Tinted Sunscreen Cosmetic Composition

Abstract

The invention relates to a tinted sunscreen cosmetic composition, in the form of an emulsion, suitable for topical application to the skin, comprising water, the particulate sunscreen phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, at least one emulsifier, at least one oily emollient, at least one pigment in a weight content of 1 to 5%, and a suspending agent selected from unmodified smectites in a weight content of 0.3 to 2%.

Description

Title of the invention: Tinted Sunscreen Cosmetic Composition

[0001] The present invention relates to a tinted sunscreen cosmetic composition comprising the particulate sunscreen phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine.

[0002] TECHNICAL CONTEXT

[0003] The field of photoprotection is a major public health issue to prevent skin damage from overexposure to the sun.

[0004] The potentially harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin are well known, and a multitude of sun protection products, commonly called sunscreens, are marketed to prevent these effects. Skin damage is mainly induced by ultraviolet radiation (UVA and / or UVB), but also by visible light, including high-energy blue visible light, and infrared radiation via damage to macromolecules leading to lesions of deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA), oxidative stress, lipid peroxidation, and degradation of the dermal matrix.

[0005] Among existing sunscreens, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine is a particulate organic sunscreen (also called a UV filter) with the particularity of absorbing and reflecting the harmful part of the solar spectrum, which includes UVB, short UVA, long UVA, and also high-energy blue light (Bacqueville et al., Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences (2021) 20: 1475-1486). Its properties thus make it a particularly interesting sunscreen for the field of photoprotection and the prevention of photoaging.

[0006] Photoprotective systems combining phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine with other existing sunscreens have already been proposed in the prior art, and more particularly systems developed to optimize the number and total quantity of sunscreens in order to obtain better results in terms of tolerance and toxicity for the user, and reduce the environmental impact of sunscreens (WO 2013 / 113745).

[0007] The phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine-based sunscreen compositions described and marketed to date are mainly emulsions, and more particularly oil-in-water emulsions. These compositions are available in untinted or lightly tinted forms.

[0008] Pigments have become almost indispensable in cosmetics. They allow for the coloring of compositions and give a unique dimension to the face thanks to their shade. Pigments are insoluble solid chemical substances. Particles that impart color and nuance to the compositions that contain them. Numerous commercial materials are available, offering a wide range of colors, shades, and reflections, depending on their optical properties, which are determined by the nature of the pigment, its size, its coating, etc.

[0009] Tinted sunscreens combine sun filters with a colored base typically composed of various preparations and concentrations of iron oxides and pigmented titanium dioxide, which may also optimize protection against visible light. To meet consumer demand while taking into account their skin phenotypes, tinted products in different shades are available. The tint is obtained by mixing the three iron oxides—yellow, red, and black—with pigmented titanium dioxide.

[0010] Iron oxides are pigments produced from iron sulfate. Depending on their oxidation state, they can appear yellow, red, or black. A yellow or red pigment appears as such due to the reflection of the corresponding wavelengths in the visible range. The black appearance of a pigment is due to absorption throughout the visible region, with no photons being reflected in this range. Depending on the desired hue, pigmentary titanium dioxide (i.e., titanium dioxide that is not nanometric) is another pigment that can be used to provide coverage and opacity. It appears white because it reflects all photons of visible light.

[0011] There is currently a need for new tinted sunscreen compositions comprising the sunscreen filter of interest, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, and offering a wider range of shades (including darker shades) than current tinted sunscreen compositions, so as to be able to meet the needs of all skin phototypes. This may require incorporating a higher total quantity of pigments into the sunscreen compositions. The present invention aims to provide such tinted sunscreen compositions, particularly those with a darker shade than prior art tinted sunscreen compositions. Achieving good coverage for such compositions is also one of the objectives of the present invention.

[0012] In addition to this, there is the appeal to consumers for light and fluid, non-sticky textures, which the invention also aims to satisfy.

[0013] In this context, having to suspend a larger quantity of particulate charges—including the particulate sunscreen phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine—in an oil-in-water emulsion, the formulator will face the risk of formula instability due to this significant quantity of particulate charges to be suspended and kept in suspension; and this is particularly true when the particulate charges are distributed in each of the two phases of the emulsion. Problems of instability in the formulation can result in the migration and separation of pigments towards the surface of the composition, making it inhomogeneous and unsatisfactory.

[0014] The effectiveness of a composition in terms of sun protection requires ensuring a stable and homogeneous suspension of all the solid particles it contains in order to prevent any agglomeration of said particles. This objective must not be achieved at the expense of: - nor the desired fluidity of the compositions, which must have a sufficiently fluid texture to be compatible with application by users' fingers, and therefore have easy spreading, - nor of their sensory properties.

[0015] The present inventors have discovered that the addition of unmodified smectite, in a specific quantity, to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing 1 to 5% by weight of phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, and pigments, makes it possible, regardless of the quantity of these pigments in the composition, and including for quantities greater than 2% by weight (and remaining less than or equal to 5% by weight) relative to the total weight of the composition, to obtain the various desired benefits in terms of: - stability of the composition and homogeneity of the suspension of the particulate charges contained therein, - sensory experience / fluidity / coverage (the degree of coverage provided by the composition being linked to the quantity of pigments present in the composition), - and sun protection factor (SPF, for Sun Protection Factor).

[0016] DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0017] Thus, according to a first aspect of the invention, a tinted sun protection cosmetic composition is proposed, presented in the form of an emulsion, suitable for topical application to the skin, said composition comprising, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: - 30 to 50% water, - 1 to 5% of the particulate sun filter phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, - at least one emulsifier, - at least one oily emollient, - at least one pigment, in particular of mineral origin, the total content of pigments in the composition being between 1 and 5%, preferably between 2 and 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - and a suspending agent selected from unmodified smectites, the total quantity of suspending agent(s) selected from unmodified smectites in the composition being between 0.3 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] By "photoprotective system", for the purposes of the present invention, means an association of compounds which, after application to a surface (skin, hair, etc.), by mechanisms of absorption and / or reflection and / or diffusion of UVA and / or UVB radiation and / or blue light, prevents, or at least limits, the contact of said radiation with said surface.

[0019] The term “sunscreen” refers to a substance capable of filtering solar radiation to protect a surface, typically the skin or hair, against the harmful effects of this radiation.

[0020] The term “ultraviolet radiation” or “UV radiation”, commonly abbreviated “UV”, refers to solar ultraviolet radiation but also to artificial ultraviolet radiation, generated by tanning lamps for example.

[0021] By "UVA radiation" or simply "UVA", we mean ultraviolet rays having an X wavelength between 320 and 400 nm.

[0022] By "UVB radiation" or simply "UVB", we mean ultraviolet rays having an X wavelength between 290 and 320 nm.

[0023] A sunscreen is described as a "UVA filter" or "UVB filter" depending on whether it filters mostly UVA or UVB.

