COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR THE TREATMENT OF THE SCALP / HAIR

Abstract

COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR SCALP / HAIR TREATMENT The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one polyol; (b) at least one saturated fatty alcohol; (c) at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol; and (d) at least one hydrophilic thickener, wherein (a) the polyol is 50% by weight or more, preferably 55% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention is stable and useful for treating keratinous material, preferably the scalp and hair, while exhibiting good cosmetic performance on the keratinous material, such as detangling, coating, smooth texture, and / or shine properties. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR THE TREATMENT OF THE SCALP / HAIR Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, suitable for the treatment and / or care of keratinous material, such as the scalp and hair. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Keratinous materials are widely present on the surface of the human body, such as skin and hair.

[0003] Recently, many people have become interested in preventing hair loss (AHL: Anti-Hair Loss), which is one of the concerns in scalp care. As a result, remarkable progress has been made in recent years in the development and marketing of scalp care products.

[0004] There is a demand for more stable formulations for hair and scalp care products in which crystallization does not occur at low temperatures.

[0005] There is also a need for compositions for keratinous material such as scalp and hair which exhibit good cosmetic performance on keratinous material such as detangling, coating, smooth texture and / or shine properties. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0006] An objective of the present invention is to provide a more stable composition which is useful for treating and / or caring for keratinous material, preferably the scalp and hair, while exhibiting good cosmetic performance on keratinous material such as detangling, coating, smooth texture and / or shine properties.

[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising: a. at least one polyol; b. at least one saturated fatty alcohol; c. at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol; and d. at least one hydrophilic thickener

[0008] in which

[0009] the amount of (a) polyol is 50% by weight or more, preferably 55% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0010] The (a) polyol can be selected from glycols, preferably selected from the group consisting of caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, and most preferably is propylene glycol.

[0011] The quantity of the (a) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 55% to 90% by weight, preferably from 60% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 65% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] Preferably, (b) saturated fatty alcohol is chosen from saturated fatty alcohols comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0013] More preferably, the (b) saturated fatty alcohols are chosen from lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0014] The (b) saturated fatty alcohol may comprise two or more types of (b) saturated fatty alcohols, and preferably three or more types of (b) saturated fatty alcohols.

[0015] The quantity of (b) saturated fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] Preferably, the (c) unsaturated fatty alcohol is chosen from unsaturated fatty alcohols comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, preferably 1 or 2 carbon-carbon double bonds, and more preferably one carbon-carbon double bond.

[0017] More preferably, the (c) unsaturated fatty alcohols are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, and preferably oleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0018] The quantity of the (c) unsaturated fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The weight ratio between the total quantity of (b) saturated fatty alcohol(s) and the total quantity of (c) unsaturated fatty alcohol(s) can range from 10:1 to 1:5, preferably from 5:1 to 1:3, more preferably from 3:1 to 1:2, and even more preferably from 2.5:1 to 1:1.

[0020] The (d) hydrophilic thickener can be selected from polysaccharides, preferably cellulose-based polymers, more preferably nonionic cellulose ethers, and even more preferably (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; or mixed (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl-(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.

[0021] The composition according to the present invention may comprise water in an amount of 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 3% by weight or less, and even more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition may be free of water

[0022] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratinous material, such as the scalp or hair, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material. Best embodiment of the invention

[0023] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a stable composition which is useful for treating and / or taking care of keratinous material, preferably the scalp and hair, while exhibiting good cosmetic performance on keratinous material such as detangling, coating, smooth texture and / or shine properties.

[0024] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising: a. at least one polyol; b. at least one saturated fatty alcohol; c. at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol; and d. at least one hydrophilic thickener

[0025] in which

[0026] the (a) polyol is 50% by weight or more, preferably 55% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] The composition according to the present invention is stable, even at low and high temperatures, so that no crystallization and / or solidification is observed. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be stored even under cold or hot conditions.

[0028] Since the composition according to the present invention does not cause crystallization, it can be spread evenly on keratinous material such as the scalp and hair. Thus, the composition according to the present invention is useful for treating and / or caring for keratinous material, preferably the scalp and hair.

