FACIAL CLEANSING PROCESS
A facial cleansing process using polysaccharides forms aggregates to efficiently remove dirt and makeup, addressing environmental concerns and enhancing skin renewal with a comfortable experience.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024008685
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-08-06
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-13
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-08-06
AI Technical Summary
Existing facial cleansing products struggle to effectively remove dirt and makeup while being environmentally friendly, and there is a need for a process that uses sustainable ingredients and minimizes environmental impact.
A facial cleansing process using a composition comprising polysaccharides, applied in specific amounts and steps, which forms aggregates during massage to exfoliate the skin, thereby removing dirt and makeup efficiently.
The process achieves effective cleansing with minimal friction, promotes skin renewal, and uses environmentally friendly ingredients, providing a comfortable and fresh feel.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: FACIAL CLEANSING PROCESS technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a process for cleaning a face using a composition comprising at least one polysaccharide. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Cleansing the skin is very important for facial care. It must be as effective as possible because oily residues, such as excess sebum, remnants of cosmetic products used daily and makeup products, especially water-resistant products, accumulate in skin folds such as wrinkles and clog skin pores, which can lead to the appearance of spots.
[0003] Thus, in the field of cosmetics, cleansing products are widely used to clean keratinous material such as skin, in particular to remove makeup from keratinous material.
[0004] Some cleaning products include small particles called "exfoliants". Exfoliants can help to physically remove dirt or makeup from a keratinous material such as skin.
[0005] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.
[0006] It is, therefore, essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.
[0007] In this context, it is important to develop a new cosmetic process using cosmetic compositions, such as cleansing compositions, with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin.
[0008] It is always necessary to develop a new cleaning process capable of offering good cleaning efficiency. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0009] An objective of the present invention is to provide a facial cleansing process that can offer good cleansing efficiency.
[0010] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a facial cleansing process, comprising the steps of:
[0011] (1) supply 5 g or less, preferably 4 g or less, and more preferably 3 g or less, of a composition comprising (a) at least one polysaccharide;
[0012] (2) apply the composition to the face;
[0013] (3) optionally apply the composition to the eyelashes of the face;
[0014] (4) optionally leave the composition on the face, preferably for 3 seconds or more, more preferably 4 seconds or more, and even more preferably 5 seconds or more;
[0015] (5) massage the face with circular movements; and
[0016] (6) eliminate the face composition.
[0017] The quantity of the composition provided for in step (1) may be 0.5 g or more, preferably 1.0 g or more, and more preferably 1.5 g or more.
[0018] In step (1), it is preferable that the composition be taken from a container containing the composition with a hand, more preferably a dry hand.
[0019] In step (2), it is preferable that the face be dry.
[0020] In step (2), it is preferable that the composition be deposited on, at least, the front, the cheeks, nose and chin of the face. It is preferable that the composition be spread on the face.
[0021] In step (2) or (3), it is preferable that the composition be applied with at least one finger or at least one applicator.
[0022] In step (5), it is preferable that the face be massaged with the hands, preferably the fingertips and / or the palm of the hands, and more preferably the palm of the hands, and even more preferably the dry palm of the hands.
[0023] At step (5), it is preferable that the circular movements be capable of forming aggregates derived from the (a) polysaccharide in the composition.
[0024] Before step (6), steps (1) to (5) may be repeated.
[0025] At step (6), the above composition can be removed with the hand(s), finger(s), or at least paper towel such as a tissue and napkin, or with water.
[0026] It is preferable that the (a) polysaccharide be chosen from polysaccharides derived from microorganisms and / or plants, preferably from the group consisting of cardollan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, agar, tamarind gum, glucomannan and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, agar, tamarind gum, glucomannan and mixtures thereof.
[0027] The above composition may further include:
[0028] (b) at least one oil; and
[0029] (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids and their mixtures.
[0030] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the above composition may be 5% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more and, more preferably 15% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] Glycolipids can be chosen from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, and their mixtures, and, more preferably, from rhamnolipids. Brief description of the drawings
[0032] [Fig-1] Fig.1 shows an example of the process according to the present invention. Best embodiment of the invention
[0033] After extensive research, the inventors discovered a new facial cleansing process that can offer good cleansing efficiency.
[0034] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a facial cleansing process, comprising the steps of:
[0035] (1) supply 5 g or less, preferably 4 g or less, and more preferably 3 g or less, of a composition comprising (a) at least one polysaccharide;
[0036] (2) apply the composition to the face;
[0037] (3) optionally apply the composition to the eyelashes of the face;
[0038] (4) optionally leave the composition on the face, preferably for 3 seconds or more, more preferably 4 seconds or more, and even more preferably 5 seconds or more;
[0039] (5) massage the face with circular movements; and
[0040] (6) eliminate the face composition.
[0041] The process according to the present invention can generate aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli. These aggregates are derived from (a) the polysaccharide present in the composition applied to the face and are generated by facial massage.
[0042] The aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, may also be generated by rubbing the composition comprising (a) the polysaccharide on the face.
[0043] The aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, generated by the process according to the present invention, can function as "exfoliating" particles. Thus, they can contribute to exfoliating the superficial layer of a face, such as the surface of the stratum corneum. Consequently, the aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, can contribute to effectively removing dirt or makeup from a face. Therefore, the process according to the present invention is suitable for facial cleansing.
[0044] The aggregates, formed by the process according to the present invention, and which may be in the form of vermicelli, can be generated within a reasonable time, that is to say, a period of time that is not too long. Consequently, the process according to the present invention can offer good cleaning efficiency.
[0045] Furthermore, the process according to the present invention can form the aggregates, which can be in the form of vermicelli, relatively quickly without excessively massaging the facial skin. Consequently, the process according to the present invention can produce less friction, which is preferable for facial skin.
[0046] Furthermore, the aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, can contribute to accelerating the renewal of the superficial layer of the face, such as the surface of the stratum corneum. Consequently, the process according to the present invention can also provide a feeling of freshness.
[0047] Furthermore, the aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, generated by the process according to the present invention may be soft. Consequently, the process according to the present invention may also offer a comfortable feel during use.
