COACERVAT CLEANSING COMPOSITION WITH ACNE TREATMENT ACTIVE

Abstract

COACERVAT CLEANSING COMPOSITION WITH ACNE TREATMENT ACTIVE The disclosure relates to compositions comprising (a) at least one amphoteric surfactant, (b) at least one glycolipid, (c) at least one cationic polymer at a concentration of approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%; (d) at least one acne treatment active, and (e) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent, in which the cleansing system is substantially free of phenoxyethanol, and in which the pH of the composition is between approximately 4 and approximately 8, and in which the weight ratio of a to b is approximately 0.4 to approximately 4, and in which the combined concentration of a and b is approximately 10% to approximately 20% of the total weight of the composition. The compositions may be used as rinse-off compositions to cleanse the skin and deposit acne treatment actives. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COACERVAT CLEANSING COMPOSITION WITH ACNE TREATMENT ACTIVE technical field

[0001] This disclosure relates to a skin care composition, in particular, a coacervate cleansing composition containing an acne treatment active ingredient. CONTEXT

[0002] Current skincare routines typically require multiple steps and products to achieve desired skincare results. Typical skincare routines usually include a skin cleansing step followed by another product to impart various skincare benefits such as hydration, brightening, or anti-acne effects. Common skin cleansers usually rely on surfactants to provide cleansing and do not deposit skincare actives onto the skin.

[0003] There is a market need for skin cleansing compositions that provide enhanced deposition of skincare actives, particularly acne treatment actives. As such, consumers desire new and improved skin cleansing compositions that can cleanse the skin and also deliver active ingredients for anti-acne purposes. SUMMARY

[0004] In various embodiments, a coacervate cleaning system is proposed, comprising: a. at least one amphoteric surfactant; b. at least one glycolipid; c. at least one cationic polymer at a rate of about 0.05% to about 2% by weight; d. at least one active ingredient for treating acne, e. at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;

[0005] wherein the cleaning system is essentially free of phenoxyethanol, and wherein the pH of the composition is between 4 and 8, and wherein the weight ratio between a and b is about 0.4 to about 4, and wherein the total concentration of a and b combined is about 10% to about 20% of the total weight of the composition.

[0006] In certain embodiments, a coacervate cleaning system is proposed, comprising: a. at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from the group consisting of cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine and coco betaine at a rate of about 3% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; b. at least one glycolipid selected from the group consisting of rhamnolipid and sophorolipid at a rate of about 2% to about 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; c. at least one cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of chitosan and polylysine at a rate of about 0.1% to about 0.2%; d. at least one acne treatment active ingredient selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, and their combinations; at a concentration of approximately 0.1% to approximately 5%; and e. of water;

[0007] wherein the cleaning system is essentially free of phenoxyethanol, and wherein the pH of the composition is between 4 and 8, and wherein the weight ratio between a and b is from about 0.4 to about 4.

[0008] In some embodiments, a method for depositing at least one acne treatment active ingredient on the skin during cleansing is proposed, comprising (i) applying a coacervate cleansing system to the skin of a subject, comprising: a. at least one amphoteric surfactant; b. at least one glycolipid; c. at least one cationic polymer at a concentration of approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%; d. at least one active ingredient for treating acne; and e. at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent

[0009] wherein the cleansing system is essentially free of phenoxyethanol, and wherein the pH of the composition is between 4 and 8, and wherein the weight ratio between a and b is about 0.4 to about 4, and wherein the total concentration of a and b combined is about 10% to about 20% of the total weight of the composition, and (ii) the removal of the cleansing system from the skin.

[0010] The coacervat system described in the present invention is a unique phenomenon that demonstrates enhanced stability, which is beneficial during skin cleansing. The coacervat phenomenon is demonstrated by the phase transition of the system, which initially appears clear and then cloudy after dilution with water. This coacervat cleansing system offers a unique cleansing experience characterized by enhanced foaming properties and good stability.

[0011] The described coacervat cleansing system has unique physical characteristics and becomes foamy when diluted with water, which could enhance the deposition of skincare actives on the skin. It has been surprisingly observed that compositions with the above-disclosed ratio of glycolipids and Amphoteric surfactants demonstrate enhanced deposition of acne treatment actives on the skin. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0012] [Fig.1] [Fig.1]. Compositions of coacervate cleaning system A to D before dilution.

[0013] [Fig.2] [Fig.2]. Coacervate cleaning system compositions A to D after dilution with water.

[0014] [Fig.3] [Fig.3]. Coacervat cleaning system containing the salicylic acid composition 19 before it is rinsed and tinted with ferric chloride.

[0015] [Fig.4] [Fig.4]. Coacervat cleaning system containing the composition of salicylic acid 19 once rinsed and tinted with ferric chloride.

