OIL DISPERSION COMPOSITION COMPRISING A BIOPOLYMER COMPLEX

Abstract

OIL DISPERSION COMPOSITION COMPRISING A BIOPOLYMER COMPLEX The present invention relates to a dispersion composition comprising a continuous oil phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oil phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises: at least one biopolymer; at least one acid having four or more acid groups; and at least one lipophobic agent. The composition according to the present invention is well suited to various industries, such as cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and coating applications. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: OIL DISPERSION COMPOSITION COMPRISING A BIOPOLYMER COMPLEX technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to an oil dispersion composition comprising at least one biopolymer complex, in particular an oil dispersion composition comprising at least one biopolymer complex for cosmetic use. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing and using this same composition in cosmetic applications. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental considerations in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes, and ingredients to meet these environmental concerns.

[0003] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin, and more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0004] In recent years, biopolymer complex particles with various functions have been developed. For example, document WO 2021 / 249974 discloses a cross-linked polysaccharide particle comprising an amount of fucoidan and loaded by adsorption with an amount of a tissue-type plasminogen activator. In this invention, cross-linked polysaccharide particles were obtained and dispersed in an oily phase.

[0005] However, there is still a need to provide stable dispersion compositions in which a water-soluble natural polymer is dispersed in an oily phase at a high concentration. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0006] An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable dispersion composition comprising biopolymer complex particles dispersed in an oily phase at a high concentration.

[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a dispersion composition comprising a continuous oily phase and a plurality of complexes of biopolymer dispersed in the oily phase, in which the biopolymer complex comprises: a. at least one biopolymer; b. at least one acid having four or more acid groups; and c. at least one lipophobe.

[0008] The (a) biopolymer can be selected from polyamino acids, cationic polysaccharides and anionic polysaccharides.

[0009] The (a) biopolymer can be selected from polylysine, collagen, gelatin, chitosan, xanthan gum and hyaluronic acid and their salts, and combinations thereof.

[0010] The (b) acid having four or more acid groups can be chosen from phosphoric acids and carboxylic acids, preferably phosphoric acids.

[0011] The (b) acid having four or more acid groups can be chosen from inositol pentakisphosphate, phytic acid, and one of their combinations.

[0012] The (c) lipophobe can be selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, lower C2-C4 polyols, sugar alcohols, inorganic salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0013] The amount of (a) biopolymer can be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.075% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The amount of (b) acid having four or more acid groups can be in an amount of 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, preferably 0.002% to 0.1% by weight, and more preferably 0.003% to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The quantity of (c) lipophobe can be in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] Biopolymer complexes are in the form of hydrogel particles or in the form of xerogel particles.

[0017] The composition is a cosmetic composition, in particular a topical cosmetic composition for the care and / or revitalization of keratinous material, such as skin.

[0018] The composition is a pharmaceutical composition, in particular a pharmaceutical composition for the delivery of medicines, a coating composition or an ink composition.

[0019] The present invention also relates to a process for preparing the dispersion composition according to the present invention, comprising the steps of:

[0020] (i) preparation of an oily phase and an aqueous phase separately, in which The aqueous phase includes:

[0021] (a) at least one biopolymer;

[0022] (b) at least one acid having four or more acid groups; and

[0023] (c) at least one lipophobe,

[0024] (ii) mixing the aqueous phase and the oily phase to obtain a mixture, and

[0025] (iii) emulsifying the mixture to obtain a dispersion composition including a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phases.

[0026] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or revitalization of a keratinous material, such as skin, comprising the application to the keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention. Best embodiment of the invention

[0027] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that biopolymer complex particles comprising (a) at least one biopolymer; (b) at least one acid having four or more acid groups; and (c) at least one lipophobe, can be stably dispersed in an oily phase and can thus provide stable formulations comprising biopolymer complex particles dispersed in an oily phase at a high concentration.

[0028] Furthermore, the inventors of the present invention have discovered, surprisingly, that an additional cosmetic benefit can be obtained in that the dispersion composition of the present invention can provide keratinous materials with a less greasy feel and a less shiny appearance.

[0029] Moreover, when the biopolymer complexes are in the form of xerogel particles, the inventors of the present invention have discovered surprisingly that an additional benefit can be obtained in that the dispersion composition can have a transparent appearance, which is favorable to consumers in various industries, such as the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and coating industries.

[0030] Thus, the present invention relates to a dispersion composition comprising a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises: a. at least one biopolymer; b. at least one acid having four or more acid groups; and c. at least one lipophobe.

[0031] The composition, preparation process and cosmetic process according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below. [Composition]

[0032] The dispersion composition according to the present invention includes a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, and the biopolymer complex comprises (a) at least one biopolymer; (b) at least one acid having four or more acid groups; and (c) at least one lipophobe.

[0033] The composition according to the present invention can provide a high concentration of (a) biopolymers dispersed in an oily phase. The (a) biopolymers can be dispersed as biopolymer complexes in combination with (b) acid(s) having four or more acid groups and (c) lipophobic (s) agent(s).

[0034] The biopolymer complex can be in the form of a hydrogel particle or a xerogel particle. The biopolymer dispersed in an oily phase at a high concentration can be obtained in both forms of biopolymer complex particles. Thus, the present application aims to cover both embodiments of biopolymer complexes that are hydrogel particles and xerogel particles.

[0035] When biopolymer complexes form hydrogel particles, the dispersion composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a mini-emulsion, in particular an inverse mini-emulsion.

[0036] When biopolymer complexes form xerogel particles, the dispersion composition according to the present invention can exhibit a transparent appearance which is preferred for various applications, such as cosmetic, pharmaceutical and coating applications.

[0037] The composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition. The inventors of the present invention have discovered, surprisingly, that applying the dispersion composition can give keratinous materials, such as skin, a less oily appearance and less shine. Thus, in one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application, particularly on keratinous materials, such as skin.

[0038] For the purposes of the present invention, "keratinous materials" is understood to mean skin and keratinous fibers. The term "skin" used here includes the skin of the face and / or body and the scalp. The expression "keratinous fiber" used here includes eyelashes, eyebrows, and hair.

[0039] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition is intended for topical application to keratinous materials, such as the scalp, skin, and hair, particularly the skin. In certain embodiments of In practice, the composition can be a hair care composition and / or scalp care composition and / or skin care composition, and in particular a skin care composition.

[0040] Also, the inventors of the present invention have discovered, surprisingly, that the dispersion composition of the present invention can exhibit a transparent appearance when the biopolymer complexes are in the form of xerogel particles. This property is very well suited to various applications, such as cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and coating applications.

[0041] Also, since the composition according to the present invention has a unique form in which a stable dispersion includes a high concentration of biopolymer complex particles in the oil phase, the composition is useful, for example, in drug delivery in pharmaceutical and coating applications. Thus, the dispersion composition according to the present invention can be a pharmaceutical drug delivery composition, a coating composition, or an ink composition.

[0042] The ingredients and forms of the composition will be described in detail below. {Biopolymer complex}

[0043] The oil dispersion composition according to the present invention comprises a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in a continuous oily phase. The biopolymer complex comprises (a) at least one biopolymer; (b) at least one acid having more than four phosphate groups; and (c) at least one lipophobe.

[0044] The biopolymer complex can take the form of hydrogel particles or xerogel particles. The biopolymer dispersed in an oily phase at a high concentration can be obtained in each case in the form of biopolymer complex particles. Each case is described in detail below.

[0045] - Hydrogel particles

[0046] When biopolymer complexes form hydrogel particles, the dispersion composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a reverse mini-emulsion.

[0047] The average particle size of the biopolymer complexes in the miniemulsion can be from 30 nm to 100 µm, preferably from 40 nm to 10 µm, and more preferably from 30 nm to 1 µm. The expression "average particle size" used here can represent a volume-average diameter-average size, which is given by the statistical particle size distribution at half the population, designated by d50. The volume-average diameter-average size can be measured, for example, by a dynamic light scattering particle size distribution analyzer.

