group and its iso form, or an unsaturated Cp group; • m' is equal to 0, 1, or 2; and • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.

[0067] Compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodi-propionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoam-phodipropionic acid and hydroxyethylcarboxymethylcocamidopropylamine.

[0068] Among the non-limiting examples that can be cited are the cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.

[0069] Compounds of formula (IV) can also be used:

[0070] Ra-NH-CH(Y”)-(CH2)nC(O)NH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (IV)

[0071] in which • Y” represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ", -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z”; • Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; • Z" represents a cationic counter-ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; • Ra represents a C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra-C(O)OH acid that is preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; and • n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0072] Among the compounds of formula (IV), we can mention the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

[0073] Among the aforementioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, it is preferable to use (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocobetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is / are chosen from among the (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines, and even more preferably cocobetaine.

[0075] The amphoteric surfactant(s) (b) is / are present in a total quantity preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10%, most preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] Oil-in-water emulsion (c)

[0077] The cosmetic composition of the invention includes an oil-in-water emulsion (or silicone-in-water emulsion) as a third essential component.

[0078] The oil-in-water emulsion (c) has a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, the size being expressed by volume, and comprises: • a mixture of silicones comprising: i. one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trial-kylsilyl terminal groups, having a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s and ii. one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone; • a mixture of surfactants comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16; and • water.

[0079] In the oil-in-water or silicone-in-water emulsion according to the invention, a liquid phase (the dispersed phase) is advantageously dispersed in another liquid phase (the continuous phase); in the present invention, the silicone mixture, or silicone phase, is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase.

[0080] The silicone mixture comprises (i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl terminal groups, preferably of formula (V):

[0081] R'3SiO(R'2SiO)pSiR'3 (V),

[0082] in which: • R', which may be the same or different, is a hydrocarbon radical mo novalent containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, even better still a methyl radical, and • p is an integer in the range of 500 to 2000, or better yet, from 1000 to 2000.

[0083] The polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl terminal groups (i) according to the invention have a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably excluding 100,000, more preferably ranging from 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25 °C, better still from 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25 °C.

[0084] The polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl terminal groups according to the invention are preferably linear, but they may comprise, in addition to the R'2SiO2 / 2 motifs (D motifs), additional RSiO3 / 2 (T motifs) and / or SiO4 / 2 (Q motifs) motifs, in which R', which may be identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical Ci-Ci8.

[0085] Preferably, in formula (V), R', which may be identical or different, is: • an alkyl, preferably a Ci-C28 alkyl, such as the radicals: methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, tert-pentyl, hexyl and in particular n-hexyl, heptyl and in particular n-heptyl, octyl and in particular n-octyl, isooctyl, 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl; nonyl and in particular n-nonyl; decyl and in particular n-decyl; dodecyl and in particular n-dodecyl; octadecyl and in particular n-octadecyl; • an alkenyl radical such as vinyl and allyl; • a cycloalkyl radical such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl; • an aryl radical such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl; • an alkyl radical such as o-, m- and p-tolyl; xylyl and ethylphenyl radicals; • - an aralkyl radical such as benzyl and phenylethyl.

[0086] Preferably, R' is a methyl radical.

[0087] Preferably, polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl terminal groups (i) are polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) bearing trialkylsilyl terminal groups.

[0088] The silicone mixture also comprises (ii) one or more amino silicones, preferably of formula (VI):

[0089] XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X (VI),

[0090] in which: • R', which may be the same or different, is a hydrocarbon radical mo novalent containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, even better still a methyl radical; • X, which may be the same or different, represents R or a hydroxyl (OH) or alkoxy group in Ci-C6; preferably X is R, that is, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, even better still a methyl radical; • A is an amino radical of formula -R*-[NR2-R3-]XNR22, or the protonated form of this amino radical, with • R1 representing an alkylene radical in C, C6, preferably a -CH2CH 2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2- radical; • R2, which may be the same or different, being a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom; • R3 being a Ci-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a -CH2CH2- radical; • x is equal to 0 or 1; • m and n are integers so that m+n goes from 50 to 1000, or even better from 50 to 600.

[0091] Preferably, A is an amino radical of formula -R'-[NR2-R3-]XNR22, or the protonated form of this amino radical, R1 being -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 being hydrogen atoms, R3 being -CH2CH2-, and x being equal to 1.

[0092] Preferably, R, which may be the same or different, is: • an alkyl, preferably a CrC28 alkyl, such as the radicals: methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, tert-pentyl, hexyl and especially n-hexyl, heptyl and especially n-heptyl, octyl and especially n-octyl, isooctyl, 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl; nonyl and especially n-nonyl; decyl and especially n-decyl; dodecyl and especially n-dodecyl; octadecyl and especially n-octadecyl; • an alkenyl radical such as vinyl and allyl; • a cycloalkyl radical such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and me- thylcyclohexyl; • an aryl radical such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl; • an alkyl radical such as o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals; xylyl, ethylphenyl; • an aralkyl radical such as benzyl and phenylethyl.

[0093] Preferably, R is a methyl radical.

[0094] The amino silicones (ii) according to the invention have a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s, preferably from 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.s.

[0095] The amino silicones (ii) according to the invention have an amine index ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, preferably from 3.5 to 8 mg.

[0096] The molar percentage of amine function is preferably between 0.3 mol% and 8 mol%.

[0097] Examples of amino silicones (ii) include amino silicones bearing trialkylsilyl terminal groups; preferably aminoethyl-aminopropylmethylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl terminal groups, or even better, copolymers of aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane bearing trialkylsilyl / dimethylsiloxane terminal groups.

