COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS COMPRISING AN AMPHIPHILE LIPID MATTER

Abstract

COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS COMPRISING AN AMPHIPHILE LIPID MATTER The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers, comprising (a) at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms; (b) at least one fatty amide; (c) at least one sugar ether surfactant; and (d) at least one amphiphilic surfactant. The composition according to the present invention exhibits a good pearlescent appearance while providing keratinous fibers such as hair with improved softness. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS COMPRISING A LIPID MATTER AM PHIPHILE technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for keratinous fibers comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant, in particular a hair care composition comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] It is well known that the detangling and softening effects of hair products are widely praised by customers. It is also well known that a hair conditioner is recommended for treating damaged hair that has been sensitized (i.e., damaged and / or weakened) to varying degrees by atmospheric agents or by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as dyeing, bleaching, and / or perming. When damaged, hair is often difficult to detangle and lacks softness. It is well known in the industry to use a hair conditioner in hair washing or conditioning formulations to facilitate detangling and achieve a soft and shiny effect.

[0003] For centuries, the soft, shimmering luster of pearls has held a special fascination for human beings. It is therefore not surprising that manufacturers of cosmetic preparations strive to give their products an attractive, precious, and luxurious appearance.

[0004] Although a large number of pearlescent compositions and formulations are known from the prior art, it is often difficult to obtain a pearlescent conditioner with a stable pearlescent effect over time while retaining good revitalizing properties.

[0005] For example, WO 2013 / 189037 discloses a personal care composition comprising a time-stable pearlescent revitalizing composition, comprising: a) at least one fatty alcohol containing a fatty chain with at least 22 carbon atoms, b) at least one fatty amide,

[0006] c) at least one alkyl polyglycoside, and d) at least one revitalizing agent. It also proposes a simplified process for preparing this low-temperature revitalizer.

[0007] However, there is still a demand for cosmetic compositions with an improved pearlescent appearance, and which can offer improved revitalizing effects, such as than a softening effect on keratin fibers. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0008] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition with an improved pearlescent effect and to give a keratinous fiber such as hair an improved revitalizing effect, such as a softening effect.

[0009] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising: a. at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms; b. at least one fatty amide; c. at least one sugar ether surfactant; and d. at least one amphoteric surfactant.

[0010] The (a) fatty alcohol may have a carbon chain containing 20 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0011] The quantity of the (a) fatty alcohol(s) can range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] The (b) fatty amide can be chosen from those formed by reaction of an alkanolamine and a C4-C2s fatty acid.

[0013] The (b) fatty amide can be selected from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (coconut monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof.

[0014] The quantity of the (b) fatty amide(s) can range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The (c) sugar ether surfactant can be selected from alkyl glucoside type surfactants.

[0016] Alkyl glucoside type surfactants can be represented by the following general formula:

[0017] E^O-CEUOjXGX

[0018] in which • Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30, preferably 6 to 28, and more preferably 8 to 26 carbon atoms, or an aralkyl radical containing from 7 to 30, preferably 7 to 28, and more preferably 7 to 26 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of the Ri designates a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 with 30 carbon atoms; • R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms; • G represents a reduced sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms; • t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10; and • v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.

[0019] Alkyl glucoside type surfactants may be selected from the group consisting of caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, Ci2_20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

[0020] The quantity of the (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) may range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The (d) amphoteric surfactant can be chosen from among the phospholipids.

[0022] The (d) amphoteric surfactant can be chosen from phosphoacylglycerol, more pre preferentially chosen from among the lecithins.

[0023] The quantity of the amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition can range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one betaine compound, preferably selected from trimethylglycine, camitine and proline betaine, more preferably the betaine compound comprises trimethylglycine, preferably in an amount from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 2.5% to 7%, and in particular from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for revitalizing or caring for keratin fibers, comprising:

[0026] the application to the keratinous fiber of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0027] the optional rinsing of the composition from the keratinous fibers. Best embodiment of the invention

[0028] After extensive research, the inventors made the surprising discovery that adding (d) the amphoteric surfactant to the combination of ingredients (a) to (c) can impart improved softness to the keratin fibers. Furthermore, the inventors made the surprising discovery that adding (d) the amphiphilic lipid material can make the composition slightly yellowish, thus giving it an improved pearly appearance, and have thus finalized the invention.

[0029] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms; b. at least one fatty amide; c. at least one sugar ether surfactant; and d. at least one amphoteric surfactant.

[0030] The present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with improved softness. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be used to revitalize and / or care for keratinous fibers.

[0031] The term "keratinous fibers" here refers to fibers containing keratin as their main constituent, and examples include hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and the like. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention should be used for a cosmetic process for keratinous fibers and, more preferably, for hair.

[0032] The composition according to the present invention has an improved pearlescent appearance. Thus, the composition according to the present invention has a more attractive appearance.

[0033] The present invention will be explained in more detail below. [Composition]

[0034] The composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms; b. at least one fatty amide; c. at least one sugar ether surfactant; and d. at least one amphoteric surfactant.

[0035] The composition according to the present invention will be described in detail below.

[0036] (Fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms)

[0037] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms. Only one type of fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0038] The carbon chain of (a) fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, the carbon chain of (a) fatty alcohol is a saturated carbon chain.