[0048] When biopolymer complexes form hydrogel particles, the biopolymer complexes include a large amount of an aqueous medium, such as water. For example, the amount of aqueous medium in the biopolymer complexes in the form of hydrogel particles may be greater than 70% by weight, preferably 75% by weight or more, more preferably 80% by weight or more, and in particular 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0049] The upper limit of the aqueous medium content in the hydrogel particles is not particularly limited, but in general, can be 95% by weight or less, and preferably 90% by weight less.

[0050] For the purposes of the present invention, the aqueous medium here refers to water and hydrophilic organic solvents, which are miscible with water. In particular, the aqueous medium of the present invention comprises water.

[0051] Thus, water can be cited as an aqueous medium included in the hydrogel particles.

[0052] Water may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Water may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] Water may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] In another embodiment, water may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 70% by weight or more, preferably 75% by weight or more, and more preferably 80% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0056] Water may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 99% by weight or less, preferably 96% by weight or less, and more preferably 93% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0057] Water may be present in biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount ranging from 70% to 99% by weight, preferably from 75% to 96% by weight. weight, and more preferably 80% to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0058] When biopolymer complexes form hydrogel particles including an aqueous medium, the biopolymer complexes may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] When the biopolymer complexes form hydrogel particles, the biopolymer complexes may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] When biopolymer complexes form hydrogel particles, the biopolymer complexes may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] - Xerogel particles

[0062] When the biopolymer complexes form xerogel particles, the dispersion composition according to the present invention may have a transparent appearance.

[0063] The average particle size of biopolymer complexes in the form of xerogel particles can be from 1 nm to 500 nm, preferably from 2 nm to 250 nm, and more preferably from 3 nm to 50 nm. The particle size of xerogel particles can be measured by methods commonly known in the art, for example, by dynamic light scattering particle size distribution analysis or by TEM image analysis. In one embodiment, the average particle size of the xerogel particles is determined by measuring the particle diameter of, for example, 50 particles using TEM image analysis, and then calculating the average particle size.

[0064] In one embodiment, the dispersion composition comprising the xerogel particles of the biopolymer complexes exhibits a low turbidity of 70 NTU or less, preferably 60 NTU or less, and more preferably 50 NTU or less. The turbidity can be measured with a 2100Q (commercially available from Hach Company) equipped with a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm high) and a tungsten filament lamp that can emit visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be performed on the composition undiluted. The blank value can be determined with distilled water or the oil used for the oil phase.

[0065] When biopolymer complexes form xerogel particles, the biopolymer complexes do not include a large amount of an aqueous medium, such as water. For example, the amount of aqueous medium in the biopolymer complexes in the form of xerogel particles may be less than or equal to 70% by weight, preferably 50% by weight or less, more preferably 30% by weight or less, and in particular 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes. In another embodiment, the biopolymer complexes are free of water.

[0066] In another embodiment of the present invention, when the biopolymer complexes form xerogel particles, the composition according to the present invention does not include a large quantity of aqueous medium, such as water. For example, the quantity of aqueous medium in the composition may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes. In yet another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is water-free or an anhydrous composition when the biopolymer complexes are in the form of xerogel particles.

[0067] When the biopolymer complexes form xerogel particles, the biopolymer complexes may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.25% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] When the biopolymer complexes form xerogel particles, the biopolymer complexes may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 8% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] When biopolymer complexes form xerogel particles, the biopolymer complexes may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.25% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] In the context of this patent memorandum, any combination of the above upper limit values ​​and lower limit values ​​is available to represent the preferred range of quantity.

[0071] (Biopolymer)

[0072] The dispersed biopolymer complexes of the present invention comprise (a) at least one biopolymer. Two or more biopolymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (a) biopolymer or a combination of different types of (a) biopolymers may be used in combination.

[0073] The term “biopolymer” is intended here to refer to a polymer that can be produced by a living organism or one of its derivatives. The biopolymer may be obtained synthetically (for example, by laboratory synthesis) and / or obtained and / or derived from nature (for example, from a living or formerly living organism). For example, the biopolymer of the present invention may be a derivative of a polymer produced by a living organism, the derivative resulting from a synthetic process used to obtain or isolate the biopolymer from nature.

[0074] The (a) biopolymer of the present invention can be soluble in water. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "soluble in water" means that a substance is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight, for example at least 5% or 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0075] The molecular weight of (a) the biopolymer may range from 1,000 to 2,000,000, preferably from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more preferably from 3,000 to 500,000, and even more preferably from 5,000 to 300,000. Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" means a number-average molecular weight. The molecular weight may be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example, in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.

[0076] The (a) biopolymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" here refers both to copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and to those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0077] The (a) biopolymer includes, but is not limited to, proteins or polyamino acids, and polysaccharides, and preferably polysaccharides.

[0078] Examples of proteins or polyamino acids include collagen, gelatin, wheat protein, conchiolin protein, soy protein, polylysine and the like.

[0079] Polylysine is well known and is a polyamine. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine, which can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, polylysine can be e-Poly-L-lysine, typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. Polylysine can be found in salt and / or solution form.

[0080] The polysaccharide may be selected from cationic polysaccharides, anionic polysaccharides, non-ionic polysaccharides, and combinations thereof. Preferably, the polysaccharide is selected from ionic polysaccharides and cationic and anionic polysaccharides.

[0081] - Cationic polysaccharide

[0082] The cationic polysaccharide has a positive charge density. The charge density of the cationic polysaccharide can be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0083] The cationic polysaccharide may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged fraction selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group and a pyridyl group. The term "amino group" (primary) here refers to the -NH2 group.

[0084] It is preferable that the cationic polysaccharide has at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a quaternary trialkyl ammonium group, and more preferably a quaternary trimethyl ammonium group.

[0085] The quaternary ammonium group may be present in a group containing a quaternary ammonium group which can be represented by the following chemical formula (I):

[0086] in which

[0087] - each of Ri and R2 designates an alkyl group in Ci.3, preferably a group methyl or ethyl, and more preferably a methyl group,

[0088] - R3 designates an alkyl group at C, 24, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferentially a methyl group,

[0089] - X- designates an anion, preferably a halide, and more preferably a chloride,

[0090] - n denotes an integer from 0 to 30, preferably from 0 to 10 and more preferably 0, and

[0091] - R4 designates an alkylene group at C1.4, preferably an ethylene group or propylene.

[0092] The leftmost ether bond (-O-) in the chemical formula (I) above can attach to the sugar ring of the polysaccharide.

[0093] It is preferable that the group containing the quaternary ammonium group be -O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-N+(CH3)3.

[0094] It may be preferable for the cationic polysaccharide to be chosen from among cationic cellulosic polymers.

[0095] According to the present invention, a "cationic cellulosic polymer" means any non-siliconized cellulosic polymer (containing no silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups into cationic groups and, preferably, not containing anionic groups and / or ionizable groups into anionic groups.

[0096] The term "cellulosic" polymer, according to the invention, designates any polysaccharide compound having in its structure at least 20 chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds. The cellulosic polymer may be associative, that is to say, have in its structure at least one fat chain in C8-C30.

[0097] The following are non-limiting examples of cationic cellulosic polymers. 1. Cationic cellulosic polymers such as cellulose ether derivatives comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups, as described, for example, in French patent no. 1,492,597, such as the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Dow Chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. 2. Cationic cellulosic polymers such as cellulosic copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and described, for example, in US Patent No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with one selected from methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and dimethyldiallylammonium. Commercial products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, the products sold under the names "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by Akzo Novel. 3. Cationic cellulosic polymers having at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one fatty chain.