[0029] Consequently, the composition according to the present invention is stable and useful for treating keratinous material, preferably the scalp and hair.

[0030] In addition, the composition according to the present invention can offer better cosmetic performance to the keratinous material, such as detangling, coating, smooth texture and / or shine properties.

[0031] In addition, the composition according to the present invention can offer the keratinous material cosmetic effects, such as hydration, derived from the (d) hydrophilic thickener.

[0032] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention may exhibit a property of transforming from a liquid form into a creamy form upon contact with water. This property is preferred for consumers because it can provide a comfortable texture when applied to keratinous material, such as the scalp and hair.

[0033] The ingredients included in the composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below.

[0034] (Polyol)

[0035] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one polyol. Two or more different types of (a) polyols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (a) polyol or a combination of different types of (a) polyols may be used.

[0036] The term "polyol" here refers to an alcohol having two or more free hydroxyl groups, and does not include a saccharide or one of its derivatives. A saccharide derivative includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more of its hydroxyl groups has been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.

[0037] The polyol may be a C2-Ci2 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

[0038] The polyol can be natural or synthetic. The polyol can have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

[0039] The polyol can be selected from glycerins and their derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups) and caprylyl glycol.

[0040] The (a) polyol may be selected from linear or branched polyols, preferably linear polyols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; examples include:

[0041] - diols such as hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, the caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol and butylene glycol; and

[0042] - triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),

[0043] and mixtures thereof.

[0044] The (a) polyol may preferably be selected from glycols, preferably selected from the group consisting of caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably may be propylene glycol.

[0045] The quantity of the (a) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention is at least 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the quantity of the (a) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 55% by weight or more, more preferably 60% by weight or more, and even more preferably 65% ​​by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] The quantity of the (a) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] The quantity of the (a) polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 55% to 90% by weight, preferably from 60% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 65% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] In the context of this patent memorandum, any combination of the above upper limit values ​​and lower limit values ​​may be available to represent the preferred range of quantity.

[0049] (Saturated fatty alcohol)

[0050] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (b) at least one saturated fatty alcohol. Two or more different types of (b) saturated fatty alcohols may can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (b) saturated fatty alcohol or a combination of different types of (b) saturated fatty alcohols may be used.

[0051] The term "fatty" in the present invention means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols.

[0052] The (b) saturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched. Preferably, the (b) saturated fatty alcohol(s) is / are linear.

[0053] The (b) saturated fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from alkyl groups in the C12-C24 position. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0054] Preferably, the (b) saturated fatty alcohol is selected from saturated fatty alcohols comprising a saturated linear fatty radical containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0055] Non-limiting examples of (b) saturated fatty alcohols that may be cited include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Preferably, (b) saturated fatty alcohol is chosen from saturated fatty alcohols comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0057] More preferably, the (b) saturated fatty alcohols are chosen from lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0058] The (b) saturated fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several types of fatty alcohol may coexist in the form of a mixture. Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises two or more types of (b) saturated fatty alcohols. In one embodiment of the present invention, three or more types of (b) saturated fatty alcohols may be included in the composition.

[0059] According to at least one embodiment, the (b) saturated fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

[0060] The quantity of (b) saturated fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, and even more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] The quantity of (b) saturated fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and even more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] The quantity of (b) saturated fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] (Unsaturated fatty alcohol)

[0064] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (c) at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol. Two or more different types of (c) unsaturated fatty alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (c) unsaturated fatty alcohol or a combination of different types of (c) unsaturated fatty alcohols may be used.

[0065] The (c) unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched. Preferably, the (c) unsaturated fatty alcohol(s) is / are linear.

[0066] The (c) unsaturated fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH, in which R is selected from unsaturated, linear, and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The unsaturated radical of R comprises at least one conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bond in its main chain. The number of carbon-carbon double bonds is not particularly limited, but is generally from 1 to 3, preferably 1 or 2, and more preferably 1. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from alkenyl groups in the Ci2-C24 configuration, where 1 to 3 conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds are included. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0067] Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the (c) unsaturated fatty alcohol is chosen from unsaturated fatty alcohols comprising a linear fatty radical containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, preferably 1 or 2 carbon-carbon double bonds, and more preferably one carbon-carbon double bond.