[0048] The aggregates, which can be in the form of vermicelli, can be formed from (a) polysaccharide, which can be derived from natural resources. Thus, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention is environmentally friendly.
[0049] The composition according to the present invention and similar will be explained in more detail below. [Process]
[0050] The process according to the present invention, for cleaning a face, comprises the steps of:
[0051] (1) supply 5 g or less, preferably 4 g or less, and more preferably 3 g or less, of a composition comprising (a) at least one polysaccharide;
[0052] (2) apply the composition to the face;
[0053] (3) optionally apply the composition to the eyelashes of the face;
[0054] (4) optionally leave the composition on the face, preferably for 3 seconds or more, more preferably 4 seconds or more, and even more preferably 5 seconds or more;
[0055] (5) massage the face with circular movements; and
[0056] (6) eliminate the face composition.
[0057] The process according to the present invention can be a cosmetic process for a face.
[0058] The cosmetic process according to the present invention can be characterized by a combination of the use of an appropriate amount of a specific composition and an appropriate protocol defined by specific steps.
[0059] Each step included in the cosmetic process according to the present invention will be described below. (Step 1)
[0060] Step (1) of the process according to the present invention provides a composition comprising (a) at least one polysaccharide in an amount of 5 g or less, preferably 4 g or less, and more preferably 3 g or less.
[0061] It may be preferable for the quantity of the composition to be 0.5 g or more, more preferably 1.0 g or more, and even more preferably 1.5 g or more.
[0062] Thus, the quantity of the composition provided for in step (1) can range from 0.5 g to 5 g, preferably from 1.0 g to 4 g, and more preferably from 1.5 g to 3 g.
[0063] Preferably, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention is taken from a container containing the composition with a hand, more preferably a dry hand, i.e. that the hand is not wet.
[0064] More preferably, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention is taken from a container by at least one finger, more preferably at least one dry finger, that is to say that the finger is not wet.
[0065] It is preferable that the composition be taken with a dry hand, i.e., the hand is not wet. A dry hand is preferable for quickly generating aggregates, which can be in the form of vermicelli, in step (5), from the composition.
[0066] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is removed from a container including the composition with at least one finger to place it on the back or palm of a hand.
[0067] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is placed on the back or palm of a hand, preferably a dry hand, i.e. that the back or palm of the hand is not wet. (Step 2)
[0068] Step (2) of the process according to the present invention applies the composition provided by step (1) onto a face.
[0069] It is preferable that the composition be applied to a dry face, i.e., that the face not be wet. A dry face is preferable for the rapid generation of aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, in step (5), from the composition.
[0070] It is also preferable that the composition be applied to, at least, the forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin of the face. It is more preferable to spread the composition from the center to the periphery of the face.
[0071] In a preferred embodiment, a user takes a portion of the composition deposited on the back or palm of a hand, places it on, at least, the forehead, cheeks, nose and chin of the user's face, and spreads the composition over the face.
[0072] In another preferred embodiment, a user takes a portion of the composition provided in a container, places it on, at least, the forehead, cheeks, nose and chin of the user's face, and spreads the composition on the face.
[0073] By placing the composition on the forehead, cheeks, nose and chin of the face, the composition can be spread more evenly on the face.
[0074] In step (2), the composition can be applied and / or spread on the face with at least one finger or at least one applicator. If necessary, the palms of the hands can also be used. Any tool for applying or spreading the composition can be used as an applicator.
[0075] Preferably, the composition is applied and / or spread on the face with at least one finger, more preferably with at least one dry finger, i.e. that the finger is not wet.
[0076] It is preferable in step (2) to form a thin film of the composition that can be easily dried. The formation of a dry, thin film of the composition is preferable for rapidly generating aggregates on the face, which may be in the form of vermicelli, in step (5). (Step 3)
[0077] Step (3) of the process according to the present invention is an optional step to apply the composition provided by step (1) to the eyelashes of a face.
[0078] In step (3), the composition can be applied to the eyelashes with at least one finger or at least one applicator. Any tool, such as a brush, for applying or spreading the composition can be used as an applicator.
[0079] If necessary, step (3) may be carried out before step (2). (Step 4)
[0080] Step (4) of the process according to the present invention is an optional step consisting of leaving the composition applied by step (2), with or without step (3), on the face.
[0081] The application time of the composition on the face is not limited. Preferably, the application time of the composition on the face should be 3 seconds or more, more preferably 4 seconds or more, and even more preferably 5 seconds or more. The application time of the composition on the face may be 60 minutes or less, preferably 30 minutes or less, and more preferably 15 minutes or less.
[0082] Thanks to step (4), the composition on the face can be dried. Drying the composition is preferable to quickly generate aggregates on the face, which can be in the form of vermicelli, in step (5). (Step 5)
[0083] In step (5) of the process according to the present invention, the face on which the composition was applied during step (2) is massaged with circular movements.
[0084] Circular movements are suitable for forming aggregates derived from (a) polysaccharide present in the composition to be used for the process according to the invention.
[0085] In other words, by circular movements, the composition on the face can be rubbed to generate aggregates which may be in the form of vermicelli.
[0086] The aggregates, which may be in the form of vermicelli, can be used to remove dirt or makeup from the face.
[0087] Circular movements can be formed by any means, such as fingers. However, in step (5), it is preferable that the circular movements be performed by the hands, more preferably the fingertips and / or the palms, even more preferably the palms, and in particular the palms of dry hands. Aggregates, which can be in the form of vermicelli, can be generated earlier using dry hands rather than wet hands.
[0088] The time spent massaging the face in step (5) is not limited. Preferably, the time spent massaging the face in step (5) should be 3 seconds or more, more preferably 4 seconds or more, and even more preferably 5 seconds or more. The time spent massaging the face in step (5) may be 45 minutes or less, preferably 30 seconds or less, and more preferably 15 seconds or less.
[0089] If appropriate, the face may be massaged, in step (5), with an interval of at least 3 seconds or more, preferably 4 seconds or more, and more preferably 5 seconds or more. The interval may be 30 seconds or less, preferably 20 seconds or less, and more preferably 10 seconds or less.