[0039] The carbon chain of (a) fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Preferably, the carbon chain of (a) fatty alcohol is a linear carbon chain.

[0040] In a preferred embodiment, the carbon chain of (a) fatty alcohol is a linear and saturated carbon chain.

[0041] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is chosen from a saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 20 to 26 carbon atoms, for example from 20 to 24 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from the alkyl groups in C2o-C24 and alkenyl groups in C20-C24. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0042] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is a saturated and unsaturated radical containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 20 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0043] Examples of (a) fatty alcohol include arachidonic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] In a preferred embodiment, (a) fatty alcohol is selected from fatty alcohols having a linear, saturated carbon chain containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms, such as arachidonylic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] The (a) fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, and even more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] The (a) fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and even more preferably 7% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] The (a) fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and in particular from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] In the context of this patent memorandum, any combination of the above upper limit values ​​and lower limit values ​​may be available to represent the preferred range of quantity. (Fatty amide)

[0049] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one fatty amide. Only one type of fatty amide may be used, or two or more different types of fatty amides may be used in combination.

[0050] The term "fatty amide" can here refer to a reaction product of a fatty acid or a fatty acid ester with an alkanolamine. The fatty amide can be a type of nonionic surfactant.

[0051] The term "fatty acid" here refers to a monofunctional carboxylic acid with an aliphatic chain containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms.

[0052] The fatty acid may be linear or branched. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from linear fatty acids. The fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from saturated fatty acids and unsaturated fatty acids having one or two carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0053] Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include linear saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. In particular, the fatty acid may include a mixture of two or more linear saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0054] The fatty acid of the fatty amide may be monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated, and for example may be polyoxyethylated. Preferably, the fatty acid is not monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated.

[0055] The term "alkanolamine" here refers to a compound having an alkane skeleton with at least one hydroxy group and at least one amine group.

[0056] The alkane skeleton of the alkanolamine can be linear or branched, and can have 1 to 10, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0057] The amine group of the alkanolamine can be a primary amine group or a secondary amine group. Preferably, the amine group of the alkanolamine is a primary amine group.

[0058] (b) fatty amides may include those formed by the reaction of an alkanolamine and a C4-C28 fatty acid. These surfactants may be selected from mono-alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C6-C24 fatty acids, and preferably from mono-alkanolamides and di-alkanolamides of C8-C22 or C8-C20 fatty acids, and may have a C23 hydroxyalkyl group.

[0059] The (b) fatty amide may be a fatty acid mono-alkanolamide represented by the following general formula:

[0060] RrC(O)-NH-R2

[0061] in which • Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably linear, containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms; • R2 represents a hydroxyalkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The term "hydroxyalkyl" refers to a linear or branched alkyl radical in which at least one hydrogen atom is substituted by a hydroxyl group (-OH). The hydroxyalkyl may include one or more hydroxy groups, but preferably one hydroxy group.

[0062] In a preferred embodiment, R2 represents a hydroxyalkyl radical where a hydroxy group is located at one end of the alkyl chain, namely The hydroxyalkyl group contains a primary alcohol radical. Thus, the fatty amide (b) can be a fatty acid monoalkanolamide represented by the following general formula:

[0063]

[0064] RrC(O)-NH-R3-CH2OH in which Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms; R3 represents a single bond or a linear or branched alkylene radical, preferably linear, containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0065] The (b) fatty amide may be a fatty acid di-alkanolamide represented by the following general formula:

[0066]

[0067] RrC(O)-N(R2)2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably linear, containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms; The R2s represent, whether identical or different, a hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The term "hydroxyalkyl" designates a linear or branched alkyl radical in which at least one hydrogen atom is substituted by a hydroxy group (-OH). The hydroxyalkyl may include one or more hydroxy groups, but preferably a hydroxy group.

[0068] The (b) fatty amide may be a fatty acid di-alkanolamide represented by the following general formula:

[0069]

[0070] RrC(O)-N(R3-CH2OH)2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl radical containing from 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 24, and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms; R3 represents a single bond or a linear or branched alkylene radical, of preferably linear, containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0071] Examples of (b) fatty amides include, but are not limited to:

[0072] oleic acid diethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide, erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coco isopropanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MIPA), coco fatty acid monoethanolamide (INCI name: Cocamide MEA), coco fatty acid diethanolamide, palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, lauric isopropanolamide, polyoxyethylenated coco fatty acid monoethanolamide, and mixtures thereof.

[0073] In a preferred embodiment, the (b) fatty amide is selected from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (coconut monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof.

[0074] The (b) fatty amide(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, and even more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] The (b) fatty amide(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, even more preferably 7% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] The (b) fatty amide(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] In one embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio between the (a) fatty alcohol(s) and the (b) fatty amide(s) included in the composition can be from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 5:1 to 1:5, and more preferably from 3:1 to 1:3, and even more preferably from 2:1 to 1:2. (Sugar ether surfactant)

[0078] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one sugar ether surfactant. Only one type of sugar ether surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of sugar ether surfactants may be used in combination.

[0079] (c) Sugar ether surfactant is a surfactant that has at least one sugar fraction and at least one ether bond. Sugar ether surfactant may be a type of ten- non-ionic ionic reactive agents.

