Ecobiological topical composition suitable for preventing and / or combating sebocyte inflammation
A topical composition combining succinic acid and phenyl propanoid glycosides addresses sebocyte inflammation, effectively treating acne and restoring skin balance by inhibiting IL-8 secretion, thus reducing acne symptoms and skin redness.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024004617
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-02
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-07
AI Technical Summary
Existing skincare solutions fail to effectively prevent and treat sebocyte inflammation, which contributes to acne and associated skin issues like redness and blemishes, while maintaining skin balance and avoiding harmful side effects.
A synergistic combination of succinic acid and phenyl propanoid glycosides, derived from plant extracts, is used in a topical composition to inhibit IL-8 secretion and reduce sebocyte inflammation, promoting skin homeostasis and reducing acne symptoms.
The composition effectively inhibits sebocyte inflammation, preventing and treating acne, reducing redness and blemishes, and restoring skin balance without harmful side effects, through synergistic action on sebocytes.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Ecobiological topical composition suitable for preventing and / or combating sebocyte inflammation. FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of skincare, advantageously ecobiological, in particular topical compositions, and their uses for preventing and / or combating redness and / or blemishes on oily and / or acne-prone skin, as well as preventing and / or treating acne, in particular inflammatory acne, by acting specifically on the inflammation of sebocytes. PRIOR ART
[0002] Acne is a common skin condition affecting the pilosebaceous follicles (pores) of the face, chest, and back, resulting in the appearance of lesions. It accounts for 20% of dermatological consultations and is experienced by more than 80% of adolescents, as well as approximately 40% of adults, particularly those between 20 and 40 years of age. This condition can cause significant psychological distress and a considerable loss of self-confidence in the affected individual.
[0003] Acne occurs when skin pores become clogged with sebum and dead skin cells. It is a complex condition due to its multifactorial nature. Inflammatory acne generally follows comedonal acne, which manifests as blackheads or microcysts. These signs of acne may either disappear spontaneously or become inflamed. The blemishes then take the form of papules (large, hard, red bumps) and pustules (bumps topped with a white head containing purulent fluid), or even nodules located at the level of the pilosebaceous follicles when the inflammation is deep. This is then referred to as inflammatory acne.
[0004] Acne is therefore an inflammatory condition affecting the pilosebaceous follicle and, in particular, the sebaceous gland. The latter is an intradermal gland that secretes sebum, a lipid film composed of a complex mixture of lipids whose main function is to protect and lubricate the skin and hair. Sebaceous glands are present on virtually the entire human body, although at varying densities, and are generally associated with hair follicles. One or more sebaceous glands may surround a follicle, and the sebaceous gland itself is surrounded by an arrector pili muscle.
[0005] In the sebaceous gland, sebocytes are the cells responsible for sebum production via lipid synthesis from fatty acids and cholesterol present in the cells. Sebocytes are specialized cells that modulate sebum production in response to hormonal signals, such as androgens. Sebocytes therefore play a proven role in the pathophysiology of acne due to their role in sebum production.
[0006] Indeed, it appears that dysseborrhea makes sebum considerably more pro-inflammatory (Li et al., 2017). In particular, in acne patients, the saturation of sebum fatty acids is altered and the squalene fraction of sebum is increased. Furthermore, the presence of peroxidized squalene (pro-inflammatory) and a decrease in vitamin E, the major antioxidant of sebum, are noted (Ottaviani et al., 2006). Moreover, the oxidation of squalene leads to a thickening of the sebum, which contributes to the formation of comedones through the mechanical obstruction of pores. The accumulation of oxidized lipids is also thought to be responsible for inflammation within comedones. It has been observed that the degree of lipo-peroxidation (in which squalene peroxide participates), and the levels of interleukin-1-a and NF-kB are higher in inflammatory lesions than in non-inflammatory lesions of patients with acne (Tochio et al., 2009).Finally, lipoperoxides are capable of altering the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, thus influencing other skin cells.
[0007] Furthermore, several recent studies have shown that sebocytes also contribute to the inflammatory state via other mechanisms that are independent of sebum production. Thus, in a pro-inflammatory environment, sebocytes are capable of secreting the pleiotropic cytokine TNF-α (Nagy et al., 2006; Lee et al., 2010; Lee et al., 2013). In addition, studies show that the sebaceous gland can produce the cytokines IL-α and IL-1 (Antilla et al., 1992).