[0090] Steps (1) to (5) may be repeated if necessary.
[0091] For example, if a user wishes to use a higher quantity of the composition to be used for the process according to the invention and generate aggregates that can be in the form of vermicelli as soon as possible, steps (1) to (5) can be repeated, rather than using the composition in a quantity greater than 5 g. (Step 6)
[0092] In step (6) of the process according to the present invention, the composition is removed from the face which was massaged in step (5).
[0093] The composition on the face can be removed by any means. For example, the composition on the face can be removed by rubbing the face with the finger(s), the hand(s), for example the palm of a hand, and the like, by wiping the face with the finger(s), the hand(s), for example the palm of a hand, and the like, or a paper towel such as a tissue and a napkin, or by rinsing the face with water and the like. (Gesture)
[0094] Figure 1 shows an example of the process according to the present invention.
[0095] In step (1), 5 g or less of a composition comprising (a) at least one polysaccharide is supplied, for example, by being taken from a container including the composition.
[0096] In step (2), the composition is applied to the face. It is preferable that the composition be applied to, at least, the forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin. If the composition is applied to the forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin, it is best to spread it from the center outwards. In [Fig. 1], the application and spreading are performed with the fingers. However, it is also possible to use the palms of the hands to apply and spread the composition on the face.
[0097] In step (3), the composition is applied to the eyelashes. The application can be carried out with the fingers as shown in [Fig. 1] as well as in the direction of the eyelashes. It is best to keep the composition away from the eyes.
[0098] In step (4), the composition is left for a certain period of time, such as five seconds or more. By step (4), the composition on the face may be drier.
[0099] In step (5), the face is massaged with circular movements. In [Fig. 1], the circular movements are performed with the fingers. However, it is preferable to perform circular movements with the palms of the hands to quickly generate aggregates that can take the form of vermicelli.
[0100] In steps (6) and (6'), the composition on the face is removed. In [Fig. 1], the composition on the face is removed in step (6) or step (6') by wiping the face with a towel or rinsing the face with water, respectively. In step (6), it is preferable to use a damp towel. However, instead of a towel, any wiping method such as the hand(s) and / or finger(s), or a tissue can be used. In step (6'), tap water can be used. [Composition]
[0101] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one polysaccharide.
[0102] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may further comprise:
[0103] (b) at least one oil; and
[0104] (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids and their mixtures.
[0105] The ingredients (a) to (c) above and similar ones will be explained in detail below. (Polysaccharide)
[0106] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one polysaccharide. Only one type of polysaccharide may be used, or two or more different types of polysaccharides may be used in combination.
[0107] In one embodiment, it is preferable that the (a) polysaccharide be chosen from polysaccharides derived from microorganisms.
[0108] According to the present invention, the expression "polysaccharides derived from microorganisms" refers to polysaccharides produced by microorganisms such as germs or bacteria.
[0109] Examples of polysaccharides derived from microorganisms include cardollan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0110] It is preferable that the polysaccharides derived from microorganisms be chosen from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof.
[0111] In another embodiment, it is preferable that the (a) polysaccharide be chosen from plant-derived polysaccharides.
[0112] According to the present invention, the expression "plant-derived polysaccharides" refers in particular to polysaccharides obtained from the plant world (plants or algae).
[0113] Examples of plant-derived polysaccharides that can be used according to the present invention include, in particular: a. seaweed extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans, and agars, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans include Satiagum UTC30 and UTC10 from Degussa; an example of an alginate is sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol by ISP; b. gums, such as guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, glucomannan, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum or locust bean gum; examples that can be cited include guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105 by the company Rhodia; c. Modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained, for example, from cereals, such as wheat, maize or rice, from legumes, such as blond peas, from tubers, such as potatoes or cassava, and tapioca starches; dextrins, such as maize dextrins; examples that may be cited include Remy DR I rice starch sold by the Remy company; Roquette B maize starch; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure Solanace by the National Starch company; original tapioca starch powder sold under the name Pure Tapioca by the National Starch company; d. Dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from maize under the name Index from the National Starch company; and
[0114] their mixture s.
[0115] It is preferable that the (a) polysaccharide be chosen from glucomannans.
[0116] Glucomannan:
[0117] Glucomannan as (a) polysaccharide may be selected from water-soluble glucomannan, water-insoluble glucomannan, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the glucomannan is a mixture of water-soluble and water-insoluble glucomannan.
[0118] The term "soluble in water" here means that glucomannan can have a solubility in water at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) with water (pH=7) of 0.1 wt% or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and more preferably 1 wt% or more.
[0119] The expression "insoluble in water" here means that glucomannan can have solubility in water at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) with water (pH=7) less than 0.1 % by weight.
[0120] Glucomannan is a high molecular weight polysaccharide (usually 500,000 < Mw glucomannan < 2,000,000), composed of D-glucose and D-mannose motifs, in which the D-glucose and D-mannose are linked in a ratio of about 2:3 (1:1.6) via [3-1,4-glycosidic linkages.
[0121] Glucomannan is a substantially linear polysaccharide, but may have branching approximately every 50 or 60 units. A portion of the hydroxyl groups of the polysaccharide is acetylated.
[0122] Glucomannan can be found in woodlands, but it is also the main component of konjac gum. Thus, glucomannan can be derived from konjac (Amorphophallus konjac). Konjac (Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant in the Araceae family.
[0123] Glucomannan is originally water-soluble. Glucomannan originally obtained from konjac can be used as water-soluble glucomannan.
[0124] Water-soluble glucomannan can function as a thickener for the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention.
[0125] On the other hand, glucomannan can be treated to be insoluble in water. For example, JP-A-2000-344801 and JP-A-2006-169300 disclose a process for producing water-insoluble glucomannan.
