COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS containing lauryl laurate and semi-crystalline polymers

Lauryl laurate and semi-crystalline polymers with alkyl acrylate chains in cosmetic compositions address stickiness and spreading issues, resulting in stable, pleasant, and easy-to-use formulations.

FR3165390A3Pending Publication Date: 2026-02-13LOREAL SA
View PDF 0 Cites 0 Cited by

Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024008739
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-08-07
Publication Date
2026-02-13
Estimated Expiration
2034-08-07

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Cosmetic compositions often exhibit stickiness, tackiness, and poor spreading characteristics, leading to an undesirable application experience for consumers.

Method used

The combination of lauryl laurate and semi-crystalline polymers containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain in cosmetic compositions, which can be in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, reduces stickiness and enhances spreading properties.

Benefits of technology

The compositions provide a stable, aesthetically pleasing, and easy-to-use solution that minimizes sticky feelings without adding negative sensory attributes, offering improved tactile properties and application ease.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS containing lauryl laurate and semi-crystalline polymers. This disclosure relates to a composition, including a cosmetic composition, particularly for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: lauryl laurate and at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain. Figure for the abstract: none
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS containing lauryl laurate and semi-crystalline polymers SCOPE OF DISCLOSURE

[0001] This disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions which include lauryl laurate and a semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain and processes for treating skin with the cosmetic composition. CONTEXT

[0002] Many compositions, particularly cosmetic compositions, have been developed for easy and comfortable application to a targeted substrate. Unfortunately, many of these compositions are actually difficult to apply and do not provide a smooth feel upon application. Furthermore, the compositions often tend to produce a sticky sensation, resulting in poor application and spreading characteristics. This sticky, tacky feeling is undesirable for consumers. Several approaches, such as the use of mild emollients, powders, or combinations thereof, can reduce stickiness; however, the resulting cosmetic compositions may not offer sufficient appeal to the consumer and may still exhibit residual stickiness that can be felt on the skin after application.Therefore, it is desirable to offer a composition that is non-sticky, spreads easily, and is pleasant for consumers.

[0003] A cosmetic composition and processes for the use and production of cosmetic compositions which do not suffer from one or more of the above disadvantages would be desirable in art.

[0004] There is a need for compositions that are not sticky, not too thick, not too rich, not too difficult to spread, and not too greasy. The inventors of this disclosure have discovered unique cosmetic compositions and a method for using the compositions that meet these and other needs. SUMMARY

[0005] This disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions containing lauryl laurate and semi-crystalline polymers containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain. The compositions are stable, have pleasant tactile properties, are aesthetically pleasing, and easy to use. This unique combination allows for a reduction in the sticky feeling in an emulsion-based skincare formula without adding any negative sensory attributes.

[0006] One way to mitigate tackiness is to add insoluble powders or fillers (e.g., silica, cellulose), but this increases the risk of spreading difficulties and buildup during application. Furthermore, heavier oils and higher oil levels can also help to mask tackiness, at the cost of a formula that is too greasy and has an overly glossy appearance. While some waxy ingredients (e.g., alcohols / fatty acids, highly meltable natural waxes) can mask tackiness, they can also leave too much waxy residue that is difficult to spread.

[0007] The inventors have discovered that the combination of lauryl laurate and semi-crystalline polymers containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain eliminates or considerably reduces the stickiness caused by humectants, polymers, certain active ingredients, polyols and the like.

[0008] The cosmetic composition includes: a. lauryl laurate; and b. at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain.

[0009] In some cases, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0010] In one or more embodiments, lauryl laurate is present from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] In some embodiments, the compositions may include at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain selected from homopolymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates and from copolymers obtained by copolymerization of a monomer selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof. In one or more embodiments, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is / are selected from polystearyl acrylate, polybehenyl acrylate, behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, and one of their mixtures.In some embodiments, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is / are selected from the group consisting of C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, C12-22 alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof. In one or more embodiments, the content of the semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is present from approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] In one or more embodiments, the compositions may further comprise one or more polymer thickeners. In various embodiments, the one or more polymer thickeners are present from approximately 0.05 to approximately 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] In one or more embodiments, the compositions may further comprise one or more fatty compounds. In some embodiments, the one or more fatty compounds are present from approximately 0.1 to approximately 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] In various embodiments, the compositions may further comprise one or more surfactants. In some embodiments, the one or more surfactants are present from approximately 0.05 to approximately 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] In one or more embodiments, the compositions may further comprise one or more cutaneous active agents. In some embodiments, the total quantity of cutaneous active agents is at least approximately 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] In one or more embodiments, the compositions may further comprise one or more water-soluble solvents. In some embodiments, the one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from the group consisting of glycerin, C2-C5 monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof. In one or more embodiments, the one or more water-soluble solvents are present from approximately 0.1 to approximately 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] Another aspect of this disclosure may include a cosmetic composition comprising: i. of about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of lauryl laurate; ii. of about 0.1 to about 3% by weight of C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate; iii. of about 0.05 to about 5% by weight of one or more polymer thickeners; iv. from about 0.05 to about 15% by weight of one or more surfactants; v. of approximately 0.05 to approximately 15% by weight of one or more fatty compounds; vi. of about 0.1 to about 20% by weight of one or more cutaneous active agents; vii. of about 0.1 to about 30% by weight of one or more water-soluble solvents selected from glycerin, C2-C5 monoalcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols and mixtures thereof; wherein all percentages by weight are based on a total weight of the composition.

[0018] Another aspect of this disclosure relates to a skin treatment method. The methods include applying the cosmetic composition according to this disclosure to the skin, in particular facial skin.

[0019] It must be understood that both the preceding general description and the detailed description that follows are provided by way of example and explanation only, and do not limit the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0020] The compositions described in this case are particularly useful for treating skin, especially facial skin. The composition may be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion. The compositions typically include: a. lauryl laurate; b. at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain. lauryl laurate

[0021] In some embodiments, the composition may include lauryl laurate.For example, compositions may include an amount of lauryl laurate ranging from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 5% by weight, from approximately 0.15% by weight to approximately 4.9% by weight, from approximately 0.2% by weight to approximately 4.8% by weight, from approximately 0.25% by weight to approximately 4.7% by weight, from approximately 0.3% by weight to approximately 4.6% by weight, from approximately 0.35% by weight to approximately 4.5% by weight, from approximately 0.4% by weight to approximately 4.4% by weight, from approximately 0.45% by weight to approximately 4.3% by weight, from approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 4.2% by weight, from approximately 0.55% by weight to approximately 4.1% by weight, from approximately 0.6% by weight to approximately 4.0% by weight, from approximately 0.7% by weight to about 3.8% by weight, from about 0.8% by weight to about 3.6% by weight, from about 1% by weight to about 3.5% by weight, from about 1.5% by weight to about 3% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0022] Semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain

[0023] In various embodiments, the compositions may include at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain.

[0024] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain, the alkyl radicals preferably being in C16-C22.

[0025] For the purposes of this disclosure, the term "semi-crystalline polymers" is understood to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable portion, a chain or pendant sequence in the backbone, and an amorphous portion in the skeleton, and exhibiting a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular a melting point (solid-liquid transition).

[0026] When the crystallizable portion is a sequence of the polymer skeleton, this crystallizable sequence has a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous sequences; the semi-crystalline polymer is, in this case, a sequenced polymer, such as diblock, triblock or multiblock, comprising at least one crystallizable sequence and at least one amorphous sequence.

[0027] By "sequence", we generally mean at least 5 identical repeating motifs. The crystallizable sequence(s) is / are then of a different chemical nature from the 5 amorphous sequences.

[0028] Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain of the composition of the present disclosure has an average molecular weight (Mn) equal to or greater than about 2000 g / mol, preferably about 2000 to 800,000 g / mol, preferably about 3000 to 500,000 g / mol, preferably about 4000 to 150,000 g / mol, and preferably about 4000 to 99,000 g / mol.

[0029] Apart from crystallizable chains or sequences, polymer sequences are amorphous.

[0030] For the purposes of this disclosure, the term "crystallizable chain or sequence" means a chain or sequence that, if alone, would reversibly transition from an amorphous to a crystalline state, depending on whether the temperature is above or below its melting point. For the purposes of this disclosure, a chain is a group of atoms that is pendant or lateral to the polymer backbone. A sequence is a group of atoms that belong to the backbone, this group constituting one of the repeating motifs of the polymer. Advantageously, the "pendant crystallizable chain" may be a chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.

[0031] Preferably, the polymer skeleton of semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the oily phase.

[0032] Thus, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain which is used in the composition of the present disclosure is generally introduced into the oily phase of the composition.

[0033] Preferably, the crystallizable sequences or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain represent at least about 30% by weight and, preferably, at least about 40% by weight relative to the total weight of each polymer.

[0034] Semi-crystalline polymers comprising crystallizable sequences used according to this disclosure are sequenced or multiblock polymers. They can can be obtained by polymerization of monomers bearing reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of this disclosure are polymers bearing crystallizable side chains, these polymers are advantageously in random or statistical form.