[0024] A sun filter called “broadband” or “broad spectrum” filters both UVA and UVB rays.

[0025] Depending on the radiation filtration mechanism, that is, depending on whether the radiation is absorbed and / or reflected, or even diffused by the solar filter, we can strictly distinguish: - filters in the strict sense, which mostly absorb radiation, and - screens, which absorb and reflect radiation.

[0026] However, in the rest of the description, the term “sun filter”, sometimes abbreviated “filter”, will be used interchangeably to refer to a filter or a screen.

[0027] A sunscreen filter can be "lipid-soluble" or "water-soluble," depending on whether it dissolves more readily in lipids or in water, or even "insoluble." An insoluble sunscreen filter is typically in particulate form and can nevertheless be incorporated into a sun protection composition, particularly in a dispersed form, especially a water-dispersed form when dispersed in an aqueous phase.

[0028] In this description, "sun protection" is further understood to mean protection against the effects of ultraviolet radiation, in particular UVA and / or UVB, and / or blue light. The term "sun protection," as used in this description, encompasses not only protection against the harmful effects of solar radiation, but also against artificial ultraviolet radiation, generated, for example, by tanning lamps. More specifically, the Sun protection is understood here as preventing, or at least limiting, the contact of ultraviolet radiation and / or blue light with the surface to be protected, by mechanisms of absorption and / or reflection and / or diffusion of UVA and / or UVB radiation and / or blue light.

[0029] Phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, the name commonly used to designate 5,6,5',6'-tetraphenyl-3,3'-(l,4-phenylene)-bis[l,2,4]triazine, (CAS No. 55514-22-2) is a sunscreen, more specifically an ultra-broad-spectrum sunscreen capable of filtering the harmful part of the solar spectrum, which includes UV radiation (UVB and UVA), but also high-energy blue visible light. In the remainder of this description, the names 5,6,5',6'-tetraphenyl-3,3'-(l,4-phenylene)-bis[l,2,4]triazine and phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine are used interchangeably.

[0030] Phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine is an organic particulate filter of the non-soluble, water-dispersible type.

[0031] This filter typically takes the form of an aqueous dispersion, comprising between 20% and 50%, and in particular between 40% and 50%, by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the dispersion. Advantageously, the process for preparing such an aqueous dispersion consists of grinding the organic filter into particles using a grinding apparatus and in the presence of a grinding aid. Conventionally, wet grinding processes such as wet grinding or wet mixing, well known to those skilled in the art, are used for this purpose. The grinding apparatus may be, for example, a micro-bead mill, a vibrating mill, or a ball mill. Depending on the grinding process, the grinding aid is chosen from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, or amphoteric surfactants, emulsifiers, and dispersants.As an example of such a grinding aid, one can cite the dispersant PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether (Eumulgin® L, marketed by BASF), which was used to prepare the aqueous dispersion that was the subject of the final opinion SCCS / 1594 / 18 of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). In this aqueous dispersion comprising between 45 and 55% by weight of water: . - Phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine is between 40 and 50% - PPG-l-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether is present at approximately 4.5%, with the % being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

[0032] In particular embodiments of the invention, the D50 size of the bis-diphenyltriazine phenylene particles contained in the composition according to the invention is between 100 and 1000 nm, more particularly between 100 and 500 nm, even more particularly between 120 and 400 nm, especially between 120 and 250 nm, particularly between 120 and 200 nm, typically between 150 and 200 nm.

[0033] The term "D50 size" or "median size" refers to the size for which the cumulative particle size distribution function is equal to 50%. The D50 size value can be determined using a Mastersizer 3000 liquid-mode laser diffraction particle size analyzer.

[0034] Phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine represents between 1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular embodiments of the invention, it represents between 2% and 5%, in particular between 2% and 4%, preferably between 3% and 4%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] It is understood that these mass percentages, as well as all those indicated in this description, are expressed as a percentage of the mass of active material relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0036] In the composition according to the present invention, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine can be associated with one or more additional sun filters, to constitute a photoprotective system which, after application to a surface (skin, hair, etc.), by mechanisms of absorption and / or reflection and / or diffusion of UVA and / or UVB radiation, prevents, or at least limits, the contact of said radiation with said surface.

[0037] Such additional solar filters are preferably chosen, and introduced into the composition in adequate quantity, so that the composition according to the invention has a sun protection factor (SPF) between 20 and 99, preferably between 30 and 80 and more preferably between 50 and 80.

[0038] The total SPF of the composition is evaluated in a conventional manner for wavelengths between 290 and 400 nm. Its value can be determined according to the method recommended by COLIPA (European Federation of Perfumery Industries), in its guidelines published in March 2011.

[0039] In particular embodiments of the invention, the SPF of the composition is greater than or equal to 50, advantageously greater than or equal to 60.

[0040] In other specific embodiments, the SPF / UVA ratio is less than or equal to 3, in accordance with applicable regulations. The denominator of said ratio corresponds to the UVA portion (320 to 400 nm) of the total SPF and can be calculated according to the method recommended by COLIPA (European Federation of Perfumery Industries) in its guidelines published in March 2011. Advantageously, the SPF / UVA ratio of the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 2.5.

[0041] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total quantity of additional sun filters contained in the composition is between 3 and 19% by weight, preferably between 5 and 17% by weight, in particular between 7 and 15% by weight, and typically between 8 and 15% by weight, for example between 10 and 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises at least one additional solar filter.

[0043] At least one additional sunscreen may be chosen from among those classically known, including organic sunscreens such as triazine derivatives, benzotriazole and phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, amino-substituted benzophenone and 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, me-rocyanine derivatives, para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, [3,[3'-diphenylacrylate] derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, anthranilic derivatives, imidazoline derivatives, and benzylmalonate derivatives.

[0044] Preferably, at least one additional sunscreen is chosen from triazine derivatives, benzotriazole and phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, amino-substituted benzophenone and 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, and merocyanine derivatives.

[0045] In particular advantageous embodiments of the invention, the tinted cosmetic composition does not, however, comprise ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3, and / or benzophenone-4. Octocrylene, like ethylhexyl salicylate, is suspected of being a potential endocrine disruptor. Other sunscreens present in many commercial products are also subject to controversy due to their potentially harmful effects on the user or the environment.Examples include derivatives of cinnamate (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxylcinnamate), homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA, octyl dimethyl PABA), camphor (3-methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor), and benzophenone (benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4). The use of such compounds is therefore undesirable.

[0046] Thus, in particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises at least one additional sunscreen, excluding ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3 and / or benzophenone-4.

[0047] The composition according to the invention preferably contains, as an additional solar filter, at least one liposoluble organic solar filter.

