COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SPECIFIC CATIONIC SURFACTANT, AN AMPHOTERIC POLYMER AND AN OXIDIZING AGENT AND / OR AN OXIDATION TINT, AND A HAIR TREATMENT METHOD

FR3159744B3Active Publication Date: 2026-03-13LOREAL SA
View PDF 0 Cites 0 Cited by

Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-02-29
Publication Date
2026-03-13

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair dyeing and lightening treatments using oxidation dye precursors can damage hair and compromise its cosmetic properties such as softness, smooth texture, and ease of styling.

Method used

A composition comprising a cationic surfactant of formula (I), an amphoteric polymer, and an oxidizing agent or oxidation dye, which improves hair softness while providing effective dyeing and lightening properties without damaging the hair.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves powerful, chromatic, and non-selective colorings on hair that resist washing and other attacks, maintaining good cosmetic properties like softness and smooth texture.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

Composition comprising a specific cationic surfactant, an amphoteric polymer, and an oxidizing agent and / or an oxidation dye, and method for treating hair. The object of the invention is a composition comprising: a) one or more specific cationic surfactants, b) one or more amphoteric polymers, and c) one or more chemical oxidizing agents and / or one or more oxidation dyes. Figure for the abstract: none
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SPECIFIC CATIONIC SURFACTANT, AN AMPHOTERIC POLYMER AND AN OXIDIZING AGENT AND / OR AN OXIDATION DYE, AND METHOD FOR TREATING HAIR

[0001] The invention relates to a composition for the treatment of human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising a specific cationic surfactant, an amphoteric polymer and an oxidizing agent and / or an oxidation dye, and a method for treating hair using the composition.

[0002] This is a known practice for dyeing and / or lightening keratinous fibers, and in particular human hair, with oxidizing compositions or dyeing compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, which are generally known as "oxidation bases", such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases.

[0003] Oxidation dye precursors are compounds that are initially colorless or only slightly colored, which develop their coloring power on the hair in the presence of oxidizing agents, resulting in the formation of colored compounds. The formation of these colored compounds results either from oxidative condensation of the "oxidation bases" with themselves, or from oxidative condensation of the "oxidation bases" with color-modifying compounds, or "couplers," which are generally present in the coloring compositions used in oxidation dyeing and are represented more particularly by meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds.

[0004] The variety of molecules used, consisting on the one hand of “oxidation bases” and on the other hand of “couplers”, makes it possible to obtain a very rich palette of colors.

[0005] But these treatments can damage the hair and its cosmetic properties. It is therefore necessary to provide consumers with hair dyeing and / or lightening products that provide good lightening and / or dyeing performance such as intensity, chromaticity, selectivity with a high level of cosmetic properties of said fibers, such as softness, smooth texture, ease of styling and detangling. These cosmetic properties can also be long-lasting.

[0006] The aim of the present invention is to provide new compositions which make it possible to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair, in particular the softness, while achieving good dyeing or lightening properties.

[0007] This objective is achieved with the present invention, which relates to a composition, in in particular for the treatment of keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising a) one or more cationic surfactants of formula (I): (I)

[0008] RI and R2, identical or different, are a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon fraction comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms and X- is a cosmetically acceptable counterion; and b) one or more amphoteric polymers and c) one or more chemical oxidizing agents and / or one or more oxidation dyes.

[0009] The present invention also relates to a method for treating keratinous fibers, such as dyeing and / or lightening keratinous fibers, preferably human keratinous fibers such as hair, using this composition. In particular, the present invention also relates to a particular method for dyeing keratinous fibers. The present invention also relates to a particular method for lightening keratinous fibers.

[0010] The composition of the invention is especially intended for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, and makes it possible to obtain good cosmetic properties, in particular to improve softness.

[0011] Furthermore, when the composition according to the invention is used to dye keratinous fibers, good dyeing properties are obtained, in particular powerful, chromatic and non-selective colorings which show good resistance to the various attacks to which the hair can be subjected, such as washing with shampoo, light and sweat.

[0012] The composition according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain a good lightening effect on keratinous fibers without damaging them and without altering their cosmetic properties, in particular when they are used for bleaching.

[0013] In the text below, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of the indicated ranges are included in the invention.

[0014] The term “at least one” means “one or more”.

[0015] The term “polymer” refers to any compound derived from polymerization by poly condensation or radical polymerization of monomers, at least one of which is other than an alkylene oxide, and a monofunctional compound of formula RX, R denoting a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally hydroxylated, and X denoting a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxylated or ester group. In particular, all compounds resulting solely from the simple condensation of an alkylene oxide with a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, a fatty amide or a fatty amine are excluded. Cationic surfactant

[0016] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (I): CH, O I ? H <> ~ CH-—CH—O—C—R1 rt-U y V HX \ C —CH —O —C—R2 (I)

[0017] in which • RI is a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon fraction comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms; • R2 is a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon moiety comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms and • X- is a cosmetically acceptable counterion.

[0018] By unsaturated hydrocarbon fraction is meant that the hydrocarbon compound comprises at least one carbon-carbon double bond (C=C) and / or at least one carbon-carbon triple bond. It can of course include several carbon-carbon double and / or triple bonds.

[0019] By saturated hydrocarbon fraction is meant that the hydrocarbon radical does not comprise a carbon-carbon double bond (C=C) or a carbon-carbon triple bond.

[0020] Preferably, RI represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, in particular 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and in particular 17 carbon atoms. When it is unsaturated, RI preferably comprises at least one double bond (C=C), and in particular a single double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.

[0021] Preferably, R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, in particular 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and in particular 17 carbon atoms. When it is unsaturated, R2 comprises preferably at least one double bond (C=C), and in particular a single double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.

[0022] Preferably, R1 and R2 comprise the same number of carbon atoms.

[0023] Preferably, R1 and R2 are identical.

[0024] Preferably, R2 represents an oleyl group.

[0025] Preferably, RI represents an oleyl, stearyl or isostearyl group.

[0026] According to a particular embodiment, R1 and R2 are both oleyl.

[0027] According to another particular embodiment, RI represents a stearyl group or an isostearyl group and R2 represents an oleyl group.

[0028] In some embodiments, the composition may include a mixture of cationic surfactants of formula (I). In particular, the composition may include a mixture of cationic surfactants of formula (I) wherein R1 and R2 independently comprise 15 to 19, in particular 17, carbon atoms, and only one double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.

[0029] In particular, the acyl groups (-C(O)R1 and -C(O)R2) may be derived from unsaturated carboxylic fatty acids which may comprise 12 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 20 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid. The fatty acids may be of natural, vegetable or animal origin; in particular, they may be derived from vegetable oils, for example olein, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil or tall oil (pine oil).

[0030] The acyl group -C(O)R1 and -C(O)R2) may also be derived from saturated carboxylic fatty acids which may comprise 12 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 20 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of isostearic acid, palmitic acid and arachidic acid.

[0031] Non-limiting examples of cosmetically acceptable counterions include chloride, bromide, and methosulfate. In some cases, methosulfate is a preferred counterion.