[0080] It is preferable that the (c) sugar ether be chosen from alkyl glucoside type surfactants.

[0081] The alkyl glucoside type surfactant can preferably be chosen from the group consisting of alkyl glucosides and alkyl polyglucosides.

[0082] The alkyl glucoside type surfactant can be represented by the following general formula:

[0083] R10-(R20)t(G)v

[0084] in which • Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30, preferably 6 to 28, and more preferably 8 to 26 carbon atoms, or an aralkyl radical containing from 7 to 30, preferably 7 to 28, and more preferably 7 to 26 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of the Ri designates a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; • R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms; • G represents a reduced sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms; • t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10; and • v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.

[0085] The reduced sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms represented by G in the formula above can be chosen from the group consisting of glucose, fructose and galactose.

[0086] The alkyl glucoside type surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, Ci2_20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] Examples of alkylpolyglucoside type surfactants that can be cited include decylglucoside (alkyl-C9 / Cn-polyglucoside (1.4)), for example the product sold under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name PLANTAREN 2000 UP and Plantacare 2000 UP by BASF, and the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside for example the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 by SEPPIC or under the name Lutensol GD 70 by BASF; lauryl glucoside for example the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N and Plantacare 1200 by Henkel; coco-glucoside for example the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 / UP by the company Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of alcohols. arachidyl and behenyl and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic, cocoylethyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture (35 / 65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic, a Ci2_20 alkyl glucoside, for example, in the form of a mixture with Ci4 22 alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV L by Seppic, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] The (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, and even more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] The (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, even more preferably 7% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0090] The (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 1.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] In one embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio between the (a) fatty alcohol(s) and the (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) included in the composition can be from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 5:1 to 1:5, more preferably from 3:1 to 1:3, and even more preferably from 2:1 to 1:2.

[0092] In one embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio between the (b) fatty amide(s) and the (c) sugar ether surfactant(s) included in the composition can be from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 5:1 to 1:5, more preferably from 3:1 to 1:3, and even more preferably from 2:1 to 1:2. (Amphoteric surfactant)

[0093] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant. Only one type of amphoteric surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.

[0094] The amphoteric surfactant(s), which is / are preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention may be / are derivative(s) of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, derivatives in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate.

[0095] The amphoteric surfactant may preferably be chosen from the group consisting of betaines and amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives.

[0096] The amphoteric surfactant of the betaine type may be selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular, (C8-C24)alkylbetaines, (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, and (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkylsulfobetaines. In one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactants of the betaine type are selected from (C8-C24)alkylbetaines, (C8-C24)alkylamido(Ci-C8)alkylsulfobetaines, sulfobetaines, and phosphobetaines.

[0097] The amphoteric surfactant used may preferably be chosen from among the phospholipids. These phospholipids are preferably chosen from among phosphoacylglycerol, more preferably from among the lecithins.

[0098] The lecithin according to the present invention can be derived from soybeans, sunflower seeds, eggs, and mixtures thereof. In one particular embodiment, the lecithin is derived from soybeans, such as that sold under the name EMULMETIK 100 J by CARGILL.

[0099] The quantity of the (d) amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] Furthermore, the quantity of the (d) amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and, more preferably, 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] The quantity of the amphoteric surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Other optional ingredients)

[0102] - Water

[0103] The composition according to the present invention may include water.

[0104] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes water.

[0105] The quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention can be 30% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more and, more preferably, 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] The quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 75% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] The quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% to 85% by weight and more preferably from 50% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] - Oil

[0109] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be identical or different.

[0110] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0111] The optional oil ingredient here is chosen from oils other than (a) fatty alcohol above.

[0112] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0113] The oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils, fatty alcohols other than (a) fatty alcohol, and fatty acids.

[0114] Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0116] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0117] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0118] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0119] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, examples include ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, stearate isocetyl, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0120] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols, may also be used.

[0121] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylethylethylyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0122] As ester oils, sugar esters and fatty acid diesters of C6-C3O and, preferably, of C2-C22-H may be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0123] Examples of suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0124] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of fatty acids in the range of C6-C30, and preferably C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0125] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0126] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as tetraethyl pentaerythrityl hexanoate.

[0127] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0128] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name GlucateDO by the Amerchol company, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0129] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0131] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from: • Lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0132] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0133] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

[0134] The fatty alcohol as an optional oily ingredient is selected from fatty alcohols other than (a) fatty alcohols having a carbon chain containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms. Thus, the fatty alcohol as an optional oily ingredient can be selected from fatty alcohols having a carbon chain containing 4 to 19 atoms of carbon and / or fatty alcohols having a carbon chain containing 27 or more carbon atoms.

[0135] The fatty acids that may be used in the composition of this disclosure may be saturated or unsaturated and may comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. By way of non-limiting examples, they may be selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

[0136] It may be preferable that the oil be chosen from synthetic ester oils, fatty alcohols having a carbon chain containing 4 to 17 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] - Solid fatty compound

[0139] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one solid fatty compound. A single type of solid fatty compound or a combination of different types of solid fatty compounds may be used.

