STABLE W / H EMULSION COMPOSITION
A water-in-oil emulsion composition using a cationic polymer and hydrophilic fillers with organically modified clay forms a stable, low-viscosity structure, addressing high viscosity and filler aggregation issues while being environmentally friendly.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024008819
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-08-09
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-13
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-08-09
AI Technical Summary
Existing water-in-oil emulsion compositions face issues with high viscosity and stability, particularly due to filler aggregation, and there is a need for environmentally friendly formulations that avoid microplastic fillers.
A water-in-oil emulsion composition comprising a cationic polymer with a molecular weight of 20,000 to 500,000, hydrophilic fillers, and organically modified clay, forming a three-dimensional network structure to reduce viscosity and prevent filler aggregation, optionally without microplastic fillers.
The composition achieves low viscosity and stability without phase separation, maintaining a structured mass with reduced filler aggregation, promoting environmental sustainability.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: STABLE W / H EMULSION COMPOSITION technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion composition, in particular a sun care composition in the form of a stable W / O emulsion, for a keratinous material such as skin. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Sun care products are commonly used to protect keratinous materials, particularly the skin, from damage caused by UV radiation. Among sun care products, oil-in-water emulsion sun care compositions are widespread because they are generally water-resistant and can therefore be retained on the skin's surface even after exposure to water or perspiration.
[0003] In cosmetic sun care products, organic UV filters are commonly used to impart UV protection properties to sun care compositions. However, the use of organic UV filters can have a negative impact, such as giving them a viscous property and sufficient stability to maintain their emulsion form over time.
[0004] Furthermore, in recent years, pollution of the ocean environment and the destruction of the marine ecosystem by microplastics have become a major concern. Consequently, cosmetic products containing a small amount of microplastic fillers or containing no microplastic fillers have been proposed.
[0005] There has therefore been a demand for W / O emulsion compositions which have lower viscosity and good stability without causing phase separation over time.
[0006] For example, document WO2023 / 277194 discloses a W / O emulsion composition comprising:
[0007] (a) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter, (b) at least one powder other than the microplastic filler
[0008] (c) at least one cationic polymer, and (d) at least one oil, in which the composition includes a microplastic filler in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, or the composition is free of microplastic filler.
[0009] However, the composition disclosed in document WO2023 / 277194 may present a problem insofar as there may be a case where powders in the composition exhibit an aggregation which may lead to a lower stability of the composition.
[0010] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental considerations in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes, and ingredients to meet these environmental concerns.
[0011] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin.
[0012] Thus, there remains a need to propose a new formulation of low-viscosity W / O emulsion compositions that have sufficient stability with a reduced amount of filler aggregation. Furthermore, cosmetic sun care compositions that do not contain microplastic fillers are also desired as environmentally sustainable products. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0013] An objective of the present invention is to provide an O / W emulsion composition having low viscosity and sufficient stability with a reduced amount of filler aggregation, and substantially not comprising microplastic fillers.
[0014] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by an O / W emulsion composition, comprising:
[0015] (a) at least one cationic polymer having a molecular weight ranging from 20,000 to 500,000;
[0016] (b) at least one hydrophilic charge;
[0017] (c) at least one organically modified clay; and
[0018] (d) at least one oily medium,
[0019] wherein the composition comprises a microplastic filler in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, or the composition is free of microplastic filler.
[0020] The (a) cationic polymer can be chosen from polyamines.
[0021] The (a) cationic polymer can be selected from chitosan, polylysine and one of their mixtures.
[0022] The (b) hydrophilic filler can be selected from talc, mica, silica, magnesium aluminum silicate, silica silicate, kaolin, bentone, carbonate of calcium, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorophlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, lauroyl lysine, metallic soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate and natural polymer powders, such as polysaccharide powders, for example starch, cellulose powder, and mixtures thereof.
[0023] The (b) hydrophilic charge can range from 0.2 pm to 50 pm, preferably from 0.5 pm to 20 pm, and more preferably from 1 pm to 15 pm.
[0024] The (b) hydrophilic charge may comprise two or more types of (b) hydrophilic charges.
[0025] The (b) hydrophilic charge may comprise at least one inorganic hydrophilic charge and at least one organic hydrophilic charge in combination.
[0026] The composition may be free of microplastic filler.
[0027] The (c) organically modified clay can be selected from organically modified hectorites and organically modified bentonites.
[0028] The (c) cationic polymer may be present in an amount from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0029] The (b) hydrophilic charge may be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 8% to 18% by weight, and in particular from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0030] The (c) organically modified clay may be present in a quantity ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] The (d) oily medium can be present in an amount from 5% to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, and even more preferably from 30% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solution.
[0032] The composition may further include at least one lipophilic UV filter.
[0033] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous material such as skin, comprising the application to the keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention. Best embodiment of the invention
[0034] After extensive research, the inventors made the surprising discovery that a W / O emulsion composition comprising a combination of less a cationic polymer having a molecular weight ranging from 20,000 to 500,000, at least one hydrophilic filler and at least one organically modified clay can exhibit low viscous property, good stability and a reduced amount of filler aggregation, forming a three-dimensional (3D) network structure in the composition, and have thus finalized the present invention.
[0035] Thus, the present invention relates to a W / O emulsion composition, comprising:
[0036] (a) at least one cationic polymer having a molecular weight ranging from 20,000 to 500,000;
[0037] (b) at least one hydrophilic charge;
[0038] (c) at least one organically modified clay; and
[0039] (d) at least one oily medium,
[0040] wherein the composition comprises a microplastic filler in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, or the composition is free of microplastic filler.
[0041] The composition of the W / O emulsion and the cosmetic process according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below. Composition
[0042] The composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one cationic polymer having a molecular weight from 20,000 to 500,000, (b) at least one hydrophilic filler, (c) at least one organically modified clay and (d) at least one oily medium.
[0043] The composition according to the present invention is a form of water-in-oil emulsion, that is to say, a form of W / O emulsion, comprising multiple discontinuous aqueous phases dispersed in a continuous oily phase. Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises multiple discontinuous and dispersed aqueous phases and a continuous oily phase.
[0044] The composition according to the present invention exhibits low viscosity. For example, the composition of the present invention may have a viscosity of less than 10 Pa·s, preferably less than 8 Pa·s, and more preferably less than 6 Pa·s at room temperature (25°C). The lower limit of viscosity is not restricted, but in general, the composition has a viscosity greater than 1 mPa·s at room temperature. Within the scope of this specification, the viscosity of the compositions may be measured with a type B viscometer at room temperature.
[0045] The W / H emulsion composition according to the present invention can exhibit good stability without causing phase separation over time, even if it does not include substantially any microplastic filler. Furthermore, the composition according to the present The invention can suppress charge aggregation. These properties are surprising because, in general, low-viscosity compositions tend to exhibit low stability and cause charge aggregation, but the composition according to the present can satisfy good stability with a reduced amount of charge aggregation while having low viscosity.
[0046] Although not wishing to formulate a theory, the inventors have made a surprising discovery that the combination of (a) the cationic polymer, (b) the hydrophilic filler, and (c) the organically modified clay can form a three-dimensional (3D) network structure within the composition to produce a structured mass. In particular, it is believed that (a) the cationic polymer and (b) the hydrophilic filler in the discontinuous dispersed aqueous phases can interact with (c) the organically modified clay in the continuous oily phase through ionic force, and the 3D network structure is thus created within the composition.
