COMPOSITION AND REVITALIZATION PROCESS OF KERATIN FIBERS

Abstract

COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR REVITALIZING KERATIN FIBER The present invention relates to a silicone-free composition, preferably for revitalizing keratin fibers, comprising: a) at least one fatty amidoamine; b) at least one acid with at least two carboxyl groups and at least two hydroxyl groups; and c) at least 1% by weight of at least one unsaturated glyceride, relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a process for revitalizing keratin fibers comprising applying a composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION AND REVITALIZATION PROCESS OF KERATIN FIBERS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition and its use. In particular, the present invention relates to a keratin fiber revitalization composition. The present invention also relates to a keratin fiber revitalization process. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Keratin fibers, particularly hair, tend to lose some of their qualities under the influence of various factors such as natural re-oiling, perspiration, shedding of dander, pollution, or humidity. The visual appearance and feel of the fibers can be degraded as a result. Re-oiling, for example, makes the fibers dull, which then tend to clump together. The hair can then be more difficult to style and have an unpleasant greasy shine and / or a waxy feel.

[0003] It is common to use detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos to wash keratin fibers, such as hair. These compositions are generally applied to the keratin fibers, which are preferably wet, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a washcloth allows, after rinsing with water, the removal of the various types of dirt initially present on the hair.

[0004] In fact, consumers are looking for stable conditioning compositions that have improved conditioning properties, particularly in terms of delivering softness and smooth texture to the hair.

[0005] Thus, there is always a need for a stable keratin fiber revitalizing composition, which can make hair smooth and / or soft.

[0006] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0007] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0008] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good carbon index. naturalness and / or materials of natural origin, and more particularly, materials of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds. Summary of the invention

[0009] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a stable keratin fiber revitalizing composition, which can make hair smooth and / or soft.

[0010] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a silicone-free composition, preferably for revitalizing keratin fibers, comprising: a. at least one fatty amidoamine; b. at least one acid with at least two carboxyl groups and at least two hydroxyl groups; and c. at least 1% by weight of at least one unsaturated glyceride, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] The inventors discovered that after application to the hair, the composition according to the present invention can make the hair smooth and soft.

[0012] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a process for revitalizing keratin fibers comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.

[0013] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and will be partly evident from the description or may be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0014] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between... and..." and "from... to...".

[0015] As used herein, the terms "comprising", "containing" and "including" should be interpreted as encompassing all the features specifically mentioned as well as those optional, additional, unspecified.

[0016] As used herein, the use of the terms "comprising", "containing" and "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the features specifically mentioned are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0017] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly accepted by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly accepted by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall prevail.

[0018] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be modified according to the desired performance as required.

[0019] As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0020] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0021] As used herein, the expression "silicone-free" means that the composition contains less than 2% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, of silicone, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone, relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably that it contains no silicone at all. Where applicable, the small amount of silicone may be supplied by ingredients in the composition that contain it in residual quantities but are not deliberately supplied.

[0022] As used herein, the expression "keratin fibres" refers in particular to human keratin fibres, such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, more preferably hair.

[0023] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" refers to head hair. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes.

[0024] According to the first aspect, the composition, preferably for revitalizing keratin fibers, according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one fatty amidoamine; b. at least one acid with at least two carboxyl groups and at least two hydroxyl groups; and c. at least 1% by weight of at least one unsaturated glyceride, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty amidomines

[0025] The term “amidoamine” designates a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0026] The expression "fatty amidoamine" refers to an amidoamine comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0027] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not quaternized.

[0028] More preferably, fatty T amidoamine is chosen from among fatty tertiary amidoamines.

[0029] Preferably, fatty ramidoamine is chosen from compounds represented by formula (I):

[0030] R1C(O)NH-(CH2)x-NR2R3(I)

[0031] in which

[0032] - R represents a linear or branched alkyl at C5-29;

[0033] - R2 and R3, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom, or an alkyl group linear or branched in Cl-6, and at least one of R2 and R3 is not hydrogen,

[0034] - x = 1 to 8.

[0035] Preferably, Ri is a linear or branched alkyl in C10-24, more preferably, a linear or branched alkyl in Cl2-22.