[0016] [Fig.5] [Fig.5]. Non-inventive composition 20 once rinsed and tinted with ferric chloride.

[0017] [Fig.6] [Fig.6]. Non-inventive composition 21 once rinsed and tinted with ferric chloride.

[0018] It should be understood that the preceding and following descriptions are given solely by way of example and explanation, and are not intended to restrict any claimed subject matter. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0019] The disclosure relates to compositions for the deposition of acne treatment actives on the skin after skin cleansing and methods of using the compositions. I. COMPOSITIONS

[0020] Amphoteric surfactants:

[0021] In the various embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant (or zwitterionic surfactant). In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition may include or exclude one or more nonionic, cationic, or anionic surfactants. In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition includes a combination of amphoteric surfactants.

[0022] In some embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant may include an alkyl betaine, an alkylamidopropyl betaine, an alkyl hydroxysultaine, an alkylamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, alkylamidopropylamine N-oxide, an alkyldimethylamine N-oxide, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, or a combination thereof. of preferred embodiments, the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine and coco betaine.

[0023] In some embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant may be chosen from, for example, betaines, alkyl sultaines, alkyl amphoathetas and alkyl amphodiacetates, alkyl amphopropionates, amphocarboxylates, alkyl betaines, amidoalkyl betaines, amphophosphates, phosphobetaines, pyrophosphobetaines, carboxyalkylpolyamines, amidoalkyl sultaines, their salts, or mixtures thereof.

[0024] Betaines that can be used in these compositions include those corresponding to the formulas below: CH3 l R10 -N+- (CH2)n- COO' I CH3 ch2-ch2-oh I Rio - C - N - CH2- CH2- N+- CH2COO' II II OH H CH3 Rio -N+- (CH2)n- SO3" CH3 ch3 R10 - C - N - (CH2)n- N+-CH2COO" II OH CH

[0025] in which

[0026] - R10 is an alkyl group having 8-10 carbon atoms; and

[0027] - N is an integer from 1 to 3.

[0028] Particularly useful betaines include, for example, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0029] The hydroxyl sultaines useful in the compositions of the invention include those of following formula

[0030] in which

[0031] - R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0032] More specific examples include, but are not limited to, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, or mixtures thereof.

[0033] Useful alkylamphoacetates include those corresponding to the formula OH

[0034] in which

[0035] - R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0036] Useful alkyl amphodiacetates include those corresponding to the formula O Na VA o A to 1. R' X...- X / Q OH

[0037] in which

[0038] - R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0039] Non-limiting examples of useful alkyl amphopropionates include cocoamphopropionate, caprylamphopropionate, maisamphopropionate, caproampho-propionate, oleoamphopropionate, isostearoamphopropionate, stearoamphopropionate, lauroamphopropionate, their salts, or mixtures thereof.

[0040] At least one amphoteric surfactant of this disclosure may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. In of preferred embodiments, at least one amphoteric surfactant is chosen from cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, coco betaine, or mixtures thereof.

[0041] The total concentration of the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least one glycolipid is approximately 10% to approximately 20% of the total weight of the composition. The weight ratio between the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least one glycolipid is approximately 0.4 to approximately 4. The at least one amphoteric surfactant may be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition, for example, in a range of approximately 3% to approximately 8%, relative to the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.

[0042] For example, at least one amphoteric surfactant may be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition as disclosed in a concentration of approximately 3% to approximately 8%, or approximately 3% to approximately 7%, or approximately 3% to approximately 6%, or approximately 3% to approximately 5%, or approximately 3% to approximately 4%, or approximately 3% to approximately 8%, or approximately 4% to approximately 8%, or approximately 5% to approximately 8%, or approximately 6% to approximately 8%, or approximately 7% to approximately 8%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0043] Glycolipids:

[0044] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more glycolipids.

[0045] The term "glycolipid" means a compound formed from a lipid to which one or more sugar compounds are linked.

[0046] One or more glycolipids may be selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipid, and mixtures thereof.

[0047] Glucolipids:

[0048] The one or more glycolipids may be glucolipids, which contain a glucose fraction and may be represented by the general formula (I):

[0049] in which:

[0050] - RI represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0051] - p denotes an integer from 1 to 4, and

[0052] - q denotes an integer from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.

[0053] Glycolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MM1.

[0054] The appropriate fermentation processes are reviewed by Mr. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203. The glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using diethyl ether or a dichloromethane:methanol or chloroform:methanol mixture.

[0055] Sophorolipids:

[0056] One or more glycolipids may be sophorolipids, which contain a sophorose fraction and may be represented by the general formula (II):

[0057] in which:

[0058] - R3 and R4 individually represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,

[0059] - R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, having from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl,

[0060] - R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated having from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, provided that the total number of carbon atoms in groups R5 and R6 does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18.