[0068] Non-limiting examples of (c) unsaturated fatty alcohols that may be cited include oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Preferably, the (c) unsaturated fatty alcohol is selected from unsaturated fatty alcohols comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, preferably 1 or 2 carbon-carbon double bonds, and more preferably one carbon-carbon double bond.

[0070] More preferably, the (c) unsaturated fatty alcohols are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably oleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] The quantity of (c) unsaturated fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] The quantity of (c) unsaturated fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] The quantity of the (c) unsaturated fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] In one embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio between the total quantity of (b) saturated fatty alcohol(s) and the total quantity of (c) unsaturated fatty alcohol(s) can range from 10:1 to 1:5, preferably from 5:1 to 1:3, more preferably from 3:1 to 1:2, and even more preferably from 2.5:1 to 1:1.

[0075] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (b) saturated fatty alcohol(s) is / are included in the composition in a greater quantity than the (c) unsaturated fatty alcohol(s).

[0076] (Hydrophilic thickener)

[0077] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one hydrophilic thickener. Two or more different types of (d) hydrophilic thickeners may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (d) hydrophilic thickener or a combination of different types of (d) hydrophilic thickeners may be used.

[0078] The term "hydrophilic" here refers to materials soluble in water at a concentration of 1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0079] The hydrophilic thickener(s) is / are preferably chosen from thickening polymers bearing sugar motifs, such as non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar motifs, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar motifs, associative thickening polymers, and mixtures of these compounds.

[0080] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "sugar motif" means a hydrocarbon-based compound bearing oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms.

[0081] The sugar motifs can optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0082] The sugar motifs that can be included in the hydrophilic thickening polymers of the invention are preferably derived from one or more of the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0083] It is preferable to choose the thickener from among the polysaccharides.

[0084] The polysaccharide that may be cited includes native gums such as:

[0085] a) tree or shrub exudates, including:

[0086] - gum arabic (a branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and of glucuronic acid);

[0087] - Ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose) and glucuronic acid);

[0088] - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0089] - tragacanth gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, of xylose and arabinose);

[0090] b) gums derived from algae, including:

[0091] - agar-agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);

[0092] - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid);

[0093] - carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and sulfate) of anhydrogalactose);

[0094] c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including:

[0095] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0096] - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0097] - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0098] - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);

[0099] - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);

[0100] d) microbial gums, including:

[0101] - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);

[0102] - gellan gum (a partially acylated glucose polymer, rhamnose and of glucuronic acid);

[0103] - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);

[0104] e) plant extracts, including:

[0105] - cellulose (glucose polymer);

[0106] - starch (glucose polymer) and

[0107] - inulin.

[0108] Polysaccharides can be modified physically or chemically. Temperature is a particular example of a physical treatment.

[0109] Chemical treatments that can be cited include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers that may be nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric.

[0110] Preferably, the polysaccharides are not chemically or physically treated.

[0111] The non-ionic guar gums that can be used according to the invention can be modified by (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C6.

[0112] Among the (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C6, we can cite, for example, the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0113] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0114] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

[0115] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.

[0116] Among the starches that can be used, one can cite, for example, macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising basic units that are anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their arrangement allow one to distinguish amylose (a linear polymer) from amylopectin (a branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches.

[0117] The botanical origin of the starch molecules that can be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from maize starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0118] Starches can be modified chemically or physically, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

[0119] Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferably be used, for example the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized cassava hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized cassava acetyl distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized maize distarch phosphate).

[0120] According to the invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of the carboxylic, phosphate, or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amine type.

[0121] The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potatoes.

[0122] Starches may optionally be hydroxyalkylated at Ci-C6 or acylated at Ci-C6 (such as acetylated). Starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

[0123] The polysaccharide may be cellulose-based polymers not comprising a Cio-C3o fatty chain in their structure.

[0124] According to the invention, the expression "cellulose-based polymer" means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0125] Thus, the cellulose polymers that can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

[0126] Among these cellulose-based polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers.