[0098] The amino radical A can be partially or totally protonated, for example by adding acids to amino silicone, so as to obtain the salified form of said amino radical.

[0099] Examples of acids that can be used include linear or branched carboxylic acids containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, or salicylic acid. Preferably, the acids can be used in a proportion of 0.1 to 2.0 moles per mole of amino radical A in the amino silicone of formula (VI).

[0100] The silicone mixture preferably comprises: i. one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trial-kylsilyl terminal groups, having a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably excluding 100,000 mPa.s, in an amount of 70% to 90% by weight, more preferably 75% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture, and ii. one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine index ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in an amount of 10% to 30% by weight, in particular 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.

[0101] The oil-in-water emulsion (c) also includes a mixture of surfactants comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants; said mixture of surfactants may optionally include one or more cationic surfactants.

[0102] Said mixture of surfactants has an HLB ranging from 10 to 16.

[0103] The non-ionic surfactants that can be used may be chosen from the alcohols, a-diols and (Ci-2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 1 to 30; or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain including 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0104] We can also mention ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing 2 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, polyglycerol fatty amides including on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; sorbitan ethoxylated fatty acid esters preferably containing 2 to 40 ethylene oxide motifs, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylated and preferably polyoxyethylated fatty acid esters containing 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0105] We can also mention non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula: RiO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:

[0106] - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an al- radical kylphenyl whose linear or branched alkyl radical includes from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; • R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms, • G represents a sugar motif including 5 to 6 carbon atoms, • t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4, • v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.

[0107] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which: • Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical, including 8 to 18 carbon atoms, • R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms, • t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, and preferably equal to 0, • G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; • the degree of polymerization, namely the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0108] The glucoside linkages between the sugar units are generally of type 1 to 6 or 1 to 4, preferably type 1 to 4. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / C16 alkyl(poly)glucosides of type 1 to 4, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides, are especially preferred.

[0109] Among the commercial products, we can mention the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names Plantaren® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Oramix CG 110 and Oramix NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70, or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.

[0110] Preferably, C8 / C16 alkyl (poly)glycoside of type 1 to 4 is used, in particular in aqueous solution at 53%, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

[0111] Mono- or polyglycerol surfactants preferably comprise an average number of glycerol groups ranging from 1 to 30, in particular from 1 to 10, or even better from 1.5 to 5. They preferably correspond to one of the following formulas:

[0112] RO[CH2CH(CH2OH)O]mH,

[0113] RO[CH2CH(OH)CH2O]mH or

[0114] RO[CH(CH2OH)CH2O]mH ;

[0115] in which: • R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical (particularly alkyl or alkenyl) including 8 to 40 carbon atoms, notably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as O and N, or an amide group, and optionally substituted, for example, by hydroxyl groups; and • m is an integer from 1 to 30, preferably from 1 to 10, better still from 1.5 to 6.

[0116] In particular, R bears one or more hydroxyl groups and may include ether and / or amide groups. Preferably, R is a mono- or polyhydroxylated C10-C20 alkyl or alkenyl radical.

[0117] One example is polyglycerol hydroxylauryl ether (3.5 mol), such as the Chimexane® NF product from Chimex.

[0118] Fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols may also be mentioned, preferably comprising one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chains comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl (OH) groups, in particular 1 to 4 hydroxyl groups.

[0119] When the chain is unsaturated, it may include one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0120] Fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols preferably correspond to formula (VII):

[0121] R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH,

[0122] in which: • R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 8 to 40 carbon atoms, and in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more, in particular 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups; and • c is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, notably from 2 to 150, or even from 4 to 50 and even better from 8 to 30.

[0123] Fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxygenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO); examples include 2 EO lauryl alcohol; 3 EO lauryl alcohol; 3 EO decyl alcohol; 5 EO decyl alcohol and 20 EO oleyl alcohol.

[0124] Non-ionic surfactants may advantageously be selected from: i. (poly)oxyalkylated fatty alcohols, in particular (poly)ethoxylated alcohols, and especially those of the formula: R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH in which: • R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 8 to 40 carbon atoms, and in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more, in particular 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups; and • c is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, notably from 2 to 150, or even from 4 to 50 and even better from 8 to 20. i. (C8-C32)alkyl phenyl (poly)oxyalkylened ethers, including in particular 1 to 200, or better still 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ii. Polyoxyalkylated esters of C8-C12 fatty acids and sorbitan, in particular polyoxyethylated esters of C8-C32 fatty acids and sorbitan, preferably containing 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide (EO) units; in particular polyoxyethylated esters of C10-C24 fatty acids and sorbitan, preferably containing 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide (EO) units; and iii. C8-C32 fatty acid polyoxyethylenated esters preferably containing from 2 to 150 ethylene oxide motifs; in particular C10-C24 fatty acid polyoxyethylenated esters, including in particular from 2 to 150 ethylene oxide (EO) motifs.

[0125] Nonionic surfactants may advantageously be selected from alkyl ethers and alkyl esters of polyalkylene glycol, in particular polyethylene glycol. Examples include: • polyethylene glycol octyl ether; polyethylene glycol lauryl ether; polyethylene glycol tridecyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearyl ether; and especially trideceth-3, trideceth-10 and steareth-6; • polyethylene glycol nonylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol dodecylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearylphenyl ether; • polyethylene glycol sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate; • polyethylene glycol stearate, and in particular PEG100 stearate.