[0032] Preferably, X- is an anion of halide (chloride, iodide or bromide), phosphate, acetate, lactate, sulfate or (C1-C4) alkyl sulfate, in particular methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate; (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonate or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate type.

[0033] The compounds of formula (I) can be prepared by esterification of alkanolamines, and in particular methyldiisopropanolamine (MDIA), and unsaturated or saturated carboxylic fatty acids, for example in a molar ratio ranging from 1:1.6 to 1:2, the esterification being followed by quaternization. The proportion of unsaturated fraction in these natural fatty acids can be adjusted so as to have an iodine value of between 40 and 160, in particular between 80 and 150, which is the case for the vegetable oils mentioned above.

[0034] The esterification may be carried out by any known means, in particular in the presence of a catalyst such as methanesulfonic acid, preferably in an inert atmosphere (e.g. nitrogen), preferably at a temperature of 160-240°C. The quaternization may be carried out by any known means, for example in a solvent such as ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, preferably at a temperature of 60-90°C, by adding an equimolar amount of quaternizing agent, in particular with stirring. Quaternizing agents that may be mentioned include organic or inorganic quaternizing agents such as short-chain dialkyl sulfates or phosphates, in particular dimethyl sulfate and dimethyl phosphate, or short-chain halogenated hydrocarbons such as methyl chloride.

[0035] These quaternary ammonium compounds are in particular described in patent US6653275, which describes in particular a fatty acid ester from tall oil (fatty acid chain length distribution: 1% C16, 2% C18, 37% C18:1, 60% Cl8:2 and 1% greater than Cl8) and MDIA, in a molar ratio of MDIA / fatty acids equal to 1:1.8, said ester then being quaternized with dimethyl sulfate.

[0036] We can also cite patent EP240727 which describes quaternary ammonium compounds and in particular dimethyl-di-(oleyloxyisopropyl)ammonium methosulfate.

[0037] A particularly preferred cationic surfactant of formula (I) is bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl) dimonium methosulfate commercially available, for example, under the name VARISOFT EQ 100®.

[0038] The total content of cationic surfactant of formula (I) in the composition preferably ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0039] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl) dimonium methosulfate in the composition preferably ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric polymer

[0040] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric or (zwitterionic) polymers.

[0041] The expression "amphoteric polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups, and anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0042] The amphoteric (or zwitterionic) polymers which can be used in accordance with the invention can be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C distributed statistically in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups or, alternatively, B and C can denote groups derived from carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomers;

[0043] B and C may also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulfonic group linked via a hydrocarbon-based radical or, alternatively, B and C are part of a chain of a polymer comprising an α,[3-dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.

[0044] The amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above which are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:

[0045] (1) polymers comprising as monomers at least one monomer derived of a vinyl compound carrying a carboxyl group, such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid and at least one basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, chosen in particular from the following elements: a. dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides and dialkylaminoalkylacrylamides. These compounds are described in US Patent 3,836,537. b. trialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate salts and trialkylaminoalkyl acrylate salts and trialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and trialkylaminoalkylacrylamide salts.

[0046] Mention may be made in particular of the acrylic acid / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer available from Stockhausen under the name Polymer W3794. Mention may also be made of the acrylic acid / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymers available from Nalco under the names Merquat 2001 and Merquat 2003.

[0047] (2) polymers comprising units derived from: a. at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by an alkyl radical, b. at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups and c. at least one basic comonomer such as primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine-substituted esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.

[0048] The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are groups in which the alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.

[0049] The acid comonomers are more particularly chosen from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.

[0050] Preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N'-dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.

[0051] Copolymers whose CTFA name (4th edition, 1991) is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER ® or LOVOCRYL ®47 by the company National Starch, are particularly used. 1. Copolymers comprising as monomers at least one monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group, such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and at least one monomer of diallyldialkylammonium salt type, the alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alkyl group is a methyl group.

[0052] Mention may be made, in particular, of amphoteric polymers chosen from copolymers comprising as monomers at least one monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group, such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and at least one monomer of diallyldialkylammonium salt type, the alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, more preferably from copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.

[0053] Among these polymers, copolymers comprising dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylic acid as monomers optionally combined with acrylamide are particularly preferred. Mention may be made, in particular, of the compounds sold by the company Nalco under the names Merquat 280, Merquat 295, Merquat 3330, Merquat 3331 and Merquat 3333,

[0054] (4) crosslinked and partially or totally alkylated polyaminoamides derived from polyaminoamides of general formula: —[- C û---R, J — CQ — Z —P ®

[0055] in which Rio represents a divalent radical derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, an aliphatic mono- or dicarboxylic acid containing an ethylenic double bond, an ester of a lower alkanol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids, or a radical derived from the addition of any of said acids to a bis(primary) or bis(secondary) amine and Z denotes a radical derived from a bis(primary), mono- or bis(secondary) polyalkylene-polyamine and preferably represents: a. in proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the radical: (III) H 1 ' H

[0056] where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, otherwise x = 3 and p = 2,

[0057] this radical being derived from diethylenetriamine, triethylenetetramine or dipropylenetriamine; a. in proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the radical (III) above in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the radical derived from pi-perazine: __y'~ a. in proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the radical -NH-(CH2)6-NH- derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamines being crosslinked by the addition of a difunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, dioxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide, and being alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane sultone or its salts.

[0058] The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids containing from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid and 2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid, acids containing an ethylenic double bond, for example acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid.

[0059] The alkane sultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone; the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts,

[0060] (5) polymers containing zwitterionic units of formula: R,2 c R,. n (IV) I ~ U v 7 H — fOLk—C-O' 1 Rsc

[0061] wherein RI 1 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group, such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3, R12 and R13 represent a hydrogen atom, methyl, ethyl or propyl, and R14 and R15 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R14 and R15 does not exceed 10.

[0062] Polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.

[0063] Mention may be made, by way of example, of the methyl methacrylate / dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the product sold under the name Diaformer Z301 by the company Sandoz.

[0064] (6) chitosan-derived polymers comprising cor monomeric units corresponding to the following formulas: CH,OH CH,OH CH,GH —q -- HJ—O pO-- HJ—o pO— ..........----------........JV—(H u NHOXIL HH ■ ' " 09

[0065] unit D being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, unit E in proportions of between 5% and 50% and unit F in proportions of between 30% and 90%, it being understood that, in this unit F, RI6 represents a radical of formula (V): ^(V) R—C—(O)-Ç

[0066] wherein, if q = 0, R17, R18 and R19, which may be the same or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue which are optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and / or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulfonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group carries an amino residue,

[0067]

[0068]

[0069] at least one of the radicals R17, R18 and R19 being, in this case, a hydrogen atom; or, if q = 1, R17, R18 and R19 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids, (7) polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan sold under the name Evalsan by the company Jan Dekker, (8) polymers containing units corresponding to the general formula (VI) are described in French patent 1,400,366: M-XM (VI)

[0070]

[0071]

[0072]

[0073]

