COMPOSITION AND PROCESS OF KERATIN FIBERS REVITALIZATION

Abstract

COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR REVITALIZING KERATIN FIBERS The present invention relates to a composition for revitalizing keratin fibers, comprising a) at least one fatty amidoamine; b) at least one unsaturated glyceride; and c) at least one acylaminated acid salt. The present invention relates to a method for revitalizing keratin fibers comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR REVITALIZING KERATIN FIBERS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for revitalizing keratin fibers and its use. The present invention also relates to a method for revitalizing keratin fibers, such as hair. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Keratin fibers, particularly hair, tend to lose some of their qualities under the influence of various factors such as natural re-oiling, perspiration, shedding of dander, pollution, or humidity. The visual appearance and feel of the fibers can be degraded. Re-oiling, for example, makes the fibers dull, which then tend to clump together. The hair can then be more difficult to style and have an unpleasant greasy shine and / or waxy feel.

[0003] It is common to use detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos to wash keratin fibers, such as hair. These compositions are generally applied to the keratin fibers, which are preferably wet, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a washcloth allows, after rinsing with water, the removal of the various types of dirt initially present on the hair.

[0004] Thus, there is still a need for a keratin fiber revitalizing composition, which can make hair smooth and / or soft.

[0005] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0006] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0007] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a high naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin, and more specifically, materials of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds. Summary of the invention

[0008] An object of the present invention is thus to develop a keratin fiber revitalizing composition, which can make hair smooth and / or soft.

[0009] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a keratin fiber revitalization composition comprising: a. at least one fatty amidoamine; b. at least one unsaturated glyceride; and c. at least one acylaminated acid salt.

[0010] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention makes hair smooth and soft.

[0011] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a method for revitalizing keratin fibers comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.

[0012] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and will be partly evident from the description or may be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0013] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between... and..." and "from... to...".

[0014] As used herein, the terms "comprising", "containing" and "including" should be interpreted as encompassing all the features specifically mentioned as well as those optional, additional, unspecified.

[0015] As used herein, the use of the terms "comprising", "containing" and "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the features specifically mentioned are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0016] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly accepted by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly accepted by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall prevail.

[0017] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be modified according to the desired performance obtained as required.

[0018] As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0019] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0020] As used herein, the expression "keratin fibers" refers in particular to human keratin fibers, such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, more preferably hair.

[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" refers to head hair. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes.

[0022] According to the first aspect, the keratin fiber revitalization composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one fatty amidoamine; b. at least one unsaturated glyceride; and c. at least one acylaminated acid salt. Fatty amino acids

[0023] The term “amidoamine” designates a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0024] The expression "fatty amidoamine" refers to an amidoamine comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain.

[0025] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not quaternized.

[0026] More preferably, fatty T amidoamine is chosen from among fatty tertiary amidoamines.

[0027] Preferably, fatty T amidoamine is chosen from the compounds represented by formula (I):

[0028] RiC(O)NH-(CH2)x-NR2R3(I)

[0029] in which

[0030] - R represents a linear or branched alkyl at C5-29;

[0031] - R2 and R3, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl in Cl-6, and at least one of R2 and R3 is not hydrogen,

[0032] - x=l to 8.

[0033] Preferably, Ri is a linear or branched C10-24 alkyl, more preferably, Ri is a linear or branched C12-22 alkyl.

[0034] Non-limiting examples of Ri are the C12 alkyl (lauryl), the C13 alkyl, the C14 alkyl (myristyle), the C15 alkyl, the C16 alkyl (cetyl or palmityl), the C17 alkyl, the C18 alkyl (stearyl), the C19 alkyl, the C20 alkyl (arachidyl), the C21 alkyl, the C22 alkyl (behenyl) and the isomer of these groups, such as isostearyl.

[0035] Preferably, R2 and R3, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Cl-4 alkyl.

[0036] Non-limiting examples of linear or branched Cl-4 alkyl groups are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl.

[0037] Preferably, R2 and R3, each independently, represent a linear or branched Cl-3 alkyl, and more preferably, R2 and R3, each independently, represent a Cl-2 alkyl.

[0038] Preferably, x is worth from 2 to 4, more preferably, x is worth 2 or 3.

[0039] Preferably, fatty amidoamine is chosen from among the amidopropylamines C8-26 linear or branched fatty acid tertiary compounds and C8-26 linear or branched fatty acid amidoethylamines

[0040] Non-limiting examples of fatty amidoamine include behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidoethyl dimethylamine, isostearamidoethyl dimethylamine, myristamidoethyl dimethylamine, palmitamidoethyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidoethyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] More preferably, the composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty amidoamine selected from linear or C12-22 branched fatty acid tertiary amidopropylamines, even more preferably selected from linear Cl2-22 fatty acid tertiary amidopropylamines, such as behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and lauramidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0042] Advantageously, fatty amidoamine is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1% by weight to 15% by weight, most preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Unsaturated glycerides

[0043] As used herein, the term "unsaturated glyceride" includes esters of unsaturated fatty acids and glycerin.