[0127] Cellulose esters include mineral cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetobutyrates, acetopropionates and acetotrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic / mineral cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetobutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetopropionate sulfates. Examples of cellulose ester ethers include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0128] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C10-C30 fatty chain, i.e., which are "non-associative", examples include (C10-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C10-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR supplied by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C10-C4)alkyl-(C10-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical); hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Akzo Nobel's Bermocoll E 481 FQ) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0129] Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fat chain, (poly)carboxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts may be mentioned. By way of example, carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and their sodium salts, may be mentioned.

[0130] Among cationic cellulose ethers without a fat chain, cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, may be mentioned, such as (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl celluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Commercial products corresponding to this definition are, in particular, the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the National Starch company.

[0131] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, can, for example, vary from 0.4 to 1.2.

[0132] Among the non-associative thickening polymers not bearing sugar units that can be used according to the invention, homopolymers or cross-linked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid copolymers, cross-linked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their cross-linked acrylamide copolymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers, or ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers, alone or in mixtures.

[0133] A first family of non-associative thickening polymers that can be used is represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.

[0134] Non-associative thickening polymers can also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as the polymer sold under the name Aqua SF1 by the company Noveon.

[0135] Non-associative thickening polymers can be selected from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers.

[0136] Among the partially or totally neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide, particular mention may be made of the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853, and reference may be made to said document concerning these polymers.

[0137] The composition may also include, as non-associative thickening polymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers.

[0138] Cationic thickening polymers of the acrylic type can also be used.

[0139] Among hydrophilic thickening polymers, associative polymers, which are well known to those skilled in the art, can also be mentioned, particularly those of a nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.

[0140] It is known that associative polymers are polymers capable, in aqueous media, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

[0141] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.

[0142] The term "hydrophobic group" means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0143] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also designate a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for example, polybutadiene.

[0144] Examples of anionic-type associative polymers include:

[0145] (a)those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether motif, more particularly those whose hydrophilic motif consists of an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.

[0146] Among these anionic associative polymers, those particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether, and from 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, for example, diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.

[0147] Among these latter polymers, those which are particularly preferred are the crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and stearyl alcohol ether of polyethylene glycol (10 OE) (Steareth-10), in particular those sold by the company CIBA under the names Salcare SC80® and Salcare SC90®, which are aqueous emulsions of 30% of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10 allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10).

[0148] (b)those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic motif of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic motif of the alkyl ester (Ci0-C30) of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type.

[0149] Alkyl esters (in C10-C3O) of unsaturated carboxylic acids which are useful in the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0150] Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to US patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

[0151] Ethylenely unsaturated monomers bearing a sulfonic group are in particular selected from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(Ci-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or totally neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.

[0152] (Meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for example acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acid acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or totally neutralized forms, will be used more preferentially.

[0153] 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), as well as its partially or totally neutralized forms, will be used in particular.

[0154] Polymers of this family may be selected in particular from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154. These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers selected, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, their alkyl [3-substituted] derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0155] Preferred polymers of this family are chosen from among amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.

[0156] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, their alkyl [3-substituted] derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0157] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacryl-amidopropylammonium terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyidimethylmethacryllamidopropylammonium terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate or lauryldimethylmethacryllamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymers are used in particular.

[0158] Amphoteric associative polymers are preferably selected from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic motif. More particularly, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 1.5 to 15 mol%, and even more particularly 1.5 to 6 mol% of fatty chain monomer relative to the total number of mol of monomers are preferred.

[0159] Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98 / 44012.

[0160] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, those that are preferred are the acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.

[0161] Preferably, the polyether polyurethanes comprise at least two types of hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block. The hydrocarbon-based chains may be side chains or chains at the ends of the hydrophilic block. In particular, one or more side chains may be used. Furthermore, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

[0162] Polyurethane polyethers can be multiblock, particularly in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (e.g., a triblock copolymer with a central hydrophilic block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (e.g., a multiblock copolymer). These same polymers can also be grafted polymers or star polymers.

[0163] Nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers can be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers include a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.