[0036] Non-limiting examples of Ri are the C12 alkyl (lauryl), the C13 alkyl, the C14 alkyl (myristyle), the C15 alkyl, the C16 alkyl (cetyl or palmityl), the C17 alkyl, the C18 alkyl (stearyl), the C19 alkyl, the C20 alkyl (arachidyl), the C21 alkyl, the C22 alkyl (behenyl) and the isomer of these groups, such as isostearyl.

[0037] Preferably, R2 and R3, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Cl-4 alkyl.

[0038] Non-limiting examples of linear or branched Cl-4 alkyls are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl.

[0039] Preferably, R2 and R3, each independently, represent a linear or branched Cl-3 alkyl, and more preferably, R2 and R3, each independently, represent a Cl-2 alkyl.

[0040] Preferably, x is from 2 to 4, more preferably 2 or 3.

[0041] Preferably, fatty amidoamine is chosen from among the amidopropylamines C8-26 linear or branched fatty acid tertiary and C8-26 linear or branched fatty acid amidoethylamine.

[0042] Non-limiting examples of fatty ramidoamine include behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, isostearamidoethyl dimethylamine, myristamidoethyl dimethylamine, palmitamidoethyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidoethyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0043] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty amidoamine selected from linear or C12-22 branched tertiary fatty acid amidopropylamines, even more preferably selected from linear C12-22 branched tertiary fatty acid amidopropylamines, such than behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and lauramidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0044] Advantageously, fatty amidoamine is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 15% by weight, most preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Acids with at least two carboxyl groups and at least two groups hydroxyl

[0046] Preferably, the acid with at least two carboxyl groups and at least two hydroxyl groups is chosen from the carboxylic acids of formula (II) below: O '] OH (II) (O HO O

[0047] in which:

[0048] - A represents a group based on saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons, cyclic or non-cyclic cyclic and aromatic or non-aromatic comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, which is versatile and substituted by at least two hydroxyl groups;

[0049] - n represents an integer between 1 and 5.

[0050] More preferably, in formula (II), A represents a polyvalent Cr C6 alkylene group substituted by at least two hydroxyl groups; n represents 1 or 2.

[0051] More preferably, the acid is chosen from among the carboxylic acids of formula (III) below:

[0052] in which, m represents an integer between 0 and 4;

[0053] More preferably still, in formula (III), m is equal to 0 or 1.

[0054] Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises tartaric acid.

[0055] Advantageously, the acid with at least two carboxyl groups and at least two hydroxyl groups is present in the composition according to the present invention in one quantity ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 5% by weight, most preferably from 0.3% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Unsaturated glycerides

[0056] As used herein, the term "unsaturated glyceride" includes esters of unsaturated fatty acids and glycerin.

[0057] Esters can be monoesters, diesters or triesters.

[0058] Non-limiting examples of unsaturated glycerides include glyceryl erucate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl sesquioleate, or mixtures thereof.

[0059] Preferably, the unsaturated glyceride is chosen from the esters of at least one unsaturated fatty acid containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerin.

[0060] More preferably, the unsaturated glyceride is chosen from the esters of at least one unsaturated fatty acid containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms and glycerin.

[0061] The unsaturated fatty acid can be linear or branched.

[0062] More preferably, the unsaturated glyceride is chosen from the esters of at least one unsaturated linear fatty acid containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms and glycerin.

[0063] More preferably, the unsaturated glyceride is chosen from monoesters of at least one unsaturated linear fatty acid containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms and glycerin.

[0064] According to some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises glyceryl oleate.

[0065] Advantageously, the unsaturated glyceride is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty alcohols

[0066] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol.

[0067] The expression "fatty alcohol" means an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylated (in particular neither oxyethylated, nor oxypropylated), nor glycerolated.

[0068] Fatty alcohols can be represented by R-OH, in which R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, Preference for 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially for 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferentially for 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0069] Non-limiting examples of useful fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol; myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms include C14-22 alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0071] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols selected from C14-22 alcohols, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and one of their mixtures.

[0072] Advantageously, the fatty alcohol is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, most preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water

[0073] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise water.

