Ethanol-free emulsion comprising two alkanediols, a surfactant, a fragrance, and a large quantity of water; process for perfuming this emulsion
A microemulsion of pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, and surfactants with minimal C5 alkanol content addresses solubilization and stability issues in perfume compositions, ensuring transparent and non-sticky fragrance delivery on keratinous materials.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024009332
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-09-02
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-06
AI Technical Summary
Existing perfume compositions with reduced or no C1-C5 alkanols, particularly ethanol, face issues with fragrance solubilization, olfactory stability, stickiness, and microbial growth, leading to unsatisfactory transparency and odor persistence on keratinous materials.
A composition comprising pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, surfactants, and perfumes in a microemulsion with a specific mass ratio and minimal C5 alkanol content, ensuring transparency, stable fragrance delivery, and reduced stickiness.
The solution provides transparent, stable, and non-sticky fragrance application on keratinous materials with enhanced odor persistence, addressing the limitations of prior art formulations.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: ETHANOL-FREE EMULSION COMPRISING TWO ALKANEDIOLS, A SURFACTANT, A PERFUME, AND A LARGE QUANTITY OF WATER; PERFUMERY PROCESS USING THIS EMULSION technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition with little or no Cr C5 alkanol, in particular ethanol, in the form of a (micro)emulsion, perfumed comprising at least two different C3-C5 alkandiols: i) pentylene glycol and ii) propylene glycol, iii) at least one surfactant, iv) at least one oil, v) at least one perfumer substance and vi) at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition, it being understood that the mass ratio i) / ii) is strictly less than 1, optionally the mass ratio of ii) / iii) is greater than or equal to 1, and if the perfumer substance(s) is / are also in the form of liquid fat(s) (i.e. oil(s)) then the unperfumed oil iv) may be absent. Previous technique
[0002] The present invention also relates to a method for perfuming human keratinous materials or clothing, which consists of applying to said keratinous materials or clothing a perfumed composition comprising ingredients i) to vi) as defined above and below. More particularly, it relates to a method for perfuming keratinous materials or clothing, preferably for perfuming keratinous materials, by applying to said keratinous materials or clothing one or more perfumed compositions comprising ingredients i) to vi) as defined above.
[0003] Another object is the use of the perfume composition comprising ingredients i) to vi) as defined above and below for perfumer of human keratinous materials or clothing which consists of applying to said keratinous materials or said clothing a perfume composition comprising ingredients i) to vi) as defined above and below.
[0004] It is known that a perfume is a combination of different odorous substances that evaporate at different times. Each perfume has what is called a "top note," which is the odor that is first released when the perfume is applied or when the container is opened; a "heart note" or "middle note," which corresponds to the complete perfume (emitted for a few hours after the "top note"); and a "base note," which is the most persistent odor (emission). for several hours after the "heart note"). The persistence of the base note corresponds to the lingering effect of the fragrance.
[0005] Human beings have always sought to perfume themselves and the objects around them or the places they are in, both to mask strong and / or unpleasant odors and to give a pleasant smell.
[0006] It is common to incorporate perfume into a number of products or compositions, particularly cosmetic and dermatological products such as eau fraîche, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, perfume elixirs or extracts, aftershave lotions, skincare waters, bi-phasic lotions.
[0007] Most fragrance formulas are composed primarily of water, C1-C5 alkanols, particularly ethanol, and fragrance(s). However, consumers of fragrance products are increasingly demanding formulations with little or no C1-C5 alkanols, especially with little or no ethanol.
[0008] C1-C5 alkanols, which are generally volatile, are good solubilizers for fragrance ingredients and have the added advantage of being inexpensive and allowing the formulation of transparent compositions. However, they have the disadvantage of altering the olfactory characteristics of fragrance ingredients, not only because of their strong odor but also because of their ability to react, in the presence of water, with fragrance ingredients and thus modify their odor and / or color. Finally, they have irritant potential and tend to dry out the skin. They can cause stinging when applied to sensitive or damaged skin, particularly after shaving.
[0009] Several attempts have therefore been made to substitute ethanol in perfume compositions with other solvents that do not have the above disadvantages.
[0010] One approach involved replacing C1-C5 alkanols, particularly ethanol, with aqueous compositions containing hydrophilic solubilizers such as polyethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil. The resulting compositions contain significant percentages of these solubilizers, which can be irritating, foaming, and leave a sticky residue on the skin. Another approach involved formulating fragrance compositions in the form of micro- and nano-emulsions. However, the oil phase of these emulsions, containing the fragrance ingredients, is limited in quantity to avoid destabilizing the emulsion, which reduces the fragrance effect of these compositions.
[0011] Aqueous formulations, in which C1-C5 monoalcohols have been removed, often present problems with fragrance solubilization and / or olfactory and / or colonic stability, or even develop microorganisms necessitating the use of preservatives. Furthermore, the use of solubilizers to help The solubilization of the perfume in water very often makes the application sticky on the skin.