[0047] The level of 3D structure in the composition can be measured by permittivity. An appropriate permittivity level indicates that a more pronounced 3D structure is produced. Preferably, the permittivity of the present invention ranges from 1 to 2. The permittivity can be measured, for example, using a multimeter, such as the Orion™ Versa Star sold by Thermo Fisher Scientific, under ambient conditions.
[0048] The ingredients of the composition will be described in detail below. Cationic Polymer
[0049] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one cationic polymer having a molecular weight from 20,000 to 500,000. Two or more types of cationic polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic polymer or a combination of different types of cationic polymers may be used.
[0050] A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the cationic polymer can be between 0.01 meq / g and 20 meq / g, preferably between 0.05 and 15 meq / g, and more preferably between 0.1 and 10 meq / g.
[0051] The cationic polymer can be hydrophilic or water-soluble. Thus, in a preferred embodiment, (a) the cationic polymer is present in the aqueous phases of the W / O emulsion composition according to the present invention.
[0052] The molecular weight of (a) cationic polymer ranges from 20,000 to 500,000. The molecular weight of the cationic polymer can range from 25,000 to 400,000.
[0053] Unless otherwise specified in the description, "molecular weight" means number-average molecular weight. Molecular weight can be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.
[0054] The (a) cationic polymer may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged fraction selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group and a pyridyl group. The term "amino group" (primary) here means the -NH2 group.
[0055] The (a) cationic polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. By "copolymer" is meant both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.
[0056] The (a) cationic polymer may be selected from natural and synthetic cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers are as follows.
[0057] (1) Homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic esters and amides or methacrylics and comprising at least one motif chosen from the motifs of the following formulas:
[0058] s. .
[0059] in which:
[0060] - Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl groups comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example, methyl and ethyl groups;
[0061] - R3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and CH3
[0062] - the symbols A, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example from 2 to 3 carbon atoms and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0063] - R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and benzyl groups and, in at least one embodiment, alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and
[0064] - X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as anions methosulfates and halides, for example chloride and bromide.
[0065] The copolymers of family (1) may also include at least one motif derived from comonomers which may be selected from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with lower alkyl groups (C1-C4), groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
[0066] Examples of copolymers of family (1) include, but are not limited to:
[0067] - acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quantified with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide,
[0068] - acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl- chloride copolymers ammonium described, for example, in European patent application no. 0 080 976,
[0069] - acrylamide and methosulfate copolymers methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium,
[0070] - vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylamino- methacrylate or acrylate copolymers quaternized or non-quaternized alkyls, described, for example, in French patents no. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,
[0071] - dimethylaminoethyl / vinylcaprolactam methacrylate terpolymers / vinylpyrrolidone
[0072] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, and
[0073] - crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci- C4)alkylammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, homopolymerization or copolymerization followed by crosslinking with a compound containing an olefinic unsaturation, for example, methylenebisacrylamide.
[0074] Preferably, the copolymers of family (1) have a motif derived from vinylpyrrolidone. More preferably, the copolymers of family (1) have at least one pendant ring structure derived from vinylpyrrolidone. On the other hand, it is preferable that the copolymers of family (1) do not include a ring structure in the polymer backbone.
[0075] Copolymers of family (1) having vinylpyrrolidone motifs may be selected from:
[0076] (i) copolymers comprising vinylpyrrolidone motifs and motifs dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, for example:
[0077] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers; by For example, the vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) sold under the trade name Copolymer 845 by ISP,
[0078] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate; for example, the vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer quaternized with diethyl sulfate, sold under the trade names Gafquat 734, 755, 755, and 755L by the company ISP,
[0079] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers / hydrophilic polyurethane; for example, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / hydrophilic polyurethane copolymer, sold under the trade name Pecogel GC-310 by UCIB, or under the trade names Aquamere C1031 and C1511 by Blagden Chemicals,
[0080] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / olefin copolymers in C8-Ci6, quaternized or not; for example, the C8-Ci6 vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / olefin copolymer sold under the trade names Ganex ACP1050 to 1057, 1062-1069 and 1079-1086 by ISP,
[0081] and
[0082] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers / vinylcaprolactam; for example, the vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam copolymer sold under the trade name Gaffix VC713 by the company ISP;
[0083] (ii) copolymers comprising vinylpyrrolidone motifs and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium (MAPTAC) motifs, for example:
[0084] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl-trimethylammonium copolymers; For example, the vinylpyrrolidone / MAPTAC copolymer sold under the trade names Gafquat ACP1011 and Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP,
[0085] and
[0086] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium terpolymers / vinylcaprolactam; for example, the vinylpyrrolidone / MAPTAC / vinylcaprolactam terpolymer sold under the trade names Polymer ACP 1059, 1060 and 1156 by the company ISP; and
[0087] (iii) copolymers comprising vinylpyrrolidone motifs and methylvinylimidazolium motifs, for example:
[0088] - vinylpyrrolidone / methylvinylimidazolium chloride copolymers; by For example, the vinylpyrrolidone / methyl-vinylimidazolium chloride copolymer sold under the trade names Luviquat FC370, FC550, FC905 and HM552 by BASF,
[0089] - vinylpyrrolidone / methyl-vinylimidazolium chloride copolymers / vinylimidazole; for example, the vinylpyrrolidone / methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylimidazole copolymer sold under the trade name Luviquat 8155 by BASF,
[0090] and
[0091] - vinylpyrrolidone / methyl methosulfate copolymers vinylimidazolium; for example, the vinylpyrrolidone / methylvinylimidazolium methosulfate copolymer sold under the trade name Luviquat MS370 by BASF.
[0092] It is preferable that the copolymers of family (1) be chosen from the copolymer comprising vinylpyrrolidone motifs and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate motifs, more preferably chosen from the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with diethyl sulfate, and even more preferably Polyquatemium-11.
[0093] (2) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups described, for example, in French patent no. 1,492,597, such as the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
[0094] Preferably, the cationic cellulose derivatives should be quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals attached to the quaternary ammonium group may preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Aryl radicals preferably refer to phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthryl groups.
[0095] More preferably, cationic cellulose derivatives may comprise at least one quaternary ammonium group including at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon group.
[0096] Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty acid chains include Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) or Softcat Polymer SL100, Softcat SX-1300X, Softcat SX-1300H, Softcat SL-5, Softcat SL-30, Softcat SL-60, Softcat SK-MH, Softcat SX-400X, Softcat SX-400H, Softcat SK-L, Softcat SK-M and Softcat SK-H, sold by Amerchol, and Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (alkyl C18) sold by the company Croda.
[0097] It may be preferable for the cationic polymer to be chosen from the group consisting of Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof. Polyquaternium-67 is the most preferable.
[0098] From another point of view, the cationic cellulose derivatives could also be chosen from cationic cellulose ether or ethers, comprising from 4,000 to 10,000 anhydroglucose units, said anhydroglucose units being substituted by at least:
[0099] (i) a formula substitute
[0100] [R4R5R6R9N+](X2)
[0101] in which
[0102] - R4 and R5 represent, independently of each other, a methyl or ethyl group,
[0103] - R6 represents a linear or branched C8-C24 alkyl group or an aralkyl group in which the linear or branched alkyl portion is at C8-C24,
[0104] - R9 represents a divalent group which allows attachment to the anhydroglucose group and which is chosen from -(B)q-CH2 -CHOH-CH2- and -CH2CH2-,
[0105] - q denoting 0 or 1,
[0106] - B denoting the divalent group -(CH2CH2 O)n-,
[0107] - n' being an integer from 1 to 100,
[0108] - X2 represents an anion; and
[0109] (ii) a formula substituent
[0110] [R1R2R3R8N+](X1")
[0111] in which:
[0112] - R1, R2 and R3 represent, independently of each other, a methyl group or ethyl,
[0113] -R8 represents a divalent group that allows attachment to the anhydroglucose group and which is chosen from -(A)P-CH2-CHOH-CH2- and -CH2CH2-,
[0114] - p denoting 0 or 1,
[0115] - A designating a divalent group -(CH2CH2 O)n-,
[0116] - n is an integer from 1 to 100, and
[0117] - Xi represents an anion.