[0098] The fatty chain of quaternized celluloses modified by groups including at least one linear fatty chain may be a linear alkyl, a linear or branched arylalkyl, a linear alkylaryl, preferably a linear alkyl, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24, or 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0099] Preferably, one can cite quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups including at least one linear fatty chain, such as linear alkyl, linear arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl groups, preferably linear alkyl, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24, or 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0100] Preferably, hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) may be cited:

[0101] in which:

[0102] - R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q- in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen or alkyl atom in linear Ci-C30, preferably an alkyl, and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like chloride or bromide;

[0103] - R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q'- in which R'a, R'b, R'c, identical or different represent a linear C1-C30 hydrogen or alkyl atom, preferably an alkyl, and Q'- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;

[0104] it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b and R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl;

[0105] - n, x and y, which may be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

[0106] Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear alkyl group in the C8-C30 range; preferably in the Ci0-C24 range, or in the Ci0-Ci4 range; in particular, the dodecyl radical (Ci2) may be mentioned. Preferably, the radical or other radicals represent(s) a linear alkyl group in the Ci-C4 range, in particular the methyl group.

[0107] Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear alkyl group in the C8-C30 range; preferably in the Ci0-C24 range, or in the Ci0-Ci4 range; the dodecyl radical (Ci2) may be mentioned in particular. Preferably, all the other radicals represent a linear alkyl group in the C1-C4 range, in particular the methyl group.

[0108] More preferably, R can be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q' and -N+(Ci2 H25)(CH3)2, Q', preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'.

[0109] More preferably, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'.

[0110] The percentage of nitrogen can vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight.

[0111] Examples include polymers with the following INCI names:

[0112] - Polyquatemium-24, such as the QUATRISOFT LM 200® product, marketed by AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL;

[0113] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®;

[0114] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (alkyl in Ci2), such as the CRODACEL QL® product and

[0115] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C[8] alkyl), such as CRODACEL QS® product, marketed by CRODA.

[0116] Other examples include hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R' represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R representing a trimethylammonium chloride Cl₂,(CH₃)₃N⁺ and R' representing a dimethyldodecylammonium chloride C₁,(CH₃)₂(Ci₂H₂₅)N⁺. This type of polymer is known by the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; commercial products include SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-1300X, from AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL.

[0117] More specifically, the cationic cellulosic polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses that have reacted with a trimethylammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethylammonium epoxide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-67). It is preferably marketed under the name Softcat Polymer SL-100 or Softcat Polymer SX-1300X by Amerchol.

[0118] It may also be preferable for the cationic polysaccharide to be chosen from among the cationic starches.

[0119] Examples of cationic starches include starches modified with a salt of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (e.g., chloride), such as the product known as starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride according to the INC1 nomenclature and sold under the name SENSOMER Cl-50 by Ondeo or Pencare™ DP 1015 by Ingredion.

[0120] It may also be preferable that the cationic polysaccharide be chosen from among cationic gums, in particular cationic galactomannan gums.

[0121] The expression "cationic galactomannan gum" means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups.

[0122] Galactomannans are polysaccharides essentially composed of galactose and mannose units, in which the mannose units are linked by a 1,4-glycoside bond and the galactose branching occurs via a 1,6-bridge to the mannose units. Each ring of galactose or mannose units (or sugar units) bears three free hydroxyl groups available for the chemical reaction. Galactomannans are generally found in the endosperm of legume grains such as guar or carob.

[0123] Preferred cationic groups are chosen from those including primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups.

[0124] Galactomannan groups suitable for use according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups.

[0125] Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups can be mentioned in particular.

[0126] More preferably, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

[0127] According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum including hydroxypropyl trialkylammonium groups, more preferably a guar gum including hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium groups, that is to say a guar gum modified for example by 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride.

[0128] Gums can, for example, be chosen from the group consisting of cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, acacia gum and arabic gum.

[0129] These galactomannan gums, derived in particular from guar modified by cationic groups, are products already known as such and are, for example, described in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307.

[0130] Examples of cationic gums include cationic polygalactomannan derivatives such as guar gum derivatives and cassia gum derivatives. Such products are also sold, in particular, under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17, and Jaguar C162 (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by Rhodia, under the name Amilan® Guar (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by Degussa, and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by Aqualon. Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, which is a hydroxypropyl derivative of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, is commercially available under the Jaguar™ brand of Rhodia Inc. Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is commercially available under the trade names Sensomer™ CT-250 and Sensomer™ CT-400 by Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc., and ClearHance™ by Ashland Inc.

[0131] It is also preferable that the cationic polysaccharide be chosen from polyamines such as chitosan.

[0132] In a preferred embodiment, the cationic polysaccharide is chosen from cationic gums, more preferably cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic polygalactomannan derivatives such as guar gum derivatives.

[0133] It may be preferable that the cationic polysaccharide be chosen from the group consisting of polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-67, starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, chitosan, and a mixture thereof, and more preferably guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and a mixture thereof.

[0134] - Anionic polysaccharide

[0135] The anionic polysaccharide can be soluble in water and can carry a negative charge in water.

[0136] The anionic polysaccharide may have at least one negatively chargeable and / or negatively charged fraction selected from the group consisting of carboxylate, for example, carboxyalkyl, sulfate, sulfonate, phosphate, and phosphonate groups. The alkyl groups in these fractions may be the alkyl group in C1.4, such as methyl, ethyl, and propyl.

[0137] It is preferable that anionic polysaccharides have at least one carboxylate group, for example, a carboxyalkyl group. The counterion of the anionic group is usually an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, suitablely sodium, potassium, magnesium, or calcium. Anionic groups may also exist in their acidic form, whereby the corresponding anionic groups are formed in an aqueous environment.

[0138] Anionic polysaccharides may comprise at least one anionic group derived from a carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, sulfenic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acid, or pyruvic acid. Preferably, the anionic group is a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group may also be in the form of an acid salt, in particular a sodium, calcium, lithium, or potassium salt.

[0139] The anionic polysaccharide can be chosen from natural anionic polysaccharides and synthetic anionic polysaccharides.

[0140] Examples of suitable natural anionic polysaccharides of the invention include polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, hyaluronic acid, and their salts; polysaccharides comprising at least one galacturonic acid as a constituent, such as pectins; sulfated polysaccharides, such as carrageenan, ulvan, fucoidan, chondroitin sulfates, dermatan sulfates; agar-agar, and combinations thereof.

[0141] Xanthan gum is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of [3-D-glucoses] linked in a [3(1,4) manner, similar to cellulose. Every other glucose molecule carries a trisaccharide side chain composed of an α-D-mannose, a [3-D-glucuronic acid], and a terminal [3-D-mannose]. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated at carbon 6. Approximately 30% of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in a chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. The charged glucuronic and pyruvic acids are ionizable and thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan gum (negative charge up to pH 1). The content of pyruvate and acetate residues varies depending on the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, post-fermentation conditions and purification steps.

[0142] Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan by the company ADM and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.

[0143] Gellan gum is a linear anionic heteropolysaccharide based on oligosaccharide motifs composed of 4 saccharides (tetrasaccharide). D-glucose, L-

[0144]

[0145]

[0146]

[0147]

[0148] Rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in a 2:1:1 ratio are present in gellan gum as monomeric components. It is sold, for example, under the name Kelcogel CG LA by the company CP Kelco. Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide that exists as mixtures of potassium, magnesium, and calcium salts. The monomeric components of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, and D-glucuronic acid. Alginic acid, a natural substance derived from brown algae or certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of two uronic acids linked by 1,4-glycosidic bonds: 3-D-mannuronic acid (M) and αL-glucuronic acid (G). Alginic acid is capable of forming water-soluble salts (alginates) with alkali metals such as sodium, potassium, or lithium, and with substituted cations of lower amines and ammonium such as methylamine, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, or triethanolamine. Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula. In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" specifically covers the basic hyaluronic acid formula:

[0149]

[0150] This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine. The term "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric motif described above, linked together in the chain via alternating [3(1,4) and [3(1,3)] glycosidic bonds, having a molecular weight (MW) that can vary between 380 and 1,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on of the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and / or the preparation processes.