[0008] IL-la is present in open comedones (the first lesions of acne) and induces hyperkeratinization. Another study showed an amplification of the expression of the cytokines IL-6 and IL-8 in sebocytes from acne-prone skin (Alestas et al., 2006). Furthermore, it has been shown that the sebum of acne patients contains metalloproteinases (i.e., MMP-1, MMP-13, proMMP-9) as well as their inhibitors (i.e., TIMP-1 and -2). These proteins originate from keratinocytes but also from sebocytes, since the immortalized SZ95 sebocyte cell line in culture is capable of secreting proMMP-2 and proMMP-9 (Papakonstantinou et al., 2005). The skin of acne patients shows a higher level of MMPs than in healthy individuals (Kang et al., 2005), and it is known that the action of MMPs can contribute to exacerbating the inflammatory state of the skin. The expression of defensins, antimicrobial peptides with pro-inflammatory activity, is also increased in acne-prone skin (Choi et al., 2014).Sebocytes also contribute directly to the inflammatory processes of acne by activating immune cells and, in particular, by inducing the differentiation of Thl7 cells (Mattii et al. 2018). The skin microbiome could also contribute to the onset and / or development of acne. to the development of acne; in particular, the role of the bacterium C. acnes, which proliferates on the skin using sebum as a nutrient, must be taken into consideration. C. acnes is now considered a commensal bacterium necessary for maintaining skin balance. However, it has been shown that disruption of the balance between the different phylotypes of the bacterium and / or biofilm formation are involved in acne pathology. It is established that seborrhea contributes to the proliferation of this bacterial species, which secretes lipases that, in turn, metabolize sebum triglycerides into irritating free fatty acids, contributing to the local inflammatory response (Lee et al., 2019; Holland et al., 2010). Furthermore, it has been shown that sebocytes respond to the presence of this bacterium, since exposure of the SZ95 cell line to C. acnes phylotypes IA and IB has been shown to increase the risk of acne.Acne leads to the expression of defensin hBD-2, IL-8 and TNF-α (Nagy et al. 2006), which was confirmed by a study showing that an extract of C. acnes is able to activate the NF-κB and p38 MAPK pathways on the SZ95 sebocyte cell line, thereby increasing IL-8 secretion in a TLR-2 dependent manner (Huang et al. 2015).
[0009] It is clear from the foregoing that the classical view of the essentially passive role of sebocytes in acne has been overturned by several discoveries made in recent years. It has thus been shown that sebocytes contribute to generating an inflammatory environment in three ways: (i) via hyperseborrhea, which contributes to the formation of comedones and, consequently, to the growth of C. acnes; (ii) via dysseborrhea, which affects the proliferation / differentiation of keratinocytes and has a pro-inflammatory effect; and
[0010] (iii) via with the direct secretion of inflammatory mediators, including cytokines, defensins and MMPs, which amplify local inflammation at the heart of the pilosebaceous unit.
[0011] These recent discoveries suggest a new ecobiological route for treating acne, through the reduction of sebocyte inflammation, a route that has been very little explored until now.
[0012] There therefore remains an obvious need to develop, in particular according to the principles of ecobiology, topical compositions which effectively and sustainably prevent and / or combat sebocyte inflammation, in particular to prevent and / or combat redness and / or marks on oily and / or acne-prone skin, to prevent and / or treat acne, in particular inflammatory acne, while ensuring good tolerance without inducing harmful side effects. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0013] After much research, it is to the Applicant's credit that she unexpectedly and surprisingly identified a combination of compounds, preferably ecobiological, topical, advantageously cosmetic, perfectly adapted for use on human skin and which act in synergy to meet the aforementioned needs.
[0014] In particular, the Applicant has identified an association of compounds, preferably ecobiological, topical, advantageously cosmetic, which act synergistically to prevent and / or combat sebocyte inflammation, enabling the prevention and / or treatment of inflammation of the pilosebaceous gland and, ultimately, contribute to (i) the prevention and / or control of redness and / or marks on oily and / or acne-prone skin, (ii) the prevention and / or treatment of acne, in particular inflammatory acne and / or (iii) the effective and rapid healing of acne lesions, advantageously by reducing associated marks.
[0015] Thus, a first object of the present invention relates to a composition, advantageously ecobiological, topical, preferably cosmetic, comprising:
[0016] - succinic acid or one of its salts; and
[0017] - at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside, or an extract containing it.
[0018] Within the framework of the invention, by the expressions "ecobiological composition" "Ecobiological compound," "ecobiological active ingredient," or "ecobiological excipient" refers to a composition, compound, ingredient, or excipient that respects the individual, their interactions with the world, and the planet. In other words, it designates a composition, compound, active ingredient, or excipient that respects an individual's homeostasis, their interactions with the world, and the environment. Specifically, it refers to a composition, compound, active ingredient, or excipient that respects the living cell communities that constitute the skin and its ecosystem (i.e., skin microbiota, keratinocytes, fibroblasts, etc.) and that constantly interact with each other and with their environment to maintain the homeostasis / balance of this skin ecosystem.
[0019] In the context of the invention, the expression "ecobiological approach" refers to the particular approach initiated by the inventor and developed by the Applicant which combines cutaneous biology and ecosystem to help the skin live according to its natural biology, in the long term.
[0020] The present invention offers various advantages, including:
[0021] - (i) it allows the simple and routinely integrable use of a composition effective, whose compounds act synergistically to prevent and / or treat the aforementioned skin dysfunctions; (ii) it helps to protect and / or restore skin balance; and
[0022] (iii) it is inexpensive.
[0023] In particular, the present invention makes it possible to prevent and / or combat sebocyte inflammation, in particular by inhibiting the secretion of IL-8; and thus to contribute to maintaining and / or ensuring the restoration of homeostasis in acne-prone and / or acne-prone and / or oily skin; Succinic acid, or one of its salts, is an organic compound found naturally in many living organisms, particularly in the metabolism of plants and animals. It is widely used as a food additive, notably as an acidity regulator. In chemistry, it is also used as a reagent in many organic synthesis reactions.