[0164] By extension, non-ionic fatty chain polyether polyurethanes are also included those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

[0165] It is even more particularly preferred to use a polyurethane polyether which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0166] Preferably, the hydrophilic thickener(s) is / are chosen from polysaccharides. More preferably, the hydrophilic thickener(s) is / are chosen from cellulose-based polymers. Even more preferably, the hydrophilic thickener(s) is / are chosen from nonionic cellulose ethers.

[0167] The hydrophilic thickener(s) is / are in particular selected from (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl-(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.

[0168] The quantity of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.15% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] The quantity of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less and, more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0170] The quantity of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0171] (Optional ingredients) - Fatty amine or its salt

[0172] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one fatty amine or one of its salts. Two or more different types of fatty amines or their salts may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty amine or one of its salts, or a combination of different types of fatty amines or their salts, may be used.

[0173] The fatty amine may have a substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon group such as an alkyl group, which may have from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. The substituent may be a hydroxyl group or a polyoxyalkylene group.

[0174] The fatty amine can be in the form of a primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine.

[0175] The fatty amine can be chosen from among the alkylamidoamines, which can be C6-22 alkylamido or C6-6 dialkylamines. The alkylamidoamines can be represented by the following formula (I):

[0176] RCONH(CH2)n NR*R2 (I)

[0177] in which

[0178] - RCO designates an acyl group, which may have carbon atoms in C6-22, such as such as stearoyl, behenoyl, palmitoyl and cocoyl,

[0179] - R1 and R2 independently denote an alkyl group at C,6 such that a group methyl and an ethyl group, and

[0180] - n denotes an integer from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3, and more preferably 2 or 3.

[0181] The fatty amine may be selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide, dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, ethoxylated stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine and arachidylbehenylamine.

[0182] The salt of the fatty amine is not limited. Fatty amine salts may be selected from halogens, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, citrates, lactates, and alkyl sulfates. For example, fatty amine salts may be selected from stearylamine hydrochloride, soyamine chloride, stearylamine formate, N-suifpropanediamine dichloride, and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine citrate.

[0183] The fatty amine can be chosen from among the alkylamidoamines, preferably the C6-22 alkylamido Ci 6 dialkylamines, and more preferably can be stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

[0184] The quantity of the fatty amine(s) or of a salt or their salts in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0185] The quantity of the fatty amine(s) or of a salt or their salts in the composition according to the present invention may be 8% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0186] The quantity of the fatty amine(s) or of a salt or their salts in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. - Monovalent C2-4 alcohol

[0187] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one monovalent C2-4 alcohol. Two or more different types of monovalent C2-4 alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of monovalent C2-4 alcohol or a combination of different types of monovalent C2-4 alcohols may be used.

[0188] Monovalent C2 4 alcohol is not a fatty alcohol or a higher alcohol.

[0189] The term "monovalent" alcohol here means an alcohol having a hydroxy group.

[0190] Monovalent C2 4 alcohol can be non-aromatic (aliphatic).

[0191] The monovalent C2 4 alcohol is preferably a monovalent aliphatic alcohol in C2.4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. Preferred monovalent C2.4 alcohols are ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0192] The amount of monovalent C2.4 alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] The amount of monovalent C2.4 alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0194] The quantity of monovalent alcohol(s) in C2.4 in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. - Other optional ingredients

[0195] The composition according to the present invention may or may not include any optional ingredient or adjuvant conventionally used in cosmetics for keratinous material such as skin, in particular scalp, and hair, such as cosmetically acceptable organic solvents; inorganic or organic powders; anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers (other than ingredient (d)), or mixtures thereof; anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric surfactants; lipophilic thickening agents; dyes; other cosmetic active agents; perfumes; pH correctors, preservatives; and opacifying agents.

[0196] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0197] In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention does not include water or includes water in a small amount. For example, the composition according to the present invention may comprise water in an amount of 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 3% by weight or less, and even more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the The composition according to the present invention is free of water. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be anhydrous. [Composition]

[0198] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients above in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to a person skilled in the art.

[0199] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be from 3 to 8, preferably from 3.5 to 7 and, more preferably, from 4 to 6.