[0044] Esters can be monoesters, diesters or triesters.

[0045] Non-limiting examples of unsaturated glycerides include glyceryl erucate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl sesquioleate, or mixtures thereof.

[0046] Preferably, the unsaturated glyceride is chosen from the esters of at least one unsaturated fatty acid containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerin.

[0047] More preferably, the unsaturated glyceride is chosen from the esters of at least one unsaturated fatty acid containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms and glycerin.

[0048] The unsaturated fatty acid can be linear or branched.

[0049] More preferably, the unsaturated glyceride is chosen from the esters of at least one unsaturated linear fatty acid containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms and glycerin.

[0050] More preferably, the unsaturated glyceride is chosen from monoesters of at least one unsaturated linear fatty acid containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms and glycerin.

[0051] According to some preferred embodiments, the composition used in the process of the present invention comprises glyceryl oleate.

[0052] Advantageously, the unsaturated glyceride is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Acylamine acid salts

[0053] Preferably, the acylaminated acid salt is chosen from acylglycinates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, and mixtures thereof, the acyl of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 22, more preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0054] The salts may be alkali metal salts (in particular sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metal salts (such as magnesium), or mixtures thereof.

[0055] More preferably, the acylaminated acid salt is chosen from acylsarcosinates, acylglycinates, and mixtures thereof, in which the acyl group includes 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0056] More preferably, the acylamine acid salt is chosen from among the acylsarcosinates, the acyl group being a linear acyl group including 10 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0057] Most preferably, the composition used in the process of the present invention comprises sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinate.

[0058] Advantageously, the acylaminated acid salt is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty alcohols

[0059] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol.

[0060] The expression "fatty alcohol" means an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylated (in particular neither oxyethylated, nor oxypropylated), nor glycerolated.

[0061] Fatty alcohols can be represented by R-OH, in which R designates a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0062] Non-limiting examples of useful fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol; myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms include C14-22 alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0064] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols selected from C14-22 alcohols, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and one of their mixtures.

[0065] Advantageously, the fatty alcohol is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, most preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water

[0066] The composition of the present invention may further include water.

[0067] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 98% by weight, preferably from 60% by weight to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Active cosmetic ingredients

[0068] The composition of the present invention may further include one or more additional active ingredients for revitalizing keratin fibers.

[0069] The person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional active ingredients according to the desired objective. Adjuvants

[0070] The composition of the present invention may also include additional adjuvants, such as perfumes, preservatives, and so on.

[0071] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0072] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0073] a) from 2% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one fatty amidoamine surfactant selected from linear C12-22 fatty acid tertiary amidopropylamines;

[0074] b) from 1% by weight to 5% by weight of glyceryl oleate; and

[0075] c) from 0.15% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one salt of acylamine acid selected among the acylsarcosinates, the acyl group being a linear acyl group including 10 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0076] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is free of silicone.

[0077] As used herein, the expression "silicone-free" means that the composition contains less than 2% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, of silicone, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone, relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably that it contains no silicone at all. Where applicable, the small amount of silicone may be supplied by ingredients in the composition that contain it in residual quantities but are not deliberately supplied.

[0078] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not comprise a quaternary ammonium compound. Preparation and use

[0079] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a), b) and c), as essential ingredients, together with one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.

[0080] The method and means for mixing the above ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above ingredients to prepare the composition used in the method according to the present invention.

[0081] The composition according to the present invention can be used as a leave-on or rinse-off conditioner.

[0082] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a method for revitalizing keratin fibers comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.

[0083] In particular, keratin fibers are hair.

[0084] Preferably, the process further includes massaging the keratin fibers after applying the above-mentioned composition to the keratin fibers.

[0085] Preferably, the process further includes rinsing the keratin fibers with water, preferably at 15-50°C, after massaging the keratin fibers. EXAMPLES

[0086] The examples provided herein are provided by way of illustration to demonstrate the present invention and are not intended to limit its scope.

[0087] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0088] [Tables] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (Ste aramidopropyl dimethylamine) GENADVANCE SPA Clariant Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate) SP CRODASINIC LS30SN T MBAL-LQ-(RB) Croda Glyceryl oleate (Glyceryl oleate) MONOMULS 90-0 18 BASF Dimethicone (Dimethicone) BELSIL DM 60000 WACKER

[0089] Inventive Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4

[0090] The compositions of the inventive examples (El) 1-3 and the comparative examples (EC) 1-4 were prepared according to the quantities of ingredients given in Table 2. The quantity of each ingredient is given as % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, MA meaning active ingredient.