[0151] The expression "hyaluronic acid and its derivatives" also includes, in the context of the present invention, hyaluronic acid salts. Examples of salts include alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium and ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the hyaluronic acid derivative is sodium hyaluronate.

[0152] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight between 50,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 100,000 and 5,000,000, especially between 400,000 and 5,000,000 Da. In this case, the expression used is high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0153] Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may also be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. In this case, the expression used is hyaluronic acid of intermediate molecular weight.

[0154] In another variant, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may be suitable for the use covered by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. In this case, the expression used is low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

[0155] Pectins are linear polymers of α-D-galacturonic acid (at least 65%) linked at positions 1 and 4, with a certain proportion of carboxyl groups esterified with a methanol group. Approximately 20% of the sugars constituting the pectin molecule are neutral sugars (L-rhamnose, D-glucose, D-galactose, L-arabinose, D-xylose). L-rhamnose residues are present in all pectins, integrated into the main chain at positions 1 and 2. The α-galacturonic acid molecules bear carboxyl groups. This function gives pectins the ability to exchange ions when they are in the COO⁻ form. Divalent ions (in particular calcium) have the ability to form ionic bridges between two carboxyl groups of two different pectin molecules.

[0156] Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinaceae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae, and Polyideaceae. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units alternately linked by α(1,3) and β(1,4) bonds. They are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20 to 50%) and the residues α-D-galactopyranosyl can exist in the 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and position of the sulfate ester groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, several types of carrageenan are distinguished: kappa-carrageenan, which has one sulfate ester group; iota-carrageenan, which has two sulfate ester groups; and lambda-carrageenan, which has three sulfate ester groups. Carrageenan is composed primarily of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine, and / or calcium salts and polysaccharide sulfate esters.

[0157] Agar-agar is formed from a polymer group in which the basic skeleton is a [3(1,3) D-galactopyranose chain and an a(1,4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose chain, these motifs repeating regularly and alternately. The differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of solvated methyl or carboxyethyl groups. These hybrid structures are generally present in varying percentages, depending on the seaweed species and the harvest season.

[0158] In a preferred embodiment, the anionic polysaccharide is selected from polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, and hyaluronic acid, in particular xanthan gum.

[0159] Examples of suitable synthetic anionic polysaccharides include anionic cellulosic derivatives. Anionic cellulosic derivatives may include those modified by carboxyalkyl groups, particularly the C14 carboxyalkyl group such as the carboxymethyl group, the carboxyethyl group, the carboxypropyl group, and by sulfoalkyl groups, particularly the C14 sulfoalkyl group, such as the sulfomethyl group. Examples of anionic cellulosic derivatives include carboxymethylcellulose, carboxyethylcellulose, carboxypropylcellulose, sulfoethylcarboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose (“CM-HEC”), and carboxymethylcellulose.

[0160] The anionic polysaccharide may preferably be selected from polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, alginic acid or alginates, hyaluronic acid and their salts, more preferably xanthan gum and hyaluronic acid and their salts, and their combinations.

[0161] - Non-ionic polysaccharide

[0162] The nonionic polysaccharide may be chosen from those described, for example, in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, Volume 3, pp. 896-900, and Volume 15, pp. 439-458, in "Polymers in Nature" by EA MacGregor and CT Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, and in "Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academie Press Inc.

[0163] Specifically, the nonionic polysaccharide may be selected, for example, from glucans, modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, e.g. wheat, maize or rice, vegetables, e.g. yellow peas, and tubers, e.g. potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextran, celluloses and their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethyl hydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, gums karaya, carob gums or locust bean gums, galactomannans, such as guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof,which are different from the cationic polysaccharide and the anionic polysaccharide explained above.

[0164] Among the starches that can be used, one can cite, for example, macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising elementary fractions that are anhydroglucose units. The number of these fractions and their arrangement allow one to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) from amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches.

[0165] The botanical origin of the starch molecules used may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches may be chosen, for example, from maize starch, rice starch, cassava starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0166] Starches are generally in the form of a white powder insoluble in cold water and which has an elementary particle size ranging from 3 to 100 microns.

[0167] Starches may optionally be hydroxyalkylated at Ci-C6 or acylated at Ci-C6 (such as acetylated). Starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

[0168] Guar gums may be modified or unmodified.

[0169] Modified non-ionic guar gums are, for example, modified by hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C6.

[0170] Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, examples include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0171] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as oxides of propylene, with guar gum in order to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0172] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, can, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.

[0173] These non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP-8 COS, Jaguar HP-60, Jaguar HP-120 and Jaguar HP-120 by the Solvay company.

[0174] Examples of celluloses used include hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcelluloses. Examples include products sold under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel MF and Klucel G by the Ashland company.

[0175] Alternatively, as a hydrophilic non-ionic polysaccharide thickener, polysaccharides derived from microorganisms may also preferably be used.

[0176] Microorganism-derived polysaccharide refers to a polysaccharide produced by microorganisms such as germs or bacteria.

[0177] The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms is not a polysaccharide derived from plants. Thus, it may be preferable for the polysaccharide derived from microorganisms not to be cellulose-based.

[0178] Examples of polysaccharides derived from microorganisms include curdlan, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0179] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) biopolymer is selected from polyamino acids, such as collagen, gelatin and polylysine; and polysaccharides, preferably ionic polysaccharides, i.e. cationic polysaccharides and anionic polysaccharides, more preferably polyamines and polysaccharides comprising at least one glucuronic acid as a constituent, and even more preferably chitosan, xanthan gum and hyaluronic acid and their salts, and combinations thereof.

[0180] The (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0181] The (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 7% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] The (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.01% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.075% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] In another embodiment, the (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.75% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0184] The (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0185] The (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.75% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0186] In another embodiment, the (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in the xerogel particle biopolymer complexes in an amount of 10% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0187] The (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in the xerogel particle biopolymer complexes in an amount of 70% by weight or less, preferably 60% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0188] The (a) biopolymer(s) may be present in xerogel particle biopolymer complexes in an amount from 10% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes. (Acid having four or more acid groups)

[0189] The dispersed biopolymer complexes of the present invention comprise (b) at least one acid having four or more acid groups. Two or more acids having four or more acid groups may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (b) acid having four or more acid groups or a combination of different types of (b) acids having four or more acid groups may be used in combination.

[0190] The (b) acid having four or more acid groups can serve as a crosslinking agent to introduce crosslinks between the chains of the (a) biopolymers to produce biopolymer complex particles.

[0191] The (b) acid may be organic or inorganic acids. Preferably, the (b) acid is chosen from among organic acids.

[0192] The acid groups of (b) acid may be selected from, for example, a carboxylic acid group, a sulfuric acid group, a sulfonic acid group, a phosphonic acid group, a phosphoric acid group, a phenolic hydroxyl group, and mixtures thereof, and preferably a phosphoric acid group. Preferably, (b) acid is selected from those having four or more phosphoric acid or carboxylic acid groups, in particular phosphoric acid groups.

[0193] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (b) acid comprises from 4 to 8 acid groups, preferably from 4 to 7 acid groups, and more preferably from 5 or 6 acid groups.

[0194] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (b) acid comprises from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0195] In one embodiment of the present invention, (b) the acid is selected from phosphoric acids and carboxylic acids, preferably phosphoric acids. Non-limiting examples of phosphoric acids having four or more phosphoric groups may include inositol pentakisphosphate, phytic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0196] In one embodiment of the present invention, (b) the acid is selected from carboxylic acids. Non-limiting examples of carboxylic acids having four or more carboxylic groups may include tetracarboxylic acids, such as EDTA, pentacarboxylic acids, and hexacarboxylic acids.