[0118] Preferably, the substituent (i) of formula [R4R5R6RQN+](X2 ) is present on average from 0.0003 to 0.08 mol, per mol of anhydroglucose motifs.
[0119] The cationic cellulose ethers that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention are preferably hydroxyethyl celluloses or hydroxypropyl celluloses. The cationic cellulose ethers that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention preferably comprise more than 4500, advantageously more than 5000, and more preferably more than 6000 anhydroglucose units.
[0120] Preferably, the cationic cellulose ethers that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention comprise up to 9000, and more preferably up to 8000 anhydroglucose motifs.
[0121] These cationic cellulose ethers and their preparation process are described in application WO 2005 / 000903.
[0122] According to a preferred embodiment, the cationic cellulose ethers that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention are formed of at least one motif (IV) and at least one of the following motifs (I), (II) and (III): p(CH2OH2O^H CH2X (CH2CH2O),fH
[0123] provided that
[0124] the total number of motifs (I)+(II)+(III)+(IV) is between 4000 and 10,000;
[0125] the ratio [(III)+(IV)] / [(I)+(II)+(III)+(IV)] goes from 0.0003 to 0.8;
[0126] the ratio [(II)+(IV)] / [(I)+(II)+(III)+(IV)] goes from 0.02 to 0.9;
[0127] the integers n and n', independently of each other, go from 0 to 5;
[0128] Ri, R2, R2, R4 and R5 represent, independently of each other, a methyl or ethyl group;
[0129] R6 represents a linear or branched C8-C24 alkyl group, preferably C10-C24, more preferably C12-C24 and even better C12-C15, or an aralkyl group in which the linear or branched alkyl part is C8-C24;
[0130] Xi and X2 represent preferred anions chosen independently of each other from among the phosphate, nitrate, sulfate and halide ions (Cf, Br, F, I).
[0131] According to a particular embodiment, the cationic cellulose ethers that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention are formed of at least one motif (IV) and at least one of the motifs (I), (II) or (III) above, in which R6 is a linear dodecyl group.
[0132] Among the cationic cellulose ethers that can be used in the compositions of the present invention, mention may be made of the Softcat SL-5, SL-30, SL-60 and SL-100 type polymers (INCI: Polyquaternium-67) sold by the company Amerchol. The cationic cellulose ethers of particular preference are the SL-60 and SL-100 type polymers.
[0133] (3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and described, for example, in US Patent No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with a salt selected from the salts of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium and dimethyldiallylammonium.
[0134] Commercial products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, products sold under the names “Celquat® L 200” and “Celquat® H 100” by the company National Starch.
[0135] (4) Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides described in US patents Numbers 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, cationic hyaluronic acid, and dextran hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Guar gums modified with a salt, for example, the chloride, of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride) may also be used.
[0136] These products are sold, for example, under the trade names JAGUAR® C13 S, JAGUAR® C15, JAGUAR® C17 and JAGUAR® C162 by the company MEYHALL.
[0137] (5) Polymers comprising piperazinyl motifs and alkylene groups or divalent hydroxyalkylenes comprising straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with at least one entity selected from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, aromatic rings and heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. These polymers are described, for example, in French patents no. 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.
[0138] (6) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared, for example, by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides being optionally crosslinked with an entity selected from among the epihalohydrins; diepoxides; dianhydrides; unsaturated dianhydrides; bisunsaturated derivatives; bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums; bishalocyanadiamines; bisalkyl halides; oligomers resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound that is reactive with an entity selected from among the bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums, bishalocyanadiamines, bisalkyl halides; epihalohydrins; diepoxides and bisunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides being optionally alkylated or, if they include at least one tertiary amine function, they can be quaternized.These polymers are described, for example, in French patents no. 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.
[0139] (7) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyamines of polyalkylene with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents, for example, adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyl-dialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, and propyl groups, and the alkylene group comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as an ethylene group. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent no. 1,583,363. In at least one embodiment, these derivatives may be selected from adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl-diethylenetriamine polymers.
[0140] (8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids comprising 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid may range from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio between the epichlorohydrin and the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. These polymers are described, for example, in US patents Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
[0141] (9) Alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallyl- cyclopolymers ammonium, such as homopolymers and copolymers comprising, as the main constituent of the chain, at least one motif from among the motifs of formulas (la) and (Ib):
[0142] (the) xCip HAS Y
[0143] H (Ib) kVWWVtV '^.j,., \ -VkW^ '}j '■ •'■ '[ VX VkVkVkV.Ç »V»V»W h / . 2¾ s#
[0144] where:
[0145] - k and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1;
[0146] - Rn is chosen from hydrogen and methyl groups;
[0147] - Rio and Rn, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups alkyl comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups in which the alkyl group comprises, for example, from 1 to 5 carbon atoms and lower (Ci-C4)alkylamido groups, or R10 and Rn can form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl and morpholinyl; and
[0148] - Y' is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate and phosphate. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent no. 2 080 759 and in its certificate of addition 2 190 406.
[0149] In one embodiment, Rio and Rn, which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0150] Examples of these polymers include, but are not limited to, diallyldialkyl ammonium (co)chloride such as dimethyldiethylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by CALGON (and its low weight average molecular weight counterparts) and diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide copolymers sold under the name "MERQUAT® 550".
[0151] Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (II):
[0152] in which:
[0153] - Rn, Ru, Rb and R[6, which may be identical or different, are chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic groups, or alternatively Rn, R[4, Ris and Ri6, can form, together or separately, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively Rn, RM, R[5 and R[6 which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl groups substituted by at least one group selected from nitrile groups, ester groups, acyl groups, amide groups, -CO-O-Rp-E groups and -CO-NH-Rp-E groups, where Rn is an alkylene group and E is a quaternary ammonium group;
[0154] - Ai and Bb, which may be identical or different, are chosen from groups polymethylene comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may include, bonded or intercalated in the main chain, at least one entity selected from aromatic rings, oxygen, sulfur, sulfoxide groups, sulfone groups, disulfide groups, amino groups, alkylamino groups, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium groups, ureido groups, amide groups and ester groups, and
[0155] - X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;
[0156] - Ai, Rn and R[5 can form, together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine cycle;
[0157] If Ai is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, Bi can be chosen from:
[0158] -(CH2)n-CO-E'-OC-(CH2)n-
[0159] in which E' is chosen from:
[0160] (a) glycol residues of formula -OZO-, wherein Z is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and groups of the following formulas:
[0161] -(CH2-CH2-O)X-CH2-CH2-
[0162] -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-
[0163] wherein x and y, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent a definite and unique degree of polymerization, and numbers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent an average degree of polymerization;
[0164] (b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as piperazine derivatives;
[0165] (c) bis-primary diamine residues of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and the divalent group -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-. and
[0166] (d) ureylene groups of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
[0167] In at least one embodiment, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
[0168] Polymers of this type are described, for example, in French patent no. 2,320 330; 2,270,846; 2,316,271; 2,336,434; and 2,413,907 and in US patent no. 2,273 780; 2,375,853; 2,388,614; 2,454,547; 3,206,462; 2,261,002; 2,271,378; 3,874 870; 4,001,432; 3,929,990; 3,966,904; 4,005,193; 4,025,617; 4,025,627; 4,025 653; 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.