[0074] Advantageously, water is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 40% by weight to 98% by weight, preferably from 50% by weight to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Active cosmetic ingredients

[0075] The composition according to the present invention may further include one or more additional active ingredients for the revitalization of keratin fibers, such as oils, cationic polymers, etc.

[0076] A person skilled in the art can select the quantity of additional active ingredients according to the desired objective. Adjuvants

[0077] The composition according to the present invention may also include additional adjuvants, such as perfumes, preservatives, and so on.

[0078] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0079] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 2% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one fatty amidoamine chosen from among the linear C12-22 fatty acid tertiary amidopropylamines; b. from 0.3% by weight to 3% by weight of tartaric acid; and c. 1% by weight to 5% by weight of glyceryl oleate.

[0080] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not include quaternary ammonium compounds. Preparation and use

[0081] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a), b) and c), as essential ingredients, together with one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.

[0082] The method and means for mixing the above ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0083] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a leave-on or rinse-off conditioner.

[0084] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a process for revitalizing keratin fibers comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.

[0085] In particular, keratin fibers are hair.

[0086] Preferably, the process further includes massaging the keratin fibers after applying the above-mentioned composition to the keratin fibers.

[0087] Preferably, the process further includes rinsing the keratin fibers with water, preferably at 15-50°C, after massaging the keratin fibers. EXAMPLES

[0088] The examples provided herein are provided by way of illustration to demonstrate the present invention and are not intended to limit its scope.

[0089] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0090] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Stearamidopropyl dim ethylamine (Stearamid) GENADVANCE SPA Clariant Polypropyl dimethylamine e) Tartaric acid (E334 Natural L+ Tartaric Acid Giovann Randi Glyceryl oleate (Glyceryl oleate) MONOMULS 90-0 18 BASF Dimethicone (Dimethicone) BELSIL DM 60000 WACKER

[0091] Inventive Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6

[0092] The compositions of inventive examples (El) 1 to 3 and comparative examples (EC) 1 to 6 were prepared according to the quantities of ingredients given in Table 2. The quantity of each ingredient is given as % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in which MA means active substance.

[0093] [Tables2] Ingredients El. 1 El. 2 El. 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC.4 EC.5 EC.6 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 3 3 8 3 3 3 0 8 3 Behentrimonium chloride 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 0 0 Tartaric acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0 0.5 0.5 Cetearyl alcohol 5 5 0 5 5 5 5 0 5 Glyceryl oleate 2 (MA) 1 (MA) 2 (MA) 0 0 2 (MA) 2 (MA) 0 0.1 (MA) Dimethicone 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 Water QS P 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100

[0094] *QSP100 denotes a quantity sufficient to complete to 100%.

[0095] The compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 represent the compositions according to the present invention.

[0096] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one unsaturated glyceride.

[0097] The composition of comparative example 2 includes silicone instead of at least one unsaturated glyceride.

[0098] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include at least one acid with at least two carboxyl groups and at least two hydroxyl groups.

[0099] The composition of comparative example 4 includes behentrimonium chloride instead of at least one fatty amidoamine.

[0100] The composition of comparative example 5 does not include at least one unsaturated glyceride.

[0101] The composition of comparative example 6 comprises only 0.1% by weight of at least one unsaturated glyceride, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] Preparation procedure:

[0103] The above compositions were prepared according to the following steps: 1. Dissolving tartaric acid (if applicable) in water at a temperature of 65°C; 2. Add stearamidopropyl dimethylamine or behentrimonium chloride to the system, stir until completely dissolved; 3. Adding cetearyl alcohol and / or glyceryl oleate and / or silicone to the system with stirring until there are no more solid particles in the solution; 4. homogenization 10 min under high shear at 65°C; 5. Cooling to room temperature. Assessment

[0104] The stability of the compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 5, the smooth texture of the hair and the softness of the hair delivered by them were evaluated. Stability

[0105] The stability of the above-prepared compositions was determined by placing them under different conditions for different durations, as shown in Table 3, respectively, and then evaluating their appearance, viscosity, color and pH value.