[0074] in which R20 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O, CH3CH2O or phenyl radical, R21 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl, R22 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl, R23 denotes a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl or a radical corresponding to the formula: -R24-N(R22)2, R24 representing a group -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2- or -CH2-CH(CH3)-, R22 having the meanings mentioned above, as well as the higher homologues of these radicals and containing up to 6 carbon atoms, (9) amphoteric polymers of the -DXDX type chosen from: has. polymers obtained by the reaction of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate with compounds comprising at least one unit of formula: -DXDXD- (VII) where D denotes a radical and X denotes the symbol E or E', E or E', which may be the same or different, denote a divalent radical which is an alkylene radical with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is not substituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups and which may comprise, in addition to oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and / or urethane groups. a. polymers of formula:

[0075] -DXDX- (VIII)

[0076] where D denotes a radical \__ /

[0077] and X denotes the symbol E or E' and at least once E'; E having the meaning given above and E' is a divalent radical which is an alkylene radical carrying a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals and comprising one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain which is optionally interrupted with an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate,

[0078] (10) copolymers of (Cl-C5)alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride, partially modified by semi-amidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semi-esterification with an N,N-dialkanolamine. These copolymers may also include other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam,

[0079] and mixtures thereof.

[0080] The amphoteric polymers particularly preferred according to the invention are those of family (3).

[0081] Preferably, the amphoteric polymers are chosen from copolymers comprising as monomers at least one monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group, preferably acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and at least one monomer of diallyldialkylammonium salt type, the alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, more preferably from copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.

[0082] The total content of amphoteric polymer(s) in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0083] According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, more preferably of copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride in the composition, preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Oxidation dye(s)

[0084] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more dyes for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular hair.

[0085] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more dyes for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular hair.

[0086] The oxidation dyes may be selected from one or more oxidation bases optionally in combination with one or more couplers.

[0087] Preferably, the oxidative dye(s) comprises one or more oxidation bases.

[0088] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.

[0089] The oxidation bases may be present as salts, solvates and / or salt solvates.

[0090] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0091] Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation bases represent more particularly the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0092] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.

[0093] Among the para-phenylenediamines which may be cited are, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine,2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(|3-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, as well as the addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts thereof. ,

[0094] Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, particular preference is given to para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and their corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or solvated with salts.

[0095] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines which may be cited are, for example, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and l,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts.

[0096] Examples of para-aminophenols that are cited include para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts.

[0097] Among the ortho-aminophenols which may be cited are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0098] Among the heterocyclic bases which may be cited are, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.

[0099] Among the pyridine derivatives which may be cited are the compounds described, for example, in GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0100] Other pyridine oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308.Examples that may be cited include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-7-ol, . 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0101] More particularly, the oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridines and preferably substituted on the carbon atom 2 by:

[0102] a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl, amino or imidazolium group;

[0103] b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally substituted with one or more (C1-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Cl-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or

[0104] c) a (Cl-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, such as a [3-hydroxyalkoxy] group, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0105] Among the pyrimidine derivatives which may be cited are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375, or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

[0106] Among the pyrazole derivatives which may be cited are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, for example 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, , l-Methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-l-methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts. 4,5-Diamino-l-([3-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.

[0107] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt.

[0108] Pyrazole derivatives which may also be cited include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidine-1 -yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one., their salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts. ,

[0109] 2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt will preferably be used.

[0110] Preferably, as heterocyclic bases, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, a solvate and / or a solvate of a salt will be used.

[0111] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) is(are) chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and their mixtures.

[0112] When the composition comprises at least one oxidation base, the oxidation base(s) is (are) preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0113] The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibers.

[0114] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.

[0115] Among the couplers useful according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, as well as the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.

[0116] Examples that may be mentioned include 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-([3-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy indole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis([3-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, lH-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b][l,2,4]triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c][l,2,4]triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol and 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol,the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of their salts, and the corresponding mixtures.

[0117] In general, the addition salts of the couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, as well as addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0118] Furthermore, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0119] When the composition comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the content total of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0120] Where appropriate, the total content of the oxidation dyes preferably ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Chemical oxidizing agent

[0121] The composition of the invention may comprise one or more chemical oxidizing agents.

[0122] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents.

[0123] The term "chemical oxidizing agent" means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

[0124] More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, for example persulfates or perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali metal or alkaline earth metal percarbonates.

[0125] The chemical oxidizing agent is advantageously hydrogen peroxide.

[0126] Where appropriate, the concentration of chemical oxidizing agent(s) preferably ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight and better still from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Additional surfactant

[0127] The composition of the invention may further comprise one or more additional surfactants.

[0128] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional surfactants.

[0129] The additional surfactants may be chosen from cationic surfactants other than the surfactants of formula (I), anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and non-ionic surfactants.

[0130] Amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants

[0131] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0132] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more ten- amphoteric and / or zwitterionic sioactives.

[0133] The amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant(s) capable of being used in the present invention may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. In particular, mention may be made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C3-8 alkyl)betaines or (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C6-C8 alkyl)sulfobetaines. Among the secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, which can be used as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective structures (VIII) and (VIII') below:

[0134] Ra-CONHCH2CH2- N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO-) (IX)

[0135] in which: • Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid • Ra-COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, • Rb represents a [3-hydroxyethyl and • Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0136] and

[0137] Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IX')

[0138] in which: • B represents -CH2CH2OX', • B' represents -(CH2)zY', with z = 1 or 2, • X' represents the group -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom, • Y' represents -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH2-CHOH-SO3H or -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z', • Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; • Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.

[0139] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium capry-lamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium ca- pryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0140] As an example, we can cite the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

[0141] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, betaines comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 fatty chain are preferably used and, in particular, the compounds of formula (A):

[0142] Rl-(CONH)x-Al-N+(R2)(R3)-A2-Z (A)

[0143] with • x designating 0 or 1, • Al and A2 designating, independently of each other, a linear or branched C1-C10 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl radical, • RI designating a linear or branched C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, • R2 and R3 designating, independently of each other, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, • Z designating a CO2 group or an SO3 group.

[0144] Preferably, R2 and R3 denote a methyl radical.

[0145] The amphoteric surfactant(s) of betaine type used in the compositions according to the present invention may in particular be (C8-20)alkylbetaines, (C8-20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-20 alkyl)amido(C2-8 alkyl)betaines or (C8-20 alkyl)amido(C6-8 alkyl)sulfobetaines.

[0146] Among the amphoteric surfactants cited above which are preferably used are (C8-20 alkyl)betaines and (C8-20 alkyl)amido(C2-8 alkyl)betaines, and mixtures thereof.

[0147] More particularly, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are chosen from cocoylbetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0148] Preferably, the composition contains at least one amphoteric and / or zwit-terionic surfactant, preferably chosen from betaine-type surfactants, preferably (C8-20 alkyl)betaines and (C8-20 alkyl)amido(C2-8 alkyl)betaines, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from cocoylbetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0149] Where appropriate, the amount of amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants in the composition preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight and, better still, from 0.3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the first and / or second composition.