[0024] Phenyl propanoid glycosides are compounds found in many plants where they are biosynthesized from two amino acids, phenylalanine and tyrosine, and are characterized by the presence of a phenyl propanoid group linked to a sugar residue. They have a wide variety of physiological functions, such as plant defense against herbivores and other potential aggressors. They are also components of cell walls, serve as protection against ultraviolet radiation, as pigments and signaling molecules, and are also a form of carbon storage in tissues.
[0025] The at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside according to the invention may be in the form of a pure molecule, obtained by chemical synthesis, by enzymatic synthesis, or obtained by extraction and purification from plants, in particular fresh or dried plants.
[0026] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, it may also be at least one extract of plant origin containing (or rich in) at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside, advantageously from species belonging to the genera Verbascum, Plantago, Verbena, Lippia, Fraxinus, Leucosceptrum, Syringa, more advantageously Syringa, preferably from the species Syringa vulgaris, in particular an extract from cell cultures of Syringa vulgaris.
[0027] Advantageously, the Syringa vulgaris IRB SV25 / B cell line (DSM: 16857) described in document EP1736167A1 is used as the source of at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside in the composition according to the invention and cultivation and extraction is carried out according to the process described in the same document.
[0028] According to a particular embodiment, the extract according to the invention has a concentration of phenyl propanoid glycosides of between about 0.01% and 99.9% by mass relative to the total mass of the extract, advantageously between 50% and 99.9%, more advantageously between 80% and 99%.
[0029] In all cases, it can be used as a free molecule, or encapsulated, vectorized, grafted, for example to improve its stability or solubility, or to reduce the color impact linked to its use.
[0030] The extraction of phenyl propanoid glycosides can be carried out from plants, or plant tissues, or plant cell cultures, usually using solvents organic solvents (methanol, and to a lesser extent, ethanol or ethyl acetate), followed by dissolution of the crude extract in water, possibly hot, and washing with organic solvents. Depending on the desired degree of purity, the dried methanolic extract can be redistributed in a suitable glycol-water solvent, and the purification steps can be repeated until the pure molecule is obtained, or any preparation that leads to an intermediate purity can be carried out.
[0031] According to a particular embodiment, the at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside according to the invention is represented by the following general formula (I):
[0032] in which, advantageously:
[0033] - RI represents a hydrogen atom or a monosaccharide having 5 or 6 atoms of carbon;
[0034] - R2 represents a hydrogen atom, a caffeoyl group (A) or a group feruloyl (B);
[0035] - R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a monosaccharide having 5 or 6 atoms of carbon, a disaccharide having 10 to 12 carbon atoms, a caffeoyl group (A) or a feruloyl group (B);
[0036] - R4 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a hydroxyl group;
[0037] - R5 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, said hydroxyl group being free or condensed with the alcohol group at position C2 of the glycoside in order to form a 1,4-dioxane ring;
[0038] - R6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; and
[0039] when R2 is a caffeoyl group (A) or a feruloyl group (B) then R3 is a hydrogen atom or when R3 is a caffeoyl group (A) or a feruloyl group (B) then R2 is a hydrogen atom with A and B having the following formula:.
[0040] According to a more particular embodiment,
[0041] - RI is a rhamnose residue; and
[0042] - R4, R5 and R6 are methyl residues.
[0043] In the context of the invention, the term “inhibitor” and the expression “IL-8 synthesis inhibitor” are used interchangeably and refer to an agent, treatment, or culture condition capable of triggering a specific reaction or programmed sequence of reactions in the biological system, namely the reduction and / or inhibition of the synthesis (i.e., transcription and / or translation) or secretion of IL-8.
[0044] In the context of the invention, the terms "active compound," "active ingredient," and "active principle" are used interchangeably and refer to a substance or compound, preferably ecobiological, that possesses biological properties underlying a physiological, cosmetic, and / or therapeutic effect. The active compound, active ingredient, or active principle is to be distinguished from at least one excipient present in the composition according to the invention.
[0045] In the context of the invention, the term "excipient" refers to a substance or compound, preferably eco-biological, other than an active ingredient, which imparts properties to the composition, particularly those related to consistency, dosage form, and / or the delivery of the active ingredient. The excipient ensures the creation of specific textures, fragrances, and / or colors for a formulation, as well as its preservation, stability, safety, and longevity, in accordance with regulations. The excipient is distinct from the at least one active compound, the active ingredient, or the active ingredient present in the composition according to the invention.
[0046] In the context of the invention, the expression "topical composition" or "composition for cutaneous application" or "for topical use" refers to a composition compatible with application to the surface of the body, in particular on the skin, mucous membranes, hair and / or scalp, preferably human skin.
[0047] In the context of the invention, the terms "content", "quantity" and "level" are used interchangeably.
[0048] In the context of the invention, the term "triazine-derived sunscreen" refers to a molecule capable of filtering UV-A and / or UV-B rays and comprising at least one aromatic heterocycle containing three nitrogen atoms. The triazine derivative may therefore correspond, in particular, to a 1,2,4-triazine, a 1,3,5-triazine, or a 1,2,3-triazine.
[0049] In the context of the invention, "organic UVA filter" means any organic filter that absorbs mainly or exclusively in the UVA radiation.