[0126] For example, water-insoluble glucomannan can be prepared by the steps of:
[0127] (1) dissolve a glucomannan-rich flour in water to form a solution ;
[0128] (2) mix the solution with ethanol to precipitate glucomannan;
[0129] (3) add an alkali to the resulting mixture to transform the particles of glucomannan precipitated into irreversible hydrogel particles insoluble in water;
[0130] (4) separate the glucomannan hydrogel particles from the liquid;
[0131] (5) dry the separated hydrogel particles; and
[0132] (6) grind and sieve the dried gel particles to a desired particle size.
[0133] The expression "glucomannan-rich flour" as used herein refers collectively to refined konjac flour, purified glucomannan flour and rapidly soluble konjac flour.
[0134] In step (1), the glucomannan-rich starting flour can be dissolved in water to form an aqueous solution. Since the glucomannan solution can be very viscous, its concentration can be less than 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight.
[0135] In step (2), the glucomannan solution can be mixed with ethanol, preferably by gradually adding the solution to the ethanol with stirring, after which the glucomannan precipitates as fibrous particles.
[0136] Since glucomannan is not soluble in ethanol or an aqueous ethanolic mixture containing more than 30% by weight of ethanol, the weight ratio of ethanol to glucomannan solution can be at least 3:7.
[0137] In step (3), the precipitated glucomannan particles can react with an alkali to produce a water-insoluble, thermally irreversible hydrogel. The reaction can be carried out by adding an alkaline solution to the water-ethanol mixture containing the precipitated glucomannan. Any alkali such as hydroxide Sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, and potassium carbonate can be used. Saturated limewater is preferable, as is common practice in the production of edible konjac. Unlike edible konjac, glucomannan gels retain a fibrous, particulate form. This facilitates the separation of the gel from the liquid.
[0138] In step (4), the gel particles can be separated from the liquid in a centrifuge, for example, and washed with aqueous ethanol at least once. If necessary, the washing solution may contain a non-toxic organic acid such as acetic acid or citric acid to neutralize excess alkali.
[0139] In step (5), the gel particles thus separated can be thoroughly dried to remove the majority of the water in a conventional apparatus, preferably in a hot air dryer at about 105 °C or more.
[0140] In step (6), the dried gel particles can be ground and sieved to obtain a final product of a desired size.
[0141] Water-insoluble glucomannan may be in the form of gel particles. The particle size of water-insoluble glucomannan may be from 10 to 500 microns, preferably from 50 to 500 microns, and more preferably from 100 to 500 microns. The particle size may be volume-based.
[0142] Water-insoluble glucomannan can be deacetylated, due to the action of the alkali used during the process of preparing water-insoluble glucomannan.
[0143] Deacetylated water-insoluble glucomannan can easily aggregate due to hydrogen bonds between the hydroxyl groups of glucomannan molecules to form a gel.
[0144] If an alkali-earth metal hydroxide, such as Ca(OH)2, or one of its salts, is used as an alkali, the water-insoluble glucomannan can be crosslinked by the divalent alkali-earth metal ion such as Ca 2+.
[0145] Commercially available products such as the konjac flour range sold by BLG (Shanghai Brilliant Gum Co., Ltd.) in China and Propol ISLB sold by Shimizu Chemical in Japan may be used as glucomannan.
[0146] It is preferable that the (a) polysaccharide be chosen from polysaccharides derived from microorganisms and / or plants, preferably from the group consisting of cardollan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, agar, tamarind gum, glucomannan and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from the group consisting of agar, tamarind gum, glucomannan and mixtures thereof.
[0147] The quantity of the (a) polysaccharide(s) in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, of preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0148] The quantity of the (a) polysaccharide(s) in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0149] The quantity of the (a) polysaccharide(s) in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may range from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Oil)
[0150] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may comprise (b) at least one oil. Only one type of oil may be used, or two or more different types of oils may be used in combination.
[0151] The (b) oil can form a fatty phase of the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention.
[0152] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid), preferably a liquid, at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.
[0153] The (b) oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0154] The (b) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or similar; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0155] The (b) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
[0156] Examples of vegetable oils include apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0157] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0158] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.
[0159] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0160] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0161] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.
[0162] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and CrC22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0163] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0164] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C3O fatty acids, and preferably C2-C22, may be used. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0165] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0166] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of fatty acids in the range of C6-C30, and preferably in the range of C2-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0167] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0168] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0169] Monoesters and diesters are used in particular, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0170] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0171] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0172] Examples of ether oils include dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:
[0173] R'-O-R2
[0174] in which
[0175] each of R1 and R2 independently designates a linear, branched or cyclic C^alkyl group, preferably a C6-11 alkyl group, and more preferably a C8-12 alkyl group. It may be preferable that R1 and R2 be identical.
[0176] Examples of linear alkyl groups include butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, ecosyl, behenyl, docosyl, tricosyl and tetracosyl.
[0177] Examples of branched alkyl groups include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an 1-ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, an l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, an l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyleoctyl group, and a group 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl.
[0178] Examples of cyclic alkyl groups include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.
[0179] It may be preferable that the ether oil be chosen from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylic ether, dilaurylic ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonyl phenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
[0180] It may be more preferable for the oil ether to be chosen from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
[0181] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0182] Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0183] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0184] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0185] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0186] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from: i. Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, and preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also noteworthy are dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane cyclocopolymers, such as Silicone Volatile FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula:
[0187] Formula: p D" — D*------DH - Dj — CH, ----------------------- CH3 with Dï! ::: — - O— with D1 : - Sî - O — CH3 C s H 17
[0188] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and i. Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.
[0189] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.
[0190] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:
[0191] - Silbione oils from ranges 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
[0192] - the oils in the Mirasil range sold by the company Rhodia;
[0193] - oils from the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s; and
[0194] - Viscasil oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0195] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.
[0196] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
[0197] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:
[0198] in which
[0199] - Ri in Rio are, independently of each other, radicals based of saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci-C30 hydrocarbons, preferably CrCi2 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably Ci-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and
[0200] - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,
[0201] provided that the sum n+m+q is not 0.
[0202] Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names:
[0203] - Silbione oils from the 70 641 range of Rhodia;
[0204] - the oils from the Rhodorsil 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;
[0205] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;
[0206] - silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20;
[0207] - certain oils in the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0208] As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to R10 are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=l in the formula above) is preferred.