[0061] Sophorolipids can be incorporated into the composition according to the present invention either in the form of the open-chain free acid, where R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxy group OH, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8, as indicated by formula (III):

[0062] in which:

[0063] - R3, R4, R5 and R6 are as defined above,

[0064] provided that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetyl group.

[0065] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.

[0066] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed in AP Tulloch, JFT Spencer and PAJ Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones which can be used in mixtures, or the required form can be isolated.

[0067] It is possible to use as sophorolipids, for example that sold under the name Sopholiance S by Givaudan and that sold under the name BioToLife by BASF.

[0068] Trehalolipids:

[0069] One or more glycolipids may be trehalolipids, which contain a trehalose fragment and may be represented by the general formula (IV): OH (IV)

[0070] in which:

[0071] - R9, RIO and RI1 individually represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, containing from 5 to 13 carbon atoms.

[0072] Trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis. Suitable fermentation methods are proposed by Ishigami et al. (1987), J. Jpn. Oil Chem. Soc., 36, 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203, and Passeri et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 204-209.

[0073] Cellobiose lipids:

[0074] One or more glycolipids may be cellobiose lipids, which contain a cellobiose fragment and may be represented by the general formula (V): ; (V)

[0075] in which:

[0076] - RI represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0077] - R12 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, having 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms,

[0078] - R13 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group;

[0079] - R14 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, having from 4 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0080] Cellobiose lipids can be produced by fungal cells of the genus Ustilago. Suitable fermentation processes are proposed by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762.

[0081] Rhamnolipids:

[0082] One or more glycolipids may be rhamnolipids.

[0083] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.

[0084] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three [3-hydroxylated] fatty acid chains linked together by an ester bond.

[0085] More specifically, these mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids correspond to the following formula (VI): (VI)

[0086] in which:

[0087] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,

[0088] - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and

[0089] - RI and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon radicals identical or different having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably an alkyl radical simply, doubly or triply unsaturated.

[0090] Thus, when n is equal to 0, formula (VI) protects mono-rhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it protects di-rhamnolipids.

[0091] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid.

[0092] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0093] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0094] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0095] - RI and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon radicals identical or different, having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably an alkyl radical simply, doubly or triply unsaturated, as well as their salts, solvates and optical isomers.

[0096] The glycosidic linkage between the two rhamnose fragments can be in alpha or beta configuration and is preferably in alpha configuration.

[0097] In the context of the invention,

[0098] - the salts of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly their salts carboxylate with an organic or inorganic cation and in particular with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium.

[0099] - the solvated forms of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated with one or more molecules of water or organic solvents, for example a hydrate or solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of fatty acids preferably being in the form of R enantiomers, and

[0100] - the term "alkyl radical" designates a saturated, linear aliphatic group or branched; for example, a C1-C20 alkyl group having a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or ecosyl group.

[0101] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0102] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0103] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0104] - RI and R2, which are identical or different, are chosen from among the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl and radicals of formula -(CH2)oCH3, o denoting an integer from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.

[0105] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.

[0106] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.

[0107] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.

[0108] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of the following formula (VII): (VII)

[0109]

[0110] [YES]

[0112]

[0113]

[0114]

[0115]

[0116]

[0117] in which: - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1, - n denotes an integer equal to 1, - RI is a radical (CH2)p-CH3, where p is an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, - R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3, where q is an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, and also their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers. By way of illustration and without limiting the di-rhamnolipides of formula (VII) which may be suitable for the invention, particular examples may be given to the compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY, as defined in Table 1 below. The formula di-RL-CXCY is a variant of writing to represent a di-rhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized by two radicals RI and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4. [Tables 1] Compounds Ds-RL-CXCY PQ 1 OX-C8CS 4 4 3 dîKL-dcW 4 6 3 ë 4 4 âiël-CISCW 6 5 dsS-CWCD 6 s 6 OL-cncw S 6 XSL-C12Œ g S s S 10 1<> 10 wn 10 12 12 «L-CMCM 12 10 13 12 12

[0118] Table 1 - di-rhamnolipids of formula (VII)

[0119] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also called di-RL-ClOCIO, or one of its salts, solvated and optical isomers.

[0120] Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipids.

[0121] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8.

[0122] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, RI represents a radical -(CH2)oCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, RI represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0123] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:

[0124] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1;

[0125] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8; and

[0126] - at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, RI represents a radical -(CH2)oCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, RI represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0127] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:

[0128] - at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight of a di- rhamnolipide of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, with respect to the total weight of rhamnolipides.

[0129] - from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1, with respect to the total weight of the rhamnolipids, and

[0130] - from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% at 10% by weight, of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, RI represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0131] As specified above, rhamnolipids are usually prepared by processes known to the person skilled in the art from bacterial producers, such as Pseudomonas.