[0126] Better still, the nonionic surfactants can be selected from steareth-6, PEG-100 stearate, trideceth-3 and trideceth-10, and mixtures thereof; in particular, a mixture comprising these four nonionic surfactants.

[0127] The surfactant mixture may optionally include one or more cationic surfactants, which may be selected from tetraalkylammonium, tetraarylammonium and tetraalkylarylammonium salts, in particular halides, and especially from cetrimonium or behentrimonium salts, in particular halides, better still chlorides.

[0128] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the surfactant mixture in a total quantity ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, in particular from 8% to 15% by weight, even better, 10% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0129] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s) in a total quantity of 5% to 15% by weight, in particular 8% to 15% by weight, even better, 10% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0130] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the cationic surfactant(s), when present, in a total quantity ranging from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0131] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the silicone mixture in a total quantity of 40% to 60% by weight, in particular 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0132] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the dialkylpolysiloxane(s) bearing trialkylsilyl terminal groups in a total amount of 35% to 45% by weight, in particular 38% to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0133] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) in a total quantity of 5% to 15% by weight, in particular 8% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0134] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises water in a total quantity of 25% to 50% by weight, in particular 30% to 45% by weight, or even better 35% to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0135] The oil-in-water emulsion may also include a preservative agent, such as phenoxyethanol, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0136] A process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises: • a step of mixing one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl terminal groups, having a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa·s, preferably excluding 100,000 mPa·s, and one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa·s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone; at a temperature of 15 °C to 40 °C, in particular at 25 °C, so as to obtain a fluid silicone mixture; then • a step of adding a mixture of surfactants comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16, to said fluid silicone mixture, so as to obtain an emulsified silicone mixture; then • a homogenization step of said emulsified silicone mixture, followed by • a step of adding water, preferably demineralized water in stages, so as to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 less than 350 nm.

[0137] The preparation process may also include an additional step of adding one or more preservatives.

[0138] The pH of the oil-in-water emulsion is generally between 4 and 6.

[0139] The oil-in-water emulsion has a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, in particular between 100 and 300 nm, better still between 150 and 250 nm, even better still between 160 and 200 nm, the size being expressed in volume.

[0140] This size corresponds to the average hydrodynamic particle diameter. The particle size D50 is expressed in volume. It can be measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, based on the "photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS)" method. Method for measuring particle size

[0141] The particle size of the emulsion is measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, based on the "photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS)" method.

[0142] The size of the D50 particles is measured when the evaluation algorithm is a "cumulant analysis".

[0143] 0.5 g of the emulsion is placed in a 250 ml beaker, 100 ml of demineralized water The ingredients are added and the mixture is prepared to obtain the test solution. The test solution is placed in the measuring cuvette (or cell) and introduced into the measuring device.

[0144] Size D50 corresponds to the particle diameter value at 50% in cumulative distribution.

[0145] For example, if D50 = 170 nm, this means that 50% of the particles have a size greater than 170 nm and that 50% of the particles have a size less than 170 nm.

[0146] It should be recalled that this distribution is done in volume. Method for measuring viscosity

[0147] Viscosities, in particular of silicone compounds, are measured at 25 °C, 1.013 x 105 Pa (1 atm).

[0148] To measure viscosities between 1,000 and 40,000 mPa.s at 25 °C, it is possible to use an Anton Paar rheometer, model MCR101, cylindrical geometry, single spacing: CC27 spindle, shear rate of 1 s for 2 minutes, at 25 °C.

[0149] To measure viscosities between 40,000 and 100,000 mPa·s at 25 °C, an Anton Paar rheometer, model MCR101, cone 25-6 (cone-plate geometry, diameter 25 mm / cone 6°); zero gap, shear rate 1 s⁻¹, can be used. for 2 minutes, at 25°C.

[0150] Three measurements are taken for each sample, and the viscosity value is recorded at 60 seconds. The products in the MCR Rheometer range operate in accordance with USP (US Pharmacopeia Convention, 912 - Methods of the Rotary Rheometer). Method for measuring the amine index

[0151] The amine index can be measured by acid-base titration using a potentiometer [Brand: Veego; model VPT-MG].

[0152] 0.6 g of the sample is placed in a 500 ml beaker and a 1:1 mixture of toluene-butanol is added, and then everything is mixed.

[0153] The solution is titrated with a 0.1 N HCl solution. The determination of the zero value (Vbianc) is also carried out with the 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture alone.

[0154] The amine index is calculated using the formula:

[0155] 56.11 x (V - VBianc) x N / W mg KOH / g of sample,

[0156] with V = volume of HCl required (in ml), VBianc = volume of HCl required for the zero value (in ml); N = normality of the HCl, i.e. 0.1 and W = mass of the sample (in g)- HLB values

[0157] The term "HLB" refers to the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant. It can be measured experimentally or calculated.

[0158] In this patent application, HLB values ​​are values ​​at approximately 25 °C.

[0159] HLB values ​​can be calculated using the following equation: HLB = (E + P) / 5, where E is the weight percentage of oxyethylene and P is the weight percentage of polyol, as described in the publication Griffin, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5, No. 4), pages 249-256.

[0160] HLB values ​​can also be determined experimentally according to the book by Puisieux and Seiller, entitled “Galenics 5: Dispersed Systems - Volume I - Surface agents and emulsions - Chapter IV - Notions of HLB and of critical HLB”, pages 153-194 - paragraph 1.1.2. Experimental determination of HLB, pages 164-180”.