[0209] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0210] The term “hydrocarbon” here refers to a compound formed from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and does not include any heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms.
[0211] The hydrocarbon oil may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably volatile.
[0212] The hydrocarbon oil may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, preferably of vegetable origin.
[0213] The hydrocarbon oil is preferably a nonpolar oil. The term "nonpolar oil" used here refers to an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 °C, ôa, is equal to 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
[0214] The hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, alicyclic hydrocarbon oils and aromatic hydrocarbon oils, preferably aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably aliphatic and saturated hydrocarbon oils.
[0215] Hydrocarbon oil can be volatile or non-volatile. It is preferable for the hydrocarbon oil to be volatile. In other words, it is preferable for the hydrocarbon oil to be a volatile hydrocarbon oil.
[0216] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" refers to an oil that is capable of evaporating upon contact with keratinous materials in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oil may be a liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, having in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).
[0217] According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point above 65°C, and even better, above 80°C.
[0218] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from C8-C22 branched hydrocarbons, preferably C9-C2i branched hydrocarbons, and more preferably CiO-C2o branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins). It is even more preferable that the hydrocarbon oil be selected from the group consisting of isodecane, isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), hydrogenated famesene (hemisqualane), isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0219] On the other hand, the hydrocarbon oil can also be chosen from linear C8-C 22 hydrocarbons, preferably linear C9-C 21 hydrocarbons, and more preferably linear C10-C 20 alkanes. It is even more preferable that the hydrocarbon oil be chosen from the group consisting of n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, n-heptadecane, n-octadecane, n-nonadecane and one of their mixtures.
[0220] As a hydrocarbon oil, one or more commercial products may be used. For example, C13-16 isoalkane, isohexadecane, C15-19 alkane and a mixture thereof may be used as a hydrocarbon oil.
[0221] In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from
[0222] - a mineral oil
[0223] - a liquid paraffin or its derivatives,
[0224] - squalane or squalene,
[0225] - isoeicosan,
[0226] - naphthalene oil,
[0227] - polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1,340 g / mole) and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2,160 g / mole) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,
[0228] - polyisobutenes,
[0229] - hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam sold by the Nippon company Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by Amoco (MW = 1340 g / mole), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by Synteal (MW = 6000 g / mole) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by Witco (MW = 1000 g / mole), or Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation,
[0230] - decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, including Indopol L-14,
[0231] - polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g / mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9,200 g / mol) sold or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals, or Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical) and
[0232] - their mixtures.
[0233] In one embodiment, the (b) oil may be chosen from non-silicone oils.
[0234] It may be preferable to choose the (d) oil from among ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof.
[0235] It may be more preferable that (b) oil be chosen from esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, symmetrical ether oils, linear or branched alkanes with a carbon chain length of Cl 1 to C20, and mixtures thereof.
[0236] It may be even more preferable that (b) oil be chosen from the group consisting of C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane, isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof.
[0237] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, and more preferably 15% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0238] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be 40p% by weight or less, more preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0239] The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention can range from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Emulsifier)
[0240] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may comprise (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids, and mixtures thereof. Only one type of emulsifier may be used, or two or more different types of emulsifiers may be used in combination.
[0241] The (c) emulsifier is suitable for making the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention in the form of an emulsion.
[0242] It is preferable that the (c) emulsifier be biodegradable.
[0243] The quantity of the (c) emulsifier(s) in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0244] Furthermore, the quantity of the (c) emulsifier(s) in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, of preference of 3% by weight or less, and more preferably of 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0245] Thus, the quantity of the (c) emulsifier(s) in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0246] The (c) emulsifier is selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids and mixtures thereof.
[0247] Gemini surfactants and glycolipids are explained below. Gemini surfactants
[0248] The gemini or dimeric surfactants used for the present invention are well known. For a detailed description of the various chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, reference may be made to the following publications:
[0249] Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Vol. 113, December 1998, pp. 49-55; And
[0250] Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in gemini Surfactants, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, Vol. 116, no. 7, pp. 67-70.
[0251] The gemini surfactant may be selected from compounds with two or more fatty amide groups (hereinafter referred to as the "amide compound"). The amide compound may be represented by the following formula (A): CHs(CHPi — CONH CH CH—Y' (4¾) 4 NH po CHgCCHgVcOHH -CH (CH^ Y'
[0252] in which
[0253] - Y' independently designates a carboxylic acid group or an alkali salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group,
[0254] - j1, k1, j2 and k2 denote an integer such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = any one of them of (2,0,2,0), (2,0,0,2), (0,2,2,0) and (0,2,0,2), and
[0255] -1 denotes an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14, and more preferably from 10 to 12.
[0256] Preferably, in formula (A), L denotes an integer from 8 to 12, j1 = j2 = 0 and kl = k2 = 2.
[0257] Most preferably, in formula (A), Y' is -COONa, j 1 = j2 = 0, kl = k2 = 2; and L = 10.
[0258] The amide compound can be prepared, for example, by reacting a long-chain acidic n-acyl amino acid anhydride with a basic amino acid, such as lysine, in water and / or a mixed solvent of water and organic solvent(s), or in inert organic solvent(s) such as tetrahydrofuran, benzene, toluene, xylene, tetrachloromethane, chloroform, acetone or the like, or without any solvent, at -5 °C to 200 °C, preferably 5 °C to 100 °C, and more preferably 0 °C to 60 °C.
[0259] Examples of amide compounds include dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine, dimyristoylglutamide sodium lysine and distearoylglutamide sodium lysine.
[0260] Dilauramidolutamide sodium lysine is particularly preferred. Dilauramidolutamide sodium lysine is marketed under the names Pellicer L-10 and L-30 by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Co., Ltd. as an aqueous solution at a concentration of 29% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution; or under the name Pellicer LB-30G by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Co., Ltd. as a mixture of dilauraramidolutamide sodium lysine and butylene glycol.