[0012] Perfumed microemulsions with little or no ethanol are known. For example, US 2011 / 0177995 (Takasago Int. Co.) describes microemulsions comprising a particular amount of perfume, two nonionic surfactants comprising 4 to 20 and 4 to 12 carbon atoms, a particular amount of (C4-C8)alkandiol, and at least 50% by weight of water. Patent applications US 2018 / 0258370 and WO 2014 / 090959 relate to ethanol-free perfumed microemulsions comprising at least one preservative, at least one surfactant system, a perfume oil, and water. Patent application WO2023 / 081742 also describes ethanol-free perfumed microemulsions comprising a surfactant and water in quantities exceeding 30%, propylene glycol, and pentylene glycol. These documents do not, in particular, describe a specific ratio of pentylene glycol to propylene glycol.
[0013] However, it has become apparent that when equivalent amounts of pentylene glycol and propylene glycol are used, the composition is not always satisfactory, particularly in terms of transparency, odor, and stickiness after application to keratinous materials, especially skin. Indeed, a milky haze may be visually observed in the composition and / or a lack of stability of the formula over time. The penetration time of prior art formulas into keratinous materials can be long. The odor may also be less close to the original perfumed raw material. It is also regrettable that a sticky sensation after application to keratinous materials is very present, even after one or more minutes.Therefore, there remains a need to make available transparent aqueous perfume formulations with little or no C1-C5 alkanol which, after application, deliver a scent close to the original raw material, which easily penetrates keratinous materials, particularly the skin, and which is less sticky after application and drying.
[0014] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that this objective can be achieved with a composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of a (micro)emulsion, preferably transparent, comprising: i. pentylene glycol; ii. propylene glycol; iii. one or more surfactant(s); iv. one or more liquid fats at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (or oil(s); v. one or more perfumer(s); and vi. at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition;
[0015] it being understood that: - the mass quantity of alkanol in C5-Alkanol is less than or equal to 3%, particularly less than or equal to 2%, more particularly less than or equal to 1%, preferably less than or equal to 0.5%, more preferably less than or equal to 0.1%, relative to the total weight of the composition, or better yet, free of C5-Alkanol; - the mass ratio i) / ii) is less than 1, preferably less than or equal to 0.5; - preferably the mass ratio of ii) / iii) is greater than or equal to 1, more preferably inclusively between 1.0 and 1.5, even more preferably between 1.01 and 1.20, better between 1.05 and 1.10; and - if the perfumer substance(s) is / are in oil form then iv) may be absent.
[0016] The present invention also relates to a method of perfumer of human keratinous materials or of a garment which consists of applying to said keratinous materials or said garment the perfumer composition as defined above.
[0017] Unless otherwise stated in what follows, the following definitions apply:
[0018] By “perfuming substance” is meant any perfume or aroma capable of giving off a pleasant odor.
[0019] The term "keratinous materials" refers, according to the invention, to the skin of the body, nails, hair, scalp and / or scalp hair, or any other cutaneous area of the body. More specifically, the keratinous materials according to the invention are the scalp, scalp hair and / or skin.
[0020] By "skin" we mean the entire skin of the body, and preferably of the décolletage, neck, arms and forearms.
[0021] All compositions according to the present invention are cosmetic compositions. For the purposes of this invention, "cosmetic" means a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, and hair.
[0022] A cosmetically acceptable medium is understood to be a non-toxic medium that can be applied to the skin (including the inside of the eyelids), lips, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows, scalp, hair and mucous membranes.
[0023] By "Cj-C5 alkanol" is meant any compound having a linear or branched alkyl chain saturated with 1 to 5 carbon atoms comprising a single hydroxyl (OH) function and in particular selected from methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, and t-butanol, preferably methanol and ethanol.
[0024] By "(micro)emulsion" means an emulsion or microemulsion, preferably a microemulsion, of the O / W (oil in water) type, of the W / O (water in oil) type, or of the O / W / O (oil in water in oil) type, preferably of the O / W type.
[0025] By “microemulsion” we mean a thermodynamically stable emulsion whose (average) diameter of particles (or micelles) is less than or equal to 300 nm, preferably less than or equal to 200 nm, particularly between 1 nm and 300 nm, more particularly between 10 nm and 250 nm, better between 50 nm and 200 nm, even better between 100 nm and 150 nm.
[0026] For the purposes of this invention, "clareous" means that the composition allows light to pass through and that objects behind it appear clearly. In particular, it is transparent.
[0027] By "transparent" is meant that the composition can be characterized using a conventional commercial test tube made of transparent, uncolored glass, borosilicate, soda-lime, or neutral glass such as Pyrex® or Duran® material glass, 16 cm high and 1.6 cm in diameter, which is filled to a point 14 cm from the top of said tube (the bottom of the meniscus of the composition in the tube is located 14 cm from the bottom of the tube). A page of the published international application (in A4 format) is placed behind it at a distance of 1 cm; and by placing one's eyes at a distance (reading focal length from the test tube) of between 20 cm and 40 cm, such as 30 cm, and perpendicular to the middle of the composition of said tube (approximately 7 cm from the bottom of said tube), one assesses whether one can clearly read, in particular the first page, through the composition in said tube.It is understood that the tester has normal vision, or that they wear glasses, contact lenses, or any other optical devices they normally use for reading. For example, one can use request WO 2018 / 104428 and assess clarity, i.e., be able to read all 31 lines on page 13 to perform the test, or better yet, perform the reading test on the first page.