[0048] Thus, in preferred embodiments of the invention, the tinted cosmetic composition comprises the phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine sunscreen / UV filter and minus an additional sunscreen, in particular an organic, oil-soluble sunscreen, specifically chosen from: - hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (CAS No.: 302776-68-7), also called diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate or DHHB, notably as marketed by BASF under the name Uvinul® A Plus, a liposoluble UVA filter with a maximum absorption wavelength Xmax of 354 nm; - 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (CAS No.: 187393-00-6), also called bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or BEMT, notably as marketed by BASF under the name Tinosorb® S, a fat-soluble broadband filter, having two absorption peaks at 310 nm and 340 nm; - diethylhexyl butamido triazone, or DBT (chemical name: 4,4'-[[6-[[4-[[(l,l-dimethylethyl)amino]carbonyl]phenyl]amino]-l,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl ]diimino]bis-, bis(2-ethylhexyl)benzoate; CAS No.: 154702-15-5), notably as marketed by 3V Sigma under the name Uvasorb® HE, a liposoluble UVB filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength Xmax of 310 nm; - ethylhexyl triazone or EHT (chemical name: acid 4- [ [4,6-bis [[4-(2-ethylhexoxy-oxomethyl)phenyl] amino] -1,3,5-triazin-2-yl] amino]benzoic 2-ethylhexyl ester; CAS No.: 88122-99-00), notably as marketed by BASF under the name Uvinul® T 150, a liposoluble UVB filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength Xmax of 314 nm; - and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, or 4-tert-butyl-4-methoxydibenzoylmethane (chemical name: 1,4-(1,l-dimethylethyl)phenyl-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-l,3-propanedione; CAS No.: 70356-09-1), also known as avobenzone or BMDBM, notably as marketed by DSM under the name Parsol® 1789, a liposoluble UVA filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength Xmax of 357 nm; - or any of their mixtures.

[0049] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the tinted cosmetic composition comprises the UV filter phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine and at least one oil-soluble sunscreen selected from: - hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate; -there 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine; - diethylhexyl butamido triazone; - and ethylhexyl triazone; or one of their mixtures.

[0050] In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises the filters the following additional sunscreens, preferably to the exclusion of any others (except for phenylene bis-diphenyltrazine, which is always present in the composition according to the invention): - diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, - bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and - ethylhexyl triazone or diethylhexyl butamido triazone

[0051] A number of sunscreens are not sufficiently photostable, meaning they tend to degrade upon prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, and therefore no longer adequately protect the user. It is particularly well known that the butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane molecule, a widely used UVA filter in commercial sunscreens, cleaves into various chemical constituents lacking absorbing capacity when subjected to UV irradiation, unless it is combined with other compounds to improve its photostability. Therefore, preferably, the tinted cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

[0052] In particular embodiments of the invention, the tinted cosmetic composition does not comprise any water-soluble sunscreen. Alternatively, it may contain at least one water-soluble organic sunscreen, such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.

[0053] In particular embodiments of the invention, the tinted cosmetic composition further comprises at least one particulate organic sunscreen, in particular selected from the following filters: - methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (chemical name: 2,2'-methylene-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-( 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol; CAS No.: 103597-45-1), also known as MBBT, notably as marketed by BASF under the name Tinosorb® M; - and 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-l,3,5-triazine (CAS No.: 31274-51-8), also known as trisbiphenyl triazine or TBPT, notably as marketed by BASF under the name Tinosorb® A2B; or it contains one of their mixtures.

[0054] In other particular embodiments, the composition according to the invention is devoid of such particulate organic solar filters.

[0055] At least one additional solar filter can be chosen from those conventionally known, including inorganic solar filters such as coated or uncoated metal oxides, like titanium, iron, zinc, zirconium, or cerium oxides. These inorganic filters are insoluble and are in particulate form.

[0056] In other particular embodiments, the composition according to the invention is devoid of such inorganic solar filters.

[0057] It is important to distinguish between titanium dioxide as used as a sunscreen / UV filter and titanium dioxide in its pigment form. Titanium dioxide can indeed take several different forms, which have different properties. The main difference between titanium dioxide UV filter and titanium dioxide pigment is the particle size, the pigment being significantly larger than the UV filter.

[0058] Nanoscale titanium dioxide, smaller than 200 nm, which should be considered synonymous with "titanium dioxide UV filter," is present in the majority of physical sunscreens due to its high UV absorption capacity and resistance to discoloration under ultraviolet light. This advantage enhances its stability and its ability to protect the skin from UV radiation. Nanoscale titanium dioxide particles are primarily used in sunscreen compositions because they scatter visible light much less than titanium dioxide pigments and can provide UV protection.

[0059] Titanium dioxide pigment, with a size greater than 200 nm, is the most widely used white pigment due to its brilliance and very high refractive index, surpassed by only a few other materials. The crystalline size of titanium dioxide pigment can even reach a micrometric scale, such as approximately 7000 nm (measured by electron microscopy), to optimize maximum reflection of visible light. Titanium dioxide pigment is also an effective opacifier in powder form, where it is used to provide whiteness and opacity to products such as paints, plastics, food, pharmaceuticals, and most toothpastes. Titanium dioxide pigment is capable of scattering light, making it highly useful as a pigment.

[0060] More generally, in this description, "pigments" means mineral or organic particles, natural or synthetic, coated or uncoated, insoluble, and coloring. As indicated above, titanium dioxide with a particle size greater than 200 nm is included in the definition of pigments. Pigments are generally in powder form or pre-dispersed in an aqueous or oily solution.

[0061] The pigment(s) used in the composition according to the invention give the latter its tint and contribute to its covering power, that is to say its ability to cover and mask imperfections in the area of ​​skin on which it is applied.

[0062] This pigment or these pigments are preferably, but not exclusively, of mineral type.

[0063] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition according The invention contains one or more pigments, particularly mineral pigments, preferably selected from iron oxides and titanium dioxide, or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains a mixture of pigments, this mixture comprising, and preferably consisting of, yellow, red, and black iron oxides, and titanium dioxide. Such a mixture of pigments alone makes it highly advantageous to adapt to a wide range of skin tones by appropriately selecting their respective proportions.

[0064] In preferred embodiments, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any pigment other than iron oxides and titanium dioxide. In particular, the composition according to the invention is preferably free of natural or synthetic mica (fluorphlogopite).

[0065] Mineral pigments are referenced by a color index (CI, for Colour Index) in the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) nomenclature, the main pigments used in cosmetics / makeup being the following: - CI 77891 White (Titanium Dioxide) - CI 77491 Red (Iron Trioxide) - CI 77492 Yellow (Iron Oxide) - CI 77499 Black (Iron Tetraoxide) - CI 77007 Blue (Lazurite) - CI 77742 Violet (Manganese Violet) - CI 77510 Prussian Blue (ferric ferrocyanide) - CI 77163 White (Bismuth Oxychloride) - CI 77288 Green (Dichromium trioxide) - CI 77000 White (Aluminium) - CI 77289 Green (Green Chromium Hydroxide) - CI 77400 Brown (Bronze) - CI 77120 White (Barium Sulfate) - CI 77820 White (Silver) - CI 77002 White (Aluminum Hydroxide) - CI 77947 White (Zinc Oxide) - CI 77480 Brown Yellow (Gold) - CI 77713 White (Magnesium carbonate) - CI 77489 Orange (Iron oxide) - CI 77019 (White Mica).