[0140] Here a "solid fatty compound" means a fatty compound or fatty substance which is in the form of a solid at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0141] The solid fatty compound may be selected from a group consisting of solid alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol, non-silicone wax, provided that they are solid at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure.

[0142] The quantity of the solid fatty compound(s) in the above composition may be from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] -Hydrophilic thickener

[0144] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic thickener. A single type of hydrophilic thickener or a combination of different types of hydrophilic thickeners may be used.

[0145] The term "hydrophilic" here refers to materials soluble in water at a concentration of 1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0146] The hydrophilic thickener(s) may be one or more thickener(s) natural or synthetic hydrophilic thickener(s). The hydrophilic thickener(s) may preferably be chosen from among thick polymers. thickening polymers bearing sugar patterns, such as non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar patterns.

[0147] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar motif" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms.

[0148] The sugar motifs may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0149] The sugar motifs that can be included in the hydrophilic thickening polymers of the present invention are preferably derived from one or more of the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0150] It is preferable to choose the thickener from among the polysaccharides.

[0151] Thickening polymers containing sugar motifs that may be mentioned include native gums such as: a. Tree or shrub exudates, including: • gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); • Ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); • karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); • Tragacanth gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); a. Gums derived from algae, including: • agar-agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); • alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); • carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); a. gums derived from seeds or tubers, including: • guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); • locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); • fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); • tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); • konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); a. microbial gums, including: • xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); • gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); • scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); a. Plant extracts, including: • cellulose (glucose polymer); • starch (glucose polymer) and • Inulin.

[0152] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. Temperature can be cited as a physical treatment.

[0153] Chemical treatments that can be cited include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers that may be nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric.

[0154] Preferably, the thickening polymers bearing sugar motifs are not chemically or physically treated.

[0155] The non-ionic guar gums that can be used according to the invention can be modified by (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C6.

[0156] Among the (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C6, we can mention, by way of example, the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0157] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0158] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

[0159] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.

[0160] Among the starches that can be used, one can cite, for example, macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising basic units, which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their arrangement allow one to distinguish amylose (a linear polymer) from amylopectin (a branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches.

[0161] The botanical origin of the starch molecules that can be used in the present invention can be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, by for example, among corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0162] Starches can be modified chemically or physically, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

[0163] According to the invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of the carboxylic, phosphate, or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amine type.

[0164] Starches may optionally be hydroxyalkylated at Ci-C6 or alkylated at Ci-C6 (such as acetylated). Starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

[0165] The non-associative thickening polymers of the invention may be cellulose-based polymers not comprising a Ci0-C30 fatty chain in their structure.

[0166] According to the invention, the expression "cellulose-based polymer" refers to any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0167] Thus, the cellulose polymers that can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

[0168] Among these cellulose-based polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers.

[0169] Cellulose esters include mineral cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetobutyrates, acetopropionates and acetotrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic / mineral cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetobutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetopropionate sulfates. Examples of cellulose ester ethers include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0170] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers without a Cl0-C30 fatty chain, i.e., which are "non-associative", we can mention (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses ethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR supplied by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl-(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical); hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0171] Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fat chain, (poly)carboxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts may be mentioned. By way of example, carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and their sodium salts may be mentioned.

[0172] Among cationic cellulose ethers without a fat chain, cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer may be mentioned, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl celluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Commercial products corresponding to this definition are, in particular, the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the National Starch company.

[0173] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, can, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.

[0174] The quantity of hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] -Compound betdine

[0176] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one betaine compound. Only one specific type of betaine compound may be used, or two or more different types of betaine compounds may be used in combination.

[0177] The term "betaine compound" herein denotes an amphoteric compound having a positively charged cationic fraction and a negatively charged anionic fraction, wherein no hydrogen atom is bonded to a positively charged atom in the positively charged cationic fraction, and the positively charged cationic fraction is not adjacent to the negatively charged anionic fraction.

[0178] For the purposes of the present invention, the betaine compound here is not a surfactant, which comprises at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part, such as hydrocarbon groups having 8 or more carbon atoms. Thus, the betaine compound here is different from (d) amphoteric surfactant.

[0179] The positively charged cationic fraction in the betaine compound includes, but is not limited to, a quaternary ammonium cation, a phosphonium cation, and a sulfonium cation. Preferably, the betaine includes a quaternary ammonium cation as the positively charged cationic fraction.

[0180] The negatively charged anionic fraction in the betaine compound includes, but is not limited to, a carboxylate anion.

[0181] The molecular weight of the betaine compound is not particularly limited, but is generally 1000 or less, preferably 500 or less, and more preferably 300 or less. Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means number-average molecular mass.

[0182] The betaine compound is preferably selected from trimethylglycine, camitine and proline betaine or stachydrine, and more preferably the betaine compound comprises trimethylglycine.

[0183] The quantity of betaine compound(s) in the composition may range from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2.5% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0184] - Cationic surfactant

[0185] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cationic surfactant. If two or more cationic surfactants are used, they may be identical or different.