[0028] The transparency of the composition can also be characterized by measuring its transmittance. In the context of the present invention, transmittance measurements are carried out at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1 atm) with a UV-Visible spectrophotometer, CARY Type 100 scan.
[0029] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for application on keratinous materials, in particular topical application on the skin, and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin and keratinous fibers such as hair.
[0030] Preferably, this is a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel after application to keratinous materials, particularly human, especially skin, or keratinous fibers such as hair.
[0031] A "(Cx-Cz)alkyl" group, or "CxCz alkyl," represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising x to z carbon atoms. For example, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0032] A "(C XC z ) alkylene" group or "C XC z alkylene" is a divalent group derived from a (Cx-Cz)alkyl group.
[0033] The expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more".
[0034] The expressions "between ... and ...", "includes from ... to ...", "made up of ... to ...", and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.
[0035] Other features, variations, and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow. The composition
[0036] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion.
[0037] The composition preferably comprises less than 3% by weight of CrC5 alkanol (in particular ethanol) relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly less than 2% by weight of Ci-C5 alkanol (in particular ethanol), more particularly less than 1% by weight of Ci-C5 alkanol (in particular ethanol), even more particularly less than 0.5% by weight of Ci-C5 alkanol (in particular ethanol) and preferably less than 0.1% by weight of Ci-C5 alkanol (in particular ethanol), and more preferably the composition of the invention is free of Ci-C5 alkanol (in particular ethanol).
[0038] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is either in the form of a direct emulsion, i.e. of the water-in-oil (W / O) or "oil-in-water (O / W)" type, or in the form of an inverse emulsion, i.e. of the water-in-oil (W / O) or "water-in-oil (W / O)" type, or in the form of a multiple oil-in-water-in-oil (W / O / O) emulsion.
[0039] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is in direct microemulsion, i.e. of the water-in-oil (W / O) or "oil-in-water (O / W)" type.
[0040] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition is in inverse microemulsion, i.e. of the water-in-oil (W / O) type.
[0041] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is in the form of a multiple oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) microemulsion.
[0042] Preferably the composition of the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) type microemulsion.
[0043] Particularly the (micro)emulsion contains particles (or micelles) of (average) diameter less than or equal to 300 nm, preferably less than or equal to 200 nm, particularly between 1 nm and 300 nm, more particularly between 10 nm and 250 nm, better between 50 nm and 200 nm, even better between 100 nm and 150 nm.
[0044] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention is a micellar water.
[0045] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is clear, of transparent preference.
[0046] The composition also comprises i) pentylene glycol and ii) propylene glycol with a mass ratio of pentylene glycol i) / propylene glycol ii) strictly less than 1, preferably less than or equal to 0.5, more preferably less than or equal to 0.45.
[0047] According to a particular embodiment the mass ratio in i) / ii) is between 0.1 and 0.5, preferably between 0.2 and 0.45, more preferably between 0.3 and 0.4 such that 0.4+ / -0.05.
[0048] In particular, the composition also comprises ii) propylene glycol and iii) one or more surfactant(s) with a mass ratio of propylene glycol ii) / surfactant(s) iii) greater than or equal to 1, preferably inclusively between 1.0 and 1.5, more preferably between 1.01 and 1.20, even more preferably between 1.05 and 1.10.
[0049] Preferably the quantity of i) pentylene glycol is less than 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly between 5 and 9% by weight such as 7.5% + / - 0.5%.
[0050] Preferably the amount of ii) propylene glycol is greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly between 15 and 30% by weight, such as 19.5 + / -1%.
[0051] The composition also includes iii) one or more surfactants, preferably non-ionic.
[0052] The surfactant(s) may be non-ionic, anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or amphoteric, preferably the surfactant(s) is / are non-ionic.
[0053] Among the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention, we can mention, alone or in mixtures, a) fatty alcohols, b) alpha-diols, c) alkylphenols, these 3 types of compounds a) to c) being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and having a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular comprising 10 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 2 to 200, in particular from 10 to 100 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 2 to 200, in particular from 10 to 100.Other examples include ethylene oxide (EO) and propylene oxide (PO) copolymers, ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 2 to 30 moles EO, polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having 2 to 200 moles EO, in particular 3 to 100 EO; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as alkyl (CiO-Ci4)amine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0054] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) is / are chosen from: (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols; glycerolized fatty alcohols; alkyl polyglycosides; preferably oxyethylenated mono- and diesters of sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 200 moles OE, in particular from 3 to 100 OE.