[0066] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises at least one, preferably several, and preferably all, of the four mineral pigments CI77491, CI77492, CI77499, and CI77891. Preferably, these four pigments are the only pigments contained in the composition according to the invention.

[0067] The total pigment content in the composition is between 1 and 5%, preferably between 2 and 5%, even more preferably between 2 and 4%, more preferably between 2 and 3%, and even more preferably about 2.5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] The quantity of titanium dioxide pigment (or CI 77891) preferably represents at least 50%, more preferably at least 75%, by weight of the total weight of pigments contained in the composition.

[0069] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has, at the end of its preparation process, a fixed tint, which does not change when applied to the skin.

[0070] It is also presented, as indicated above, in the form of a stable suspension of the particulate matter which enters into its constitution, including when the total content of pigment(s) is as high as 2% by weight, this content being able to go up to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] A stable suspension, in a conventional sense, is defined as one in which the particles contained do not settle or aggregate. Thus, in the composition according to the invention, virtually no settling of the insoluble particles contained therein is observed, even over long periods, particularly over a period as long as the overall shelf life of the composition, which is more than 6 months, preferably more than 12 months, preferably more than 18 months, and preferably 36 months. The stability and homogeneity of the composition can be verified, in particular, by visual inspection or by a centrifugation test.

[0072] The composition according to the invention also exhibits good viscosity, without the need for any additional thickening ingredients. In this description, "good viscosity" means a viscosity that allows the composition to be dispensed from various packaging options, including tubes and pump bottles, and prevents it from slipping out of the user's hands during dispensing. The cosmetic sunscreen composition of the present invention is thus advantageously stable, with the desired viscosity, appearance, color, microscopic properties, and pH range.

[0073] In particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition has a dynamic viscosity at 25°C + / - 2°C less than or equal to 10,000 mPa·s, preferably between 700 and 10,000 mPa·s, more preferably between 700 and 5,000 mPa·s, and for example between 1,500 and 4,000 mPa·s. This viscosity can, for example, be measured using a Brookfield viscometer by applying the following parameters: spindle 5, speed 100 rpm, for 1 minute.

[0074] The composition according to the invention contains, as a suspending agent, one or more unmodified smectites. It preferably contains a single unmodified smectite.

[0075] Smectites are clays of the class of natural phyllosilicates occurring mainly as lamellar, spongy, or spherical aggregates, characterized by a layered structure in which a central layer of octahedrally coordinated cations is sandwiched between two layers of [(Si,Al)O4] tetrahedra. There are numerous clay compounds / materials belonging to the smectite class. In particular, beidellite and montmorillonite can be mentioned in this regard within the dioctahedral smectite class, and hectorite, saponite, etc., within the trioctahedral smectite class. Bentonite, essentially composed of montmorillonite, is also considered, according to the present invention, to belong to the smectite family.

[0076] As explained above, the present inventors have discovered that, quite surprisingly, the presence of smectite in a cosmetic emulsion composition at a weight content of 0.3 to 2% allows particulate pigments to be kept in stable suspension up to a weight of 5% relative to the total weight of the composition, even when the composition contains the particulate sunscreen phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine at a weight of between 1 and 5%, and, where applicable, other particulate sunscreens insoluble in the vehicle of the composition. This advantageous result is not obtained at the expense of the composition's fluidity and sensory properties, nor at the expense of its sun protection efficacy.It also allows for the stable formation of tinted sunscreen cosmetic compositions containing a sufficient quantity of pigments to cover a wide range of shades, adapting to all existing user skin tones.

[0077] This advantageous result is, equally surprisingly, not obtained when smectite is modified, for example so as to increase its lipophilic character, by reaction with quaternary ammoniums, such as stearalkonium chloride or quatemium-18.

[0078] Preferably, the unmodified smectite(s) constitute substantially the only suspending agents contained in the composition according to the invention.

[0079] Preferably, an unmodified smectite contained in the composition according to the invention as a suspending agent is hectorite or bentonite. For convenience, the terms "hectorite" and "bentonite," when used alone in this description (i.e., without mention of any grouping by modifying the formula), specifically designate, respectively, unmodified hectorite and bentonite. unmodified bentonite.

[0080] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises, as a suspending agent, either solely unmodified hectorite or solely unmodified bentonite.

[0081] The total quantity of suspending agent(s) chosen from the unmodified smectites in the composition according to the invention is preferably between 0.3 and 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.3 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] When the composition according to the invention contains hectorite as a suspending agent, the concentration of hectorite is preferably between 0.3 and 0.8% by weight, preferably between 0.3 and 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] When the composition according to the invention contains bentonite as a suspending agent, the concentration of bentonite is preferably between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.8 and 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] In particular embodiments of the invention, the mass ratio between the suspending agent(s) and the pigment(s) contained in the composition is between 0.08 and 0.6, preferably between 0.1 and 0.4.

[0085] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion, that is to say, it comprises an oily phase kept dispersed homogeneously, in the form of fine droplets, in an aqueous phase, by the emulsifier(s) contained in the composition.

[0086] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, 30 to 50% water, preferably 35 to 50% water, or 30 to 45% water, even more preferably 35 to 45% water, or even 40 to 50% water, and even more preferably 40 to 45% water.

[0087] The composition according to the invention may contain a single oily emollient, or a plurality of oily emollients.

[0088] In the present description, the term oily emollient means an ingredient present in the oily phase, and which gives the composition according to the invention good sensoriality and good ability to soften the epidermis.

[0089] Preferably, the oily emollient(s) contained in the composition according to the invention are in liquid form, in particular at any temperature between 5°C and ambient temperature (between 20°C and 25°C).

[0090] Oily emollients typically comprise one or more polar chemical functions among the ester (-CO2-), alcohol (-OH), ether (-O-), carbonate (-OCO2-) and carboxylic acid (-CO2H) functions, and one or more li- groups philic, that is to say one or more aliphatic and / or aromatic hydrocarbon groups, in particular one or more saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chains, linear or branched, comprising between 6 and 20 carbon atoms, for example between 7 and 18 carbon atoms, in particular between 8 and 16 carbon atoms, a phenyl group (-C6H5) and / or a phenylalkyl group.

[0091] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one oily emollient selected from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, dicaprylyl carbonate, coco-caprylate, coco-caprylate / caprate, diisopropyl sebacate, diethylhexyl succinate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, pro-pylheptyl caprylate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isonanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylhexyl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, octyldodecanol, and propylene glycol. dicaprylate / dicaprate and dicaprylyl ether, or any mixture thereof.