[0050] According to particular embodiments, the composition according to the invention has the following additional technical characteristics, taken alone or in combination:
[0051] - the composition according to the invention comprises at least two phenyl propanoids glycosides of different chemical structure, advantageously among the compounds of general formula (I) according to the invention;
[0052] - at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside or an extract containing it according to the invention represents between 0.00001% and 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, advantageously between 0.0001% and 1%, preferably between 0.001% and 0.1%;
[0053] - at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside according to the invention is selected in the group consisting of verbascoside (or acteoside; CAS number 61276-17-3), isoverbascoside (or isoacteoside; CAS number 61303-13-7), salidroside (CAS number 10338-51-9) and their mixtures;
[0054] - at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside is verbascoside and / or isorverbascoside; - the at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside according to the invention is the association of verbascoside and isoverbascoside, in a verbascoside:isoverbascoside mass ratio between 10:2 and 100:1;
[0055] - at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside or an extract containing it according to the invention has a purity in phenyl propanoid glycoside greater than 50%, advantageously 60%, even more advantageously 70%, preferably 80%, or even 90% by weight;
[0056] - at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside or an extract containing it according to the invention is the raw material SEBULESS® corresponding to the INCI name matodextrin & Syringa vulgaris (lilac) extract and marketed by the company SEDERMA;
[0057] - succinic acid or one of its salts according to the invention represents between 0.0001% and 20% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably between 0.001% and 10%, even more advantageously between 0.1% and 5%;
[0058] - succinic acid or one of its salts according to the invention has a purity superior to 70%, advantageously 80%, even more advantageously 90%, preferably 95%, or even 99%;
[0059] - succinic acid or one of its salts according to the invention is the raw material Beauté by Roquette® SA 130 corresponding to the INCI name succinic acid and marketed by the company ROQUETTE FRERES or the material CELLRYEL corresponding to the INCI name sodium succinate and marketed by the company Bio Dell Company Limited or the material MOIS corresponding to the INCI name potassium succinate and marketed by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo Co Ltd;
[0060] - the mass ratio between at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside or an extract in containing according to the invention and succinic acid or one of its salts according to the invention is between 1:100 and 1:10, advantageously 1:30 and 1:80;
[0061] - T at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside or an extract containing it according to the invention, corresponds to the INCI designation Syringa vulgaris (lilac) extract; and / or succinic acid or one of its salts according to the invention corresponds to the INCI designation succinic acid;
[0062] -the extract containing at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside according to the invention is of plant origin, advantageously from species belonging to the genera Verbascum, Plantago, Verbena, Lippia, Fraxinus, Leucosceptrum, Syringa, more advantageously Syringa, preferably from the species Syringa vulgaris, in particular an extract from cell cultures of Syringa vulgaris and the extract has a purity in phenyl propanoid glycoside greater than 50%, advantageously 60%, even more advantageously 70%, preferably 80%, or even 90% by weight and the at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside according to the invention is verbascoside and / or isoverbascoside, advantageously the mass ratio verbascoside: isoverbascoside is between 10:2 and 100:1 and the at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside according to the invention;
[0063] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional active ingredient selected from the group consisting of:
[0064] - dihydromyricetin;
[0065] - a zinc salt, advantageously zinc gluconate;
[0066] - a gallate, advantageously chosen from propyl gallate, octyl gallate and the dodecyl gallate;
[0067] - an extract of Ginkgo biloba, advantageously an extract of Ginkgo biloba including flavonoids;
[0068] - a meroterpene, advantageously bakuchiol;
[0069] - a polyol, advantageously chosen from xylitol, sorbitol and mannitol;
[0070] - a keratolytic agent, advantageously chosen from salicylic acid, acid glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid and lactic acid; taurine and its derivatives, advantageously hypotaurine;
[0071] - sodium metabisulfite;
[0072] - an extract of boldo (Peumus boldus), advantageously a hydrophilic extract of leaves ;
[0073] - fructooligosaccharides;
[0074] The fructooligosaccharides according to the invention are in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight; for example, the raw material ACTILIGHT 950P (TEREOS), corresponding to the INCI designation fructooligosaccharides, can be used in the composition according to the invention.
[0075] Fructooligosaccharides represent between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%;
[0076] - glycyrrhetinic acid or one of its salts.
[0077] Glycyrrhetinic acid or one of its salts according to the invention is in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight; for example, the raw material GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID (MARUZEN), corresponding to the INCI designation glycyrrhetinic acid, can be used in the composition according to the invention;
[0078] Glycyrrhetinic acid or one of its salts according to the invention represents between 0.01% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.1% and 1%;
[0079] - xylitol;
[0080] Xylitol according to the invention is in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight; for example, the raw material OriStar XLT (Orient Stars LLC), corresponding to the INCI designation xylitol, can be used in the composition according to the invention.
[0081] Xylitol according to the invention represents between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%.
[0082] - mannitol;
[0083] The mannitol according to the invention is in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight; for example, the raw material OriStar MNT (Orient Stars LLC), corresponding to the INCI designation mannitol, can be used in the composition according to the invention;
[0084] The mannitol according to the invention represents between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%.
[0085] - of rhamnose;
[0086] The rhamnose according to the invention is in pure form or characterized by a purity greater than 90% by weight; for example, the raw material L-Rhamnose (PVP SA), corresponding to the INCI designation rhamnose, can be used in the composition according to the invention.