[0035] The semi-crystalline polymers of the present disclosure may be of synthetic origin. Furthermore, they do not comprise a polysaccharide backbone.

[0036] The semi-crystalline polymers of the composition of this disclosure may or may not be partially crosslinked. This may be a case of chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a multifunctional monomer during polymerization. It may also be a case of physical crosslinking, which may then be due either to the formation of hydrogen or dipolar bonds between groups carried by the polymer, such as dipolar interactions between carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being present in small quantities and carried by the polymer backbone; or due to phase separation between the crystallizable sequences and the amorphous sequences carried by the polymer.

[0037] Preferably, semi-crystalline polymers containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain of the composition according to this disclosure are non-crosslinked.

[0038] Examples of semi-crystalline polymers according to this disclosure containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain include those resulting from the polymerization of one or more saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0039] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers bearing a crystallizable side chain are alkyl(meth)acrylate homopolymers, or copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer.

[0040] According to a particular embodiment of this disclosure, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is derived from a monomer bearing a crystallizable chain selected from saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates and more particularly poly(stearyl acrylates) or poly(behenyl acrylates).

[0041] According to another particular embodiment of this disclosure, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is selected from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer bearing a crystallizable chain and selected from saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0042] According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is selected from homopolymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, and from copolymers obtained by copolymerization of a monomer selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably N-vinylpyrrolidone or a (meth)acrylate of hydroxyethyl, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably a (meth)acrylate of hydroxyethyl, and mixtures thereof.

[0043] By way of particular examples of semi-crystalline polymers which may be used in the composition according to this disclosure, one may mention homopolymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, preferably from stearyl acrylates and behenyl acrylates, in particular polymers bearing the INCI name Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate such as the Intelimer® products of Evonik, such as the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1, which is a polystearyl acrylate, or the product Intelimer® IPA 13-6, which is a behenyl polymer (polybehenyl acrylate), or the Tego® SP products of Evonik.

[0044] By way of particular examples of semi-crystalline polymers which can be used in the composition, one can also mention copolymers obtained by copolymerization of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably a (meth)acrylate of hydroxyethyl, in particular the copolymers described in applications FR 3 073 405 and FR 3 073 406, and preferably copolymers obtained by copolymerization of at least one monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates, preferably from behenyl acrylates, stearyl acrylates and mixtures thereof, with a hydrophilic monomer such as (meth)acrylate of hydroxyethyl and N-vinylpyrrolidone, and preferably hydroxyethyl acrylate.

[0045] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is a behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, a stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer and / or a mixture thereof and, in particular, the polymer bearing the INCI name: Poly Cl2-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer, sold in particular under the name Tego SP Senstar by the Evonik Company.

[0046] According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is / are selected from a polystearyl acrylate, a polybehenyl acrylate, a behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, a stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof, in particular selected from the polymer bearing the INCI name: Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, the copolymer bearing the INCI name C12-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethyl acrylate Copolymer, and mixtures thereof, more particularly the polymer bearing the INCI name: Cl2-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer.

[0047] According to a more preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is a polymer bearing the INCI name: Cl2-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer.

[0048] More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises, as a semi-crystalline polymer, at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer containing monomeric motifs of formulas (A) and (B):

[0049] [chem. 1]

[0050] in which:

[0051] Ri, independently in each case, is chosen from among the alkyl or alkenyl radicals,

[0052] and

[0053] at least 60% by weight of the Ri groups are radicals chosen from among the stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight being relative to the sum of all the Ri groups present in the polymer,

[0054] and

[0055] the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate motifs to the sum of all acrylate motifs bearing the Ri group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1,

[0056] and the sum of the total of motifs A and B is at least 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer.

[0057] Preferably, Ri consists of alkyl radicals, preferably alkyl radicals in Ci6-C22, and preferably stearyl radicals (Ci8) or behenyl radicals (C22).

[0058] Preferably, at least 70% by weight of the Ri groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals, preferably at least 80% by weight and more preferably at least 90% by weight.

[0059] According to a preferred embodiment, all Ri groups are behenyl radicals.

[0060] According to another preferred embodiment, all Ri groups are stearyl radicals.

[0061] Preferably, the weight ratio between the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate motifs and the sum of all acrylate motifs bearing the Ri group ranges from 1:15 to 1:1, preferably from 1:10 to 1:4.

[0062] The polymer has a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 5000 to 9000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weight can be measured by the gel permeation chromatography method, for example according to the method described in the example below.

[0063] Preferably, the polymer has a melting point in the range of 40 °C to 70 °C and preferably in the range of 45 °C to 67 °C. The melting point is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to the method described in the example below.

[0064] According to a first embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the Ri groups are stearyl radicals, in this case, the polymer preferably has a melting point ranging from 40 °C to 60 °C, and preferably ranging from 45 °C to 55 °C.

[0065] According to a second embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the Ri groups are behenyl radicals, then the polymer has a melting point ranging from 60 °C to 70 °C, and preferably ranging from 63 °C to 67 °C.

[0066] The polymer used according to the invention can be prepared by polymerization of a monomer having the formula below:

[0067] CH2=CH-COO-Ri,

[0068] Polymerization can be carried out according to known processes, such as solution polymerization or emulsion polymerization.

[0069] Polymerization is described, for example, in US document 2007 / 0264204.

[0070] The total quantity of at least one semi-crystalline polymer will vary.

[0071] The semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain may be present in the composition according to this disclosure in an active material content ranging from about 0.1% by weight to about 3% by weight relative to a total weight of the composition.

[0072] In certain embodiments, at least one or more semi-crystalline polymers are present from approximately 0.1 to approximately 2.9% by weight, from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 2.8% by weight, from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 2.6% by weight, from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 2.4% by weight, from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 2.2% by weight, from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 2.0% by weight, from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 1.8% by weight, from approximately 0.2% by weight to approximately 3% by weight, from approximately 0.2% by weight to approximately 2.9% by weight, from approximately 0.2% by weight to approximately 2.8% by weight, from approximately 0.2% by weight to approximately 2.6% by weight, approximately 0.2%by weight to approximately 2.4% by weight, from approximately 0.2% by weight to approximately 2.2% by weight, from approximately 0.2% by weight to approximately 2.0% by weight, from approximately 0.2% by weight to approximately 1.8% by weight, from approximately 0.3% by weight to approximately 3% by weight, from approximately 0.3% by weight to approximately 2.9% by weight, from approximately 0.3% by weight to approximately 2.8% by weight, from approximately 0.3% by weight to approximately 2.6% by weight, from approximately 0.3% by weight to approximately 2.4% by weight, from approximately 0.3% by weight to approximately 2.2% by weight, from approximately 0.3% by weight to approximately 2.0% by weight, from approximately 0.3% by weight to approximately 1.8% by weight, from approximately 0.4% by weight to approximately 3.0 % by weight, 0.4% to approximately 2.9% by weight, from approximately 0.4% by weight to approximately 2.8% by weight, from approximately 0.4% by weight to approximately 2.6% by weight, from approximately 0.4% by weight to approximately 2.4% by weight, from approximately 0.4% by weight to approximately 2.2% by weight, from approximately 0.4% by weight to approximately 2.0% by weight, from approximately 0.4% by weight to approximately 1.8% by weight, from approximately 0,5% by weight to approximately 3.0% by weight, from approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 2.9% by weight, from approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 2.8% by weight, from approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 2.6% by weight, from approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 2.4% by weight, from approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 2.2% by weight, from approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 2.0% by weight, or from approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 1.8% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Therefore, the amount of at least one or more semi-crystalline polymers in the composition according to this disclosure can be from about 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0, 2.2 to about 2.2, 2.4, 2.6, 2.8, 3.0% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polymer thickeners

[0074] In various embodiments, the compositions may include one or more polymer thickeners.

[0075] According to this disclosure, the appropriate polymer thickeners of this disclosure could be selected from acrylic or acrylate-based polymers.

[0076] The polymers are pre-neutralized and preferably selected from taurate polymers. These polymers comprise an ionic monomer portion, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), and another less polar monomer portion (vinylpyrrolidone or beheneth-25 methacrylate). These polymers are used as polymeric thickeners.

[0077] Examples of taurate polymers are the crosslinked acrylate / vinyl isodecanoate polymer (3V's Stabylen 30), the ammonium-acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer (Clarant's Aristoflex AVC), and the crosslinked ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate polymer (Aristoflex Clariant's HMB), aceth-20 acrylate / itaconate copolymer (National Starch's Structure 3001), polyacrylamide (SEPPIC's Sepigel 305), a non-ionic thickener (Rohm and Haas's Aculyn46) or mixtures thereof.

[0078] Anionic polymers can be polymers with anionic groups distributed along the polymer backbone. The anionic groups, which can include carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, nitrate, or other negatively charged or ionizable groups, can be arranged on pendant groups of the backbone or can be incorporated into the backbone itself.

[0079] Anionic polymers may include at least one hydrophilic motif of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic motif exclusively of an alkyl ester (C10-C30) of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type.

