KERATIN FIBER REVITALIZATION COMPOSITION
A composition with C-glycosides, seaweed extract, and oil addresses the issue of uneven coating and lack of softness in keratin fibers, achieving a uniform and smooth hair texture.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024009892
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-07-30
- Filing Date
- 2024-09-17
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-06
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-09-17
AI Technical Summary
Existing keratin fiber revitalizing products often fail to provide a uniform coating from root to tip and do not adequately enhance the softness and smoothness of hair.
A composition comprising C-glycosides, seaweed extract, and oil is applied to keratin fibers to achieve a uniform coating and improve softness and smoothness.
The composition provides a good level of care, ensuring a uniform coating from root to tip and making the hair smooth and soft.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: KERATIN FIBER REVITALIZATION COMPOSITION technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition and its use. In particular, the present invention relates to a keratin fiber revitalization composition. The present invention also relates to a method for revitalizing keratin fibers. STATE OF THE TECHNOLOGY
[0002] Keratin fibers, particularly hair, tend to lose some of their qualities under the influence of various factors such as natural re-oiling, perspiration, shedding of dander, pollution, or humidity. The visual appearance and feel of the fibers can be degraded. Re-oiling, for example, makes the fibers dull, which then tend to clump together. The hair can then be more difficult to style and have an unpleasant greasy shine and / or waxy feel.
[0003] It is common to use detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos to wash keratin fibers, such as hair. These compositions are generally applied to the keratin fibers, which are preferably wet, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a washcloth allows, after rinsing with water, the removal of the various types of dirt initially present on the hair.
[0004] In fact, consumers are looking for revitalizing compositions that have enhanced cosmetic and revitalizing properties.
[0005] However, many formulations on the market cannot form a uniform coating on the hair.
[0006] Some formulations may also not be entirely satisfactory in terms of cosmetic performance, particularly softness and smooth texture of hair.
[0007] Thus, there is still a need for keratin fiber revitalizing products, which can coat the hair evenly from root to tip and / or make the hair smooth and / or soft. Summary of the invention
[0008] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a revitalizing composition of keratin fibers, which can coat the hair uniformly from root to tip and / or make the hair smooth and / or soft.
[0009] Thus, according to the first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for revitalizing keratin fibers, comprising: a. at least one C-glycoside; b. at least one seaweed extract; and c. at least one oil.
[0010] The inventors discovered that after application to the hair, the composition according to the present invention gives the hair a good level of care, in particular a uniform coating from root to tip, and makes the hair smooth and soft.
[0011] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a method for revitalizing keratin fibers comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratin fibers.
[0012] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and will be partly evident from the description or may be learned through practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0013] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between... and..." and "from... to...".
[0014] As used herein, the terms "comprising", "containing" and "including" should be interpreted as encompassing all the features specifically mentioned as well as those optional, additional, unspecified.
[0015] As used herein, the use of the terms "comprising", "containing" and "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the features specifically mentioned are present (i.e., "consisting of").
[0016] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly accepted by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly accepted by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall prevail.
[0017] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values that may be modified according to the desired performance obtained as required.
[0018] As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0019] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.
[0020] The expression "keratin fibers" refers in particular to human keratin fibers, such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, more preferably hair.
[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hair" refers to head hair. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes.
[0022] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one C-glycoside; b. at least one seaweed extract; and c. at least one oil. C-glycosides
[0023] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside.
[0024] Preferably, the C-glycoside is chosen from compounds of formula (I): X-* (I) s---- /
[0025] in which:
[0026] - R represents a saturated alkyl radical in the C1 to C10 position, in particular in the C1 to C4 position, which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a saturated CrC4 alkyl radical,
[0027] - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar motifs, in particular up to 6 sugar motifs, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, knowing that said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and
[0028] - X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, - CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,
[0029] the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be α or [3, and also their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their optical and geometric isomers.
[0030] The C-glycosides used for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R designates a linear alkyl radical saturated in Ci-C6, in particular in C1-C4, preferably in Ci-C2 and more preferably, a methyl radical.
[0031] In particular, alkyl groups suitable for implementing the invention include methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl.
[0032] According to one embodiment of the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used, for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar motifs, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one necessarily free hydroxyl functional group and / or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R otherwise retaining all the above definitions.
[0033] Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention can be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously designates D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.
[0034] More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar motifs can be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which can advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl-[3-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and in particular xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.
[0035] More particularly, S can represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.