[0055] More preferably the surfactants are chosen from a) oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid mono- and diesters having 2 to 100 moles OE, in particular 3 to 50 OE such as propylene glycol stearate having 10 to 30 OE such as 20 OE; b) glyceryl mono distearate / polyethylene glycol stearate (100 OE), preferably C6-C3o fatty acid glyceryl monoester.
[0056] Preferably the composition of the invention comprises only one type of surfactant iii), preferably non-ionic.
[0057] Preferably the surfactant(s) iii) is / are chosen from b) and in particular of formula: Ra-C(O)-O-[CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O]p-H(I)
[0058] Formula (I) wherein: - Ra represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, and comprising from 7 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly 8 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably between 9 and 12 carbon atoms; and - p represents an integer between 2 and 10 inclusive, preferably between 3 and 6, such as 4.
[0059] Particularly the surfactant(s) iii) is / are of formula (I) and more particularly selected from the Polyglyceryl 2 to 10 fatty acid ester, preferably in C8-C24, such as polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Polyglyceryl 2 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 myristate, and Polyglyceryl 4 caprate, more preferably Polyglyceryl 4 caprate.
[0060] Preferably the composition comprises only one surfactant which has formula (I) as defined above, more particularly Polyglyceryl 4 caprate.
[0061] As regards alkyl polyglycosides, these compounds are well known and can be more particularly represented by the following general formula (II): RlO-(R2O)t (G)v (II)
[0062] Formula (II) wherein:
[0063] - R 1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, preferably saturated, comprising about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 8 to 24 carbon atoms;
[0064] - R 2 represents an alkylene radical comprising approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0065] - G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0066] -1 denotes an integer between 0 and 10 inclusive, preferably between 0 and 4, preferably between 0 and 4; and
[0067] - v denotes an integer between 1 and 15 inclusive.
[0068] Preferred alkylpolyglycosides according to the present invention are compounds of formula (II) in which R1 more particularly designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t designates a value from 0 to 3 and more particularly equal to 0, and G may designate glucose, fructose, or galactose, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, i.e., the value of v in formula (II), may range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2 and even more preferably from 1.1 to 1.5.
[0069] The glycosidic bonds between the sugar motifs are of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably 1-4.
[0070] Compounds of formula (II) are notably represented by the products sold by COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000). Products sold by SEPPIC under the names TRITON CG 110 (or ORAMIX CG 110) and TRITON CG 312 (or ORAMIX® NS 10), products sold by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or those sold by CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK may also be used.
[0071] One can also use, for example, the C8 / Ci6 Alkyl polyglucoside 1.4 in aqueous solution at 53% marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.
[0072] As regards mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants, they preferably comprise on average from 1 to 40 glycerol groups, more particularly from 10 to 30 glycerol groups such as 20.
[0073] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the surfactants are monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated and are preferably chosen from the compounds of the following formulas (Ilia) to (IIIc): R3O[CH2CH(CH2OH)O]mH (Ilia),
[0074] R3 O[CH 2 CH(OH)CH 2 O] m H (Illb) or R3O[CH(CH2OH)CH2O]mH (IIIc);
[0075] Formulas (Ilia) to (IIIc) in which:
[0076] - R 3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0077] - m is a number between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10, plus particularly from 1.5 to 6;
[0078] it being understood that R 3 can be substituted, and / or interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, or groups chosen from hydroxy, amide and ester.
[0079] R3 preferably represents an alkyl and / or alkenyl group in CiO-C2O, possibly mono or polyhydroxylated, more particularly R3 represents an alkyl group in CiO-C24 such as myristyle, or lauryl.
[0080] Preferably the composition of the invention comprises one or more fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols suitable for implementing the invention, more particularly chosen from alcohols comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0081] Fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols more particularly have one or more hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0082] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohol(s) preferably have the following formula: Ra-[O-CH2-CH2]n-OH (IV)
[0083] Formula (IV) with
[0084] - R a representing a linear or branched Ci-C40 alkyl group, or linear alkenyl or branched at C2-C30 (preferably alkyl at C8-C30); and
[0085] - n represents an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferably between 2 and 100, more particularly inclusively between 10 and 50, even more particularly inclusively between 15 and 30 such as 100 or 20.
[0086] Fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms and oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (1 to 100 EO). Among them, the following may be mentioned in particular: lauryl alcohol 20 EO, lauryl alcohol 30 EO, decyl alcohol 3 EO, decyl alcohol 5 EO and oleyl alcohol 20 EO.
[0087] Mixtures of these (poly)oxyethylenated fatty alcohols can also be used.
[0088] Among the surfactants iii) the surfactant(s) iii) is / are preferred chosen from b) and in particular from formula (I) as defined above;
[0089] particularly selected from among the Polyglyceryl 2 to 10 fatty acid esters preferably in C8-C24, such as polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, and polyglyceryl-4 caprate, more preferably polyglyceryl-4 caprate.