[0150] Non-ionic surfactant(s)

[0151] The composition of the invention may comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0152] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0153] Among the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention, mention may be made, alone or in mixtures, of fatty alcohols, α-diols and alkylphenols, these three types of compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated and containing a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 40 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging in particular from 2 to 30.Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average from 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as alkylamine oxides (C10-C14) or N-acylaminopropylpropylmorpholine oxides.

[0154] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from:

[0155] • (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols;

[0156] • glycerolated fatty alcohols;

[0157] • alkylpolyglycosides.

[0158] The expression “fatty chain” designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0159] As regards alkyl polyglycosides or APG, they are more particularly chosen from the compounds of general formula:

[0160] R10-(R20)t (G)v (X)

[0161] formula (X) in which: • RI represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical comprising approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 8 to 24 carbon atoms; • R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms; • G represents a sugar unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms; • t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4, and • v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.

[0162] The preferred alkyl polyglycosides according to the present invention are compounds of formula (X) in which RI more particularly denotes a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and more particularly still equal to 0, and G can designate glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose.

[0163] The degree of polymerization, namely the value of v in formula (X), can range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2 and even more preferably from 1.1 to 1.5.

[0164] The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type.

[0165] The compounds of formula (X) are in particular represented by the products sold by Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000). It is also possible to use the products sold by Seppic under the names Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix® NS 10), the products sold by BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70 or the products sold by Chem Y under the name AGIO LK.

[0166] It is also possible to use, for example, a C8-C16 alkyl 1,4-polyglucoside in the form of a 53% aqueous solution, sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

[0167] As regards the mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants, they preferably comprise on average from 1 to 30 glycerol groups, more particularly from 1 to 10 and in particular from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups.

[0168] The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated surfactants are preferably chosen from the compounds of the following formulas:

[0169] RO[CH2CH(CH2OH)O]mH,

[0170] RO[CH2CH(OH)CH2O]mH or

[0171] RO[CH(CH2OH)CH2O]mH ;

[0172] formulas in which:

[0173] • R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms; m is an integer between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10 and more particularly from 1.5 to 6; R may optionally comprise heteroatoms, for example oxygen and nitrogen. In particular, R may optionally comprise one or more hydroxyl and / or ether and / or amide groups. R preferably denotes optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated C10-C20 alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals.

[0174] For example, it is possible to use polyglycerolated hydroxylauryl ether (3.5 mol) sold under the name Chimexane® NF from Chimex.

[0175] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols which are suitable for carrying out the invention are chosen more particularly from alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0176] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols contain more particularly one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular, by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0177] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohol(s) preferably correspond(s) to the following formula:

[0178] Ra-[O-CH2-CH2]n-OH

[0179] with • Ra representing a linear or branched C8-C40 alkyl group or a linear or branched C8-C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and • n is an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferably between 2 and 50 and more particularly between 8 and 30, such as 20.

[0180] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO). Among these, mention may be made more particularly of lauryl alcohol 2 EO, lauryl alcohol 3 EO, decyl alcohol 3 EO, decyl alcohol 5 EO and oleyl alcohol 20 EO.

[0181] Mixtures of these (poly)oxyethylenated fatty alcohols can also be used.

[0182] Among the non-ionic surfactants, (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols and C6-C24 alkyl polyglucosides, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used, and (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly used.

[0183] Where appropriate, the amount of non-ionic surfactant preferably ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.8% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

[0184] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a total content of oxyethylenated fatty alcohol(s) ranging from 0.1% to 105% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight and, more particularly, from 0.8% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty substance

[0185] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more fatty substances.

[0186] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances.

[0187] By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably in less than 0.1% by weight). They carry in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or deca-methylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0188] Advantageously, the fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0189] Preferably, the fatty substances which are used according to the invention are non-silicone.

[0190] The term "non-silicone fatty substance" is intended to mean a fatty substance containing no Si-O bonds and the term "silicone fatty substance" is intended to mean a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.

[0191] The fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. By liquid fatty substance is meant a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa). By solid fatty substance is meant a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa).

[0192] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa).

[0193] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention is / are chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0194] It is recalled that fatty alcohols, esters and acids contain more particularly at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group, comprising from 6 to 40 and, better still, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-double bonds. conjugated or unconjugated carbon.

[0195] With regard to the C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, these may be linear, branched or optionally cyclic and are preferably selected from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0196] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly (INCI name ore oil or para-raffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0197] One animal-derived hydrocarbon-based oil that may be cited is perhydrosqualene.

[0198] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from triglycerides of liquid fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, almond oil, argan oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0199] Concerning the fluorinated oils, they can be chosen from perfluoromethyl-cyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetrafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nona-fluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoro-morpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.

[0200] The liquid fatty alcohols which are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples which may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, lino-lenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and their mixtures.

[0201] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0202] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention originate is branched.

[0203] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate; such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0204] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0205] Still in the context of this variant, esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or hydroxyalcohols may also be used.

[0206] Mention may also be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; pentaerythrityl glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0207] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates hydrocarbon compounds bearing oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0208] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0209] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen, in particular, from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C6 to C30 and preferably in C12 to C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0210] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-esters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0211] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, for example in particular the mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate.

[0212] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used and, in particular, mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0213] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0214] Preferably, a liquid ester of a monoacid and a monoalcohol will be used.

[0215] Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) is (are) chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin and their mixtures.

[0216] The solid fats according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.

[0217] The solid fatty substance(s) is (are) preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

[0218] The term "fatty acids" is intended to denote a long-chain carboxylic acid. chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and, better still, from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0219] The solid fatty acids which can be used in the present invention are especially selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid (or palmitic acid), arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0220] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid(s) is(are) chosen from lauric acid, cetyl acid (palmitic acid), stearic acid, myristic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0221] The term "fatty alcohol" is intended to mean a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl OH group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

[0222] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and still better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0223] The solid fatty alcohols which can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and still better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0224] The solid fatty alcohols which can be used can be chosen, alone or in a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0225] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0226] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol which can be used are preferably chosen from the esters resulting from a carboxylic fatty acid in C9-C26 and / or a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0227] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0228] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols may also be used.

[0229] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, dioctyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0230] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0231] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point above about 40°C and up to 200°C, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence).

[0232] In particular, the waxes which are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, syn- non-silicone thetics and their mixtures.

[0233] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for example beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, bay berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0234] Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0235] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0236] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C8 to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may be made, in particular, of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, in particular the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

[0237] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, can also be used.

[0238] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydropolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company Koster Keunen.

[0239] It is also possible to use micro-waxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made in particular of camauba micro-waxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic wax micro-waxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, micro-waxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, micro-waxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene micro-waxes, such as products sold under the names Micro 200®, 220L®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetraethylene micro-waxes, such as products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

[0240] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for example paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; vegetable waxes, for example cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, alfa wax or absolute flower waxes, such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for example beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0241] The ceramides, or ceramide analogues such as glyceramides, which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.

[0242] The ceramides or analogues thereof which may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:

[0243] RI denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0244] R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0245] R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glyceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.