[0092] In particular embodiments of the invention, the oily emollient(s) contained in the composition according to the invention are liquid lipophilic emollients, capable of totally solubilizing the liposoluble sunscreen(s) possibly present in the composition, and are preferably chosen from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl adipate, coco-caprylate caprate, diisopropyl sebacate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylhexyl succinate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isonanoate and cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate.

[0093] In particular embodiments of the invention, the oily emollient(s) are present in the composition in a total content of between 10 and 40% by weight, preferably between 15 and 40% by weight, even more preferably between 15 and 35% by weight, or even between 20 and 35% by weight, in particular between 20 and 30% by weight, for example between 20 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] In particular embodiments of the invention, the C12-C15 alkyl benzoate represents between 30 and 100% by weight of the total weight of the oily emollients contained in the composition.

[0095] In particular embodiments of the invention, dicaprylyl carbonate represents between 30 and 100% by weight of the total weight of the oily emollients contained in the composition.

[0096] In particular embodiments of the invention, diisopropyl adipate represents between 10 and 100%, preferably 10 and 50%, by weight of the total weight of oily emollients contained in the composition.

[0097] In particular embodiments of the invention, the triglycerides ca- propyl / capric represent less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, of the total weight of oily emollients contained in the composition.

[0098] The cosmetic composition according to the invention does not contain humectant(s), or contains at most 5% by weight, for example between 0.01 and 5% by weight, preferably at most 4% by weight, for example between 0.01 and 4% by weight, of total humectant(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] For the purposes of this description, the term humectant means a polyol. A "polyol" (also called a polyalcohol) is defined here, in a classical manner, as a compound comprising a hydrocarbon chain with at least two carbon atoms and comprising at least two hydroxyl groups.

[0100] The polyol(s) that may be contained in the composition according to the invention may be natural or synthetic. They may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0101] In particular embodiments in which the composition according to the invention contains at least one humectant, this may be chosen from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycols and their derivatives. At least one humectant, preferably each of the humectants contained in the composition according to the invention, is preferably selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, octane 1,2-diol, polyethylene glycols, in particular having 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, but also erythritol, threitol, arabitol, xylitol, ribitol, mannitol, sorbitol, galactitol, fucitol, iditol, inositol, volemitol, isomalt, maltitol, lactitol, maltotriitol, the maltotetrol, and polyglycitol.

[0102] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition thus contains at least one humectant, preferably at least glycerin, preferably in an amount less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains less than 3% by weight of humectant(s) in total, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains less than 2% by weight of humectant(s) in total, more preferably less than 1.5% by weight of humectant(s), and even more preferably less than 1% by weight of humectant(s) in total, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more emulsifiers, advantageously chosen from emulsifying agents capable of forming oil-in-water emulsions. The emulsifying agent(s) may, for example, be chosen from ethoxylated fatty alcohols, products marketed under the following names: nominations Montanov® 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside) and Montanov® 82 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Coco-Glucoside), potassium cetyl phosphate, glucoside waxes, glyceryl stearate citrate, lauryl glucoside and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, including the product marketed under the name Eumulgin® VL 75, lecithins, including hydrogenated soy lecithin, glyceryl monostearate, sorbitan monostearate, sodium dilaura-midoglutamide lysine, sodium stearoyl glutamate, including the product marketed under the name Eumulgin® SG, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sucrose stearate, etc.

[0105] In particular embodiments of the invention, the emulsifier(s) are present in the composition at a total content of 2 to 12% by weight, preferably 2 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, even more preferably 3 to 8% by weight, or 2 to 6% by weight, in particular 2 to 5% by weight, for example 3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such contents advantageously provide good stability of the emulsion and good sensory qualities of the composition.

[0106] The composition according to the invention may further contain one or more cosmetically active agents for skin care and / or hygiene, such as tocopheryl glucoside, zinc gluconate, Lens esculenta seed extracts.

[0107] The composition according to the invention may further include one or more cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable excipient(s).

[0108] In the present invention, "cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable" means what is useful in the preparation, preservation or administration of a cosmetic or dermatological composition that is generally safe, non-toxic and neither biologically nor otherwise undesirable, and that is acceptable for human cosmetic or dermatological use.

[0109] The composition according to the invention may thus include excipients in particular selected from consistency factors, texturizing agents, water-retaining agents, gelling agents, opacifiers, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, sequestrants, bactericides, odor absorbers, alkalizing or acidifying agents, or any other ingredient usually used for the manufacture of sun compositions.

[0110] The composition according to the invention may thus include, in particular, one or more texturizing agents which may also be described as mattifying agents or oil-absorbing agents, preferably in powder form. Such texturizing agents may in particular be chosen from ingredients in the starch family, such as rice, corn, and tapioca starches, talcs, and cellulose and its derivatives, in particular microcrystalline cellulose.

[0111] In particular embodiments of the invention, the texturizing agent(s) represent(s) between 1 and 15% by weight, preferably between 1% and 10% by weight, preferably again between 2% and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition does not include a texturizing agent selected from nylon derivatives and polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA).

[0113] The composition according to the invention is preferably free of silica, silica being relatively controversial for an application in the cosmetic field, in particular because of the negative environmental impact linked to its production.

[0114] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more consistency factors.

[0115] This or these consistency factors are then preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, hydrogenated vegetable oils and other waxy substances. Glyceryl behenate or glyceryl laurate may be cited as examples.

[0116] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains only one consistency factor, or no consistency factor.

[0117] The total content of consistency factor(s) in the composition is preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, for example less than or equal to 4% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] The cosmetic composition according to the invention does not contain any gelling agent, or contains a maximum of 1% by weight of gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus, in particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is devoid of gelling agent, or it comprises from 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 0.8% by weight, and preferably from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, of gelling agent(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] At least one gelling agent, preferably each of the gelling agents contained in the composition according to the invention, is preferably chosen from xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, carrageenans, gellan gum, diutan gum, and Caesalpinia spinosa gum, or any mixture thereof.

[0120] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more water-resistant agent(s), in particular selected from an N-vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and eicosene copolymer (INCI name: VP / eicosen copolymer), a trimethylpentanediol, adipic acid and glycerol crosspolymer (INCI name: trime-thylpentanediol / adipic acid / glycerin crosspolymer), polyamide 3 (INCI), a co acrylate and octylacrylamide polymer (INCI name: acrylates / octylacrylamide copolymer), and triacontanyl PVP (INCI).

[0121] In particular embodiments of the invention, the water-retaining agent(s) represent(s) in total between 0% and 2%, preferably between 0.01% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises trimethylpentanediol / adipic acid / glycerin crosspolymer (INCI name) as a water-resistant agent.

[0123] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition is free of volatile silicones (also called volatile silicone oils).