[0261] In another embodiment, gemini surfactants may also conform to the following formula (I): P o LA 1 (lî < ? " R>in YX
[0262] in which:
[0263] - Ri and R3 represent, independently of each other, an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 25 carbon atoms;
[0264] - R2 represents a spacer group consisting of a linear alkylene chain or branched containing 1 to 12 carbon atoms;
[0265] - X and Y represent, independently of each other, a group -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O) bZ, in which:
[0266] - Z represents a hydrogen atom or the radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM) 2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, in which M represents H or an alkali metal ion or alkaline earth metal ion or ammonium ion or anolammonium ion,
[0267] - a varies from 0 to 15, b varies from 0 to 10, and the sum of a+b varies from 1 to 25; and
[0268] - n varies from 1 to 10.
[0269] The gemini surfactant of formula (I) is preferably such that each of the Ri groups -CO- and R3-CO- comprise 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably represent a coconut fatty acid residue (mainly lauric acid and myristic acid).
[0270] Moreover, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and ba has an average value that varies from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the —SO3M group, where M is preferably an alkali metal ion such as the sodium ion.
[0271] The spacer R2 advantageously consists of a linear alkylene chain Ci-C3 and preferably an ethylene chain (CH2CH2). Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.
[0272] A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name: Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure: O U LPEG-15)-^0, Na cocoyl—C—N EYELASH Cll2 cocoyl— CN ——SO^Na O
[0273] it being understood that PEG represents the group -CH2CH2O- and that "cocoyl" represents the fatty acid residue of coconut.
[0274] This surfactant has a molecular structure that is very similar to that of ceramide-3.
[0275] Preferably, the gemini surfactant of formula (I) can be used in mixture with other surfactants and in particular in mixture with (a) an ester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably Ci4-C20 such as stearate) and glyceryl, (b) a diester of a C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably Ci4-C20 such as stearate) and citric acid and glycerol (in particular an ester of a C6-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl monocitrate), and (c) a Ci0-C30 fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).
[0276] Advantageously, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention comprises a mixture of sodium PEG-15 dicocoylethylenediamine sulfate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate monocitrate and behenyl alcohol.
[0277] For example, the Gemini surfactant of formula (I) can be used in mixtures with other surfactants in the form of products sold by Sasol under the trade name Ceralution, such as in particular the following products:
[0278] Ceralution H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name),
[0279] Ceralution F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name), and
[0280] Ceralution C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabia, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI names).
[0281] The gemini surfactant of formula (I) may represent from 3% to 50% by weight of the above mixtures. Preferably, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may comprise, as gemini surfactant of formula (I), a raw material bearing the INCI name: Behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, sold under the trade name Ceralution H by Sasol.
[0282] The amount of gemini surfactant(s) in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0283] Furthermore, the quantity of gemini surfactant(s) in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0284] Thus, the quantity of gemini surfactant(s) in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Glycolipids
[0285] The term "glycolipid" means a compound formed from a lipid to which one or more sugar compounds are attached.
[0286] The glycolipid may be selected from glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, rhamnolipids and mixtures thereof.
[0287] The glycolipid may preferably be chosen from among the sophorolipids rhamnolipids, and their mixtures, and, more preferably, from among the rhamnolipids.
[0288] Preferably, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention comprises at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferably comprises at least one rhamnolipid.
[0289] Glucolipids:
[0290] Glycolipids can be chosen from glucolipids, which contain a glucose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (I): P
[0291] in which:
[0292] - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,
[0293] - p denotes an integer from 1 to 4, and
[0294] - q denotes an integer from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.
[0295] Glycolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MML
[0296] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by Mr. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203. The glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using diethyl ether or a dichloromethane:methanol or chloroform:methanol mixture.
[0297] Sophorolipids:
[0298] The glycolipid can be selected from sophorolipids, which comprise a sophorose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (II):
[0299] in which:
[0300] - R3 and R4 individually represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,
[0301] - R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, comprising from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl,
[0302] - R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, containing from 1 to 19 carbon atoms,
[0303] provided that the total number of carbon atoms in groups R5 and R6 does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18.
[0304] Sophorolipids can be incorporated into the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention either in the form of an open-chain free acid, where R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxy group OH, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8, as indicated by formula (III): (III)
[0305] in which:
[0306] - R3, R4, R5 and R6 are as defined above
[0307] provided that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetyl group.
[0308] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example, Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.
[0309] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed in AP Tulloch, JFT Spencer and PAJ Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones which can be used in mixtures, or the required form can be isolated.
[0310] It is possible to use as a sophorolipid, for example that sold under the name Sopholiance S by Givaudan and that sold under the name BioToLife by BASF.
[0311] Trehalolipids:
[0312] The glycolipid can be selected from the trehalolipids, which comprise a trehalose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (IV):
[0313] in which:
[0314] - R9, R10 and R11 individually represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, containing from 5 to 13 carbon atoms.
[0315] Trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis. Suitable fermentation methods are proposed by Ishigami et al. (1987), J. Jpn. Oil Chem. Soc., 36, 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203, and Passeri et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 204-209.
[0316] Cellobiose lipids:
[0317] The glycolipid can be chosen from cellobiose lipids, which comprise a cellobiose fraction and can be represented by the general formula (V): (V) COÔR' 112 R CH3
[0318] in which:
[0319] - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,
[0320] - R12 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, having 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms,
[0321] - R13 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group; and
[0322]
[0323]
[0324]
[0325]
[0326]
[0327]
[0328] - R14 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, with 4 to 16 carbon atoms. Cellobiose lipids can be produced by fungal cells of the genus Ustilago. Suitable fermentation processes are proposed by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762. Rhamnolipids: Glycolipids can be chosen from among rhamnolipids. The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids. Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three [3-hydroxylated] fatty acid chains linked together by an ester bond. Preferably, the rhamnolipids are chosen from among the mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids corresponding to the following formula (VI): (VI)
[0329]
[0330]
[0331]
[0332] in which: - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and - Riet R2 each independently represent identical or different hydrocarbon radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably an alkyl radical that is simply, doubly or triply unsaturated.