[0090] The quantity of surfactants iii) preferably ranges from 0.5% to 40% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 5% to 25% by weight, better between 10% and 20% relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
[0091] Particularly the mass ratio of pentylene glycol i) / surfactant(s) iii) is strictly less than 1, more particularly less than or equal to 0.5, preferably less than or equal to 0.45.
[0092] More particularly, the mass ratio of pentylene glycol i) / surfactant(s) iii) is greater than or equal to 0.2, more preferably greater than 0.2. Preferably the mass ratio of pentylene glycol i) / surfactant(s) iii) is between 0.21 and 0.43.
[0093] The composition of the invention further contains one or more liquid fats at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg: i.e., 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), also referred to as oil. Preferably, the oil is a perfumed oil.
[0094] According to one embodiment, the oil(s) is / are optionally associated with one or more non-liquid fat(s).
[0095] Preferably the fatty substance(s) liquid(s) iv) is / are selected from the following oils: monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, more particularly from ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and C10-C22 alkyl (iso)stearates, preferably Ci2-C20 such as isopropyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, and cetearyl isononanoate, more preferentially chosen from isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0096] According to a particular embodiment, the fat(s) iv) included in the composition according to the present invention is / are present in the composition in an amount varying from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more particularly in an amount varying from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and preferably in an amount varying from 0.1% to 5%.
[0097] The composition further comprises (v) one or more perfumer substances.
[0098] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.01% by weight of perfumer substance(s), more particularly at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0099] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 10% by weight, in particular less than 7% by weight, more particularly less than 5% by weight, or is free of perfumer substance(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0100] Perfume substances are compositions containing, in particular, the raw materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, NJ, 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, NJ, 1960) and in "Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991", Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, 111.
[0101] The composition according to the invention includes in particular at least one perfumer substance selected from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
[0102] These may be natural products, such as essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes, and / or synthetic products, such as terpenic or sesquiterpenic hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles, peroxides, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic.
[0103] According to the definition given in the international standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is an odorous product, generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation, dry distillation, or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process that does not result in a significant change in composition.
[0104] The choice of method for obtaining essential oils depends primarily on the raw material: its original state and characteristics, its very nature. The "essential oil / plant raw material" yield can be extremely The concentration varies depending on the plant: from 15 ppm to over 20%. This choice determines the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, color, solubility, volatility, and enrichment or depletion of certain constituents.
[0105] Steam distillation is the vaporization of a substance that is only slightly miscible with water in the presence of steam. The raw material is placed in a still with boiling water or steam. The steam carries the essential oil vapor, which is condensed in the condenser and collected in liquid form in a Florentine flask (or essential oil separator) where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The aqueous distillate remaining after steam distillation, once the essential oil has been separated, is called "aromatic water," "hydrosol," or "floral distillate."
[0106] Dry distillation involves obtaining the essential oil by distilling woods, barks, or roots, without the addition of water or steam, in a closed container designed so that the liquid is collected at the bottom. Cade oil is the best-known example of this method of extraction.
[0107] The cold-pressing method is applicable only to citrus fruits (Citrus spp.) by mechanical processes at ambient temperature. The principle of the method is as follows: the peels are shredded and the contents of the ruptured secretory sacs are recovered by a physical process. The conventional method consists of applying an abrasive action to the entire surface of the fruit under a stream of water. After the removal of solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial installations actually allow for the simultaneous or sequential recovery of fruit juice and essential oil.
[0108] Essential oils are generally volatile and liquid at room temperature, which distinguishes them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most of them deflect polarized light. They are lipophilic and soluble in common organic solvents, steam-distillable, and very slightly soluble in water.
[0109] Among the essential oils usable according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families: Abietaceae or Pinaceae, for example conifers; Amaryllidaceae; Anacardiaceae; Annonaceae, for example ylang-ylang; Apiaceae, for example umbellifers, in particular dill, angelica, coriander, sea fennel, carrot or parsley; Araceae; Aristolochiaceae; Asteraceae, for example yarrow, mugwort, chamomile, and helichrysum; Betulaceae; Brassicaceae; Burseraceae, for example frankincense; Caryophyllaceae; Canellaceae; Caesalpiniaceae, for example copaifera (copahu); Chenopodiaceae; Cistaceae, for example rockrose; Cyperaceae; Dipterocarpaceae; Ericaceae, for example, wintergreen; Euphorbiaceae; Fabaceae; Geraniaceae, for example, geranium; Guttiferae; Hamamelidaceae; Hemandiaceae; Hypericaceae, for example, St. John's wort; Iridaceae; Juglandaceae; Lamiaceae, for example, thyme, oregano, bee balm, savory, basil, marjoram, mints, patchouli, lavender, sage, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, lemon balm; Lauraaceae, for example, ravensara, bay, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea; Liliaceae, for example, garlic; Magnoliaceae, for example, magnolia; Malvaceae; Meliaceae; Monimiaceae; Moraceae, for example, hemp or hops; Myricaceae; Mysristicaceae, for example nutmeg; Myrtaceae, for example eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backousia, clove, myrtle; Oleaceae; Piperaceae, for example pepper; Pittosporaceae; Poaceae, for example lemongrass, vetiver; Polygonaceae;Ranunculaceae; Rosaceae, for example roses; Rubiaceae; Rutaceae, for example all citrus fruits; Salicaceae; Santalaceae, for example sandalwood; Saxifragaceae; Schisandraceae; Styracaceae, for example benzoin; Thymelaceae, for example agarwood; Tilliaceae; Valerianaceae, for example valerian, spikenard; Verbenaceae, for example lantana, verbena; Violaceae; Zingiberaceae, for example galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger; Zygophyllaceae.