[0124] Volatile silicones are short-chain cyclic polymers with the general formula [Si-(CH3)2-O]n, where n=3-7. Generally called cyclomethicone, regardless of the number of repeating units, the most common are cyclotetrasiloxane (n=4) and cyclopentasiloxane (n=5), but cyclotrisiloxane (n=3), cyclohexasiloxane (n=6), and cycloheptasiloxane (n=7) are also examples. Volatile silicones are known to accumulate in the environment and are not biodegradable due to their high stability. Studies have shown that cyclopentasiloxane, for example, has a potential for bioaccumulation in aquatic environments (Gobas et al., 2015, Environmental Toxicology and Chemistry, 34, 12:2703-2714).

[0125] More generally, the composition according to the invention is preferably free of volatile ingredients. By "volatile ingredients", for the purposes of the present invention, we mean non-alcoholic organic or inorganic compounds such as esters, silicones or alkanes, characterized by a flash point below 60°C.

[0126] The term "flash point" (denoted PE) is conventionally understood to mean the minimum temperature at which a combustible substance emits vapors in a concentration sufficient to form a gaseous mixture with the surrounding air that ignites upon contact with a flame or a hot spot, but insufficient for combustion to propagate spontaneously in the absence of a pilot flame. According to Regulation (EC) No 1272 / 2008 on the classification, labelling and packaging of substances and mixtures, a substance with a PE such that 23°C < PE < 60°C belongs to category 3 "low flammability".

[0127] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is in particular preferably devoid of volatile esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and / or volatile alkanes, such as isohexadecane.

[0128] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more monoalcohols. However, it is preferably free of monoalcohols.

[0129] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is further devoid of essential oils. Indeed, most essential oils contain allergens, a source of irritation and skin intolerance. The colorants exhibiting the The same characteristics are preferably also avoided for similar reasons.

[0130] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is devoid of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA). Alternatively, it may contain such an acid.

[0131] In particular embodiments of the invention, the tinted cosmetic composition is free of microplastics.

[0132] The term “microplastic” in the context of the present invention refers to microparticles of synthetic polymers, and refers to the definition given in the draft amendment to Annex XVII of Regulation (EC) No 1907 / 2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) as regards synthetic polymer microparticles, accessible in particular at the following address: https: / / ec.europa.eu / transparency / comitology-register / screen / documents / 083921 / l / consult?lang=en).According to this document, microplastics, or microparticles of synthetic polymers, are defined as polymers that are solid and that either are contained within particles and constitute at least 1% by weight of these particles, or form a continuous surface coating on particles, when at least 1% by weight of these particles fulfill one of the following conditions: (a) all dimensions of the particles are less than or equal to 5 mm; (b) the length of the particles is less than or equal to 15 mm and their length-to-diameter ratio is greater than 3. The following polymers are excluded from this designation: . (a) polymers resulting from a polymerization process that has occurred in nature, which are not chemically modified substances; (b) polymers that are degradable as proven in accordance with Annex [X] of the document; (c) polymers which have a solubility greater than 2 g / L as proven in accordance with Annex [Y] of the document (water solubility test at pH 7 under stirring for 24 h at 20°C, with a polymer loading of 10 g / 1000 mL, according to the protocol of Test No. 120 or Test No. 105 of the OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals); (d) polymers that do not contain carbon atoms in their chemical structure. Synthetic polymer microparticles covered by the derogation provided for in point 4a of the said draft amendment to Annex XVII are also excluded from this definition.

[0133] More generally, microplastics can be defined as particles, all of whose dimensions are less than 5 mm, formed or coated with solid synthetic organic polymer(s) insoluble in water and non-biodegradable.

[0134] Thus, in particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably free of microplastic polyquaterniums, ingredients used in many cosmetic compositions proposed by the prior art.

[0135] It is also preferably free of microplastic acrylates.

[0136] On the other hand, in particular embodiments of the invention, the com The cosmetic formulation may include one or more non-microplastic acrylates, in particular chosen from the group consisting of (INCI names): - Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, - Acrylates / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, - Sodium Polyacrylate, - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, - Acrylates Copolymer, - Polyacrylate-13, - Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, - Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, - Polyacrylamide, - VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, used alone or in any of their mixtures.

[0137] The composition according to the invention can be in any conventional form, this form being suitable for topical application to the skin and / or hair. It can, in particular, but not limited to, be in the form of a fluid emulsion, a rich emulsion, a cream, a milk, or a lotion.

[0138] Throughout this description, the term "skin" includes both the skin itself and mucous membranes, particularly the lips. The term "cutaneous" includes both what relates to the skin and what relates to mucous membranes.

[0139] The composition according to the invention may be intended to be applied to the skin of the face and / or body, and / or to the hair. It may, for example, be in the form of a protective, treatment or care cream or balm for the face, hands and / or body, or a protective, treatment or care body lotion.

[0140] Another aspect of the invention relates to a method for preparing a composition according to the invention, as described above, particularly in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. This method comprises the following steps: - preparation of the oil phase: prior solubilization, where appropriate, of liposoluble filter(s) in the oily emollient(s) at a temperature between 70°C and 85°C, typically at 80°C, under agitation, preferably under mechanical agitation; then addition of the other constituent ingredients of the oil phase of the emulsion - such as the pigment(s) - to the mixture obtained previously, at a temperature between 70°C and 85°C, typically at 80°C, under agitation, preferably under mechanical agitation; - preparation of the aqueous phase: prior dispersion of the phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine and where applicable of the other particulate organic filter(s) in water, at a temperature between 50°C and 75°C, typically at 60°C, under agitation, preferably under mechanical agitation; then addition of the other constituent ingredients of the aqueous phase of the emulsion to the mixture obtained previously, at a temperature between 50°C and 75°C, typically at 60°C, under agitation, preferably under mechanical agitation; - addition of a suspending agent chosen from unmodified smectites in at least one of said aqueous phase and of said oily phase, and preferably in said aqueous phase; - addition of emulsifier(s) in at least one of said aqueous phase and of said oily phase; - introduction of the previously obtained oily phase into the previously obtained aqueous phase, under agitation, preferably under mechanical agitation, until a homogeneous solution is obtained; - cooling the emulsion thus obtained to room temperature; and - optionally, adding perfume, active agent(s) and / or texturizing agent(s) in powder form(s), under agitation, preferably under mechanical agitation.

[0141] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is in particular intended to be applied topically to any area of ​​skin of a subject likely to be exposed to solar radiation or artificial ultraviolet radiation, in particular an area of ​​skin on the face or body of the subject.

[0142] Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for the sun protection of the skin and / or hair of a subject, this use including the topical application of the composition to said skin and / or hair. The subject may be a mammal, in particular a human.

[0143] The composition according to the invention can, for example, be applied topically to an area of ​​skin of the subject concerned, such as the skin of the face, including the lips, or of the body, in an effective quantity, as often as necessary before or during exposure to solar radiation.

[0144] The invention is also expressed in terms of a therapeutic method for the sun protection of an area of ​​skin of a subject, in particular a human, this method comprising the topical application, on this area of ​​skin, of an effective quantity of a composition according to the invention.