[0161] Preferably, the HLB values ​​to be taken into account are those obtained by calculation, in particular in the following manner: "Calculated HLB" = 20 x (molar mass of the hydrophilic part / total molar mass).

[0162] Thus, for an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene motifs fused to the fatty alcohol and the "calculated HLB" then corresponds to the "Griffin HLB".

[0163] For an ester or an amide, the hydrophilic part is generally defined as being located beyond the carbonyl group, starting with the fatty chain(s).

[0164] The HLB values ​​of nonionic surfactants can also be calculated using Davies' formula, as described in Davies JT (1957), "A quantitative kinetic theory of emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent", Gas / Liquid and Liquid / Liquid Interface (Proceedings of the International Congress of Surface Activity): 426-438.

[0165] According to this formula, the HLB value is obtained by adding the hydrophilic / hydrophobic contribution linked to the constituent groups of the surfactant:

[0166] HLB = (number of hydrophilic groups) - n(number of groups per CH2 group) + 7.

[0167] The HLB values ​​of certain cationic surfactants are given in Table IV, in "Cationic emulsifiers in cosmetics", Godfrey, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists (1966) 17, pages 17-27.

[0168] When two surfactants A and B, with known HLB values, are mixed, the HLBMix corresponds to the HLB of the mixture and can be expressed by the following equation:

[0169] HLBMix = (WaHLBa + WbHLBb) / (Wa + WB),

[0170] in which WA is the quantity (weight) of the first surfactant A and WB the quantity of the second surfactant B, and HLBA and HLBb are the HLB values ​​of surfactant A and surfactant B.

[0171] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the oil-in-water emulsion c) in a total amount from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the oil-in-water emulsion c) in a total amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still 1% to 8% by weight, preferably 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the emulsion has a dry matter (or active matter) content of between 40% and 60% by weight, in particular 45% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0173] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the polydialkyl-siloxane(s) bearing trialkylsilyl terminal groups, having a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, in a total quantity ranging from 0.04% to 4% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 3.2% by weight, preferably from 0.8% to 2.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the amino silicone(s) having a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa·s and an index amine of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.04% to 1.6% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] Non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d)

[0176] The fourth essential component of the cosmetic composition of the invention is at least one non-ionic polysaccharide.

[0177] Examples of polysaccharides according to the invention include those selected from glucans, modified or unmodified starches (such as those resulting, for example, from cereals, such as wheat, maize or rice, legumes, such as yellow peas, or tubers, such as potatoes or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextran, celluloses and their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, gluco-mannans, arabinogalactans, agars, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, gums karaya, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof.

[0178] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) is / are chosen from starches, guar gums, celluloses and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0179] As indicated above, the polysaccharide(s) according to the invention may be modified or unmodified.

[0180] Unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the names Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Rhodia Chimie.

[0181] Modified non-ionic guar gums are in particular modified by Ci-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0182] Examples of hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C6 include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0183] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0184] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2.

[0185] These non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with Ci-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by Rhodia Chemistry or under the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by Aqualon.

[0186] In particular, among the celluloses used are hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses. Examples include products sold under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel LHF, Klucel MF, and Klucel G by Aqualon, and Cellosize Polymer PCG-10 by Amerchol.

[0187] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) are chosen from guar gums and / or their derivatives which are non-ionic, for example non-ionic guar gums modified by Ci-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups, and / or mixtures thereof; more preferably from non-ionic guar gums modified by Ci-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0188] Preferably, the content of non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even better from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0189] Preferably, the content of guar gums and / or their derivatives which are non-ionic ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even better from 0.1% to 5%; better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] Fatty substance(s)

[0191] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances as a fifth essential component.

[0192] The term "fatty substance" refers to an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5 wt%, preferably less than 1 wt%, and even more preferably less than 0.1 wt%). Its structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least six carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), and liquid petroleum jelly.

[0193] In other words, the expression "fatty substances" designates an organic compound which is insoluble in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 0.5 Pa), in particular with a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight.

[0194] Preferably, the fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.

[0195] The expression "non-silicone fatty substance" refers to a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and the expression "silicone fatty substance" refers to a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds reference to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.

[0196] The fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0197] The fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. A liquid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). A solid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0198] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In this patent application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 1.05 Pa).

[0199] More particularly, the fatty substance(s) according to the invention may be chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to Ci6, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, and liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglyceride oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0200] It is recalled that fatty alcohols, fatty acids, and fatty esters more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising from 8 to 40, and preferably from 10 to 30, carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular, by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0201] The solid fatty alcohols usable in the present invention may be saturated or unsaturated, and may comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. In particular, the solid fatty alcohols conform to the following formula:

[0202] R-OH

[0203] wherein R is a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0204] The solid fatty alcohols usable in the inventive composition are preferably chosen from among saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched monoalcohols, particularly linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 24 atoms, more particularly from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. More preferably, solid fatty alcohols are chosen from among linear and saturated monoalcohols comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0205] Solid fatty alcohols can be used alone or in combination and can be selected from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0206] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol(s) is / are selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. More particularly, the solid fatty alcohol(s) is / are selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0207] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that can be used in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from C9-C26 carboxylic acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol esters.

[0208] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched saturated monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0209] We can also mention the esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22 and the esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2-C26.

[0210] Examples of such solid esters are cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, palmitate cetyl, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0211] Preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, such as myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0212] With regard to liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to Ci6 range, these may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. Examples that may be cited include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0213] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably selected from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0214] A non-silicone oil of animal origin that may be cited is perhydrosqualene.