[0080] Useful anionic polymers here include, for example: polyacrylic acid; polymethacrylic acid; carboxyvinyl polymer; acrylate copolymers such as C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylic acid / vinyl ester / nymyl isodecanoate crosslinked acrylates copolymer, acrylates / Palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylate / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer and acrylate / ceth-20 itaconate copolymer; sulfonate polymers such as polysulfonic acid, sodium polystyrene sulfonate supplied by Akzo Nobel under the trade name FKEXAN II, methacrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid copolymers, and acrylic acid and acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid copolymers; carboxymethylcellulose; guar gum carboxy; ethylene maleic acid copolymers and acrylate silicone polymer.In some cases, anionic polymers include, for example, carbomer supplied by Noveon under the trade names CARBOPOL 981 and CARBOPOL 980; C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers with the trade names PEMULEN TR-1, PEMULEN TR-2, CARBOPOL 1342, CARBOPOL 1382 and CARBOPOL ETD 2020, all available from Noveon; sodium carboxymethylcellulose supplied by Hercules in the CMC series; and acrylate copolymer with the trade name Capigel supplied by Seppic; carbomers, acrylate copolymer with the trade name CARBOPOL Aqua SF-1 and available from Lubrizol in aqueous dispersion, and acrylate-4 crosslinked polymer with the trade name CARBOPOL Aqua SF-2 and available from Lubrizol in aqueous dispersion.

[0081] In one embodiment, the anionic polymer of this disclosure is a carbomer that may be commercially available from the supplier Lubrizol under the trade name CARBOPOL 980. Some examples of nonionic polymers might be the following:

[0082] (i) hydroxyethylcellulose, for example the product NATROSOL 250 HHR PC or NATROSOL 250 HHR CS sold by the company Ashland;

[0083] (ii) celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples that may be cited include:

[0084] - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fat chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably at C8-C22, for example the product NATROSOL Plus Grade 330 CS (alkyls in Cl6) sold by the Ashland company, or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the AkzoNobel company; methyl hydroxyethylcellulose; methyl ethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, known as STRUCTURE CEL 8000 M sold by the AkzoNobel company or hydroxypropyl cellulose, known as the product KLUCEL MF PHARM HYDROXYPROPYLCELLULOSOSE sold by the Ashland company;

[0085] - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with alkylphenyl ether groups polyalkylene glycol, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by the Amerchol company; or

[0086] (iii) hydroxypropylguars such as the hydroxypropylguar sold under the product name JAGUAR HP 105 by Rhodia and hydroxypropylguars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by Lamberti, and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by Rhodia

[0087] In some embodiments, the polymer thickener may be a hydrophilic acrylic polymer. In some embodiments, the polymer thickener is selected from the group consisting of acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylates, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vp copolymer, sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vp copolymer and their combinations.

[0088] The total quantity of one or more polymer thickeners will vary. However, in various embodiments, the total quantity of one or more polymer thickeners is from approximately 0.05 to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the total quantity of one or more polymer thickeners is approximately 0.05 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.05 to approximately 2% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 4.5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3.5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 2.5% by weight, or approximately 0.1 to approximately 2% by weight. % by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] Therefore, the amount of one or more polymer thickeners in the composition according to this disclosure can be from about 0.05, 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0, 2.2 to about 2.2, 2.4, 2.6, 2.8, 3.0, 3.1, 3.2, 3.4, 3.6, 3.8, 4.0, 4.2, 4.4, 4.6, 4.8 or 5.0% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty compounds

[0090] In some embodiments, the compositions may include one or more fatty compounds.

[0091] Fatty compounds include, for example, oils. Non-limiting examples of oils include silicone oils, fluorinated oils, hydrocarbon-based oils, etc. In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes oils that are plant-based or vegetable oils. The amount of oil and / or vegetable oil present in the cosmetic composition can be from approximately 0.1 to approximately 30% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 25% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 20% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 0.5 to approximately 30% by weight, from approximately 0.5 to approximately 25% by weight, from approximately 0.5 to approximately 20% by weight, from approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 1% by weight to approximately 30% by weight, from approximately 1% by weight to approximately 25% by weight, from approximately 1% by weight to approximately 20% by weight, from approximately 1% by weight to approximately 15% by weight. weight,from about 1% by weight to about 10% by weight, from about 1.5% by weight to about 30% by weight, from about 1.5% by weight to about 25% by weight, from about 1.5% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 1.5% by weight to about 15% by weight, from about 1.5% by weight to about 10% by weight, from about 2% by weight to about 30% by weight, from about 2% by weight to about 25% by weight, from about 2% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 2% by weight to about 15% by weight, from about 2% by weight to about 10% by weight, from about 3% by weight to about 30% by weight, from about 3% by weight to about 25% by weight, from about 3% by weight to about 20% by weight weight, from approximately 3% by weight to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 3% by weight to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 4% by weight to approximately 30% by weight, from approximately 4% by weight to approximately 25% by weight, from approximately 4% by weight to approximately 20% by weight, from approximately 4% by weight to approximately 15% by weight,from approximately 4% by weight to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 5% by weight to approximately 30% by weight, from approximately 5% by weight to approximately 25% by weight, from approximately 5% by weight to approximately 20% by weight, from approximately 5% by weight to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 5% by weight to approximately 10% by weight, from about 6% by weight to about 30% by weight, from about 6% by weight to about 25% by weight, from about 6% by weight to about 20% by weight, from about 6% by weight to about 15% by weight, or from about 6% by weight to about 10% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] The term "oil" refers to any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Often, at least one of the oils in the cosmetic composition is part of an oil phase. An "oil phase" is a phase comprising at least one oil, which may include additional liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances. An oil suitable for this use may be volatile or non-volatile. The term "volatile oil" refers to an oil that can evaporate upon contact with the skin or a keratin fiber in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil or oils are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10³ to 300 mmHg).The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fiber, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and which in particular has a vapor pressure of less than 10 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0093] The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and, in particular, at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil comprising primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms. A hydrocarbon-based oil may be an animal hydrocarbon-based oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon-based oil, a mineral hydrocarbon-based oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon-based oil. Furthermore, a suitable oil may be a mineral hydrocarbon-based oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon-based oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon-based oil. Silicone oils

[0094] The compositions described herein may comprise one or more silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyltrimethicone, trimethylsilylamodime thicone, and steaoxytrimethylsilane. In some cases, the cosmetic composition includes dimethicone and, optionally, additional oils, including additional silicone oils. Generally, the one or more silicone oils are non-volatile silicone oils. In some embodiments, Silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.

[0095] Other examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 x 10⁶ m² / s) and containing, in particular, 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Volatile silicone oils that may be used in this disclosure include, in particular, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Fluoride oils

[0096] The cosmetic compositions described herein may comprise one or more fluorinated oils. For example, the one or more fluorinated oils may be selected from the group consisting of perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, dodecafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, bromoperfluorooctyl, nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoroethoxyisobutane, and 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine. Volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, and dodecafluoropentane, may also be used. Hydrocarbon-based oils

[0097] The compositions described herein may comprise one or more hydrocarbon-based oils. For example, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be a saturated hydrocarbon, an unsaturated hydrocarbon, lipids, triglycerides, a natural oil, and / or a synthetic oil. In some embodiments, the compositions include a synthetic oil selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecene.

[0098] The hydrocarbon-based oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, such as: i. Oils based on hydrocarbons of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, whose fatty acids can have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, these chains being saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; These oils include, in particular, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, squash seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, and rosehip oil. ii. synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms; iii. linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam and squalane 40; iv. synthetic esters, for example oils of the formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain that is particularly branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' equals 10, for example, Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by Stearinerie Dubois,octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as C12-C13 linear di(alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, as well as C14-C15 linear di(alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; or acetates; , v. fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature containing a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol; vi. higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; vii. carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis; viii. fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® by Ajinomoto; and ix. The essential oils chosen from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, chili berry oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam fir oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedarwood oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemon verbena oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, oil of neroli, orange oil,Patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, bitter orange petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, and ylang-ylang oil.

[0099] In some cases, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be glyceride triesters and in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol.

[0100] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms and, in particular, C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, such as petroleum-derived C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, C8-Ci6 branched esters, and isohexyl neopentanoate.

[0101] Preferably, the oil is chosen from vegetable or plant-based oils, such as coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jatropha oil, mustard oil, camelina oil, pennycress oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil, rapeseed oil, oil of cade, peach kernel oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, and one of their mixtures.

[0102] Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds include: i. hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene; ii. Vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid triglycerides fatty acids, for example sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, bone marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides; iii. oils of formula R9COORi0, in which R9 represents a higher fatty acid residue containing 7 to 19 carbon atoms and Rio represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 20 carbon atoms, such as, for example, Purcellin oil; iv. linear or branched hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as non-volatile liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly (Vaseline), polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as paream; v. synthetic esters and ethers such as isopropyl myristate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; vi. fatty alcohols such as octylidodecanol or oleyl alcohol; vii. partially hydrocarbonated and / or siliconed fluorinated oils; viii. silicone oils such as non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicone) which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethicones and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and mixtures thereof.