[0197] In another embodiment of the present invention, the (b) acid may be selected from those including at least one alicyclic group, such as a cycloalkane group, preferably a C5 or C6 cycloalkane group, in particular a cyclohexane group. Examples of (b) acids including at least one alicyclic group include inositol pentakisphosphate and phytic acid.

[0198] The acid of the present invention may be in the form of a salt. The term "salt" here refers to a salt formed by the addition of one or more bases suitable for acids. Examples of salts include metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.

[0199] The (b) acid(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.002% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.003% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0200] The (b) acid(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.05% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0201] The (b) acid(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.002% to 0.1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.003% to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0202] In another embodiment, the (b) acid(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.02% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.03% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0203] The (b) acid(s) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0204] The (b) acid(s) may be present in biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount from 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.03% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0205] In another embodiment, the (b) acid(s) may be present in the xerogel particle biopolymer complexes in an amount of 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0206] The (b) acid(s) may be present in the xerogel particle biopolymer complexes in an amount of 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0207] The (b) acid(s) may be present in xerogel particle biopolymer complexes in an amount from 0.05% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes. (Lipophobic)

[0208] The dispersed biopolymer complexes of the present invention comprise (c) at least one lipophobe. Two or more lipophobes may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (c) lipophobe or a combination of different types of (c) lipophobes may be used in combination.

[0209] The term “lipophobic” herein means lipophobic substances that are not soluble or substantially insoluble in lipids, oils, and / or other nonpolar solvents. Examples of lipids, oils, and / or other nonpolar solvents herein include isododecane, n-octanol, corn oil, and castor oil, in particular corn oil and / or castor oil.

[0210] For example, in one embodiment of the present invention, the lipophobic (c) has solubility in lipids, oils, and / or other nonpolar solvents at a concentration of 0.1% by weight or less, for example, 0.01% or 0.001% by weight or less at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa). In another embodiment, the lipophobic (c) is not soluble in isododecane, n-octanol, and / or castor oil, in particular castor oil.

[0211] In another embodiment of the present invention, the (c) lipophobe could be a substance that is insoluble in the oily phase, in particular insoluble in oily or fatty substances included in the oily phase as an oily medium, such as oils.

[0212] The term “lipophobic” can also be represented as “lipophobic substance”.

[0213] In the present invention, the (c) lipophobic may be hydrophilic. Specifically, the (c) lipophilic may have solubility in water at a concentration of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0214] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) lipophobe has a solubility in water at a concentration of at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, and more preferably at least 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0215] The (c) lipophobic agent used in the present invention can function to inhibit or suppress mass exchange between droplets of the dispersed phases (dispersed biopolymer complexes or dispersed aqueous phases). Thus, undesirable Ostwald ripening of the dispersed phase droplets, which leads to droplet size growth, could be reduced or completely avoided, resulting in stable particles of the biopolymer complexes in the oily phase of the present invention.

[0216] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) lipophobe is not a polymer. In this embodiment, the (c) lipophobe may not be a polymeric substance.

[0217] The (c) lipophobe may have a weight average molecular weight of less than 600, preferably less than 500, in particular less than 400. In the context of this patent memorandum, the average molecular weight means a number average molecular weight.

[0218] The (c) lipophobic of the present invention can be selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, lower C2-C4 polyols, sugar alcohols, inorganic salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0219] The monosaccharide may include pentose, hexose and heptose, such as glucose, dextrose, galactose, mannose and glucuronic acid.

[0220] Oligosaccharides may include disaccharides, such as sucrose, lactose, maltose and trisaccharides such as raffinose.

[0221] Glycerol can be cited as a lower C2-C4 polyol.

[0222] Examples of sugar alcohols include erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, Mannitol and their mixtures.

[0223] Inorganic salts may include calcium salts, potassium salts, sodium salts, and magnesium salts of inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, carbonic acid, sulfuric acid, and phosphoric acid. Examples of inorganic salts include NaCl, MgCl2, KNO3, and mixtures thereof.

[0224] The lipophobic (c) may preferably be selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, inorganic salts, and combinations thereof. More preferably, the lipophobic (c) may preferably be selected from glucose, sucrose, NaCl, and combinations thereof.

[0225] The lipophobic (c) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0226] The lipophobic (c) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0227] The lipophobic (c) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0228] In another embodiment, the lipophobic (c) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 0.5% in weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0229] The lipophobic (c) may be present in the biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0230] The lipophobic (c) may be present in biopolymer complexes of hydrogel particles in an amount from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0231] In another embodiment, the lipophobic (c) may be present in the xerogel particle biopolymer complexes in an amount of 10% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0232] The lipophobic (c) may be present in the xerogel particle biopolymer complexes in an amount of 70% by weight or less, preferably 60% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0233] The lipophobic (c) may be present in xerogel particle biopolymer complexes in an amount from 10% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes. (pH correcting agent)

[0234] The biopolymer complexes of the present invention may further comprise at least one pH-correcting agent. Thus, a single type of pH-correcting agent or a combination of different types of pH-correcting agents may be used.

[0235] As a pH adjusting agent, at least one acidifying agent and / or at least one alkaline agent may be used. The pH adjusting agent is different from (b) an acid having four or more acid groups and (c) a lipophobic agent.

[0236] Acidifying agents may be, for example, mineral or organic acids, for example hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carboxylic acid, for example tartaric acid, citric acid, and lactic acid, or sulfonic acid.

[0237] The alkalizing agent may be, for example, any inorganic or organic basic agent commonly used in cosmetic products such as ammonia; alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, isopropanolamine; sodium and potassium hydroxides; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below: R3 R2? R4

[0238] in which

[0239] - R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a Hydroxyl or an alkyl radical in the Ci-C4 group, and Rb, R2, Ri, and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical, or a hydroxyalkyl radical in the CrC4 group, an example of which is 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives. Arginine, urea, and monoethanolamine may be preferable.

[0240] The acidifying agent or the alkalizing agent may be present in an amount from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0241] The acidifying agent or the alkalizing agent may be present in an amount from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the biopolymer complexes.

[0242] The pH of the biopolymer complexes can be corrected to, for example, from 3.0 to 7.5, preferably from 3.50 to 7.0, and more preferably from 4.0 to 6.5. {Oily phase}

[0243] The dispersion composition according to the present invention comprises a continuous oily phase in which the biopolymer complexes are dispersed. The oily phase is generally composed of oily or fatty substances such as oils.

[0244] The oil phase may be composed of lipophilic ingredients. The term "lipophilic" here may refer to an organic compound that is hydrophobic and insoluble in water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (10⁵ Pa). The solubility in water of the lipophilic substance may be less than 1% by weight, for example, less than 0.5% by weight or less than 0.1% by weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (10⁵ Pa).

[0245] The oily phase may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 65% ​​by weight or more, and more preferably 80% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0246] The oily phase may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 99% by weight or less, preferably 96% by weight or less, and more preferably 93% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0247] The oily phase may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 65% to 96% by weight. weight, and more preferably 80% to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0248] The oily phases of the present invention may comprise at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant. • Oil

[0249] The oily phase of the present invention may comprise at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used in combination.

[0250] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid, a paste (non-solid), or a solid at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (10⁵ Pa). The oil used in the present invention is preferably in the form of a liquid or a paste at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (10⁵ Pa). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0251] The term “liquid” is meant to mean that the substance is in a liquid state, i.e. capable of flowing under its own weight, at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa), as opposed to a “solid” state.

[0252] The oil preferably comprises at least one oil in liquid form at ambient temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0253] Among the oils that can be used in the present invention, we can mention: volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils can be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

[0254] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oil does not contain any silicon atoms.

[0255] For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone oil" is intended to designate an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0256] For the purposes of the present invention, "polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter ôa at 25 °C is different from 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2.