[0145] This process can meet one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the use of the composition according to the invention for sun protection of the skin and / or hair.

[0146] The present invention also relates to a method for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of an area of ​​skin and / or hair of a subject, in particular a human, for the sun protection of this area of ​​skin and / or hair, by topical application, on this area of ​​skin and / or hair, of an effective amount of a composition according to the invention.

[0147] Here again, this process can meet one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the use of the composition according to the invention for sun protection of the skin and / or hair.

[0148] Another object of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for sun protection of an area of ​​skin and / or hair of a subject, in particular a human. This use includes the topical application of this composition to this area of ​​skin and / or hair. It may have one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the use of the composition according to the invention for sun protection of the skin and / or hair.

[0149] The features and advantages of the invention will become more apparent in the light of the following implementation examples, provided by way of illustration only and in no way limiting the invention, with the support of [Fig. 1], in which:

[0150] [Fig.1] Fig.1 represents a graph showing the proportion of the total surface area (average in pixels) occupied by heterogeneous areas on a skin area of ​​interest of a subject, determined by a skin analysis system by imaging coupled to a color tracking image analysis module, respectively at an initial time (T0), then 10 to 30 minutes after the application on the skin area of ​​interest of a cosmetic composition according to the invention (Timm).

[0151] 1 / Example 1 - General formula of the compositions tested

[0152] The compositions tested, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, correspond to the general formula presented in Table 1 below.

[0153] [Tables 1] Ingredients Quantity (% w / w) Water 30-50 Phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine as aqueous dispersion: Phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine 3.5 PPG-1 PPG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether 0.3 Additional UV Filters: Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine Ethylhexyl Triazone Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 8-15 Oily Emollients: C12-C15 alkyl benzoate Dicaprylyl carbonate Diisopropyl adipate C9-C12 alkane & Coco-caprylate caprate 20-25 Emulsifiers: Cetyl potassium phosphate Lauryl Glucoside Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 2-8 Active Agents: Tocopheryl glucoside 0.2 Zinc gluconate 0.1 Excipients: Trimethylpentanediol / Adipic Acid / Glycerin Crosspolymer 1 Starches 2-6 Preservative qs Suspensive Agent X Pigment(s): CI77491 CI77492 CI77499 CI77891 Y

[0154] Table 1 - General formula of the compositions tested

[0155] 2 / Example 2 - Objectification of the technical problem

[0156] Two compositions not conforming to the invention are tested to evaluate their stability, focusing on visual appearance, a centrifugation test, and a stability study. Viscosities are also measured. Finally, a microscopic analysis of the formulations is performed.

[0157] The different test protocols carried out are as follows.

[0158] Fluidity Viscosity measures the resistance of a fluid. This analysis helps determine how fluid or viscous the formula is and how this property behaves throughout the stability study. Product viscosity impacts packaging selection, active ingredient release, spreading, and the consumer experience. This analysis is performed at 25°C using a Brookfield viscometer with the following parameters: spindle 5, 100 rpm, for 1 minute. Brookfield viscometers use the principle of rotational viscosity – the torque required to rotate an object, such as a spindle, in a fluid indicates the fluid's viscosity. The torque is applied via a calibrated spring to a disk or shaft immersed in the fluid being tested, and the spring's deflection measures the viscous drag of the fluid against the shaft.

[0159] Emulsion stability by centrifugation The centrifugation test is performed on a fresh sample of the formulation. This sample is subjected to high-speed rotation for a specific period, in this case 4000 rpm for 20 minutes. The objective is to stress the formula and anticipate potential instabilities without having to wait too long for the stability study to conclude. The dispersed phase of an oil-in-water emulsion tends to separate and rise to the top of the emulsion, forming a layer of oil droplets. This phenomenon is called creaming. It is one of the first signs of emulsion instability.

[0160] Homogeneity The visual aspect allows us to appreciate the homogeneity of the composition. This test is carried out by the same person, trained in this type of exercise. A microscopic evaluation of the composition's microstructure is performed to check for signs of future instability. Generally, a good emulsion profile is sought, i.e., fine, rounded oil droplets of uniform size, homogeneously dispersed in the continuous phase, a cohesive edge, and therefore no signs of large, undispersed particles.

[0161] The tested compositions conform to the general formula in Table 1, in which X is equal to 0 (absence of smectite). The values ​​of Y are as follows: - composition A: Y = 1.2 - composition B : Y = 2.5.

[0162] The results obtained are shown in Table 2.

[0163] [Tables2] Composition AB Viscosity (mPa.s) 2100 1809 Centrifugal stability OK KO Homogeneity: Visual appearance Conforms Non-conforms Microscopy OK Agglomerates

[0164] Table 2 - Evaluation of the stability of compositions not conforming to the invention - OK means "satisfactory", KO means "unsatisfactory"

[0165] Composition A corresponds to a tinted sunscreen composition based on phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, the concentration of which in the pigment mixture is relatively low, namely 1.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. As shown in Table 2, all tests are positive with this composition A. It is stable, fluid, and homogeneous.

[0166] Composition B is very similar to composition A; only the concentration of the same pigment mixture differs, namely 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This higher pigment concentration changes everything, since a non-homogeneous appearance is observed; the pigments and filter particles then form agglomerates when the composition is observed under a microscope.

[0167] Thus, when the concentration of pigments increases, and is greater than 1.2% by weight, the stability of the composition devoid of smectite is no longer assured.

[0168] 3 / Example 3 - Evaluation of different compositions

[0169] Two compositions according to the invention, Cl and C2, and two comparative compositions not according to the invention, D and E, all conforming to the general formula in Table 1, are tested in this example. The comparative compositions D and E contain, respectively, as a suspending agent, a modified smectite or magnesium aluminum silicate (MgAlSilicate).

[0170] The stability of these compositions is evaluated according to the protocols described in Example 2.

[0171] The results obtained, for each composition, are shown in Table 3.

[0172] [Tables3] Composition Cl C2 DEY 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Suspensive agent Hectorite Bentonite Stearalkonium hectorite Mg Al Silicate X 0.3 1 0.3 0.3 Viscosity (mPa.s) 2752 2886 2786 3490 Centrifugation stability OK OK KO KO Homogeneity: Visual appearance Conforms Conforms Non-conforming Non-conforming Microscopy OK OK Agglomerates Agglomerates

[0173] Table 3 - Evaluation of the stability of compositions according to the invention Cl and C2 and of compositions not according to the invention D and E - OK means "satisfactory", KO means "unsatisfactory"

[0174] It is observed that when the composition contains 0.3 wt% of hectorite (composition Cl) or 1 wt% of bentonite (composition C2), even with 2.5 wt% of the pigment mixture, the various stability criteria evaluated are in accordance with expectations. The compositions appear stable and homogeneous under microscopic examination.