[0169] Non-limiting examples of these polymers include those comprising at least one repeating motif of formula (III): (HD
[0170] wherein Rn, RM, R[5 and R[6, which may be identical or different, are selected from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p, which may be identical or different, are integers from 2 to 20, and X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.
[0171] (10) Polyquater ammonium polymers comprising formula motifs (IV):
[0172] âiS X-L; (IV)
[0173] in which:
[0174] - Ri8, R19, R2q and R2[, which may be identical or different, are chosen among the hydrogen, methyl groups, ethyl groups, propyl groups, 3-hydroxyethyl groups, 3-hydroxypropyl groups, - CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH, in which p is chosen from integers from 0 to 6, provided that R[8, R[9, R2o and R2i are not simultaneously hydrogen,
[0175] - r and s, which may be identical or different, are chosen from numbers integers ranging from 1 to 6,
[0176] - q is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 34,
[0177] - X is an anion, such as a halide, and
[0178] - A is chosen from dihalide radicals and -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
[0179] These compounds are described, for example, in European patent application no. 0 122 324.
[0180] (11) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.
[0181] Other examples of suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising motifs selected from vinylpyridine and vinylpyridinium motifs, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
[0182] According to one embodiment of the present invention, at least one cationic polymer is selected from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymers, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers and copolymers sold under the names MERQUAT® 100, MERQUAT® 550, and MERQUAT® S by CALGON, guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt, and quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.
[0183] (12) Polyamines
[0184] As a cationic polymer, it is also possible to use (co)polyamines, which can be homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups. The amino group can be a primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amino group. The amino group can be present in a polymer backbone or as a pendant group, as appropriate, of the (co)polyamines.
[0185] Examples of (co)polyamines include chitosan, (co)polyallylamines, (co)polyvinylamines, (co)polyanilines, (co)polyvinylimidazoles, (co)polymethacrylates of dimethylaminoethylene, (co)polyvinylpyridines such as (co)poly-1-methyl-2-vinylpyridines, (co)polyimines such as (co)polyimines, (co)polypyridines such as quaternary (co)poly(pyridines), (co)polybiguanides such as (co)polyaminopropyl biguanides, (co)polylysines, (co)polyomithines, (co)poly arginines, (co)polyhistidines, aminodextrans, aminocelluloses, amino(co)polyvinylacetals, and their salts.
[0186] As (co)polyamines, chitosan is preferable. Chitosan is well known. Chitosan can be a linear polysaccharide composed of randomly distributed D-glucosamine [3-(1->4)-linked (deacetylated motif)] and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine (acetylated motif). The degree of acetylation of chitosan can be from 1.0% to 10.0%, preferably from 2.0% to 8.0%, and more preferably from 3.0% to 6.0%. Chitosan can be prepared, for example, by treating the chitin shells of shrimp and other crustaceans with an alkaline substance, such as sodium hydroxide. Thus, the cationic polymer can be polyamines of polysaccharides, preferably linear polysaccharides.
[0187] As with (co)polyamines, it is preferable to use (co)polylysines. Polylysine is well known. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine can be e-Poly-L-lysine, typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. Polylysine can be in the form of a salt and / or a solution.
[0188] (13) Cationic amino acids
[0189] As a cationic polymer, it may be possible to use cationic polyamino acids, which may be homopolymers or cationic copolymers, with a plurality of amino and carboxyl groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in a polymer backbone or as a pendant group, as appropriate, of the cationic polyamino acids. The carboxyl group may be present as a pendant group, as appropriate, of the cationic polyamino acids.
[0190] Examples of cationic polyamino acids include cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydrolyzed wheat protein hydroxypropyl steardimonium, hydrolyzed wheat protein hydroxypropyl cocodimonium, hydrolyzed conchiolin protein hydroxypropyltrimonium, hydrolyzed soy protein hydroxypropyl steardimonium, hydrolyzed soy protein hydroxypropyltrimonium, hydrolyzed soy protein hydroxypropyl cocodimonium, and the like.
[0191] It may be preferable for the cationic polymer to be chosen from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)diallyldialkylammonium chloride, the (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines, cationic (co)polyamino acids such as cationized collagen, and their salts.
[0192] The cationic polymer can be a polyquatemium polymer or a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt.
[0193] Polymeric quaternary ammonium salts are cationic polymers comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom. Polyquatemium products (CTFA name), which contribute primarily to the quality of the foam and the sensation felt on the skin after use, are examples of polymeric quaternary ammonium salts. These polymers may preferably be selected from the following:
[0194] Polyquatemium-5, such as the Merquat 5 product sold by Nalco;
[0195] Polyquaterium-6, such as the product Salcare SC 30 sold by BASF and the product Merquat 100 sold by Nalco;
[0196] Polyquatemium-7, such as the products Merquat S, Merquat 2200, Merquat 7SPR, and Merquat 550 sold by Nalco and the product Salcare SC 10 sold by BASF;
[0197] Polyquatemium-10, such as the Polymer JR400 product sold by Amerchol;
[0198] Polyquatemium-11, such as the Gafquat 755, Gafquat 755N and Gafquat 734 products sold by ISP;
[0199] Polyquatemium-15, such as the Rohagit KF 720 F product sold by Rohm;
[0200] Polyquatemium-16, such as the Luviquat FC905, Luviquat FC370, Luviquat HM552 and Luviquat FC550 products sold by BASF;
[0201] Polyquatemium-28, such as the Styleze CC10 product sold by ISP;
[0202] Polyquatemium-44, such as the Luviquat Care product sold by BASF;
[0203] Polyquatemium-46, such as the Luviquat Hold product sold by BASF;
[0204] Polyquatemium-47, such as the product Merquat 2001 sold by Nalco; and
[0205] Polyquatemium-67, such as the Softcat product sold by Amerchol.
[0206] The (a) cationic polymer is preferably chosen from polyamines, more preferably chitosan, polylysine and a mixture thereof, and in particular chitosan.
[0207] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and / or may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less and, more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0208] The quantity of (a) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0209] Hydrophilic charge
[0210] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one hydrophilic filler. Two or more hydrophilic fillers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hydrophilic filler or a combination of different types of hydrophilic fillers may be used.
[0211] The term “filler” should be understood as meaning colourless or white, mineral or natural particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
[0212] The term "hydrophilic" here may mean that the material is easily dispersible in water under ambient conditions such as 25 °C and atmospheric pressure.
[0213] Thus, the expression "hydrophilic charge" should be understood here as meaning charges that are readily dispersible in water. In the present invention, although (b) hydrophilic charge may be in the oil phase, (b) hydrophilic charge remains well dispersed and aggregation can be suppressed.
[0214] The (b) hydrophilic charge can be of any shape, plate-like, spherical or oblong, regardless of the crystallographic form (e.g. lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).
[0215] The average particle size of (b) charge is not limited, but is generally 50 µm or less, preferably 20 µm or less, and more preferably 15 µm or less. The average particle size of (b) charge is 0.2 µm or more, preferably 0.5 µm or more, and more preferably 1 µm or more. The average particle size of (b) charge may range from 0.2 µm to 50 µm, preferably from 0.5 µm to 20 µm or less, and more preferably from 1 µm to 15 µm.