[0257] In particular, "polar oil" means an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

[0258] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space of Hansen are described in the article by CM Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

[0259] According to this Hansen space:

[0260] - ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular impacts;

[0261] - ôp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

[0262] - ôh characterizes specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base bonds, donor / acceptor bonds and similar);

[0263] - ôa is determined by the equation: ôa= (ôp2 + ôh2)' / 2.

[0264] The parameters ôp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)' / 2.

[0265] Preferably, the polar oils used according to the present invention have an ôa between 4 and 9.1, preferably an ôa between 6 and 9.1, even better between 7.3 and 9.1.

[0266] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0267] The oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0268] Examples of vegetable oils include linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0269] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0270] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0271] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0272] In one embodiment of the present invention, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0273] The ester oils of monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols can be represented by the formula RiCOOR2 in which R, represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid, preferably linear comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, provided that Ri+ R2 is > 10.

[0274] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0275] It is preferable that the ester oil be chosen from among the ester oils of fatty acids.

[0276] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and Ci-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0277] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylethylethylyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0278] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C3O fatty acids, and preferably of C12-C22 fatty acids, may be used. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0279] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, Arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0280] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C30> and preferably in C12-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0281] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0282] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

[0283] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl 2-octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0284] Examples of ether oils include dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:

[0285] R'-O-R2

[0286] in which

[0287] each of R1 and R2 independently designates a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, preferably a C6-Ci8 alkyl group, more preferably a C8-Ci2 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical.

[0288] Examples of linear alkyl groups include butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, behenyl, docosyl, tricosyl and tetracosyl.

[0289] Examples of branched alkyl groups include 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, β-butyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 5-methyloctyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, and a group l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, an l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and a 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.

[0290] Examples of cyclic alkyl groups include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.

[0291] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0292] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0293] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0294] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) by Walter Noll, Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0295] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:

[0296] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 with 5 silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula: -------------------------

[0297] with D”: ch3 — If — O—

[0298] and with D': CH. j J “ Sî ““ O ““ CgH

[0299] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0300] (ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0301] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0302] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:

[0303] - Silbione® oils from ranges 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0304] - the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;

[0305] - Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s; and

[0306] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0307] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0308] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0309] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0310] in which

[0311] - Ri in Rio are, independently of each other, radicals based of linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C30 hydrocarbons, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

[0312] - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 up to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0313] provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.

[0314] Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names:

[0315] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range by Rhodia;

[0316] - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;

[0317] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

[0318] - silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20;

[0319] - certain oils in the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0320] As a phenylsilicone oil, phenyltrimethicone (Ri to R10 are a methyl; p, qetn = 0; m=l in the formula above) is preferable.

[0321] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0322] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0323] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane;

[0324] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane; and

[0325] - mixtures of alkanes, for example, C9-12 Alkane, C10-13 Alkane, C13-14 Alkane, C13-15 Alkane, C14-17 Alkane, C14-19 Alkane, C15-19 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, C18-21 Alkane, C8-9 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-10 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-11 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-16 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C10-12 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cl 1-14 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cl 1-15 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C12-13 Alkane / Cycloalkane.

[0326] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils may be cited, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, a mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; a hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and a decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0327] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

[0328] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0329] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is a saturated or unsaturated linear radical containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0330] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is a saturated or unsaturated branched radical containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0331] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0332] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol. Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated C6-C3o alcohols, linear or branched, preferably from saturated C6-C3o alcohols, linear or branched, and more preferably from saturated Ci2-C2o alcohols, linear or branched.

[0333] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be chosen from any saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may preferably be used. Any saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used more preferably. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be used even more preferably.

[0334] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0335] It is also preferable that the oil be chosen from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0336] Preferably, the oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g / mol, selected from ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C1-C12) (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isononanoate and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohol type oils (C12-C30) such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol and ether oils such as dicaprylic ether.

[0337] It is preferable that the oil be chosen from among polar oils and, more preferably, from among ester oils, fatty alcohols, and one of their combinations. It is further preferred that the oil comprise both ester oils and fatty alcohols, in particular monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols represented by the formula RiCOOR2 in which R, represents the residue of a linear fatty acid comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a chain based on branched hydrocarbons containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and the fatty alcohol having the structure R-OH, in which R is chosen from among saturated branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and, more preferably, from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0338] It may be preferable for the oil to be chosen from oils of vegetable or animal origin. In another embodiment, the oil is preferably chosen from vegetable oils, such as linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0339] The quantity of oil or oils in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 65% ​​by weight or more, and, more preferably 75% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0340] The quantity of oil or oils in the composition according to the present invention may be 98% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 93% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0341] The quantity of oil or oils in the composition according to the present invention may range from 50% to 98% by weight, preferably from 65% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 75% to 93% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Surfactant

[0342] The oily phase of the present invention may comprise at least one surfactant. Two or more surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants may be used.

[0343] The surfactant may be chosen from amphoteric, anionic, Cationic or non-ionic surfactants, used alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the oil phase includes at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0344] The surfactant is preferably derived from natural sources.

[0345] Examples of nonionic surfactants usable in the compositions of the present invention may include polyethoxylated fatty alcohols or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as ethylene oxide adducts with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene motifs (Laureth-9 to Laureth-50, according to the INCI names), in particular Laureth-9; esters of polyols and a fatty acid having a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylated derivatives, i.e. comprising oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs, such as esters of glycerol and a C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylated derivatives, in particular polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate), for example PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate;C8-C24 sugar and fatty acid esters and their oxyalkylated derivatives, such as polyethoxylated sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, in particular Polysorbate 80, such as the product marketed under the name "TWEEN 80" by Croda; C8-C24 sugar and fatty alcohol ethers, such as caprylyl / capryl glucoside; hydrophobized polysaccharides; polyoxyethylenated alkyl ethers; polyoxyethylenated oxypropylene alkyl ethers; fatty acid alkanolamides; alkylamine oxides; alkylpolyglycosides and silicone surfactants, such as a polydimethylsiloxane containing oxyethylene groups and / or oxypropylene groups, for example PEG-10 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-14 / 14 dimethicone, bis-PEG / PPG-20 / 20 dimethicone and PEG / PPG-20 / 6 dimethicone;and a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate and polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate; and mixtures thereof.

[0346] Furthermore, as non-ionic surfactants, alkyl polyglycosides, represented by the following general formula (1), can be cited:

[0347] RO-(G)X(1)

[0348] wherein R represents a branched and / or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and x denotes a value from 1 to 10, and preferably from 1 to 4, and G denotes in particular glucose, fructose, or galactose. Examples of alkyl polyglycosides of this type include alkyl polyglucosides (G = glucose in formula (I)), and in particular compounds of formula (I) in which R more particularly represents an oleyl radical (unsaturated Ci8 radical) or isostearyl radical (saturated Ci8 radical), G denotes glucose, and x is a value from 1 to 2, in particular isostearyl glycoside, oleyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.This alkyl polyglucoside can be used in a mixture with a co-emulsifier, more particularly with a fatty alcohol and in particular a fatty alcohol having the same fatty chain as the alkyl polyglucoside, i.e. comprising 14 to 24 carbon atoms and having a branched and / or unsaturated chain, for example isostearyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is isostearyl glucoside and oleyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is oleyl glucoside.

[0349] Furthermore, according to the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to use together a fatty alcohol and an alkyl polyglycoside whose alkyl portion is identical to that of the selected fatty alcohol. Among the particularly preferred fatty alcohol / alkyl polyglycoside mixtures are the products sold by SEPPIC under the name Montanov®, such as the following mixtures:

[0350] - cetostearyl alcohol / cocoyl glucoside (Montanov 82®),

[0351] - arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidyl glucoside (Montanov 802®),

[0352] - myristyl alcohol / myristyl glucoside (Montanov 14®),

[0353] - cetearyl alcohol / cetearyl glucoside (Montanov 68®),

[0354] - Ci4-C22 alcohol / Ci2-C2o alkyl glucoside (Montanov L®),

[0355] - cocoyl alcohol / cocoyl glucoside (Montanov S®) and

[0356] - isostearyl alcohol / isostearyl glucoside (Montanov WO 18®).