[0175] On the other hand, in the presence of other suspending agents such as stearalkonium hectorite (provided by the product Bentone Gel® TN V), which is a modified smectite, (composition D), the stability of this formula is altered, and agglomerates form.

[0176] Similarly, in the presence of another suspending agent different from smectites, aluminum and magnesium silicate, a lack of homogeneity and stability is observed even though the viscosity was in the expected range.

[0177] This demonstrates that the choice of the suspending agent is crucial, and only unmodified smectites are suitable and allow for the stabilization of the tested compositions. 4 / Example 4 - Other comparative examples

[0178] Two comparative compositions not in accordance with the invention F and G, corresponding to the general formula of Table 1, and containing, respectively, a content of suspending agent chosen from unmodified smectites higher than that recommended by the invention, or a content of pigments higher than that recommended by the invention,

[0179] The stability of these compositions is evaluated according to the protocols described in Example 2.

[0180] The results obtained, for each composition, are shown in Table 4.

[0181] [Tables4] Composition FGY 2.5 8 Suspensive agent Hectorite Hectorite X 2.5 0.5 Viscosity (mPa.s) > 10,000 1470 Centrifuge stability NE KO Homogeneity: Visual appearance NE Non-compliant Microscopy NE Agglomerates

[0182] Table 4 - Evaluation of the stability of compositions not conforming to the invention -OK means "satisfactory", KO means "unsatisfactory" and NE means "not evaluated"

[0183] It is worth noting that an excessive amount of suspending agent (2.5% by weight in composition F) is detrimental, as it results in a much higher viscosity (> 10,000 mPa·s). Such a viscosity is unacceptable, as it affects the texture and sensory qualities of the formulations.

[0184] Similarly, it is observed that with an excessive amount of pigment (8 wt.%), even with hectorite as a suspending agent at a concentration of 0.5 wt. (composition G), the individual particles are not dispersed homogeneously. The particle loads are undoubtedly too high, and the suspension is unstable, even forming agglomerates.

[0185] The inventors thus highlight that, in the context of a tinted solar composition based on phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine and comprising at least 2% by weight of a mixture of pigments, only an unmodified smectite in adequate quantity (i.e. between 0.3 and 2% by weight) is capable of homogeneously and stably suspending this composition, without altering the desired fluidity.

[0186] 5 / Example 5 - Analysis of the coverage of a composition according to the invention

[0187] This analysis is performed using the VISIA®-CR device from Canfield (skin imaging analysis system).

[0188] The composition tested, named C3, is described in Table 5.

[0189] [Tables5] Ingredients Quantity (% w / w) Water 30-50 Phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine as aqueous dispersion: Phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine 3.5 PPG-1 PPG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether 0.3 Additional UV Filters: Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine Ethylhexyl Triazone Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 8-15 Oily Emollients: C12-C15 alkyl benzoate Dicaprylyl carbonate Diisopropyl adipate C9-C12 alkane & Coco-caprylate caprate 20-25 Emulsifiers: Cetyl potassium phosphate Lauryl Glucoside Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 2-8 Active Agents: Tocopheryl glucoside 0.2 Zinc gluconate 0.1 Lens Esculenta Seed Extract (p-Refinyl®) 1 Excipients: Trimethylpentanediol / Adipic Acid / Glycerin Crosspolymer 1 Rice starch and tapioca starch 2-6 Preservative qs Hectorite 0.3 Pigment(s): CI77491 CI77492 CI77499 2.5 CI77891

[0190] Table 5 - Composition C3 according to the invention

[0191] Images of a skin area on the forehead of the test subjects are acquired using the VISIA®-CR device, by a technician trained and experienced in this analysis, at the following times: - T0: before applying the composition to the affected skin area, - Timm: between 10 and 30 minutes after this application.

[0192] The selected skin area, referred to as the area of ​​interest, is an area of ​​heterogeneous pigmentation (with the presence of spots).

[0193] An evaluation of the images captured by the device is carried out in order to study the coverage of this C3 composition, using the FrameScan® software. This software consists of two analysis modules, one colorimetric, used for the analysis of color and brightness, and the other morphological, used for the analysis of the morphology of spots, the density of wrinkles and the homogeneity of the skin.

[0194] To evaluate the potential coverage of the C3 composition according to the invention, the images obtained at T0 are compared to the images obtained immediately after application of the composition (Timm). For the coverage analysis, photos with a cross-polarized filter are used, as well as a color tracking module of the FrameScan® software, in which the total area parameter is used.

[0195] The software calculates the proportion of the total area of ​​the area of ​​interest occupied by heterogeneous areas at T0 and Timm. The results are shown in [Fig. 1].

[0196] It is observed that a statistically significant reduction (of 65%) of the parameter which is the proportion of the total surface occupied by heterogeneous areas, is obtained after application of the composition according to the invention on the area of ​​skin concerned, reflecting a much more uniform appearance of the skin and therefore fewer heterogeneous areas.

[0197] The inventors therefore clearly demonstrate that a composition according to the invention is capable of making the appearance of the skin more uniform.

Claims

Demands

1. A tinted sunscreen cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, suitable for topical application to the skin, comprising, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: - 30 to 50% water, - 1 to 5% of the particulate sunscreen phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, - at least one emulsifier, - at least one oily emollient, - at least one pigment, characterized in that the total pigment content in the composition is between 1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and in that said composition further comprises a suspending agent selected from unmodified smectites, the quantity of suspending agent(s) selected from unmodified smectites in the composition being between 0.3 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one pigment is selected from iron oxides and titanium dioxide, and any of their mixtures.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, comprising the four pigments CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499 and CI 77891.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein said suspending agent selected from unmodified smectites is hectorite or bentonite.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the total content of emulsifier(s) is between 2 and 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the total content of oily emollient(s) is between 10 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein said at least one oily emollient is selected from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, di-caprylyl carbonate, coco-caprylate, coco-caprylate / caprate, dii-sopropyl sebacate, diethylhexyl succinate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, propylheptyl caprylate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isonanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylhexyl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, octyldodecanol, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate and dicaprylyl ether, and any mixture thereof.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising at least one additional sunscreen, preferably at least one fat-soluble organic sunscreen selected from di-ethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, or any mixture thereof.

9. Cosmetic composition according to claim 8, comprising the additional sunscreens: - diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, - bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and, - ethylhexyl triazone or diethylhexyl butamido triazone.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, not comprising ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3 and / or benzophenone-4.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising between 1 and 15% by weight of texturizing agent(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, further comprising an extract of Lens esculenta seeds.

13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, further comprising at least one humectant, preferably at least glycerin, preferably in an amount less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, devoid of gelling agent or comprising from 0.01 to 1% by weight of gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to

16. 14, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, having a dynamic viscosity at 25°C between 700 and 10000 mPa.s.

17. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, for use for sun protection of the skin and / or hair of a subject, wherein said composition is applied topically to said skin and / or hair.