[0246] The ceramides which are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated C15 group.

[0247] Preferably, ceramides are used for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0248] It is also possible to use compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical in C12-C22 and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0249] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypahnitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoyinohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingoine, N-palmitohydrosphingoine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoylhydrodihydrosphingosine, N-do-cosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucgamine, N- (2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)cetyl acid amide, and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.

[0250] The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols and their mixtures.

[0251] Preferably, the composition does not comprise fatty acids.

[0252] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance, preferentially chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin and their mixtures.

[0253] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols.

[0254] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one solid fatty substance, preferably at least one liquid hydrocarbon containing more than 16 carbon atoms and at least one solid fatty alcohol and their mixtures.

[0255] Where applicable, the total fatty substance content in the composition, preferably in non-silicone fatty substance, can range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0256] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition has a content of fatty substances, preferably non-silicone fatty substances, which are liquid at 25°C, ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0257] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition has a content of substances fatty substances, preferably non-silicone fatty substances, which are solid at 25°C, ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Associative polymer

[0258] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more associative polymers different from the amphoteric polymers described above.

[0259] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more associative polymers.

[0260] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "associative polymer" designates an amphiphilic polymer which is capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with itself or with other molecules. It generally includes, in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.

[0261] The associative polymers according to the invention are polymers comprising at least one fatty chain including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the molecules of which are capable, in the formulation medium, of combining with each other or with molecules of other compounds. Preferably, the fatty chain includes from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0262] A particular case of associative polymers is amphiphilic polymers, i.e. polymers comprising one or more hydrophilic parts or groups which make them soluble in water and one or more hydrophobic regions or groups (including at least one fatty chain) through which the polymers interact and assemble with each other or with other molecules.

[0263] The term "hydrophobic group" refers to a group or polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S or a radical containing a perfluoro or silicone chain. When referring to a hydrocarbon-based group, the hydrophobic group includes at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based hydrophobic group originates from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol, such as Steareth-100. It can also refer to a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for example polybutadiene.

[0264] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "fatty chain" denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain including at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and, more preferably, from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. carbon.

[0265] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "fatty compound", for example a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, designates a compound comprising, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain, including at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and, better still, from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0266] Among the anionic associative polymers, we can notably cite:

[0267] (A) those including at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one allyl ether unit fatty chain; and more particularly, those: • whose hydrophilic unit is constituted by an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, even more particularly by a vinylcarboxylic acid and more particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or their mixtures; and • whose fatty chain allylic ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (!') below: CH2=C(R')-CH2OBnR • in which R' denotes H or CH3, B denotes an ethyleneoxy radical, n ranges from 0 to 100 and R denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, R' denotes H, n = 10 and R denotes a stearyl radical (Ci8).

[0268] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether of formula (1') and from 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is preferably a copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide are particularly preferred.

[0269] Preference is more particularly given to crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth-10), in particular the product sold by the company BASF under the name Salcare SC80, which is a 30% aqueous emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and Steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10) having the INCI name Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer;

[0270] (B) those including i) at least one hydrophilic unit of carboxylic acid type unsaturated olefinic, and at least one hydrophobic unit of the alkyl ester (C10-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.

[0271] These polymers are preferably chosen from those in which the hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (XI) below: CH.=C-Ü-OH (XI) I II R, D

[0272] in which RI denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, and for which the hydrophobic unit of C10-C30 alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (XII) below: Œ. = CC-OR. (XII) I II R. 0

[0273] in which R2 denotes H, CH3 or C2H5 and R3 denotes a C10-C30 and preferably C[2-C22] alkyl radical.

[0274] (Ci0-C30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0275] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) (meth)acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of formula (XI) described above and in which R2 denotes H or CH3 and R3 denotes an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally (iii) a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylene bis-acrylamide will be used more particularly.

[0276] Among the anionic associative polymers of this type, those consisting of 95% to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98% to 96% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those described above, are more particularly preferred.

[0277] We can notably cite the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TRI, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol ETD 2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20, Carbopol Ultrez 21, having the INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and even more preferably Pemulen TRI and Carbopol 1382;

[0278] (C) maleic anhydride / C30-C38 a-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as that the maleic anhydride / C30-C38 a-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer sold under the name Performa V 1608® by the company Newphase Technologies (INCI Name: C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer);

[0279] (D) acrylic terpolymers comprising (a) from 20% to 70% by weight of an acid carboxylic acid a,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated, (b) from 20% to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant a,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated monomer other than (a), and (c) from 0.5% to 60% by weight of a non-ionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate.

[0280] Mention may in particular be made of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl(meta-isopropenyl)benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol terpolymer (40 EO), in particular as a 25% aqueous dispersion, such as the product Viscophobe DB1000 sold by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemical), under the INCI name Poly-acrylate-3;

[0281] (E) copolymers including among their monomers (i) a carboxylic acid a,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated, such as acrylic or methacrylic acid, and (ii) an ester of an a,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, in particular acrylic or methacrylic acid, and of fatty alcohol, in particular Cx C32 fatty alcohol. which is oxyalkylenated, comprising in particular from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, in particular from 4 to 50, or even from 10 to 40 EO.

[0282] Mention may in particular be made, as monomers, of behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylate comprising 10 to 40 EO, in particular 18 to 30 EO.

[0283] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and a C1-C4 alcohol, in particular a C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate.

[0284] Preferably, these copolymers comprise at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C, C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one C8-C32 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer which is oxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 100 mol EO, in particular from 4 to 50 EO, or even from 10 to 40 EO.

[0285] For example, we can cite Aculyn 22 sold by the company Rohm and Haas, which is a terpolymer of oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate (INCI name: Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or also Aculyn 28 sold by Rohm and Haas, which is a terpolymer of oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) and also the polymer Novethix L-10 sold by Lubrizol;

[0286] (F) associative polymers including at least one ethylenically unsaturated bearing a sulfonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.

[0287] Among the polymers of this type, we can cite more particularly: • crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers, comprising from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS units (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salt) and from 40% to 85% by weight of C8-C16 alkyl (meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A750 899; • terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6-C8)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in US patent 5,089,578; • copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, and also copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, which are uncrosslinked and crosslinked; • copolymers consisting of AMPS units and steareth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMS^ sold by Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer), or beheneth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMB (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) sold by Clariant, or also steareth-8 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex SNC^ from Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-8 Methacrylate Copolymer);

[0288] (G) associative polymers including at least one vinyllactam monomer and at least one at least one α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, such as terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and C1-C20 alkyl methacrylate, for example lauryl methacrylate, such as the product sold by the company ISP under the name Acrylidone® LM (INCI name: VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer).