[0357] In hydrophobized polysaccharides, the polysaccharide may be selected from polyglucose or polyfructose. Preferred polyglucoses are selected from cellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, amylose, amylopectin, and dextrin. A preferred polyfructose is inulin. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophobized polysaccharide as a nonionic surfactant is hydrophobized inulin.

[0358] In hydrophobic polysaccharides, the hydrophobic chains that can be connected or grafted onto the main chain of the polysaccharides can in particular be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chains having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl and alkylene, divalent cycloaliphatic groups, or organopolysiloxane chains. These hydrocarbon or organopolysiloxane chains may, in particular, comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, and / or sulfonamide functional groups. In particular, illustrative and non-limiting examples of hydrophobized inulins that may be used in compositions according to the present invention include stearoyl inulin, such as that sold under the names Lifidrem INST by Engelhard and Rheopearl INS by Ciba; palmitoyl inulin; undecylenoyl inulin, such as that sold under the names Lifidrem INUK and Lifidrem INUM by Engelhard; and laurylcarbamate inulin, such as that sold under the name Inutec SP1 by Orafti.

[0359] In one embodiment of the present invention, the surfactant used in the present invention has an HLB value of 8.0 or less. The term HLB (“hydrophilic-lipophilic balance”) is well known to those skilled in the art and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the molecule.

[0360] In a preferred embodiment, the surfactant useful in the present invention is selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, in particular fatty acid polyglyceryl esters having an HLB value of 8 or less.

[0361] The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be selected from mono, di, tri esters and higher esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acid(s).

[0362] The fatty acid fraction of the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may include 10 or more carbon atoms, preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, more preferably 14 or more carbon atoms, and even more preferably 16 or more carbon atoms, and may include 26 or fewer carbon atoms, preferably 24 or fewer carbon atoms, more preferably 22 or fewer carbon atoms, and even more preferably 20 or fewer carbon atoms.

[0363] The fatty acid for the fatty acid fraction of the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be saturated or unsaturated, and may be selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and oleic acid.

[0364] Preferably, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 10 or fewer glycerol units, preferably 8 or fewer glycerol units, more preferably 6 or fewer glycerol units, and even more preferably 4 or fewer glycerol units. Preferably, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 2 glycerol units.

[0365] The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 distearate (HLB: 4), PG2 isostearate (HLB: 4.7), PG2 diisostearate (HLB: 3.2), PG2 triisostearate (HLB: 3), PG2 sesquiisostearate (HLB: approximately 4), PG2 oleate (HLB: 5.5), PG2 sesquioleate (HLB: 5.3), PG3 distearate (HLB: 5), PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 dicocoate (HLB: 7), PG5 hexastearate (HLB: 4.0), trioleate of PG5 (HLB: 7.0), PG10 pentaoleate (HLB: 6.4), PG2 sesquicaprylate (HLB: approximately 8), PG6 distearate (HLB: 8), PG10 tristearate (HLB: 8), PG10 triisostearate (HLB: 8) and mixtures thereof.

[0366] Alternatively, the fatty acid fraction of the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be a polymer of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If the fatty acid has a carboxyl group and a hydroxyl group, the polymer can be a fatty acid polycondensate that can be formed by the reaction of the carboxyl group or the hydroxyl group of one fatty acid with the hydroxyl group and the carboxyl group of another fatty acid, respectively. Thus, the fatty acid fraction of the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids. In other words, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxy acids.

[0367] When the fatty acid fraction of the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is a polymer, the fatty acid fraction of the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may comprise 25 or more carbon atoms, preferably 30 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 35 or more carbon atoms, and may comprise 90 or less carbon atoms, preferably 72 or less carbon atoms, and more preferably 54 or less carbon atoms.

[0368] Ricinoleic acid is an example of a hydroxyl acid, in particular an unsaturated hydroxyl acid, and has a carboxyl group and a hydroxyl group. Thus, the fatty acid fraction of a fatty acid polyglyceryl can be formed by the polycondensation of ricinoleic acids, giving the polyricinoleate. Thus, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be polyglycerol polyricinoleate (PGPR), that is, a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of polyricinoleate.

[0369] The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) may be selected from the group consisting of PG3 polyricinoleate, PG4 polyricinoleate, PG5 polyricinoleate, PG6 polyricinoleate (HLB: 3.5), and mixtures thereof.

[0370] The surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0371] The surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0372] The surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% in weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. • Adjuvant

[0373] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more adjuvants common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, chosen from a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular water-soluble organic solvents; cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; gelling agents; thickeners; penetrating agents; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; moisturizers; emollients; free radical phagocytes; suspending agents; sequestering agents; buffers; perfumes; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and / or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; preservatives; co-preservatives; opacifying agents; essential oils; agents that can produce a cooling sensation; and mixtures thereof.

[0374] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant or adjuvants added to the composition according to the present invention so that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition.

[0375] The adjuvants may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Preparation]

[0376] The dispersion composition according to the present invention can be prepared by any type of preparation process, which are well known to those skilled in the art, by mixing the ingredients as explained above. Preferably, the dispersion composition according to the present invention can be obtained by processes for preparing inverse mini-emulsions.

[0377] Thus, the present invention also relates to a process for preparing the dispersion composition comprising a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises (a) at least one biopolymer; (b) at least one acid having four or more acid groups; and (c) at least one lipophobe, by a reverse miniemulsion process.

[0378] In one embodiment, the process for preparing the dispersion composition comprising hydrogel particles of biopolymer complexes according to the present invention may include the following steps: i. the preparation of an oil phase and an aqueous phase separately, wherein the aqueous phase comprises a. at least one biopolymer; b. at least one acid having four or more acid groups; and c. at least one lipophobe, ii. mixing of the aqueous phase and the oily phase to obtain a mixture, and iii. Emulsification of the mixture to obtain a dispersion composition including a continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase.

[0379] Ingredients (a) to (c), the oily phase and the biopolymer complexes are as explained above.

[0380] The aqueous phase may further comprise the aqueous medium, such as water, and / or the pH adjusting agent. The water and the pH adjusting agent are as explained above.

[0381] Emulsification in step (iii) can be carried out by stirring and / or sonication.

[0382] The stirring method is not particularly limited, as long as it can provide a strong shear force. For example, a magnetic stirrer, a homogenizer, or a high-pressure homogenizer can be used. In one embodiment, stirring is carried out at 500 to 6,000 rpm for 5 to 180 minutes at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0383] The state of sonication can be at a magnitude of sonication ranges from 1,000 W / L to 20,000 W / L, for 1 minute to 60 minutes at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0384] In one embodiment, the emulsification in step (iii) is carried out with both stirring and sonication. In a preferred embodiment, the emulsification in step (iii) is carried out with stirring followed by sonication.

[0385] After obtaining the biopolymer complexes in the form of hydrogel particles, the process according to the present invention may further include a step (iv) of evaporating the aqueous medium, such as water, from the hydrogel particles, to produce the biopolymer complexes in the form of xerogel particles.

[0386] Thus, the process for preparing the dispersion composition comprising xerogel particles of biopolymer complexes according to the present invention may include the following steps: i. the preparation of an oil phase and an aqueous phase separately, wherein the aqueous phase comprises a. at least one biopolymer; b. at least one acid having four or more acid groups; and c. at least one lipophobe, ii. the mixing of the aqueous phase and the oily phase to obtain a mixture, iii. Emulsification of the mixture, followed by sonication of the mixture to obtain a dispersion composition comprising a continuous oil phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oil phase; and iv. evaporation of the aqueous phase from the biopolymer complexes to obtain the dispersion composition comprising biopolymer complexes in the form of xerogel particles.