[0091] [Tables2] Ingredients ELI EI.2 EL3 EC.l EC.2 EC.3 EC.4 Stearamidopropyl dim ethylamine 3 3 8 3 3 0 8 Behentrimonium chloride 0 0 0 0 0 3 0 Citric acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cetearyl alcohol 5 5 0 5 5 5 0 Glyceryl oleate 2 (MA) 2 (MA) 2 (MA) 0 2 (MA) 2 (MA) 2 (MA) Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 0.5 (MA) 0.3 (MA) 0.3 (MA) 0.5 (MA) 0 0.5 (MA) 0 Dimethicone 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 Water QSP1 00 QSP1 00 QSP1 00 QSP1 00 QSP1 00 QSP1 00

[0092] *QSP100 denotes a quantity sufficient to complete to 100%.

[0093] The compositions of Inventive Examples 1-3 represent compositions used in the process of the present invention.

[0094] The composition of Comparative Example 1 includes silicone instead of at least one unsaturated glyceride.

[0095] The composition of Comparative Example 2 does not include at least one acylaminated acid salt.

[0096] The composition of Comparative Example 3 includes behentrimonium chloride instead of at least one fatty amidoamine.

[0097] The composition of Comparative Example 4 does not include at least one acylaminated acid salt.

[0098] Preparation procedure:

[0099] The above compositions were prepared according to the following steps: 1. Dissolving citric acid in water at a temperature of 65°C; 2. Add stearamidopropyl dimethylamine or behentrimonium chloride to the system, stir until completely dissolved; 3. Adding cetearyl alcohol and / or glyceryl oleate and / or silicone to the system with stirring until there are no more solid particles in the solution; 4. homogenization for 10 min under high shear at 65°C; 5. Cooling to room temperature; 6. Add sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, if applicable, and stir until well mixed. Assessment

[0100] A selected panel of 5 hair experts was invited to evaluate the smooth texture and softness of the hair delivered by each composition of Inventive Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 by following the steps below:

[0101] - application of 1.2 g of each test composition to 6 g of hair strands slightly damaged, respectively, after shampooing the hair strands;

[0102] - massage for 2 minutes;

[0103] - rinsing the hair strands with hot water at 40°C for 10 seconds;

[0104] - rating of the smooth texture and softness of wet hair within a range of 1 to 5 according to the following standard:

[0105] 5: excellent smooth texture or softness;

[0106] 4: very smooth or very soft;

[0107] 3: light smooth texture or softness;

[0108] 2: poor smooth texture or softness

[0109] 1: very poor smooth texture or softness - blowing on the hair to dry it completely; - rating of the smooth texture and softness of dry hair in the range from 1 to 5 according to the above standard.

[0110] The average scores were calculated for each composition with regard to smooth texture and softness respectively.

[0111] The results on the smooth texture and softness of the hair delivered by the compositions of Inventive Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 have been summarized in Table 3.

[0112] [Tableaux3] Properties ELI EL2 EI.3 EC.1 EC.2 EC.3 EC.4 Hair texture: smooth 5.0 4.6 4.4 3.0 3.2 3.0 3.0 Hair texture: softness 5.0 4.6 4.4 3.0 3.2 3.0 3.0 Hair texture: smooth 5.0 4.6 4.4 3.6 3.2 3.0 3.0 Hair texture: soft 5.0 4.6 4.4 3.2 3.2 3.0 3.0

[0113] It can be seen from Table 3 that each composition of inventive examples 1 to 3 can give the hair a good smooth texture and good softness.

Claims

Demands

1. Keratin fiber revitalizing composition, comprising: a) at least one fatty amidoamine; b) at least one unsaturated glyceride; and c) at least one acylaminated acid salt.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty amidoamine is selected from fatty tertiary amidoamines, preferably selected from the compounds represented by the formula (I): R^ONH-CCH^x-NR^a) in which - R1 represents a linear or branched C5-29 alkyl; - R2 and R3, each independently, represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched Cl-6 alkyl, and at least one of R2 and R3 is not hydrogen, - x=1 to 8.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the unsaturated glyceride is selected from esters of at least one unsaturated fatty acid containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms and glycerin, preferably selected from esters of at least one linear unsaturated fatty acid containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms and glycerin, more preferably selected from monoesters of at least one linear unsaturated fatty acid containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms and glycerin.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the acylaminated acid salt is selected from acylglycinates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, and mixtures thereof, the acyl of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 22, more preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the acylamine acid salt is selected from acylsarcosinates, the acyl group being a linear acyl group including 10 to 16 carbon atoms, more preferably the composition comprises sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinate.

6. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: a) 2% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one fatty amidoamine selected from linear Cl2-22 fatty acid tertiary amidopropylamines; b) 1% by weight to 5% by weight of glyceryl oleate; and c) 0.15% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one acylamine acid salt selected from acylsarcosinates, the acyl group being a linear acyl group including 10 to 16 carbon atoms.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising at least one fatty alcohol represented by: R-OH, in which R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably the fatty alcohol is present in an amount from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, most preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising water, preferably in an amount from 50% by weight to 98% by weight, more preferably from 60% by weight to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is free of silicone.

10. A method for revitalizing keratin fibers comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratin fibers.