[0215] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably selected from among the triglycerides of liquid fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and their mixtures.

[0216] As regards fluorinated oils, they may be selected from perfluoro-methylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by 3M.

[0217] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for use in the invention are particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor Glycerol-based. Examples that can be cited include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenylic alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0218] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglyceride oils mentioned above, examples may include esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or poly-acids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or poly-alcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0219] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid is branched.

[0220] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0221] Preferably, among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof, shall be used.

[0222] Esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22 and esters of mono, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26 may also be used.

[0223] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; trioctanoate of glyceryl; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentylglycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0224] The composition may also include, as a liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon compounds bearing oxygen with multiple alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described below.

[0225] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0226] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected, in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6 to C30 and preferably in Ci2 to C22. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0227] Liquid fatty esters may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0228] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, in particular such as mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate

[0229] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular mono- or dioleates, -stearates, -behenates, -oleopalmitates, -linoleates, -linolenates and -oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0230] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0231] Preferably, one or more solid fatty substances will be used as fatty substance(s) (e), for example selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly selected from solid fatty alcohols such as those defined above, optionally in combination with one or more liquid fatty substances such as those defined above.

[0232] More preferably, at least one solid fatty substance is used with at least one liquid fatty substance as fatty substances (e) in the com- cosmetic position of the invention.

[0233] Even more preferably, the at least one fatty substance (e) is a combination of solid fatty alcohol(s) such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and liquid fatty substance(s) such as triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, for example soybean oil.

[0234] Preferably, the total content of fat(s) (e) is in the range of 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] Preferably, the total content of solid fat(s) (e) is in the range of 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] Preferably, the total content of liquid substance(s) (e) is in the range of 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] The cosmetic composition may further comprise one or more cationic polymers and / or one or more cationic surfactants.

[0238] Cationic polymer(s)

[0239] The composition according to the present invention may also include one or more cationic polymers.

[0240] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" means any non-silicone polymer (not comprising silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0241] Cationic polymers are not silicone-based (they do not include Si-O motifs).

[0242] Cationic polymers can be associative or non-associative.

[0243] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a mass average molar weight (Mw) between 500 and approximately 5x106 and preferably between 103 and approximately 3x106.

[0244] Among cationic polymers, the following may be mentioned in particular: 1. Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units corresponding to the following formulas:

[0245] formulas in which: • the R3s, which can be identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; • the A's, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; • R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent a alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; • Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; and • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0246] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers which may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), acrylic acids or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

[0247] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can mention: • copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quantified with dimethyl sulfate or dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules, • copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy, • the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, • Quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylami-noalkyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for example Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, • dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylca-prolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP, • vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP; • vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers quantified products such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP; • copolymers of acrylamide and acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, in particular compounds with INCI name acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer such as the product sold under the name Salcare® SC 60 by BASF or under the name N-DURHANCE AA 2000 by ASHLAND; • polymers, preferably crosslinked polymers, of metha-cryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. 1. Cationic polysaccharides, particularly cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, ether derivatives of cellulose including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0248] Cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR 1 492 597, and examples include polymers sold under the names Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group, for example Poly-quatemium-10.

[0249] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described, in particular, in US patent 4,131,576, and examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, or hydroxypropylcelluloses, especially those grafted with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium, for example, Polyquatemium-4. Commercial products corresponding to this definition are, more specifically, the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by National Starch.

[0250] Among cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic associative celluloses can also be used, which can be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified by groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0251] Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0252] Preferably, hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VIII) may be cited:

[0253] in which: • R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q in which Ra, Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C30 Ci alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for example a chloride or a bromide; • R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q' in which R'a, R'b and R'c, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl in C1 to C30, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl, and Q'- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for example a chloride or a bromide;

[0254] it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b and R'c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30 alkyl; • n, x and y, which can be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10,000.

[0255] Preferably, in formula (VIII), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, or R'c represents a C8 to C30 alkyl group, more preferably a C10 to C24 alkyl group, or even a linear or branched C14 alkyl group; the dodecyl radical (C12) is a particularly good example. Preferably, the other radical or radicals represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, especially a methyl alkyl group.

[0256] Preferably, in formula (VIII), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, or R'c represents an alkyl group from C8 to C30, or even better, from C1 to C24 or even from C1 to C1, linear or branched; the dodecyl radical (C12) is a particularly good example. Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched alkyl group from C1 to C4, especially a methyl group.

[0257] Better still, R can be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q' and

[0258] -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q', preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'.

[0259] Even better, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'.

[0260] Aryl radicals preferably designate phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl.

[0261] Examples include polymers with the following INCI names: • Polyquaternium-24, such as the Quatrisoft LM 200® product, sold by the Amerchol / Dow Chemical company; • PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product Crodacel QM®; • PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (Ci2 alkyl), such as the product Crodacel QL®; and • PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C[8 alkyl], such as the product Crodacel QS®, sold by the company Croda.

[0262] Also citeable are hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VIII) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3)3N+-, Cl and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(C12H25)N+-, Cl. This type of polymer is known by the INCI name Poly-quatemium-67; commercial products include Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from Amerchol / Dow Chemical.

[0263] More specifically, polymers of formula (VIII) are, for example, those with a viscosity between 2,000 and 3,000 cPs inclusive, preferably between 2,700 and 2,800 cPs. Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2,500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2,700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2,700 cPs, and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2,800 cPs. Softcat Polymer SX-1300X, with a viscosity between 1,000 and 2,000 cPs, can also be used.