[0087] The rhamnose according to the invention represents between 0.0001% and 2% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.001% and 0.1%.
[0088] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional compound selected from the group consisting of acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, squalane, jojoba oil, hyaluronic acid or one of its salts, ectoine and mixtures thereof. The hyaluronic acid or one of its salts according to the invention has a molecular weight (Mw) between 0.1 kDa and 2 MDa, in particular between 400 kDa and 600 kDa;
[0089] Hyaluronic acid or one of its salts according to the invention represents between 0.001% and 10% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.05% and 0.5%.
[0090] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one sunscreen, advantageously an organic sunscreen, more advantageously lipophilic, preferably a triazine-derived sunscreen. Triazine-derived sunscreens suitable for use in a composition according to the invention are available on the market from several suppliers; for example, the following raw materials can be used in the composition according to the invention:
[0091] - TINOSORB™ S / TINOSORB™ AQUA (BASF) corresponding to the designation INCI bis ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (CAS number: 187393-00-6);
[0092] - the UVASORB™ HEB (SIGMA 3V) corresponding to the INCI designation diethylhexyl butamido triazone (CAS number 154702-15-5);
[0093] - TINOSORB™ A2B (BASF) corresponding to the INCI designation tris-biphenyl triazine (CAS no: 31274-51-8);
[0094] - the commercially available UVINUL™ T150 (BASF) corresponding to the INCI designation ethylhexyl triazone (CAS number: 88122-99-0);
[0095] - the TRIASORB™ (PLANTS & INDUSTRY) corresponding to the INCI designation phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine (CAS number 55514-22-2);
[0096] - the UVASORB™ K2A (SIGMA 3V) corresponding to the INCI bis designation isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl melamine (CAS number 288254-16-0);
[0097] - 1,3,5-triazine derivatives corresponding to CAS numbers 2174063-28-4, 2174063-29-5 and 2174063-30-8, described in document EP 3275872; and
[0098] - 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino diethyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino diisopropyl benzalmalonate)-l,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino dimethyl benzalmalonate)-1,3,5,triazine or 2,4,6-tris(α-ethyl cyano-4-aminocinnamate)-1,3,5-triazine;
[0099] At least one sunscreen according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, tris-biphenyl triazine, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine and bis-isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl melamine and mixtures thereof;
[0100] The composition according to the invention comprises at least the triazine-derived sunscreens corresponding to the following INCI designations: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, and ethylhexyl triazone.
[0101] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic UVA filter, which is in aqueous (hydrophilic) and / or oily (lipophilic) phase, advantageously selected from the group consisting of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate and mixtures thereof.
[0102] The composition according to the invention is free of sunscreens corresponding to the following INCI designations: 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene)camphor; 3-Benzylidenecamphor, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and / or octocrylene.
[0103] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one mineral screen (or inorganic mineral filter), which corresponds in particular to a metal oxide and / or another compound that is difficult to soluble or insoluble in water, in particular selected from the oxides of titanium (TiO2), zinc (ZnO), iron (Fe2O3), zirconium (ZrO2), silicon (SiO2), manganese (for example MnO), aluminium (Al2O3), or cerium (Ce2O3), bismuth trioxide (Bi2O3), bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl) and mixtures thereof; advantageously selected from the group consisting of compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof, advantageously corresponding respectively to the following raw materials: Z-COTE™ LSA and T-Lite™ (BASF);
[0104] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one emulsifier, advantageously selected from the following group of compounds identified by their INCI designation: sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium cetyl phosphate, glyceryl stearate, C20-22 alkyl phosphate / C20-C22 alkyl alcohols, tribehenin PEG-20 esters, C14-C22 alcohols / C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, coco-glucoside, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate and mixtures thereof.
[0105] By way of example, the raw materials EMULGIN SG (INCI: sodium stearoyl glutamate; BASF); EMULIUM 22 (INCI: tribehenin PEG-20 esters; GATTEFOSSE); SENSANOV WR (INCI: C20-22 alkylphosphate / C20-C22 alkyl alcohols; SEPPIC); MONTANOV L (INCI: C14-C22 alcohols / C12-20 alkyl glucoside), AMPHISOL K (INCI: potassium cetyl phosphate; DSM), MONTANOV 82 (INCI: cetearyl alcohol / coco-glucoside; SEPPIC); TEGO™ Care PBS 6 MB (polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate); Cithrol DPHS (CRODA) or Isolan GPS (EVONIK) may be used in the composition according to the invention.
[0106] ; The emulsifier according to the invention represents between 0.1% and 5% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.5% and 3%.
[0107] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in a galenic form adapted for topical use, advantageously cutaneous, preferably cosmetic.
[0108] Thus, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic, organic, or oily solution; a suspension or dispersion in solvents or fatty substances, such as a lotion or serum; a vesicular dispersion; a water-in-oil (W / O), oil-in-water (O / W), or multiple emulsions such as a water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) emulsion. The emulsion may be more or less thick and may be in the form of a cream or lotion; the composition of the invention may also be in the form of an ointment, gel, solid stick, anhydrous paste or solid products, a foam, in particular an aerosol, a biphasic composition, or a sprayable composition.