[0216] The expression "average particle size" used here represents an average diameter in number-average size that is given by the statistical particle size distribution at half the population, designated by D50. For example, the average diameter in number-average size can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as the Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern Corp.
[0217] The (b) hydrophilic charge can be an inorganic or organic charge, which may or may not be coated on the surface.
[0218] Examples of inorganic fillers include talc, mica, silica, silicon dioxide, magnesium aluminium silicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorophlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, lauroyl lysine, metallic soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof, optionally with hydrophilic or hydrophobic treatment.
[0219] Examples of organic fillers include natural polymer powders, such as polysaccharide powders and their derivatives, for example starch, cellulose powder, and mixtures thereof.
[0220] In a preferred embodiment, the (b) hydrophilic filler is selected from silica, starch, cellulose powder, and mixtures thereof.
[0221] It is important to mention that (b) the hydrophilic filler of the present invention differs from an "inorganic UV filter," such as titanium dioxide. (b) the hydrophilic filler does not exhibit an active and substantial UV filtration effect, although it can contribute to the formation of a homogeneous and thin film on keratinous materials, such as skin, by the composition according to the present invention. Therefore, (b) the hydrophilic filler of the present invention is not an inorganic UV filter, such as titanium dioxide. Typically, an inorganic UV filler is characterized by its fine particle size and generally has an average particle size of less than 200 nm.
[0222] The (b) hydrophilic filler may or may not be surface coated. The coating may be an inorganic substance and / or an organic substance. In one embodiment of the present invention, the (b) hydrophilic filler is not surface coated.
[0223] The inorganic coating can be selected from metal oxides, such as silica, aluminum oxides, titanium oxides, zirconium oxides, cerium oxide, chromium oxide and iron oxides, and metal hydroxides, such as aluminum hydroxide.
[0224] The organic coating may be selected from fatty acids or their salts (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers and (per)fluoro compounds.
[0225] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (b) hydrophilic filler does not include a synthetic coating that can cause environmental problems in the same way as microplastic fillers.
[0226] The (b) hydrophilic charge can be chosen from hydrophilic charges which have a negative zeta potential in the medium or hydrophilic charges whose surface is negatively charged in the medium.
[0227] The (b) hydrophilic filler can be selected from fillers other than microplastic fillers.
[0228] The term “microplastic filler” herein refers to a synthetic polymer filler having an average particle size of 5 mm or less. The term "Microplastic filler" is also understood here as a water-insoluble polymeric solid particle smaller than 5 mm (all dimensions) and stable throughout the life cycle.
[0229] The microplastic filler may include, but is not limited to, acrylic polymer powders, silicone powders, wax powders, polyamide powders, urethane polymer powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, polyacrylonitrile powders, poly-[3-alanine] powders, polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, lauroyllysine, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders.
[0230] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) hydrophilic filler comprises two or more types of hydrophilic fillers. In a specific embodiment, the (b) hydrophilic filler comprises at least one inorganic hydrophilic filler and at least one organic hydrophilic filler in combination.
[0231] The quantity of the (b) hydrophilic filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be equal to or greater than 1% by weight, preferably equal to or greater than 3% by weight, more preferably equal to or greater than 5% by weight, and even more preferably equal to or greater than 8% by weight, and in particular equal to or less than 10% by weight, and / or may be equal to or less than 30% by weight, preferably equal to or less than 25% by weight, more preferably equal to or less than 20% by weight, even more preferably equal to or less than 18% by weight, and in particular equal to or less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0232] The quantity of the (b) hydrophilic filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 8% to 18% by weight, and in particular from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Organically modified clay
[0233] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (c) at least one organically modified clay. Two or more types of organically modified clays may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of organically modified clay or a combination of different types of organically modified clays may be used.
[0234] Since "organically modified clay" is meant to refer to any clay that is modified with organic compounds, it represents a fat-soluble or fat-dispersible property in the oil phase of the composition. Thus, (c) organically modified clay may be present in the oil phase in the composition according to the present invention, and can be distinguished from (b) hydrophilic charge which is easily dispersible in water.
[0235] Clay refers to a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates with a lamellar structure. The clay used in (c) organically modified clay may include, for example, the smectite family, such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, and saponites, the stevensite family, and the chlorite family. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.
[0236] The clay may preferably be selected from bentonites and hectorites.
[0237] The clay or clays may be modified by a compound selected from quaternary ammonium salts, quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the clay or clays may be modified with quatemium-18, or an ammonium chloride of a C10 to C22 fatty acid, and / or aryldimethylbenzoylammonium chloride.
[0238] In a particularly preferred form, an organically modified clay selected from hydrophobically modified bentonites and hydrophobically modified hectorites, in particular modified with a quaternary ammonium chloride in C22-Cl, such as:
[0239] - a bentonite modified with stearalconium chloride, such as the products commercially sold under the name Claytone AF®, Garamite VT®, Tixogel® LG-M, Tixogel® MP 250 Tixogel® VZ and Tixogel® VZ-V XR, by the company BYK Additives Inc; or commercial products sold under the name Viscogel® B3, Viscogel® B4, Viscogel® B7, Viscogel® B8, Viscogel® ED, Viscogel® GM, Viscogel® S4 and Viscogel® SD by the company Bentec SPA;
[0240] - a bentonite modified with stearalconium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil, such as the commercially available Dub Velvet Gum® products from the company Stearineries Dubois Fils,
[0241] Myglyol GEL T® from the company Cremer Oleo, Tixogel® CGT 6030, Tixogel® DBA 6060, Tixogel® FTN, Tixogel® FTN 1564, Tixogel® IPM, Tixogel® LAN, Tixogel® LAN 1563 from the company BYK Additives Inc;
[0242] - a hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (name INCI: Disteardimonium Hectorite) such as, for example, those sold under the name Bentone® 38V by the company Elementis Specialities;
[0243] - a hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride in presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil, such as products sold under the name Bentone® Gel DOA V, Bentone® Gel EUG V, Bentone® Gel IHD V, Bentone® Gel ISD V, Bentone® Gel MIO V® Bentone® Gel PTM V® Bentone® SS-71 V, Bentone® VS-5 PC V, Bentone® VS-5 by Elementis Specialities; commercial products sold under the name Creagel Bentone CPS / Hectone CPS, Creagel Bentone ID / Hectone ID by Créations Couleurs; commercial products sold under the name NS Gel DM1®, NS Gel PTIS®, NS MGel 1152® by Next Step Laboratories Stop.
[0244] The (c) organically modified clay is preferably selected from organically modified hectorites, bentonites and a mixture thereof, in particular hectorites, bentonites and a mixture thereof treated with alkylammonium salts.
[0245] The quantity of the (c) organically modified clay(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more and, more preferably 0.2% by weight or more, and / or may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less and, more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0246] The quantity of the (c) organically modified clay(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily medium
[0247] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one oily medium. If two (d) or more oily media are used, they may be identical or different.
[0248] The (d) oily medium(s) may constitute a fatty or oily phase, which may be a continuous phase, in the composition according to the present invention.
[0249] The (d) oily medium may include lipophilic oils and solvents.
[0250] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid, a paste (not solid), or a solid at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the oil is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0251] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0252] The oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, fatty alcohols and fatty acids.
[0253] Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0254] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0255] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.
[0256] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0257] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0258] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.
[0259] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and CrC22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0260] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0261] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids and preferably C2-C22 fatty acids may be used. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to Compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing multiple alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0262] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0263] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of fatty acids in the C6-C30, and preferably in the C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0264] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0265] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0266] Monoesters and diesters are used in particular, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0267] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0268] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0269] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0270] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0271] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0272] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0273] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0274] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:
[0275] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably, 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula: ।— D" — D'-------D" - D' —i CH, 11 CH, UI ' with D": — If - O — with D!: - If - O — ch3 c8hî?