[0186] The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts optionally polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0187] Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that can be cited include, but are not limited to:

[0188] those of general formula (B3) below:

[0189] in which • Ri, R2, R2, and R4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals including 1 to 30 atoms of carbon and optionally including heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. Aliphatic radicals may be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene radicals in C2-C6 alkylamide, (C2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C2-C22)alkylacetate, and hydroxyalkyl; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and X is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C6)alkyl sulfates, and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates;

[0190] quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (B4) below:

[0191] in which: • R5 is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, derivatives of fatty acids from tallow or coconut; • R6 is chosen from hydrogen, Ci-C4> alkyl radicals and alkenyl and alkyl radicals including 8 to 30 carbon atoms; • R7 is chosen from among the Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; • R8 is chosen from among hydrogen and alkyl radicals in CrC4; and • X is chosen from among halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R5 and R6 are, for example, a mixture of radicals selected from alkenyl and alkyl radicals including 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as tallow fatty acid derivatives, R7 is methyl, and R8 is hydrogen. Examples of these products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quatemium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat" W75, W90, W / 75PG, and W75HPG by the Witco company;

[0192] quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts of formula (B5): r „ , (B5) ; Rw R<2 | N —(CHs)s ----- N — [j

[0193] in which: • R9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals including 16 to 30 carbon atoms; • Rio is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals including 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH2)3 (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N+X-_ group; • Ru, R12, Rb, Ru, Ri6a, Ri7a, and Ri8a, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals including 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and • X is chosen from among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates and methyl sulfates.

[0194] An example of such a quaternary di-ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P from FINETEX (Quatemium-89) or FINQUAT CT (Quatemium-75);

[0195] and

[0196] quaternary ammonium salts including at least one ester function, such as those of formula (B6) below:

[0197] Q (CsH2sO)z—R25 (B6) II R24---C---(OC,H,2(OH)„),---N — (GHefOHJd-OJx—R23 x~ R22

[0198] in which: • R22 is chosen from among the Ci-C6 alkyl radicals and the hydroxyalkyl radicals and dihydroxyalkyl in Ci-C6; • R23 is chosen from:

[0199] the radical below:

[0200] R27 radicals based on saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C1-C22 hydrocarbons, and hydrogen, • R25 is chosen from:

[0201] the radical below: f '

[0202] R29 radicals based on saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched Ci-C6 hydrocarbons, and hydrogen, • R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from among the saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched C7 to C2i hydrocarbon-based groups; • r, s and t, which can be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6; • each of rl and tl, which can be identical or different, is equal to 0 or 1, and r2+rl=2r and t l+2t=2t; • y is chosen from an integer ranging from 1 to 10; • x and z, which can be the same or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10; • X is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions, provided that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, that when x equals 0, R23 designates R27, and that when z equals 0, R25 designates R29. R22 can be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R22 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R22 is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example, methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R27, it can be long and include 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and include 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R29, it can include, for example, 1 to 3 carbon atoms.By way of non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Cn-C2i hydrocarbon radicals, for example, from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Cn-C2[ alkyl and alkenyl radicals. In another embodiment, x and z, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s, and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example, equal to 2. The anion X may be selected, for example, from halides, such as chloride, bromide, and iodide; and CrC4 alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate.However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any other ammonium-compatible anion including an ester function, are other non-limiting examples of anions that can be used according to the present invention. In one embodiment, Fanion X is selected from chloride and methyl sulfate.

[0203] In another embodiment, ammonium salts of formula (B6) may be used, wherein: • R22 is chosen from among the methyl and ethyl radicals, • x and y are equal to 1; • z is equal to 0 or 1; • r, s and t are equal to 2; • R23 is chosen from:

[0204] the radical below:

[0205] methyl, ethyl and C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and hydrogen; • R25 is chosen from:

[0206] the radical below: O '

[0207] and hydrogen; • R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from among the linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example among linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

[0208] In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

[0209] Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) include salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diiacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diiacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals may include from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and may be derived, for example, from a vegetable oil, such as palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.

[0210] These products can be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or optionally oxyalkylated alkyldiisopropanolamine with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification can be followed by quaternization with an alkylating agent selected from among the alkyl halides, for example, methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example, dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

[0211] The quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above that can be used in the composition according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the Alkyl radical includes approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethyl-lammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyle acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl70" by the Van Dyk company.

[0212] According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant that can be used in the composition according to the present invention is selected from behenyltrimethyl-lammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-80, quaternium-83, quatemium-87, quatemium-22, behenyllamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethyl-lammonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

[0213] The quantity of the cationic surfactant(s) may be from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0214] - Silicone

[0215] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one silicone. Only one type of silicone may be used, but two or more different types of silicone may be used in combination.

[0216] The silicone may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional fraction selected from the poly(oxyalkylene) fractions, the amine or amino fractions, the alkoxy fractions, the hydroxylated fractions, the acyloxyalkyl fractions, the carboxylic acid fractions, the hydroxyacylamino fractions, the acrylic fractions, the polyamine fractions and the oxazoline fractions, and silicone-based celluloses.

[0217] Suitable silicones for the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched silicones, optionally modified by organic fractions, having a viscosity ranging from 5x106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25 °C, for example, from 1x105 to 1 m2 / s.

[0218] The silicones that can be used for the present invention may be soluble or insoluble in the composition and may be, for example, polyorganosiloxanes that are not soluble in the composition. They may be in a form selected from fluids, waxes, resins and gums.