[0132] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and HP Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. RM Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0133] The rhamnolipide sold under the name Rheance One by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids) can be used as a rhamnolipide.

[0134] In preferred embodiments, at least one glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, or mixtures thereof.

[0135] The total concentration of the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least one glycolipid is approximately 10% to approximately 20% of the total weight of the composition. The weight ratio between the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least one glycolipid is approximately 0.4 to approximately 4. The at least one glycolipid may be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of approximately 3% to approximately 7%, relative to the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.

[0136] For example, at least one glycolipid may be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition as disclosed at a concentration of approximately 3% to approximately 7%, or approximately 3% to approximately 6%, or approximately 3% to approximately 5%, or approximately 3% to approximately 4%, or approximately 3% to approximately 7%, or approximately 4% to approximately 7%, or approximately 5% to approximately 7%, or approximately 6% to approximately 7%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0137] Cationic Polymer:

[0138] In the various embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition comprises at least one cationic polymer selected from natural polymers that are polysaccharides, and other natural (i.e. of plant, animal or bacterial origin), synthetic, or modified cationic polymers of natural or synthetic origin.

[0139] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is a polymer of natural origin. In general, a cationic polymer of natural origin can be chosen from cationic forms and cationic derivatives of polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides produced by microorganisms and polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides.

[0140] In some embodiments, the naturally occurring cationic polymer selected from polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides that include chitosan, chitin, starches, alginates, celluloses, galactomannans such as guar gums, in particular their cationic derivatives, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, at least one naturally occurring cationic polymer selected from polysaccharides may be chosen from chitosan, chitosan derivatives, chitin, starch, starch derivatives, cellulose (for example, but not limited to, ethylcellulose, nitrocellulose, hemicellulose and hemicellulose derivatives), alginates, including, but not limited to, sodium alginate, and combinations thereof.

[0141] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is selected from chitosan, a chitosan oligosaccharide, chitin, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose, polylysine, polyomithine, histone, collagen, chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutylamidine, chitosan-thioglycolic acid, or a mixture thereof.

[0142] In preferred embodiments, at least one cationic polymer is chosen from chitosan, polylysine, or combinations thereof.

[0143] Chitosan:

[0144] The composition according to the invention comprises from about 0.05% by weight to about 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons (3 kDa) (1 Da = 1 g / mol).

[0145] Preferably, the native chitosan has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 10 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 15 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 20 kDa. Preferably, the native chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

[0146] Chitosan is not very common in nature. It has only been reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, namely the zygomycetes.

[0147] Chitosan is obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs linked together by a [3-(1,4) type bond.

[0148] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a chain of [3-D-glucosamine] monomers linked by a glycoside (1—>4) bond.

[0149] According to the invention, "chitosan" means any copolymer formed from N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine constituent motifs, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar motifs (deacetylated motifs) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs (acetylated motifs) linked together by [3(1,4) type bonds and represents a poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) type polymer.

[0150] Preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 80%, preferably less than or equal to 70%, preferably less than or equal to 60%, preferably less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, and preferably less than or equal to 15%.

[0151] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated motifs relative to the total number of motifs, and can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or titration with a strong base.

[0152] The chitosan of the invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant food-grade or biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

[0153] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of an Ascomycete fungus, and in particular Aspergillus niger, and / or of a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0154] Chitosan may be of GMO origin, but is preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0155] The chitosan according to the invention is native, that is to say, it is not modified. In In particular, it has not undergone any chemical modification.

[0156] A process for preparing chitosan is that described in application WO03068824.

[0157] Preferably, the chitosan used in the invention is in powder form. It is notably marketed by Kitozyme under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime.

[0158] Chitosan is preferably present in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polylysine

[0159] According to the present invention, the cationic polymer can be selected from polylysines. A single type of polylysine can be used, or two or more different types of polylysine can be used in combination.

[0160] Polylysines are formed by the condensation of several amino acids of lysine. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine, which can be produced by bacterial fermentation. Polylysines are typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water.

[0161] Polylysine can be, for example, an epsilon-polylysine (or designated as "e-polylysine"), which is a condensation of amino groups in the e position and carboxyl groups of lysines, or an alpha-polylysine (or designated as "a-polylysine"), which is a condensation of amino groups in the a position and carboxyl groups of lysines. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. Polylysine is generally a condensate of L-lysines, i.e., poly L-lysine.

[0162] Examples of polylysine include:

[0163] - Epsilon-poly-L-lysine from JNC CORPORATION, which is a 25% solution of Epsilon-poly-L-lysine having a weight average molecular weight of approximately 4700 in aqueous solution.