[0103] In some cases, one or more fatty compounds may be selected from polyolefins (petrolatum), waxes, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, dimethicone and mixtures thereof.

[0104] Additional fatty compounds that deserve mention include fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, such as those indicated below. Fatty alcohols

[0105] The one or more fatty compounds may be glycerolized and / or oxyalkylated, include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and / or be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols of interest here include those having from approximately 8 to approximately 30 carbon atoms, from approximately 12 to approximately 22 carbon atoms, and from approximately 14 to approximately 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols may be linear- or branched-chain alcohols and may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis-4-t-butylohexanol, myricyl alcohol and any mixture thereof.In some cases, fatty alcohols include at least one of, or may be chosen from, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

[0106] Saturated liquid fatty alcohols may be branched and optionally contain at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring in their structure. However, in some cases, fatty alcohols are acyclic. Non-limiting examples of saturated liquid fatty alcohols include octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and 2-hexyldecanol.

[0107] The liquid unsaturated fatty alcohol may include in its structure at least one double or triple bond. For example, fatty alcohols may include several double bonds (such as 2 or 3 double bonds), which may be conjugated or non-conjugated. Unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched and may be acyclic or include in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. Liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols may include, or be selected from, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, and undecylenyl alcohol.

[0108] Non-limiting examples of solid fatty alcohols include linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture, cetostearyl alcohol. Fatty esters

[0109] The fatty compounds of the skin-firming composition may be liquid or solid fatty esters at 25°C, 1 atm. The fatty esters may include the fatty esters of a C6-C32 fatty acid and / or a C6-C32 fatty alcohol. For example, fatty compounds may include or be selected from fatty acid monoesters and diesters, polyol esters, polyglycerol esters, polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate, polyglycerol dimer isostearate, ethylhexanoate, polyglycerol esters and mixtures thereof. These esters may be esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C25 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 10. In one case, the fatty compounds comprise one or more fatty acid monoesters. For the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.Examples of monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols include ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0110] In some cases, the fatty esters are cetyl esters, such as esters of saturated fatty acids and fatty alcohols. For example, the fatty esters may include or be selected from cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyle myristate, cetyl myristate, stearyl stearate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate and mixtures thereof. In one case, the fatty esters may be one or more of, or selected from, isopropyl isostearate, n-propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, hexyl laurate, hexadecyl isostearate, hexydecyl laurate, hexyldecyl octanoate, n-propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof. In another case, the fatty esters include, or may be selected from, diisobutyl adipate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, di-2-heptylundecyl adipate, monoisostearic acid N-alkyl glycol, isocetyl isostearate,trimethylolpropane triisostearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl octanate, octyldodecyl gum ester, oleyl oleate, octyl oleate, neoptyleate, ethyl dicaptyl dicaptarate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, isocetyl stearate, butyl stearate, diisopropyl sebacate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, cetyl lactate, myristyle lactate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, palmitate 2-hexyldecyl, 2-heptylundecyl palmitate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl myristate, myristyle myristate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, ethyl laurate, laurate, hexyl, diisostearyl malate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof. In yet another case, the skin-firming composition includes or may contain one or more fatty compounds selected from cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, and mixtures thereof.

[0111] Non-limiting examples of solid fatty acid esters and / or fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include solid esters obtained from C9-C26 fatty acids and C9-C25 fatty alcohols. Among these esters, we can mention octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyle stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.

[0112] Non-limiting examples of liquid fatty acids include triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia nut oil, arara nut oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, safflower oil, banco oil, coconut oil, oil of camelina, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil and their mixtures.In one case, the one or more fatty compounds include at least one or are selected from the following: fatty acid triglycerides, oils, mineral oil, alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, alkoxylated fatty acids, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, propylene glycol esters of fatty acids, butylene glycol esters of fatty acids, neopentyl glycol and fatty acid esters, polyglycerol / glycerol esters of fatty acids, glycol diesters, ethylene glycol and fatty acid diesters, fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, short-chain alcohol and fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, hydroxysubstituted fatty acids, waxes, and mixtures thereof. In another case, the fatty compounds in the skin-firming composition include one or more fatty acid triglycerides, such as caprylic / capric triglyceride. Fatty alcohol derivatives

[0113] The compositions may, in some cases, include fatty alcohol derivatives such as alkyl fatty alcohol ethers, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol esters, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives include materials such as methylstearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; the range of ceteth compounds such as ceteth-1 to ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol fractions present; the range of steareth compounds such as steareth-1 to 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of stearic alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol fractions present; ceteareth 1 to ceteareth 10, which are the cetearic alcohol ethylene glycol ethers, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing mainly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol fractions present;The C1-C30 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth, and ceteareth compounds just described; the polyoxyethylene ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol, and isostearyl alcohol; the polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; the PPG ethers such as PPG-9 steareth-3, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG-8 ceteth-1, and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and mixtures thereof. Liquid fatty ethers may be selected from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether. Non-liquid fatty ethers can also be chosen from among the dialkyl ethers, and in particular dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or in mixtures.

[0114] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and Ci-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. In particular, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, triisopropyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate may be used. Fatty acid derivatives

[0115] The compositions may, in some cases, include fatty acid derivatives. Fatty acid derivatives are defined herein to include fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols as defined above, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohol derivatives as defined above when these fatty alcohol derivatives have an esterifiable hydroxyl group, fatty acid esters of alcohols other than fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol derivatives described above, hydroxysubstituted fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives include acid ricinoleic acid, glyceryl monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and mixtures thereof. Surfactants

[0116] The various compositions described herein may include one or more surfactants, including cationic, anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants. Non-limiting examples of surfactants that may be used are provided below.

[0117] Surfactants may be selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made to the document "Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of that reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactant

[0118] In one embodiment, the composition according to this disclosure comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0119] Nonionic surfactants may, in particular, be selected from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylated alcohols, alkyl and polyalkylated ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkylated esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkylated ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkylated glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkylated glucosides or polyglycosides, alkyl and polyalkylated esters of sucrose, in particular sucrose stearate, glyceryl esters, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkylated esters of glycerol, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkylated ethers of glycerol, Gemini surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol,Non-ionic triblock copolymers poly(ethylene glycol)-block-poly(propylene glycol)-block-poly(ethylene glycol), also known as poloxamers, and mixtures thereof.

[0120] Examples of glyceryl esters include Ci6-C22 fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular glyceryl esters of a fatty acid having 18 carbon atoms, and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0121] Glyceryl esters of a C[8] fatty acid that may be mentioned include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate or mixtures thereof.

[0122] Examples of glycerol fatty acid esters include mixtures based on glyceryl stearate, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 OE, and in particular that comprising a 50 / 50 mixture, sold under the name Arlacel 165® by the company Croda, or the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin® by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0123] A composition according to this disclosure comprises at least one surfactant, in particular a non-ionic surfactant, and preferably a surfactant selected from glycerol fatty acid esters, non-ionic triblock copolymers of poly(ethylene glycol)-block-poly(propylene glycol)-block-poly(ethylene glycol), and mixtures thereof.

[0124] Among the non-ionic triblock copolymers poly(ethylene glycol)-block-poly(propylene glycol)-block-poly(ethylene glycol), also called poloxamers, we can mention in particular those sold under the name Pluronic or Kolliphor by BASF or under the name Synperonic by Croda. Anionic surfactant

[0125] Anionic surfactants may be selected from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, C10-C30 metal salts and in particular C16-C25 fatty acids, especially metal stearates and behenates, alkali metal salts of cetyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.

[0126] Examples of alkali metal salts of cetyl phosphate include potassium cetyl phosphate. In particular, the monopotassium salt of monocetyl phosphate (INCI name: potassium cetyl phosphate) sold under the name "Amphisol K" by DSM Nutritional Products may be used. Cationic surfactant

[0127] Cationic surfactants can be selected from alkylimidazolidiniums, such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulfate, ammonium salts such as that the (Ci2-3o-alkyl)-tri(Ci_4-alkyl)ammonium halides such as N,N,N-trimethyl-l-docosanamine chloride (or behentrimonium chloride). Amphoteric surfactant

[0128] The compositions according to this disclosure may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, for example N-acylamino acids such as N-alkyl aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants, for example dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100® by Phoenix Chemical. Silicone surfactant

[0129] The composition may also include at least one silicone surfactant. By way of example, non-ionic surfactants having an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25 °C, used alone or in mixtures, may be mentioned dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone benzoate copolyol, and non-ionic surfactants having an HLB less than 8 at 25 °C, used alone or in mixtures, may be mentioned cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol mixture.

[0130] A composition according to this disclosure comprises less than 2% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), in particular less than 1% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone surfactant(s) and more preferably is free of silicone surfactant(s).