[0109] The pharmaceutical form of the composition, as well as its method of preparation, and consequently the excipients suitable for the composition of the invention, can be chosen by a person skilled in the art based on their general knowledge, depending on the type of composition desired. In particular, the composition may include any fat commonly used in the cosmetic field. Examples include fats such as oils and waxes of vegetable, mineral, animal, and / or synthetic origin. The oils may be volatile or non-volatile. Other examples include synthetic esters and ethers, fatty alcohols, and fatty acids. The composition may also include an aqueous medium, a hydroalcoholic medium containing an alcohol such as ethanol or isopropanol, or an organic medium comprising common organic solvents such as Cl-6 alcohols, particularly ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, and ketones.Naturally, a person skilled in the art will ensure that any additional adjuvants or excipients, and / or their quantity, are chosen in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. The composition may include at least one conventional emulsifier, chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic, or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or in mixtures. It may be particularly advantageous to formulate the composition of the invention so that it is sprayable. This can be achieved, for example, by formulating specific emulsions comprising particular combinations of excipients.
[0110] Another object of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic, advantageously cosmetic, use of the composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention to prevent and / or combat redness and / or marks on oily and / or acne-prone skin.
[0111] Another object of the invention relates to the composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention, for its use to prevent and / or combat redness and / or marks on oily and / or acne-prone skin.
[0112] Another object of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic, advantageously cosmetic, use of the composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention to prevent and / or reduce the formation and / or attenuate acne scars and / or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
[0113] Another object of the invention relates to a composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention for its use in preventing and / or reducing the formation and / or attenuating acne scars and / or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
[0114] Another object of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic, advantageously cosmetic, use of the composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention to prevent and / or combat sebocyte inflammation (i.e. inflammation of sebocytes).
[0115] Another object of the invention relates to a composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention for its use in preventing and / or combating sebocyte inflammation (i.e. inflammation of sebocytes).
[0116] Another object of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic, advantageously cosmetic, use of the composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention to prevent and / or reduce and / or contribute to reducing inflammatory acne lesions.
[0117] Another object of the invention relates to a composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention for its use in a method to prevent and / or reduce and / or contribute to reducing inflammatory acne lesions.
[0118] Another object of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic, advantageously cosmetic, use of the composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention to prevent and / or fight and / or contribute to fighting acne, advantageously inflammatory acne.
[0119] Another object of the invention relates to a composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention for its use in preventing and / or treating and / or contributing to the treatment of acne, advantageously inflammatory acne.
[0120] Another object of the invention relates to a method for cleansing or cosmetically caring for oily and / or acne-prone skin, comprising the application on human skin of a composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention.
[0121] Another object of the invention relates to a composition, advantageously ecobiological, according to the invention for its use in a method of cleansing or caring for oily and / or acne-prone skin, including in particular the application of the composition to human skin.
[0122] The following examples, without being exhaustive, form an integral part of the invention, and any feature that appears to be novel in relation to the prior art is claimed as such and as a general means. FIGURES
[0123] [Fig. 1]: Evaluation of the effect of verbascoside and succinic acid, alone or in combination, on the synthesis and / or secretion of IL-8 in a sebocyte cell line subjected to dual inflammatory induction via incubation for 48 h with a C. acnes lysate and interleukin rhIL-17A. The results are from a 3-well experiment per condition. Statistical tests are performed versus the "stimulated control" condition (significance: *: p<0.05; **: p<0.01; ***: p<0.001). EXAMPLES OF ACHIEVEMENTS
[0124] The percentages indicated are given in mass of product relative to the total mass of the composition in the tables below.
[0125] Example 1: Cosmetic composition according to the invention - SPF30+ oil-in-water sunscreen emulsion
[0126] A composition according to the invention is described in Table 1.