[0164] Polylysine can be in the form of organic or inorganic salts. Addition salts with an acid include, for example, salts of hydrochloric or hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, para-toluenesulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, or acetic acid; or salts of fatty acids, such as linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and 18-methylicosanoic acid. Addition salts with a base include, for example, a salt of sodium, a calcium salt, or a hydroxyalkylamine salt, for example, of N-methylglucamine, aminopropane diol or triethanolamine.

[0165] In some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the polylysine of the present invention is present as a single molecule in the composition, or is not covalently bonded to other compounds. In one embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is not covalently bonded to dye compounds. In another embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is not covalently bonded to polyorganosiloxane compounds. The term "polyorganosiloxane" is well known in the art to designate compounds having a Si-O main chain and organic functional groups attached to the main chain.

[0166] In another embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is in free form. The term "free form" here indicates that the polylysine is not covalently bonded to other compounds.

[0167] Polylysine is present in the cosmetic cleansing composition as disclosed at a concentration of approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%, or approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, or approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.5%, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.2%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0168] Thus, a polymer or a combination of polymers may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, from about 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.90, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 to about 2 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0169] In other embodiments, the naturally occurring cationic polymer selected from polysaccharides may be selected from one or more of the following: methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, fructans such as inulin, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, agars, glycosaminoglycans, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, microbial biopolysaccharide gums such as scleroglucan or xanthan gum, mucopolysaccharides, chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof.

[0170] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is not a naturally occurring polymer and may be chosen from synthetic polymers. In some examples, the synthetic polymers are not silicone-based, and in Certain embodiments may be chosen from the group consisting of polyquaterniums, i.e. polymers having quaternary ammonium centers in the polymer, for example, including polyquaternium-47 (1-Propanaminium, N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(2-methyl-l-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-, chloride, polymer with methyl 2-propenoate and 2-propenoic acid). Other non-limiting examples of these polyquaternium compounds may be chosen from the diallyldimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymers sold under the names MERQUAT 280 POLYMER or MERQUAT 280NP POLYMER or MERQUAT 281 POLYMER or MERQUAT 295 POLYMER, by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-22); the copolymer of methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, acrylic acid or methyl acrylate,sold under the name MERQUAT 2001 POLYMER OR MERQUAT 2001 N POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-47); the acrylamide / dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymer sold under the name MERQUAT 3330DRY POLYMER or MERQUAT 3330PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3331 PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3940 POLYMER or MERQUAT PLUS 3330 POLYMER OR MERQUAT PLUS 3331 POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-39); an ampholytic terpolymer consisting of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC), acrylamide and acrylic acid, sold under the name MERQUAT 2003PR POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-53); Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-54; Polyquaternium-57; Polyquaternium-63; Polyquaternium-74; Polyquaternium-76; Polyquaternium-86; Polyquaternium-89; Polyquaternium-95; Polyquaternium-98, Polyquaternium-104; Polyquaternium-111; Polyquaternium-112,and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is a synthetic polymer selected from among cationic acrylic polymers, for example, an amorphous functional acrylic polymer grafted onto a polyethylene backbone such as SYNTRAN™ 5330, which is a quaternary-modified olefin grafted technology. More generally, these synthetic polymers are selected from, but not limited to, cationic polymers comprising polyacrylates such as those identified in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9th ed. 2002), such as, for example, polyacrylate-1, polyacrylate-2, polyacrylate-3, polyacrylate-4, polyacrylate-16, polyacrylate-17, polyacrylate-18, polyacrylate-19, polyacrylate-21, and mixtures thereof. Such (co)polymers, or similar (co)polymers,can be combined individually or with other (co)polymers to form suitable bimodal agents having both cationic and anionic functionalities.

[0171] In the various embodiments, the amount of cationic polymer that is not a polymer of natural origin and is selected from synthetic cationic polymers that may be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition may range from about 0.05% to about 2%, or from about 0.05% to about 1%, or from about 0.05% to about 1%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.2%, or any combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.

[0172] Thus, any one of the at least one synthetic cationic polymer, if any, is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, from about 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, to about 2% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0173] In the various embodiments, the amount of each of the at least one cationic polymer, which may be a cationic polymer of natural or synthetic origin, alone or in combination with another cationic polymer, present in the cosmetic cleansing compositions may range from approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%, or from approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, or from approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.5%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.2%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0174] The compositions according to the disclosure contain at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent. In various embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable solvent may be selected from water.

[0175] The cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the disclosure are essentially free of phenoxyethanol.

[0176] In various embodiments, the compositions have a pH of about 4 to about 8. For example, the pH of the compositions can range from about 4.5 to about 7.5, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0177] Acne treatment active ingredient:

[0178] The composition according to the present invention contains at least one acne treatment active ingredient selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid or its derivatives according to formula (I), benzoyl peroxide, tea tree oil, azelaic acid, retinol, retin-a, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl linoleate, alpha-hydroxy acids, and combinations thereof.