[0276] We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and
[0277] (ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.
[0278] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are particularly selected from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups. Preferably, the polydialkylsiloxane is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS, dimethicone).
[0279] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:
[0280] - Silbione® oils from ranges 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
[0281] - the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;
[0282] - oils from the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s; and
[0283] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0284] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.
[0285] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
[0286] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:
[0287] in which
[0288] - Ri in Rio are, independently of each other, radicals based of saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci-C30 hydrocarbons, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals and, even better, CrC6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and
[0289] - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,
[0290] provided that the sum n+m+q is not 0.
[0291] Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names:
[0292] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range by Rhodia;
[0293] - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;
[0294] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;
[0295] - silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20;
[0296] - certain oils in the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0297] As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to R10 are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=l in the formula above) is preferable.
[0298] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0299] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:
[0300] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and
[0301] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.
[0302] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0303] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.
[0304] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0305] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0306] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0307] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C6-C3o alcohols, preferably from saturated, linear or branched C6-C3o alcohols, and more preferably from saturated, linear or branched Ci2-C2o alcohols.
[0308] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be selected from any saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C2-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may preferably be used. Any saturated C6-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used more preferably. Branched C6-C20 fatty alcohols may be used even more preferably.
[0309] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol or a mixture of them (e.g. cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0310] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0311] The fatty acids that may be used in the composition of this disclosure may be saturated or unsaturated and may comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. By way of non-limiting examples, they may be selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.
[0312] It may be preferable that the (d) oily medium may comprise synthetic ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0313] It may be more preferable that the (d) oily medium may comprise synthetic ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0314] The quantity of the (d) oily medium(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be equal to or greater than 5% by weight, preferably equal to or greater than 10% by weight, more preferably equal to or greater than 15% by weight, and even more preferably equal to or greater than 20% by weight; and / or may be equal to or less than 70% by weight, preferably equal to or less than 60% by weight, more preferably equal to or less than 50% by weight, and even more preferably equal to or less than 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0315] The quantity of the (d) oily medium(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 15% to 50% by weight, and even more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients • Lipophilic organic UV filter
[0316] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one lipophilic organic UV filter. Two or more lipophilic organic UV filters may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of lipophilic organic UV filter or a combination of different types of lipophilic organic UV filters may be used.
[0317] The term “UV” here includes the UV-B region (260–320 nm wavelength), the UV-A region (320–400 nm wavelength), and the high-energy visible light region (400–450 nm wavelength). Therefore, a UV filter designates any material that has filtering effects in the wavelength of UV rays, especially the UV-A, UV-B and high-energy visible light regions.
[0318] The UV filter(s) used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region, preferably in each of the UV-A and UV-B regions, alone or in combination. Therefore, the UV filter(s) used in the present invention includes a UV-A filter capable of absorbing UV radiation from 320-400 nm, a UV-B filter capable of absorbing UV radiation from 280-320 nm, and a UV-A and UV-B filter capable of absorbing UV radiation from 280-400 nm.
[0319] The expression "lipophilic UV filter" here refers to UV filters that are soluble in oils at a concentration of at least 1% by weight, for example at least 5% by weight or at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oils at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).
[0320] The lipophilic organic UV filter can be solid or liquid. The terms "solid" and "liquid" mean solid and liquid, at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).
[0321] The lipophilic organic UV-A filters used in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, aminobenzophenone compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, anthranilic acid compounds and 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds.
[0322] Examples of aminobenzophenone compounds include n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, whose alternative name is hexyl diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate (DHHB), sold under the trade name "Uvinul A+" by BASF.
[0323] Examples of dibenzoylmethane compounds include 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, sold under the name "Eusolex 8020" by Merck, l-(4-methoxy-l-benzofuran-5-yl)-3-phenylpropane-l,3-dione, sold under the name "Pongamol" by Quest, l-(4-(tert-butyl)phenyl)-3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)propane-l,3-dione, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold under the trade name "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann-La Roche.
[0324] As examples of anthranilic acid compounds, one can cite menthyl anthranilate marketed under the name "NEO HELIPAN MA" by Symrise.
[0325] Examples of 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds include 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene and diphenylbutadiene malonates and malononitriles.
[0326] The lipophilic organic UV-B filters used in the present invention may include, but are not limited to, triazine compounds, para-aminobenzoic acid compounds, salicylic compounds, cinnamate compounds, compounds [3,[3-diphenylacrylate, benzylidenecamphor compounds, phenylbenzimidazole compounds, imidazoline compounds, benzalmalonate compounds and merocyanine compounds.
[0327] Examples of triazine compounds include ethylhexyl triazone, marketed under the name "UVINUL T-150" by BASF, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the name "UVASORB HEB" by SIGMA 2V, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, and 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine.
[0328] Examples of para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives include para-aminobenzoates (PABA), for example, ethyl PABA (para-aminobenzoate), ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed under the name "ESCALOL 5972" by ISP.
[0329] Examples of salicylic compounds include homosalate, marketed under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries, and ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS" by Symrise.
[0330] Examples of cinnamate compounds include ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the name "PARSOL CX" by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, isopropyl ethoxy cinnamate, isoamyl methoxy cinnamate, marketed under the name "NEO HELIOPAN E 1000" by Symrise, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, glyceryl cinoxate and ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
[0331] Examples of [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds include octocrylene, marketed under the name "UVINUL N539" by BASF, and etocrylene, marketed under the name "UVINUL N35" by BASF.
[0332] Examples of benzylidenecamphor compounds include 3-benzylidene camphor, marketed under the name "MEXORYL SD" by CHIMEX, methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the name "EUSOLEX 6300" by MERCK, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, marketed under the name "MEXORYL SW" by CHIMEX, and terephthalylidene diamphr sulfonic acid, marketed under the name "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex.
[0333] Examples of phenylbenzimidazole compounds include phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed under the name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan AP" by Haarmann and Reimer.
[0334] Examples of imidazoline compounds include ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene propionate dioxoimidazoline.
[0335] Examples of benzalmalonate compounds include a polyorganosiloxane containing a benzalmalonate fraction, for example, Polysilicone-15, marketed under the name "Parsol SLX" by DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS, and dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.
[0336] The lipophilic organic UV filters of the present invention may include lipophilic organic UV-A and UV-B filters, which cover the UV-A and UV-B regions. The following are non-limiting examples of lipophilic organic UV-A and UV-B filters:
[0337] - benzophenone compounds, such as benzophenone-1 marketed under the name “UVINUL 400” by BASF, benzophenone-2 marketed under the name “UVINUL 500” by BASF, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone marketed under the name “UVINUL M40” by BASF, benzophenone-6 marketed under the name “Helisorb 11” by Norquay, benzophenone-8 marketed under the name “Spectra-Sorb UV-24” by American Cyanamid, benzophenone-10, benzophenone-11, and benzophenone-12;
[0338] - benzotriazole compounds such as drometrizole trisiloxane marketed under the name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie, bumetrizole marketed under the name "TINOGUARTD AS" by CIBA-GEIGY and the phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear;
[0339] - bis-resorcinyl triazine compounds, such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the name "TINOSORB S" by CIBA-GEIGY; and
[0340] - benzoxazole compounds, such as 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2- yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, marketed under the name "Uvasorb K2A" by Sigma 3V.