[0106] [Tables3] Conditions and Duration: -10°C 24 hours, 4°C 1 month, 2 months, 25°C, 45°C 50°C, 2 weeks, 24-hour sunlight

[0107] If there is no phase separation or perceptible color difference under all conditions, then the composition under test will be considered stable. Otherwise, the composition under test will not be considered stable. Smooth texture and softness

[0108] A selected panel of 5 hair experts was invited to evaluate the smooth texture and softness of the hair delivered by each composition of inventive examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 5 by following the steps below:

[0109] - application of 1.2 g of each test composition on 6 g of hair strands slightly damaged, respectively, after shampooing the hair strands;

[0110] - massage for 2 minutes;

[0111] - rinsing the hair strands with hot water at 40°C for 10 seconds;

[0112] - notation of the smooth texture and softness of wet hair respectively in the range of 1 to 5 according to the following standard:

[0113] 5: excellent smooth texture or softness;

[0114] 4: very smooth or very soft;

[0115] 3: light smooth texture or softness;

[0116] 2: poor smooth texture or softness

[0117] 1: very poor smooth texture or softness - blowing on the hair to dry it completely; - rating of the smooth texture and softness of dry hair in the range from 1 to 5 according to the above standard.

[0118] The average scores were calculated for each composition with regard to smooth texture and softness respectively.

[0119] The results on the smooth texture and softness of the hair delivered by the compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 6 have been summarized in Table 4.

[0120] [Tables4] Properties EI.l EL2 EL3 EC.l EC.2 EC.3 EC.4 EC.5 EC.6 Stability Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes No Yes Yes Yes Wet Hair Texture 1 Smooth 5.0 4.6 4.2 2.4 2.6 1.0 2.4 2.8 2.4 Softness 5.0 4.6 4.2 2.4 2.8 0.8 2.4 2.8 2.5 Dry Hair Texture 1 Smooth 5.0 4.6 4.2 2.4 3.4 0.5 2.4 2.6 2.3 Softness 5.0 4.6 4.2 2.6 3.0 0.8 2.4 2.8 2.5

[0121] It can be seen from Table 4 that each composition of inventive examples 1 to 3 can deliver to the hair a good smooth texture and good softness.

Claims

Demands

1. Silicone-free composition, preferably keratin fiber revitalizing, comprising: a) at least one fatty amidoamine; b) at least one acid with at least two carboxyl groups and at least two hydroxyl groups; and c) at least 1% by weight of at least one unsaturated glyceride, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty amidoamine is selected from fatty tertiary amidoamines, preferably selected from the compounds represented by the formula (I): R^ONH-CCH^x-NR^a) in which - R1 represents a linear or branched C5-29 alkyl; - R2 and R3, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched Cl-6 alkyl, and at least one of R2 and R3 is not hydrogen, - x = 1 to 8.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fatty amidoamine is selected from linear or C12-22 branched fatty acid tertiary amidopropylamines, preferably selected from linear Cl2-22 fatty acid tertiary amidopropylamines, more preferably selected from behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and lauramidopropyl dimethylamine.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the acid with at least two carboxyl groups and at least two hydroxyl groups is selected from the carboxylic acids of formula (II) below: [OH(II) rfA—< 0) HO O _ JO in which:]

5. - A represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, which is versatile and substituted by at least two hydroxyl groups; - n represents an integer between 1 and 5. Composition according to claims 1 to 4, wherein the acid is selected from the carboxylic acids of formula (III) below:

6.

7.

8. in which, m represents an integer between 0 and 4, preferably 0 or 1. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the unsaturated glyceride is selected from esters of at least one unsaturated fatty acid containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerin, preferably selected from esters of at least one linear unsaturated fatty acid containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms and glycerin, more preferably selected from monoesters of at least one linear unsaturated fatty acid containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms and glycerin. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: a) from 2% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one fatty amidoamine chosen from linear Cl2-22 fatty acid tertiary amidopropylamines; b) from 0.3 wt% to 3 wt% of tartaric acid; and c) from 1 wt% to 5 wt% of glyceryl oleate. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising at least one fatty alcohol represented by: R-OH, in which R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising water.

10. Keratin fiber revitalization process comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to keratin fibers.