[0179] In preferred embodiments, the acne treatment active ingredient is selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, salicylic acid derivatives according to formula (I), and their combinations.

[0180] The salicylic derivatives according to the present invention correspond to the formula (I): O

[0181] in which:

[0182] - the radical R designates a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which may be conjugated; an aromatic ring linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups optionally being substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, selected from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl groups in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0183] - R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester group of formula: — OC-Rj II O

[0184] in which Ri denotes a linear or branched aliphatic chain, saturated or unsaturated, containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0185] as well as their salts derived from an inorganic or organic base.

[0186] Preferably, the radical R in formula (I) designates a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds; wherein said hydrocarbon chains may be substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, selected from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0187] In a preferred embodiment, the radical R in formula (I) designates a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably an alkyl group, containing 2 or more, preferably 3 or more, more preferably 4 or more, even more preferably 5 or more, and in particular 6 or more carbon atoms, and / or 22 or less, preferably 18 or less, even more preferably 14 or less, preferably 12 or less, and in particular 10 carbon atoms or less.

[0188] Preferably, R' in formula (I) is a hydroxyl group or an ester group of formula: — OCR, II O

[0189] in which Ri denotes a radical -(CH2)n-CH3 where n is a number from 0 to 14.

[0190] Salicylic acid derivatives that are most particularly preferred are those according to formula (I) in which the radical R is a C3-Ci0 alkyl group and / or R' designates a hydroxyl.

[0191] Other particularly advantageous compounds are those in which R represents a chain derived from caprylic, linoleic, linolenic or oleic acid.

[0192] Another group of particularly preferred salicylic acid derivatives consists of compounds in which the radical R denotes a C3-CiO alkyl group bearing a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms and R' denotes a hydroxyl.

[0193] Salicylic acid or its derivatives of formula (I) which can be used according to the present invention are described in particular in US patents 6,159,479 and US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, US 4,767,750, EP 378,936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549 and EP-A-570,230.

[0194] Among the particularly preferred salicylic acid derivatives of formula (I) are 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid); 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and their corresponding salts. The derivative in question is preferably 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.

[0195] For the purposes of the present invention, salts of salicylic acid or its derivatives are also considered. Salts derived from inorganic bases include, in particular, those derived from hydroxylated bases of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, for example, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, and ammonia. Salts derived from organic bases include, in particular, those derived from amine or alkanolamine bases.

[0196] (b) Salicylic acid or its derivative(s) may be present in an amount of 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Terms and definitions

[0197] As used herein, the expressions "and their mixtures", "and one of their mixtures", "and their combinations", "and one of their combinations", "or their The phrases "mixtures," "or any mixture thereof," "or combinations thereof," and "or any combination thereof" are used interchangeably to indicate that the list of components immediately preceding the expression, such as "A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof," means that the component(s) may be chosen from A, B, C, D, A + B, A + B + C, A + D, A + C + D, etc., without limitation as to their variations. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof.

[0198] The transitional terms “comprising,” “consisting essentially of,” and “consisting of,” when used in the appended claims, in their original and amended forms, define the scope of the claims with respect to any additional unmentioned elements or steps in the claims, if any, which are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). As used herein, the terms “comprising,” “having,” and “including” (or “comprise,” “have,” and “include”) are used in their open, non-limiting sense. The term “comprising” is intended to be inclusive or broad and does not exclude any additional, unmentioned element, process, step, or material. The expression “consisting of” excludes any element, step, or material other than those specified in the claims and, in the latter case, impurities ordinarily associated with the specified material or materials.The expression "essentially consisting of" limits the scope of a claim to the specified elements, steps, or material(s) and to those that do not materially affect the fundamental and innovative feature(s) of the claimed invention. All the processes and materials described herein that incorporate the present invention can, in alternative embodiments, be defined more specifically by any of the transitional expressions "comprising," "essentially consisting of," and "consisting of."

[0199] For the purposes of this disclosure, it should be noted that, for the sake of brevity, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified with the term "approximately." It is understood that, whether the term "approximately" is used explicitly or implicitly, each quantity given herein is intended to refer to the actual value given, and is also intended to refer to the approximation of that value that would be reasonably deduced by a person skilled in the art, including approximations due to the experimental and / or measurement conditions for that value. All ranges and quantities indicated herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a bound. All figures, quantities, ranges, etc., are intended to be modified by the term "approximately," whether or not it is expressly referred to.Similarly, a given range of "approximately 3% to 7%" is understood to have its 3% and 7% bounds modified by the term "approximately". The term "approximately" is used here to indicate a difference ranging from . up to + / - 10% of the stated value, such as + / - 9%, + / - 8%, + / - 7%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, or + / - 1%. Similarly, all range boundaries are understood to be disclosed individually, such that, for example, a range of 1:2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose a ratio of 1:2 to 2:1.