[0341] Preferably, the lipophilic organic UV filter can be selected from aminobenzophenone compounds, such as diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB), dibenzoylmethane compounds, such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, triazine compounds, such as ethylhexyl triazone, salicylic compounds, such as homosalate, [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds, such as octocrylene, and benzotriazole compounds, such as drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0342] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the lipophilic organic UV filter of the present invention comprises a combination of at least one lipophilic organic UV-A filter and at least one lipophilic organic UV-B filter.
[0343] Therefore, in another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the lipophilic organic UV filter comprises at least one lipophilic organic UV-A filter selected from aminobenzophenone compounds and dibenzoylmethane compounds, and at least one lipophilic organic UV-B filter selected from triazine compounds, salicylic compounds, [3,[3-diphenylacrylate compounds and benzotriazole compounds.
[0344] The quantity of the lipophilic organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0345] In a particular embodiment of the present invention, the quantity of the lipophilic organic UV-A filter(s) in the composition can range from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0346] In another particular embodiment of the present invention, the quantity of the lipophilic organic UV-B filter(s) in the composition can be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0347] In yet another particular embodiment of the present invention, the quantity of the lipophilic organic UV-A and UV-B filter(s) in the composition can be from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 7% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent#
[0348] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent.Cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) may include, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; Polyols or polyol ethers, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, sorbitol, monomethyl-, monoethyl- and monobutyl-ethylene glycol ethers, propylene glycol ethers, such as monomethyl propylene glycol ether, diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether; polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-4, PEG-6 and PEG-8, and their derivatives, and any combination thereof.
[0349] The quantity of cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Water
[0350] The composition according to the present invention may include water.
[0351] Water can form aqueous phases, in particular multiple, discontinuous aqueous phases, dispersed in droplet form in the form of the W / H emulsion composition according to the present invention.
[0352] The amount of water in the composition may be 2% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, and even more preferably 15% by weight or more, and 60% by weight or less, preferably 50% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, and even more preferably 35% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0353] The amount of water in the composition can range from 2% to 60% by weight, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Surfactant
[0354] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one surfactant selected from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants, used alone or in a mixture. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.
[0355] Examples of non-ionic surfactants usable in the compositions of the invention may include polyethoxylated fatty alcohols or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as ethylene oxide adducts with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene motifs (Laureth-9 to Laureth-50, according to the INCI names), in particular Laureth-9; esters of polyols and a fatty acid having a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylated derivatives, i.e. comprising oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs, such as esters of glycerol and a C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylated derivatives, in particular polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tristearate), for example PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate;C8-C24 sugar and fatty acid esters and their oxyalkylated derivatives, such as polyethoxylated sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, in particular Polysorbate 80, such as the product marketed as "TWEEN 80" by Croda; C8-C24 sugar and fatty alcohol ethers, such as caprylyl / capryl glucoside; polyoxyethylenated alkyl ethers; oxypropylene polyoxyethylenated alkyl ethers; fatty acid alkanol amides; alkylamine oxides; alkyl polyglycosides and silicone surfactants, such as polydimethylsiloxane; containing oxyethylene groups and / or oxypropylene groups, for example, PEG-10 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-20 / 20 dimethicone and PEG / PPG-20 / 6 dimethicone, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular those having an alkyl radical of 10 to 22 carbon atoms and having 2 to 50 oxyethylene groups and 2 to 50 oxypropylene groups, such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol (INCI name: Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Dimethicone), and lauryl dimethicone copolyol (INCI name: Lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Methicone); and a polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate and polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and mixtures thereof.
[0356] In addition, by way of non-ionic surfactants, alkyl polyglycosides, represented by the following general formula (1), may be mentioned:
[0357] RO-(G)X(1)
[0358] wherein R represents a branched and / or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and x denotes a value from 1 to 10, and preferably from 1 to 4, and G denotes in particular glucose, fructose, or galactose. Examples of alkyl polyglycosides of this type include alkyl polyglucosides (G = glucose in formula (I)), and in particular compounds of formula (I) in which R more particularly represents an oleyl radical (unsaturated Ci8 radical) or isostearyl radical (saturated Ci8 radical), G denotes glucose, and x is a value from 1 to 2, in particular isostearyl glycoside, oleyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.This alkyl polyglucoside can be used in a mixture with a co-emulsifier, particularly a fatty alcohol, and especially one having the same fatty chain as the alkyl polyglucoside, i.e., comprising 14 to 24 carbon atoms and having a branched and / or unsaturated chain. For example, isostearyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is isostearyl glucoside, and oleyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is oleyl glucoside. Examples include the mixture of isostearyl glucoside and isostearyl alcohol, sold under the name Montanov WO 18 by Seppic, and also the mixture of octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside sold under the name Fludanov 20X by Seppic.
[0359] The quantity of the surfactant(s) in the composition may be from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0360] The present invention may have the feature that the stable composition including dispersed hydrophilic fillers can be achieved with a small amount of surfactants. The small amount of surfactants can contribute to improving durability and the light texture of the composition. Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the quantity of the surfactant(s) in the composition may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and in particular 3% by weight or less.
[0361] In another embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises anionic and / or cationic surfactants in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and in particular 0.1% by weight or less. In yet another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is free of anionic and / or cationic surfactants. • Inorganic UV filter
[0362] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one inorganic UV filter. Two or more inorganic UV filters may be combined.
[0363] The inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic. The inorganic UV filter is preferably insoluble in solvents such as water and ethanol commonly used in cosmetics.
[0364] The inorganic UV filter used for the present invention is different from (b) powder of the present invention.
[0365] It is preferable that the inorganic UV filter be in the form of a fine particle such that its average (primary) particle diameter ranges from 1 nm to 150 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 100 nm, and more preferably from 10 nm to 50 nm. The average (primary) particle size or average (primary) particle diameter is here an arithmetic mean diameter.
[0366] The inorganic UV filter can be chosen from the group consisting of metal oxides which may be coated or not, and mixtures thereof.
[0367] Preferably, the inorganic UV filters can be selected from pigments (average size of primary particles: generally from 5 nm to 50 nm, preferably from 10 nm to 50 nm) formed from metal oxides, such as, for example, pigments formed from titanium dioxide (amorphous or crystalline in the form of rutile and / or anatase), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, or cerium oxide, all of which are well-known UV photoprotective agents. Preferably, the inorganic UV filters can be selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and more preferably titanium dioxide.
[0368] The inorganic UV filter may be coated or uncoated. The inorganic UV filter may have at least one coating. The coating may comprise at least one compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids, or their salts (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron, or aluminium), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters and (per)fluorinated compounds.
[0369] In a known manner, silicones in the coating or coatings may be organosilicon polymers or oligomers comprising a linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes and essentially composed of repeated main motifs in which silicon atoms are linked to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked to said silicon atoms by a carbon atom.
[0370] The silicones used for the coating(s) may preferably be chosen from the group consisting of alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. More preferably still, the silicones are chosen from the group consisting of octyltrimethylsilanes, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrosiloxanes.
[0371] Of course, inorganic UV filters made of metal oxides may, before their treatment with silicones, have been treated with other surfacing agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
[0372] The quantity of the inorganic UV filter(s) in the composition can range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Adjuvants
[0373] The compositions according to the present invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for sun care products, which may be selected from a physiologically acceptable medium, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof, antioxidants, neutralizing agents, alkali agents, such as sodium hydroxide, sequestering agents, such as trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, disodium EDTA and phytin acid, buffers, such as tromethamine, perfumes, emollients, dispersing agents, dyes and / or pigments, film-forming agents, such as film-forming silicone resin, for example trimethylsiloxysilicate, thickeners, ceramides, preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol, co-preservatives and opacifying agents.