[0110] We can also mention essential oils extracted from flowers (ylang-ylang, neroli), stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petitgrain), fruits (coriander, anise, cumin, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, calamus, ginger), woods (pine wood, sandalwood, guaiac, rose cedar, camphor), herbs and grasses (tarragon, rosemary, basil, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, frankincense, opopanax).
[0111] Examples of perfumer substances include: geraniol, geranyl acetate, famesol, borneol, bomyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinalool, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, amyl salicylate, dimethylbenzylcarbinol, trichloromethylphenylcarbinyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, isononyl acetate, vetiveryl acetate, vetiverol, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2-methyl-3-(p-isopropylphenyl)propanal, 2,4-Dimethylcyclohex-3-enyl-carboxaldehyde, tricyclodecenyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionate, 4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyltetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl-2-pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-4-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, menthone, carvone, tagetone, geranyl acetone, n-decanal, n-dodecanal, 9-decenol-1, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal, phenylacetaldehyde diethylacetal, geranonitrile, citronellonitrile, cedryl acetate, the 3-Isocamphycyclohexanol, cedryl methyl ether, isolongifolanone, aubepinonitrile, hawthorn, heliotropin, coumarin, eugenol, vanillin, diphenyl oxide, citral, citronellal, hydroxycitronellal, damascone, ionones, methylionones, isomethylionones, solanone, irones, cis-3-hexenol and its esters, macrocyclic ketones, ethylene brassylate and mixtures thereof.
[0112] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of different perfumer substances is used which together produce a pleasant note for the user.
[0113] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of perfumer substances, in particular of at least two distinct perfumer substances, and preferably of at least three distinct perfumer substances.
[0114] Perfume substances will preferably be chosen so that they produce notes (top, middle and base) in the following families: citrus, aromatic, floral notes in particular pink and white flowers, spicy, woody, gourmand, chypre, fougère, and leathery.
[0115] According to a particular embodiment, the perfumer substance(s) used in a composition according to the invention is / are distinct from the essential oils.
[0116] Preferably, a composition according to the invention uses one or more natural perfumer substances, preferably producing notes in the following families: floral notes in particular pink flowers and white flowers, gourmand notes, and their mixtures.
[0117] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention uses one or more perfumer substances belonging to the floral, green, citrus, ozonic, marine, aldehyde, musky, powdery, soft woody, fruity, aromatic, gourmand, amber olfactory families.
[0118] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention uses one or more perfumer substances belonging to the edible, spicy, leathery and possibly fruity, balsamic and aromatic olfactory families.
[0119] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises iv) one or more oil(s) and v) one or more perfumer(s).
[0120] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more (v) perfumer substance(s) which are in the form of oil, in which case the composition may comprise an oil (iv) different from (v), or the composition may not comprise another oil (iv) different from (v).
[0121] Preferably the composition comprises one or more v) perfumer substance(s) which is in the form of oil and does not comprise any other v) unperfumed oil.
[0122] The composition of the invention further comprises (vi) water in a mass (or weight) quantity greater than or equal to 30%, preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the quantity of water is between 30% and 60% by weight, more preferably between 40% and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The water may be from natural sources or be distilled.
[0123] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises vii) one or more organic polyol(s) different from i) and ii). In particular, the organic polyol(s) vii) is / are selected from (C2-C6)alkanetriols such as glycerin.
[0124] The composition according to the invention has a pH preferably between 3 and 8, and preferably between 4 and 7, more preferably between 4.5 and 6 such as 4.9 + / - 0.3. This pH can be adjusted using one or more viii) pH adjusting compound(s), in particular acidifying agent(s) and alkalizing agent(s), classically used in the cosmetic field.
[0125] Examples of pH adjusters include mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, and organic acids such as (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarboxylic acids like acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and (Ci-C6)alkylsulfonic acids. Examples of alkalizing agents include ammonia, (bi)carbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, and triethanolamines and their derivatives, and hydroxides of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium or potassium hydroxides.
[0126] These pH adjusters may be present in an amount between 0.01% and 1%, in particular between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in order to obtain an acceptable pH. Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises one or more pH adjuster(s) (viii) selected from the acids (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, preferably citric acid.