[0200] The "active substance", as used here in relation to the percentage of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% of the activity of the ingredient or raw material.

[0201] All quantities indicated here are relative to the quantity of active material, unless otherwise stated.

[0202] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions in this disclosure, unless otherwise stated.

[0203] As used herein, the term "surfactants", as well as any specifically identified surfactant, includes salts of surfactants, even if not explicitly stated.

[0204] As used herein, the term "synthetic" refers to a material that is not of natural origin. The term "natural" and the expressions "of natural source" and "of natural origin" refer to a material of natural origin, such as derived from plants, which also cannot be subsequently chemically or physically modified. "Of plant origin" means that the material comes from a plant.

[0205] Unless expressly stated otherwise, no process described herein is intended to be interpreted as requiring that its steps be performed in a specific order. Accordingly, where a process claim does not expressly state an order to be followed by its steps, or where it is not specifically stated in the claims or descriptions that the steps must be limited to a specific order, no particular order is to be inferred therefrom.

[0206] As used herein, the expressions "substantially free" or "essentially free" mean that the specific material may be present in small amounts that do not materially affect the basic and innovative characteristics of the compositions according to the disclosure. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the compositions (provided that an amount less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the basic and innovative characteristics of the compositions according to the disclosure). Similarly, the compositions may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, or less than 0.01%, or no amount of the specified material. Furthermore, all components presented positively in this disclosure may be excluded negatively from the claims, for example, A claimed composition may be "free," "substantially free," or "significantly free" of one or more components that are positively described in this disclosure. The expression "substantially free" or "substantially free," as used herein, may also mean that the specific substance is not added to the composition, but may still be present in a raw material included in the composition. EXAMPLES

[0207] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory only. In the examples, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1 - Examples of coacervate

[0208] In order to demonstrate the coacervate phenomenon according to the disclosure, the following compositions A to D were prepared.

[0209] [Tables2] INCI Name Composition of coacervate ABCD Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine 5% 5% 5% Coco Betaine 5% Rhamnolipid 4% 4% Sophorolipid 4% 4% Chitosan 0.1% 0.1% Polylysine 0.2% 0.1% Water 90.8% 90.9% 90.9% 90.9% pH 6.2 5.2 5.2 4.85 Phase behavior after dilution 1Ox cloudy cloudy cloudy

[0210] Table 2 - Examples of coacervate systems.

[0211] Each of the compositions (A to D) was clear upon initial preparation, as shown in [Fig. 1]. After a 10-fold dilution with water, the compositions appeared cloudy, as shown in [Fig. 2]. Each of the compositions A to D demonstrated the coacervate phenomenon by undergoing the phase transition during dilution with water.

[0212] Example 2 - Coacervate system with Sophorolipid

[0213] In order to demonstrate the coacervate phenomenon using sophorolide, the following compositions (3-7) and comparative compositions (1, 2, 8 and 9) were prepared.

[0214] [Tables3] Sample AB Chitosan Water pH Phase behavior after dilution 2x10x 1 1% 9% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-6.5 Solution not clear 2 2% 8% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-6.5 Solution not clear 3 3% 7% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-6.5 Cloudy / precipitates when diluted 4 4% 6% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-6.5 Cloudy / precipitates when diluted 5 5% 5% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-6.5 Cloudy / precipitates when diluted 6 6% 4% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-6.5 Cloudy / precipitates when diluted 7 7% 3% 0.1 89.9% 4.5-6.5 Cloudy / precipitates when diluted 8 8% 2% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-6.5 No coacervate 9 9% 1% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-6.5 No coacervate

[0215] A = Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine; B = Sophorolipid

[0216] Table 3 - Compositions with cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, sophorolipid and chitosan - Behavior after dilution

[0217] Compositions 1 to 9 were prepared and then diluted 10 times with water. Samples 3 to 7 exhibited the coacervat phenomenon and became cloudy after dilution with water. Samples 1, 2, 8, and 9 did not exhibit coacervat and did not become cloudy after dilution. Samples with sophorolipid concentrations between 3 and 7% and cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine concentrations between 3 and 7% exhibited coacervat.

[0218] Example 3 - Coacervate system with rhamnolipid

[0219] In order to demonstrate that the coacervate phenomenon could be obtained over a range of concentrations, the following compositions containing varying amounts of cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, rhamnolipid and polylysine were prepared.