[0219] Organopolysiloxanes are defined, for example, by Walter Noll in "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0220] When volatile, silicones can be chosen from those having a boiling point ranging from 60 °C to 260 °C, for example: i. Cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes comprising 3 to 7, for example, 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Non-limiting examples of such siloxanes include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, marketed, for example, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE 70045 V2 by RHODIA; decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, marketed under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE 7158 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE 70045 V5 by RHODIA; and mixtures thereof. Cyclomethicones may also be used, for example, those marketed under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345, and DC 246 by DOW CORNING. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethyl siloxane / methylalkyl siloxane type may also be used, such as VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula

[0221] in which:

[0222] Combinations of cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes with silicon-derived organic compounds may also be used, such as a mixture of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilyl pentaerythritol (50 / 50), and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane; and i. Linear volatile polydialkyl siloxanes comprising 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity equal to or less than 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. A non-limiting example of such a compound is decamethyl tetrasiloxane, marketed, for example, under the trade name "SH-200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32—TODD & BYERS, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics."

[0223] In at least one embodiment, the silicones may be selected from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, waxes, gums, silicone resins and polyorgano-siloxanes modified with the organofunctional fractions above.

[0224] According to one embodiment, the silicones may be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups known by the trade name dimethicones. The viscosity of these silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0225] Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to these polydial-kylsiloxanes include: • SILBIONE fluids from the 47 and 70 047 ranges and MIRASIL fluids marketed by RHODIA, for example fluid 70 047 V 500 000; • the MIRASIL range of fluids marketed by RHODIA; • fluids from the 200 series marketed by DOW CORNING such as DC200, with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; • VISCASIL fluids from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain fluids from the SF range (e.g., SF 96 and SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC; and • the fluid marketed under the reference DC 1664 by DOW CORNING.

[0226] Polydimethyl siloxanes having dimethyl silanol terminal groups may also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name dhne-thiconol (CTFA), such as the fluids in the 48 series marketed by RHODIA.

[0227] Products marketed under the trade names "AB IL Wax9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT belonging to this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes, may also be used.

[0228] Polydimethylsiloxane waxes can also be used.

[0229] Suitable silicone gums for the present invention include, but are not limited to, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes having high number-average molecular weights ranging from 200,000 to 1,000,000, alone or in mixtures in a solvent. This solvent may be selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane fluids (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane fluids (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof. The silicone gums may also be selected, for example, from amodimethicones (aminosilicones), such as the products marketed under the references DC 929 Emulsion and DC 939 Emulsion by Dow Corning.

[0230] According to at least one embodiment, combinations of silicones may also be used, such as: • mixtures of a chain-end hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethicone (CTFA), and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the Q2 1401 product marketed by DOW CORNING; • mixtures of polydimethylsiloxane gum and cyclic silicone, such as that the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having an average molecular weight by number of 500,000, solubilized in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid, a product corresponding to a decamethylcyclopentasilane; • Mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, for example, mixtures of a PDMS rubber and a PDMS fluid, such as the SF 1236 product marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC. The SF 1236 product is a mixture of SE 30 rubber, defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m² / s, and SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 x 10⁶ m² / s. Such a product may comprise 15% of SE 30 rubber and 85% of SF 96 fluid.

[0231] Suitable organopolysiloxane resins for the present invention include, but are not limited to, cross-linked siloxane systems comprising at least one of the following motifs:

[0232] R2SiO2 / 2, R3SiO2 / 2, RSiO3 / 2, and SiO4 / 2, wherein R is an alkyl group comprising of 1 to 16 carbon atoms. According to at least one embodiment, R is a lower CrC4 alkyl group, such as a methyl group.

[0233] These resins include, for example, the product marketed under the trade name "DOW CORNING 593" and those marketed under the trade names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" by GENERAL ELECTRIC, which are dimethyl / trimethylsiloxane structured silicones.

[0234] Trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins can also be used, for example, those marketed under the trade names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by SHIN-ETSU.

[0235] Polyalkylaryl siloxanes can be selected from polydimethyl / methylphenyl siloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenyl siloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1x105 to 5x102 m2 / s at 25 °C.

[0236] Non-limiting examples of these polyalkylaryl siloxanes include products marketed under the following trade names: • RHODIA's SILBIONE fluids from the 70 641 range; RHODIA's RHODORSIL fluids from the 70 633 and 763 ranges; • the phenyl trimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING; • silicones from the BAYER PK range, for example the PK20 product; • silicones from the PN and PH ranges from BAYER, for example the products PN1000 and PH1000; and • certain fluids from the SF range of GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0237] Organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those defined above and comprising at least one organofunctional fraction linked directly or by means of a hydrocarbon group within their structure.