[0036] Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) is used, for which:
[0037] - R denotes an alkyl radical in the C1-C4 configuration, in particular a linear unsubstituted C1-C2, including a methyl radical;
[0038] - S represents a monosaccharide as described above and chosen in particular among D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
[0039] - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and, of preferably a -CH(OH)- group.
[0040] Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of inorganic acids such as sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid. Examples also include salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. In particular, examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.
[0041] When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2, or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine, for example, triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; examples include 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol, or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine may also be mentioned.
[0042] Solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
[0043] Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or in a mixture with other C-glycosides and in any proportion.
[0044] A C-glycoside suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis process described in document WO 02 / 051828.
[0045] By way of non-limiting illustration of C-glycoside compounds that are particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be cited in particular:
[0046] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0047] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0048] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
[0049] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
[0050] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0051] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0052] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0053] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,
[0054] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0055] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0056] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0057] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0058] - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0059] - l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0060] - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0061] - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,
[0062] - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0063] - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0064] - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0065] - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,
[0066] - CPD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0067] - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
[0068] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
[0069] - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and mixtures thereof.
[0070] According to one embodiment, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and even better C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can be advantageously used for the composition according to the invention.
[0071] Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol).
[0072] Advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, most preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Algae extracts
[0073] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one seaweed extract.
[0074] As used herein, the expression "algae extract" refers to an extract derived from algae.
[0075] The seaweed extract can be obtained by hot water extraction, acid-base extraction, ultrasound-assisted extraction, microwave-assisted extraction or biological enzymatic extraction.
[0076] Types of "algae" include blue-green algae (Cyanophyta), such as Anabaena and Nostoc punctiformae; green algae (Chlorophyta), such as Chladophora glomerata and rupestris, Chaetomorpha melagonium, Enteromorpha, Ulva lactuca, Oocystis, such as solitaria and apiculata, and Valonia, such as ventricosa, and Chara corallina; golden algae (Chrysophyta), such as Vaucheria; dinoflagellates (Pyrrophyta), such as Crypthecodinium cohnii, Gonyaulax polyedra, Scrippsiella hexapraecingula, Dinobryon and Peridinium;the brown algae (Phaeophyta), tells us that Lessonia nigrescens, Ascophyllum nodosum, Fucus serratus, Halidrys siliquosa, Himanthalia lorea, Pelvetia canaliculata, Laminaria digitata, Laminaria japonica, Undaria pinnatifida, Macrocystis pyrifera, Ectocarpus confervoides, Sphaerotrichia, Desmarestia viridis, Scytosiphon lomentaria, Colpomenia sinuosa, Chorda filum, Myosoton aquaticum, Dictyota dichotoma, Padina, Sargassum, Silvetia siliquosa, Sargassum pallidum, Sargassum muticum, et Sargassum fusiforme, et les other rouges (Rhodophyta), telles that Griffithsia flusculosa, Porphyra, Ptilota plumosa, Rhodymenia palmate and Erythrocladia subintegrates. ;
[0077] L'extrait d'algues useful dans la composition selon la présente invention est choisi parmi les extraits d'algues bleu-vert, d'algues vertes, d'algues golden, d'algues brunes, d'algues rouges, et leurs combinations.
[0078] De préférence, l'extrait d'algues est choisi parmi les extraits d'algues brunes.
[0079] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises an extract of Macrocystis pyrifera (KELP).
[0080] As an example of commercial products of Macrocystis pyrifera extract (KELP), one can cite those sold under the trade name SEASTEM by the company ASHLAND.
[0081] Advantageously, the seaweed extract is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, most preferably from 0.005% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils
[0082] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil.
[0083] The term "oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound that is immiscible with water and is liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0084] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0085] The expression "non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
[0086] The term “volatile oil” means any oil which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
[0087] Preferably, the oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, and their combinations.
[0088] The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.
[0089] The expression "silicone oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular, at least one Si-O group.
[0090] The oils may include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
[0091] The hydrocarbon-based oil may optionally be selected from: i. hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C14 branched alkanes, for example petroleum-derived C8-C14 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for example isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl; ii. linear alkanes, for example n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis patent application WO 2008 / 155059, and their mixtures, iii. short-chain esters (containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate; iv. Oils based on hydrocarbons of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of glycerol fatty acid esters, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C24, these chains being optionally linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils include, in particular, triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or alternatively wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil and rosehip oil; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel; v. synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms; vi. linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, squalane and liquid paraffins, and mixtures thereof, vii. synthetic esters such as oils of the formula RiC(O)-O-R2 in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue including 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, particularly branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri+R2>10, for example purcelline oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates in C12 to C15> hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, heptanoates, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate and 2-octyldodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters; and / or viii. Fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol.