[0131] The surfactant(s) may be present in a composition according to this disclosure in a proportion ranging from approximately 0.05% by weight to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 0.05% by weight to approximately 14% by weight, from approximately 0.05% by weight to approximately 13% by weight, from approximately 0.05% by weight to approximately 12% by weight, from approximately 0.05% by weight to approximately 11% by weight, from approximately 0.05% by weight to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 14% by weight, from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 13% by weight, from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 12% by weight, from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 11% by weight, from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 0.2% by weight to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 0.2% by weight to approximately 14% by weight, from approximately 0.2% by weight to approximately 13% by weight, from approximately 0.2% by weight to approximately 12% by weight, from approximately 0.2% by weight to approximately 11% by weight, from approximately 0,2% by weight to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 14% by weight, from approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 13% by weight, from approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 12% by weight, from approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 11% by weight, from approximately 0.5% by weight to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 1.0% by weight to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 1.0% by weight to approximately , 14% by weight, from approximately 1.0% by weight to approximately 13% by weight, from approximately 1.0% by weight to approximately 12% by weight, from approximately 1.0% by weight to approximately 11% by weight, from approximately 1.0% by weight to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 1.5% by weight to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 1.5% by weight to approximately 14% by weight, from approximately 1.5% by weight to approximately 13% by weight, from approximately 1.5% by weight to approximately 12% by weight, from approximately 1.5% by weight to approximately 11% by weight, from approximately 1.5% by weight to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 2.0% by weight to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 2.0% by weight to approximately 14% by weight, from approximately 2.0% by weight to approximately 13% by weight, from approximately 2.0% by weight to approximately 12% by weight, from approximately 2.0% by weight to approximately 11% by weight, from approximately 2.0% by weight to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 2.5% by weight to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 2.5% by weight to approximately 14% by weight, from approximately 2.5% by weight to approximately 13% by weight, from approximately 2,5% by weight to approximately 12% by weight, from approximately 2.5% by weight to approximately 11% by weight, from approximately 2.5% by weight to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 2.5% by weight to approximately 5% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. Skin-active agents

[0132] Cosmetic compositions may optionally include one or more skin-active agents, such as an anti-aging agent, anti-wrinkle agents, antioxidants, humectants, moisturizing ingredients, depigmenting agents and / or agents for treating oily skin, etc. Skin-active agents may be included in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from more than zero to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of skin-active agents may be from more than zero to about 9% by weight, from more than zero to about 8% by weight, from more than zero to about 7% by weight, from more than zero to about 6% by weight, from more than zero to about 5% by weight, from more than zero to about 4% by weight, from more than zero to about 3% by weight, from more than zero to about 2% by weight;from about 10 ppm to about 10% by weight (100,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 5% by weight (50,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 2.5% by weight (25,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 1% by weight (10,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.5% by weight (5,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.3% by weight (3,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.2% by weight (2,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.1% by weight (1,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to 500 ppm; from about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 2.5% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 1% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 0.5% by weight; from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 2.5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 0.5% by weight; from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about; 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, about 1 to about 3% by weight; about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight, about 2 to about 6% by weight; about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 4% by weight; about 3 to about 10% by weight, about 3 to about 8% by weight; about 3 to about 6% by weight; about 3 to about 5% by weight, about 4 to about 10% by weight, about 4 to about 8% by weight, about 4 to about 6% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0133] A non-exhaustive list of cutaneous active agents which may, in some cases, be included in the cosmetic composition is provided below: Humectants and / or moisturizing ingredients

[0134] Examples of humectants and / or moisturizing ingredients include glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoine and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, acrylic acid homopolymers such as Lipidure-HM from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry, a blend of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils sold by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids, a C-glycoside derivative,in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a 30% by weight solution of active ingredient in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60 / 40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by Chimex under the trade name "Mexoryl SBB", a rosehip oil marketed by Nestlé, a zinc-enriched extract of Porphyridium cruentum microalgae marketed under the name Vincience Algualane Zinc, marine collagen and chondroitin sulfate spheres (Atelocollagen) sold by Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres, hyaluronic acid spheres such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon, and arginine. Depigmenting agents

[0135] Depigmenting agents that may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition include those selected from alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, homogentisic acid, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D-panthetin calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, certain plant-derived compounds such as chamomile, red strawberry, the aloe family (vera, ferox, bardensis), blackberry, skullcap, a kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a Paeonia suffruticosa root extract, such as that sold by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Liquid Botanpi Be, a brown sugar extract (Saccharum officinarum) such as the molasses extract marketed by Taiyo Kaga under the name Liquid Molasses, without this list being exhaustive. Specific depigmentation agents include alpha and beta-arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, panthetin D calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, a kiwi fruit (Actinidiadia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, and a Paeonia suffruticosa root extract, such as that sold by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B. Anti-wrinkle active ingredient

[0136] The cosmetic composition may include one or more anti-wrinkle active ingredients. The term "anti-wrinkle active ingredient" refers to a natural or synthetic compound that produces a biological effect, such as increasing the synthesis and / or activity of certain enzymes, when it comes into contact with an area of ​​wrinkled skin, thereby reducing the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines. Examples of anti-wrinkle active ingredients may be chosen from: desquamating agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or prevent their degradation, agents that stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes, or agents that stimulate keratinocyte differentiation reduction;Muscle relaxants and / or skin relaxants, free radical scavengers and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds include: adenosine and its derivatives and retinoids (such as retinyl palmitate and retinol), ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone;glutathione and its precursors such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives as described in particular in EP-1345919, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane as described in particular in EP-1345919, plant extracts including sea fennel and olive leaf extracts, as well as plants and their hydrolyzed derivatives such as rice protein hydrolysates or soy protein, seaweed extracts and in particular kelp, bacterial extracts, sapogenins such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants, in particular wild yam, including: α-hydroxy acids, γ-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their ; Acyl derivatives, in particular {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethylphenyl)amino]-3-methyl-}acetic acid and lipopeptides marketed by the company under the trade names SEDERMA Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene, manganese salts and magnesium salts, including gluconates, and mixtures thereof. In at least one case, the cosmetic composition includes adenosine derivatives, such as non-phosphate adenosine derivatives, such as in particular 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-adenosine isopropoylidene; toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine, 6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside, and 6-chloropurine riboside.Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as phenylisopropyl adenosine (“PIA”), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxyethyl)phenethyl-amino-5'-N-ethylcarboxamidoadenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamidoadenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and metrifudil. . Active skin agent for oily skin

[0137] The cosmetic composition may optionally include a cutaneous active agent that treats oily skin. These agents may be sebum-regulating or anti-seborrheic agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands. Examples of cutaneous active agents for treating oily skin include: retinoic acid, retinol, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or) chloride, selenium, salicornia - mixtures of cinnamon extract, tea and octanoylglycine such as - Seppic's Sepicontrol A5 TEA - the cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine mixture marketed notably by Seppic under the trade name Sepicontrol A5 - zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate;Copper derivatives, including copper pidolate such as Cuivridone Solabia; plant extracts of Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha pipenta, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis, and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed, for example, by Maruzen; meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) extracts, such as those sold under the name Sebonormine by Silab; extracts of the seaweed Laminaria saccharina, such as those sold under the name Phlorogine by Biotechmarine; extracts of mixed roots of burnet (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis), and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as those sold under the name Sebustop by Solabia; and seed extracts. linen; such as those sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer; Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by Ichimaru Pharcos; extracts of argan oil, Serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto) extract, and sesame seeds such as that sold under the name Regu SEB by Pentapharm; mixtures of willowherb, Terminalia chebula, nasturtium, and bioavailable zinc (microalgae) extracts, such as that sold under the name Seborilys Green Tech; Pygeum afrianum extracts such as that sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by Euromed;

[0138] extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International, and those sold by the company Euromed - extracts of mixtures of plantain, Berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate such as that sold under the name Seboclear Rahn - clove extract such as that sold under the name Clove extract powder by Maruzen - argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques; - lactic acid protein filtrates, such as the one sold under the name Normaseb by Sederma; - kelp extracts, such as the one sold under the name Laminarghane by Biotechmarine; - oligosaccharides from the seaweed Laminaria digitata, such as the one sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by Codif; - sugar cane extracts, such as the one sold under the name Policosanol by Sabinsa; sulfonated shale oil.such as that sold under the name Ichthyol Pale by Ichthyol - meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) extracts such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by Libiol - sebacic acid, notably sold as a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma - glucomannans extracted from konjac tuber and modified with alkylsulfonate chains such as that sold under the name Biopol Beta by Arch Chemical - Sophora angustifolia extracts, such as that sold under the names Sophora powder or Sophora extract by Bioland - Cinchona succirubra bark extracts such as that sold under the name Red Bark HS by Alban Muller - Quillaja saponaria extracts such as that sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller - glycine grafted onto an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by SEPPIC - the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid,such as that sold as a gel under the name AC. Net by Sederma; - phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid; - tri(C12-C13) citrate sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM. ECI by Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM. ECL by Sasol; - hydroxydecanoic acid, including mixtures of hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, and 1,10-decanediol such as those sold under the name Acnacidol BG by Vincience and their mixtures. Antioxidants

[0139] Vitamin C and its derivatives may be used, including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate and the fat-soluble esters tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, glucosamine ascorbate, ascorbyl acetate, etc. In addition, plant extracts containing a high amount of vitamin C, such as camu berry (Myrciaria dubia), acerola, emblica officinalis and bioflavonoids from rosehip and citrus fruits, may also be used, including water-soluble bioflavonoids such as hesperidin methylchalcone.