[0289] Among the cationic associative polymers, we can cite:

[0290] (A1) cationic associative polyurethanes, which can be represented by the general formula (the) below:

[0291] RX-(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L'-(P')p-X'-R'

[0292] in which: • R and R', which may be the same or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; • X and X', which may be the same or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally carrying a hy- group

[0293]

[0294]

[0295]

[0296]

[0297]

[0298]

[0299] drophobe, or alternatively an L group”; • L, L' and L", which may be the same or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate; • P and P', which may be the same or different, represent a group including an amine function optionally carrying a hydrophobic group; • Y represents a hydrophilic group; • r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and, in particular, between 1 and 25 inclusive; • n, m and p are each, independently of each other, between 0 and 1000 inclusive; the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group. Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the R and R' groups at the ends of the chain. A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the formula (Ia) described above, in which: • R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, • X and X' each represent a group L", • n and p are integers between 1 and 1000 inclusive and • L, L', L", P, P', Y and m have the meanings given above. Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the formula (Ia) above in which: • n = p = 0 (polymers do not include any unit derived from a monomer containing an amine function, incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation), the protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions at the end of the chain, followed by the alkylation of the primary amine functions formed with alkylating agents containing a hydrophobic group, i.e. compounds of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a starting group such as a halide or a sulfate, etc. Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the formula (Ia) above in which: • R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, • X and X' both independently represent a group including an amine quaternary, • n = p = 0 and • L, L', Y and m have the meaning indicated above. The number-average molecular mass (Mn) of associative polyurethanes ca tionic is preferably between 400 and 500,000 inclusive, in particular between 1000 and 400,000 inclusive and ideally between 1000 and 300,000 inclusive.

[0300] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group comes from a monofunctional compound.

[0301] For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for example polybutadiene.

[0302] When X and / or X' denote(s) a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and / or X' may represent one of the following formulas:

[0303] in which: • R2 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P; • R1 and R3, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical or an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P; • A is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, e.g., chloride or bromide or mesylate.

[0304] The groups L, L' and L" represent a group of formula: —Z~C - NH-Rx-NH-C -Z— HM OO

[0305] in which: • Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH- and • R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P.

[0306] The groups P and P' comprising an amine function can represent at least one of the following formulas:

[0307] in which: • R5 and R7 have the same meanings as R2 defined above; • R6, R8 and R9 have the same meanings as Ri and R3 defined above; • Rio represents a linear or branched alkylene group, optionally unsaturated, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P and

[0308] A is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, e.g., chloride or bromide, or mesylate.

[0309] With respect to the meaning of Y, the term "hydrophilic group" means a water-soluble polymeric or non-polymeric group.

[0310] For example, when it is not a polymer, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol may be mentioned.

[0311] When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferably a polyether and, in particular, a poly(ethylene oxide) or a poly(propylene oxide).

[0312] The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and various compounds bearing functions containing labile hydrogen. The functions containing labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions, giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, res respectively. In the present invention, the term "polyurethanes" encompasses these three types of polymers, namely polyurethanes per se, polyureas and polythioureas, as well as their copolymers.

[0313] A first type of compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound comprising at least one unit carrying an amine function. This compound may be multifunctional, but the compound is preferentially difunctional, that is to say that, according to a preferred embodiment, this compound includes two labile hydrogen atoms carried, for example, by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function. A mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low may also be used.

[0314] As mentioned above, this compound may include more than one unit containing an amine function. In this case, it is a polymer bearing a repetition of the unit containing an amine function.

[0315] Compounds of this type may be represented by one of the following formulas:

[0316] Z-(P)n-ZH or HZ-(P')p-ZH, in which Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above- above.

[0317] Examples that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

[0318] The second compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula: O=C=N-R4-N=C=O in which R4 is as defined above.

[0319] Examples that may be mentioned include methylenediphenyl diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, tolylene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate.

[0320] A third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (Ia).

[0321] This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a function containing a labile hydrogen, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.

[0322] For example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. When this compound includes a polymer chain, it may be, for example, α-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.

[0323] The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) may also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound including; at least; one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced via the quaternization agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

[0324] The cationic associative polyurethane may also comprise a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound involved in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably di-functional. It is also possible to have a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.

[0325] The functions containing labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol. This compound can be a polymer terminated at the ends of the chain with one of these functions containing labile hydrogen.

[0326] For example, when it is not a polymer, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol may be mentioned.

[0327] When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferably a polyether and; in particular; a poly(ethylene oxide) or a poly(propylene oxide).

[0328] The hydrophilic group called Y in formula (Ia) is optional. In particular, units containing a quaternary or protonated amine function may be sufficient to provide the water solubility or dispersibility required for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.

[0329] Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes including such a group are nevertheless preferred.

[0330] (B ') quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular: i. quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms or mixtures thereof; ii. quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms or mixtures thereof; iii. hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):

[0331] in which: • - R and R', which may be the same or different, represent a group ammonium -RaRbRcN+ Q in which Ra, Rb and Rc, which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30, preferably C1-C20, alkyl group, such as methyl or dodecyl; and Q represents an anionic counterion, such as a halide, for example a chloride or a bromide and • - n, x and y, which can be the same or different, represent a number integer between 1 and 10,000.

[0332] The alkyl radicals carried by the above quaternized celluloses i) or the above quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses ii) include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

[0333] Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses bearing C8 to C30 fatty chains include the product Quatrisoft LM 200^ sold by the company Amerchol / Dow Chemical (INCI name: Polyquaternium-24) and the products Crodacel QM^ (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose cocodimonium chloride), Crodacel QL^ (C12 alkyl) (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose lauryldimonium chloride) and Crodacel QS^ (C[8] alkyl) (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose stearyldimonium chloride) sold by the company Croda.

[0334] Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, more preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3)3N+-, Cl and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(Ci2H25)N+-, Cl. This type of polymer is known under the trade name Softcat Polymer SL®, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from the company Amerchol / Dow Chemical, bearing the INCI name Polyquaternium-67.

[0335] More particularly, the polymers of formula (Ib) are those whose viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive. Preferably, the viscosity is between 2700 and 2800 cPs inclusive. Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.

[0336] (C) cationic polyvinyllactams, in particular those comprising: a. at least one vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer; b. at least one monomer of structure (le) or (Ile) below: R3 । J -j- CH~C(RJ-QO—X—(Y)—(CH2-CH2-O)——N—R4 R. (the) Z" “ A:, CH~C{RJ-CO-X-(Y)—(CH2-CH2-O)-(CH2-CH(R2)-O)-(Y1)-— (IIC) R4

[0337] in which: • X denotes an oxygen atom or an NR6 radical, • R1 and R6 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical> • R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical,

[0338] R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (IIIc): ---—(CH2-CH(R7)-O)—Rg (IIIc)

[0339] in which: • Y, Yi and Y2 denote, independently of each other, a linear or branched C2-C16 alkylene radical, • R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical; • R8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched CrC3o alkyl radical, • p, q and r designate, independently of each other, either the value zero or the value 1, • m and n designate, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 0 to 100 inclusive, • x denotes an integer from 1 to 100 inclusive; • Z denotes an anionic counterion of an organic or mineral acid, such as a halide, for example chloride or bromide, or mesylate;

[0340] provided that • at least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or R8 denotes a linear or branched C9-C30 alkyl radical, • if m or n is different from zero, then q is equal to 1, • if m or n is equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0.