[0127] [Tables] Afom INCI Mixed % AQUA / WATER / EAU QSP 100 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 14.00 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 10.00 METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYLTETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL S.00 B UTYL M ETHOXYD1 BEN ZOYLM ETHAN E 5.00 SUCOMC ACID 3.00 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLPXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 2.50 GLYCERIN 2.00 C20-22 ALKYL PHOSPHATE 1.10 GLYCERYL STEARATE 1.00 PEG-100 STEARATE 1.00 TREHALOSE 1.00 C20-22 ALCOHOLS 0.90 DECYL GLUCOSIDE 0.90 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0.50 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0.50 MALTODEXTRIN 0.45 PHENOXY ETHANOL 0.35
[0128] Example 2: Cosmetic composition within the meaning of invention 11 - Face cream - HÆ emulsion
[0129] A composition according to the invention is described in Table 2. [Tables2] Name INC! Mixed % AQUA / WATER / EAU QSP 100.00 ISOSTEARYL ÎSOSTEARATE 9.00 GLYCERIN 7.00 CA P RYL IC / CAP RIC TRI G LYCE RI DE 5.00 PROPANEDfOL 3.50 SODIUM SUCCINATE 2.50 CHYL PALM HATE 2.50 LAURYL.LAURATE 2.00 SILICA 2.00 ALCOHOL 1.9218 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 1.20 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 1.00 CAPRYLOYL GLYCINE 1.00 OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) FRUIT OlL 1.00 POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE 1.00 TRIOLEIN 1.00 ZEA MAYS (CORN ] STARCH 0^5-44 FRAGRANCE (PERFUME) 0.50 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 0.30
[0130] Example 3: Cosmetic composition within the meaning of invention 11 - Face cream - W / H emulsion
[0131] A composition according to the invention is described in Table 3. [Tables3] Name INC / Mixed % AQUA / WATER / EAU QSP 100 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 15.00 PROPANEDIOL 10.00 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 9.52 COCOGLYCERIDES 7.00 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 6.8675 PQLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE / SEBACATE 4.00 SIMMONDSIACHINESISQOJOBA} SEEDOIL 3.773 CRAMBE ABYSSINICASEED OIL PHYTOSTEROL ESTERS 2.00 SUCGN1C ACID 2.00 SILICA DIMETHYL SILYLATE 2.00 SILICA 1.00 SODIUM CITRATE 1.00 POLYHYDROXYSTEAR1C ACID 0.5235 MANNÎTOL 0.50 STEARICAÇID 0.3465 PROPYL GALLATE 0.30 MALTODEXTRIN 0.27
[0132] Example 4: Cosmetic composition within the meaning of invention 11 - Cleansing gel
[0133] A composition according to the invention is described in Table 4. [Tables 4] Name !NCl Mixed 96 AQUA / WATER / EAU QSP100 SODIUM COCOAMPHOACETATE 8.125 SODIUM LAUROYL SARCOSINATE 2.10 PROPANEDIOL 2.00 CITRIC ACID 1.575 SODIUM CITRATE 1.00 SUCCINIC ACID 0.75 COCO-GLUCOSIDE 0.75 GLYCERYLOLEATE 0.75 SYRINGA VULGARIS (LILAC) EXTRACT 0.09
[0134] Example 5: In vitro evaluation of the effect of the composition according to the invention on sebocyte inflammation 1. Objective of the study
[0135] This study aims (i) to demonstrate the ability of the two cosmetic active ingredients of the invention, alone or in combination, to inhibit the production / secretion of IL-8, and therefore to reduce sebocyte inflammation. 2. Materials and methods 2.1. Biological model
[0136] - Cell type: Immortalized sebocyte line expressing the receptor the androgen (derived from the SEBO662 line) Qima-Bioalternatives SEBO662AR; (Barrault et al. 2015).
[0137] - Growing conditions: 37°C, 5% CO2
[0138] - Culture medium: QIMA Bioalternatives maintenance medium
[0139] Differentiation medium: Epilife™ medium optimized for the test (hydrocortisone-free, antibiotic-free) + DHT 1 nM
[0140] 2,2, Inducers used for dual induction of the inflammatory response
[0141] - Bacterial strain: C. acnes - virulent phylotype 1A1 ATCC® 6919™ inactivated; This strain was stored at -80°C upon receipt. The procedure followed to inactivate the strain was as follows: after amplification, a bacterial suspension was prepared at approximately 1.5 x 10¹⁰ CFU / ml in assay medium. C. acnes ATCC® 6919™ was then inactivated by several successive heat shocks. Following this inactivation, no colonies were detected on the agar plates. The inactivated bacterial strain was adjusted to a MOI (multiplicity of infection) of 100. The MOI is the ratio of the number of inactivated C. acnes to the number of host cells (SEBO662AR sebocytes). An MOI of 100 (MOI100) means that the bacterial cells outnumber the eukaryotic cells by 100.
[0142] - Interleukin rhIL-17A Ref. 7955-IL-025, R&D Systems Batch n° DCVA0921011. LTL-17 was used at 1 ong / ml. 2.3. Culture and processing
[0143] SEBO662AR sebocytes were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with differentiation medium (Day 4), where the cells were pre-incubated for 72 hours. On Day 1, half of the medium was removed and replaced with differentiation medium containing the active ingredients to be tested, and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. On Day 0, the inducers (double induction, i.e., IL-17, 10 ng / ml + inactivated C. acnes MOI100 lysate) were added, and the cells were incubated for 48 hours. At the end of the incubation period, the culture supernatants were collected for IL-8 quantification.
[0144] All experimental conditions were carried out in n=3. 2.4 Active ingredients tested
[0145] The active ingredients tested are shown in Table 5. The concentration shown is as a percentage by mass of dry matter of active ingredient relative to the total mass of the culture medium.
[0146] [Tables5] Abbreviation Active ingredient INCI CAS Number Batch Number Concentration AS Succinic acid 110-15-6 DE519 0.007%; 0.02% PPG Phenylpropanoid glycosides Verbascoside 61276-1 7-3 2046075 0.01%; 0.03% 2.5 Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA)
[0147] LTL-8 released in culture supernatants was measured using a specific ELISA kit, in accordance with the supplier's instructions.
[0148] -ELISA Kit: DuoSet IL8 / CXCL8 human - Supplier: R&D Systems, ref. DY208:
[0149] -Lower detection limit: 31.25 pg / ml; and
[0150] -Upper detection limit: 2000 pg / ml 2.6. Data Management
[0151] The raw data were analyzed using Microsoft Excel and GraphPad PRISM software.