[0264] Cationic galactomannan gums are described more specifically in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, and examples include guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For instance, guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (e.g., a chloride) may be used. Such products are sold, notably, under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17, Jaguar C162, or Jaguar Excel by Rhodia. These compounds have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. 1. Polymers formed of piperazinyl motifs and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. 2. Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound that is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides may be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they may be quaternized; 3. Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Examples include adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms and is preferably methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Among these derivatives, adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the names Cartaretine F, F4, or F8 by Sandoz are particularly noteworthy. 4. Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably being between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer. 5. Alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, such as homopolymers or copolymers including, as the main constituent of the chain, motifs corresponding to formula (IX) or (X):

[0265] formulas (IX) and (X) in which: • k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; • Rn denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; • Rio and Rlb, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, an amidoalkyl group in C1 to C4; or alternatively, R10 and Ru may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and • Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

[0266] One can cite more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyldially-lammonium salt (for example chloride) sold, for example, under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and its homologues of low average molar masses by weight) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and acrylamide, such as polyquatemium-7, notably sold under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR. 1. Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:

[0267] formula (XI) in which: • Rn, Ru, Ris, and Ri6, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively, Rn, Ru, R[5], and R[6], together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles comprising faculta-

[0268]

[0269]

[0270]

[0271]

[0272] tively a second non-nitrogen heteroatom, or alternatively Rn, Ru, R[5 and R[6 represent a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl radical, substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a -CO-O-Rp-D group or - CO-NH-Rp-D where Rn is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; • Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms that may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and that may contain, bonded to or inserted into the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide, or ester groups; and • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Ab Rn and R[5 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; Furthermore, if Ai denotes an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, Bi can also denote a (CH2)nCO-D-OC-(CH2)n- group in which D denotes: a. a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2-CH2-O)X-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2 -CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b. a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c. a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or alternatively the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2; or d. a ureylene group with the formula: -NH-CO-NH-. Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100,000. One example is polymers consisting of repeating motifs corresponding to the formula: (IX) formula (XII) in which Rb R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing approximately 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from approximately 2 to 20, and X is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0273] A compound of formula (XII) which is particularly preferred is that in which Ri, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA). 1. Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising motifs of formula (XIII): R™ r — N+ - (CH4r- NH - CO - (CHX - CO - NH {CHA - N+- A — X-^ ' ' ' I. RÏS (X) x R21

[0274] formula (XIII) in which: • Ri8, R19, R20 and R2[, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)POH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R[8, R[9, R20 and R2[ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, • r and s, which can be the same or different, are integers between 1 and 6, • q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34, • X denotes an anion, such as a halide, and • A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -ch2-ch2-o-ch2-ch2-.

[0275] Examples that can be cited include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® ADI, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the Miranol company. 1. Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, for example the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF. 2. Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced as Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary. 3. Polymers including in their structure: a. one or more patterns corresponding to formula (A) below: —CFU—CH— ' 1 a. Optionally, one or more patterns corresponding to formula (B) below. below: —CH—CH — ' | (8) HH — CH 11 O

[0276] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide. 1. and their mixtures.

[0277] Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) is / are chosen from those of families (1), (2) and (7) and their mixtures.

[0278] More preferably, the cationic polymer(s) is / are selected from acrylamide and acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride copolymers, cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums and alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, such as homopolymers or copolymers including, as the main chain constituent, motifs corresponding to formula (IX) or (X), and mixtures thereof.

[0279] More preferably, the cationic polymer(s) is / are chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimonium / acrylamide chloride copolymers, cationic galactomannan gums, such as guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, preferably guar gums modified by a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride), polyquatemium-7 and mixtures thereof.

[0280] Advantageously, when the cationic polymer(s) is / are present, the total content of cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0281] Cationic surfactant(s)

[0282] The cosmetic composition may further include one or more cationic surfactants.

[0283] They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally polyoxyalkylened, or their salts, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0284] Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be cited include: • those corresponding to the following general formula (XIV):

[0285] wherein the groups Ri to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Ri to R4 designating a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from the alkyl groups in Ci-C30, alkoxy in Ci-C30, polyoxy (C2-C6)alkylene, alkylamide in Ci-C30, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido-(C2-C6)alkyl, alkyl acetate in (Ci2-C22) and hydroxyalkyl in Ci-C3o; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates and (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

[0286] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (XIV), those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyle acetate)ammonium salts sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk. In particular, it is preferable to use the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds; • quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of formula (XV) below: (XV) P / CHjCHg—N(R^—CO—Rj. JX" \ / R, s JJ

[0287] wherein R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a Ci-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates, whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, R5 and R6 designate a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 designates a methyl group and R8 designates a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by Rewo;

[0288] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts in particular of formula (XVI):

[0289] wherein R9 designates an alkyl radical comprising about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R10 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (R9a)(Ri0a)(Riia)N-(CH2)3 group,

[0290] R9a, Rioa, Riia, Ru, Ri2, Rb and R[4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

[0291] X is an anion selected in particular from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0292] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, made available by Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, made available by Finetex (Quaternium 75); • quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (XVII) below: (XVII) O ” ~ t HU R, J;—Rig X fu

[0293] in which: • R15 is chosen from among the Ci-C6 alkyl groups and the hydroxyalkyl groups or dihydroxyalkyl in Ci-C6; • R[6 is chosen from: • the group • R2oqui groups are linear or branched C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated, • a hydrogen atom, • Ri8 is chosen from: • the group • R22 groups which are linear Ci-C6 hydrocarbon groups or branched, saturated or unsaturated, • a hydrogen atom,

[0294] Rn, R19 and R2[, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups;

[0295] r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

[0296] y is an integer from 1 to 10;

[0297] x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

[0298] X is a simple or complex anion, organic or mineral;

[0299] provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then Ri6 denotes R2o and that when z is 0, then R[8 denotes R22.