[0387] Evaporation can be carried out by placing the dispersion composition in the condition, for example, at a temperature of 10 °C to 100 °C under 103 Pa to 105 Pa for 5 minutes to 120 minutes.

[0388] According to a preferred embodiment, the dispersion composition comprises the continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. from 0.01% to 5% by weight of at least one biopolymer chosen from among amino acids, cationic polysaccharides and anionic polysaccharides; b. 0.001% to 0.5% by weight of at least one acid having four or more acid groups selected from phosphoric acids and carboxylic acids, preferably phosphoric acids; and c. 0.1% to 5% by weight of at least one lipophobe chosen from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, lower C2-C4 polyols, sugar alcohols, inorganic salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0389] According to another preferred embodiment, the dispersion composition comprises the continuous oily phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oily phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 0.075% to 1% by weight of at least one biopolymer selected from polylysine, collagen, gelatin, chitosan, xanthan gum and hyaluronic acid and their salts, and combinations thereof; b. 0.003% to 0.05% by weight of at least one acid having four or more acid groups selected from inositol pentakisphosphate, phytic acid and one of their combinations; and c. 0.3% to 1% by weight of at least one lipophobe chosen from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, inorganic salts, and their combinations. [Cosmetic process and use]

[0390] The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or revitalization of keratinous material, such as hair, scalp and / or skin, preferably hair, comprising the application to the keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention.

[0391] Cosmetic process here means a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or revitalization of keratinous material.

[0392] The application step can be carried out by any conventional means such as an applicator, for example the hands, a sprayer, and a brush. The application step can be a topical application step.

[0393] The composition according to the present invention is intended for use as a leave-on cosmetic composition. Therefore, the cosmetic process according to the present invention does not include a rinsing or washing step to remove the applied composition from the keratinous material after the application step. In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic process of the present invention does not include a rinsing or washing step to remove the applied composition within one hour, preferably within two hours, more preferably within four hours, and even more preferably within eight hours after the application step.

[0394] Moreover, the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention in the field of cosmetics, in particular the care and / or revitalization of keratinous material. EXAMPLES

[0395] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which, however, should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0396] [Compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6]

[0397] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and the Comparative Examples 1 to 6 was prepared with the ingredients listed in Tables 1 and 2 below. First, corn oil and polyglycerol polyricinoleate were mixed to prepare an oil phase. An aqueous phase was prepared separately by mixing the ingredients listed as "aqueous phase" in Tables 1 and 2. 1 and 2, then added to the oil phase. The resulting mixture was stirred at 1000 rpm at room temperature for one hour, then ultrasonically dispersed for 10 minutes at 6000 W / L in an ice bath to obtain a dispersion composition comprising biopolymer complexes dispersed in a continuous oil phase. The numerical values ​​of the ingredient quantities presented in Tables 1 and 2 are all based on the "% by weight" as raw material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0398] Next, the dispersion composition according to Example 1 was heated to 50 °C under a reduced pressure of 36,000 Pa for 70 minutes to obtain the composition comprising xerogel particles of biopolymer matrices dispersed in the oil phase. This composition was transparent. According to the TEM image, the average size of the xerogel particle was 154 ± 98 nm. The estimated water content in the obtained composition comprising xerogel particles was approximately 0 wt%. The water content was estimated by infrared spectroscopy. [Evaluation] (Stability)

[0399] The composition according to each of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 was left undisturbed at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa) for one week, and its appearance was assessed visually. "Stable" here means that the dispersed biopolymer complexes retained their conformations and / or shapes after one week. The stability of the composition was classified according to the following criteria.

[0400] Good: the composition has retained its conformation and / or shapes after one week.

[0401] Bad: some aggregates of particles were observed.

[0402] Very bad: sedimentation of particles was observed. (Sensory assessments)

[0403] 50 mg of the composition of each of Examples 1 and 2 and of Examples Comparisons 1 through 6 were applied to the inner forearm of eight laboratory experts. Sensory assessments of "oily appearance" and "shine" were conducted by the eight experts using the following five scales (oily appearance: 1; oily - 5; less oily; shine: 1; shiny - 5; less shiny). The average of these scores was calculated.

[0404] The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2 below.

[0405] [Tables 1] Phase Ingredients Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. comp. 1 Ex. comp. 2 Oily phase Corn oil 84.75 84.75 84.75 84.75 Polyglycerol polyricinoleate 5.08 5.08 5.08 5.08 Aqueous phase Water Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Chitosan 0.51 - - - Sodium hyaluronate - 0.1 - - Lactic acid 0.31 - - 0.31 Phytic acid 0.005 0.005 - - Glucose 0.51 0.51 0.51 - Evaluation Stability Good Good Very poor Very poor Less oily appearance on skin 4.6 4.3 1.8 1.6 Less shine on skin 4.5 4.2 1.9 1.6

[0406] [Tables2] Phase Ingredients Ex. comp. 3 Ex. comp. 4 Ex. comp. 5 Ex. comp. 6 Oily Phase Corn Oil 84.75 84.75 84.75 84.75 Polyglycerol Polyricinoleate 5.08 5.08 5.08 5.08 Aqueous Phase Water Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Chitosan 0.51 0.51 0.51 0.51 Lactic Acid 0.31 0.31 0.31 0.31 Sodium Tripolyphosphate - 0.06 - - Sodium Trimetaphosphate - - 0.002 0.042 Glucose 0.51 0.51 0.51 0.51 Evaluation Stability Very poor Poor Poor Poor Less oily appearance on the skin 2.5 3.1 3.1 3.2 Less shine on the skin 2.5 3.1 3.1 3.1

[0407] As can be seen from the results shown in the tables above, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2, which comprise dispersed biopolymer complexes including a combination of (a) chitosan or sodium hyaluronate biopolymer, (b) an acid having four or more phytic acid groups, and (c) a lipophobic agent, were able to exhibit a very stable dispersion form even when they included a high concentration of (a) the biopolymer. Furthermore, these compositions were able to provide the skin with a less oily feel and a less shiny appearance.

[0408] Furthermore, although the result is not shown in the tables, the composition comprising xerogel particles according to Example 1 also exhibited good stability.

[0409] In contrast, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 3, which did not include any of the ingredients (a) to (c), caused a greasy feeling and a shiny appearance on the skin. Furthermore, these compositions exhibited very poor stability. Similarly, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 4 to 6, which include an acid having three or fewer acid groups instead of the acid (b) of the present invention, exhibited poor stability. Moreover, they failed to provide the skin with an improved greasy feel or a less shiny appearance.

[0410] Consequently, it can be concluded that the composition according to the present invention is very well suited to various applications, such as cosmetic, pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications.

Claims

Demands

1. Dispersion composition comprising a continuous oil phase and a plurality of biopolymer complexes dispersed in the oil phase, wherein the biopolymer complex comprises: (a) at least one biopolymer; (b) at least one acid having four or more acid groups; and (c) at least one lipophobe.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) biopolymer is selected from amino acids, cationic polysaccharides and anionic polysaccharides.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) biopolymer is selected from polylysine, collagen, gelatin, chitosan, xanthan gum and hyaluronic acid and their salts, and combinations thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) acid having four or more acid groups is selected from phosphoric acids and carboxylic acids, preferably phosphoric acids.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein (b) acid having four or more acid groups is selected from inositol pentakisphosphate, phytic acid, and one of their combinations.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (c) lipophobe is selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, lower C2-C4 polyols, sugar alcohols, inorganic salts, and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (c) lipophobe is selected from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, inorganic salts, and combinations thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the (a) biopolymer is present in an amount from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.075% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to claim 8, wherein (b) the acid having four or more acid groups is present in an amount from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.002% to 0.1% by weight. 51 weight, and more preferably from 0.003% to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the (c) lipophobe is present in an amount from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.