[0127] The composition of the invention may further comprise one or more additive(s) ix) i.e., ingredients other than those defined above in i) to viii), including polymers, cationic, anionic, zwitterionic, or neutral thickeners, whether associative or not; sequestering agents such as alkali or alkaline earth metal salts of glutamate diacetate (tetrasodium glutamate diacetate); antioxidants; preservatives such as alkali or alkaline earth salt benzoates (sodium benzoate); cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, particularly natural ones; UV filters; fruit extracts; and humectants. When present in the composition of the invention, these additives may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 10%, and preferably from 0.01 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Pharmaceutical forms of the composition
[0128] The perfume composition according to the invention may be in the form of a lotion, oil or anhydrous gel. It may constitute a perfume composition, a skincare composition, a treatment composition for keratinous materials, and in particular may be in the form of eau fraîche, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, aftershave lotion, skincare water, skincare oil such as a body oil, a sun oil, deodorants (sticks, roll-ons).
[0129] The composition of the invention can be packaged in a bottle, in a jar, in a tube, in roll-on form, as a hot water bottle or as wipes.
[0130] The perfume composition of the invention can be diffused by various systems such as sprays, aerosols, piezoelectric devices.
[0131] The perfume composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the field of perfume formulations.
[0132] The fragrance compositions according to the invention can also be applied in the form of fine particles by means of pressurization devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers," aerosol containers comprising a propellant, and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. The latter are described in US patents 4,077,441 and 4,850,517 (which form an integral part of the content of the description).
[0133] Aerosol compositions according to the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane. The perfumery process
[0134] Another object of the invention is a method for perfuming human keratinous materials or clothing, which consists of applying to said keratinous materials or clothing a perfumed composition comprising ingredients i) to vi) as defined above. More particularly, the method of the invention is a method for perfuming keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous materials such as skin or human keratinous fibers such as hair, by applying to said materials the perfumed composition comprising ingredients i) to vi) as defined above.
[0135] The invention will now be described with reference to the following illustrative and non-limiting examples. In these examples, unless otherwise indicated, quantities are expressed as weight percentages. EXAMPLES
[0136] Comparative stability and olfactory perception tests are carried out vs. comparator WO2023 / 081742:
[0137] [Tables 1] Ingredients Example 1 (Invention) In g per 100 g of active ingredient (AI) Example A (Comparative) In g per 100 g of AI Pentylene glycol i) 7.5 7.5 Propylene glycol ii) 19.55 7.5 Polyglyceryl-4 caprate iii) 18 18 Weight ratio i) / ii) 0.38 1 Perfume v) + oil iv)* = perfumed oil 4.7 4.7 Glycerin vii) 3 3 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate ix) 0.12 0.12 Preservative sodium benzoate ix) 0.14 0.14 Hydroglycolic extract of bitter orange in vegetable propylene glycol 0.001 0.001 Citric acid viii) Qsp pH between 4 and 6 Qsp pH between 4 and 6 Water vi) Qsp 100 qsp 100
[0138] It appears that the composition according to invention 1 is transparent and stable over time, even after several days. Furthermore, the fragrance is very pleasant, its olfactory perception is linear, and it persists over time, even after application for several hours (8 hours). This is not the case for the comparative composition A in terms of transparency, odor, and stickiness after application to keratinous materials, particularly skin. Indeed, a milky veil is observed visually, more opaque than the transparent emulsion of Example 1.
[0139] Furthermore, when the comparative composition of Example A is applied to keratinous materials, particularly the skin, a "lathering" effect is observed. When the same quantity of the composition of Example 1 is applied to the skin, no lathering effect is noted.
[0140] In addition, the composition of example A needs to be massaged significantly longer to penetrate the keratinous materials, particularly the skin, when the same quantity of composition of example 1 is applied, see table 2 below.
[0141] [Tables2] Formula Number of sprays (70pl) Massage time in seconds Example 1 2 13.35 Example A 2 19.64 Example 1 6 22.34 Example A 6 42.74
[0142] Finally, it was noted that the composition of Example A, after application to the skin and drying, gives a significantly stickier effect than the composition of Example 1 according to the invention. Furthermore, the sticky effect lasts longer for the composition of Example A than for the composition of Example 1.
[0143] On the olfactory side, the rendering of the composition of example A after application on keratinous materials, particularly the skin, is different (slightly smoky at first, far removed from the initial perfume) whereas that from the composition example 1 is closer to the initial perfume (close to the initial perfume without noticing a smoky smell).