[0152] Intergroup comparisons were performed using an unpaired Student's t-test. Statistical significance was determined using a Student's t-test. Differences were considered statistically significant at p < 0.05. (NS: p > 0.05; * : p<0.05 ; ** : p<0.01 ; *** : p<0.001). The statistical analysis can be interpreted if n>5, however for n<5 the statistical values are indicative.
[0153] Formulas used in this report: Standard error of the mean: sem = Sd / Vn
[0154] The standard error of the mean (sem) is a measure of the probable distance between The sample mean and the true population mean. The sample mean is calculated as the standard deviation divided by the square root of the sample size. 3. Results and conclusions
[0155] The results are presented in [Fig. 1].
[0156] It appears that:
[0157] - The unstimulated control represents the basal condition for synthesis and secretion of IL-8 in the sebocyte cell line used;
[0158] - The synthesis and / or secretion of IL-8 is almost doubled compared to the condition basal by the selected inducers (stimulated condition), which validates the model. The stimulated control condition subsequently arbitrarily represents 100% IL-8 synthesis;
[0159] -a positive inhibition control, NFKB pathway inhibitor IKK Inhibitor X (CAS 431898-65-6; Santa Cruz Biotechnology; 10 pm) inhibits 100% of the induced IL-8 synthesis and / or secretion (not shown in the graph);
[0160] - the active ingredients taken individually, tested at the doses indicated, have not significant effect on the reduction of IL-8 synthesis and / or secretion;
[0161] - the active ingredients taken in combination, tested at the indicated doses, reduce the IL-8 levels in the medium were observed to be synergistic and dose-dependent (AS 0.007% + PPG 0.01% = 79+2%; AS 0.02% + PPG 0.03% = 67+4%). After analysis of the significance test, the difference between each active ingredient alone and the combination was significant, confirming the synergistic effect of the two active ingredients. BIBLIOGRAPHY
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Claims
Demands
1. Topical composition, advantageously ecobiological, comprising: - succinic acid or one of its salts; and - at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside, or an extract containing it.
2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that said at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside is represented by the following general formula (I): in which: - RI represents a hydrogen atom or a monosaccharide having 5 or 6 carbon atoms; - R2 represents a hydrogen atom, a caffeoyl group (A) or a feruloyl group (B); - R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a monosaccharide having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, a disaccharide having 10 to 12 carbon atoms, a caffeoyl group (A) or a feruloyl group (B); - R4 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a hydroxyl group; - R5 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, said hydroxyl group being free or condensed with the alcohol group at position C2 of the glycoside in order to form a 1,4-dioxane ring; - R6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; and when R2 is a caffeoyl group (A) or a feruloyl group (B) then R3 is a hydrogen atom, or when R3 is a caffeoyl group (A) or a feruloyl group (B) then R2 is a hydrogen atom, with A and B having the following formula
3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that: - RI is a rhamnose residue; and - R4, R5 and R6 are methyl residues.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside is selected from the group consisting of verbascoside (CAS number 61276-17-3), isorbascoside (CAS number 61303-13-7), salidroside (CAS number 10338-51-9) and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside is verbascoside and / or isorbascoside, advantageously the mass ratio verbascoside / isorbascoside being between 10:2 and 100:
1.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside or an extract containing it represents between 0.00001% and 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, advantageously between 0.0001% and 1%, preferably between 0.001% and 0.1%.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that succinic acid or one of its salts represents between 0.0001% and 20% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably between 0.001% and 10%, even more advantageously between 0.1% and 5%.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one extract containing said at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside is of vegetable origin, advantageously derived from species belonging to the genera Verbascum, Plantago, Verbena, Lippia, Fraxinus, Leucosceptrum, Syringa, more advantageously Syringa, preferably of the species Syringa vulgaris, in particular an extract from cell cultures of Syringa vulgaris.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one extract containing said at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside has a concentration of phenyl propanoid glycosides of between about 50% and 99.9% by mass relative to the total mass of the extract, advantageously between 80% and 99%.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that: - said at least one phenyl propanoid glycoside or an extract containing it, corresponds to the INCI designation Syringa vulgaris (lilac) extract; and / or - said succinic acid or one of its salts corresponds to the INCI designation succinic acid.
11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional active ingredient selected from the group consisting of: - dihydromyricetin; - a zinc salt, advantageously zinc gluconate; - a gallate, advantageously selected from propyl gallate, octyl gallate, and dodecyl gallate; - a Ginkgo biloba extract, advantageously a Ginkgo biloba extract comprising flavonoids; - a meroterpene, advantageously bakuchiol; - a polyol, advantageously selected from xylitol, sorbitol, and mannitol; - a keratolytic agent, advantageously selected from salicylic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, and lactic acid; - taurine and its derivatives, advantageously hypotaurine; - sodium metabisulfite; - an extract of boldo (Peumus boldus), advantageously a hydrophilic extract of leaves; - fructooligosaccharides;and - glycyrrhetinic acid or its salts.;
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one sunscreen, advantageously a lipophilic organic sunscreen, more advantageously a triazine-derived sunscreen.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, for use in preventing and / or treating acne, advantageously inflammatory acne.
14. Composition according to any one of claims 12, for use to prevent and / or combat redness and / or marks on acne-prone skin.
15. A method for cleaning or cosmetically caring for oily skin comprising the application to human skin of a composition as defined by any one of claims 1 to 12.
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