[0333] Thus, when n is equal to 0, formula (VI) protects mono-rhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it protects di-rhamnolipids.
[0334] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid.
[0335] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (V) in which:
[0336] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;
[0337] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and
[0338] - Ri and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon radicals identical or different, having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a simply, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl radical, as well as their salts, solvates and optical isomers.
[0339] The glycosidic linkage between the two rhamnose fragments can be in alpha or beta configuration and is preferably in alpha configuration.
[0340] In the context of the present invention,
[0341] - the salts of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly their salts carboxylates with an organic or inorganic cation, and in particular with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium.
[0342] - the solvated forms of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated by one or more molecules of water or organic solvents, for example a hydrate or solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of fatty acids being preferably in the form of R enantiomers, and
[0343] - the term "alkyl" radical designates a saturated, linear aliphatic group or branched; for example, an alkyl group in Ci-C2o having a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or ecosyl group.
[0344] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (V) in which:
[0345] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;
[0346] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and
[0347] - Ri and R2, which are identical or different, are chosen from among the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl and radicals of formula -(CH2)OCH3, o denoting an integer from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.
[0348] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.
[0349] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.
[0350] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.
[0351] More preferably, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of the following formula (VII): O
[0352] in which:
[0353] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1,
[0354] - n denotes an integer equal to 1,
[0355] - Ri is a radical (CH2)P-CH3, p being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, of Preference for 4 to 12,
[0356] - R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3, q being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, of Preference for 4 to 12,
[0357] and also their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers.
[0358] By way of illustration and without limiting the di-rhamnolipides of formula (VII) which may be suitable for the present invention, particular mention may be made of the compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY, as defined in Table 1 below.
[0359] The formula di-RL-CXCY is a variant of writing to represent a di-rhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized by two radicals Ri and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.
[0360] [Table 1] Table 1 Coisipasés DLRL-CXCY P « I «1,-CSCS 2j ™ ___ 4 î 4^'CÎOCiô 4 § 4 .......6.....~ 4 s dsRLClOCD O g 6 7 ] ÆRL-C12C12 s S 8 dM-C12C14 s 10 $ | «.-CHC12 .................................................. — ÎÛ W W....... s ------........ 12 12 12 10 13 «L-ClgClS H 13
[0361] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also called di-RL-ClOCIO, or one of its salts, solvated and optical isomers.
[0362] Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 is present in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.
[0363] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8.
[0364] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a -(CH2)OCH3 radical, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 being selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, Ri represents a -(CH2)6CH3 radical and R2 a nonenyl radical.
[0365] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:
[0366] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1;
[0367] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8; and
[0368] - at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl; preferably, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.
[0369] Preferably, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:
[0370] - at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipids,
[0371] - from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1, with respect to the total weight of the rhamnolipids, and
[0372] - from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% % to 10% by weight, of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.
[0373] Rhamnolipids are usually prepared by processes known to those skilled in the art from bacterial producers, such as Pseudomonas.
[0374] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and HP Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. RM Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.
[0375] The product sold under the name Rheance One by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids) can be used as a rhamnolipide.
[0376] The amount of glycolopide(s) in the composition to be used for the process above according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0377] The amount of glycolipid(s) in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0378] The amount of glycolipid(s) in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Water)
[0379] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may include (d) water.
[0380] (d) Water can form an aqueous phase of the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention.
[0381] The quantity of (d) water in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0382] The amount of (d) water in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 93% by weight or less, and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0383] The quantity of (d) water in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention can range from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 93% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Other ingredients)
[0384] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.
[0385] The optional or additional ingredient(s) may be chosen from the group consisting of cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, other than ingredient (c) above; lipophilic or hydrophilic thickeners other than ingredient (a) above; perfumes; preservatives, co-preservatives, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.
[0386] The quantity of the optional ingredient or ingredients) or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention.
[0387] In one embodiment, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be substantially silicone-free. The expression "substantially silicone-free" means that the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention does not include silicone, or includes at least one silicone in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Methods of implementation)
[0388] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition to be used in the process of the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0389] from 0.5% to 15% by weight of (a) at least one polysaccharide;
[0390] of 5% to 40% by weight of (b) at least one oil; and
[0391] from 0.001% to 5% by weight of (c) at least one emulsifier selected from the Gemini surfactants, glycolipids and their mixtures.
[0392] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition to be used in the process of the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0393] of 1% to 10% by weight of (a1) at least one glucomannan;
[0394] from 10% to 35% by weight of (b) at least one oil selected from ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof; and
[0395] from 0.01% to 3% by weight of (c) at least one emulsifier selected from (1) gemini surfactants represented by formula (A) above; (2) glycolipids selected from glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, rhamnolipids and mixtures thereof; and (3) mixtures thereof.
[0396] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition to be used for the process of the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0397] of 1.5% to 5% by weight of (a1) at least one glucomannan;
[0398] of 15% to 30% by weight of (b) at least one oil selected from the group consisting of esters of monoalcohols and monoacids, dialkyl ethers, linear or branched alkanes with a carbon chain length of Cl 1 to C20, and mixtures thereof; and
[0399] from 0.01% to 3% by weight of (c) at least one emulsifier selected from (1) gemini surfactants selected from the group consisting of dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine, dimyristoylglutamide sodium lysine, distearoylglutamide sodium lysine and a mixture thereof; (2) glycolipids selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids and mixtures thereof; and (3) mixtures thereof.
[0400] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition,
[0401] of 1.5% to 5% by weight of (a1) at least one glucomannan;
[0402] of 15% to 25% by weight of (b) at least one oil selected from the group consisting in C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane, isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof; and
[0403] from 0.01% to 3% by weight of (c) at least one emulsifier selected from (1) dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine, (2) rhamnolipids and (3) mixtures thereof. (Preparation)
[0404] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if applicable, as explained above.
[0405] The method and means for mixing the essential and optional ingredients above are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the essential and optional ingredients above in order to prepare the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention. (Shape)
[0406] One form of the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention is not limited.
[0407] For example, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be an oil-based composition. In this case, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be in liquid form and the like.