[0200] The composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a fluid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid, at ambient temperature such as 25 °C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa).

[0201] The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous material, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the scalp and / or hair.

[0202] The composition according to the present invention can be used for skin care, in particular for the scalp. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a scalp conditioner.

[0203] The composition according to the present invention can also be used for hair care. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a hair conditioner.

[0204] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention may exhibit a property of transforming from a liquid form to a creamy form upon contact with water. This property is preferred by consumers because it can provide a comfortable texture when applied to keratinous material, such as the scalp and hair. The transforming property can be achieved with the specific formulation of the present invention, in particular the polyol-based formulation with fatty substances, such as (b) and (c) fatty alcohols. The optional fatty amine ingredient or its salt may also contribute to this property.

[0205] The composition according to the present invention may be of the no-rinse or rinse-off type. The no-rinse composition is not removed by rinsing after being used on a keratinous material. The rinse-off composition is removed by rinsing after being used on a keratinous material.

[0206] For example, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a lotion, a spray, a tonic and the like.

[0207] The composition according to the present invention can also be used as an ampoule in which the composition according to the present invention is poured into a bottle preferably with a cap with a nozzle.

[0208] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 55% to 90% by weight of (a) at least one polyol selected from glycols; b. from 0.1% to 20% by weight of (b) at least one saturated fatty alcohol selected from saturated fatty alcohols comprising a saturated linear fatty radical containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms; c. 0.1% to 15% of (c) at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol selected from unsaturated fatty alcohols comprising a linear fatty acid radical containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, preferably 1 or 2 carbon-carbon double bonds, and more preferably one carbon-carbon double bond; and d. 0.1% to 3% by weight of (d) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from polymers bearing sugar units, preferably cellulose-based polymers, more preferably nonionic cellulose ethers.

[0209] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 65% to 80% by weight of (a) at least one polyol selected from caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; b. 2% to 5% by weight of (b) at least one saturated fatty alcohol chosen from lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof; c. 1% to 5% of (c) at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol selected from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof; and

[0210] (d) from 0.2% to 1% by weight of (d) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; or mixed (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl-(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof. [Cosmetic process]

[0211] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratinous material, such as the scalp or hair, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material.

[0212] The composition according to the present invention can be applied to the scalp / hair by first applying it to the hands and then bringing it into contact with the scalp / hair using the hands. In another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can be applied directly to the scalp / hair by spraying, for example. In other embodiments, the composition according to the present invention can be applied to the scalp / hair using an applicator or device, such as a brush or nozzle.

[0213] The composition according to the present invention can be applied to a keratinous material such as the scalp and hair, for a leave-in treatment or a rinse-off treatment.

[0214] In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a scalp or hair care composition or as a scalp or hair revitalizing composition. [Use]

[0215] The present invention may also relate to the use of a combination of (b) at least one saturated fatty alcohol and (c) at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol in a composition comprising:

[0216] (a) at least one polyol; and

[0217] (d) at least one hydrophilic thickener

[0218] in which

[0219] the quantity of (a) polyol is 50% by weight or more, preferably 55% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0220] in order to stabilize the composition.

[0221] The term “stabilize” here may mean making the composition stable so that it can be stored even under cold or hot conditions without causing crystallization and / or solidification.

[0222] The explanations of ingredients (a) to (d) above for the composition according to the present invention can also be applied to ingredients (a) to (d) above for use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0223] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are given as non-limiting illustrations within the field of the invention. Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 [Preparations]

[0224] The following compositions according to Example 1 (Ex. 1) and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 (Ex. comp. 1 and 2), shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components indicated in Table 1 at room temperature. Unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​of the quantities of the components indicated in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials. [Reviews]

[0225] (Stability)

[0226] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, in a quantity of 100 g immediately after preparation, was loaded into a transparent glass container at room temperature (25 °C). Each composition was then stored at 25 °C, 45 °C, and 10 °C, respectively, for two months. The appearance of each composition was then visually assessed according to the following criteria.

[0227] OK: No crystallization was observed.

[0228] NG: Crystallization has been observed.