[0092] Useful silicone oils include
[0093] - polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS);
[0094] - polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendants and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms;
[0095] - phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes, or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates,
[0096] - linear or cyclic silicones, such as those with a viscosity of 8 centistokes and / or containing 2 to 7 silicon atony, optionally include alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane; and
[0097] - amino-functionalized silicones, such as amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones and caprylyl methicones.
[0098] Preferably, the oil is chosen from C8-C40 branched alkanes, C8-C14 linear alkanes, aminofunctionalized silicones, and their combinations.
[0099] More preferably, the oil is chosen from squalane, amodimethicone and their combinations.
[0100] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty alcohols
[0101] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol.
[0102] The expression "fatty alcohol" means an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylated (in particular neither oxyethylated, nor oxypropylated), nor glycerolated.
[0103] Fatty alcohols can be represented by R-OH, in which R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0104] Non-limiting examples of useful fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol; myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), and mixtures thereof.
[0105] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Specific non-limiting examples Fatty alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms include C14-22 alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0106] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols selected from C14-22 alcohols, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and one of their mixtures.
[0107] Advantageously, the fatty alcohol is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxyalkyl modified starches
[0108] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydroxyalkyl modified starch.
[0109] As used herein, the term "starch" refers to a basic starch. Basic starch, as used herein, includes all starches derived from any native source, each of which is suitable for use herein. A native starch, as used herein, is a starch found in nature. Starches derived from a plant obtained by standard breeding techniques, including crossing, translocation, inversion, transformation, or any other genetic or chromosomal engineering process, to include their variations, are also suitable. In addition, starches derived from a cultivated plant from artificial mutations and variations of the above generic starches, which can be produced by known standard processes of mutation breeding, are also suitable herein.
[0110] Typical sources of starch are cereals, tubers, roots, legumes, and fruits. The native source may be waxy varieties of maize, peas, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oats, sago, amaranth, tapioca (cassava), arrowroot, canna, and sorghum, as well as their low- and high-amylose varieties.
[0111] As used herein, the expression "low amylose" starch is intended to include starch containing not more than about 10%, in particular not more than 5%, and more particularly not more than 2% by weight of amylose.
[0112] As used herein, the expression "high amylose" starch is intended to include starch containing at least about 50%, in particular at least about 70%, and more particularly at least about 80% by weight of amylose.
[0113] Hydroxyalkyl modified starch is a modified starch in which the hydroxyl group is linked via an alkyl group, such as 2 to 10 carbon atoms in the group In alkyl starch, the position of the hydroxyl group is not critical and can be in positions from alpha to omega. Hydroxyalkyl-modified starch may also contain more than one hydroxyl group per alkyl group. In some suitable embodiments, the degree of substitution of hydroxyalkylation is approximately 0.08 to 0.3. The degree of substitution is the average number of substituted OH groups in the starch molecule per anhydroglucose unit. Hydroxyalkylation of a starch can be achieved by reacting native starch with alkylene oxides having the appropriate number of carbon atoms, including, but not limited to, hydroxypropylation by reacting starch with propylene oxide.
[0114] Preferably, the hydroxyalkyl in the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch is a C2-C6 alkyl hydroxyl.
[0115] Preferably, the hydroxyalkyl modified starch is selected from hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and a mixture thereof.
[0116] More preferably, the hydroxyalkyl modified starch is chosen from hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and one of their mixtures.
[0117] Hydroxyalkyl modified starch can be pregelatinized. Pregelatinization and techniques for achieving pregelatinization are known in the art and disclosed, for example, in US patents Nos. 4,465,702, 5,037,929, 5,131,953 and 5,149,799. See also Chapter XXII “Production and Use of Pregelatinized Starch”, Starch: Chemistry and Technology, Vol. III—Industrial Aspects, R.L. Whistler and E.F. Paschall, Editors, Academy Press, New York 1967.
[0118] As used herein, the term "pregelatinized" is intended to refer to swollen starch particles that have lost their birefringence and / or Maltese crosses under polarized light. These pregelatinized starch derivatives are substantially soluble in cold water without cooking.
[0119] In this context, the term "soluble" does not necessarily mean the formation of a true molecular solution, but can also mean a colloidal dispersion.
[0120] In a preferred embodiment, the hydroxyalkyl modified starch is completely pregelatinized.
[0121] Examples of hydroxyalkyl-modified starch used in the present invention may include the following:
[0122] Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (pregelatinized maize starch) marketed by Akzo Nobel under the names Structure ZEA and XL; and
[0123] Modified maize starch (hydroxypropyl, pregelatinized, high amylose) marketed by Akzo Nobel under the name AMAZE.