[0341] The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and may also be block polymers.

[0342] Preferably, the counterion Z of the monomers of formula (Ic) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ion and tosylate ion.

[0343] Preferably, R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical.

[0344] More preferably, the monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic) for which, preferably, m and n are equal to 0.

[0345] The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc):

[0346] in which s denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical and Rio denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, provided that at least one of the radicals R9 and Rio denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0347] More preferably still, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

[0348] The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic monomers.

[0349] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may be made of the following terpolymers comprising at least: a. a monomer of formula (IVc), b. a monomer of formula (Ic) in which p=l, q=0, R3 and R4 denote, independently depending on each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical and R5 denotes a linear or branched C9-C24 alkyl radical and c. a monomer of formula (Ile) in which R3 and R4 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical.

[0350] More preferably still, terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40% to 95% of monomer (a), 0.1% to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25% to 50% of monomer (b) will be used. These polymers are described, in particular, in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0351] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, the following are used in particular: • vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, • vinylpyrrolidone / dimethyla- tosylate terpolymers minopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium • vinylpyrrolidone chloride or tosylate terpolymers / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropyla mmonium.

[0352] The vinylpyrrolidone chloride / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethylacrylamidopropylammonium terpolymer is notably sold by the company ISP under the names Styleze W10^ and Styleze W20L^ (INCI name: Polyquatemium-55).

[0353] The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20,000,000, more particularly between 200,000 and 2,000,000 and, preferably, between 400,000 and 800,000.

[0354] (D1) cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomers and one or more associative vinyl monomers, as described in patent application WO 2004 / 024779.

[0355] Among these polymers, mention will be made more particularly of the products resulting from the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising: • a di(Ci-C4 alkyl)amino(Ci-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, • one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, • a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide units), • a 30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether, • a hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and • an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0356] Such a polymer is, for example, the compound sold by the company Lubrizol under the name Carbopol Aqua CC^ and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.

[0357] The non-ionic associative polymers are preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0358] (1) celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl and; better still C|4-C28; preferably from: • hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl and; better still, C14-C28, such than alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for example cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose sold in particular under the reference Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Ashland, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by the company Ashland, • hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol nonylphenyl ether (15)) sold by the company Amerchol, • and their mixtures.

[0359] (2) hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups including at least one chain fatty, in particular C8-C32 alkyl and better still, C14-C28, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the Lamberti company, and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the Rhodia company,

[0360] (3) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic chain monomers fatty, especially C8-C32 alkyl and more preferably C[4-C28. Examples that may be cited include: • the vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer and, in particular, the Antaron V216 or Ganex V216 products sold by the company ISP; • the vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer and, in particular, the Antaron V220 or Ganex V220 products sold by the company ISP;

[0361] (4) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and amphiphilic monomers including at least one fatty chain, in particular a C8-C32 alkyl chain and better still, a C14-C28 alkyl chain, such as for example the methyl acrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the Goldschmidt Company under the name Antil 208.

[0362] (5) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hy monomers drophobes including at least one fatty chain, in particular a C8-C32 and better still, a C14-C28 alkyl chain, for example polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0363] (6) polyurethane polyethers including in their chain both hy drophiles usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which can be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences,

[0364] (7) polymers comprising an aminoplastic ether backbone having at least a fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl and better still, C14-C28, such as the Pure Thix compounds sold by the company Süd-Chemie.

[0365] Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers include at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are envisaged. In addition, the polymer may include a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

[0366] Polyether polyurethanes can be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer carrying a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These same polymers can also be graft polymers or star polymers.

[0367] Nonionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain including from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers include a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.

[0368] By extension, also included among the non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

[0369] As examples of non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers which can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate 205® carrying a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®. Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210® containing a C12-C14 alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212® containing a C18 alkyl chain, from Akzo. The product DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas having a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, supplied at a solids content of 20% in water, can also be used.

[0370] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an aqueous / alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244, sold by the company Rheox. It is also possible to use the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas.

[0371] The polyurethane polyethers which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci. 271, 380.389 (1993).

[0372] It is even more particularly preferred to use a polyether polyurethane which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) of stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0373] These polyurethane polyethers are sold in particular by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol having 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol having 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0374] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more associative polymers.

[0375] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more associative polymers anionic, preferably chosen from copolymers including among their monomers (i) an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, such as acrylic or methacrylic acid, and (ii) an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, in particular acrylic or methacrylic acid, and fatty alcohol, in particular C8-C32 fatty alcohol> which is oxyalkylenated, comprising in particular from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, in particular from 4 to 50, or even from 10 to 40 EO.

[0376] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more anionic associative polymers, preferentially chosen from copolymers comprising at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one C8-C32 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer which is oxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 100 moles, in particular from 4 to 50 EO, or even from 10 to 40 EO.

[0377] Where appropriate, the associative polymer(s) is (are) present in the composition in a total content preferably ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0378] Where appropriate, the associative polymer(s) is (are) present in the composition in a total content preferably ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0379] Where appropriate, the anionic associative polymer(s) chosen from copolymers comprising at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one C8-C32 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer which is oxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 100 moles EO, in particular from 4 to 50 EO, or even from 10 to 40 EO, is (are) present in the composition in a total content preferably ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkaline agent

[0380] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more alkaline agents.

[0381] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent.

[0382] For the purposes of the present invention, the expressions “alkaline agent” and “agent “basifying” are used interchangeably.

[0383] The alkaline agent may be chosen from a mineral, organic and hybrid alkaline agent.

[0384] The mineral basifying agent or agents are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures thereof.

[0385] The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

[0386] The term “alkanolamine” designates an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0387] Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0388] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and mixtures thereof.

[0389] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids may be chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.

[0390] The organic amine can also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. In addition to histidine which has already been mentioned in the amino acids, it is possible mention in particular pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Amino acid dipeptides which may be used in the present invention include in particular carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine function. Examples of such amines other than arginine that may be used in the present invention include creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid, and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.

[0391] Hybrid compounds that may be used include in particular guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.

[0392] The alkaline agent(s) useful according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from alkanolamines and ammonium hydroxide, better still from alkanolamines, even better still monoethanolamine.

[0393] According to a particular preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of ammonium hydroxide.

[0394] The total content of alkaline agent(s), where appropriate, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, better still from 2% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0395] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of alkanolamine, preferably monoethanolamine, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, better still from 2% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0396] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “cosmetically acceptable medium” is intended to designate a medium compatible with keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0397] The cosmetically acceptable medium of the composition according to the present invention generally comprises water and / or one or more water-soluble organic solvents. Examples of water-soluble organic solvents that may be cited include lower Cr-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol; polyols or polyol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or their ethers such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, or alternatively glycerol; and also mixtures thereof.

[0398] The water content generally ranges from 10% to 99% by weight, preferably from 20% to 98% by weight and more preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0399] Where appropriate, the organic solvents are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight approximately, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition, and even more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0400] The composition according to the invention may also comprise additional compounds conventionally used in cosmetics. These compounds may in particular be chosen from thickening or stabilizing polymers other than the associative polymers described above, revitalizing polymers other than the amphoteric polymers described above, in particular cationic polymers, chelating agents and perfumes.