[0300] The alkyl groups in R15 can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

[0301] Preferably, R[5 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0302] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0303] When R[6 is an R20 hydrocarbon group, it can be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0304] When R[8 is an R22 hydrocarbon group, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0305] Advantageously, Rn, Ri9 and R2[, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0306] Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0307] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0308] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly equal to 2.

[0309] The anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more specifically methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, or an anion derived from an organic acid can also be used. such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with ammonium bearing an ester function.

[0310] The anion X is more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0311] In the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (XVII) are used more particularly, in which: • R45 designates a methyl or ethyl group, • x and y are equal to 1; • z is equal to 0 or 1; • r, s and t are equal to 2; • Ri6 is chosen from: • the group • Methyl, ethyl, or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, • a hydrogen atom; • Ri8 is chosen from: • the group • a hydrogen atom;

[0312] Rn, R19 and R2i, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from linear or branched C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, saturated or unsaturated.

[0313] Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0314] Examples that may be cited include compounds of formula (XVII) such as the salts of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived most particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

[0315] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine, or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization with an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a methyl or ethyl sulfate), a methyl methanesulfonate, a methyl para-toluenesulfonate, a chlor- glycol rohydrine or glycerol chlorohydrine.

[0316] Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® from Henkel, Stepanquat® from Stepan, Noxamium® from CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 from Rewo-Witco.

[0317] The composition according to the present invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts, with a majority by weight of diester salts.

[0318] Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180 patents, can also be used.

[0319] Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

[0320] Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0321] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that can be used, it is preferable to use salts of diphanitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium.

[0322] The expression "fatty amines" designates a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylened primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or its salts and comprising at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain, preferably Cg-Cso.

[0323] Preferably, the fatty amines to be used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0324] Fatty amines include amidoamines.

[0325] The amidoamines according to the invention can be chosen from fatty amidoamines, knowing that the fatty chain can be carried by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0326] The term “amidoamine” designates a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0327] The term "fatty amidoamine" refers to an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines to be used according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0328] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines to be used according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0329] Among the fatty amidoamines to be used according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: (XVIII) the amidoamines of formula below:

[0330] RCONHR"N(R')2 (XVIII)

[0331] in which: • R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical, substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical; • R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and even better 3 carbon atoms; and • the R's, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0332] Fatty amidoamines of formula (XVIII) are selected, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine sold by Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinolea-midopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, sojamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, visonamidopropyl dimethylamine, avoinamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0333] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are selected from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamido-propyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0334] The cationic surfactant(s) is / are preferably chosen from those of formula (XIV), those of formula (XVIII), and mixtures thereof, more preferably from salts, such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkyl-lammonium such, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyldimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; stearamidopropyl dimethylamine; brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0335] Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0336] The cationic surfactant(s) is / are preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight and even more preferably from 0.15% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0337] The composition according to the invention may include water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from Ci-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.

[0338] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a total water content of 50% to 99% by weight, more preferably 60% to 90% by weight, better 65% to 85% by weight, and better still 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0339] Optional Adjuvant(s)

[0340] The composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.

[0341] Among the additives that may be used are reducing agents, thickeners, softeners, moisturizers, UV filtering agents, peptizers, solubilizers, perfumes, proteins, vitamins, polymers other than the polymers described above, preservatives, oils, waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0342] The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01% and 40% by weight, and preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition of the invention.

[0343] It goes without saying that a person skilled in the art will take care to select this (optional) adjuvant(s) in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, negatively affected by the addition or additions envisaged.

[0344] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for the cleaning and revitalization of keratinous fibers, especially human keratinous fibers such as hair, which consists of applying to said keratinous fibers a cosmetic composition as described above, and after an optional application time, optionally removing it by rinsing, for example with water.

[0345] The exposure time of the composition on the keratinous fibers can range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.

[0346] The composition can be applied to wet or dry keratinous fibers.

[0347] Preferably, the cosmetic composition is not rinsed off with water.

[0348] Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention as described above for the cleansing and / or revitalization of keratinous fibers.

[0349] In the above description, all preferred embodiments concerning the components can be used individually or in combination.

[0350] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention. EXAMPLES

[0351] In the following examples and unless otherwise indicated, quantities are given as percentages by weight of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1

[0352] The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients in the quantities indicated in Table 1 below.

[0353] [Tables] Composition 1 (% by weight) 2 (% by weight) Sodium laureth sulfate 13.9 13.9 Cocobetaine 1.2 1.2 Cetrimonium chloride - 0.4 Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine 0.4 - Silicone emulsion* (Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 stearate (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3) 4% emulsion (0.4% amodimethicone + 1.6% dimethicone) 4% emulsion (0.4% amodimethicone + 1.6% dimethicone) Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer 0.1 0.1 Polyquatemium-7 0.35 0.5 Hydroxypropyl chloride Guar hydroxypropyltriammonium 0.5 0.5 Hydroxypropyl guar 0.5 0.5 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 2.5 - Glycine soja (soybean) oil - 3.0 Cetearyl alcohol 1.0 1.0 Preservatives qs qs Sodium chloride 3.5 3.5 Water qs 100 100

[0354] The procedure for preparing the silicone emulsion* is described in Example 1 of WO 2017 / 108824. It contains dimethicone, amodimethicone, non-ionic surfactants and water. Example 2

[0355] The following compositions, composition 3 according to the invention and comparative composition 4, were prepared from the ingredients in the quantities indicated in Table 2 below.