[0140] Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignans may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly enhance the activity of vitamin E.

[0141] Other antioxidants include tocopherols (e.g., da-tocopherol, d-[3-tocopherol, dy-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (e.g., da-tocotrienol, d-[3-tocotrienol, dy-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol), and vitamin E (α-tocopherol acetate). These compounds can be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means, or mixtures thereof. Vitamin E preparations enriched in tocotrienol can be obtained by fractionating vitamin E preparations to remove some of the tocopherols and recover a preparation with a higher tocotrienol concentration. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated, for example, from wheat germ oil, cereals or palm oil using high-performance liquid chromatography, or isolated by alcohol extraction and / or molecular distillation from barley, distillers' grains or oats.As used here, the term "tocotrienols" includes both tocotrienol-rich fractions obtained from these natural products and pure compounds. Increased glutathione peroxidase activity protects the skin from oxidative damage.

[0142] Furthermore, carotenoids, particularly of the xanthophyll type, are also useful antioxidants that can be utilized. Xanthophyll-type carotenoids include molecules such as lutein, canthaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Xanthophylls protect compounds such as vitamin A, vitamin E, and other carotenoids. Flavonoids

[0143] The active agent may be an antioxidant selected from the flavonoid group. In some cases, the flavonoid is a flavanone (derived from 2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: butin, eriodictyol, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeriodictyol, isosakuranetin, naringenin, naringin, pinocembrin, Poncirin, sakuranetin, sakuranin, and sterubin. The flavonoid may be a flavanonol (derived from 3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavanols include: taxifolin, aromadrin, chrysandroside A, chrysandroside B, xeractinol, astilbin, and fustin. The flavonoid may be a flavone (derived from 2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: apigenin, luteolin, tangeritin, chrysin, baicalein, scutellarein, wogonin, and synthetic flavones: diosmin and flavoxate. The flavonoid may be a flavonol (derived from 3-hydroxy-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, azaleatin, fisetin, galangin, gossypetin, kaempferide, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, natsudaidaine, pachypodol, quercetin, rhamnazine, rhamnetin, azalein, hyperoside, isoquercitin, kaempferitrin, myricitrin, quercitrin, robinin, rutin, spiraeoside, xanthorhamnine, amurensin, icariin and troxerutin.The flavonoid can be a flavan-3-ol (derived from 2-phenyl-3,4-dihydro-2H-chromen-3-ol). Flavan-3-ols include: catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epiafzelechin, fisetinidol, guibourtinidol, mesquitol, and robinetinidol. The flavonoid can also be a flavan-4-ol (derived from 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: apiforol and luteoforol. Finally, the flavonoid can be an isoflavone (derived from 3-phenylchromen-4-one). Isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, biochanin A, formononetin, and the daidzein metabolite Equol. .

[0144] The antioxidant may be an anthocyanidin (derived from the 2-phenylchromenyl cation). Anthocyanidins include: aurantinidin, cyanidin, delphinidin, europinidin, luteolinidin, pelargonidin, malvidin, peonidin, petunidin, rosinidin and xanthone.

[0145] The antioxidant may be a dihydrochalcone (a derivative of 1,3-diphenyl-l-propanone). Dihydrochalcones include: phloretin, dihydrochalcone phloretin phlorizin, aspalathin, naringin dihydrochalcone, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, and nothofagin. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, dihydrochalcones may exert an antioxidant effect by reducing reactive free radicals, such as reactive oxygen and reactive nitrogen species.

[0146] The antioxidant can be an anthocyanin. Anthocyanins and their derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins encompass a class of flavonoid compounds, which are naturally occurring water-soluble compounds responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains, and flowers. In addition, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Inhibition of collagenase contributes to the prevention and reduction of wrinkles, increased skin elasticity, etc., which are caused by a reduction in dermal collagen. Anthocyanins can be obtained from any portion of various plant sources, such as the fruit, flower, stem, leaves, root, and bark. or the seeds. A specialist in the field will understand that certain parts of the plant may contain naturally higher levels of anthocyanins, and that, therefore, these parts are used to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some cases, the antioxidants may include one or more betacyanins. Betacyanins, like anthocyanins, can come from natural sources and are antioxidants.

[0147] The antioxidant may be a phenylpropanoid (cinnamic acid derivative). Phenylpropanoids include: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its antioxidant pharmacopoeia 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone), 5-hydroxyferic acid, sinapic acid, coumaryl alcohol, coniferyl alcohol, sinapyl alcohol, eugenol, chavicol, safrole, p-coumaric acid, and sinapinic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, phenylpropanoids may neutralize free radicals.

[0148] The antioxidant may be a chalcone (derived from 1,3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one). Chalcones include: butein, okanin, carthamine, marein, sophoradine, xanthohumol, flavokawain A, flavokawain B, flavokawain C and synthetic safalcone.

[0149] The antioxidant may be a curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, desmethoxycurcumin, bis-desmethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin, and tetrahydrocurcuminoids. Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids may be derived from the rhizomes of Curcuma longa. Tetrahydrocurcumin, a metabolite of curcumin, has been shown to be a more potent and stable antioxidant than curcumin.

[0150] The antioxidant may be a tannin. Tannins include: tannin, terflavin B, glucogallin, D-gallic acid and quercitannic acid.

[0151] The antioxidant may be a stilbenoid. Stilbenoids include: resveratrol, pterostilbene and piceatannol. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4'-trihydroxystilbene, 3,4,3',5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (piceatannol), 2,3',4,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (oxyresveratrol), 4,4'-dihydroxystilbene, and their alpha- and beta-glucoside, galactoside and mannoside derivatives.

[0152] The antioxidant may be a coumarin (2H-chromen-2-one derivatives). Coumarins include: 4-Hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, esculetin, hemiarin, auraptene, and dicoumarol.

[0153] The antioxidant may be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include: beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein, and idebenone. Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignans may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly enhance the activity of vitamin E.

[0154] The antioxidant may be: a xanthone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2,6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2,4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, alpha-lipoic acid, ellagic acid, chicoric acid, chlorogic acid, rosmarinic acid, salicylic acid, acetylcysteine, s-allyl cysteine, barbigerone, chebulagic acid, edaravone, ethyloxyquin, glutathione, hydroxytyrsol, idebenone, melatonin, N-acetylserotonin, nordihydroguaaretic acid, olecanthal, oleuropein, paradol, piceatannol, probucol, propyl gallate, protocatechuic acid, pyritinol, rutin, secoisolariciresinol diglucoside, sesamin, silibinin, silymarin, theflavin, theaflavin digallate, thymoquinone, trolox, tyrosol, polyunsaturated fatty acids and sulfur-based antioxidants such as methionine or lipoic acid. C-glycoside(s)

[0155] Cosmetic compositions may include a C-glycoside, for example, as a cutaneous active ingredient. For example, a C-glycoside in an amount of about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the amount of C-glycoside present in the cosmetic composition can be from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 9% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 7% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 9% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 7% by weight, from about 1 to about 6% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 4% by weight;from about 2 to about 10% by weight, from about 2 to about 9% by weight, from about 2 to about 8% by weight, from about 2 to about 7% by weight, from about 2 to about 6% by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight, from about 2 to about 4% by weight; from about 3 to about 10% by weight, from about 3 to about 9% by weight, from about 3 to about 8% by weight, from about 3 to about 7% by weight, from about 3 to about 6% by weight, from about 3 to about 5% by weight, or from about 3 to about 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0156] The cosmetic composition may include one or more C-glycoside(s) having a structure according to the general formula (I):

[0157] in which:

[0158] - R represents a saturated alkyl radical in the Ci-Cio, in particular in the Ci-C4, which can be optionally substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a saturated CrC4 alkyl radical,

[0159] - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar motifs, in particular up to 6 sugar motifs, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, knowing that said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and

[0160] - X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,

[0161] wherein the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which may be α or [3, and also their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their optical and geometric isomers.

[0162] The C-glycosides of formula (I) preferably have a structure in which R denotes a linear alkyl radical saturated at Ci-C6, in particular at C1-C4, preferably at CrC2, and more preferably a methyl radical. The following alkyl groups for C-glycosides (such as R) may be cited in particular: methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, and cyclohexyl.

[0163] According to at least one embodiment, a C-glycoside compound corresponding to formula (I) can be used, where S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar motifs, such as in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of chimeric range L and / or D. The mono- or polysaccharide has at least one free hydroxyl functional group and / or optionally one or more protected amine functional groups, where X and R otherwise retain all the definitions given above.

[0164] Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention may be selected from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously designates D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, L-fucose and a mixture thereof. In one case, the monosaccharide is D-xylose.

[0165] More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar units can be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which The oligosaccharide can advantageously be chosen from xylobiose, methyl-β-xylobiose, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose, xylohexaose, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the oligosaccharide is xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond. More specifically, S can represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose, D-maltose, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the monosaccharide is D-xylose.