[0401] It goes without saying that those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional additives in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or not significantly, affected in a detrimental manner by the addition(s) envisaged.

[0402] Preferably, the pH of the composition is between 8 and 13, more preferably between 9 and 12.

[0403] The pH of the composition can be corrected to the desired value by means of one or more acidic or alkaline agents commonly used in the dyeing of keratinous fibers, such as those described above, or alternatively by means of buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.

[0404] The composition according to the invention may be in different forms, such as in the form of a cream, a gel or a mousse, or in any other form which is suitable for the treatment of keratinous materials, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0405] The present invention also relates to a method for treating keratinous fibers, such as hair, in particular for coloring and / or lightening the hair, in which a composition as described above is applied to said keratinous fibers.

[0406] Preferably, after an optional exposure time, the composition is removed by rinsing.

[0407] The time for which the composition is left on the hair can range from 1 minute to 60 minutes, better still from 5 minutes to 45 minutes and even better from 10 minutes to 30 minutes.

[0408] The composition can be applied to damp or dry hair.

[0409] Another subject of the invention is a product for dyeing human keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: A. a dye composition comprising one or more oxidation dye(s) as defined above; B. an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined above, preferably hydrogen peroxide;

[0410] the dyeing composition and / or the oxidizing composition comprising one or more cationic surfactants of formula (I) as defined above and the dyeing composition and / or the oxidizing composition comprising one or more amphoteric polymers as defined above.

[0411] According to a preferred embodiment, the dyeing composition comprises one or more amphoteric polymers and the oxidizing composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (I).

[0412] Preferably, the content of oxidizing agent(s), preferably hydrogen peroxide, in the oxidizing composition preferably ranges from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.

[0413] The oxidizing composition may comprise water and / or one or more organic solvents as described above.

[0414] Preferably, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when aqueous, is less than 7, more preferably in the range of 1 to 5, even more preferably 1.5 to 4.

[0415] The invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratinous fibers comprising mixing the dyeing composition with the oxidation composition as defined above and applying the resulting mixture to the keratinous fibers.

[0416] This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.

[0417] Preferably, the weight ratio of the amounts of dye composition and oxidizing composition ranges from 0.1 to 10 and preferably from 0.3 to 3.

[0418] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, having a limiting character. EXAMPLE Compositions

[0419] Composition A according to the present invention and comparative compositions C1 to C3 were prepared using the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (quantities in g% of active material):

[0420] [Tables 1] A Cl C2 C3 MINERAL OIL 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 2.20 2.20 2.20 2.20 ACRYLATES / BEHENETH-25 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER 0.25 0.25 0.33 0.33 CARBOMER 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 POLYQUATERNIUM-22 0.20 0.20 - - BIS-(ISOSTEAROYL / OLEOYLISOPROPY L) DIMONIUM METHOSULFATE 0.50 - 0.50 - COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 0.38 0.38 - - SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE - - 0.70 0.70 BEHENETH-10 0.22 0.22 0.22 0.22 CETEARETH-60 MYRISTYL GLYCOL 0.015 0.015 0.015 0.015 CETEARETH-33 0.76 0.76 0.76 0.76 GLYCERIN 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2,4-DIAMINOPHENOXYETHANOL HCl 0.18 0.18 0.18 0.18 p-PHENYLENEDIAMINE 0.88 0.88 0.88 0.88 N,N-BIS(2-HYDROXYETHYL)-p-PHENYLENEDIAMINE SULFATE 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 RESORCINOL 0.76 0.76 0.76 0.76 m-AMINOPHENOL 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.21 ETHANOLAMINE 2.36 2.36 2.36 2.36 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Stabilizing, chelating and reducing agents QS QS QS QS PERFUME QS QS QS QS WATER qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

[0421] Each composition is applied to strands of natural hair containing 90% white hair in a proportion of 10g of mixture to 1g of hair.

[0422] After a setting time of 30 minutes at 27°C, the hair is rinsed and dried.

[0423] Hair flexibility is assessed using the “curve compression method”.

[0424] The method uses rods to create a combined process that includes bending as well as compressing the hair. The hair strand moves through aligned rods. The rods bend the hair strand and compress it in the vertical plane. The force required to bend and compress the hair strand is measured. The lower the force required to bend and compress the hair, the more flexible the hair.

[0425] In the present example, the strands were passed through the rods at a speed of 100 mm / min. The assessment was carried out 5 times per strand. The force required to bend and compress the strand of hair was measured each time and the average force is shown in the table below.

[0426] Results:

[0427] [Tables2] Force (gram-force) Average A (invention) 14.65 + / - 0.35 Cl (comparative) 16.73 + / - 0.84 C2 (comparative) 21.42+ / -0.98 C3 (comparative) 18.97 + / - 0.25

[0428] Composition A makes it possible to considerably reduce the force required to bend and compress the strand of hair. We can conclude that composition A according to the invention improves the softness of the hair.

[0429] Furthermore, composition A according to the invention leads to good dyeing properties.

[0430] The composition according to the invention improves the softness of the hair, while retaining good dyeing properties.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition comprising: a) one or more cationic surfactants of formula (I): CH. O ® i.. ° Il pp QH;—CH —0—C—RI HX \ CH—CH-O—C-R2 X- " 1 II ch3 0 in which - RI and R2, identical or different, are a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon fraction comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms and - X- is a cosmetically acceptable counterion; b) one or more amphoteric polymers and c) one or more chemical oxidizing agents and / or one or more oxidation dyes.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which R1 and R2 are a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon fraction comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, in particular 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and more particularly 17 carbon atoms.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which R1 and R2, identical or different, comprise at least one double bond (C=C), and in particular a single double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.

4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein R1 and R2 both represent an oleyl group or R1 represents a stearyl group and R2 represents an oleyl group.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amphoteric polymer(s) is / are chosen from copolymers comprising as monomers at least one monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group, preferably acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and at least one monomer of diallyldialalkylammonium salt type, the alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, more preferably primarily from copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s), the chemical oxidizing agent(s) being chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts such as for example persulfates or perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline-earth percarbonates, the chemical oxidizing agent preferably being hydrogen peroxide.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more oxidation dyes, preferably chosen from oxidation bases and oxidation couplers and mixtures thereof.

8. Product for dyeing human keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: A) a dyeing composition comprising one or more oxidation dyes; B) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents; the dyeing composition and / or the oxidizing composition comprising one or more cationic surfactants of formula (I) according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and the dyeing composition and / or the oxidizing composition comprising one or more amphoteric polymer(s) according to claim 5.

9. A product according to claim 8, wherein the dyeing composition comprises one or more amphoteric polymers and the oxidizing composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (I).

10. A method of dyeing human keratinous fibers comprising mixing the dyeing composition with the oxidation composition defined in claim 8 or 9 and applying the resulting mixture to the human keratinous fibers.