[0124] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.
[0125] Advantageously, the hydroxyalkyl modified starch is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, most preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants
[0126] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one surfactant.
[0127] Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from among cationic surfactants.
[0128] The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that can be positively charged when contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more cationizable functional groups.
[0129] More preferably, the surfactant is chosen from quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (X) A® I (X) z N \ I x R / |
[0130] in which,
[0131] R8 to Rlb, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, it being understood that at least one of the groups R8 to Rn comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and
[0132] X represents an organic or mineral anionic counter-ion, such as one selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
[0133] Aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms, in particular such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. Aliphatic groups are selected from CrC3O alkyl, CrC3O alkoxy, (C2-C6)alkylene polyoxy, Ci-C3O alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido-(C2-C6)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate and CrC3O hydroxyalkyl groups; X is an anion selected from the group of halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates and (CrC4)alkyl- or (CrC4) alkyl laryngeal 1s sulfonates.
[0134] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 16 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts.
[0135] More preferably, the surfactant is chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0136] Most preferably, the surfactant is chosen from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
[0137] Advantageously, the surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water
[0138] The composition of the present invention may further include water.
[0139] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 20% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% by weight to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Active cosmetic ingredients
[0140] The composition of the present invention may further include one or more additional active ingredients for revitalizing keratin fibers.
[0141] The person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional active ingredients according to the desired objective. Adjuvants
[0142] The composition of the present invention may also include additional adjuvants, such as perfumes, preservatives, and so on.
[0143] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0144] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; b. from 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight of Macrocystis pyrifera extract (KELP); and c. from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one oil chosen from among C8-C40 branched alkanes, C8-C14 linear alkanes, aminofunctionalized silicones, and their combinations.
[0145] According to a more preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; b. from 0.005% by weight to 5% by weight of Macrocystis pyrifera extract (KELP); and c. from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one oil chosen from among C8-C40 branched alkanes, C8-C14 linear alkanes, aminofunctionalized silicones, and their combinations. Preparation and use
[0146] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a), b) and c), as essential ingredients, together with one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.
[0147] The method and means for mixing the above ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0148] The composition of the present invention can be used as a leave-on or rinse-off conditioner.
[0149] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a method for revitalizing keratin fibers comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin fibers.
[0150] In particular, keratin fibers are hair. EXAMPLES
[0151] The examples provided herein are provided by way of illustration to demonstrate the present invention and are not intended to limit its scope.
[0152] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0153] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Macrocystis pyrifera extract (KELP) (Macrocystis pyrifera (KELP) extract) SEASTEM ASHLAND Squalane NEOSSANCE SQU ALANE GIVAUDAN Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) MEXORYL SCN NOVEAL Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate) STRUCTURE ZEA AKZO NOBEL Cetearyl alcohol (Cetearyl alcohol) CETYL STEARYL ALCOHOL EMERY OLEOCHE MICALS Chloride of behentrimonium (Behentri monium chloride) GENAMIN KDMP CLARIANT Amodimethicone (and) trideceth-6 (and) cetrimonium chloride (Amodimethic one (and) trideceth-6 (and) cetrimoniu m chloride) XIAMETER MEM- 8299 EMULSION DOW
[0154] Inventive Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3
[0155] The compositions of inventive examples (El) 1 to 4 and comparative examples (EC) 1 to 3 were prepared according to the quantities of ingredients given in Table 2. The quantity of each ingredient is given as % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in which MA means active substance.
[0156] [Tables2] Ingredients ELI EI.2 EI.3 EI.4 EC.1 EC.2 EC.3 Cetearyl alcohol 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 0.6 (MA) 0.6 (MA) 0.6 (MA) 0.6 (MA) 0.6 (MA) 0.6 (MA) 0.6 (MA) Behentrimonium chloride 2.4 (MA) 2.4 (MA) 2.4 (MA) 2.4 (MA) 2.4 (MA) 2.4 (MA) 2.4 (MA) Macrocystis pyrifera extract (KELP) 0.01 (MA) 0.05 (MA) 0.01 (MA) 0.01 (MA) 0.01 (MA) 0.05 (MA) - Hydroxypropyl tetrahydroxypyrantriol 0.1 (MA) 0.1 (MA) 0.1 (MA) 0.1 (MA) - 0.1 (MA) 0.1 (MA) Squalane 4.5 4.5 4.5 - 4.5 - 4.5 Amodimethicone - - - 4.5 (MA) - - - Water QSP QSP QSP QSP QSP QSP QSP ||100 |100 |100 |100 |100 |100 |100 |
[0157] *QSP100 denotes a quantity sufficient to complete to 100%.