[0166] Preferably, the C-glycoside may be a derivative of formula (I) for which:

[0167] - R denotes an alkyl radical in the Ci-C4 form, in particular in the linear unsubstituted Ci-C2 form, including a methyl radical;

[0168] - S represents a monosaccharide as described above and chosen in particular among D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; and

[0169] - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and, of preferably a -CH(OH)- group.

[0170] The compounds described herein may be in the form of a salt. Acceptable salts of the compounds described in this disclosure include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of inorganic acids such as sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid. Examples also include salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. Examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.

[0171] When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2, or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine. For example, the compound of formula (I) can be neutralized with triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may include, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups. Examples include 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol, and 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Other examples include lysine and 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine.

[0172] Non-limiting examples of solvates that may be used in cosmetic formulations include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol. Of course, according to the disclosure, a C-glycoside derivative corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or mixed with other C-glycoside derivatives and in any proportion.

[0173] A C-glycoside derivative suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis process described in document WO 02 / 051828.

[0174] Non-limiting examples of C-glycoside compounds that may be suitable for cosmetic formulation include:

[0175] - CbD-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0176] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0177] - C-b-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0178] - C-a- D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0179] - l-(C-b-D-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0180] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0181] - l-(C-b-L-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0182] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0183] - l-(C-b-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0184] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0185] - l-(C-b-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0186] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0187] - l-(C-b-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0188] - l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0189] - l-(C-b-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0190] - l-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0191] - l-(CbD-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0192] - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0193] - l-(CbL-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0194] - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0195] - CbD-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0196] - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0197] - CbD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0198] - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and / or mixtures thereof.

[0199] The cosmetic composition may preferably include a C-glycoside selected from CbD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the C-glycoside is CbD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane. According to at least one embodiment, the C-glycoside compound may be CbD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol), which may be supplied as a solution containing 30% by weight of the active ingredient. Water-soluble solvents

[0200] In various embodiments, the composition may include one or more water-soluble solvents. In some embodiments, the one or more water-soluble solvents are chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, C2-C5 mono-alcohols, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0201] The expression "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with the expression "water-miscible solvent" and means a compound that is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and that has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C10, C5, C10, or C14 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols (e.g., butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), and mixtures thereof.

[0202] In some cases, the water-soluble solvent is a monoalcohol. Non-limiting examples of monoalcohols include ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cycohexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl-2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol), and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the monoalcohols include or are selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, one of their isomers, or a combination thereof. In other cases, one or more of the monoalcohols include or consist of ethanol.

[0203] Examples of organic solvents include, but are not limited to, monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl-, monoethyl-, and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. Water-soluble solvents may be organic solvents, which may be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

[0204] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanediols such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as monomethyl ethylene glycol ether, monoethyl ethylene glycol ether, monobutyl ethylene glycol ether, monomethyl ethylene glycol ether acetate, monomethyl diethylene glycol ether, monoethyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl diethylene glycol ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, monomethyl propylene glycol ether, monoethyl propylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl propylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl propylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl propylene glycol ether, monomethyl dipropylene glycol ether, monoethyl dipropylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl dipropylene glycol ether, and mono-isopropyl dipropylene glycol ether ;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane and mixtures thereof.

[0205] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. The term "polyol" should be understood, for the purposes of this disclosure, as meaning an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. The polyols in the cosmetic composition may be glycols or compounds with many hydroxyl groups. In some cases, one or more polyols are selected from the group consisting of C2-C32 polyols. One or more polyols may be liquid at room temperature (25 °C). One or more polyols may have 2 to 32 carbon atoms, 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or 3 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0206] Non-limiting examples of polyols which may optionally be included in the cosmetic composition include and / or may be selected from among alkanediols such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol;glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether; propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, sorbitol, sorbitan, triacetin, and mixtures thereof. The one or more polyols may optionally be glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.

[0207] In some cases, the polyol comprises glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and any mixture thereof.

[0208] The total amount of water-soluble solvents may vary, but it is generally about 0.1 to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of water-soluble solvents may be from approximately 0.1 to approximately 25% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 20% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, from approximately 0.1 to approximately 6% by weight, from approximately 0.5 to approximately 25% by weight, from approximately 0.5 to approximately 20% by weight, from approximately 0.5 to approximately 15% by weight, from approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, from approximately 0.5 to approximately 6% by weight, from approximately 1 to approximately 25% by weight, from approximately 1 to approximately 20% by weight, from approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, or from about 1 to about 6% by weight, from about 1.5 to about 25% by weight, from about 1,5 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1.5 to approximately 8% by weight or approximately 1.5 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 25% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, or approximately 2 to approximately 6% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 25% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 20%, from about 2.5 to about 15%, from about 2.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 2.5 to about 8% by weight, or from about 2.5 to about 6% by weight, from about 3 to about 25% by weight, from about 3 to about 20% by weight, from about 3 to about 15% by weight, from about 3 to about 10% by weight, from about 3 to about 8% by weight, or from about 3 to about 6% by weight, from about 3.5 to about 25% by weight, from about 3.5 to about 20% by weight, from about 3.5 to about 15% by weight. %, from approximately 3.5 to approximately 10% by weight, from approximately 3.5 to approximately 8% by weight, or from approximately 3.5 to approximately 6% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. In addition or as an alternative, the total quantity of water-soluble solvents may be from 0.1 to 25% by weight, 0.1 to 20% by weight, 0.1 to 15% by weight, 0.1 to 10% by weight, 0.1 to 8% by weight, 0.1 to 6% by weight,from 0.5 to 25% by weight, 0.5 to 20% by weight, 0.5 to 15% by weight, 0.5 to 10% by weight, 0.5 to 8% by weight, 0.5 to 6% by weight, from 1 to 25% by weight, from 1 to 20% by weight, from 1 to 15% by weight, from 1 to 10% by weight, from 1 to 8% by weight, or from 1 to 6% by weight, from 1.5 to 25% by weight, from 1.5 to 20% by weight, from 1.5 to 15% by weight, from 1.5 to 10% by weight, from 1.5 to 8% by weight, or from 1.5 to 6% by weight, from 2 to 25% by weight, from 2 to 20% by weight, from 2 to 15% by weight, from 2 to 10% by weight, from 2 to 8% by weight, or from 2 to 6% by weight, from 2.5 to 25% by weight, from 2.5 to 20% by weight, from 2.5 to 15% by weight, from 2.5 to 10% by weight, from 2.5 to 8% by weight, or from 2.5 to 6% by weight, from 3 to 25% by weight, from 3 to 20% by weight, from 3 to 15% by weight, from 3 to 10% by weight, from 3 to 8% by weight, or from 3 to 6% by weight, from 3.5 to 25% by weight, from 3.5 to 20% by weight, from 3.5 to 15% by weight, from 3.5 to 10% by weight, from 3.5 to 8% by weight or from 3.5 to 6 % by weightincluding intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] This disclosure also relates to processes for using the compositions described herein. For example, the compositions may be used in a process that includes applying the cosmetic compositions to human skin. In some cases, the composition is applied to the face.

[0210] It must be understood that both the preceding general description and the detailed description that follows are provided by way of example and explanation only, and do not limit the invention. EXAMPLES

[0211] Since various modifications could be made to the processes described above without departing from the scope of this disclosure, it is intended that the entire subject matter contained in the description above and in the examples given below shall be construed as illustrative and not limiting. Quantities The percentages of ingredients in the compositions / formulas described below are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1

[0212] Since various modifications could be made to the processes described above without departing from the scope of this disclosure, it is intended that the entire subject matter contained in the above description and in the examples given below shall be construed as illustrative and not limiting.

[0213] The following examples are provided for explanatory purposes only and are not intended to be limiting. The quantities of ingredients in the compositions / formulas described below are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0214] The basic formula, inventive compositions and comparative compositions were prepared as described below. Preparation of compositions

[0215] Water-soluble solvents and water were stirred in a suitably sized container and heated to 75 °C. Fatty compounds, surfactants, emollients, and any oil-soluble active ingredients were combined and heated in a secondary container to 75 °C until all components melted completely. The oil phase was then added to the aqueous phase at 75 °C with stirring and homogenization for 15 minutes. After this time, the container was cooled to room temperature with continuous stirring and homogenization. Below 40 °C, thickeners and polymer fillers were added. Stirring and homogenization continued until the polymers were well dispersed. The pH was then adjusted, and the remaining raw materials were added. Once homogeneous, the mixture was complete and removed from the tank at 20 °C.