[0220] [Tables4] Sample % A % C % Polylysine Water pH Phase Behavior 10 1% 9% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-7.5 No coacervate 11 2% 8% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-7.5 No coacervate 12 3% 7% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-7.5 Cloudy / precipitates when diluted 13 4% 6% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-7.5 Cloudy / precipitates when diluted 14 5% 5% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-7.5 Cloudy / precipitates when diluted 15 6% 4% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-7.5 Cloudy / precipitates when diluted 16 7% 3% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-7.5 Cloudy / precipitates when diluted 17 8% 2% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-7.5 Cloudy / precipitates when diluted 18 9% 1% 0.1% 89.9% 4.5-7.5 No coacervate

[0221] A = Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine; C = Rhamnolipid

[0222] Table 4 - Compositions with Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Rhamnolipid and Polylysine - Behavior after dilution

[0223] Compositions 10-18 were prepared and then diluted 10 times with water. Samples 12-17 exhibited the coacervat phenomenon and became cloudy after dilution with water. Samples 10, 11, and 18 did not exhibit coacervat and did not become cloudy after dilution. Samples with rhamnolipid concentrations between 2 and 7% and cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine concentrations between 3 and 8% exhibited coacervat.

[0224] Example 4 - Comparative systems with examples of salicylic acid

[0225] In order to demonstrate the deposition of salicylic acid according to the disclosure, the inventive coacervate composition (19) and the following non-coacervate comparative compositions (20&21) were prepared.

[0226] [Tables5] INCI Name 19 - Inventive Formula 20 - Comparative Formula 21 - Comparative Formula Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine 5% 5% 0% Rhamnolipid 4% 4% 0% Salicylic Acid 2% 2% 2% Polylysine 0.1% 0% Water 88.9% 89% 40% Other Surfactants 50-55% Active Compounds 1-5% Polymers 1-5% Other Solvents 1-5% pH 5.2 5.2 5.3

[0227] Table 5 - Inventive and comparative formulations Example 5 - Salicylic acid deposition

[0228] To demonstrate the salicylic acid deposit remaining after washing, samples 19 to 21 were prepared. 0.2 g of each sample was placed on a substrate and spread evenly over an area of ​​1 inch, as shown in [Fig. 3]. The samples were then rinsed with water and visually examined for salicylic acid residues, as shown in Figures 4 to 6. Ferric chloride was applied to each of the substrates to stain the salicylic acid red so that the levels of deposition could be visually observed.

[0229] The coacervate composition (19) left a visible layer of salicylic acid, as shown in [Fig. 4], indicated by the pink color. The comparative formula 20 did not exhibit a pink color, indicating the absence of salicylic acid deposition, as shown in [Fig. 5]. The comparative formula 21 exhibited a slightly pink color, indicating minimal salicylic acid deposition, as shown in [Fig. 6]. The coacervate composition (19) was darker in color than both comparative formulas, indicating a higher level of salicylic acid deposition.

Claims

Demands

1. A coacervate cleansing system comprising: (a) at least one amphoteric surfactant; (b) at least one glycolipid; (c) at least one cationic polymer at a concentration of 0.05% to 2% by weight; (d) at least one acne treatment active ingredient; (e) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent; wherein the cleansing system is substantially free of phenoxyethanol and wherein the pH of the composition is between 4 and 8, and wherein the weight ratio of a and b is 0.4 to 4, and wherein the total concentration of a and b combined is 10% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate or a mixture thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipid, or a mixture thereof.

4. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one cationic polymer is selected from chitosan, chitosan oligosaccharide, chitin, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose, polylysine, polyomithine, histone, collagen, chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutylamidine, chitosan-thioglycolic acid, or a mixture thereof.

5. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one acne treatment active ingredient is selected from salicylic acid, salicylic acid derivatives, benzoyl peroxide, tea tree oil, azelaic acid, retinol, retin-a, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl linoleate, alpha-hydroxy acids; or a mixture thereof.

6. Composition according to claim 5, wherein at least one acne treatment active ingredient is selected from salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, or a mixture thereof.

7. Composition according to claim 2, wherein at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, coco betaine, or a mixture thereof.

8. Composition according to claim 3, wherein at least one glycolipid is selected from sophorolipid, rhamnolipid, or a mixture thereof.

9. Composition according to claim 4, wherein at least one cationic polymer is selected from chitosan, polylysine, or a mixture thereof.

10. A coacervate cleansing system comprising: (a) at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from the group consisting of cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine and coco betaine at a concentration of 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one glycolipid selected from the group consisting of rhamnolipid and sophorolipid at a concentration of 2% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) at least one cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of chitosan and polylysine at a concentration of 0.1% to 0.2%; (d) at least one acne treatment active ingredient selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid and capryloyl salicylic acid at a concentration of 0.1% to 5%; and (e) water, wherein the cleaning system is essentially free of phenoxyethanol, and wherein the pH of the composition is between 4 and 8, and wherein the weight ratio between a and b is from 0.4 to 4.

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