[0229] (Transformation property)

[0230] The transformation property was evaluated by applying each of the compositions to SA-20 Chinese hair strands. Five experts applied the composition to the hair strands, and when the composition transformed from a liquid form to a creamy form, the composition was considered to have the transformation property.

[0231] (Cosmetic performance)

[0232] Cosmetic performance is measured on bleached human hair strands, which allows the hair fiber to be evaluated after application of the product.

[0233] These hair strands were evaluated by five experts, who provided a precise assessment regarding their detangling, coating, smooth texture, and shine properties. Hair strands after treatment with each of the compositions have The samples were prepared by applying 1 g of the composition to 2.7 g of hair. After combing the hair twice with two fingers, the composition was rinsed out, and then excess water was squeezed out to obtain a treated wet hair sample. The wet hair sample was then dried with a hairdryer to obtain a treated dry hair sample. The detangling, coating, and smoothing properties were evaluated with both wet and dry hair samples, and the shine was evaluated with the dry hair samples.

[0234] The cosmetic aspects of detangling, coating, smooth texture, and shine properties were evaluated in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2. Each of the five experts assigned a score of -3 (very poor), -2 (poor), -1 (slightly poor), 0 (fair), +1 (slightly good), +2 (good), or +3 (very good). These averages are shown in Table 1.

[0235] The results are summarized in Table 1.

[0236] [Table 1] Table 1 Ex. 1 Ex. comp. 1 Ex. comp. 2 Propylene Glycol qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Ethanol 19 19 19 Oleyl Alcohol 2 - 2 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine 2 2 2 Myristyl Alcohol 1.5 1.5 1.5 Cetyl Alcohol 1 1 1 Cetearyl Alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 pH Adjuster qs pH=5 qs pH=5 qs pH=5 Hydroxypropyl Cellulose 0.3 0.3 - Stability 25 °C OK OK OK 45 °C OK OK OK 10 °C OK NG OK Transformation OK OK OK Cosmetic Performance on Wet Hair Detangling +1.5 0 -1 Smooth Texture +2 -1 -2 Coating +3 0 -1 Cosmetic performance on dry hair: Detangling +1.5 -0.5 -0.5 Smooth texture +2 -1 -2 Coating +3 0 -2 Shine +2 -0.5 -0.5

[0237] The compositions according to Example 1, which correspond to the present invention, show superior stability, in terms of non-crystallization, even under cold and hot conditions. Furthermore, the composition according to Example 1 has been shown to offer improved cosmetic performance for hair.

[0238] The compositions according to Comparative Example 1, which do not include unsaturated fatty alcohols, were not stable and therefore crystallized. Also, the compositions according to Comparative Example 1 did not provide sufficient cosmetic performance, such as good detangling, coating, smooth texture, and shine properties.

[0239] The compositions according to Comparative Example 2, which do not include a hydrophilic thickener, did not offer sufficient cosmetic performance, such as good detangling, coating, smooth texture and shine properties.

[0240] Thus, it can be concluded that the composition according to the present invention is particularly suitable and useful as a treatment and / or care composition for keratinous material, preferably for the scalp and hair.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition comprising: (a) at least one polyol; (b) at least one saturated fatty alcohol; (c) at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol; and (d) at least one hydrophilic thickener wherein the (a) polyol is 50% by weight or more, preferably 55% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein (a) polyol is selected from glycols, preferably selected from the group consisting of caprylyl glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably is propylene glycol.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the (b) saturated fatty alcohol is selected from saturated fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) saturated fatty alcohol comprises two or more types of (b) saturated fatty alcohols, and preferably three or more types of (b) saturated fatty alcohols.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein (c) unsaturated fatty alcohol is selected from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of the (c) unsaturated fatty alcohol(s) in the composition ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (d) hydrophilic thickener is selected from polymers bearing sugar motifs, preferably cellulose-based polymers, more preferably ethers of non-ionic cellulose, and even more preferably (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; or mixed (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl-(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of the hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition is from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition comprises water in an amount of 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 3% by weight or less, and even more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition is free of water.

10. Cosmetic process for treating keratinous material, such as scalp and hair, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on the keratinous material.