Claims
Demands
1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, in the form of a (micro)emulsion comprising: i. pentylene glycol; ii. propylene glycol; iii. one or more surfactant(s); iv. one or more liquid fats at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure; v. one or more perfumer(s); and vi. at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition; it being understood that: - the mass quantity of Ci-C5 alkanol is less than or equal to 3%, - the mass ratio i) / ii) is less than 1; and - if the perfumer(s) is / are also in the form of a liquid fat then iv) may be absent.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (micro)emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water microemulsion.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition is in the form of a (micro)emulsion having an average diameter of particles or micelles less than or equal to 300 nm, preferably less than or equal to 100 nm, more particularly less than or equal to 50 nm, better less than or equal to 40 nm, even better less than or equal to 30 nm; more particularly the particles or micelles have an average diameter between 1 and 300 nm, more particularly between 2 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 60 nm, more preferably between 4 and 40 nm, more preferably between 5 and 30 nm, even more preferably between 10 and 20 nm.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in the form of micellar water.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims which is clear, preferably transparent.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising less than 3% by weight of C5-alkanol, in particular ethanol, relative to the total weight of composition, particularly less than 2% by weight of C5-alkanol, in particular ethanol, more particularly less than 1% by weight of C5-alkanol, in particular ethanol, even more particularly less than 0.5% by weight of C5-alkanol, in particular ethanol, and preferably less than 0.1% by weight of C5-alkanol, in particular ethanol, and more preferably the composition of the invention is free of C5-alkanol, in particular ethanol.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein: - the mass ratio of pentylene glycol i) / propylene glycol ii) is less than or equal to 0.5, preferably less than or equal to 0.45, more particularly between 0.1 and 0.5, preferably between 0.2 and 0.45, more preferably between 0.3 and 0.4 such that 0.4+ / -0.05; and / or - the mass ratio of pentylene glycol i) / surfactant(s) iii) is less than or equal to 0.5, preferably less than or equal to 0.45, and preferably greater than or equal to 0.2, particularly between 0.21 and 0.
43.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the mass ratio of propylene glycol ii) / surfactant(s) iii) is greater than or equal to 1, preferably inclusively between 1.0 and 1.5, preferably between 1.01 and 1.20, more preferably between 1.05 and 1.
10.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of i) pentylene glycol is less than 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly between 5 and 9% by weight such as 7.5% + / - 0.5%.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of ii) propylene glycol is greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly between 15 and 30% by weight, such as 19.5 + / - 1%.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein iii) the surfactant(s) is / are non-ionic, preferably selected from, alone or in mixture(s), a) fatty alcohols, b) alpha-diols, c) alkylphenols, these 3 types of compounds a) to c) being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, and having a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular comprising 10 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being in particular from 2 to 200, in particular from 10 to 100 and the number of glycerol groups being in particular from 2 to 200, in particular from 10 to 100; ethylene oxide (EO) and propylene oxide (PO) copolymers, ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols;polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 2 to 30 moles EO, polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having 2 to 200 moles EO, in particular 3 to 100 EO; sucrose fatty acid esters; polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as alkyl (Ci0-Ci4)amine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; more preferably the surfactants are chosen from a) the mono and diesters of oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 100 moles OE, in particular from 3 to 50 OE such as propylene glycol stearate having from 10 to 30 OE such as 20 OE; b) the glyceryl mono distearate / polyethylene glycol stearate (100 OE), preferably the glyceryl monoester of fatty acids in C6-C3o.;
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the surfactant(s) iii) is / are selected from b) and in particular of the formula: Ra-C(O)-O-[CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O]pH(I) Formula (I) wherein: - R represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, and comprising from 7 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly 8 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably between 9 and 12 carbon atoms; and - p represents an integer between 2 and 10 inclusive, preferably between 3 and 6, such as 4; particularly the surfactant(s) iii) is / are chosen from the Polyglyceryl 2 to 10 fatty acid ester, preferably C8-C24, such as polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl 2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, and polyglyceryl 4 caprate, more preferably polyglyceryl 4 caprate.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the quantity of surfactants iii) ranges from 0.5% to 40% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 5% to 25% by weight, better between 10% and 20% relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
14. Composition according to any of the preceding claims comprising one or more (v) perfume substance(s) which is / are in the form of oil, in which case the composition may comprise an oil (iv) different from (v), or the composition may not comprise another oil (iv) different from (v), preferably the composition comprises one or more (v) perfume substance(s) which is / are in the form of oil and does not comprise another (v) unperfumed oil.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the mass amount of water vi) is greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably the amount of water is between 30% and 60% by weight, more preferably between 40% and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising further includes vii) one or more organic polyol(s) different from i) and ii); particularly the organic polyol(s) vii) is / are selected from (C2-C6)alkanetriols such as glycerin.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims having a pH between 3 and 8, preferably between 4 and 7, more preferably between 4.5 and 6 such that 4.9 + / - 0.
3.
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more pH adjuster(s) (viii), particularly selected from:
19. - mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, - organic acids such as (poly)(hydroxy)(C1-C6)alkylcarboxylic acids like acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, (C1-C6)alkylsulfonic acids, and - alkalizing agents such as ammonia, (bi)carbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, hydroxides of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium or potassium hydroxides; preferably the composition includes one or more pH adjuster(s) viii) selected from (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, preferably citric acid. A method for perfumer of keratin materials or of a garment, preferably for perfumer of keratin materials, by applying to said keratin materials or said garment one or more perfumer composition(s) as defined in any one of the preceding claims.
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