[0216] [Table 1] Table 1 Basic formula Example of the invention Ex. c omp . 1 Ex. c omp . 2 Ex. c omp . 3 INCI US a Emollient LAURYL LAURATE (LAURYL LAURATE) 0 0.70 0 1.00 0 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SH EA) BUTTER (BU TYROSPERMUM PARKII (SH EA) BUTTER) 0 0 0 0 0.7 b Thickener in oil phase used C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE (POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE) 1 0 0.30 1.00 0 0.30 Polymer thickener CARBOMER (CARBOMER) 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 CROSSPOLYMER OF ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE (ACRYLATE / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER) 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Surfactant ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08 ALCOHOL BEHENYL ALCOHOL 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.28 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 PEG-100 STEARATE 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Fatty compound SQUALANE; ISOPROPYL L AUROYL SARCOSINATE; PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAYL SOSTEARATE;CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 CELLULOSE 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Active ingredient SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 NIACINAMIDE 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 Soluble solvent BUTYLE GLYCOL 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 PENTYLENEGLYCOL 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00; in water GLYCERIN 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 Solvent WATER 73.32 72.32 72.32 2 72.32 72.32 2 Miscellaneous additional ingredients such as preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, chelators, etc. 2 less than 10 less than 10 less than 10 less than 10 less than 10

[0217] 'intelimer® IPA13-1 / Evonik

[0218] 2 For example, phenoxyethanol (preservative); sodium hydroxide (corrector of pH); trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (chelator). Example 2

[0219] (Adherence) Protocol for the sensory study

[0220] 50 pL of a blinded test sample were deposited on the back of the hand of the test subject. Using two fingers in a controlled movement, the sample was spread in a circular motion, with the test subject performing the circular motion 20 times. The sensory quality of the test sample was assessed on the back of the hand 1) during application, 2) immediately after application, and 3) two minutes after application. Subjects were asked to rate three overall attributes on a scale of 1 to 5.

[0221] The compositions shown in Example 1 were tested. The test criteria and evaluations are reported in Table 2 below. The basic formula was a cream-gel formulated and known to exhibit adhesion (Table 1, basic formula). The adhesion was primarily due to the 8% glycerin and 5% niacinamide.

[0222] The results are presented in the table below.

[0223] [Table 2] Table 2: Sensory Results Test Concentration Action Time Appearance Greasy Tackiness Sensation Base Formula Base formula SO4 2 4 adherent Ex. inv. Alkyl polyacrylate 0.3%, 0.7% 4 1 1 soft C10-30, lauryl laurate Ex. comp. 1 C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate 1% 4 2 2 waxy, pellicular Ex. comp. 2 1-Auryl laurate alone 1% 4 2.5 3.5 sec Ex. comp. 3 C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, shea butter 0.3%, 0.7% 4 4 2 greasy 1 = volatile, rapid absorption, short friction 1 = no greasy appearance 1 = no adhesion, clean 5 = persistent, slippery, long friction 5 = oily / greasy 5 = high adhesion, sticky

[0224] Sensory results demonstrated that the combination of lauryl laurate and C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate in a gel-cream base exhibited the lowest amount of stickiness with the best sensory attributes. When the formula contained only C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate (i.e., Ex. comp. 1), the formula had an overall waxy, cutaneous feel and was slightly sticky. When the formula contained only lauryl laurate (i.e., Ex. comp. 2), the formula had an overall dry finish and was sticky and tacky. When the formula contained C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate combined with an emollient comparable to lauryl laurate (i.e. Ex. comp. 3; shea butter melts above room temperature, but close to skin temperature (maximum melting at 26°C, end of melting at 34°C).If melting temperatures dictated / predicted sensory characteristics, then formulas comparing shea butter and lauryl laurate would be very similar. but this is not the case), the formula had an overall final feel of greasy texture and was a little sticky.

[0225] The preceding description illustrates and describes this disclosure. The disclosure presents and describes only the preferred embodiments, but it should be understood that the invention can be used in various other combinations, modifications, and environments, and that it may undergo changes or modifications in the scope of the inventive concepts as expressed herein, in accordance with the teachings above and / or the skills or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described herein are further intended to explain the best known means to the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to use the disclosure in such or other embodiments, and with the various modifications required by particular applications or uses thereof. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. DEFINITIONS

[0226] As used herein, the terms "comprising," "having," and "including" (or "comprise," "having," and "include") are used in their broad, non-limiting sense. The expression "consisting essentially of" restricts the scope of a claim to the specified materials or steps and to those that do not materially affect the basic and innovative features of the claimed invention.

[0227] Thus, the phrase "one of their mixtures" (or "one of their combinations") is interchangeable with the phrase "their mixtures" (or "their combinations"). Throughout the disclosure, if the phrase "one of their mixtures" is used, following a list of items as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the items: "one or more items selected from A, B, C, D, E, F, or mixtures thereof." The phrase "one of their mixtures" does not require that the mixture include all of the items A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of the items A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the formulation "one or more elements chosen from A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E and F".

[0228] Similarly, the expression "one of its (their) salts" also refers to "its (their) salts." Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an item selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, one of their salts, or mixtures thereof," it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.

[0229] The salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. The appropriate counterions for the components described herein are known in art.

[0230] The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0231] The term “plurality” means “more than one” or “two or more”.

[0232] An "alkyl radical" is a linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon-based group, particularly in C1-C8, more particularly in C1-C6, preferably in C1-C4 such as methyl, ethyl, isopropyl and tert-butyl.

[0233] An "alkoxy radical" is an alkyl-oxy in which the alkyl is as described above.

[0234] An "alkenyl radical" is a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group unsaturated, especially in C2-C8, more particularly in C2-C6, preferably in C2-C4 such as ethylenyl, propylenyl.

[0235] An alkylene radical* is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon-based group, in particular C1-C6, preferably C1-C4, such as methylene, ethylene or propylene.

[0236] Some of the various component categories identified for cosmetic compositions may overlap. In cases where an overlap may exist and the composition / product includes two (or more than two) overlapping components, an overlapping component does not represent more than one component. For example, tocopherol may be considered both a "vitamin" and a "preservative." If a particular composition / product includes both a vitamin and a preservative, the tocopherol may serve only as a vitamin or only as a preservative (tocopherol does not serve simultaneously as a vitamin and a preservative, even though it functionally provides more than one effect).

[0237] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise stated.

[0238] All ranges and values ​​disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value for deducing a subrange, and so on. Furthermore, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of intermediate subranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes the points 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.; and the points 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 include ranges and subranges of 1-5, 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.

[0239] Apart from the examples of operation, or unless otherwise stated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions may be modified by the term "approximately", whether expressly stated or not.

[0240] Furthermore, all numbers are intended to represent exact values ​​as additional embodiments, whether or not modified by the term "approximately". For example, "a quantity of approximately 1%" can be modified to mean exactly 1%. As an example, "a quantity of 1%" can be modified to mean "approximately 1%". Unless otherwise specified, the term "approximately" is understood to encompass a range of + / - 5% with respect to the stated number. However, in some embodiments, the term can be defined to encompass narrower ranges, for example, + / - 1%, 2%, 3%, or 4% with respect to the stated number.

[0241] Various components may be included in the form of salts, even if they are not explicitly stated. In other words, whenever a compound has the capacity to exist in the form of a salt, it is intended that salts will also be encompassed to the extent that such salts exist, even if the specification cannot specifically refer to a salt (or cannot refer to a salt in all instances throughout the disclosure), for example, by using a formulation such as "one of its (their) salts" or "its (their) salts." Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts. However, additional cations such as ammonium ions, or alkanoammonium ions such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, can also form salts.

[0242] The expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that the specific material may be present in small quantities that do not materially affect the basic and innovative features of the claimed invention. For example, less than 2% by weight of a specific material may be added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the composition (provided that an amount less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the basic and innovative features of the claimed invention). Similarly, a composition "substantially free" or "essentially free" of a stated material may include less than 1.5% by weight, less than 1% by weight, less than 0.5% by weight, less than 0.1% by weight, less than 0.05% by weight, or less than 0.01% by weight, or no amount of the specified material.The expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used here can also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition, but that it may still be present in a raw material included in the composition.

[0243] Furthermore, all components positively presented in this disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims; for example, a claimed composition may be "free," "substantially free" (or "substantially free") of one or more components that are positively presented in this disclosure. By way of example, silicones may optionally be included in cosmetic compositions, but in some cases, the compositions may be free or substantially free of silicones. Silicones are synthetic polymers consisting of repeating units of elemental siloxane, silicon, and oxygen, combined with other elements, most often carbon and hydrogen. Silicones are therefore also called polysiloxanes.In some cases, the cosmetic compositions in this case may be free or essentially free of dimethicones, amodimethicones, dimethiconols, cyclosiloxanes, siloxanes, etc.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: (a) about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of lauryl laurate; (b) at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain; wherein all percentages by weight are based on a total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is selected from homopolymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates and from copolymers obtained by copolymerization of a monomer selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is / are selected from polystearyl acrylate, polybehenyl acrylate, behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, and any mixture thereof.

4. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is / are selected from the group consisting of Cl0-30 alkyl polyacrylate, C12-22 alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the content of semi-crystalline polymer(s) containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain is present from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight relative to a total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more polymer thickeners, wherein the one or more polymer thickeners are present from about 0.05 to about 5% by weight relative to a total weight of the composition.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more fatty compounds, wherein the one or more fatty compounds are present from about 0.1 to about 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more surfactants, wherein the one or more surfactants are present from about 0.05 to about 15% by weight relative to a total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more cutaneous active agents, wherein the total amount of cutaneous active agents is at least about 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A skin treatment method comprising applying to the skin the composition according to claim 1.