[0356] [Tables2] Composition 3 (according to the invention) (% by weight) 4 (comparative) (% by weight) Sodium laureth sulfate 13.90 13.90 Cocobetaine 1.20 1.20 Cetrimonium chloride 0.4 0.4 Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 stearate (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3 4% emulsion (0.4% amodimethicone + 1.6% dimethicone) 4% emulsion (0.4% amodimethicone + 1.6% dimethicone) Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer 0.1 0.1 Polyquatemium-7 0.5 0.5 Hydroxypropyl guar chloride Hydroxypropyltriammonium 0.5 0.5 Hydroxypropyl guar 0.5 - Carbomer - 0.5 Glycine soja (soybean) oil 3.0 3.0 Cetearyl alcohol 1.0 1.0 Preservatives qs qs Sodium chloride 1.2 1.2 Water qs 100 100 Viscosity (cps) 557 355

[0357] Comparative composition 4 has a fine consistency, does not have the texture of whipped cream and appears more liquid while composition 3 according to the invention is stable and resembles whipped cream.

[0358] The viscosity of each composition was measured using a rheometer with an M4 spindle at a temperature of 25 °C, for 30 s and at a speed of 200 rpm. The results are shown in Table 2 below.

[0359] Composition 3 is thicker and more viscous than composition 4.

[0360] 1.2 g of composition 3 and 4 were applied respectively to 6 strands of Indian bleached hair was measured to an average length of 20 cm and weighed 3 g. Shampoo was gently massaged into each strand, then rinsed with water. Excess water was removed from each strand after being squeezed between two fingers. Measurements were taken under humid conditions.

[0361] In addition, the hair strands were dried in an oven at 60 °C for 10 minutes for each gram of hair. The measurements were carried out under dry conditions.

[0362] The smooth texture was appreciated in both wet and dry conditions.

[0363] Smooth texture measurement protocol;

[0364] The principle of the process is to measure the frictional force of a strand of hair between two folded bio-skin surfaces (simulating the human perception of touch between two fingers). The strand is placed between two scrapers that exert constant pressure. In a downward vertical pulling motion, the frictional force is measured along the length of the strand. The strand of hair is pinched between two half-cylinders with bio-skin on each surface, which is more relevant to the consumer's gestures and the perception of smooth hair texture.

[0365] In this regard, a Dia Stron MIT 175 apparatus was used. A lock of hair was attached to the device's force sensor. The lock was then placed between two scrapers that exert constant pressure. In a downward vertical pulling motion, the friction force is measured along the length of the lock.

[0366] Smooth texture is measured in terms of force (N). The higher the force, the less important the smooth texture.

[0367] This study is conducted on 3 strands of hair for each composition and 15 data points were evaluated.

[0368] The results are shown in Table 3 below.

[0369] [Tables3] Composition 3 (according to the invention) Composition 4 (comparative) Smooth texture at Average value 1.20 1.38 in the wet state Standard deviation 0.13 0.14 Smooth texture at Average value 0.53 0.65 in the dry state Standard deviation 0.08 0.05

[0370] Significance was concluded on the basis of an independent sample T-TEST (significance level of 5%).

[0371] Composition 3 according to the invention is significantly better than the com- comparative position 4 in terms of smooth texture in wet and dry state.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: (a) one or more anionic surfactants, (b) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (c) an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 less than 350 nm, the size being expressed by volume, and comprising: - a mixture of silicones comprising: (i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl terminal groups, having a viscosity at 25 °C of 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably of 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25 °C, more preferably of 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25 °C, (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25 °C of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine index ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone; - a mixture of surfactants comprising one or more nonionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16; and - water; (d) one or more nonionic polysaccharides, and (e) one or more fatty substances.

2. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant(s) (a) is / are selected from alkyl sulfate type anionic surfactants, preferably from salts of alkyl sulfates, alkylamide sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates and mixtures thereof, with the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 28 carbon atoms; the aryl group denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; and these compounds optionally being polyoxyalkylated, and preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs.

3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (b) is / are selected from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C3-C8 alkyl)betaines, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines and mixtures thereof.

4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone mixture comprises: (i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing terminal groups trialkylsilyl, having a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, in an amount of 70% to 90% by weight, preferably 75% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture, and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in an amount of 10% to 30% by weight, in particular 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion c) has a particle size D50 of between 100 and 300 nm, preferably between 150 and 250 nm, more preferably between 160 and 200 nm, the particle size D50 being expressed in volume.

6. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion (c) is present in an amount from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the nonionic polysaccharide(s) (d) is / are selected from guar gums and / or their nonionic derivatives, and / or mixtures thereof; more preferably from nonionic guar gums modified with Ci-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) is from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty substance(s) (e) is / are a solid fatty substance(s), preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, and mixtures thereof, optionally in combination with one or more liquid fatty substances, and more preferably a combination of solid fatty alcohol(s) such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and fatty substance(s) liquid(s) such as triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, preferably soybean oil.

10. A cosmetic treatment method, in particular for cleaning and revitalizing keratinous fibers, especially human keratinous fibers such as hair, consisting of applying a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims to said keratinous fibers, and optionally, after an optional application time, removing it by rinsing, for example with water.