[0238] Organomodified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising: • polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy fractions optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl fractions, such as the products called di-methicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade name DC Q2-5220 and the fluids SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, and L 711 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, and the (Ci2)alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200; • Optionally substituted amine fractions, for example, the products marketed under the trade names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE and the products marketed under the trade names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 and 939 by DOW CORNING. Substituted amine fractions may be selected, for example, from Ci-C4 alkyl amino fractions. Aminosilicones may have additional CrC4 alkoxy functional groups; • alkoxylated fractions, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt; • hydroxylated fractions, such as polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxyalkyl functions described, for example, in French patent application no. FR-A-85 163 34; • acyloxyalkyl fractions, for example the polyorganosiloxanes described in US patent no. 4,957,732; • anionic fractions of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European patent no. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and anionic fractions of alkyl carboxylic acid, such as those present in product X-22-3701E marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names "ABILS201" and "ABILS255"; • Hydroxyacylamino fractions, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in European patent application no. 0 342 834. A non-limiting example of a corresponding commercial product is the commercially available product Q2-8413 by DOW CORNING; • acrylic fractions, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M; • polyamine fractions, and • oxazoline fractions

[0239] The silicones that can be used for the present invention may comprise one or two oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-β-dimethyl siloxane-β-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). Products marketed by KAO under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96, and OS-88 may also be used.

[0240] Suitable silicone-based celluloses that can be used for the present invention include the products marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the references X-22-8401 and X-22-8404.

[0241] It is preferable that the silicone be chosen from the group consisting of dimethicones, amodimethicones (aminosilicones), and mixtures thereof.

[0242] The quantity of silicone(s) in the composition may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0243] - pH correcting agent

[0244] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be corrected to the desired value by using at least one pH correcting agent, such as an acidifying agent or a basifying agent, for example, which are commonly used in cosmetic products.

[0245] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be from 3 to 8, preferably from 3.5 to 7.0 and, more preferably, from 4.0 to 6.0.

[0246] Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0247] The pH correcting agent(s) may be used in an amount from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0248] -Optional ingredient

[0249] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients generally used in cosmetic products, in particular, surfactants / emulsifiers other than (b) fatty amide, (c) sugar ether surfactant, and (d) amphoteric surfactant; lipophilic thickeners; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents for cosmetic use. ticically acceptable; polyols such as glycerin, pentylene glycol; cationic, anionic or amphoteric polymers; natural extracts derived from animals or plants; waxes; preservatives; antioxidants; salts; and the like, within a range that does not affect the effects of the present invention.

[0250] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0251] The composition according to the present invention can be intended for use as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended for application to keratinous fibers.

[0252] The composition according to the present invention can preferably be used as a rinse-off cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers such as hair. The term "rinse-off" here means that the composition according to the present invention is removed from the keratinous fibers by rinsing after it has been applied to them. Rinsing can be carried out with water, for example.

[0253] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition for hair, preferably a cosmetic hair care composition.

[0254] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients above according to any of the processes which are well known to a person skilled in the art.

[0255] If necessary, the essential or optional ingredients listed above may be heated. Thus, heating may be carried out during the mixing of the essential and optional ingredients listed above.

[0256] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and homogenizer. [Shape]

[0257] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic, alcoholic-aqueous, or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O, or multiple type (if the composition according to the present invention includes at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of cream type (O / W) or (W / O); an aqueous gel; or any other cosmetic form, and preferably an emulsion.

[0258] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any pharmaceutical form. For example, the compositions used for the present invention may be in the form of any hair treatment in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel, or the like.

[0259] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion.

[0260] The composition according to the present invention can be used for the treatment, preferably the revitalization, and more preferably the care of keratinous fibers such as hair. [Cosmetic process and use]

[0261] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process or use for revitalizing or caring for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising:

[0262] the application to the keratinous fiber of a composition comprising: a. at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms; b. at least one fatty amide; c. at least one sugar ether surfactant; and d. at least one amphoteric surfactant; and

[0263] the optional rinsing of the keratinous fiber composition.

[0264] The application of the composition can be carried out by any means, such as a brush, a comb, and the hands.

[0265] The cosmetic process or use according to the present invention can be carried out by heating keratin fibers, preferably hair. Thus, the cosmetic process according to the present invention may further include a step of heating keratin fibers, preferably hair, after the step of applying the composition to the keratin fibers and before the optional rinsing step.

[0266] The heating temperature is not limited, and it may be, for example, above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C. The heating temperature may be below 250 °C.

[0267] The heating time can depend on the temperature of the heating device but also on the strength of the mechanical tension. It can be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes, and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0268] Heating can be achieved with a conventional means, such as the application of a hair dryer.

[0269] The optional step of rinsing the keratin fiber composition can be done with water.

[0270] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition comprising: a. at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms; b. at least one fatty amide; c. at least one sugar ether surfactant; and d. at least one amphoteric surfactant,

[0271] as a hair care or revitalizing composition.

[0272] In consideration of the effect of imparting an improved softness appearance to the hair of the composition according to the present invention, the cosmetic process and use according to the present invention can offer the keratin fibers a good revitalizing effect.

[0273] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, with respect to the total weight of the composition: a. from 0.5% to 20% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol chosen from fatty alcohols having a linear and saturated carbon chain containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms, such as arachidonyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof; b. 0.5% to 20% by weight of at least one fatty amide chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (coconut monoethanolamide), and their mixtures; c. 0.5% to 20% of at least one sugar ether surfactant selected from alkyl glucoside surfactants; and d. 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from among the phospholipids.