[0374] The adjuvants may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0375] The composition according to the present invention comprises a microplastic filler in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.05% by weight or less, and in particular 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0376] Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention is free of microplastic filler.
[0377] The composition according to the present invention can be intended for use as a topical cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended for application to keratinous material. Keratinous material here means material containing keratin as its principal constituent, and examples thereof include skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and the like. In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic skincare composition for sun protection against UV rays.
[0378] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients (a) to (d), as essential ingredients, and optional ingredient(s), as explained above.
[0379] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 0.01% to 5% by weight of (a) at least one cationic polymer having a molecular weight from 20,000 to 500,000 chosen from polyamines; b. from 1% to 30% by weight of (b) at least one hydrophilic filler selected from talc, mica, silica, magnesium aluminium silicate, silica silicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorophlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, lauroyl lysine, a metallic soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate and natural polymer powders, such as polysaccharide powders, for example, starch, cellulose powder, and mixtures thereof; c. from 0.05% to 5% by weight of (c) at least organically modified clay selected from organically modified bentonites and organically modified hectorites; and d. 5% to 70% by weight of (d) oily medium comprising ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0380] According to yet another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 0.1% to 1% by weight of (a) at least one cationic polymer having a molecular weight from 20,000 to 500,000 chosen from chitosan, polylysine, and a mixture thereof; b. 10% to 15% by weight of (b) at least one hydrophilic filler chosen from silica, starch, cellulose powder, and mixtures thereof; c. 0.2% to 1% by weight of (c) at least organically modified clay selected from hectorites and bentonites modified with a quaternary ammonium chloride in C10 to C22; and d. 20% to 40% by weight of (d) oily medium comprising ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. cosmetic process
[0381] The present invention also relates to:
[0382] a cosmetic process for a keratinous material such as skin, comprising: the application to the keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention.
[0383] The composition according to the present invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition can be a sun care composition to protect keratinous materials, such as skin, against UV rays.
[0384] The cosmetic process here refers to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of the surface of a keratinous material such as the skin.
[0385] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for protecting keratinous materials against UV radiation, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous material, such as the skin. EXAMPLES
[0386] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which, however, should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. Compositions
[0387] Each of the W / O emulsion compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 3) and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 (Ex. comp. 1 to Ex. comp. 4) was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1 below. Specifically, the W / O emulsion compositions were prepared by first mixing the ingredients of the "oil phase" and the ingredients of the "aqueous phase," and then adding Add the "filler" ingredients and ethanol to the mixture, then blend until homogeneous. The numerical values in parentheses for the powdered ingredients indicate the average particle size of the powdered ingredients. "Oiled medium" in the tables indicates the ingredients of the (d) oiled medium other than "Dimethicone." The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials. Assessment Viscosity
[0388] The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was measured using a type B viscometer with a rotor no. 4, at 6 rpm at room temperature (25 °C). The measurement was carried out for one minute. Stability
[0389] Each of the emulsion compositions obtained in a beaker was stored at 25 °C for 5 days after its preparation. The appearance of each sample was then observed with the naked eye. The stability property was evaluated for each composition according to the following criteria.
[0390] 1: No phase separation was observed
[0391] 2: A slight phase separation was observed, but the product is still well stable
[0392] 3: A phase separation was clearly observed. Load aggregation
[0393] The charge aggregation status was observed microscopically in the bulk of each of the emulsion compositions. The charge aggregation status was evaluated for each composition according to the following criteria.
[0394] 1: No charge aggregation was observed
[0395] 2: A slight charge aggregation was observed
[0396] 3: A charge aggregation was clearly observed. Permittivity
[0397] The bulk permittivity of each of the emulsion compositions was measured using a multimeter (Orion™ Versa Star, Thermo Fisher Scientific) under ambient conditions.
[0398] The results are shown in Table 2 below.
[0399] [Tables 1] Phase Ingredients Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. com p. 1 Ex. com p. 2 Ex. com p. 3 Ex. com p.4 Oily phase Organic lipophilic UV filter 21.5 21.5 21.5 21.5 21.5 21.5 21.5 Oily medium 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 16.7 Surfactants 2.5 - - - - - - Disteardium imonium hectorite 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 - Dimethicone QS1 00 QS1 00 QS1 00 QS1 00 QS1 00 QS1 00 QS1 00 Aqueous phase Water 26.1 26.1 26.1 26.1 26.1 26.1 26.1 Chitosan (Pm 26600-27300) 0.3 - - - - - - Chitosan (Wt 1100,000) - 0.3 - - - - - Chitosan (Wt 310,000-375,000) - - 0.3 - - - - Chitosan (Wt 1500,000) - - - 0.3 - - - Chitosan (Wt <50,000) - - - - 0.3 - - Phytic acid - - - - - 0.035 - Lactic acid 0.177 0.177 0.177 - 0.177 - - Sodium hydroxide - - - - - 0.00185 - Cellulose (10 µm) 6.6 6.6 6.6 6.6 6.6 6.6 - Silica (4 µm) 5.9 5.9 5.9 5.9 5.9 5.9 - Nyrone-12 - - - - - - 3 PMMA - - - - - - 3 Ethanol 8 8 8 8 8 8 8
[0400] [Tables2] Evaluation Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. comp. 1 Ex. comp. 2 Ex. comp. 3 Ex. comp. 4 Viscosity (Pa-s) 5.4 5.7 4.5 5.0 4.7 4.2 5.4 Stability 2 2 1 3 2 3 1 Charge Aggregation 1 1 1 3 3 3 1 Permittivity 0.16 0.32 0.67 4.64 0.25 0.45 0
[0401] As can be seen from the evaluation results in Table 2, the W / O emulsion compositions according to Examples 1 to 3, which include the combination of (a) cationic polymer having a molecular weight ranging from 20,000 to 500,000, (b) hydrophilic filler and (c) organically modified clay, exhibited low viscosity, good stability, and no filler aggregation, although they did not include microplastic fillers.
[0402] On the other hand, charge aggregation was observed in the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3, which do not include the (a) cationic polymer of the present invention.
[0403] Therefore, it can be concluded that the W / O emulsion composition according to the present invention is highly preferable as a cosmetic sun care composition.
Claims
Demands
1. A water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion composition comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer having a molecular weight from 20,000 g / mol to 500,000 g / mol; (b) at least one hydrophilic filler; (c) at least one organically modified clay; and (d) at least one oily medium, wherein the composition comprises a microplastic filler in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, or the composition is free of microplastic filler.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the cationic polymer (a) is selected from polyamines.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cationic polymer (a) is selected from chitosan, polylysine, and a mixture thereof.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydrophilic filler (b) is selected from talc, mica, silica, magnesium aluminium silicate, silica silicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorophlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, perlite, lauroyl lysine, a metallic soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate and natural polymer powders, such as polysaccharide powders, for example, starch, cellulose powder, and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the hydrophilic filler (b) comprises two or more types of hydrophilic fillers (b).
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the organically modified clay (c) is selected from organically modified hectorites and organically modified bentonites.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the cationic polymer (a) is present in an amount from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the hydrophilic filler (b) is present in an amount from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 8% to 18% by weight, and in particular from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the organically modified clay (c) is present in an amount from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the oily medium (d) is present in an amount of 5% to 80% by weight, preferably 10% to 70% by weight, more preferably 20% to 60% by weight, and even more preferably 30% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.