[0408] If the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one oil, (c) at least one emulsifier and (d) water, the composition may be in the form of an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or an H / W emulsion, more preferably an H / W emulsion, and even more preferably an H / W gel emulsion.
[0409] The composition to be used for the process according to the present invention, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, may comprise dispersed fatty phases such as oily phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases may be in the form of oil droplets in the aqueous phase. Preferably, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water gel emulsion.
[0410] The H / W architecture or structure, which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and consequently, the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention having the H / W architecture or structure can provide a pleasant sensation during use due to the immediate feeling of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.
[0411] The oily phase in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may further comprise any hydrophobic ingredient in addition to (b) oil.
[0412] For example, the oil phase of the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may comprise at least one lipophilic or liposoluble cosmetic active ingredient. Only one type of such cosmetic active ingredient may be used, or two or more different types of such a cosmetic active ingredient may be used in combination.
[0413] The amount of the fat phase in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0414] The amount of the oil phase in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0415] The quantity of the fatty phase in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention can range from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0416] The aqueous phase, if any, in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may further comprise any hydrophilic ingredient in addition to (d) water.
[0417] For example, the aqueous phase, if any, of the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic or water-soluble cosmetic active ingredient. Only one type of such cosmetic active ingredient may be used, or two or more different types of such a cosmetic active ingredient may be used in combination.
[0418] In addition, the aqueous phase may include at least one pH adjuster such as an acid and a base, and / or at least one organic solvent such as a diol and a polyol.
[0419] The quantity of the aqueous phase in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0420] The amount of aqueous phase in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 93% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0421] The quantity of the aqueous phase in the composition to be used for the process according to the present invention can range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0422] The weight ratio of the fat phase / aqueous phase can be from 50 / 50 to 1 / 99, preferably from 50 / 50 to 5 / 95, and more preferably from 50 / 50 to 10 / 90. EXAMPLES
[0423] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which, however, should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Example 1 and Comparative Example 1] (Example 1)
[0424] 3 g of a composition having the formulation shown in Table 2 below have samples were taken from a container containing the composition with dry fingers, and placed on the palm of a hand.
[0425] Next, the composition was applied to the forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin of each panelist's face, and spread over the face with dry fingers, without wetting the face with water. The composition was also applied to the eyelashes with the fingers.
[0426] Next, the composition was left on the face for five seconds.
[0427] Next, the face was massaged with circular motions using the palms of the hands without wetting the hands with water. Granules resembling vermicelli formed within 30 seconds of the start of the circular motions.
[0428] After massage, the face was wiped with a damp towel, and any remaining aggregates and composition were removed by rinsing the face with water. (Comparative Example 1)
[0429] 9 g of a composition having the formulation shown in Table 2 below have samples were taken from a container containing the composition with dry fingers, and placed on the palm of a hand.
[0430] Next, the composition was applied to the forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin of each panelist's face, and spread over the face with dry fingers, without wetting the face with water. The composition was also applied to the eyelashes with the fingers.
[0431] Next, the composition was left on the face for five seconds.
[0432] Next, the face was massaged with circular movements using the palms of the hands without wetting the hands with water. Vermicelli-like aggregates formed 60 seconds after the start of the circular movements.
[0433] After massage, the face was wiped with a damp towel, and any remaining aggregates and composition were removed by rinsing the face with water. (Composition)
[0434] The composition for the process according to Example 1 or Comparative Example 1 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 2. The numerical values of the quantities of ingredients in Table 2 are all based on a "% by weight" of active substances.
[0435] [Table 2] Table 2 Quantity (% by weight) Glucomannan (1) 2 Glucomannan (2) 0.5 Dicaprylyl Ether 20 Dilauramidoglutamide Sodium Lysine 0.03 Glycolipids (3) 0.4 Preservatives qs pH Adjuster qs pH 5.5+0.2 Water qsp 100 1. Konjac flour sold by BLG 2. Propol ISLB sold by Shimizu Chemical 3. Rheance One sold by Evonik Goldschmidt
[0436] The process according to the present invention can offer good cleaning efficiency compared to the comparative process.
[0437] Indeed, the aggregates in the form of vermicelli were generated more rapidly with the process according to the present invention compared to the comparative process.
[0438] In addition, the process according to the present invention can offer a feeling of user comfort and a feeling of freshness.
Claims
Demands
1. A facial cleansing process comprising the steps of: (1) providing 5 g or less, preferably 4 g or less, and more preferably 3 g or less, of a composition comprising (a) at least one polysaccharide; (2) applying the composition to the face; (3) optionally applying the composition to the eyelashes of the face; (4) optionally leaving the composition on the face, preferably for 3 seconds or more, more preferably for 4 seconds or more, and even more preferably for 5 seconds or more; (5) massaging the face with circular motions; and (6) removing the composition from the face.
2. Process according to claim 1, wherein the composition is taken from a container comprising the composition, in step 1), by hand, preferably with a dry hand.
3. Process according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the face, at step (2), is dry.
4. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the face is massaged, in step (5), with the hands, preferably the fingertips and / or the palm of the hands, more preferably the palm of the hands, and even more preferably the dry palm of the hands.
5. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the circular movements, in step (5), are capable of forming aggregates derived from (a) polysaccharide in the composition.
6. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein steps (1) to (5) are repeated before step (6).
7. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein (a) the polysaccharide is selected from polysaccharides derived from microorganisms and / or plants, preferably from the group consisting of cardollan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, agar, tamarind gum, glucomannan and mixtures thereof, and more preferably in the group consisting of sclerotium gum, agar, tamarind gum, glucomannan and mixtures thereof.
8. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises: (b) at least one oil; and (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids and mixtures thereof.
9. A process according to any one of claims 7 or 8, wherein glycolipids are selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from rhamnolipids.
10. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.5% to 15% by weight of (a) at least one polysaccharide; from 5% to 40% by weight of (b) at least one oil; and from 0.001% to 5% by weight of (c) at least one emulsifier selected from gemini surfactants, glycolipids and mixtures thereof.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
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