[0274] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in relation to the total weight of the composition: a. 3% to 7% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol chosen from fatty alcohols having a linear and saturated carbon chain containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms, such as arachidonyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof; b. 3% to 7% by weight of at least one fatty amide chosen from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (coconut monoethanolamide), and their mixtures; c. 2% to 7% of at least one alkyl glucoside surfactant selected from the group consisting of caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, Ci2-20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof; and d. 0.5% to 3% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from the phosphoacylglycerol, more preferentially chosen from among the lecithins. EXAMPLES

[0275] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Preparations]

[0276] Each of the compositions in the form of an O / W emulsion according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. When melting behenyl alcohol, thickeners, and similar substances, it was heated to 70 °C until the ingredient was completely melted. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on the "% by weight" of the ingredients relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated (MA: Active Material). [Evaluation]

[0277] 2.7 g of a strand of bleached Chinese hair with a length of 27 cm were Each hair strand was prepared. It was washed once with a clarifying shampoo. After shampooing, the strand was rinsed with water and towel-dried. One gram of each of the compositions from Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was applied to the hair strand, which was then left to stand for 5 minutes at room temperature. The hair was then rinsed with water and blow-dried to obtain the treated hair. (Softening efficacy)

[0278] The hair softening effectiveness was evaluated by several panelists with a score of 1 to 4 according to the following criteria and averaged.

[0279] 1: the hair was not soft

[0280] 2: the hair was slightly soft

[0281] 3: the hair was moderately soft

[0282] 4: the hair was very soft (Intensity of pearlescence)

[0283] The evaluation of the pearly effect was carried out by visually observing the composition with the following criteria and averaging.

[0284] 1: the composition was not pearled

[0285] 2: the composition was slightly pearly

[0286] 3: the composition was moderately pearled

[0287] 4: the composition was very pearly

[0288] The results are shown in Table 1 below.

[0289] [Table 1]

[0290] [Tables 1] Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Hydrophilic thickener 1.4 1.4 1.4 Cetearyl alcohol 5.5 5.5 5.5 Solid esters 3.5 3.5 3.5 Ester oil 2 2 2 Amodimethicone (and) trideceth-6 (and) cetrimonium chloride ** 1 1 1 Cationic surfactant 3.4 3.4 3.4 Lecithin 1 - - Behenyl alcohol 5 5 5 Cocamide MEA 5 5 5 Decyl Glucoside*2 5 5 5 Caramel color - - 0.001 Trimethyl glycine 3 3 3 Nonionic surfactant 1 1 1 Preservative, fragrance qs qs qs Citric acid qs pH qs pH qs pH Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 pH evaluation 4.2 4.2 4.2 Softening efficiency 4 2 2 Perlescence intensity 4 3 4

[0291] *1: Sold by DOW under the trade name XIAMETER MEM-8299 EMULSION (containing 56% to 61% active ingredient)

[0292] *2: sold by BASF under the trade name PLANTAREN 2000 UP (containing (approximately 53% active ingredient)

[0293] As can be seen in the tables, the compositions according to Example 1, which include the specific combination of ingredients (a) to (d), exhibited improved softening efficacy on the keratinous fibers of the hair. In addition, the composition exhibits an improved pearlescent effect.

[0294] On the other hand, compositions according to Comparative Example 1, which do not include the (d) Amphoteric surfactant, could not demonstrate good softening efficacy on keratinous fibers. The beading effect of Comparative Composition 1 is moderate. Furthermore, the composition according to Comparative Example 2, which includes caramel coloring instead of the amphoteric surfactant, was able to produce a good beading effect, but the softening effect was inferior.

[0295] Consequently, it can be said that the composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition for treating keratinous substances, since it can provide an attractive appearance thanks to the enhanced pearlescent effect while offering the keratinous fibers the enhanced cosmetic effect

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers, comprising (a) at least one fatty alcohol having a carbon chain containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms; (b) at least one fatty amide; (c) at least one sugar ether surfactant; and (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) fatty alcohol has a carbon chain containing 20 to 24 carbon atoms.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (b) fatty amide is selected from those formed by reaction of an alkanolamine and a C4-C28 fatty acid.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (b) fatty amide is selected from Cocamide MIPA, Cocamide MEA (cocoa monoethanolamide), and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein (c) sugar ether surfactant is selected from alkyl glucoside type surfactants.

6. Composition according to claim 5, wherein the alkyl glucoside type surfactant is represented by the following general formula: RO-^OXtGX in which - Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30, preferably 6 to 28, and more preferably 8 to 26 carbon atoms, or an aralkyl radical containing from 7 to 30, preferably 7 to 28, and more preferably 7 to 26 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of the Ri designates a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; - R2 represents an alkylene radical containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; - G represents a reduced sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms; - t designates a value from 0 to 10; and - v designates a value from 1 to 15.

7. Composition according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the alkyl glucoside type surfactant is selected from the group consisting of caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside,

8.

9.

10. arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside, Ci2_20 alkyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (d) amphoteric surfactant is selected from the phospholipids. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (d) amphoteric surfactant is selected from phosphoa-cylglycerol, more preferably selected from lecithins. A cosmetic process for revitalizing or caring for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: applying to the keratinous fiber the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9; and optional rinsing of the keratin fiber composition.