[0158] The compositions of inventive examples 1 to 4 represent the compositions of the present invention.
[0159] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include at least one C-glycoside.
[0160] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include at least one oil.
[0161] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include at least one extract of algae.
[0162] Preparation procedure:
[0163] The above compositions were prepared according to the following steps: 1. Introduction of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate into water with stirring to obtain phase A; 2. mixing of cetearyl alcohol and behentrimonium chloride by stirring to obtain phase B; 3. Introduce phase B into phase A with agitation to obtain a homogeneous emulsion, then cool the emulsion to form a cream. 4. Introduction of macrocystis pyrifera extract (if present), hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (if present) and squalene (or amodimethicone) into the cream to obtain the compositions. Assessment Coating, smooth texture and softness
[0164] The coating on the hair, the smooth texture and the softness of the hair delivered by each composition prepared above were evaluated as follows: 1. Invitation of 6 fully trained sensory experts to participate in the trial. The experts were well-trained in the sensory evaluation of conditioners, representing over 50 different types of conditioners with varying performance levels. They are able to rate the performance of each control point (such as coating, smoothness, softness, etc.) on a scale of 0 to 5, where 0 represents the lowest performance for the corresponding control point and 5 represents the highest performance for the corresponding control point. 2. Instruction given to the experts to use each composition of inventive examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 3 by following the steps below:
[0165] - Wash the entire head of hair with 12 g of shampoo and rinse thoroughly shampoo;
[0166] - application of 12 g of the test composition to the entire head of hair and to the scalp;
[0167] - massage and pose for 10 minutes;
[0168] - rinsing of the test composition;
[0169] - blowing on the hair to dry it completely; 1. Then, after coating the hair, the smooth texture and softness of the hair delivered by each composition were noted by sensory experts according to the training standard and the average of the scores was calculated for each composition.
[0170] The results on coating, smooth texture and softness of hair delivered by the compositions of inventive examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 3 have been summarized in Table 3.
[0171] [Tables3] Properties ELI EL 2 EL 3 EL4 EC.1 EC.2 EC. 3 Coating 4.0 3.9 3.8 4.5 2.3 2.2 2.8 Smooth texture 4.1 4.0 4.0 4.5 2.5 2.5 3.0 Softness 4.2 3.9 3.8 4.5 2.4 2.6 3.1
[0172] It can be seen from Table 3 that each composition of inventive examples 1 to 4 can coat the hair well and give the hair a good smooth texture and good softness.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition, preferably for revitalizing keratin fibers, comprising: a) at least one C-glycoside; b) at least one algae extract; and c) at least one oil.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from compounds of formula (I): XR(I)S® in which: - R represents a saturated C1-C1 alkyl radical, in particular C1-C4, which may optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR2, R2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, wherein said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and - X represents a radical selected from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-,-CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-, the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be α or [3], as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - CaD-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - 1 -(C- [3-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - 1 -(C- [3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and mixtures thereof.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the seaweed extract is selected from brown seaweed extracts, preferably the composition comprises an extract of Macrocystis pyrifera (KELP).
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the oil is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, and combinations thereof, preferably the oil is selected from C8-C40 branched alkanes, C8-C14 linear alkanes, aminofunctionalized silicones, and combinations thereof.
6. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) 0.05% to 5% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; b) 0.005% to 5% by weight of Macrocystis pyrifera extract (KELP); and c) 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one oil selected from C8-C40 branched alkanes, C8-C14 linear alkanes, aminofunctionalized silicones, and combinations thereof.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising at least one fatty alcohol represented by: R-OH, in which R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably the fatty alcohol is present in an amount from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising at least one hydroxyalkyl modified starch, preferably the hydroxyalkyl in the hydroxyalkyl modified starch is a C2-C6 alkyl hydroxyl, more preferably the hydroxyalkyl modified starch is selected from hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and mixtures thereof, preferably the hydroxyalkyl modified starch is present in an amount from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, most preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising at least one surfactant, preferably selected from cationic surfactants, more preferably the surfactant being selected from quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (X)Ra[X] * (X)1x, wherein, R8 to Ru, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, it being understood that at least one of the R8 to Ru groups comprises 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and - X represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as one chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (CrC4)alkylarylsulfonates; even more preferably, the surfactant is chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
10. A method for revitalizing keratin fibers comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratin fibers.